From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2519
Date: Monday, March 14, 2005 7:13 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Couple Questions- Coolant System & Idle
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>

2. transmission ------ any d's in NM?
From: "rodrael1" <rodrael1_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: April 30 show in Floridia..
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>

4. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

5. Re: Getting Ready to Buy
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

6. re: Getting Ready to Buy
From: " Toscano" <toscano2_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

7. Colorado Delorean Club
From: "Daniel Haney" <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

8. Re: The FV
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Troubleshooting HVAC vaccumn controls
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

10. Re: Couple Questions- Coolant System & Idle
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Front Coil Spring Removal (Cutting Out Old Springs)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Re: Couple Questions- Coolant System & Idle
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com

14. Door adjustment
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com

15. Re: color of the rims
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

16. Delorean Seats Offered On DMCNews
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

17. Re: color of the rims
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: Removing old fuel hoses?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. Re: Door adjustment
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Re: Turbo PRV.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

21. Re: Deans List 2005
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

22. RE: The FV
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

23. Early door lock removal
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

24. RE: Johnny Carson Delorean For Sale
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>

25. Re: Couple Questions- Coolant System & Idle
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 02:46:35 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Couple Questions- Coolant System & Idle



Josh, you stated:

2.) When I start my car, I have ignition and startup with no 
problems but during oh, the first five minutes that the engine is 
running the engine idles somewhat oddly, increasing and decreasing 
in a what I would call a cycling manner. It is somewhat hard to 
describe but after this about five minute period the car will idle 
perfect no problem.

If I'm not mistaken, you live in the northeast, meaning cold winter 
conditions right now.  As far as I can tell and from the people I 
have asked about this very topic, that is a normal operating 
condition during intial engine warm up in a cold climate.

Sandor
# 3002









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 02:31:01 -0000
From: "rodrael1" <rodrael1_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: transmission ------ any d's in NM?



Robert - 6585.. 

thanks for your very valuable info..   that is all I needed.   I am 
not immediately going to do the mazda turbo, since my PRV only has 
7500 miles on it and very fast accel and decent power, just 
something to start thinking about.

ANY DELOREAN OWNERS IN NEW MEXICO OUT THERE??

RODNEY
3300
RIO RANCHO, NM








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 03:57:38 -0000
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: April 30 show in Floridia..



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
Hi Marc
You can choose be judged, or display only. Our judging system gives 
multiple first place awards. Any car scoring 95 points or higher gets 
a Platinum Award. Then there is one Gold (2nd) and one Silver (3rd)  
in each class. Also award for best DeLorean, presenetd by Rob and 
Debbie Grady. 
Our philospohy is that the cars are meant to be driven, so deductions 
are not made for evidence the car is being used and enjoyed! I think 
a 1000+ mile trip definitely falls into that catagory! The outline of 
the judging system is on our website, but we are all there to have 
fun so we try and eliminate the pressure.
There will be a hose and dedicated car wash area at the hotel for the 
entire weekend.
The concours fee is $50. The dinner/fund raiser that evening is $100 
per person, but the menu and entertainment are well worth it. Trust 
me on this! There will also be a silent auction for charity (Make-A-
Wish)that evening with some great car related goodies.
The on-line registration page should (hopefully...) be up and running 
this week, or you can register by e-mailing me directly at 
cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net
Please let me know if you need help with anything, 
directions/reservations/information/etc, or anything else I can do.
See you in April!
Jeff Ippoliti
#20022
www.celebrationexoticcars.com


> Thanks for the info Jeff.
> 
> The cost of the show is $50, what is the cost of the
> "black tie optional" dinner?
> 
> Oh, and can I participate and choose NOT to be judged?
>  (Will still dontate the $50) If I drive the DMC
> there, I doubt I will be in any contition to make any
> significant effort to prep the car for competiton
> after a 1050 mile drive.
> 
> 
> --- jeff512tr <cingular512_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > 
> > Hello!
> > My name is Jeff Ippoliti, I am the event chairman
> > for this show and 
> <SNIP>








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 04:04:28 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.



This is a nice bit of information and I would look more into this, but
what I lack is the time to find one of these engines and redo
everything to install it, it's just a lot to do on such little time.
I'm sure there aren't many of Bob's turbos out there for sale, so what
other brands have other's used, how bout the intake manifold
parts-custom make
I suppose right? -----Dani B. #5003



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> I am fitting a Renault 25 turbo engine to my DeLorean. Although on
the 
> face of it it's quite dissimilar, with the use of an aftermarket 
> distributorless ECU, the whole engine can be rebuilt identical to a 
> DeLorean's (sump, crank case, timing cover, water pump, AC etc),
the 
> only difference will be the top of the engine with a much smaller
intake 
> manifold, single large throttle body sitting flat on the top centre,
and 
> a dirty great Garrett T3 at the back.
> 
> The other day I was talking to an old-timer at our Renault
supplier. He 
> went all misty eyed at the thought of a 25 turbo saying that "we
never 
> managed to get it to top out. We ran out of road at 148 and it was
still 
> pulling...".
> 
> On the inside, the Z7U (25 turbo ) engine is quite different, with 
> forged pistons, sodium cooled valves, an even fire crank and 2458cc,
but 
> externally it's still a PRV. You can basically build it however you
like.
> 
> Martin
> 
> stainlessilusion wrote:
> 
> >
> >Okay so now that the talk of turbos has been thrown around the list
> >for a while-I'm pretty interested. Can anyone recommend a what
brand
> >turbos are the best for the PRV, any model numbers-brands, what
> >additional parts are needed/recommended, etc. If anyone could give
me
> >any information at all I'd appreciate it (on or off list). I
already
> >know I should change my pistons and the like, but I don't know
> >EVERYTHING there is to know about turbos-thats where I hope some
help
> >from you guys comes in. Thanks guys----Dani B. #5003
> >
> >
> >  
> >








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 03:12:33 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Getting Ready to Buy


Are you bonded and insured?  What happens if the car is 
damaged, stolen or destroyed?  Can you offer enclosed
trailers and secure parking?  There is a lot more to delivering
a car than moving it from one place to another. 

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from mike clemens <rmclemns_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> TOO, TOO, TOOOOOOOOO, BAD, I can pickup and deliver, 
> with phone calls to verify condition, for a whole lot 
> less than that. I am a Delo owner and I am sick and 
> tired of JOE SHIT THE RAG MAN ripping everybody off. 
> Yea, gas is $2.00+ a gallon, but $775 to deliver a 
> car, com'on, let's treat each other with a little 
> respect. If I am totally off the wall for the price, 
> call me at cell (901) 494-4338 and I will give you an 
> honest quote for delivery or pickup. I am in Memphis 
> and I would love to help any, REPEAT, ANY DELO owner 
> in any way possible. 
> 
> Mike THE PIZZA SPECIAL 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 21:37:52 -0800
From: " Toscano" <toscano2_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: re: Getting Ready to Buy


Would the person who started this thread please contact me off-list? Thanks.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 21:08:08 -0700
From: "Daniel Haney" <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Colorado Delorean Club


Brandon wrote:

"Hey Dan

My car is currently down in the Springs.  I live in Denver but my dad  and I
are working on the car in his garage.  He's in the Old Farm area off Austin
Bluffs.  Matt is also up in Denver with me as well. I'd definitely like to
help out with a Rockies Club."



I've had communication with Dick Ryan and he too is interested in a Rocky
Mountain Delorean Club.
This is a call out to anyone else who is interested to contact me off line.
No you would not have to live in Colorado to participate. Yes we would
welcome "future" owners. If anyone wants to help or join please feel free to
contact me off list at drhaney(at)peoplepc.com.

I am also calling out to other DMC clubs to contact me in order to provide
organizational tips and help.

Thanks and happy motoring,

Dan Haney
vin 03254
Family owned & Cherished since 1985








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 04:12:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: The FV



You need to find out if in fact the FV is still running as the engine
warms up or it is shutting down. It should make noise during warm-up,
even though it is in a fixed duty cycle. It is normal for the engine
to hunt and surge during warm-up a little but should be smoother once
the Lambda goes into closed-loop. There is a ground wire on the front
right side of the intake manifold that goes to a plug. Make sure it is
clean and tight. Make sure the contacts on the FV and the plug are
clean and making good contact. Pull the plug off the Lambda computer
and take it apart. You will see numbers on the plastic. Make sure you
have good, solid, low resistance grounds on #5 and #16. Also the case
has to be grounded. You could also have a problem with the power to
the Lambda. Check the relays that power it and the FV. The FV receives
power when the engine is running, the Lambda computer provides the
ground. When you hear the FV stop push on the WOT switch. If you hear
the Lambda now you may have a bad ground on pin #5.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Guys I just had a quick question about the frequency valve if anyone
> can help me out. My engine idles fine when I hear the FV running, it
> is the  distinct sound you can tell its running. Then it suddenly
> cycles off and my engine idles a bit worse and starts to idle up and
> down for a little while until the FV starts back up again. Problems
> with the wiring or is this normal? Thanks for past and future help!!
> -----Dani B. #5003








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 06:38:46 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting HVAC vaccumn controls



It sounds like the little rubber 'nubs' on the rubber mode switch
diaphragm are probably broken off. This causes the plastic mode switch
disc to get out of sync with the diaphragm (the mode switch twists,
but the diaphragm doesn't causing vacuum to be sent to the wrong flaps
at the wrong time. Solution - order a mode switch rebuild kit from one
of the vendors which includes a new diaphragm.









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 04:18:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Couple Questions- Coolant System & Idle



It will hunt more during idle at warm-up while the Lambda is in fixed
mode. Once it warms up and goes into closed-loop it usually gets a lot
smoother. Vacuum leaks seem to make it idle worse. To bleed the
cooling system you really need a coolant presssure tester. Make sure
the header bottle is at least 1/2 full and pressurize to around 10
psi. Loosen the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing and let the
air out. Recheck the level in the header bottle and now CAREFULLY
loosen the small hose on the top right side of the radiator. Let the
air out. Recheck the level in the header bottle. If you keep getting
air in your system you have coolant leaks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc3989" <dmc3989_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey Guys here's another couple questions I've came up with that im 
> sure you'll have an answer to:
> 1.) I would like to bleed the air out of the coolant system but have 
> been unable to figure out how to do so. If anyone has any insight it 
> would be much appreciated.
> 2.) When I start my car, I have ignition and startup with no 
> problems but during oh, the first five minutes that the engine is 
> running the engine idles somewhat oddly, increasing and decreasing 
> in a what I would call a cycling manner. It is somewhat hard to 
> describe but after this about five minute period the car will idle 
> perfect no problem. I am wondering what may be causing this 
> situation (taking a stab in the dark im thinking maybe a sensor 
> issue) and maybe some of you have had the same experience. 
> 
> If anyone has any input, as always It would be much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> Josh
> VIN 3989








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 04:30:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.



I do not claim to be an "expert" on turbos. My main point in saying
there should be some kind of pressure release valve is that if a boost
control should get stuck or a wastegate not move right you could
overboost the engine. Having some kind of valve seems to me to be
insurance against something going wrong. Single point type of failure
kind of thing. With some of the Island turbo cars blowing pressure out
the crankcase either some of them have the boost set too high or there
is some kind of transient condition that is allowing the engines to be
overboosted. We can argue over exactly what kind of valve to use and
where to put it but IMHO adding a relief valve won't do any harm and
can protect the engine from an overboost condition. BTW the poppet
valves (decel valves) allow air to pass the throttle plates under high
vacuum conditions (higher than idle). Refer to D:09:01 for a more
complete explanation. Maybe for the turbo installation they need to be
modified? They aren't needed on an automatic, they are mainly for a
5-speed so additional air can go through the motor to prevent
backfires in the exhaust.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> David Teitelbaum wrote:
> 
> >
> >I have to admit I never actually measured this. It could be that it
> >isn't that big a problem on a Delorean since the turbos are rather
> >small and would respond quickly. It is still possible though. There
> >are decel poppet valves on the throttle plates that allow air to pass
> >even with the throttle plates closed. 
> >
> I haven't looked lately but I thought these were safety valves that 
> operated in the opposite direction to allow the engine to backfire 
> without destroying the throttles. On the Renault engines, where the 
> brass bypass screws are used, the throttles don't have these valves.
> 
> >In any case a blow-off valve
> >(recirc or not) could only be a further safety item especially if
> >something happened to the boost control or wastegate. 
> >
> Er, no, because they only do anything when the throttles are closed and 
> there's a vacuum in the intake manifold. On the Island and BAE kits,
the 
> whole turbo is in a vacuum so a dump valve will do precisely nothing 
> except maybe give a big vacuum leak.
> 
> > I do
> >not like the recirculating type, they can increase the temperature of
> >the incoming air charge, better to just dump it. I think the recirc is
> >used because it is quieter. 
> >
> Possibly, but on any air-mass metered engine they are a must otherwise 
> when you throttle back and the dump valve goes, it'll meter a load of 
> air that's not actually going into the engine - consequence, soak the 
> bores in fuel. On the legend engine, where the (effective) air mass 
> meter is downstream of the turbo, the dump valve would have to be
before 
> the sensor plate, for exactly this reason. The ideal place for the 
> turbos to be on the stock DeLorean engine would be between the sensor 
> plate and the throttles. but this is hardly practical!
> 
> Martin








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 07:35:57 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Front Coil Spring Removal (Cutting Out Old Springs)



You can even slice through them using nothing more than a cutoff wheel
in a Dremel tool. Cuts like a knife through butter. That's how I
shortened mine while still in the car (compressed externally, held
captive by the shock absorber if necessary...).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> Yesterday, I watched a friend do this job in about 5 minutes using an 
> angle grinder on the old spring, while still held captive so it
couldn't 
> fly off anywhere. With a muffled "thung!" it just fell out. The new
ones 
> will be easier to put in because they're shorter.
> 
> Martin
> 









________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 07:37:35 -0000
From: tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com
Subject: Re: Couple Questions- Coolant System & Idle



Josh - In regards to the question on bleeding air from the cooling 
system, I would recommend getting one of our self-bleeder kits, with 
our exclusive radiator air bleeder feature (K1012DP).  The air will 
literally be automatically eliminated from your cooling system, now 
and whenever you perform necessary maintenance in the future.  It 
will save you lots of time over the long haul, and will prevent air 
accumulation caused by minor leaks and other problems.  Naturally, 
you should repair or correct any problems with the cooling system in 
order to maintain proper cooling system function.

In terms of the cold idle question - The behavior that you describe 
is fairly typical to one degree or another in most DeLoreans.  
People have been able to tune some of it out, and others have 
various modifications and hardware tweaks to eliminate it.  Don't 
worry though - it is normal behavior for a DeLorean.  My 
car, "Winged1" lopes for about 30 seconds, and then settles in to a 
smooth idle.  Others take several minutes.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmc3989" <dmc3989_at_dml_y...> wrote:

> 1.) I would like to bleed the air out of the coolant system but 
have been unable to figure out how to do so. If anyone has any 
insight it would be much appreciated.
> 2.) When I start my car, I have ignition and startup with no 
> problems but during oh, the first five minutes that the engine is 
> running the engine idles somewhat oddly, increasing and decreasing 
> in a what I would call a cycling manner. It is somewhat hard to 
> describe but after this about five minute period the car will idle 
> perfect no problem. 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:19:54 -0000
From: nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com
Subject: Door adjustment



Hi all,

The back hinge on the drivers side door has quite a few shims under 
it. In turn the door when closed is a lot higher than the roof at 
this point. Is there any reason that this would have been done? and 
is it just a matter of loosening off the hinge and sliding them out? 
Or do i need to realise the torsion bar? 



Cheers Nick - 10927 sydney
 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:18:14 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: color of the rims



I wouldn't paint them because they'll be chipped in no time.  Find
someone in your area who can powdercoat them instead, and it will be a
much more lasting finish.  Just make sure the person knows that the
DeLorean rims need to be pre-baked for a long time to avoid out-gassing.  

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Peter Brickwede" <Bricki_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> Hi everybody,
> 
> I just started to refurbisch the rims of my DL. Does anybody of you
know the "original" color code of the silver color? Something like
"brillant silver" won't help cause the guy who will paint my rims has
about twelve different "brillant silver" (from BMW, Mercedes etc).
> 
> I got a hint from another owner that RAL 9006 will match best.
> 
> Any comments?
> 
> Peter
> VIN 3834








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 13:42:26 -0000
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Delorean Seats Offered On DMCNews


Hi all

I have been talking to this guy through email and he is blanking me, I had asked if I could see the seats maybe at his house or even his place of work, but for some reason he is now not replying to my email.

He said that someone from Canada hd offered him "loads" for the seats but I think he is a con-man.

BE WARNED...........

Alistair McCann
Delorean Owners Of Ireland
VIN# PILOT25

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 13:47:51 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: color of the rims



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Peter Brickwede" <Bricki_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> Hi everybody,
> 
> I just started to refurbisch the rims of my DL. Does anybody of you know the 
"original" color code of the silver color? Something like "brillant silver" won't 
help cause the guy who will paint my rims has about twelve different "brillant 
silver" (from BMW, Mercedes etc).
> 
> I got a hint from another owner that RAL 9006 will match best.
> 
> Any comments?
> 
> Peter
> VIN 3834
Hey Peter the rims are powdercoated originally and i have powdercoated 
mine back with a powder color called argent silver and then clear powdered 
overtop of them .. they have held up and are looking great still after like five or 
six years...Dave..vin..15275.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 08:36:48 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Removing old fuel hoses?


Greg, I wouldn't brake the connection loose. Just slit the hose back with a
razor blade and slip the new hoses over and the clamp.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: gzapf [mailto:x86Daddy_at_dml_myrealbox.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 2:45 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Removing old fuel hoses?





> My fuel hoses going from the fuel pump and boot to the metal lines are
> in bad shape, and I'm ready to replace them.  However, the fittings
> are extremely tight (no hose clamps in original setup).  What is the
> recommended method to detach the old, disintegrating hoses so I can
> put on the new ones?  Is it simply a matter of pulling and twisting?
> 
> At the banjo fitting at the top of the pump, the banjo is simply
> plugged into the hose.  I'm guessing sufficient twisting and turning
> will finally disconnect this.  However, each of the other connections
> involves a couple of hex, wrenchable fittings, but I want to exercise
> caution with where these connect to the metal lines.  And it still
> appears that the hose ends at the first nut, so I still have to
> disconnect it.
> 
> I apologize in advance for the extremely basic question.  :-)
> 
> --Greg
> #2894





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 15:07:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door adjustment



When the car was assembled the doors are fit to the body and then all
the other panels are fit to line up with the doors. Generally it is
unwise to mess with the hinges. If you know that the doors were ever
removed from the car it is possible they were not reinstalled
correctly in which case you could try adjusting the doors. The safest
method of adjusting the doors is to remove the torsion bar. I would do
it for 2 reasons. One, the obvious, all that power in there might get
away from you. The other less obvious reason is you could scratch or
otherwise damage the torsion bar resulting in it's breakage. I would
first try some foam padding under the Tee roof to raise it. You can
also loosen the screws along the back, top edge and raise the Tee roof
a little. They are there, hidden under the rubber seal. In general
trying to fit panels involves a lot of compromise. You may never get
it perfect, sometimes you kind of "split the difference" and make it
as close as you can. Adjusting one panel usually involves adjusting
another  and then another and so on. You have to start somewhere, on
Deloreans we start with the doors. BTW is is not easy adjusting the
doors. Once you loosen the hinges you mess with ALL of the ways it
could move and you may not get it back as good as it was. The doors
are heavy and hard to handle. When it is closed how does it line up
with the lower sill? If it is even front-to-back along the lower edge
when closed you probably shouldn't touch the shims under the rear
hinge. If you do adjust the hinges you will also have to readjust the
locking pins. Lowering the rear hinge will raise the front part of the
door a little, how does it line up along the windshield and with the
front fender? Look at the fit of all the panels before you touch
anything and think about how what you want to change will affect
everything.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, nicholden_at_dml_y... wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> The back hinge on the drivers side door has quite a few shims under 
> it. In turn the door when closed is a lot higher than the roof at 
> this point. Is there any reason that this would have been done? and 
> is it just a matter of loosening off the hinge and sliding them out? 
> Or do i need to realise the torsion bar? 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers Nick - 10927 sydney








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 15:46:06 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo PRV.



Any word on if perhaps the Z7X & Z7W series of engines might possibly 
contain the same components as the Z7U?

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> I am fitting a Renault 25 turbo engine to my DeLorean. Although on 
the 
> face of it it's quite dissimilar, with the use of an aftermarket 
> distributorless ECU, the whole engine can be rebuilt identical to a 
> DeLorean's (sump, crank case, timing cover, water pump, AC etc), 
the 
> only difference will be the top of the engine with a much smaller 
intake 
> manifold, single large throttle body sitting flat on the top 
centre, and 
> a dirty great Garrett T3 at the back.
> 
> The other day I was talking to an old-timer at our Renault 
supplier. He 
> went all misty eyed at the thought of a 25 turbo saying that "we 
never 
> managed to get it to top out. We ran out of road at 148 and it was 
still 
> pulling...".
> 
> On the inside, the Z7U (25 turbo ) engine is quite different, with 
> forged pistons, sodium cooled valves, an even fire crank and 
2458cc, but 
> externally it's still a PRV. You can basically build it however you 
like.
> 
> Martin
> 
> stainlessilusion wrote:
> 
> >
> >Okay so now that the talk of turbos has been thrown around the list
> >for a while-I'm pretty interested. Can anyone recommend a what 
brand
> >turbos are the best for the PRV, any model numbers-brands, what
> >additional parts are needed/recommended, etc. If anyone could give 
me
> >any information at all I'd appreciate it (on or off list). I 
already
> >know I should change my pistons and the like, but I don't know
> >EVERYTHING there is to know about turbos-thats where I hope some 
help
> >from you guys comes in. Thanks guys----Dani B. #5003
> >
> >
> >  
> >








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 16:08:15 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Deans List 2005



Well DUH! Dean! A car's value depends upon rarety. How many of these 
Ferraris & Hemi 'Cuda Convertibles were manufactured, versus how many 
DeLoreans were built? Last time I checked, it was like 10 of 
these 'Cudas, versus almost 10,000 DeLoreans.

Besides, I'm happy to know that my car will never be worth $100K. 
That means that it'll remain affordable for the next generation to 
take charge and drive.

Kinda makes me wonder. Is Dean, and other people who attend these 
auctions into the car hobby because they dig on vehicles and enjoy 
them? Or is it all about the almighty dollar? Investing in cars is 
one of the stupidest things you can do with your money. Spending cash 
on a car, is really investing in yourself, to get a return on 
happiness from your work/passion.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "R / R" <chach4_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> Today's Chicago Tribune (3/13/2005) had the 2005 Dean Kruse's "Deans
> List" of collectible cars and today's values.
> 
> Top spot was the 1959-61 Ferrari Test Rossa Race Car at $4-6
> Million..yes that's 6 ZEROS!!!!!! followed by the 1970 CUDA 
Convertible
> at $1.5-2 Million .....all the way to a 1960 Volkswagen 
Vanagon "Love
> Bus"at a mere $3,500 - $15,000 ...chump change.
> 
> Also mentioned was the following :
> 
> Noted auctioneer Dean Kruse also had a few things to say about
> contemporary cars. " The best new cars to collect will be the high
> performance Mustangs, the Ford GT, and the new Pontiac Solstice." he
> said. And the cars to avoid? "Bricklins and Deloreans are holding 
their
> values because both have large owner clubs, but neither car will 
ever be
> worth $100,000."
> 
> I guess for Dean............ $100K is chump change??????
> 
> Rick 15990








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 11:23:05 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: The FV


Josh, Until the 02 sensor heats up from the exhaust and starts sending a
voltage to the ECU, the car is running on a fixed air to fuel mixture ratio.
Then when the 02 sensor / engine heats up to it's normal operating temp. is
the time to adjust the mixture screw to correct the seeking.
The air to fuel mixture is either rich or to lean and the adjustment needs
to be done to bring it back into sink. I would suggest you do this after you
have installed a new 02 sensor and adjust this is when the car is hot. If
any questions your welcome to call 12/7.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: stainlessilusion [mailto:5n-_at_dml_gmx.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 3:12 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] The FV





Guys I just had a quick question about the frequency valve if anyone
can help me out. My engine idles fine when I hear the FV running, it
is the  distinct sound you can tell its running. Then it suddenly
cycles off and my engine idles a bit worse and starts to idle up and
down for a little while until the FV starts back up again. Problems
with the wiring or is this normal? Thanks for past and future help!!
-----Dani B. #5003





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 09:24:15 -0800
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Early door lock removal


Could someone please enlighten me as to how the door locks are removed. 
I know that the plastic retainer will be destroyed in the process which 
is fine since the lock is broken and will be replaced with a one key 
set.

Phil Priestley
Alessandros Restaurant
http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 12:30:11 -0500
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>
Subject: RE: Johnny Carson Delorean For Sale


I have seen the car at Cleveland D show as well as at the museum it used to
live in.  I am in fact in Canton right now for a funeral and might take a
look at the showroom.  It is in the basement of the Canton McKinley Grand
hotel, and while it sounds kinda goofy is in fact a nice place to show off
these cars.  

Jack Stiefel
Tampa, Fl

-----Original Message-----
From: erjunebug [mailto:erjunebug_at_dml_hotmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 10:26 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Johnny Carson Delorean For Sale




I understand the famous Johnny Carson Delorean will soon be offered 
for sale thru Motorcar Portfolio in Canton, Ohio. They can be 
contacted thru their site at www.motorcarportfolio.com.  It should be 
quite a collectable since the recent demise of Mr. Carson.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 17:23:00 -0000
From: "endotex23" <endotex23_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Couple Questions- Coolant System & Idle



As Toby and David pointed out hunting of the idle is common but that
doesn't mean it should happen. It's "typical" only in the respect most
people end up accepting it. There are several different causes for the
problem, plus there are interactions between different systems that
can add to the frustration of solving it. This defeats many owners so
they just end up tolerating it for the few minutes it occurs. I found
it not only embarressing but a gauntlet thrown down by the car I just
had to pick up. In doing so I learned the multitude of reasons why it
happens. To add to the problem the service manual omits important
procedures published elsewhere for setting up the Bosch system used to
maintain idle.

There are distinct approaches for resolving the problem depending on
whether it occurs cold verus hot and with a little patience and a
methodical approach one can identify which of the issues is/are at
fault. It's not difficult but you need to understand the basic causes
and how each of the systems involved can interact to make the problem
tricky to figure out. Assuming you have no vacuum leaks and the engine
is in otherwise good condition the best way to solve this problem is
to start from scratch and set everything up independently, with each
system isolated and operating in open loop. The procedure is beyond
the scope of a single post but if you feel confident working on the
car contact me off list and I'll expand on it.

One thing you won't get rid of (without a mod) is the very minor idle
instability that occurs after the lambda loop becomes active. It's
caused by hysterisis in the fuel system as the FV corrects for mixture
deviations. Since the mixture is hydraulically controlled there will
always be a slight lag between the FV and injector pressure. There is
a silver lining in that cloud though: it confirm's your lambda loop is
alive. It verifys at a glance everything from the O2S to the FV is
operating.








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------