From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2548
Date: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 1:49 AM


There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. car mysteriously dies UPDATE
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. AC unit/clock on radio/buzzing sound
From: "Christian_Witt" <christian_witt_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: AC unit/clock on radio/buzzing sound
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

4. Re: car mysteriously dies UPDATE
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

5. Angle Drive Problems
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>

6. Re: Angle Drive Problems
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

7. Re: AC unit/clock on radio/buzzing sound
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Re: Headlight switches
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. A Q for multiple Delorean owners
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. beach, bikinis, beer weekend in Canada
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

11. Replacing Door/Roof Seals
From: "Michael Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

13. Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

14. Re: DMC (Florida)
From: ronaldcas_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

16. Re: A Q for multiple Delorean owners
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

17. Re: Re: Valley of death - 3-in-one
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

18. On a lighter note - my hover conversion WORKS!
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

19. Re: Angle Drive Problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Help me!!!!!!!
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 23:35:35 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: car mysteriously dies UPDATE


Group,

I may have found the problem but I'm not convinced this could cause my 
situation.  I went back to check the ignition ECU connection and found on the idle 
speed ECU, that the second plug (the right one when looking down on it) was in 
sideways and only halfway in the module.  I started the car with it plugged in 
and sure enough the car dies immediately when I remove the plug.  

BUT, would this give me a no-spark situation when the plug is disconnected?  
I didn't have another person around to test that theory.  I greased the plugs 
up, cleaned them, and put them in tightly.  Then I drove around for about an 
hour and didn't have a single problem.  

Does this make sense or did I just get lucky that the car didn't die?

At any rate, today I ordered a new inertia switch (i know that's not the 
problem but mine was cracked) as well as a new RPM relay and impulse coil which I 
will install anyway to be on the safe side.  I didn't actually remove the 
ignition ECU or take off the connector because it looked to be a pain in the ass 
with that lock ring on the plug.  If the idle ECU wasn't the problem, then I 
will pull the ig ECU and check it out anyway.  

one more thing - I checked resistance on the ignition resistors and got 
something like 1.87 ohms on one and .12 ohms on the other.  the manual says .5 is 
normal. Should I be concerned?

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 04:40:28 -0000
From: "Christian_Witt" <christian_witt_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: AC unit/clock on radio/buzzing sound



Hey all -

Three random problems I can't seem to track down answers for on 
Google!  Has anybody heard of these problems, or can anyone guess what 
they are caused by?

1.)  Air conditioning/heater only blows air onto the floor/feet, 
regardless of what setting its on.  No defrost, no vents, just blows 
air onto the floor/feet.

2.)  The car's dash (near the radio/AC unit) has constant squelching-
type buzz (bzzzzzzzzzz) to it.  It occurs even when the radio is off.  
It's almost a hum, but louder. Definitely sounds electric in nature...

3.) I can't program the clock on the radio to save my life.  Anyone 
have idiot instructions? It's the stock radio/cassette...  

Thx in advance, u all rock...








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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 06:33:21 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: AC unit/clock on radio/buzzing sound



Christian - How's this for a concept?  Perhaps the two symptoms are 
related?  The air distribution doors and flaps use vacuum for 
movement, supplied via the mode switch.  If the available vacumm is 
reduced, say from a vacuum leak, then the action of the doors will 
be reduced or stopped.  If the vacuum leak were in the form of a 
split rubber vacuum line, this can have a buzzing sound, not unlike 
the reed of a clarinet.  If the leak were in the mode switch 
diaphram, it could also make a sound, not unlike a "whoopy 
cushion".  I will let somebody else chime in on the clock setting 
procedure.  I haven't had a stock radio in my car since 1988.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Christian_Witt" 
<christian_witt_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 1.)  Air conditioning/heater only blows air onto the floor/feet, 
> regardless of what setting its on.  No defrost, no vents, just 
blows air onto the floor/feet.
> 
> 2.)  The car's dash (near the radio/AC unit) has constant 
squelching-type buzz (bzzzzzzzzzz) to it.  It occurs even when the 
radio is off.  It's almost a hum, but louder. Definitely sounds 
electric in nature...
> 
> 3.) I can't program the clock on the radio to save my life.  
Anyone have idiot instructions? It's the stock radio/cassette...  









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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 21:14:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: car mysteriously dies UPDATE


Andy,

It sound like you may have hit on the problem.  Still, it's a good idea
to replace the inertia sw and the RPM relay.  

The impulse coil is a job to replace and I would not attempt it if the
car seems to be running OK.  You will be pulling and replacing the
intake (time consuming but no big deal) and removing, disassembling and
reassembling the distributor (the disassembly requires some care and
the directions are not very clear and making not getting this right
means repeating the long process).  Also, I found out the hard way that
a new coil can also be defective.

gooooooooood luck.

Woody


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ 





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 06:29:13 -0500
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Angle Drive Problems


Hi gang,
My problems with the speedometer angle drive continue as I have now broken my second one without understanding the source of the problem.  I replaced my last one with another new one and everything was working fine until I had the car on interstate for about 30 minutes when the speedo needle dropped and inspection of the front wheel showed it had again broken off inside of the plastic cap over the front hub.  I believe several other members have had this problem and I'm hoping someone can give me some advice as I now try and install another angle drive without the same situation occurring.
At least I got it working for about an hour or so!
Thanks,
Mike
#3760 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 14:12:28 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Angle Drive Problems


Mike - Have you checked the rest of the speedometer system to 
make sure it is turning freely?  If you take the lower cable off
at the angle drive, you should be able to turn the inner cable 
freely with your fingertips - in either direction.  If you can't, 
you will need to figure out where the cables are binding - the 
lower cable, the lambda counter or the upper cable.  

If you find a binding cable, you can pull the inner cable out of 
the sleeve.  Examine it closely to make sure the cable isn't unwinding.  
There should also be no broken strands.  If you find either of these, 
replace the cable.  Otherwise, clean the cable with brake cleaner 
(both the inner cable and the sleeve), let them air dry well, and 
relubricate them with an appropriate lubricant.  I like graphite 
since it won't thicken up with cooler weather, but you can 
check with any autoparts store for a recommendation.  Reinstall
the cable and try spinning it again.  If it is still stiff, there is another 
component that is binding.  Keep going until you have gone through
all of the components in the system.  

As a final check, I like to unhook the lower cable at the lambda 
switch and see if the cable spins freely back to the angle drive.
You will need to remove the plastic cap first, of course.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> Hi gang, 
> My problems with the speedometer angle drive continue as I have now broken my 
> second one without understanding the source of the problem. I replaced my last 
> one with another new one and everything was working fine until I had the car on 
> interstate for about 30 minutes when the speedo needle dropped and inspection of 
> the front wheel showed it had again broken off inside of the plastic cap over 
> the front hub. I believe several other members have had this problem and I'm 
> hoping someone can give me some advice as I now try and install another angle 
> drive without the same situation occurring. 
> At least I got it working for about an hour or so! 
> Thanks, 
> Mike 
> #3760 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 13:44:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: AC unit/clock on radio/buzzing sound



You may need to replace or rebuild your mode switch. It would cause
the heater/A/C to not function properly and would also cause a hissing
noise. A vacuum hose could have also just come loose. If the mode
switch is stiff  to turn then it needs to be rebuilt anyway and while
you are at it you can check all the hoses. To set the clock there are
2 small holes on either side of front panel of the radio. You stick a
toothpick (or similar) in to set the clock. The one on the left is
hours and the one on the right is minutes. Don't push too hard. The
venders sell a new diaphram in a rebuild kit if you need it. Mostly
the mode switches just need to be taken apart, cleaned, lubed with
silicone, and reassembled. Next time search the archives, I don't
think Google is going to help you much with the technical. You can
also go to dmcnews.com for technical help.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Christian_Witt" <christian_witt_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey all -
> 
> Three random problems I can't seem to track down answers for on 
> Google!  Has anybody heard of these problems, or can anyone guess what 
> they are caused by?
> 
> 1.)  Air conditioning/heater only blows air onto the floor/feet, 
> regardless of what setting its on.  No defrost, no vents, just blows 
> air onto the floor/feet.
> 
> 2.)  The car's dash (near the radio/AC unit) has constant squelching-
> type buzz (bzzzzzzzzzz) to it.  It occurs even when the radio is off.  
> It's almost a hum, but louder. Definitely sounds electric in nature...
> 
> 3.) I can't program the clock on the radio to save my life.  Anyone 
> have idiot instructions? It's the stock radio/cassette...  
> 
> Thx in advance, u all rock...








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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 19:08:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Headlight switches


Well put Joe. I have owned two DeLoreans and have never needed a headlight switch in the past 6 years. As soon as the offer was made by DMC Texas I preordered two. We convert our regular bulbs to LEDs and upgrade our cars as soon as a new and better item becomes available. We will all need a new headlight switch if we keep our cars long enough. What is $40 compared to being left in the dark away from home? Buy a spare and keep it in the small area behind the drivers seat along with a spare fuel pump and belts. With luck having the spare will insure that you will never need it. Rod 10921

Joe OBrien <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:


> We need 134 more orders so pony up guys! I want my new headlight 
> switch! 

[moderator snip]





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 19:37:26 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: A Q for multiple Delorean owners



Hi, longtime lurker first time poster.  I think I first read this 
board in the mid 90s.  I finally bought one a few years ago!

So, for you guys that have owned more than 1 Delorean, have you 
noticed significant personality differences between your cars?  I've 
heard it said that due to some cars being problematic, that once they 
purchased a new one, they immediately put on twice the miles in a few 
months that they had put on the other one in years.

Also, who holds the record here for most Deloreans owned?








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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 16:12:01 -0500
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: beach, bikinis, beer weekend in Canada


DeLOREAN JUNE MEET ON THE SHORES OF LAKE HURON.

This sleepy village on the eastern shores of Lake Huron, becomes a "zoo" during the summer. Located about 40 miles north of London, Ontario, and about 60 miles from Port Huron, Michigan. There is everything you want for a holiday weekend - ice cold beer, main drag to cruise up and down, 10 - 15,000 bikinis, EVERY WEEKEND, close by is a national quality IRHA drag strip, burger and fries, pizza or steak and lobster, marina, golf, etc.You are guaranteed to have a great time. I have booked 7 rooms at the Colonial Hotel on the main drag. Cost is $89.00 per night, Canadian dollars (about $70.00 USA). This is an "older"and inexpensive place. As well, I have booked 10 rooms around the corner, at the famous Oakwood Inn, REALLY NICE!, _at_dml_ $169.00 per night Canadian dollars ( approx. $130.00 USA). These motels sell out every weekend during the summer. You must contact these places by April 15, latest, for guaranteed reservations, or they are gone. You cannot sleep on the beach! Have been just notified that the rooms are scarce, and very little is left in Grand Bend, Ontario for the nights of Friday, June 17, and Saturday June 18, 2005. The "hold" for the rooms, cannot be extended.

We will cruise on Saturday to Goderich, about 20 miles north, a unique village with great shopping.

Later on Saturday and Sunday, I'm trying to arrange a separate parking area on the Grand Bend beach for the show and shine portion. Anticipate an influx of 25,000 people on the weekends. I'm also trying to get security for the night parking.

Tell your buddies, book the rooms, bring sun tan lotion, and a beach blanket.

There is NO COST to join us for the weekend, other than a room and personal expenses.(may pass the hat for security cost)

---------------- and a limited number of freebies custom made, specially for this weekend event.

Hello Illinois, Ohio, Michigan, N.Y., Ontario, and ?????

www.grandbend.com 
www.colonial_at_dml_hay.net 
www.oakwoodinnresort.com 

Marv.
#17707
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 

  ----------

Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.7.3 - Release Date: 3/15/2005


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 16:22:59 -0500
From: "Michael Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Replacing Door/Roof Seals



Hey gang,

I am looking at replacing the weather seals that mount to the uppermost
part of the door and form the seal between the door and the T-panel.
These are held in with pop rivets.

Questions: 

How the heck do you get these pop rivets out? I was looking at them with
the drill, but the fear of nicking the torsion bar with a drill bit made
me hold of on this route . .  .

Once you get the rivets out and are ready to mount the new parts, do
people usually just screw these in, or are pop-rivets the way to go . .
.don't want to have to go through too much pain if I have to do this
again in the future.

Michael & 3472







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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 22:01:08 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals


Michael 

I've done this operation on my car several years ago.  It's not
as bad as it may look.  You can get a drill bit on the rivits, however it 
is a Very Good Idea to cover the torsion bars with some duct tape
or card board or something to prevent them from  becoming damaged.
You also want to take care not to push real hard on the rivit once you 
are close to drilling it out completely.  If you push too hard, you can
dimple the top surface of the door.

There will be bits of the rivit left inside the door.  There just isn't 
much you can do about it.  After enough cycles of the door the
little loose bits settle into some crevice somewhere and they 
don't rattle anymore.

Use some WD-40 to help get the old weatherstrip and retainer
out from behind the hinges.  You will want to move the retainer
aft until the front edge of the retainer is free of the front hinge.
Then carefully flex the retainer around the hinge and pull 
it free of the rear hinge.  You don't want to crease the retainer.

Next, fit the new weatherstripping to the retainer.  The cup 
in the new strip should face up.   It may require some trimming
to fit.  I used some 3M trim adhesive to glue the weatherstrip
to the retainer.  Don't forget to punch holes in the new
weatherstrip.  This makes reassembly much easier.  To
reinstall the retainer, reverse the process of taking it out.  
Don't forget the WD-40 on this step - you'd hate to tear that
new rubber.  I used stainless rivits to attach the retainer.  Make 
sure your rivit gun will fit - you may need one with a smaller head.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Michael Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> Hey gang, 
> 
> I am looking at replacing the weather seals that mount to the uppermost 
> part of the door and form the seal between the door and the T-panel. 
> These are held in with pop rivets. 
> 
> Questions: 
> 
> How the heck do you get these pop rivets out? I was looking at them with 
> the drill, but the fear of nicking the torsion bar with a drill bit made 
> me hold of on this route . . . 
> 
> Once you get the rivets out and are ready to mount the new parts, do 
> people usually just screw these in, or are pop-rivets the way to go . . 
> .don't want to have to go through too much pain if I have to do this 
> again in the future. 
> 
> Michael & 3472 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 14:17:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals


The NCDMC did this job with 2 of our cars a couple summers ago - along
with Don and Dan from DMC Garden Grove. We covered the tortion bars with
rags and used a dremel with a little cutting disc to take off the head of
the rivets. Once the heads were off, the weatherstripping could be removed
- which exposed the shafts of the rivets. These were again dremeled until
the inside ends fell out of the way to the inside of the door skin. Dan
brought some ground-down sheet metal screws to attach the new seals. In
another 20 years, I'll just need to unscrew the trim - not go through the
dremeling again.

http://www.ncdmc.org/images_meets/tech1/Dan%20replacing%20Christian's%20weather%20strip.JPG

-Christian


On Tue, 29 Mar 2005, Michael Babb wrote:

> Hey gang,
>
> I am looking at replacing the weather seals that mount to the uppermost
> part of the door and form the seal between the door and the T-panel.
> These are held in with pop rivets.
>
> Questions:
>
> How the heck do you get these pop rivets out? I was looking at them with
> the drill, but the fear of nicking the torsion bar with a drill bit made
> me hold of on this route . .  .
>
> Once you get the rivets out and are ready to mount the new parts, do
> people usually just screw these in, or are pop-rivets the way to go . .
> .don't want to have to go through too much pain if I have to do this
> again in the future.
>
> Michael & 3472





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 17:39:54 EST
From: ronaldcas_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DMC (Florida)


 
So how was the FL Open House?  Did anyone go?  I found out too  late.
 
Scott
Mount Dora FL
#10566


Message: 10
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 15:42:49 -0800 (PST)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMC (Florida)


Tremendously glad to hear THAT!

I had more than my  fair share from that Jag Shop

I will certainly look up Tony in the near  future!







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 22:19:38 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals



We've had Don Steger do this at our local tech sessions - rather than 
rivets, he uses very small short pan-head sheet metal screws with the 
tip ground off. Easier than rivets, and you can use them over again. 

If you are not sure that you have the right size call him - if they 
are the slightest bit too long you'll find out the hard way. 

At this point I'm personally very comfortable removing torsion bars 
and will do that as part of this process as well. Takes a lot of the 
worry out of it, and if you have the tools and helper on hand ads 
many 10 minutes to the process. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> Michael 
> 
> I've done this operation on my car several years ago.  It's not
> as bad as it may look.  You can get a drill bit on the rivits, 
however it 
> is a Very Good Idea to cover the torsion bars with some duct tape
> or card board or something to prevent them from  becoming damaged.
> You also want to take care not to push real hard on the rivit once 
you 
> are close to drilling it out completely.  If you push too hard, you 
can
> dimple the top surface of the door.
> 
-----
> --
> Mike
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message from "Michael Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_g...>: -
------------- 
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hey gang, 
> > 
> > I am looking at replacing the weather seals that mount to the 
uppermost 
> > part of the door and form the seal between the door and the T-
panel. 
> > These are held in with pop rivets. 
> > 
>
> > Once you get the rivets out and are ready to mount the new parts, 
do 
> > people usually just screw these in, or are pop-rivets the way to 
go . . 
> > .don't want to have to go through too much pain if I have to do 
this 









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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 22:43:43 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: A Q for multiple Delorean owners



Multiple Delorean owner may be a good description for my collection.

Not counting the Delorean vendors, I think I am probably at or near
the top of the most Deloreans owned list with somewhere about 20+.
Unfortunately, I do not have some of my records before 1990, so I
cannot confirm an exact number, however I do know I am at the top
of the list when using the DOD (Delorean Owners Directory) as the
reference.  As of the last issue of the DOD, I have 12 Deloreans
currently listed, but several have been sold and added since then.
Note some are salvage cars, but they may be brought back one day.

Commercial:  If you have not already registered your Delorean info
in the DOD, please visit the DMC News website and add your car info.

As for the other question:

Yes, I have noticed a lot of differences with my Deloreans purchases
throughout the years, but I rarely refer to them as personalities.

I run into the opposite problem more often than the problematic issue
in that I get a car refurbished "too good" and I do not want to drive
it once it is in that "too good" condition.  I talk myself into buying
another one for a daily driver, then that one gets to be "too good".

I guess if I lived in the southern US with better weather all year,
I would feel less guilty driving my D's in less than best weather.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> So, for you guys that have owned more than 1 Delorean, have you 
> noticed significant personality differences between your cars?  
> 
> Also, who holds the record here for most Deloreans owned?








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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 00:41:29 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Valley of death - 3-in-one


Hi

As not to create to many messages on the same topic I will answer to three 
posts in this one message.
First was Dave:

> Anything is better than letting it fill up with road dirt<SNIP>
> I'm not a big fan of filling in the holes, my thought is that when
> the filler ultimatly breaks down it will hold moisture in there even
> moreso.
****
The good thing about silicone is that it hardens by absorbing moisture from 
the surroundings. It is also pretty durable and stable for a long time. I 
don't think it will break down anytime soon. The one that I used is good for 
temperatures from -65 to +315 degrees C (-85 to 600 F). Then I painted it 
with high temp paint, so even if the silicone breaks down the paint should 
hold the moisture away. I think I'm safe

> The cover deflector plate is a great idea! Did you happen to take any
> pictures of that?
****
No, I did not take pictures of the plate. I fabricated the plate out of 1mm 
think sheet of aluminum. A lot of cutting and grinding and the plate fits in 
the valley covering the entire area. It's a weird shape but it fits 
perfectly. Even without the silicone it would sit at a correct angle to make 
any water run off to the back. You can see it in my pic. It's painted black.
-----------------------------------------
Next was David Teitelbaum
> I don't think it is that big a deal. If you replace the hoses and
> seals every 20 years or so you and don't leave the car outside and use
> premium anti-freeze and change it once in a while it will be fine.<SNIP>
****
Well, its not just antifreeze that causes the corrosion in the valley. I 
found a lot of dirt and water in there. Of course the antifreeze will speed 
up the process greatly but just water and dirt will do it too. Besides, you 
say that if I change the hoses and not leave the car outside.... then you 
should add "and don't drive it in the winter". But the thing is I love the 
car for what it is - A CAR. I drive it as much as I can because I love it so 
much. It was meant to be driven. I drive it in the rain, snow and I do leave 
it outside sometimes. I have an interesting short movie clip that shows how 
I enjoy driving it on snow. I will make it available when I find a place to 
upload it. Anyway, I drive the car and I want it to last as long as 
possible. That is why I filled up those holes and made a plate to cover the 
valley of death.
----------------------------------------
Next was Jeremiah
> That's pretty cool, Tom - nice job!
****
Thank you :) I'm proud of what I did.
I decided to go with silicone (I did think about JB weld) because it stays 
'soft'. I thought about thermal expansion and figured that silicone will be 
much better. I will allow the metal around it to 'work' with changing 
temperatures and not break off of the surface. Then I fabricated a plate 
just to make sure that nothing gets in there :).

That will be all for now....
The valley of death is no more for me :)

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...




> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
>>
>> Hi everyone
>>
>> While working on my engine (water pump rebuild) I decided to
> something about
>> the valley of death. Even though the engine has low miles and it
<SNIP> 






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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 01:06:00 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: On a lighter note - my hover conversion WORKS!


Hello all

I just uploaded a picture to the photos section of the new crappy Yahoo 
(it's ugly - the site I mean - and it keeps giving me a different error all 
the time). I've been working on my DeLorean recently - mainly the engine as 
you might know from the "valley of death" thread. At the same time I was 
working on another project and it WORKS. I finally invented something that 
works! Go to the photos section and look at hoverconversion.jpg. It's in the 
main directory.
Now I will be working on retracting/rotating wheels.

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...

PS. Sorry... I just couldn't resist :) 






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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 23:29:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive Problems



My theory is that plastic posts break off inside the speedometer head.
They have metal clips on them and they get attacted to the spinning
magnet in the speedometer where they jam it up and ruin the cable, the
angle drive, or the dust cover. Pull the speedo head out and take it
apart and make sure nothing is jamming the speedometer mechanism. It
is unusual to keep eating angle drives. Also if the support bracket is
missing or broken for the lower speedo cable get a new one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> Mike - Have you checked the rest of the speedometer system to 
> make sure it is turning freely?  If you take the lower cable off
> at the angle drive, you should be able to turn the inner cable 
> freely with your fingertips - in either direction.  If you can't, 
> you will need to figure out where the cables are binding - the 
> lower cable, the lambda counter or the upper cable.  
> 
> I








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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 23:23:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals



I would like to add that it is easy to protect the torsion bar. Get a
short piece of plastic pipe and slit it lengthwise. Use one of the
pieces over the bar with some duct tape. Be careful when you go
through the rivets, if the drill goes in too deep it WILL dimple the
door skin. Use a depth stop.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> Michael 
> 
> I've done this operation on my car several years ago.  It's not
> as bad as it may look.  You can get a drill bit on the rivits,
however it 
> is a Very Good Idea to cover the torsion bars with some duct tape
> or card board or something to prevent them from  becoming damaged.
> You also want to take care not to push real hard on the rivit once you 
> are close to drilling it out completely.  If you push too hard, you can
> dimple the top surface of the door.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 01:23:39 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Help me!!!!!!!



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Hey Danny I still have the original fuel dist but have just put all new injectors in 
the car and it still backfires in the exhaust when u let off  the gas.. but only when the 
car is hot... Alot of people said cause its got a straight exhaust system on it now.. 
but John Hervey doesnt seem to think its right.. the car runs and idles great.. but it 
does vibrate slightly at idle.. nothing major though.. any more suggestions?? Could 
the fuel dist be partially not working?? I dont know..Thanks..DAve..ps.. every other 
thing on the engine is new.. wires, cap rotor.. sensors,, ummm.. and just about 
everything thing else.. Email back..Dave..
> 
> Just went through the same thing as you a few months ago. Best I can
> say is check out your timing, valve timing and lash, vac leaks, and
> definitely electrical-make sure your block is grounded, your wires to
> the coil and resister are right. ALSO make sure the connectors on the
> bulkhead are good-they need to be clean and tight, if they're loose
> they won't work-this was my problem. BE SURE to check that the pins
> are present in the connectors as well-when these connectors are old
> and you unplug/plug in the connector it sometimes will force a pin out
> and into the space behind the panel-I'm talking about all the colored
> connectors on the engine bay bulkhead like the blue, red, yellow, etc.
> Check those out. Make sure all your connectors are good and shiny on
> the FV and warm up reg. A combination of all of these was my problem
> that kept me from starting hot and idling nice. I didn't need to
> purchase anything other then some Dielectric and vac o-ring seals so
> make sure this is all good to go. You can fix a lot by just checking
> out electrical connections for worn, loose, bad and corroded
> connections. If that fails, maybe your throttle plates are too worn
> allowing too much air in, maybe you have bad wires (even if they're
> new check them), cap rotor all that good stuff. Hows your fuel system,
> fuel distributor, etc? -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 01:41:17 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Door/Roof Seals



it's also a little easier to work on if you remove the door piston and
prop the door full open past where it would stop if the piston was
installed. -----Dani B. #5003








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