From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2552
Date: Friday, April 01, 2005 9:57 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Can't get door open
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Can't get door open
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

3. Re: Powder coating back of water pump?
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

4. Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Found some interesting information
From: "delorean02378" <delorean02378_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Colorado Delorean Club
From: "Daniel Haney" <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

9. A question concerning engine bay dimensions and swapped motors
From: "squall67584" <squall67584_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Found some interesting information
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

11. Re: Can't get door open
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Found some interesting information
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

13. Re: Found some interesting information
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

14. Re: Can't get door open
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

15. Re: Trying to capitalize on JZD's passing?
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

17. Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

19. Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

20. Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please
From: "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Found some interesting information
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

22. Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Front breaks not working
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. DeLorean Article
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

25. DeLorean Bulkhead Connections
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 22:48:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Can't get door open



I've got the exact opposit problem -- if I unlock my driver door with
the key cylinder only, the cam does not move far enough and one of the
Nader bolts will hang the next time it is closed. Everything's cool if
I remember to shove the cam just a tad further with the interior
release lever before I close the door, but I lock it so rarely that I
never remember to do that. Then I end up reaching across from the
other side, popping the trim panel off, and activating the linkages
manually as everyone has said.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "trekkerlb_at_dml_n..." <TrekkerLB_at_dml_N...> wrote:
> 
> 
> This has happened to me - I can't say I've fixed it, but I opened it
up by carefully locking it with the key and unlocking.  I can't say
I've noticed it get any worse.  It happens to me when I lock the car
from the inside.  I've been meaning to look and see if anyone has had
this or could give some insight.
> 
> I hope this atleast opens the door!
> Luis 
> 3723








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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 23:19:31 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Can't get door open



I assume that the door lock here is jammed as well. If so, it's rather
simple to fix.

Instead of pulling up on the inner handle to open the door, press down
on it. While holding it down, unlock the door. Then let go, and pull
the handle to open the door like normal. If there is some severe
tension on the door from a misadjusted torsion bar, you *might* need
to also pull/push the door to keep it closed.

I've seen this happen on both my car, and on others. It'll happen when
the cable connecting the outer door handle hangs, and doesn't allow
the bell crank to fully retract. This will prevent the front door
latch from unlocking, and thus the door appears as though it's jammed.

The factory did an excellent job at adjusting the inner rods and
latches, and they should never need to be readjusted. Unless they are
upset, when you install new door handles for instance. In that case
you may need to adjust the cable, and or sheath. Make certain they're
fully seated, and have no preloaded tension.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> 
> I'm sure there has been one or several posts on this, but could not
> find one.  
> 
> My driver's side door has decided to only partially unlatch.  How do I
> get it to open and prevent it from happening again.  This occurred
> after I locked the door.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Woody
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 23:43:18 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Powder coating back of water pump?



I powdercoated the front and back of mine, along with the thermostat
housing :)  No leaks at all.  I also replaced the gasket while I was
in there.  It's kind of interesting...I remember one of the original
DeLorean brochures I saw once that showed the engine out of the car,
and the crank pulley, a/c pulley, and water pump pulley were black. 
It looked cool.  

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Stephen, I have seen a lot of water pump backs. But I have never
seen one
> that has leaked from the tube inserted into the back.  I have seen
the tubes
> very corroded and needed replaced, but not from expansion. If it was
going
> to leak it would began to corrode from inside out because of the
coolant.
> I don't think going to the trouble will help in the corrosion of the
tube,
> but it would look better, but who would see it.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stephen Card [mailto:stephen_at_dml_p...]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:01 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Powder coating back of water pump?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While kicking around the Valley of Death, water pump replacement was
> at the top of the list. I would like to powder coat the back since I
> found it full of corrosion, figured it was an ideal canidate.
> My concern is the steel pipe nipple mounted in the cast aluminum.
> Knowing that the metals expand and contract at different rates. Has
> anyone ever powder coated one sucessfully?
> Thanks,
> Stephen
> Vin 3601
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links








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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 23:56:06 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please



I don't think you'll have much luck here. I would not have known what 
you meant by "anti-blind spot" mirrors had I not just bought a used 
BMW that was brought in here from Germany. The prior owner had 
swapped the US-spec mirrors for the German ones - they are not even 
really legal here but once the car is manufactured nobody knows. 

They are pretty cool - the are "flat" glass for about 3/4 of the 
glass and are concave glass for the outer 1/4. On both sides of the 
car. First time I drove it I thought something was wrong with my 
glasses but I'm getting used to it.

Kind of off-topic but the other fun thing about this car is 
the "English" accent of the woman in the Navigation system. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> All.
> 
> I would like to be able to buy some anti-glare, anti-blindspot 
(wide-
> angle) door mirror glass. My 'modern' VW Golf includes the type of 
> style I'm after, eliminating the add-on/stick-on mirrors.
> 








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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 01:12:28 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please



If you find someone willing to do it you can include me. When I 
checked on this many years and considerable technology ago no one 
would do it either in the US - I wound up sticking on a mirror from 
a 1978 chevy monte carlo - a close fit. Great for the awful right 
side blind spots. With all the different shapes these days I still 
have not found one with a better fit and function.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> All.
> 
> I would like to be able to buy some anti-glare, anti-blindspot 
(wide-
> angle) door mirror glass. My 'modern' VW Golf includes the type of 
> style I'm after, eliminating the add-on/stick-on mirrors.
> 
> I have purchased the standard glass from DMCH and used that to 
> produce cardboard templates, unfortunatley I cannot find anyone in 
> the UK able/willing to manufacture such an item.
> 
> If anyone on the list knows of a company in the US who could 
produce 
> some please could you contact me, offlist if you prefer.
> 
> I have tried various search engines, without success. 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks for you help
> 
> 
> John Chapelhow
> 'Boeing' : #00737 : UK 
> 
> chapelhow...at...hotmail...dot...com








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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 02:12:48 -0000
From: "delorean02378" <delorean02378_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Found some interesting information



I was digging through my odd parts, old pictures, and original 
documentation on Vin#02378 and ran across the "Warranties 1981 New 
Vehicles" booklet. Here's the info.

Owner's Name: My dad

Street Address: Our old TN address

City/State/Zip: Martin/ TN, 38237

Vin# -002378

Date of Delivery:* 10/5/81

Vehicle Mileage At Delivery: 1373

Why would the mileage have been so high on a new vehicle? 

He drove to Savannah Georgia and purchased it from Southern Motors.

He tells a funny story about how he showed up at the Dealership in 
some jeans and a Harley Davidson T-Shirt with a check in his hand and 
when he told the lady at the front desk he was here to pick up his 
Delorean, she looked at him like he was crazy. She passed him off to 
some random salesman until he finally mentioned the GM's name who 
sold him the car.

Kirk Vin#02378













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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 20:35:09 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig


Group,

I just got new door pistons and now I need to get my torsion bars ratcheted 
down.  I increased both sides by 1 tooth a couple years ago because I thought 
the PO's struts were pretty new but I was getting some sagging.  Now with new 
struts if I don't hold the doors as I open them they will bounce (but not as 
bad as VB's!).  

This weekend I have nothing to do Sunday so I would like to make a torsion 
bar adjustment jig.  Anyone have the measurements or are they pretty much 
home-brew?  I have assisted a few times adjusting doors so I am confident I can do 
it.  It's just that the closest jig owner to me is more than 3 hours away.

Thanks!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 22:01:08 -0700
From: "Daniel Haney" <DRHANEY_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Colorado Delorean Club


So far interest in a Colorado club has been far from enthusiastic. Right it
is Brandon Naughton & Dick Ryan.
As soon as the weather gets a bit more predictable in these parts I believe
we are going to arrange a gathering.

If anyone else is interested drop me an e-mail pff-line.

Thanks,

Dan
Vin 3254







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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 04:40:30 -0000
From: "squall67584" <squall67584_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: A question concerning engine bay dimensions and swapped motors



I've searched for about 2 hours now using this site, and found a post 
from about 4 years ago or so that gave the centimeter dimensions for 
the engine bay.  But what confused me was that when I looked online for 
random GM engine dimensions, several of the motors that I have read 
about being swapped in, namely the 4.3 liter V6, was too long to fit, 
at least going by the numbers.  Of course this had a picture of a 
rather long water pump on the front of the motor, so maybe theres 
something to do with that that I have not read yet.  My concern is, I 
remember hearing about some people swapping in a Northstar V8, in fact, 
the dimensions post was reffering to this motor somehow, but I can't 
seem to find anything else specific to this motor swap.  Is the rear 
frame somehow modified to fit the longer engine, or is only the 
firewall modified?  I was contemplating the notion of using an LS1 
since there is a large after market for the engine to get more power, 
however I feel that 320hp is plenty for me. (Not that I really would 
need that kind of power for daily driving, but its nice to know its 
there.)  So anyway, if someone could clarify this issue I've stumbled 
on and can't seem to fid the answer to, I would be greatly apreciate it.








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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 23:37:07 -0600
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Found some interesting information


Kirk,

Here's my theory on that:  My car, VIN 1063, was at some 400 miles when 
first sold.  Considering my car was on the first shipment over here (left 
Belfast on April 19, 1981, arrived about a month later to the west coast), 
I'm sure the dealers were happy to have the coolest new car.  In the period 
between delivery to Colorado and purchase (less than two months), the dealer 
must have done quite a bit of driving.  Perhaps they used my car for test 
drives.

As I understand it (anyone jump in here if I've got my facts wrong), the 
first delivery to the east coast was somewhere in the 1500 VIN sequence, 
delivered on June 19, 1981.  Considering your VIN, 2378 was probably pretty 
fresh meat around Savannah in October of 1981.  If I had to guess, I'd say 
your car was built in July, shipped over in August or September, and your 
dad took delivery in October (?).  In the meantime, the dealer probably 
drove the car, gave a lot of thrilled people rides, and gave a few 
prospective buyers their first taste of DeLorean.  Pretty cool!  I would 
suspect that many of the later cars were sold with "no miles" simply as a 
result of having a larger supply.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063 in St. Louis


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "delorean02378" <delorean02378_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 8:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Found some interesting information


>
>
>
> I was digging through my odd parts, old pictures, and original
> documentation on Vin#02378 and ran across the "Warranties 1981 New
> Vehicles" booklet. Here's the info.
>
> Owner's Name: My dad
>
> Street Address: Our old TN address
>
> City/State/Zip: Martin/ TN, 38237
>
> Vin# -002378
>
> Date of Delivery:* 10/5/81
>
> Vehicle Mileage At Delivery: 1373
>
> Why would the mileage have been so high on a new vehicle?
>
> He drove to Savannah Georgia and purchased it from Southern Motors.
>
> He tells a funny story about how he showed up at the Dealership in
> some jeans and a Harley Davidson T-Shirt with a check in his hand and
> when he told the lady at the front desk he was here to pick up his
> Delorean, she looked at him like he was crazy. She passed him off to
> some random salesman until he finally mentioned the GM's name who
> sold him the car.
>
> Kirk Vin#02378
> 





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 06:29:11 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Can't get door open



I had a similar problem with my own D. But unfortunately for me, it
was 
the lock solenoids that gave out. I spent a very cold winter day 
driving it 25 miles or > to get the relays and solenoids installed! 
Thankfully I can now get in and out...then I broke a bolt on my trans.
(sighs.)
Estimated total of cumulative DeLorean repairs for me so far:
~$4500 parts and labor
Base cost of my car when I got it:
$9500
Taking my best friend/the girl I love to an Italian restaraunt around 
Valentine's and holding her hand in it when I give her a romantic
card 
with nice music playing off a brand new Alpine with JBL rear and 
Clarion front speakers: [the JBL fronts were a little too big] 
PRICELESS. :)










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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 09:14:25 -0000
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: Re: Found some interesting information



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean02378" <delorean02378_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Why would the mileage have been so high on a new vehicle? 

Nice story :)
My guess would be that the dealership probably used this car as 
a "company car", probably belonging to the dealership boss. Nice way to 
boost interest for the marque in the early 80s - drive it and show it!

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
VIN # 06759
Norway








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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 10:26:46 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Found some interesting information



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean02378" <delorean02378_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
<SNIP>
> 
> Why would the mileage have been so high on a new vehicle? 
<SNIP>

It's common for dealers to sometimes drive new cars home, & off the
lot for personal use. Aside from your normal test drives as well.
However, they're not supposed to only do this to one car, so that you
avoid such high milage on a car that you sell to someone brand new.

One time my parents bought a new car from the same dealership that I
did back in 1997. Theirs had only 8 miles on the clock, while mine had
36. Mine was sitting out front, and was the one that they were using
for test drives on everyone.

I imangine that they just loved showing your car off! :)

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"








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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 10:14:39 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Can't get door open



Same exact thing. The bellcrank isn't returning to it's original
position, because of the door latch cable. If you've got the upper
trim panel off, take a look at how the linkage works, and you'll see it.

And if you've got the upper trim panel off, I'd reccomend lubricating
the linkage. White Lithium Grease in a spray can works wonders. Sprays
out like water to get into the hard to reach places (like the cable
housing), but will thicken up into grease within a few seconds.

DMC Joe had written a long time ago that his fix for this was to
disconnect the locking rod from the front latch. And yes, while
that'll work, it doesn't really fix the root issue here. And it's far
simpler to lube, and adjust the one cable, then it is to have to tear
into the rods and mechanisms.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I've got the exact opposit problem -- if I unlock my driver door with
> the key cylinder only, the cam does not move far enough and one of the
> Nader bolts will hang the next time it is closed. Everything's cool if
> I remember to shove the cam just a tad further with the interior
> release lever before I close the door, but I lock it so rarely that I
> never remember to do that. Then I end up reaching across from the
> other side, popping the trim panel off, and activating the linkages
> manually as everyone has said.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "trekkerlb_at_dml_n..." <TrekkerLB_at_dml_N...>
wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > This has happened to me - I can't say I've fixed it, but I opened it
> up by carefully locking it with the key and unlocking.  I can't say
> I've noticed it get any worse.  It happens to me when I lock the car
> from the inside.  I've been meaning to look and see if anyone has had
> this or could give some insight.
> > 
> > I hope this atleast opens the door!
> > Luis 
> > 3723








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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2005 05:42:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Trying to capitalize on JZD's passing?


Patrick,
Since I've been searching & saving for my car ('97) DMCH's prices seem to be
updated every 6 months averaging just under a $2,000 increase each year, roughly
(milage may vary).

Shannon Y
16506

------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 19:49:10 -0500
   From: Patrick Conlon >>snip<<
Subject: Re: Trying to capitalize on JZD's passing?

>>snip<<

 Also, a random question, I noticed DMCH's car is $37,500 now.  Was this raised
from $35,000 before or after JZD's death?

>>snip<<

-Patrick C.
1880


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Personals - Better first dates. More second dates. 
http://personals.yahoo.com






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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2005 03:45:16 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig


Andy,
This will not be a lot of help to you and probably others will come up with 
the answer.   I built up the jig and bought all of the tools needed 
(Craftsman from Sears) plus a 6 foot long pipe to give me plenty of 
leverage!!   I had some of the material on hand but I think the cost might 
run around $100.   Like you, the nearest person who had a jig setup was too 
far away for me so I built up my own.   I have only used it twice but it has 
worked out great and worth the cost for sure.
The plans and dimensions are in a DeLorean World magazine and right now I 
cannot find it.  Maybe someone else can put their finger on it.    (I am 
still looking!)  It consists of a 2x6 piece of wood about 6 feet long and I 
padded it on both ends with a piece of carpeting....then it had uprights 
bolted to it (around 6" high) of some 6x6 chunks with a U shape in the top, 
to hold the wrenches.  This all went across the back of the D engine 
compartment on top.  It takes two people to do it and is a tricky thing but 
if you are careful it is not hard at all.  It takes one person to keep 
pressure on the long leverage bar while the other tells that person whether 
to let up on it or give it more pressure in order to get the splines lined 
up.   Indidentally, a year or so ago, my doors were starting to sag and I 
decided to get new struts first as mine were 8 years old.  When I did this, 
the doors went right back up to the top and have been fine ever 
since........so be sure of checking that part before you adust the torsion 
bars tension.

Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII
 






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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 15:18:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig



A way around the problem of not having the jig is to remove the rear
sunshade. It will take you a bit longer to do than having the jig but
if you do not do many adjustments it may be a better idea than
building the jig. In any case be sure to use good quality tools. Do
not cheap out or try with 3/8 tools. Use a 1/2 inch tool with a 1/2
inch breaker bar and put a piece of pipe on it at least 4 feet long.
Be careful of the sharp edge that is exposed on the underside of the
"Tee" roof panel when you remove the plastic valence. It may take you
some time to readjust the sunshade when you put it back so mark it's
position before removal. I like to stick a piece of rubber between the
torsion bar and the rear hinge so when you mess with it and it moves
around it does not get scratched on the hinge. If it won't fit you can
just put your fingers around the torsion bar and pull it away from the
hinge to get room. I use a piece of rubber from an old truck  inner
tube. You can cut a strip and leave it there after you finish if you want.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> Andy,
> This will not be a lot of help to you and probably others will come up 








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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 15:26:55 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig



I'm sorry, but I just don't see why you would want to spend that kind
of money, or even bother building a jig for the T-bar adjustment. I
have pictures and a description of my method of safely adjusting the
T-bar, adjustment will take 5-10 minutes and it is no problem. Are you
worried about the rear windscreen? With my simple method, the
windscreen  can never come in contact with the bracket, and will cost
you 5 bucks(?)-However much the hex key costs and you will use tools
that you will likely already have. If people are interested I'll post
my description and some pictures to show you not only how I adjusted
or removed/reinstalled the T-bar, but also door removal and
installation with ease. Let me know, and on Sunday I'll post
everything-----Dani B. #5003




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> Andy,
> This will not be a lot of help to you and probably others will come
up with 
> the answer.   I built up the jig and bought all of the tools needed 
> (Craftsman from Sears) plus a 6 foot long pipe to give me plenty of 
> leverage!!   I had some of the material on hand but I think the cost
might 
> run around $100.   Like you, the nearest person who had a jig setup
was too 
> far away for me so I built up my own.   I have only used it twice
but it has 
> worked out great and worth the cost for sure.
> The plans and dimensions are in a DeLorean World magazine and right
now I 
> cannot find it.  Maybe someone else can put their finger on it.   
(I am 
> still looking!)  It consists of a 2x6 piece of wood about 6 feet
long and I 
> padded it on both ends with a piece of carpeting....then it had
uprights 
> bolted to it (around 6" high) of some 6x6 chunks with a U shape in
the top, 
> to hold the wrenches.  This all went across the back of the D engine 
> compartment on top.  It takes two people to do it and is a tricky
thing but 
> if you are careful it is not hard at all.  It takes one person to keep 
> pressure on the long leverage bar while the other tells that person
whether 
> to let up on it or give it more pressure in order to get the splines
lined 
> up.   Indidentally, a year or so ago, my doors were starting to sag
and I 
> decided to get new struts first as mine were 8 years old.  When I
did this, 
> the doors went right back up to the top and have been fine ever 
> since........so be sure of checking that part before you adust the
torsion 
> bars tension.
> 
> Murray
> Vin: 05962
> Lic: DMC-XII








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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 16:30:02 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig



If you don't mind removing the louvers, this job can be done with only
a breaker bar, allen socket and a 4' steel pipe for leverage.  Still
requires 2 people, though.  

Matt
#1604









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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 17:01:08 -0000
From: "Chris " <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please



A suggestion. If you know anyone that is into lapidary it would be 
an easy job. Get a couple of mirrors at a junkyard and have them cut 
to size. 

Chris
6301


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> All.
> 
> I would like to be able to buy some anti-glare, anti-blindspot 
(wide-
> angle) door mirror glass. My 'modern' VW Golf includes the type of 
> style I'm after, eliminating the add-on/stick-on mirrors.
> 
> I have purchased the standard glass from DMCH and used that to 
> produce cardboard templates, unfortunatley I cannot find anyone in 
> the UK able/willing to manufacture such an item.
> 
> If anyone on the list knows of a company in the US who could 
produce 
> some please could you contact me, offlist if you prefer.
> 
> I have tried various search engines, without success. 
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks for you help
> 
> 
> John Chapelhow
> 'Boeing' : #00737 : UK 
> 
> chapelhow...at...hotmail...dot...com








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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2005 09:22:24 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Found some interesting information


My car has a build date of October 81 and shows arrival in Long Beach CA and 
trucked to Bothel, WA where it was sold almost exactly a year later, Oct 21, 
1982.  The original receipt has a place for "mileage", but it is blank. 
When I bought it from the original owner it had 3443 miles on it.   It is 
interesting that my number  5962 has a build date the same as 1063.   I know 
that October 81 was the highest production month of all, but that sure is a 
lot of cars in that month!!   When the owner heard the news on his car radio 
re the DeLorean drug arrest, he made a U ball and went right back to this 
dealership and purchased the car......they were "running scared" re future 
sales and he paid $19950 for it. He bought it on a weekend and later that 
weekend he got a call from the dealer saying that if his check bounced 
Monday, he would take the car back as he had sold all five of his DeLoreans 
and should have sold it for a lot more!!  His check didn't bounce!  I 
believe another car purchased the same day at the same place was by  Arnie 
Brandon, Past Pres of PNWDC.

Incidentally, the Seattle Times had headlined the DeLorean drug fiasco and 
had a pix of John cuffed.  They were looking for a recent buyer of a D and 
found THIS one.....took a picture of it with the owner sitting in it in 
front of the dealership......she was a pretty blonde with nice legs!!  The 
two pix hit AP and went round the world.....the owner received clippings 
from Florida to London and you name it.   I have a copy of the newspaper 
article and picture.  I treasure it!!

Murray Fisher
Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Walla Walla, WA

 






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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 20:00:58 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig



Don't mind removing the louvers??????

I'd rather pull my own teeth than re-align the louvers again. The 
louvers DO NOT need to be removed to adjust torsion bars. Just use 
grady's schematic to build the jig, get the proper sickets and proper 
extensions. Tape them to make sure they don't come apart. 

Still a two man job, one moving the breaker bar, and one aligning the 
splines.

Don't remove the louvers, you'll be cussing and swearing at them for 
hours.

Matt, do you just like doing things the hardest way possible?


Joe O'Brien

2524
16634
16851




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> 
> If you don't mind removing the louvers, this job can be done with 
only
> a breaker bar, allen socket and a 4' steel pipe for leverage.  Still
> requires 2 people, though.  
> 
> Matt
> #1604








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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 20:27:46 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Front breaks not working



Hi all,

Been a long time since I posted here but here goes.
I am still in the process of restoring my DMC and everything is going
smoothly except the front breaks! I installed new/rebuilt calipers all
around, replaced all break lines (I did a chassis of restoration) and
installed a brand new master cylinder. I bled the master cylinder and
bled all the calipers in sequence to what the repair manual states. My
rear breaks work when I press my break peddle down but I am able to
spin the front tires with the break peddle pressed. I've bled the
front calipers like 30 times, tried a pressure bleeder and Rob Grady
was kind enough to swap out my master cylinder I purchased from him
and they still do not work! Is there a magic way to bleed the front
breaks? I've bled tons of break systems before and NEVER ran into this
problem! I've also went ahead and swapped out the calipers with
another set of rebuilt ones and they still do not work. The only break
system component that I did not replace was the break booster....could
this be causing my problem? Just to trouble shoot, I disconnected the
break line going from the master cylinder going to the front breaks
and put compressed air into the lines and sure enough the breaks
locked the rotor as they should. This is the only thing that is
keeping me from test driving it on the road!!!

My next test, I was going to try to connect the front break lines to
the rear breaks port on the master cylinder to see if that would
work....but that required that I bend the tubes and I don't want to
risk cracking them.

Thanks in advanced,

Steve









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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2005 16:07:37 -0600
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: DeLorean Article


 The April 4th edition of Autoweek magazine has a one page article about the
career of John DeLorean written but J Patrick Wright, DeLorean's co-author
of "On A Clear Day You Can See General Motors"

Bruce Benson






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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 00:54:38 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: DeLorean Bulkhead Connections



I spent serveral long hours in my garage and traced and identified all 
the wires going to the connectors under the coil cover.  I uploaded a 
new file with the info called,  DeLorean Bulkhead Connectors.  It is 
for all to use.  Anyone who wants to place it on their own website is 
welcome to do so as long as they do not change the file in anyway and 
keep the copyright notice.

If anyone finds an error please let me know so I can update the file.

I dedicate my work in honor of the late great John Z. DeLorean who made 
the dream possible for all of us.

I would also like to publicly thank, Dick Ryan who kept 6530 in great 
condition prior to my ownership and made the dream possible for me.

Dave Delman
aka  Dē & 6530








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