From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2553
Date: Saturday, April 02, 2005 6:33 PM


There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Front breaks not working
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: Front breaks not working
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. 04/02/05 Michigan Spring gathering????
From: "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

4. Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

5. Re: DeLorean Bulkhead Connections
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

6. Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

7. JZD in Autoweek
From: " Toscano" <toscano2_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

8. Re: Front breaks not working
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

9. The Second Fiddle Thread
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. RE: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

11. Explodaview Wall Chart
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

12. RE: The Second Fiddle Thread
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>

13. Re: Found some interesting information
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

14. Re: Help me!!!!!!!
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig
From: "Nick" <nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Re: WTF????????
From: Nathan Gess <bmw3ix_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. odd brake noise
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

19. "DeLorean Story - The End"
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2005 21:12:43 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Front breaks not working


Steve,It would help to have more information such as, can you see the piston
extend out or the pad move in when you press on the brake peddle. What is
the thickness of the rotor and what is the thickness of the pad.
Rotor may be to thin or the pistons just aren't moving in the hole or the
pads have trouble. Bleeding the front is independent of the back since there
are 2 pressure seal in the master.

Delorean Brake power servo as listed on the web site:

When your brakes are soft it's hydraulics, When they are hard it's the power
servo or a vacuum leak. Rebuilt with a 5 year warranty.
$124.95 exchange.

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: basfe25 [mailto:dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 2:28 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Front breaks not working





Hi all,

Been a long time since I posted here but here goes.
I am still in the process of restoring my DMC and everything is going
smoothly except the front breaks! I installed new/rebuilt calipers all
around, replaced all break lines (I did a chassis of restoration) and
installed a brand new master cylinder. I bled the master cylinder and
bled all the calipers in sequence to what the repair manual states. My
rear breaks work when I press my break peddle down but I am able to
spin the front tires with the break peddle pressed. I've bled the
front calipers like 30 times, tried a pressure bleeder and Rob Grady
was kind enough to swap out my master cylinder I purchased from him
and they still do not work! Is there a magic way to bleed the front
breaks? I've bled tons of break systems before and NEVER ran into this
problem! I've also went ahead and swapped out the calipers with
another set of rebuilt ones and they still do not work. The only break
system component that I did not replace was the break booster....could
this be causing my problem? Just to trouble shoot, I disconnected the
break line going from the master cylinder going to the front breaks
and put compressed air into the lines and sure enough the breaks
locked the rotor as they should. This is the only thing that is
keeping me from test driving it on the road!!!

My next test, I was going to try to connect the front break lines to
the rear breaks port on the master cylinder to see if that would
work....but that required that I bend the tubes and I don't want to
risk cracking them.

Thanks in advanced,

Steve









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 04:14:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Front breaks not working



I am going to guess that you are not properly bleeding the master
cylinder before trying to bleed the brake system. Get 2 short tubes
that screw into the master cylinder and just pump the pedal slowly
until all the bubbles stop coming out. NOW hook up the brake lines to
it and bleed the calipers all around again. The booster has NOTHING to
do with bleeding the brake system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Been a long time since I posted here but here goes.
> I am still in the process of restoring my DMC and everything is going
> smoothly except the front breaks! I installed new/rebuilt calipers all
> 








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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 04:37:04 -0000
From: "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: 04/02/05 Michigan Spring gathering????



Well I don't know if any one's coming to the get together here in Dearborn michigan 
04/02/05 I got 3 emails asking about changing to sunday or canceling to an other 
date, well, I guess I'll be there either way as I already took the day off & got my car 
ready to drive even if I'm by myself I'm cruising.  pantara bread lot usually is 
jammed packed as the parking is terrible but, there is a big lot behind building, I 
will be in front if there's room 11:00 am see ya there. 
Lawrence 








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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 04:47:42 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig



Re-installing the louvers is much like re-installing the glove box
lid, and I've found both are very manageable if you go about it
methodically and set them in the "latched" position while the
adjusting screws/bolts are SEMI-loose, i.e., tight enough to hold
their position but loose enough to move if you push on them.  You can
work from there.  I can think of a lot harder jobs than re-aligning
louvers, such as:

-removing/reinstalling the dashboard
-removing/reinstalling the cylinder heads
-removing/reinstalling engine cover hinges
-swapping out a broken lower crankcase (LOL)

No one is saying you NEED to remove the louvers to adjust the torsion
bars, but it can be done with less tools if you do, and if your engine
cover is removed from the car.  

Matt
#1604 - with a '91 dodge monaco swap on the way

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Don't mind removing the louvers??????
> 
> I'd rather pull my own teeth than re-align the louvers again. The 
> louvers DO NOT need to be removed to adjust torsion bars. Just use 
> grady's schematic to build the jig, get the proper sickets and proper 
> extensions. Tape them to make sure they don't come apart. 
> 
> Still a two man job, one moving the breaker bar, and one aligning the 
> splines.
> 
> Don't remove the louvers, you'll be cussing and swearing at them for 
> hours.
> 
> Matt, do you just like doing things the hardest way possible?
> 
> 
> Joe O'Brien
> 
> 2524
> 16634
> 16851
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > If you don't mind removing the louvers, this job can be done with 
> only
> > a breaker bar, allen socket and a 4' steel pipe for leverage.  Still
> > requires 2 people, though.  
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604








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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 04:52:29 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Bulkhead Connections



That is FANTASTIC!!!  Excellent work on this, Dave.  It will really
come handy when I get around to wiring in my new engine.  Thank you so
much for doing it (and for free)!

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I spent serveral long hours in my garage and traced and identified all 
> the wires going to the connectors under the coil cover.  I uploaded a 
> new file with the info called,  DeLorean Bulkhead Connectors.  It is 
> for all to use.  Anyone who wants to place it on their own website is 
> welcome to do so as long as they do not change the file in anyway and 
> keep the copyright notice.
> 
> If anyone finds an error please let me know so I can update the file.
> 
> I dedicate my work in honor of the late great John Z. DeLorean who made 
> the dream possible for all of us.
> 
> I would also like to publicly thank, Dick Ryan who kept 6530 in great 
> condition prior to my ownership and made the dream possible for me.
> 
> Dave Delman
> aka  Dē & 6530








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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 04:53:08 -0000
From: "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig



Torsion Bars should not be adjusted, these are factory set & the only thing that you 
can do is replace the strut if it's sagging, in the cold the strut will sag in the heat it will 
expand & not sag. if you do any thing to the torsion bar you must be prepared to 
spend the extra money to replace the broken torsion Bar, windsield or the back 
window " depending on which one brakes when torsion bar gives way. this has been 
posted quite a few times as this was the worst thing someone came up with as torsion 
bars are even more scares & expensive due to this bad adjustment.

Lawrence  00538

 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Don't mind removing the louvers??????
> 
> I'd rather pull my own teeth than re-align the louvers again. The 
> louvers DO NOT need to be removed to adjust torsion bars. Just use 
> grady's schematic to build the jig, get the proper sickets and proper 
> extensions. Tape them to make sure they don't come apart. 
> 
> Still a two man job, one moving the breaker bar, and one aligning the 
> splines.
> 
> Don't remove the louvers, you'll be cussing and swearing at them for 
> hours.
> 
> Matt, do you just like doing things the hardest way possible?
> 
> 
> Joe O'Brien
> 
> 2524
> 16634
> 16851
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > If you don't mind removing the louvers, this job can be done with 
> only
> > a breaker bar, allen socket and a 4' steel pipe for leverage.  Still
> > requires 2 people, though.  
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604








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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 09:39:54 -0500
From: " Toscano" <toscano2_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: JZD in Autoweek


Also in Autoweek, March 28 issue, bottom of page 2, short obituary for JZD.
Though there is no byline, I appreciate that they had the journalistic
integrity to mention his acquittal on the drug charges (many, many things I
have read over the years omit this fact-- as I am sure you all have
noticed).

David C. Toscano
former owner: 1650 and 4337






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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 15:20:48 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Front breaks not working



You are sure all the air is out of the rear brakes? You replaced the 
flex brake lines? Air and fluid may not give the same results in an 
internally damaged flex brake line. Also, very important, did you 
bench bleed the master cylinder before you put it on?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Been a long time since I posted here but here goes.
> I am still in the process of restoring my DMC and everything is 
going
> smoothly except the front breaks! I installed new/rebuilt calipers 
all
> around, replaced all break lines (I did a chassis of restoration) 
and
> installed a brand new master cylinder. I bled the master cylinder 
and
> bled all the calipers in sequence to what the repair manual 
states. My
> rear breaks work when I press my break peddle down but I am able to
> spin the front tires with the break peddle pressed. I've bled the
> front calipers like 30 times, tried a pressure bleeder and Rob 
Grady
> was kind enough to swap out my master cylinder I purchased from him
> and they still do not work! Is there a magic way to bleed the front
> breaks? I've bled tons of break systems before and NEVER ran into 
this
> problem! I've also went ahead and swapped out the calipers with
> another set of rebuilt ones and they still do not work. The only 
break
> system component that I did not replace was the break 
booster....could
> this be causing my problem? Just to trouble shoot, I disconnected 
the
> break line going from the master cylinder going to the front breaks
> and put compressed air into the lines and sure enough the breaks
> locked the rotor as they should. This is the only thing that is
> keeping me from test driving it on the road!!!
> 
> My next test, I was going to try to connect the front break lines 
to
> the rear breaks port on the master cylinder to see if that would
> work....but that required that I bend the tubes and I don't want to
> risk cracking them.
> 
> Thanks in advanced,
> 
> Steve








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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 16:54:41 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: The Second Fiddle Thread



I love hearing about you guys that actually have your D's as daily 
drivers.  I'm not there yet, mostly because of a few things left on 
the to-do list and the periodic desire for anonymity.  I bet that more 
than a few of us fall into this category, and sometimes don't want to 
be bothered.  My "second fiddle," which is really my commuter and 
weekend work horse, is a Chevy S-10.  Sometimes you just need to haul 
crap.

So what's your second fiddle and why?  Do you treat it like the 
proverbial red-headed step child?












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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 08:35:27 -0800
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig


Lawrence,

No offense intended, but where did you get the idea that "Torsion Bars
should not be adjusted"? Never? Even after twenty-something years?

The important thing is to install a NEW, quality strut (preferably
temperature compensated) first. Then IF you still need to make an
adjustment, do it.

Gary
IN2TIME


> Torsion Bars should not be adjusted, these are factory set 
> & the only thing that you can do is replace the strut...






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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 11:45:14 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: Explodaview Wall Chart


All,
 
I received my DeLorean Explodaview wall chart today.
 
enquiries_at_dml_explodaview.com
 
www.explodaview.com
 
 
This is a fantastic piece of work that Andrew Snell produced.
 
If you do not have one, you need to get one.
 
A satisfied customer.
 
Scott Mueller 002981


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 12:56:50 -0500
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com>
Subject: RE: The Second Fiddle Thread


My second fiddle is a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel.  The third fiddle is a
1988 Jaguar XJSC.  The wife has a minivan, but will be upgrading to an H2
here shortly.  

FTR I treat all my vehicles the same way I treat my kids, no one is better
than another and I Love them all equally

Jack Stiefel - Tampa, Fl
DMC Vin 03461
Listen to the best music of all time at www.fmtimemachine.com
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: S [mailto:theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 11:55 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] The Second Fiddle Thread




I love hearing about you guys that actually have your D's as daily 
drivers.  I'm not there yet, mostly because of a few things left on 
the to-do list and the periodic desire for anonymity.  I bet that more 
than a few of us fall into this category, and sometimes don't want to 
be bothered.  My "second fiddle," which is really my commuter and 
weekend work horse, is a Chevy S-10.  Sometimes you just need to haul 
crap.

So what's your second fiddle and why?  Do you treat it like the 
proverbial red-headed step child?












To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 12:26:16 -0600
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Found some interesting information



I think you might have misread that.  1063 was built in April.  Kirk's 2378 
was built in July and was purchased in October.  -Just clearing up any 
confusion.

An interesting story none-the less!

Jake Kamphoefner
1063

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Found some interesting information


>
>
> My car has a build date of October 81 and shows arrival in Long Beach CA 
> and
> trucked to Bothel, WA where it was sold almost exactly a year later, Oct 
> 21,
> 1982.  The original receipt has a place for "mileage", but it is blank.
> When I bought it from the original owner it had 3443 miles on it.   It is
> interesting that my number  5962 has a build date the same as 1063.   I 
> know
> that October 81 was the highest production month of all, but that sure is 
> a
> lot of cars in that month!!
<snip> 






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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 18:57:13 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Help me!!!!!!!



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> In my experience, these engines are a bit funny when it comes to free
> flow exhaust-there is a point where there can be too much flow. A lot
> of engines rely on backpressures for certain things and when you take
> this pressure away, it will result in all kinds of mischief. If you're
> coasting down a hill throttle closed and it is popping and backfiring,
> then the others are correct in saying it is the exhaust system. Are
> you using Alpine headers? -----Dani B. #5003
Hey I am using the stainless system from the uk without cats... 
Thanks..Dave..sorry i havent been on have been moving..








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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 19:28:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig



Although the factory setting is probably correct, in many cases a P.O.
may have adjusted the torsion bars to compensate for weak struts. Or
door guides were added to an early car and the torsion bars were not
adjusted to compensate for the added weight. If new struts are
installed and the doors won't stay all the way up the torsion bars
NEED to be adjusted. We have a simple test if you need struts and/or a
torsion bar adjustment. Remove the strut and let the door close
slowly. It should come to rest open between 2 to 6 inches. If it does
the torsion bar is probably OK and you just need a strut. Adjusting a
torsion bar is not all that bad if you are properly equipped to deal
with it and have some experience. That being said there is always the
small chance it could get away from you when it is adjusted. IMHO when
done properly that chance is acceptably small enough to warrant
adjusting it. I am finding in most cases I unwind the bars 1-2 splines
to work with new, fresh  struts. That can only prolong the life of the
system since it is under less stress.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin00538" <lawrencesr_at_dml_n...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Torsion Bars should not be adjusted, these are factory set & the
only thing that you 
> can do is replace the strut if it's sagging, in the cold the strut
will sag in the heat it will 
> expand & not sag. if you do any thing to the torsion bar you must be
prepared to 
>








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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 21:24:25 -0000
From: "Nick" <nicholden_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig



Hi, I have just adjusted mine last week with great success and what i 
did (my louvers were already off though) was i cut a piece of thick 
plywood i had to fit the accross the engine bay pontoon. Put some rags 
inbetween the fibreglass and the plywood so as not to scratch it. This 
gave me a level base to put a car small stand on. I used the stand to 
support the 1/2 inch extention. Very easy and quick.

Cheers, Nick - sydney 10927





Message: 19
Date: Fri, 01 Apr 2005 16:30:02 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: plans for torsion bar adjustment jig



If you don't mind removing the louvers, this job can be done with only
a breaker bar, allen socket and a 4' steel pipe for leverage.  Still
requires 2 people, though.  

Matt
#1604









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2005 14:06:03 -0600
From: Nathan Gess <bmw3ix_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: WTF????????


Hello,

I know some people like to logon to yahoo to read their posts, and
that's fine.  But what I've done is signed up with a gmail account and
read that way.  The conversations are automatically placed togeather,
and you can search for anything as far back as you have received.  If
you start now you should have a nice hefty personal database by the
end of the year.

If anyone needs a gmail invite, send a request to dodint_at_dml_gmail.com  I
have 50 of them to give out.

We've talked about it on here before, but I'd like to reiterate that
it's changed the way I deal with mailing lists.

Best of Luck,
Nathan Gess

[moderator snip]





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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 16:52:52 -0500
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: odd brake noise


It is late Sat afternoon, I've spent the past couple hours trying to track
down noise coming from what I think is left front wheel region. First I
thought it was speedo cable, and as it is not working anyhow because of a
problem up behind the dash, I disconnected it and tie- wrapped it up out of
the way. I also pulled out the plastic cap with the square hole that covers
the stub axle nut and engages the right angle drive. No change. Can a faulty
angle drive be noisy under these conditions?

The sound is periodic at the wheel rotation frequency, goes away when I turn
right, becomes much louder when I put on the brakes. I think it is something
to do with brake pads dragging, but the sound also has an odd rubbery
characteristic to it, almost like the brake pad has a rubberized insert that
has become disloged and is jamming between the pad and the rotor. I took
both wheels off (just in case some weird acoustic thing was making me think
the problem was on the left when it is actually on the right), spun the
rotors, nothing obvious there, just a slight drag at one point in the
rotation, feeling of the drag just what one would expect for brake pads
skimming a rotor that has some slight runout. Pads look fine, caliper bolts
are tight,..

I googled for 'delorean brake noise', found a hit that suggested a stub axle
nut not fully torqued to 165 ft-lbs causes a periodic break 'squeal'. So I
made the trip down to the local hardware store, picked up a 32mm socket
(.010 bigger than the desired 1-1/4", which was out of stock), and could not
budge the nut while hanging on a 2ft wrench arm, so figure that is not the
problem. Tho I did this only on left side, not right.

This car is my daily driver, and I need it, but don't want to drive it until
I understand what's going on. Any suggestions?

Pete Cameron
vin 3579






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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 17:11:12 EST
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: "DeLorean Story - The End"


Here is another article on John Z. DeLorean.

http://www.just-auto.com/features_detail.asp?art=1080&lk=e263

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic. 9D NY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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