From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2554
Date: Sunday, April 03, 2005 7:46 PM


There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: odd brake noise
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: The Second Fiddle Thread
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

3. Re: The Second Fiddle Thread
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. lower speedo cable
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Socail - 14 days and counting
From: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

6. Re: Front breaks not working
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Replacing Brake Master Cylinder
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: lower speedo cable
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Re: Replacing Brake Master Cylinder
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: The Second Fiddle Thread
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

11. RE: Re: Front breaks not working
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. Re: Front breaks not working
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

13. the 1st DMC Italian meeting June 2005
From: "Edoardo Auteri" <kin_taro_oe_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. Re: Replacing Brake Master Cylinder
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

15. odd brake noise?
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

16. Re: Replacing Brake Master Cylinder
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

17. Re: The Second Fiddle Thread
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

18. Re: The Second Fiddle Thread
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: odd brake noise?
From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 23:57:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: odd brake noise



Take the pads out of the caliper and see if the noise goes away. You
may have an anti-squeal pad that has come out-of-place or maybe you
just need to replace them and the brake pads. P J Grady sells a kit
with anti-squell pads, pins, and springs which is supposed to quiet
even the noisiest car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> 
> It is late Sat afternoon, I've spent the past couple hours trying to
track
> down noise coming from what I think is left front wheel region. First I
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 18:17:40 -0600
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: The Second Fiddle Thread


> So what's your second fiddle and why?  Do you treat it like the
> proverbial red-headed step child?

"My" second fiddle is a '90 F150 ext cab. I'd like something older
(and Chevy or Toyota), but like the extra room in the cab. It is a
RHSC... be grudge any money spent on it as it could go to the D. It
has a list of things to do longer than the D.
The wife drives a Cooper... except when we go anywhere together then
I'm driving. It's a fun car, a real gas, but nice and easy on the gas
budget. Unlike the pick-up and the D (I drive it hard).
The D is driven (weather depending) five or more days a week.
-Kevin #4687, nearly 40k miles





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 19:27:01 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: The Second Fiddle Thread


In a message dated 4/2/05 3:46:43 PM Central Standard Time, 
jackstiefel_at_dml_stiefelaluminum.com writes:


> FTR I treat all my vehicles the same way I treat my kids, no one is better
> than another and I Love them all equally
> 

Like Jack, I treat my Lexus ES300 just like the DeLorean. I use only OEM 
parts and fix every tiny thing that comes up.  The little things that add up are 
what will kill you in the end.  Eventually they pile up so high the car doesn't 
seem like it is worth keeping.  If I didn't get the parts for my Lexus at 
wholesale I might not insist on OEM parts however. I typically save 20% though 
the shop I manage.  

But I sure can appreciate 'the right part the first time' - kind of when 
dealing with your DeLorean vendor of choice!

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 20:19:50 EST
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: lower speedo cable


Hey group,

Lower speedo cable went out on me today. the ends on it are OK but the inner 
wire has come apart and is all twisted up in the sheath.  Too bad I threw my 
old one away a couple years ago.

Every single other part of the speedo system checks out OK (all parts have 
been replaced except the lambda counter and gauge w/in the last 4 years).  So, 
either this part is defective (8000 miles on it) or there is something else 
wrong I can't figure out.

I have the bracket that routes the lower cable installed too.  Anyone have a 
pic or drawing of how the cable is supposed to be routed? I'm 99% sure I had 
it right. There's pretty much only one way to do it unless you want the cable 
all twisted up. I had it go through the inside of the bracket (through the 
front of it, as in straight through from the angle drive), then make kind of an 
'S' to the firewall.  

Any other ideas on what could have happened besides a bad cable?  It is the 
newer version (shorter) cable.  I was driving home from work and heard a 
clicking sound accompanied by a wild speedo needle. 200 feet later the speedo died.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2005 20:38:15 -0500
From: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Socail - 14 days and counting


Only 14 days left to the DMA Spring Social.   Still not convinced you 
should attend?   Ok...how about a sneak peak at SOME of the AWESOME 
prizes we will have!!??

Gift Certificates
DMC Blankets
Shirts
Artwork
Tune up Parts and an Alternator from John Hervey!!  (Thanks John for the 
TON of goodies you sent!)
......AND MUCH MUCH MORE!!!!!

Check out the latest details and see pictures of the prizes at 
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/updates/updates.htm
Hurry up and register before the price to attend goes up!  It should 
prove to be a ton of fun with all that we have planned for that day!   
43 People are already pre-registered and paid to come to the event 
(That's a total of 23 Cars!)  Are you really going to miss the largest 
Delorean Event of 2005!!???

Remember:  This is a RAIN or SHINE event  (lets all pray for Sun!!!..but 
bring umbrellas just in case)

Itinerary and more details coming soon...stay tuned for more information.

- Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club
Clubevents(at)deloreanmidatlantic.com





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 01:53:59 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Front breaks not working



I already did that with the flex tubes but it won't hurt to try it
again, hopefully that is all that is wrong. When I used the tubes I
fed them back into the reservoir of the master cylinder and pumped the
brakes, maybe next time I'll fill a pan up with brake fluid and place
it beneath the master cylinder with the tubes submerged into it.

To answer the question someone else asked if I replaced the flex
tubes...Yes I did, sorry I failed to mention that :) 

The front caliper pistons move very little when the brake pedal is
pressed so I know that there has to be air in there someplace.

Thanks all for the response; I'll let you know what happens when I
give it a try again during the week.


Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I am going to guess that you are not properly bleeding the master
> cylinder before trying to bleed the brake system. Get 2 short tubes
> that screw into the master cylinder and just pump the pedal slowly
> until all the bubbles stop coming out. NOW hook up the brake lines to
> it and bleed the calipers all around again. The booster has NOTHING to
> do with bleeding the brake system.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi all,
> > 
> > Been a long time since I posted here but here goes.
> > I am still in the process of restoring my DMC and everything is going
> > smoothly except the front breaks! I installed new/rebuilt calipers all
> >








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 02:47:53 -0000
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Replacing Brake Master Cylinder



I need to replace my master cylinder. I have the nuts removed that hold 
it to the brake booster and the lines removed but it won't break free 
from the booster. Could I get a thin putty knife and try to separate it 
or is there something else holding it on there? After reading Steve's 
posts about the brake parts he replaced and the responses he got about 
bleeding, I thought I could just replace it and hook up the lines and 
then bleed them. But I saw some posts about bench bleeding the master 
cylinder. How do I do that? Thanks for any help.
Mike
5623








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 05:07:34 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: lower speedo cable



Which way is it wound -- with primary rotation or against it? When my
angle drive cable did the same thing, I discovered it was wound
AGAINST primary wheel rotation. Am speculating DMC had some made for
intended RHD applications, and one of those made it onto my car. #5939
appears to have spent time off the assembly line anyway (late model
pull straps for example), so it makes sense that as things
deteriorated at the factory misapplied parts would have escaped QC.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Hey group,
> 
> Lower speedo cable went out on me today. the ends on it are OK but
the inner 
> wire has come apart and is all twisted up in the sheath.  Too bad I
threw my 
> old one away a couple years ago.
> 
> Every single other part of the speedo system checks out OK (all
parts have 
> been replaced except the lambda counter and gauge w/in the last 4
years).  So, 
> either this part is defective (8000 miles on it) or there is
something else 
> wrong I can't figure out.
> 
> I have the bracket that routes the lower cable installed too. 
Anyone have a 
> pic or drawing of how the cable is supposed to be routed? I'm 99%
sure I had 
> it right. There's pretty much only one way to do it unless you want
the cable 
> all twisted up. I had it go through the inside of the bracket
(through the 
> front of it, as in straight through from the angle drive), then make
kind of an 
> 'S' to the firewall.  
> 
> Any other ideas on what could have happened besides a bad cable?  It
is the 
> newer version (shorter) cable.  I was driving home from work and
heard a 
> clicking sound accompanied by a wild speedo needle. 200 feet later
the speedo died.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 05:16:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Brake Master Cylinder



I usually "bench" bleed after the master cylinder is installed in the
vehicle: run two rubber hoses from the output ports back into the
reservior and activate the pedal until no air bubbles pass through.
Replacement master cylinders often come with disposable plastic barbs
to attach the hoses, but for a dollar or two you can buy honest to
goodness brass ones.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I need to replace my master cylinder. I have the nuts removed that hold 
> it to the brake booster and the lines removed but it won't break free 
> from the booster. Could I get a thin putty knife and try to separate it 
> or is there something else holding it on there? After reading Steve's 
> posts about the brake parts he replaced and the responses he got about 
> bleeding, I thought I could just replace it and hook up the lines and 
> then bleed them. But I saw some posts about bench bleeding the master 
> cylinder. How do I do that? Thanks for any help.
> Mike
> 5623








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 21:38:32 -0800
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: The Second Fiddle Thread


My other car is a Mercedes E320 (1996) that gets treated almost as well 
as the D. The D gets parked in the garage and the Benz has to stay in 
the driveway with our Avalon since the other half of the garage is 
taken up with junk.

The benz doesn't get as frequent oil changes as the D since it only 
calls for that once a year or every 12K miles. Thats right, the 
scheduled oil change is once a year to once every 2 years depending on 
diving habits . The computer figures it out and tells you when you are 
coming up on the service.

I only drive the D once or twice a week since I have it on a collectors 
policy.

Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 00:28:44 -0600
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Front breaks not working


Steve, There is a rubber seal that over the years has somewhat bonded it's
self to the servo booster. Just keep working with it to break it loose.
There are no more bolts.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: basfe25 [mailto:dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 7:54 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Front breaks not working





I already did that with the flex tubes but it won't hurt to try it
again, hopefully that is all that is wrong. When I used the tubes I
fed them back into the reservoir of the master cylinder and pumped the
brakes, maybe next time I'll fill a pan up with brake fluid and place
it beneath the master cylinder with the tubes submerged into it.

To answer the question someone else asked if I replaced the flex
tubes...Yes I did, sorry I failed to mention that :)

The front caliper pistons move very little when the brake pedal is
pressed so I know that there has to be air in there someplace.

Thanks all for the response; I'll let you know what happens when I
give it a try again during the week.


Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
>
>
> I am going to guess that you are not properly bleeding the master
> cylinder before trying to bleed the brake system. Get 2 short tubes
> that screw into the master cylinder and just pump the pedal slowly
> until all the bubbles stop coming out. NOW hook up the brake lines to
> it and bleed the calipers all around again. The booster has NOTHING to
> do with bleeding the brake system.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Been a long time since I posted here but here goes.
> > I am still in the process of restoring my DMC and everything is going
> > smoothly except the front breaks! I installed new/rebuilt calipers all
> >








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 07:57:24 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: Front breaks not working



Hey Steve...

Did you check to see if you have a kink or bent brake line?  Not just
the flex line, but the steel lines as well?

Dave Jacobs

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Been a long time since I posted here but here goes.
> I am still in the process of restoring my DMC and everything is going
> smoothly except the front breaks! I installed new/rebuilt calipers all
> around, replaced all break lines (I did a chassis of restoration) and
> installed a brand new master cylinder. I bled the master cylinder and
> bled all the calipers in sequence to what the repair manual states. My
> rear breaks work when I press my break peddle down but I am able to
> spin the front tires with the break peddle pressed. I've bled the
> front calipers like 30 times, tried a pressure bleeder and Rob Grady
> was kind enough to swap out my master cylinder I purchased from him
> and they still do not work! Is there a magic way to bleed the front
> breaks? I've bled tons of break systems before and NEVER ran into this
> problem! I've also went ahead and swapped out the calipers with
> another set of rebuilt ones and they still do not work. The only break
> system component that I did not replace was the break booster....could
> this be causing my problem? Just to trouble shoot, I disconnected the
> break line going from the master cylinder going to the front breaks
> and put compressed air into the lines and sure enough the breaks
> locked the rotor as they should. This is the only thing that is
> keeping me from test driving it on the road!!!
> 
> My next test, I was going to try to connect the front break lines to
> the rear breaks port on the master cylinder to see if that would
> work....but that required that I bend the tubes and I don't want to
> risk cracking them.
> 
> Thanks in advanced,
> 
> Steve








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 12:37:18 -0000
From: "Edoardo Auteri" <kin_taro_oe_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: the 1st DMC Italian meeting June 2005



The First DeLorean Italian Meeting 
June 24-25-26, 2005 :: Cattolica (Rimini), North Italy

The DeLorean Italian Club (aka CID, Club Italiano DeLorean), with 
the collaboration of Cattolica municipality and the Advertising 
Agency E20, organizes the first DeLorean meeting in Italy. 


We are glad to send you an official invitation.


Event Schedule 

Friday June, 24th 

• 20.00 Teatro della Regina (Queen's Theater) : opening, "BTTF 
backstage" screening, debate 
• 21.00 Teatro della Regina (Queen's Theater) : BTTF trilogy 
showing 


Saturday June, 25th 

• 15.00 Arena della Regina (Queen's Arena) : gadgets selling 
• 15.00 Teatro della Regina : BTTF cartoons screening 
• 16.30 Teatro della Regina : meeting with the Italian voice actors 
• 18.30 Teatro della Regina : John Z. DeLorean tribute, 
documentaries showing 
• 19.30 Teatro della Regina : meeting with the designer mr. 
Giorgetto Giugiaro 
• 21.00 Cattolica centro (Cattolica downtown) : DeLorean cars show 
• 23.00 Piazza I Maggio (1st May Square) : spectacular introducing 
of all DeLorean cars. Surrounding the square, BTTF background musics 
and light effects. Pictures with fans and tourists. Cars procession 
up to the Arena della Regina 


Sunday June, 26th 

• 16.00 Arena della Regina : gadgets selling 
• 17.00 Teatro della Regina : BTTF cartoons screening, bonus extra, 
ect. 
• 19.30 Teatro della Regina : meeting with the Italian voice actors, 
debate 
• 20.30 closing cerimony with thanks & compliments for all 
participants 


Special Guests 

Mr. Giorgetto Giugiaro (DMC-12 designer from Italdesign Turin) 
Mr. Alessandro Rossi (Biff Tannen voice actor) 
Mr. Sandro Acerbo (Marty McFly voice actor) 
Mr. Dario Penne (Doc Emmet L. Brown voice actor) 
Mrs. Annarita Pasanisi (Loraine B. McFly voice actress) 
main Italian press & VIPs


Important note : 

The DeLorean Italian Club did ask and obtain the FULL support of 
UNIVERSAL PICTURES ITALY. 
We will use the copyright for all audio/visual materials 
(advertisements, movies, cartoons, theatre bills, ect…). 

Also the Italian newspaper "IL RESTO DEL CARLINO" (from Bologna) 
will publish a special edition. 

I would like to remind you that we will offer FREE ACCOMODATION for 
foreign visitors.

We expect that many Europeans will drive their own DMC-12 up to 
Italy.

American friends are always welcome (of course we do not ask you to 
come with the cars!).

Everybody, interested in the event, must GUARANTEE own presence. 

We need NAME, SURNAME, PHONE NUMBER, COMPLETE ADDRESS, CAR VIN 
NUMBER, CAR LICENSE PLATE NUMBER for the reservation. 

We will book and pay in advance the hotel rooms. We will reserve a 
parking area for each DMC-12 during the meeting. 

We suggest to come to Italy during Saturday and Sunday, because we 
are afraid that you can get bored on Friday (all movies are dubbed 
in Italian). 

We will send an exhaustive road map and our mobile phone numbers. 

PLEASE do not forget to register yourself. 
http://www.ritornoalfuturo.org/raduno1/regdmc.php 
(All fields are required) 

For further info, do not hesitate to contact me. 
CID_at_dml_OUTATIME.IT
(Please write "DeLorean meeting" as the mail object)

Also refer to the international section on our forum 
http://www.ritornoalfuturo.org/forum/ 

Thanks very much for the kind attention. 
I really hope to see you in the FUTURE!

Edoardo Auteri 
DeLorean Italian Club 
Secretary 
VIN 00788 
www.outatime.it








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 14:25:51 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Brake Master Cylinder



Gently rap on the Master Cylinder on both top and bottom, until it 
comes free. Taping it with a 3lb. sledge works wonders.

Bench bleeding is getting all the air out of the M/C itself, and 
filling it with brake fluid. And you only need to do this, if the M/C 
wasn't already bleed for you. Check with your vendor whom you purchased 
it from, to see if it was, prior to being shipped out to you.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I need to replace my master cylinder. I have the nuts removed that 
hold 
> it to the brake booster and the lines removed but it won't break free 
> from the booster. Could I get a thin putty knife and try to separate 
it 
> or is there something else holding it on there? After reading Steve's 
> posts about the brake parts he replaced and the responses he got 
about 
> bleeding, I thought I could just replace it and hook up the lines and 
> then bleed them. But I saw some posts about bench bleeding the master 
> cylinder. How do I do that? Thanks for any help.
> Mike
> 5623








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 11:01:05 -0400
From: "Cameron, Peter" <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: odd brake noise?


It is late Sat afternoon, I've spent the past couple hours trying to track
down noise coming from what I think is left front wheel region. First I
thought it was speedo cable, and as it is not working anyhow because of a
problem up behind the dash, I disconnected it and tie- wrapped it up out of
the way. I also pulled out the plastic cap with the square hole that covers
the stub axle nut and engages the right angle drive. No change. Can a faulty
angle drive be noisy under these conditions?

The sound is periodic at the wheel rotation frequency, goes away when I turn
right, becomes much louder when I put on the brakes. I think it is something
to do with brake pads dragging, but the sound also has an odd rubbery
characteristic to it, almost like the brake pad has a rubberized insert that
has become disloged and is jamming between the pad and the rotor. I took
both wheels off (just in case some weird acoustic thing was making me think
the problem was on the left when it is actually on the right), spun the
rotors, nothing obvious there, just a slight drag at one point in the
rotation, feeling of the drag just what one would expect for brake pads
skimming a rotor that has some slight runout. Pads look fine, caliper bolts
are tight,..

I googled for 'delorean brake noise', found a hit that suggested a stub axle
nut not fully torqued to 165 ft-lbs causes a periodic break 'squeal'. So I
made the trip down to the local hardware store, picked up a 32mm socket
(.010 bigger than the desired 1-1/4", which was out of stock), and could not
budge the nut while hanging on a 2ft wrench arm, so figure that is not the
problem. Tho I did this only on left side, not right.

This car is my daily driver, and I need it, but don't want to drive it until
I understand what's going on. Any suggestions?

Pete Cameron 
vin 3579 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 16:37:16 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Brake Master Cylinder



I drove a flat head screw driver between the MC and be booster on both
sides of the studs, your MC won't be fused to the booster-you won't
bend or damage anything by doing this. -----Dani B. #5003




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Gently rap on the Master Cylinder on both top and bottom, until it 
> comes free. Taping it with a 3lb. sledge works wonders.
> 
> Bench bleeding is getting all the air out of the M/C itself, and 
> filling it with brake fluid. And you only need to do this, if the M/C 
> wasn't already bleed for you. Check with your vendor whom you purchased 
> it from, to see if it was, prior to being shipped out to you.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > I need to replace my master cylinder. I have the nuts removed that 
> hold 
> > it to the brake booster and the lines removed but it won't break free 
> > from the booster. Could I get a thin putty knife and try to separate 
> it 
> > or is there something else holding it on there? After reading Steve's 
> > posts about the brake parts he replaced and the responses he got 
> about 
> > bleeding, I thought I could just replace it and hook up the lines and 
> > then bleed them. But I saw some posts about bench bleeding the master 
> > cylinder. How do I do that? Thanks for any help.
> > Mike
> > 5623








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 18:18:36 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: The Second Fiddle Thread



Have a '96 Dodge Dakota that sees equal time with the DeLorean now. 
Anyone who is into the car hobby must have a parts runner.

Needs a new bumper though. Drunk driver from last night stopping in 
lane on busy street to holler _at_dml_ girls + me skidding into him = New 
bumper for me & a bent trunk and tweeked rear end for his Taurus. He 
actually got out of the car, with malt liquor spilled all over him. Me? 
I'm fine. But it's not every day that you get to hit a drunk driver, 
and do more damage to their car. Especially when it's permanent to 
them. :)

It's nice to finally have a vehicle other than the DeLorean. Not that I 
don't enjoy driving it. But sometimes, you do indeed want that 
anonymity, and not have to have everyone who pulls up next to you want 
to race. But I still prefer to use my D as a grocery getter. Shallow 
trunk, yes. But nothing rolls around nor flys out.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I love hearing about you guys that actually have your D's as daily 
> drivers.  I'm not there yet, mostly because of a few things left on 
> the to-do list and the periodic desire for anonymity.  I bet that 
more 
> than a few of us fall into this category, and sometimes don't want to 
> be bothered.  My "second fiddle," which is really my commuter and 
> weekend work horse, is a Chevy S-10.  Sometimes you just need to haul 
> crap.
> 
> So what's your second fiddle and why?  Do you treat it like the 
> proverbial red-headed step child?








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 12:01:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The Second Fiddle Thread


I have my Nissan 94 Pickup.  I treat it just as good
as my DeLorean now.  I used to seriously neglect it
until the restoration of my DeLorean.  And guess what,
now I have TWO good vehicles.

Jeremiah 

--- S <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> I love hearing about you guys that actually have
> your D's as daily 
> drivers.  I'm not there yet, mostly because of a few
> things left on 
> the to-do list and the periodic desire for
> anonymity.  I bet that more 
> than a few of us fall into this category, and
> sometimes don't want to 
> be bothered.  My "second fiddle," which is really my
> commuter and 
> weekend work horse, is a Chevy S-10.  Sometimes you
> just need to haul 
> crap.
> 
> So what's your second fiddle and why?  Do you treat
> it like the 
> proverbial red-headed step child?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 


		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Messenger 
Show us what our next emoticon should look like. Join the fun. 
http://www.advision.webevents.yahoo.com/emoticontest





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 14:20:16 -0500
From: Bryan Pearce <bryanp_at_dml_pearce-design.com>
Subject: Re: odd brake noise?


Pete,

What are describing sounds like it might be the wheel bearing.  With 
the car lifted so the tire is not touching the ground, alternate 
pushing on one side and pulling on the other to determine if you can 
feel any movement of the hub on the axle.  Any movement will indicate 
that you have bearing trouble.

Bryan Pearce
Pearce Design Components

On Apr 3, 2005, at 10:01 AM, Cameron, Peter wrote:

>
<snip>
> The sound is periodic at the wheel rotation frequency, goes away when 
> I turn
> right, becomes much louder when I put on the brakes. I think it is 
> something
> to do with brake pads dragging, but the sound also has an odd rubbery
> characteristic to it, almost like the brake pad has a rubberized 
> insert that
> has become disloged and is jamming between the pad and the rotor. I 
> took
> both wheels off (just in case some weird acoustic thing was making me 
> think
> the problem was on the left when it is actually on the right), spun the
> rotors, nothing obvious there, just a slight drag at one point in the
> rotation, feeling of the drag just what one would expect for brake pads
> skimming a rotor that has some slight runout. Pads look fine, caliper 
> bolts
> are tight,..
>
<snip>
> Pete Cameron
> vin 3579






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------