From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2555
Date: Monday, April 04, 2005 9:40 PM


There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Fuse box removal
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. Re: Front breaks not working
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Master cylinder bleeding (was front brakes not working)
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Electrical connectors under "T"panel
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. New tires and Rims - Why didnt i do it sooner!
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

6. Re: Re: The Second Fiddle Thread
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

7. Re: Re: lower speedo cable
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Master cylinder bleeding (was front brakes not working)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Re: Front breaks not working
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

10. Manual trans Cross Gate Cable Adjustment vs the Console "front panel"
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: The Second Fiddle Thread
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Master cylinder bleeding (was front brakes not working)
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Burlwood Dash
From: "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: Burlwood Dash
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

15. Parking Brake Noise
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Caravan to the 2005 Spring Social
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Ze Windshield, eet eeeez cracked!
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Manual trans Cross Gate Cable Adjustment vs the Console "front panel"
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

19. DMA Spring Social - caravans?
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

20. Re: Burlwood Dash
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Headliner Repair
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 16:47:49 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Fuse box removal


Does anyone have good detailed instructions on how to remove the fuse 
box?

The reason i ask is my brake light fuse is melted where the connectors 
attach inside the box. I have had no problems with this fuse since i 
owned the car for 2 years now. I am adding a 3rd brake light and would 
like to fix this melt down on the fuse box with a piggy back fuse 
holder.

Mark V

  






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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 23:08:17 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Front breaks not working



Yes I did, I actually went ahead and made new ones to replace all the
old ones.

I am going to be working on it this weekend coming up, hopefully, so
I'll let everyone know how it turns out. I am just hoping it turns out
to be something as simple as I didn't bleed the master cylinder enough.

Thanks again,

Steve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey Steve...
> 
> Did you check to see if you have a kink or bent brake line?  Not just
> the flex line, but the steel lines as well?
> 
> Dave Jacobs
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi all,
> > 
> > Been a long time since I posted here but here goes.
> > I am still in the process of restoring my DMC and everything is going
> > smoothly except the front breaks! I installed new/rebuilt calipers all
> > around, replaced all break lines (I did a chassis of restoration) and
> > installed a brand new master cylinder. I bled the master cylinder and
> > bled all the calipers in sequence to what the repair manual states. My
> > rear breaks work when I press my break peddle down but I am able to
> > spin the front tires with the break peddle pressed. I've bled the
> > front calipers like 30 times, tried a pressure bleeder and Rob Grady
> > was kind enough to swap out my master cylinder I purchased from him
> > and they still do not work! Is there a magic way to bleed the front
> > breaks? I've bled tons of break systems before and NEVER ran into this
> > problem! I've also went ahead and swapped out the calipers with
> > another set of rebuilt ones and they still do not work. The only break
> > system component that I did not replace was the break booster....could
> > this be causing my problem? Just to trouble shoot, I disconnected the
> > break line going from the master cylinder going to the front breaks
> > and put compressed air into the lines and sure enough the breaks
> > locked the rotor as they should. This is the only thing that is
> > keeping me from test driving it on the road!!!
> > 
> > My next test, I was going to try to connect the front break lines to
> > the rear breaks port on the master cylinder to see if that would
> > work....but that required that I bend the tubes and I don't want to
> > risk cracking them.
> > 
> > Thanks in advanced,
> > 
> > Steve








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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 00:14:16 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Master cylinder bleeding (was front brakes not working)



One more question.....

Every time I've bled a new master cylinder it was always on the car
(found it easier) and the car was always on level ground. While
bleeding the master cylinder on the D, it is mounted in the car (as I
usually do) BUT it is not on level ground. The D is in a sloped
driveway where the nose of the car is higher then the rear. I am
thinking (I could be wrong that's why I am asking) that maybe there is
still air in the MC because of this slope? In other words, the air
bubbles (if any) are not near the ports of the MC but are actually at
the very front of it? I hope I am making sense the way I am describing
it.......

For sanity sake, I think I am just going to pull the MC out of the D,
put it in my bench vice leveled off and bench bleed it that way with
two plastic hoses running from the ports and into the MC again. I've
always hated bleeding the MC this way always fearing that I am going
to slip with the screw driver while pushing in the piston and messing
something up.

Steve









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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 00:22:38 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Electrical connectors under "T"panel



Does anyone know where I could get replacement connectors that are
under the T panel (roof harness)? When I got my car it had the
unfortunate of being one of them that the old door lock module fried
the wires and partially melting the connector in that area. I don't
need OEM ones, no one is going to see them under there. I just need
the same position (I believe they are 10 pos and 8 pos ones) and
either the same or higher rated AMPS. I've already replaced the
driver's side door harness and the melted wires in the roof along with
installing a LockZilla....I just need to replace these connectors now
to make a good solid connection.

I've thought about just wire crimping / soldering them together and
bypass the connector all together but decided against that. I want the
ability to unplug them in case I need to do some troubleshooting.

Steve








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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 21:33:05 -0400
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: New tires and Rims - Why didnt i do it sooner!


After several months of pricing out my options, and debating how I would 
like to get my rims (powder coated) and new tires mounted, I finally 
decided to do a swap out of the rims with PJ Grady and put new tires on 
my car (Michelin Pilot XGT).  I have needed to replace the tires for a 
couple of years, but was taking care of other repairs first.  Why did I 
wait so long!?  These tires are awesome!

The car drives so much nicer now...much smoother, and less noise!  My 
ride back from NY to NJ was so pleasant.  I cant wait until the roads 
dry up from all the rain to really test the handling.

These tires rock, and Rob did an awesome job on the new rims!

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680





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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 19:37:43 -0600
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: The Second Fiddle Thread


My 2nd "car" is a 2003 Chev 2500hd silverado, but now with gas prices
so high, I enjoy driving my Delorean more,  12mpg for the silverado vs
23 mpg avg for the Delorean.   I have to take the silverado for the
ladders as a roofing company business owner, can't even fit a small
foldable ladder in the D.

Rodney
3300

On Apr 3, 2005 12:18 PM, therealdmcvegas <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Have a '96 Dodge Dakota that sees equal time with the DeLorean now.
> Anyone who is into the car hobby must have a parts runner.
> 
> Needs a new bumper though. Drunk driver from last night stopping in
> lane on busy street to holler _at_dml_ girls + me skidding into him = New
> bumper for me & a bent trunk and tweeked rear end for his Taurus. He
> actually got out of the car, with malt liquor spilled all over him. Me?
> I'm fine. But it's not every day that you get to hit a drunk driver,
> and do more damage to their car. Especially when it's permanent to
> them. :)
> 
> It's nice to finally have a vehicle other than the DeLorean. Not that I
> don't enjoy driving it. But sometimes, you do indeed want that
> anonymity, and not have to have everyone who pulls up next to you want
> to race. But I still prefer to use my D as a grocery getter. Shallow
> trunk, yes. But nothing rolls around nor flys out.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
[moderator snip]





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 22:53:17 -0400
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: lower speedo cable


Bill, 
 
Interesting theory but I don't believe it applies in my case. This one is clearly a remanufactured part and is not OEM.  I bought it from a reputable vendor.  From what others are saying, the lifespan of this part is short even if it isn't OEM.
 
Andy 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 05:07:34 -0000
Subject: [DML] Re: lower speedo cable





Which way is it wound -- with primary rotation or against it? When my
angle drive cable did the same thing, I discovered it was wound
AGAINST primary wheel rotation. Am speculating DMC had some made for
intended RHD applications, and one of those made it onto my car. #5939
appears to have spent time off the assembly line anyway (late model
pull straps for example), so it makes sense that as things
deteriorated at the factory misapplied parts would have escaped QC.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Hey group,
> 
> Lower speedo cable went out on me today. the ends on it are OK but
the inner 
> wire has come apart and is all twisted up in the sheath.  Too bad I
threw my 
> old one away a couple years ago.
> 
> Every single other part of the speedo system checks out OK (all
parts have 
> been replaced except the lambda counter and gauge w/in the last 4
years).  So, 
> either this part is defective (8000 miles on it) or there is
something else 
> wrong I can't figure out.
> 
> I have the bracket that routes the lower cable installed too. 
Anyone have a 
> pic or drawing of how the cable is supposed to be routed? I'm 99%
sure I had 
> it right. There's pretty much only one way to do it unless you want
the cable 
> all twisted up. I had it go through the inside of the bracket
(through the 
> front of it, as in straight through from the angle drive), then make
kind of an 
> 'S' to the firewall.  
> 
> Any other ideas on what could have happened besides a bad cable?  It
is the 
> newer version (shorter) cable.  I was driving home from work and
heard a 
> clicking sound accompanied by a wild speedo needle. 200 feet later
the speedo died.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Yahoo! Groups Links



 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 02:56:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder bleeding (was front brakes not working)



If you do bleed the master cylinder off the car you must plug the
outlets till you can get the lines connected. If you don't the brake
fluid will leak out and you will get air in again. I find it much
easier to bleed on-car, that way you use the pedal and not a
screwdriver and you can quickly hook the lines up to it. The angle
should have little effect, it is angled in the car when the car is
level. I like to use small tubes and just point them into the resovoir
so you can usually do it by yourself. Sometimes you run into a
stubborn cylinder that is difficult to bleed. It takes 2 people and
you have to put your finger over the hose when the pedal is released
so it works like a check valve and you can force the air out. When the
bubbles stop  and you get a nice steam out of both hoses you know you
got it. Top off the resovoir and hook up your lines quickly. Now bleed
each caliper. Wipe up any spilled brake fluid aka paint
remover/softener. If you haven't changed the fluid in the clutch now
is a good time so both systems are done at the same time and both will
be good for 2 years.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> One more question.....
> 
> Every time I've bled a new master cylinder it was always on the car
> (found it easier) and the car was always on level ground. While
> bleeding the master cylinder on the D, it is mounted in the car (as I
> usually do) BUT it is not on level ground. The D is in a sloped
> driveway where the nose of the car is higher then the rear. I am
> 








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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 21:05:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Front breaks not working


Steve,

I had this same problem when re-doing the brakes on my newest D which
has been in storage for years and had fluid looking like sludge.

I started disconnecting lines and found out that one of the front flex
lines was clogged.  It was so bad that I could not clear it with 160
psi air.  Swapped out the line and the problem was solved.

Woody


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Make Yahoo! your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs





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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 23:07:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: mike p <cambpd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Manual trans Cross Gate Cable Adjustment vs the Console "front panel"


Hi, I need to check the adjustment of my Delorean's
manual trans cross gate cable adjustment because I
can't get reverse or 5th gear. 

Does anyone know how to gain access to the shift lever
assembly thru the console to check the cross gate
guide plate notch adjustment?  The shop manual says,
remove the screws and lift the rear of the console
verticle trim plate to gain access to the shift lever
assembly and gear shift trim plate.  But in real life
when looking at the console inside the car there is
only the one piece grey plastic "front panel" as it is
called in the parts manual that fits over the gear
shift boot and houses the led clock. When removing the
only two screws in the real of the panel, the panel
does not budge. The shop manual does not sense to me. 


Does anyone know howt remove that panel if it is
supposed to be removed at all to check the cross gate
assmbly adjustment or how do you gain acess to the 
shift lever assembly?

Please help if you can, the car is far too heavy to
push when we need to back up!

Thanks!
Mike
VIN#5781



		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ 





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 09:07:00 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: The Second Fiddle Thread


In a message dated 4/3/05 9:50:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com writes:


> The benz doesn't get as frequent oil changes as the D since it only 
> calls for that once a year or every 12K miles. Thats right, the 
> scheduled oil change is once a year to once every 2 years depending on 
> diving habits . The computer figures it out and tells you when you are 
> coming up on the service.

Off the DeLorean subject, I know, but the drawback to those oil life monitors 
is that it is incapable of detecting contamination due to water, coolant, 
fuel, maple syrup, etc in the oil.  It otherwise has a complex algorithm based on 
RPM's, trip length, engine temperature, shift patterns, etc.  I would suggest 
spending $20 at the halfway mark between oil changes to get a used old 
analysis done just to keep tabs on what is happening with the oil, especially since 
the car is getting up there in age and is off warranty.  Additionally, many 
conventional oils will be sheared out of range by 12,000 miles.  Hopefully you 
are using a quality synthetic?

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 13:35:54 -0000
From: "wayofcain" <wayofcain_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder bleeding (was front brakes not working)



I replaced my master cylinder Sunday (yesterday) so it's all fresh in 
my mind. 

If you have another person help you, bench bleeding was a breeze and 
only took about 5 minutes. Have someone cover both holes on the 
cylinder, press in the plunger on the back with a screwdriver, then 
bleed the front  connector first. Remember to recover the hole before 
releasing the plunger.

After you are satisfied that it is bled, do the rear in the same way.

I took more time in pulling the access panel than I ended up spending 
replacing the master cylinder and bleeding the brakes.

Feel free to email me wayofcain(at)aol.com if you want exact 
directions.

Cain Grimes
002835

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "basfe25" <dmcman73_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> One more question.....
> 
> Every time I've bled a new master cylinder it was always on the car
> (found it easier) and the car was always on level ground. While
> bleeding the master cylinder on the D, it is mounted in the car (as 
I
> usually do) BUT it is not on level ground. The D is in a sloped
> driveway where the nose of the car is higher then the rear. I am
> thinking (I could be wrong that's why I am asking) that maybe there 
is
> still air in the MC because of this slope? In other words, the air
> bubbles (if any) are not near the ports of the MC but are actually 
at
> the very front of it? I hope I am making sense the way I am 
describing
> it.......
> 
> For sanity sake, I think I am just going to pull the MC out of the 
D,
> put it in my bench vice leveled off and bench bleed it that way with
> two plastic hoses running from the ports and into the MC again. I've
> always hated bleeding the MC this way always fearing that I am going
> to slip with the screw driver while pushing in the piston and 
messing
> something up.
> 
> Steve








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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 14:56:42 -0000
From: "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Burlwood Dash



Does anyone know if a burlwood dash kit is made for the Delorean? I 
saw one in the photo gallery that looks great. Any help would be 
appreciated.  Roy








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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 10:29:38 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Burlwood Dash


They were available at one time but i dont think so anymore.

I personally thought the kit looked real nice except for the steering 
wheel piece looked a little gaudy to me.

Mark V



On Apr 4, 2005, at 9:56 AM, lordshill1 wrote:

>
>
>
> Does anyone know if a burlwood dash kit is made for the Delorean? I
> saw one in the photo gallery that looks great. Any help would be
> appreciated.  Roy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 15:54:24 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Parking Brake Noise



Wow, lots of brake discussion lately...
Well here's one about the parking brake.

I had my car parked on an incline (ramps in my garage) for the past
3 days. The front of the car sat about 12"-14" higher than the
rear. Naturally, I pulled the parking brake pretty tight and put
blocks behind the wheels. So today, when I drove the car off the
ramps, the "brake" light in the instrument cluster would not turn
off when I released the parking brake handle, and there is now a
loud squealing noise coming from the rear wheels whenever I turn the
car to the right. (It does not matter if this is forward or
reverse, if the front wheels are turned right and I drive, the
squealing is at its loudest). I tried pulling the brake tight
again and releasing it a few times, all to no avail.

Could this be a problem in the parking brake handle? (confirmed by
the light not going off -- like the handle is not releasing
completely) Or, do I need to attempt some sort of adjustment
similar to what is described here:
http://lukesandel.com/auto/delorean/repair/parkingbrake.html

Or something else altogether. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
-Derek L
VIN 5302









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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 17:15:25 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Caravan to the 2005 Spring Social



Hello,
I am in the Rockville MD area, and was looking for any other owners 
that may be travelling up to the social in Hackettstown, NJ. comming 
from points south and would want to travel in a group (of sorts). If 
nothing else it would provide assistance in the case of an emergency 
(not to put a hex on things). Would leave Sat early, and return Sun 
afternoon after the Englishtown Car show and Swap Meet. Thoughts, 
comments? Thanks.

John








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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 18:16:02 -0000
From: "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Ze Windshield, eet eeeez cracked!



First off, thanks to the replies to the second fiddle thread, I 
enjoyed reading the responses.  You seem like a bunch of guys that 
really love your machines... funny how you can get a strange kinship 
with an object.

Anyway, I was carefully doing my rear brakes, and I let the car back 
down.  When I went around to the front, the windshield had cracked!  
It really p*ssed me off!  :)  

Does this necessarily mean that the frame is officially in bad shape?










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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 13:19:33 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Manual trans Cross Gate Cable Adjustment vs the Console "front panel"



Mike,

Believe it or not, it is as simple as just removing those two screws.  But 
as a fellow club member and I found one afternoon, it can appear to be much 
more difficult.  Near the front of the panel, there are two male "nubs" that 
slide into receptacles on either side of the panel.  On some cars, these 
things are really fused together.  The answer to just use more (gentle!) 
force.  You can probably lift the back of the panel up high enough to pry 
something underneath.  Just be careful not to gouge that expensive clock or 
bend the panel.

After thinking we were stupid for almost an hour, one hard pull was all it 
took to remove it.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


<snip>
> verticle trim plate to gain access to the shift lever
> assembly and gear shift trim plate.  But in real life
> when looking at the console inside the car there is
> only the one piece grey plastic "front panel" as it is
> called in the parts manual that fits over the gear
> shift boot and houses the led clock. When removing the
> only two screws in the real of the panel, the panel
> does not budge. The shop manual does not sense to me.
>
<snip> 






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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 14:43:32 -0400
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: DMA Spring Social - caravans?


I have been contacted by several Delorean owners lately asking if anyone 
is coming from MD, VA, CT, or MA who would like to caravan from those 
areas to the spring social.

If you are from those areas, and plan to attend, contact me directly and 
I can help you hook up with other members if you wish to caravan to the 
spring social.

Thanks

Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680

BTW:  we are now up to 27 Cars registered to attend!





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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 12:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Burlwood Dash


Years ago - Fred Lockett - the DeLorean Pilot.  
Don't think he is still selling "D" stuff, but he
might.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
--- lordshill1 <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if a burlwood dash kit is made for
> the Delorean? I 
> saw one in the photo gallery that looks great. Any
> help would be 
> appreciated.  Roy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 04 Apr 2005 22:44:15 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Headliner Repair



The headliner in my car is the original one and is sagging. I was 
wanting to try to fix it myself before I get DMCH to fix it, so I can 
learn something. I was wanting to put the DMC Logo in the middle of 
it. How do I put the DMC logo in the middle and fix it with 3M spray 
adhesive? 
 Thanks a bunch,
  Josh
   10989









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