From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2556
Date: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 10:00 PM


There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Burlwood Dash
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

2. Re: Parking Brake Noise
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Headliner Repair
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

4. Cat Heat Shield.
From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Hub nut torque...
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

6. Re: Cat Heat Shield.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Ze Windshield, eet eeeez cracked!
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. So, who met my mother at Walgreens in South Florida?
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

10. Re: Burlwood Dash
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Cat Heat Shield.
From: "Steve Auyer" <sauyer_at_dml_twcny.rr.com>

12. Re: Headliner Repair
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Possible to repair these broken studs?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

14. request for st. patty's day photos...
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

15. Re: Possible to repair these broken studs?
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

16. Re: The Second Fiddle Thread
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Headliner Repair
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: Possible to repair these broken studs?
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. RE: JZD in Autoweek
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 20:01:45 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Burlwood Dash


We occasionally see Burlwood Dashes for different british cars at the 
british car show in chicago.   The company claims they can make  
burlwood dash piece for any car.   You just need to supply the dash 
pieces to copy.

BOB






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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 21:41:45 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Parking Brake Noise


In a message dated 4/4/05 7:59:49 PM Central Daylight Time, 
derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> Could this be a problem in the parking brake handle? (confirmed by
> the light not going off -- like the handle is not releasing
> completely) Or, do I need to attempt some sort of adjustment
> similar to what is described here:
> http://lukesandel.com/auto/delorean/repair/parkingbrake.html
> 
> Or something else altogether. Any help is greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> -Derek L
> VIN 5302
> 

Derek,

Try jacking up the back of the car and taking the rear wheels off. The 
problem should be fairly apparent once you see everything.  It probably just needs 
some lubrication and cleaning.  Removing the trailing arm dust shields will 
help quite a bit to see.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 02:11:55 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Headliner Repair


You will need to replace the fabric.  It is a foam backed fabric
that is glued to a backing board.  The foam on your old headliner
fabric has failed and that is why is it sagging.  

What kind of look do you want for the logo?  If you want a 
raised logo, cut the letters out of foam cored project board
and glue them to the headliner before you put the fabric on.
If you want a reverse image, cut out the letters and glue the
the remainder of the board to the headliner, then attach
the new fabric.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> 
> The headliner in my car is the original one and is sagging. I was 
> wanting to try to fix it myself before I get DMCH to fix it, so I can 
> learn something. I was wanting to put the DMC Logo in the middle of 
> it. How do I put the DMC logo in the middle and fix it with 3M spray 
> adhesive? 
> Thanks a bunch, 
> Josh 
> 10989 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 19:45:38 -0700
From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Cat Heat Shield.


While I have the car jacked up for my trailing arm bolt replacement, I figure it is time to do a job I have been avoiding. Replacing the heat shield under the catalytic converter. Previously, I figured I would have to raise the engine up to replace the shield. But looking at it this weekend, it appears that if I raise the engine, the cat would raise with it and thus not give me the room I need. Now it looks like, if I remove the muffler and brackets I might be able to slip the shield in from the end. Am I headed in the right direction?  I hope someone could save me some time on this project.

Thanks
Steve


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 03:47:25 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Hub nut torque...



Can someone tell me what the hub nuts on the front and rear wheels are
supposed to be torqued down to? These are # 108514, for some reason my
book doesn't state what the torque is...Thanks guys -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 04:27:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cat Heat Shield.



To get to the bolts that hold the shield to the motor or to remove the
small strap you really have to remove the cat first. Maybe you just
want to leave the old shield alone for now. To get the cat out you
have to remove the muffler. You will break studs, clamps, and bolts.
Save the job for when you replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. At
that time you will have to remove everything anyway.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> While I have the car jacked up for my trailing arm bolt replacement,
I figure it is time to do a job I have been avoiding. Replacing the
heat shield under the catalytic converter. Previously, I figured I
would have to raise the engine up to replace the shield. But looking
at it this weekend, it appears that if I raise the engine, the cat
would raise with it and thus not give me the room I need. Now it looks
like, if I remove the muffler and brackets I might be able to slip the
shield i [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 04:45:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Ze Windshield, eet eeeez cracked!



Did you jack the car by the crossmember (or some other part of the
frame) or by those little pads cast into the underbody? I don't trust
the official jacking points -- underbody flexes too much (plus that's
a lot of weight to suspend from 24 year old fiberglass).

BTW: my second fiddles range from 21 foot long Lincolns to a F150 with
205,000 miles on the odometer to the same AMC I drove in high school.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> First off, thanks to the replies to the second fiddle thread, I 
> enjoyed reading the responses.  You seem like a bunch of guys that 
> really love your machines... funny how you can get a strange kinship 
> with an object.
> 
> Anyway, I was carefully doing my rear brakes, and I let the car back 
> down.  When I went around to the front, the windshield had cracked!  
> It really p*ssed me off!  :)  
> 
> Does this necessarily mean that the frame is officially in bad shape?








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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 02:31:54 EDT
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: So, who met my mother at Walgreens in South Florida?


Greetings, list!  I lent my mother my car (#1366, black int / 5 spd  manual, 
gas-flapped hood), and apparently, some DeLorean owners saw it parked  out in 
the Walgreens parking lot, and inquired as to its owner down in Marco  Island, 
Florida.  I'm insanely curious as to who this was, and if they're  on the 
DML!  Contact me off list.
 
To answer your question, kind sir, yes.  I will be there _at_dml_ 2006, and  will 
probably end up at Tony's shop tomorrow.   :3


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 11:22:09 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please


Hello

I found a company that is willing to produce replacement mirrors for the 
DeLorean. They can make them in three ways - standard flat, convex 
(panoramic view), or extended edge convex (eliminates the blind spot - this 
kind is found on newer European cars). I was wondering if there would be 
enough interest because they don't really want to bother with making just 
two or three sets. There is also an option of getting a heating pad on the 
back of the glass so the mirror could be heated.
The prices seem attractive in my opinion and they would be about $40 for the 
regular flat. About $75 for the convex and $100 for the extended convex (the 
mirror is just like any other convex mirror except that the outside edge is 
curved more to eliminate the blind spot). The prices are for a set of TWO. 
The heating pads could be added for about $10 for a set.
Would there be enough interest to start negotiating with that company?

Please reply directly to me.

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 10:53 PM
Subject: [DML] Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please


>
>
>
> All.
>
> I would like to be able to buy some anti-glare, anti-blindspot (wide-
> angle) door mirror glass. My 'modern' VW Golf includes the type of
> style I'm after, eliminating the add-on/stick-on mirrors.
>
> I have purchased the standard glass from DMCH and used that to
> produce cardboard templates, unfortunatley I cannot find anyone in
> the UK able/willing to manufacture such an item.
>
> If anyone on the list knows of a company in the US who could produce
> some please could you contact me, offlist if you prefer.
>
> I have tried various search engines, without success.
>
>
>
> Many thanks for you help
>
>
> John Chapelhow
> 'Boeing' : #00737 : UK
>
> chapelhow...at...hotmail...dot...com






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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 09:36:38 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Burlwood Dash


Bob..
 
    What company is it?  What I've seen is more an  overlay on the dash and 
consol.  If I can make a pattern from the dash then  I can make my own out of 
veneer, although I'd rather buy one.  Thanks for  the reply.
 
Roy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 09:35:20 -0400
From: "Steve Auyer" <sauyer_at_dml_twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cat Heat Shield.


It's not that bad a job. You're working in some close quarters, but the heat shield is flexible and not too difficult to 
remove and replace. It took me about an hour to do the job.

Steve

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_comcast.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 10:45 PM
Subject: [DML] Cat Heat Shield.


>
>
> While I have the car jacked up for my trailing arm bolt replacement, I figure it is time to do a job I have been 
> avoiding. Replacing the heat shield under the catalytic converter. Previously, I figured I would have to raise the 
> engine up to replace the shield. But looking at it this weekend, it appears that if I raise the engine, the cat would 
> raise with it and thus not give me the room I need. Now it looks like, if I remove the muffler and brackets I might be 
> able to slip the shield in from the end. Am I headed in the right direction?  I hope someone could save me some time 
> on this project.
>
> Thanks
> Steve
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 







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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 14:44:52 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Headliner Repair



When relpacing the fabric was 3M 90 spray adhesive.  Did mine last 
year and it is not a hard job.

Randal

Tha 3M Guy






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> 
> You will need to replace the fabric.  It is a foam backed fabric
> that is glued to a backing board.  The foam on your old headliner
> fabric has failed and that is why is it sagging.  
> 
> What kind of look do you want for the logo?  If you want a 
> raised logo, cut the letters out of foam cored project board
> and glue them to the headliner before you put the fabric on.
> If you want a reverse image, cut out the letters and glue the
> the remainder of the board to the headliner, then attach
> the new fabric.
> 
> --
> Mike
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message from "Josh Porter" 
<joshp1986_at_dml_y...>: -------------- 
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > The headliner in my car is the original one and is sagging. I was 
> > wanting to try to fix it myself before I get DMCH to fix it, so I 
can 
> > learn something. I was wanting to put the DMC Logo in the middle 
of 
> > it. How do I put the DMC logo in the middle and fix it with 3M 
spray 
> > adhesive? 
> > Thanks a bunch, 
> > Josh 
> > 10989 
> > 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 16:03:04 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Possible to repair these broken studs?



Anyone have any techniques on repairing broken studs on the bottom of
the rear fascia? They are the ones that bolt to the plate on the back
of the frame, theres like 6-7 of them or so. Every single bolt is
broken off save one, the one in the middle is the only one that isn't.
It has been like this since I've owned the car, I'd finally like to
repair it. Thanks -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 12:04:46 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: request for st. patty's day photos...


Hey Guys,

Once again, doing our photo tribute to the St. Patrick's Day parade in 
the spring issue of DCS.  If you have any photos you took, that you'd 
like to submit, please send them to me off list at jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net.

The requirement for print are that the photos be high resolution (300 
dpi).  Digital photos, or scanned pictures in jpg, gif, bmp or tiff 
format work great!  Deadline in this Friday. (4-8-05)

I'll include as many as I can.

Thanks,
Josh
Assistant Editor, DCS Magazine










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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 17:57:04 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Possible to repair these broken studs?



Hi Dani.

I've done this.  Every single stud on my whole car has been replaced.
For the row of studs on the bottom of the fascia, I made a 
1/2"x1/8"steel bracket with holes at the right locations for the studs, 
and put M6 bolts in the holes, and welded them in place.  (you could 
also hold them in with hex nuts.  I glued the bracket to the fascia 
with PC-7 epoxy, with the bolts pointing toward the heatshield.  Before 
gluing, I remove the rectangular backing plates from the original 
studs, which are buried in the fascia material, and wirebrushed out 
every last trace of rust, scuffing the inside of the fascia to make a 
better glue joint.  It worked well.

For the individual studs on the rest of the car, I just made shorter 
litttle 1/2"x1/8" brackets, and followed the same principle.

I think you can actually buy those studs, backing plate and all, from a 
Delorean vendor, making the repair more authentic, if you care.

Rick G.
11472.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Anyone have any techniques on repairing broken studs on the bottom of
> the rear fascia? They are the ones that bolt to the plate on the back
> of the frame, theres like 6-7 of them or so. Every single bolt is
> broken off save one, the one in the middle is the only one that isn't.
> It has been like this since I've owned the car, I'd finally like to
> repair it. Thanks -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 18:06:23 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The Second Fiddle Thread



I have no second fiddle. For me, it's the D or bust.

Dave
#5968


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "S" <theborderisopen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I love hearing about you guys that actually have your D's as daily 
> drivers.  I'm not there yet, mostly because of a few things left on 
> the to-do list and the periodic desire for anonymity.  I bet that 
more 
> than a few of us fall into this category, and sometimes don't want to 
> be bothered.  My "second fiddle," which is really my commuter and 
> weekend work horse, is a Chevy S-10.  Sometimes you just need to haul 
> crap.
> 
> So what's your second fiddle and why?  Do you treat it like the 
> proverbial red-headed step child?








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 20:31:25 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Headliner Repair



Here's the EASY way, if you do other methods, you're just beating 
yourself up. Having helped replace half a dozen DMC headliners, this 
is the easiest method to follow.

#1 simply remove the headliners from the car very carefully, remove 
sunvisors, (cautious of windshield) loosen rear speaker trim. then 
remove the weatherstripping from both upper door seal areas.

Remove the headliners, front part, and rear T section.

Just tear the old cloth off since it is junk anyway, keep some if you 
want to try to match the exact color, but any light grey looks 
excellent.

After the boards have the fabric removed, clean them liberally with a 
dry dobie pad to remove as much old glue as possible, possible 
moistening them to remove more.

If your boards are straight with NO warping then continue. If not you 
may want to soak them liberally in the moist areas and put them in a 
clamp to dry them out flat again. Then stiffen with epoxy resin to 
maintain shape.

Either use stiff cardboard or metal, your choice for the custom DMC 
logo, glue it to the center of the headliner, or wherever you want it. 
The  head to the upholstery shop.

Have them recovered in the shade of grey you want, Usually only about 
$60 since you did the work of removing them from the car. Now 
resinstall them. You will half to carefully trim them to overlap the 
top of the door edges slightly, but NOT enough to touch below where 
the weatherstripping goes. A light 3M glue to hold them up along with 
clothespins for the edges works great. Then after they have set for a 
bit you can remove the pins and snap the weatherstripping back on.

All done, excluding some minor work in between, but that is the jist 
of the job. $60-$70 bucks and your labor. And you got beautiful 
headliners again.

Later,

Joe OBrien

2524,
16634,
&
16851



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> The headliner in my car is the original one and is sagging. I was 
> wanting to try to fix it myself before I get DMCH to fix it, so I 
can 
> learn something. I was wanting to put the DMC Logo in the middle of 
> it. How do I put the DMC logo in the middle and fix it with 3M spray 
> adhesive? 
>  Thanks a bunch,
>   Josh
>    10989








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 15:32:49 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Possible to repair these broken studs?


I never actually had to fix any of these, but couldn't they just be drilled 
out and replaced with pan head screws? If you wanted to retain them in the 
metal plate you could put nuts on them secured with loctite. That would turn 
them into "poor man's" studs. I don't think the height of a nut would be so 
great as to cause any noticeable misalignemnt of the fascia. Of course you 
could also spot weld new studs in there, but that's a lot more work if you 
don't have the equipment.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Possible to repair these broken studs?
>Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 16:03:04 -0000
>
>
>
>
>Anyone have any techniques on repairing broken studs on the bottom of
>the rear fascia? They are the ones that bolt to the plate on the back
>of the frame, theres like 6-7 of them or so. Every single bolt is
>broken off save one, the one in the middle is the only one that isn't.
>It has been like this since I've owned the car, I'd finally like to
>repair it. Thanks -----Dani B. #5003
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 11:23:35 -0700
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome_at_dml_jps.net>
Subject: RE: JZD in Autoweek


I of course don't know what you have been reading David, but everything I
have read about John DeLorean which mentioned his drugs charges has also
said that he was acquitted of those charges.

To publish that someone was arrested or charged with a crime and then not go
on to say what the ultimate disposition was, would be grossly irresponsible
journalism. I can't imagine any editor worth his or her salt that would
allow such a grievous omission to occur.

Can you site any specific examples where that occurred?

Joe Thome
Owner of 6467 

-----Original Message-----
From: Toscano [mailto:toscano2_at_dml_ix.netcom.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2005 6:40 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] JZD in Autoweek



Also in Autoweek, March 28 issue, bottom of page 2, short obituary for JZD.
Though there is no byline, I appreciate that they had the journalistic
integrity to mention his acquittal on the drug charges (many, many things I
have read over the years omit this fact-- as I am sure you all have
noticed).

David C. Toscano
former owner: 1650 and 4337






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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