From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2563
Date: Monday, April 11, 2005 8:00 PM


There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. The Devil's Car
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Re: Found VIN#1776
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: The DeLorean Owners Directory has been updated - with errors
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

5. Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

6. Ebay to sell Johnny Carson Delorean
From: "erjunebug" <erjunebug_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. FL owners-need a favor
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

8. Re: FL owners-need a favor
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

9. RE: The Devil's Car
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: Ebay to sell Johnny Carson Delorean
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

11. Auto Trans governor repaired!
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. Re: The Devil's Car
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

13. Delorean story - the end
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

14. DeLorean needed - Montreal
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

15. Correction -- Spark Plug Gap
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Re: Correction -- Spark Plug Gap
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

17. Ben Byrd started a DeLorean service center in Ft Lauderdale back in 80s
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

18. Dealership Sign Fixup - Need Help!
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

19. Re: Correction -- Spark Plug Gap
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

20. A/C troubles
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

21. Cold Idle Problem
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

22. Re: Dealership Sign Fixup - Need Help!
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:34:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: The Devil's Car


Hey,
    just curious.  Anyone know what became of vin 666?
 LOL
                          Thanks,

                         George D.

Eighty eight miles per hour!!!


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Make Yahoo! your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs





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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 00:41:40 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Found VIN#1776


How has the ignition timing been re-curved?

Martin

Enid/Jeremiah wrote:

>
>For those who are interested:
>http://www.entermyworld.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1093
>
>This DeLorean has a BAE turbo kit installed on it. 
>This isn't an ordinary kit; this engine was torn apart
>and refitted with the proper rods and pistons to
>handle this kind of power.  With the guts of the
>engine rebuilt correctly, a custom exhaust, and of
>course the turbo kit itself - the car is reported to
>put out 250 HP.  This car is at my house right now,
>until the new owner comes back with a trailer to
>safely bring it home.  We drove it the 50 miles back
>to myplace with no problems whatsoever minus a leaking
>clutch cylinder.  This badboy is ncie and boy does it
>move.  I'm going to take a BUNCH of photos when I get
>home today, so the pictures you see there are not the
>only ones that will be up.  Enjoy the new addition of
>a DeLorean with a rebuilt engine that CAN put out some
>nice power.
>
>Jeremiah
>
>  
>






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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 23:59:40 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)



If the spark can jump the plug gap, it certainly can jump the gap
between the cap & rotor. If either is so badly worn that the spark is
going someplace else, usual procedure is to replace them. But to be
honest I've never needed to replace any of my brass insert sets. They
last *MUCH* longer than the aluminum ones. Even the set on my Brown
truck, which has 45,000 miles since its original servicing, still
looks good. As I said in the other post, areas where the rotor sweeps
past are stained green, but they aren't pitted and eaten away the way
aluminum gets.

Ignition module never sees high voltage -- only grounds whatever the
input is. 10+ volts is standard for Ford Duraspark. I figure if Bosch
can't handle that I'll simply throw a Durspark on my DeLorean. The
Pertronix module I converted my 1969 Lincoln engine with (fits inside
the distributor, exactly where the points used to be -- are you paying
attention Rick Gendreau?) recommended full 12+ volts.

Pertronix does advise spiral wound wires for its coils. My 7mm Bosch
set is spiral wound, so perhaps they can withstand high voltage
ignition. (I did run one of those until my Hervey set showed up). Have
no idea what the internal constitution of Hervey's wires is, but if
MSD is willing to use them for its Blaster coil, I'm sure they're up
to Pertronix.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> 
> What you are observing is the "Weakest Link Syndome". The stock
> ignition system is not made for this large increase in voltage. Even
> with the better wires you are not upgrading the cap and rotor. By
> inceasing the gap on the spark plugs you increase the insulation
> breakdown requirements of the entire system. Some of the parts are not
> up to it. You cannot change the gap inside the distributer between the
> cap and the rotor. You also cannot keep the rotor from breaking down
> and grounding on the distributer shaft. You are also increasing the
> current requirements on the ignition ECU. You may get a hotter spark
> but how long will ALL of the components live? BTW increasing the gap
> has the side effect of delaying the spark so you might want to advance
> the timing to compensate. Again, you cannot just change some parts
> without considering ALL of the effects on the entire system. I agree
> with you that the stock ignition system can be improved but you MUST
> do it on a systemwide basis. Just replacing some of the parts is not
> enough. You MUST consider reliability, how long will your improvements
> last and is it worth it compared to "stock"?
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Bill,
> > 
> > Rich A. and I also thought you could use a bigger plug gap with the
> > hotter coils, so I (using an MSD blaster2) gapped mine to 0.031 or so
> > , where the manual says the upper limit is 0.28 normally.  I believe
> > Rich A. also gapped his similarly.  The result was that my car
> > couldn't rev much over 3500 under load.  Rich had better luck, but
> >








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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 00:44:46 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: The DeLorean Owners Directory has been updated - with errors



The new file ending in the letter "a" opens for me with no problem.  
Thanks for fixing it!

-Derek L 
VIN 5302



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
>    Tom and Co..
> 
> The Poland entry was a victim of my new formatting system. The 
country
> and state titles are supposed to all be headlines that generate the
> table of contents. I'm making a bunch of little fixes as they are
> brought to my attention and I'll post revised versions. The 
revision
> number will be listed on page 2. New additions will still have to 
wait
> for the next edition, which I expect will be this fall.
> 
> Ken









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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 00:51:11 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)



Since my name was used, I'll chime in. :)

I totally agree. By over-gapping my plugs, I forced other components 
to bear the electrical load and they wore out -waaaaay- faster than 
I expected. 

I'm running John's silicone wires and all other items are factory 
spec. I've put several thousand miles on the existing setup and my 
wife still crabs at me for outpacing her PT Cruiser during two-car 
trips.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> What you are observing is the "Weakest Link Syndome". The stock
> ignition system is not made for this large increase in voltage. 
Even
> with the better wires you are not upgrading the cap and rotor. By
> inceasing the gap on the spark plugs you increase the insulation
> breakdown requirements of the entire system. Some of the parts are 
not
> up to it. You cannot change the gap inside the distributer between 
the
> cap and the rotor. You also cannot keep the rotor from breaking 
down
> and grounding on the distributer shaft. You are also increasing the
> current requirements on the ignition ECU. You may get a hotter 
spark
> but how long will ALL of the components live? BTW increasing the 
gap
> has the side effect of delaying the spark so you might want to 
advance
> the timing to compensate. Again, you cannot just change some parts
> without considering ALL of the effects on the entire system. I 
agree
> with you that the stock ignition system can be improved but you 
MUST
> do it on a systemwide basis. Just replacing some of the parts is 
not
> enough. You MUST consider reliability, how long will your 
improvements
> last and is it worth it compared to "stock"?
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757









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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 00:55:27 -0000
From: "erjunebug" <erjunebug_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Ebay to sell Johnny Carson Delorean



If anyone wants to see some great photos of the Johnny Carson car 
they can go to www.motorcarportfolio.com   Click on New Arrivals. 
Then click on the Delorean photo to get some great pics.  Apparently 
the car will list on Ebay starting on Monday, April 18th.








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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 19:51:14 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: FL owners-need a favor


Hi FL owners,
        Does anyone know where Homosassa is?  If you are near there, please
contact me.  There is a pickup only auction on ebay that I'd need shipped to
AZ.  If you are available please let me know.

Thanks!

Matthew- AZ-D VP
VIN 16816







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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 00:02:59 -0400
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: FL owners-need a favor


Homosassa is on the West coast North of Tampa. I know we have Florida owners 
in the Tampa area but it looks to be about an hour and a half North of 
there. You could also try the Florida list at 
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/fldmc/

Steve
#2700



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 10:51 PM
Subject: [DML] FL owners-need a favor


>
>
> Hi FL owners,
>        Does anyone know where Homosassa is?  If you are near there, please
> contact me.  There is a pickup only auction on ebay that I'd need shipped 
> to
> AZ.  If you are available please let me know.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matthew- AZ-D VP
> VIN 16816
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 






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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 08:17:49 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: RE: The Devil's Car


According to the VIN Listing
(http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/img/news/n_vinlst.pdf) it was a company car
for B. Byrd . . . who knows what has happened to it since then.

1981 666 Automatic Company Car (B.Byrd)

-----Original Message-----
From: George DeLorean [mailto:phantomoftheopera_gk_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 7:35 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] The Devil's Car



Hey,
    just curious.  Anyone know what became of vin 666?
 LOL
                          Thanks,

                         George D.

Eighty eight miles per hour!!!









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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 15:02:06 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Ebay to sell Johnny Carson Delorean



Seeing as how Carson was a heavy smoker, how does the interior of this 
car smell?

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "erjunebug" <erjunebug_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> 
> If anyone wants to see some great photos of the Johnny Carson car 
> they can go to www.motorcarportfolio.com   Click on New Arrivals. 
> Then click on the Delorean photo to get some great pics.  Apparently 
> the car will list on Ebay starting on Monday, April 18th.








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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 10:27:35 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Auto Trans governor repaired!


I just wanted to say thanks to Mark Hershey and anyone else involved
in all that technical documentation and the photos demonstrating how
to repair the automatic transmission governor computer.  I completed
the repair over the weekend, and driving it afterwards was like
driving a new car.

Thanks again to the whole list... the existance of this resource is
what convinced me I could own this car!

--Greg
#2894





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 10:33:53 -0500
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: The Devil's Car


Ben Byrd went on to run a DeLorean aftermarket company in Ft. Lauderdale,
Florida in the early 80's called Scientific Automotive. I have one of their
old catalogs which lists items like tubo charged engines with forged
pistons, turbo cams, intercoolers along with other stuff we still see sold
by others today. I had him "recurve" a distributor for a turbo installation
I designed for my my car and it came back in it's original configuratioin
with a rubber stop to limit the centrifugal advance. My wife, the non-tech
person, could have done that. Whether that speaks for the overall quality of
his work or not I can't say but somewhere during this time he sent out a
sample tech newsletter with the offer of a subscription to future tech
papers he would regularly publish for, if my memory is correct,  $50. I know
of several who subscribed after which Ben Byrd promptly dissapeared without
any further tech offerings.

Bruce Benson

> According to the VIN Listing
> (http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/img/news/n_vinlst.pdf) it was a company car
> for B. Byrd . . . who knows what has happened to it since then.
>
> 1981 666 Automatic Company Car (B.Byrd)

> Hey,
>     just curious.  Anyone know what became of vin 666?
>  LOL
>                           Thanks,





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 11:19:11 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Delorean story - the end


Kayo

http://www.just-auto.com/features_detail.asp?art=1080&lk=e263

The link to the DeLorean story was for members only.  It cost $100 per 
year to join.   Was there another way to see this?

BOB






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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 11:34:28 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: DeLorean needed - Montreal


HELP!

Needed:  a DeLorean for a film trailer of a television comedy called Diamonds Inn, being shot in Montreal this weekend, April 16. All expenses paid, night at the hotel, a little stipend, as well a copy of the trailer you can use to show off your car..."  If the show is picked up, you may get  "astronomical amounts" for the use of the car.

Please contact:
Daniel Lee
DNM Films Inc.
(o) 514 - 866 - 3664
(c) 514 - 926 - 3634

Too far for me to drive and I would have to take 3 - 4 days off work, so I pass this info to the list..

Marv.
#17707
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 
  ----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.6 - Release Date: 4/11/2005


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 19:22:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Correction -- Spark Plug Gap



Apparently David and Rich are the only people reading my posts because
no one bothered to point out the world's largest typo: my plugs are
gapped .*0*42" -- I do not have half inch plug gaps.

Speaking of which: I went with a church member today to look at a used
Escort. Pulled the plugs to check their condition and was met with at
least 1/8" gap, if not more. Looked good otherwise. Checked the spec
at a parts house: .054". Obviously .028" is not the largest gap possible.

Bill Robertson
#5939









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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 15:12:02 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Correction -- Spark Plug Gap


Bill,

Back in the mid 70s when HEI ignitions first came out, the initial 
spark plug gaps were 0.060.  Some were as high as 0.080.

Unfortunately, when the ignition system get wet in the rain, these cars 
would not start.

A service bulletin came our reducing the gap to 0.045.   I still use 
this range on my 70s cars.

BOB






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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 16:42:45 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Ben Byrd started a DeLorean service center in Ft Lauderdale back in 80s


In a message dated 04/11/2005 10:51:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com writes:
According to the VIN Listing
(http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/img/news/n_vinlst.pdf) it was a company car
for B. Byrd . . . who knows what has happened to it since then.

1981 666 Automatic Company Car (B.Byrd)
Ben Byrd started a DeLorean service center in Ft Lauderdale back in the early 
1980s called Scientific Automotive. I have a few "Scientific DeLorean" 
newsletters that he published for his DeLorean repair shop. Evidently, he was an 
automotive engineer and Mensa member with an IQ over 160.

I guess his Mensa designation didn't help him much as Scientific Automotive 
went bankrupt and the US Government went after him for removing the catalytic 
converters on DeLorean cars.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 20:47:58 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Dealership Sign Fixup - Need Help!



I bought an original wall-mount dealership sign 13' x 3' and I'm
trying to fix it up.  Cosmetically it's beautiful, but it's got all
sorts of issues inside.  The ballast was blown, and all sorts of black
sand/asphalt crap  had oozed out.  I'm not an electrician but I made a
map of which wires went where, and they match up to the new same-model
ballast.  I managed to chip the ooze out today and removed the unit
through the top and side panel.  Yikes.
I'd like to clean out the bottom of the sign, as a light bulb burst
down there and it's a horrid mess, and they tossed the mounting bolts
down there as well.  As if that weren't enough, one of the bulb mounts
became dislodged so it needs to be re-mounted. To anyone else who has
worked on a sign, is there an "easy" way to get to anything?  I looked
into removing the stainless panel but it's pretty well set in there. 
Almost everything is riveted or welded together!
The only other thing I can think of is to set it on its back (it's
250lbs so that's a bit of a challenge) and HOPE I can take the bottom
panel off.  Anyone done this?
Thanks,

-John
DOA since 1994








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 21:12:21 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Correction -- Spark Plug Gap



Yeah, with gaps that big, you might do better with Tesla coils! :)

You can always go bigger. I installed a new MSD Blaster coil, and 
balast resistor. Slightly higher resistance than stock, but works well 
with 0.30 gap, and next level hotter plugs. Very well infact.

-Robert



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Apparently David and Rich are the only people reading my posts because
> no one bothered to point out the world's largest typo: my plugs are
> gapped .*0*42" -- I do not have half inch plug gaps.
> 
> Speaking of which: I went with a church member today to look at a used
> Escort. Pulled the plugs to check their condition and was met with at
> least 1/8" gap, if not more. Looked good otherwise. Checked the spec
> at a parts house: .054". Obviously .028" is not the largest gap 
possible.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939








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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 16:25:57 -0500
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: A/C troubles


The question about the orfice tube reminded me that air conditioning season has come to South Texas this year and will spread to the hibernating North soon.  The A/C problem we hear most about is that the refrigerant has leaked out.  The complaint takes the form of "it's not blowing cold" or "the compressor goes off and on" or "the compressor won't engage".  Without going into a detailed description of the low-side cylcling used to regulate the system, it will suffice to say that all of these symtoms are usually caused by a low refrigerant level.  In the happy days before global warming, we just pumped in another can of Freon, available everywhere for a dollar a pound.  Now R12 costs $50 or more per 12 oz. can and you need a degree and a federal certification to buy it.  Worse, it will run right out the leak we can no longer afford to ignore.  

Many A/C shops pressure owners to retrofit to R-134, the refrigerant that modern cars use.  This holds the promise of cheaper refills but often sidesteps the problem of the leak(s).  No matter which refrigerant is used, if the intake pressure is too low, the compressor will cycle or stay disingaged and the system won't cool.  At DMCH, we do not do the R-134 conversions and we encourage owners who call to stay with R12, despite the cost.  Freon is available and it works better than R-134 in the Delorean.  We emphasize closing the holes and maintaining the components of the system rather than pasting over the problem with constant recharging.

The most common places for the Delorean A/C to leak refrigerant is from the high side hose where it can come into contact with other parts of the car.  The top banjo bolt of the fuel filter has rubbed many a hole in hoses that rest on it unsecured.  Also, the cinch nut on the lower steering u-joint will quickly tear a hole in a hose that's not tied out of the way.  The lesson here is to tie the hose away from objects on the car that may dig or abrade it.  I have seen high side hoses develop pinhole leaks.  The clue was a light film of oil on the hose most of the length of the car.  There are plenty more places for leaks. A sneaky place is the Schraeder valves on the compressor.  The little o-ring that seals the valve will wear out and let the refrigerant out.  When the valves are capped by gauges, the detector won't sound the alarm, but the new charge will leak out when the gauges are removed   A good investment for a dedicated DIYer is an A/C sniffer.  It beeps along until it "smells" refrigerant, then the beep accelerates and raises in pitch.  Very handy. 

Here's a picture of that high side hose.  Part number 100748, $129.89.  http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=242&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
We have the Schraeder valve cores, too. 

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 16:47:16 -0600
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Cold Idle Problem


    Hello list, I was hoping someone could point me in the right 
direction on this. Last year my car started having a small problem 
idling when the engine was cold. It wanted to stay around  500-
600 rpm. After it warmed up it was fine. I went ahead and put a 
new cap,rotor,plugs and wires on it and it still did it. Well, I did 
a quick fix and turned the throttle position in a little bit to raise 
the idle.
 
   Well here it is springtime and I'm ready to get it out again. I started
it up and it still had the cold idle problem but was fine when warm.
I'm ready to fix it for good now. Where should I start? I have a new o2
sensor for it but I can't get the other one out so I'm gonna have a shop 
do it for me plus a new fuel filter. Where else can I start at?   Any help 
would be appreciated. 

   Thanks in advance.............Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 19:30:24 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Dealership Sign Fixup - Need Help!


That black ooze could be PCB laden dielectric material out of the fluorescent ballast. The ballast would normally be labeled with what it contained. This is a vintage where some of the stuff was still around, especially if these signs were imported.
You should handle and dispose of this responsibly.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663




  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: John Spangler<mailto:johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 4:47 PM
  Subject: [DML] Dealership Sign Fixup - Need Help!





  I bought an original wall-mount dealership sign 13' x 3' and I'm
  trying to fix it up.  Cosmetically it's beautiful, but it's got all
  sorts of issues inside.  The ballast was blown, and all sorts of black
  sand/asphalt crap  had oozed out.  I'm not an electrician but I made a
  map of which wires went where, and they match up to the new same-model
  ballast.  I managed to chip the ooze out today and removed the unit
  through the top and side panel.  Yikes.
  I'd like to clean out the bottom of the sign, as a light bulb burst
  down there and it's a horrid mess, and they tossed the mounting bolts
  down there as well.  As if that weren't enough, one of the bulb mounts
  became dislodged so it needs to be re-mounted. To anyone else who has
  worked on a sign, is there an "easy" way to get to anything?  I looked
  into removing the stainless panel but it's pretty well set in there. 
  Almost everything is riveted or welded together!
  The only other thing I can think of is to set it on its back (it's
  250lbs so that's a bit of a challenge) and HOPE I can take the bottom
  panel off.  Anyone done this?
  Thanks,

  -John
  DOA since 1994








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