From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2564
Date: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 3:08 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Ebay to sell Johnny Carson Delorean
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

2. Re: Re: Ebay to sell Johnny Carson Delorean
From: Mike Green <mikedx_at_dml_gmail.com>

3. Griff Car from BTTF2 on ebay.
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>

4. Re: Moisture vs Ignition
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. DMA Spring Social - NICE WEATHER - Lots o' Prizes
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

6. Re: A/C troubles
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

7. Pistons, liners....again, anyone?
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

8. Forged Pistons..
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. RE: Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. RE: Cold Idle Problem
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. RE: Cold Idle Problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. RE: Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. RE: Re: Correction -- Spark Plug Gap
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. HELP PUTTING FIBERGLASS SHELL BACK ON FRAME!!!!
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

16. Cruise control question
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

17. Re: A/C troubles
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. Re: Correction -- Spark Plug Gap
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

19. Re: help! newbie getting horrible gas mileage
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. Re: Cold Idle Problem
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

21. deadline approaches
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

22. Vacuum leak?
From: "jrc2905" <jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com>

23. Any Northern Michigan Owners Out There?
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

24. Re: Griff Car from BTTF2 on ebay.
From: Mike Green <mikedx_at_dml_gmail.com>

25. Re: Griff Car from BTTF2 on ebay.
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 18:24:57 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Ebay to sell Johnny Carson Delorean


I  doubt if there was any tobacco smell.  It broke down on his way home from 
the delivery point and he abandoned it cussing all the way home!!  As I 
understand it THAT was the extent of his having "driven" it and it was never 
licensed in his name.   He dropped half a mil.investment!!
    Murray
    Vin: 05962
    Lic: DMC-XII 






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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 22:56:53 +0100
From: Mike Green <mikedx_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Ebay to sell Johnny Carson Delorean


Well maybe its a unique yellow/brown interior rather than the stock
grey or black!

Mike


On 4/11/05, therealdmcvegas <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Seeing as how Carson was a heavy smoker, how does the interior of this
> car smell?
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "erjunebug" <erjunebug_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > If anyone wants to see some great photos of the Johnny Carson car
> > they can go to www.motorcarportfolio.com   Click on New Arrivals.
> > Then click on the Delorean photo to get some great pics.  Apparently
> > the car will list on Ebay starting on Monday, April 18th.
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
------------------------------------
Mike Green
Software architect





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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 20:27:50 -0400
From: "Jeff Chabotte" <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>
Subject: Griff Car from BTTF2 on ebay.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5572896452

Please pass this along.

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT






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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 01:02:04 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Moisture vs Ignition



Actually it isn't raindrops themselves, but atmospheric moisture.
Condensation too. Is death for HT. I would recommend anyone having a
hard time starting their DeLo on such a morning to remove the
distributor cap and dry things off in there, but K Jetronic manifold
kind of rules that out. One time before my car's initial tuneup I did
reach in there and zap it with a heat gun however (PO promised me a
complete tuneup. I think it was plugs only).

I remember GM's HEI well. That's one reason I stick with Delco plugs
-- was a time that no one else's could hold up (and this is a Ford man
talking). I think the original HEI's were only 30,000 volts or so.
Still astronomical when everyone else was running 10,000-15,000. I've
seen aftermarket coil modules as high as 45,000.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Back in the mid 70s when HEI ignitions first came out, the initial 
> spark plug gaps were 0.060.  Some were as high as 0.080.
> 
> Unfortunately, when the ignition system get wet in the rain, these cars 
> would not start.
> 
> A service bulletin came our reducing the gap to 0.045.   I still use 
> this range on my 70s cars.
> 
> BOB








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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 21:38:06 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: DMA Spring Social - NICE WEATHER - Lots o' Prizes


Well...the extended weather forecast shows that we are all set to have nice
weather for the spring social this weekend!
http://www.weather.com/weather/extended/USNJ0191?par=yahoo
<http://www.weather.com/weather/extended/USNJ0191?par=yahoo&site=www.yahoo.c
om&promo=forecast> &site=www.yahoo.com&promo=forecast
58 Degrees and Partly Cloudy.  Sounds like a REALLY nice day for the spring
social!
 
We have over 35 cars slated to attend, and over 75 people.    We also got
word today that DMC Houston has sent us a huge box of items to raffle off
for the event.  That means that we are going to have over $1400 worth of
prizes to give away at the event!!!   If you have dragged your feet up until
now, there is NO more excuse not to attend.  Almost everyone who does will
walk away with something in hand!  :)
 
Details:  http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/social05.htm
 
Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 21:27:31 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: A/C troubles


In a message dated 4/11/05 6:27:26 PM Central Daylight Time, 
warren_at_dml_usadmc.com writes:


> Also, the cinch nut on the lower steering u-joint will quickly tear a hole 
> in a hose that's not tied out of the way.  The lesson here is to tie the hose 
> away from objects on the car that may dig or abrade it. 

Ah, this reminds me of a problem I had the first year I had my DeLorean.  I 
thought my steering rack was wearing out because as I rotated my steering wheel 
through a turn, it would get easy, then stiff, then easy, then stiff from 
lock to lock.  I was told that a couple teeth were probably wearing out in the 
rack.  Made sense to me.  Then one day I noticed it started getting a little 
more difficult to get out of the stiffer parts during a turn, so I pulled into a 
parking lot to see if I could do anything about it.  As I was turning into the 
parking lot, I tried returning the wheel to neutral after the driveway and 
the wheel was stuck! In a panic I yanked it a couple times and it snapped free 
back to neutral.  When I safely came to a stop, I pulled the access cover out 
of the trunk and found that the A/C hose was resting on top of the steering 
intermediate shaft and the cinch bolt was catching the hose and twisting it 
around!!!

It was so worn that I had to get a new hose spliced in and I ziptied it out 
of the way. No problems since.

This is a good one for new owners to check on and make sure their hose isn't 
where it shouldn't be.  I could have gotten killed if i were taking a 
cloverleaf or something at more than parking lot speeds!

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 00:07:44 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Pistons, liners....again, anyone?



Yes, another pistons and liners post BUT a different question: Does
anyone have a box #102620 of 3 liners, pistons, pins and rings they'd
be willing to sell??? I have 1 box of 3 from factory and just need 1
more box of three completing the engine, but I can't find it without
having to buy all 6. Anyone? -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 17:23:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Forged Pistons..


I have been re-evaluating my transplant project with
the recent discussions about forged pistons in a turbo
PRV engine.

Can anyone supply a source for PRV performance parts,
such as forged pistons?



		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 19:42:36 -0600
From: rodney rael <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please


Hey guys, have any of you contackted Tom on this?    I had a BMW with
the Extended edge convex and it made a HUGE difference in what you
could see behind you   I think $100.00 for custom made extended convex
is a gift.   HOPE

On Apr 5, 2005 3:22 AM, Tom <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> I found a company that is willing to produce replacement mirrors for the
> DeLorean. They can make them in three ways - standard flat, convex
> (panoramic view), or extended edge convex (eliminates the blind spot - this
> kind is found on newer European cars). I was wondering if there would be
> enough interest because they don't really want to bother with making just
> two or three sets. There is also an option of getting a heating pad on the
> back of the glass so the mirror could be heated.
> The prices seem attractive in my opinion and they would be about $40 for the
> regular flat. About $75 for the convex and $100 for the extended convex (the
> mirror is just like any other convex mirror except that the outside edge is
> curved more to eliminate the blind spot). The prices are for a set of TWO.
> The heating pads could be added for about $10 for a set.
> Would there be enough interest to start negotiating with that company?
> 
> Please reply directly to me.
> 
> Tom Niemczewski
> jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
> VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
> Save the dream so you can live the dream...
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 10:53 PM
> Subject: [DML] Wide-angle door mirrors wanted please
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > All.
> >
> > I would like to be able to buy some anti-glare, anti-blindspot (wide-
> > angle) door mirror glass. My 'modern' VW Golf includes the type of
> > style I'm after, eliminating the add-on/stick-on mirrors.
> >
> > I have purchased the standard glass from DMCH and used that to
> > produce cardboard templates, unfortunatley I cannot find anyone in
> > the UK able/willing to manufacture such an item.
> >
> > If anyone on the list knows of a company in the US who could produce
> > some please could you contact me, offlist if you prefer.
> >
> > I have tried various search engines, without success.
> >
> >
> >
> > Many thanks for you help
> >
> >
> > John Chapelhow
> > 'Boeing' : #00737 : UK
> >
> > chapelhow...at...hotmail...dot...com
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 21:24:38 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)


Bill, If the MSD 8.5 wires don't hold up which they will, we can insulate
some clothes hanger wires and use them.They are only about 1 ohm / ft.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net]
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 6:00 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)





If the spark can jump the plug gap, it certainly can jump the gap
between the cap & rotor. If either is so badly worn that the spark is
going someplace else, usual procedure is to replace them. But to be
honest I've never needed to replace any of my brass insert sets. They
last *MUCH* longer than the aluminum ones. Even the set on my Brown
truck, which has 45,000 miles since its original servicing, still
looks good. As I said in the other post, areas where the rotor sweeps
past are stained green, but they aren't pitted and eaten away the way
aluminum gets.

Ignition module never sees high voltage -- only grounds whatever the
input is. 10+ volts is standard for Ford Duraspark. I figure if Bosch
can't handle that I'll simply throw a Durspark on my DeLorean. The
Pertronix module I converted my 1969 Lincoln engine with (fits inside
the distributor, exactly where the points used to be -- are you paying
attention Rick Gendreau?) recommended full 12+ volts.

Pertronix does advise spiral wound wires for its coils. My 7mm Bosch
set is spiral wound, so perhaps they can withstand high voltage
ignition. (I did run one of those until my Hervey set showed up). Have
no idea what the internal constitution of Hervey's wires is, but if
MSD is willing to use them for its Blaster coil, I'm sure they're up
to Pertronix.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
>
>
> What you are observing is the "Weakest Link Syndome". The stock
> ignition system is not made for this large increase in voltage. Even
> with the better wires you are not upgrading the cap and rotor. By
> inceasing the gap on the spark plugs you increase the insulation
> breakdown requirements of the entire system. Some of the parts are not
> up to it. You cannot change the gap inside the distributer between the
> cap and the rotor. You also cannot keep the rotor from breaking down
> and grounding on the distributer shaft. You are also increasing the
> current requirements on the ignition ECU. You may get a hotter spark
> but how long will ALL of the components live? BTW increasing the gap
> has the side effect of delaying the spark so you might want to advance
> the timing to compensate. Again, you cannot just change some parts
> without considering ALL of the effects on the entire system. I agree
> with you that the stock ignition system can be improved but you MUST
> do it on a systemwide basis. Just replacing some of the parts is not
> enough. You MUST consider reliability, how long will your improvements
> last and is it worth it compared to "stock"?
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > Rich A. and I also thought you could use a bigger plug gap with the
> > hotter coils, so I (using an MSD blaster2) gapped mine to 0.031 or so
> > , where the manual says the upper limit is 0.28 normally.  I believe
> > Rich A. also gapped his similarly.  The result was that my car
> > couldn't rev much over 3500 under load.  Rich had better luck, but
> >








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 21:39:00 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Cold Idle Problem


You should start by readjusting the throttle to the proper position. You 
will never fix it if you make "masking" adjustments, although I know you did 
that just to get by with the intention of fixing it properly at this time. 
By turning the throttle adjusting screw you almost certainly reduced the 
amount of vacuum the engine produces. That can affect your braking, among 
other things, so start by getting that set properly.

Next have a look at the idle speed motor and its controls.

>     Hello list, I was hoping someone could point me in the right
>direction on this. Last year my car started having a small problem
>idling when the engine was cold. It wanted to stay around  500-
>600 rpm. After it warmed up it was fine. I went ahead and put a
>new cap,rotor,plugs and wires on it and it still did it. Well, I did
>a quick fix and turned the throttle position in a little bit to raise
>the idle.
>
>    Well here it is springtime and I'm ready to get it out again. I started
>it up and it still had the cold idle problem but was fine when warm.
>I'm ready to fix it for good now. Where should I start? I have a new o2
>sensor for it but I can't get the other one out so I'm gonna have a shop
>do it for me plus a new fuel filter. Where else can I start at?   Any help
>would be appreciated.
>
>    Thanks in advance.............Jason #5903







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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 20:59:00 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Cold Idle Problem


Jason, I would up the idle to about 950 RPM's and be sure to turn in the
screw above it in enough as to turn on or trip the switch to turn on the
idle speed motor. Can you be more specific about the cold idle problem. You
said it cleared up after it warmed up, so that tells me that the fuel
adjustment is to rich or to lean. I would think to lean without more
information.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Jason [mailto:rowejj_at_dml_tds.net]
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2005 4:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Cold Idle Problem




    Hello list, I was hoping someone could point me in the right
direction on this. Last year my car started having a small problem
idling when the engine was cold. It wanted to stay around  500-
600 rpm. After it warmed up it was fine. I went ahead and put a
new cap,rotor,plugs and wires on it and it still did it. Well, I did
a quick fix and turned the throttle position in a little bit to raise
the idle.

   Well here it is springtime and I'm ready to get it out again. I started
it up and it still had the cold idle problem but was fine when warm.
I'm ready to fix it for good now. Where should I start? I have a new o2
sensor for it but I can't get the other one out so I'm gonna have a shop
do it for me plus a new fuel filter. Where else can I start at?   Any help
would be appreciated.

   Thanks in advance.............Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links













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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 21:21:32 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)


Rich, This may be dangerous using my name and DMCH on the same line.:-))

Are the wires working out. If you want to gap the plugs wider then I would
go to the 8.5 mm MSD I build.
John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2005 6:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: DMCH Performance Engine (SpecialT Parts)





Since my name was used, I'll chime in. :)

I totally agree. By over-gapping my plugs, I forced other components
to bear the electrical load and they wore out -waaaaay- faster than
I expected.

I'm running John's silicone wires and all other items are factory
spec. I've put several thousand miles on the existing setup and my
wife still crabs at me for outpacing her PT Cruiser during two-car
trips.

Rich A.
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
wrote:
>
>
> What you are observing is the "Weakest Link Syndome". The stock
> ignition system is not made for this large increase in voltage.
Even
> with the better wires you are not upgrading the cap and rotor. By
> inceasing the gap on the spark plugs you increase the insulation
> breakdown requirements of the entire system. Some of the parts are
not
> up to it. You cannot change the gap inside the distributer between
the
> cap and the rotor. You also cannot keep the rotor from breaking
down
> and grounding on the distributer shaft. You are also increasing the
> current requirements on the ignition ECU. You may get a hotter
spark
> but how long will ALL of the components live? BTW increasing the
gap
> has the side effect of delaying the spark so you might want to
advance
> the timing to compensate. Again, you cannot just change some parts
> without considering ALL of the effects on the entire system. I
agree
> with you that the stock ignition system can be improved but you
MUST
> do it on a systemwide basis. Just replacing some of the parts is
not
> enough. You MUST consider reliability, how long will your
improvements
> last and is it worth it compared to "stock"?
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757









To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links













________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 21:42:02 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Correction -- Spark Plug Gap


Folks with boosted cars should remember that the higher cylinder pressures 
make it more diificult to make a spark jump a gap. In a boosted car, a high 
output coil and the *stock* plug gap is probably the optimum combination.

-Joe Kuchan







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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 03:08:21 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: HELP PUTTING FIBERGLASS SHELL BACK ON FRAME!!!!



Hello All,
I'm looking for at least 4 people ( or as many want to show up just email me ) to 
assist with the reassembly of my fiberglass shell back onto it's frame as I'm done 
with all the clean up & mounting of parts to this point. any one in Michigan or else 
where willing to give me a hand on a saturday or sunday email me & well make a 
barbecue out of it maybe even do it as a tech session for your own info even if 
you've never seen this much frame. Location is  94 & Telegraph 5637 Roosevelt 
Blvd. Dearborn Heights, Michigan I'll post pic's on the photos section under 
vin#915
Thanks, Lawrence
313-506-3786 cell








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 20:05:39 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Cruise control question


So, I installed an Audiovox CCS100 cruise control in my car with the
magnet kit. However, it isn't locking in the speed, I believe due to
an issue with the magnets. The installation said to install 2 magnets
for a front wheel drive car, and 1 for a rear wheel drive. I installed
2 since this is "technically" a FWD setup. Was this correct?

I ran it in "Tach only" mode without the magnet kit and it worked
fine, with the exception that it wouldn't lock in below ~3000rpm (_at_dml_
8000ppm setting). So I put it back to 2000ppm & tach/VSS and stuck the
magnet kit on, but no go...  I'm wondering if I didn't get the pickup
close enough to the magnets.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

-- 
-Ryan





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 03:25:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: A/C troubles



In my experiences with automobile refrigeration systems there is often
too much air movement from belts and fans to use a sniffer
effectively. I like the real simple soapy bubble solution, it helps to
actually SEE the leak. I agree the more common things that leak are
the service valves and the high pressure (discharge) hose. The
compressor seal is also a culprit especially if the car has been
sitting a long period of time. For the service (shrader) valves it is
just good practice to replace them. I also like brass caps, if the
service valves leak the metal caps will stop any leak where the
plastic caps are only to keep dirt out of the service valves. For any
refill you should also check the oil fill on the compressor. Better
yet remove it and put in fresh. Not only is it economically a good
idea to fix leaks, it is the law. Any leak over a certain amount per
year MUST be repaired. Don't forget the mode switch. If it hisses it
probably isn't moving all of the actuaters right so it may cause you
to not have all the cooling you need. When testing your A/C make sure
it is "making water". You should see water coming out from the car
near the front right wheel. This tells you 2 things. One, it is
getting cold and you have good air flow over the condensor and
evaporator coils, and 2 it tells you the drain isn't plugged up. Make
sure the A/C belt is not loose and the idler pulley bearings are not
rough or stuck. During A/C season it is even more important that your
cooling system is in tip-top shape. It has to work a lot harder.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> 
> The question about the orfice tube reminded me that air conditioning
season has come to South Texas this year and will spread to the
hibernating North soon.  The A/C problem we hear most about is that
the refrigerant has leaked out.  The complaint takes the form of "it's
not blowing cold" or "the compressor goes off and on" or "the
compressor won't engage".  Without going into a detailed description
of the low-side cylcling used to regulate the system, it will suffice
to say that all of these symtoms are usually caused by a low
refrigerant level.  In the happy days before global warming, we just
pumped in another can of Freon, available everywhere for a dollar a
pound.  Now R12 costs $50 or more per 12 oz. can and you need a degree
and a federal certification to buy it.  Worse, it will run right out the 








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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 03:37:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Correction -- Spark Plug Gap



You have to remember that with use (mileage) the gap increases. "Back
in the day" the rule of thumb was .001 per 1,000 miles. Plugs seem to
do a whole lot better but they do still wear. When you install the
plugs the manufacurer's recomendation was based on how many miles you
would go between tune-ups. If you open the gap when you first install
the plugs and they wear you will have problems way before the
recomended change interval. What this means is you have to shorten the
change interval as you open the gaps. Not a big issue on a limited use
vehicle. This is one of the reasons on a car with old parts and some
mileage on a damp day it won't start. Between the large gap and the
low breakdown voltage of the old wires you can't get the spark to the
plugs. A higher voltage coil can overcome some of this at the expense
of the wires, distributer cap and rotor. Bigger gaps will also
increase interference on the radio with weak stations.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Yeah, with gaps that big, you might do better with Tesla coils! :)
> 
> You can always go bigger. I installed a new MSD Blaster coil, and 
> balast resistor. Slightly higher resistance than stock, but works well 
>








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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 00:10:49 -0500
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: help! newbie getting horrible gas mileage


I had a similar problem.  If you are still trying to find it, double
check your firing order.  I accidentally swapped two plug wires and
killed the efficiency.  I was surprised afterwards that it was running
as good as it was!

JEff

> On a good week with mostly freeway i get 15-16mpg, on a bad week,
> it's as low as 10-12mpg.
> 
> I have a manual transmission, and the car only has 17K original
> miles.





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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 09:04:58 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Cold Idle Problem


Jason,
check your idle speed motor if it is freezed (rusted) in place, this would
explain why it would idle so low when cold. Also check the connectors to the
idle ECU, idle motor and the connectors at the fire wall.. 

I also thought of a broken temperature sensor, but then still the control
circuit would keep the speed up at 775rpm - if it is able to do its job.

O2 Sensor has definitley nothing to do with it.

Elvis


> 
> 
>     Hello list, I was hoping someone could point me in the right 
> direction on this. Last year my car started having a small problem 
> idling when the engine was cold. It wanted to stay around  500-
> 600 rpm. After it warmed up it was fine. I went ahead and put a 
> new cap,rotor,plugs and wires on it and it still did it. Well, I did 
> a quick fix and turned the throttle position in a little bit to raise 
> the idle.
>  
>    Well here it is springtime and I'm ready to get it out again. I started
> it up and it still had the cold idle problem but was fine when warm.
> I'm ready to fix it for good now. Where should I start? I have a new o2
> sensor for it but I can't get the other one out so I'm gonna have a shop 
> do it for me plus a new fuel filter. Where else can I start at?   Any help
> would be appreciated. 
> 
>    Thanks in advance.............Jason #5903
> 

-- 
Handyrechnung zu hoch? Tipp: SMS und MMS mit GMX
Seien Sie so frei: Alle Infos unter http://www.gmx.net/de/go/freesms





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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 09:44:30 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: deadline approaches


Re: Grand Bend, Ontario - DeLorean Meet
       Saturday, June 18 - Sunday, June 19, 2005

I have just been notified that the special rate offer at the world famous Oakwood Inn expires April 15. Regular rate is $167.00 (CDN). DeLorean meet special rate is $142.00 (CDN =  about $115.00 USA) --- YOU MUST ASK FOR THE DELOREAN RATE.

Rooms are going fast. This will be a fun weekend with surf, sandy beach, sun, bikinis, cold brew, cruise to Bayfield, maybe a tech session if someone wants to chair it, show and shine on the beach, and many, nice people who are part of "the JZD dream".

The location is about 3/4 hour north from Port Huron, Michigan on the sandy eastern shores of Lake Huron. This village explodes with tourists during the summer.

There is no registration fee, but I would like to have a count of people attending, so there will be enough freebies. 

www.grandbend.ca
www.oakwoodinnresort.com

Marv.
#17707
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 
  ----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.7 - Release Date: 4/12/2005


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 13:57:45 -0000
From: "jrc2905" <jrc2905_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Vacuum leak?



After reading posts about cars with suspected vacuum leaks and idle 
problems I just want to mention something I found on my car while 
replacing the water pump. The four bolts that hold the intake manifold 
to the cylinder head where loose to the point where I did not have to 
use a socket wrench on the end of my extension to remove these bolts. 
It will be interesting to see if the engine runs smoother with these 
bolts at the proper torque .








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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 11:35:32 -0400
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Any Northern Michigan Owners Out There?


Hey all,
    I am going to be working up in Northern Michigan for the summer, and I
was wondering if there were any D owners up there that are on the DML?  I
was hoping maybe we could get a few Ds together and head up to the St.
Ignace car show whenever that may be this year.  Or head to any other car
shows for that matter.  I am about 45 minutes south of Mackinaw, and we
could have a tech session or whatnot at my place beforehand if enough people
were interested.

Contact me off list,
PRC1216(at)aol.com
Patrick C.
1880






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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 16:36:30 +0100
From: Mike Green <mikedx_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Griff Car from BTTF2 on ebay.


Hey jeff

ive been keeping an eye on this from the bttfparts.com site and just
gotta say you have done an amazing job!

I hope you raise some serious funds for your charity

Mike
london, england

On 4/12/05, Jeff Chabotte <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5572896452
> 
> Please pass this along.
> 
> -Jeff Chabotte
> Norwich, CT
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
------------------------------------
Mike Green
Software architect





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 15:01:55 -0400
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Griff Car from BTTF2 on ebay.


The auction isn't for the car, it is for a photo and an advertising 
opportunity.

John
4275

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Chabotte <jchabotte_at_dml_adelphia.net>
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 20:27:50 -0400
Subject: [DML] Griff Car from BTTF2 on ebay.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5572896452

Please pass this along.

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Yahoo! Groups Links








   





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
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