From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2569
Date: Thursday, April 14, 2005 12:16 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: clutch fluid levels
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

2. Re: More on idle speeds
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: factoid
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. New Tech Article - Installing a High-tech Mirror
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

5. Re: factoid
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Motor Cars Under the Stars May 2, 2005, 6:00 p.m. Philadelphia PA
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

7. So let's quiet this baby down...
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

8. Saturday Night Live DeLorean spoofs
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

9. Re: Cruise control question
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Not meant to be.
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>

11. Interior colors
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

12. Re: Engine Options.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Frequency Valve not working.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Social - We need a final Count
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>

15. Re: Blown Exhaust Pipe Gaskett off Right Manifold
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: More on idle speeds
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Not meant to be.
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. Re: So let's quiet this baby down...
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

19. Re: Re: Engine Options.
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

20. Re: Re: Cruise control question
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Interior colors
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

22. idle problems
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

23. Re: So let's quiet this baby down...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Re: Engine Options - fuel options
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

25. Re: idle problems
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 21:03:30 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: clutch fluid levels


First buy a reproduction owners manual and the service and workshop 
manuals for the car because if you are asking this question means you 
dont have either.

Second Castrol GT/LMA brake fluid.

Mark V




On Apr 13, 2005, at 7:13 PM, fluxmcfly wrote:

>
>
>
> I need some verification on where the resevoir is for the clutch fluid.
> I'm not sure if it is under the trunk by the gasoline fill spout or
> what type of fluid i should fill it with. thanks bfreyguy_at_dml_aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 02:50:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: More on idle speeds



It's not the firing order -- it's the displacement. Little engines,
circa 1981 at least, simply lack enough inertia to idle at 500-600
RPM. Like you, I love big block lope, but you'll never get it from a
PRV. If you think the thing rocks & rolls at 800 RPM (*THAT'S* the
effect of odd firing), try it at 500-600.

And don't forget that Volvo specified 950 RPM idle, surely for this
very reason.

Soak your throttle and throttle spool return springs with penetrating
oil. Windings need to slide past each other for proper tension.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Indeed, I'm quite used to working on BBF 390s/427s that idle so slow;
> but I just like the idea of adjustability and forgot the engine is
> odd-fire and is limited to how low it can go. It just seemed that it
> was idling a bit higher then it should. Yes, the screws are seated,
> and the butterflies, although still sticking when you release the
> accel; are closing all the way. If I hit the accelerator and let off
> quickly a few times, then it closes all the way as it should. I've
> been playing with distributor/timing adj, and CO-engine still has some
> rock and roll at 800. Idles fine when the butterflies stick open at
> 1500 though...Dani B. #5003
> 









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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 02:53:23 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: factoid



I was just wondering how a crate engine compared to Volvo spec.

My Renault block blows around 170 PSI, so it obviously is 9.5ish:1.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> 
> I can't recall testing a new one.  Bill says that 145 psi a good
number on
> an engine that has been broken in.  It is more important that the
readings
> be nearly the same than what the actual measurement is.
> Warren at DMC
> 
> 
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 2:42 PM
> Subject: [DML] Re: factoid
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > 8.5:1 is B28F spec. DMC may indeed have used slightly different
> > pistons, especially in light of Martin's Renault research. Have you
> > compression tested a crate engine from the factory? Volvo calls for
> > 156 PSI on the B28F. My crate Peugeot block was 160 PSI, so perhaps
> > they used different pistons as well (at least in that application).
> >
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> >
> > >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Warren Wallingford"
<warren_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> > >
> > > The static compression ratio of the stock Delorean engine is 8.8:1.
> > >
> > > This from Page 38 of the Owner's Manual, reprints of which we have
> > for $15.00.
> > >
> > > Warren Wallingford
> > > DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
> > > 15023 Eddie Drive
> > > Humble, Texas 77396 USA
> > >
> > > http://www.delorean.com
> > > 800/USA-DMC1
> > > 281/441-2537
> > > 281/441-2813 Fax
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >








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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 03:52:08 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: New Tech Article - Installing a High-tech Mirror



I recently installed an autodimming mirror with Homelink, Compass, and
Temperature features.  I took photos along the way, and documented the
process.  It's now published in the DMC-News Technical section:

http://dmcnews.com/Techsection/mirror/mirror.html

--Greg
#2894








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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 03:20:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: factoid



According to Volvo:
- B27E 1975-1978, B27F 1976-1979: 5.144mm max lift cylinders 1-3,
5.059mm max lift cylinders 4-6.
- B27E 1979-1980, B28F 1980: 6.004mm max lift both sides.
- B28E 1981-1983, B28F 1981-1983: 5.96mm max lift both sides.

Valves are same diameter, length, and grind both Series all years. At
some point the intake seats were changed to "venturi seat" (multiple
angles towards the stem, I guess to improve air flow).

Valve springs:
- B27E 1975-1978, B27F 1976-1979: 47.2-32.2mm compression length
(0-131 lbs)
- B27E 1979-1980, B28E 1981-1983, B28F 1980-1983: 47.1-30.0
compression length (0-154 lbs)

Swedish and Australian B27 used same valve train as B27F, but with
high compression pistons.

Martin Gutkowski may be able to help you with Renault specs.

Peugeot, anyone?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Bill, What cams are available that would improve the performance of 
> the B28F?  Looking for a source for non-turbo improvement.  Does 
> anyone know the lift and duration of the DMCH cams and a good cam 
> grinder?
> 









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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 00:45:15 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Motor Cars Under the Stars May 2, 2005, 6:00 p.m. Philadelphia PA


Monday, May 2, 2005, 6:00 p.m.
UBS Financial Services Presents Motor Cars Under the Stars with Dalí to 
benefit United Cerebral Palsy. Spring is in the air and beauty abounds on the 
Parkway. It is the perfect landscape for one of Philadelphia's premier outdoor 
automobile events. On Monday, May 2, 2005 Motor Cars Under the Stars with Dalí 
will take place at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Featuring 24 rare, collector 
automobiles along with eight modern day classics from Jaguar & Land Rover on 
the East Terrace of the art museum, as well as a private showing of the only 
American exhibition of the Salvador Dalí * centennial retrospective, this early 
spring, evening event has something for everyone. Presented by UBS Financial 
Services and sponsored by the Jaguar & Land Rover dealers of the Delaware 
Valley, the affair also offers guests hors d'oeuvres and drinks passed on the East 
Terrace, open bar and an array of sumptuous gourmet food stations in the 
museum's Great Stair Hall. 
Tickets are $250 per person. For ticket information & volunteer opportunities 
contact:  Willa Kravitz at (215)248-7609 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 01:07:06 EDT
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: So let's quiet this baby down...


I've made the decision.  I'd like to install a great sound system  in my car. 
 All the mods I perform, I would like to keep 100%  reversible.
 
However, if I do indeed install that CD player, with the car in its present  
condition... I won't get too much enjoyment out of it!  Why?  Too darn  loud!
 
So right now, I'm fishing around for ideas to reduce the overall noise of  
the DeLorean.  Engine noise, road noise, wind noise... all of it.  A  few ideas 
have been suggested to me, including caulking the rear window (early  VIN, 
#1366), installing Dynamat panels to just about every aspect of the car,  and 
replacing the door seals.  This sounds like the direction I'd really  like to 
head in, but I was wondering if there was anything else beyond that  anyone could 
recommend?  I'm just looking to reduce noise, period.   Oh, someone did also 
mention the rubber boot near the console, below the shifter  that apparently 
helps block out a lot of wind noise coming up through the  frame.  If mine's 
missing, any idea who's got 'em?  And what part  number would that be anyway?  
An odd question, I know, but are there any  particular tires that fit the 
DeLorean that are quieter than others?  
 
All general ideas of reducing overall noise  welcome!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 01:56:15 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Saturday Night Live DeLorean spoofs



A friend of mine sent me the SNL tapes that have a DeLorean reference. There 
were three spoofs. I'll describe the October 23, 1982, broadcast. The other 
two were BTTF spoofs about Ronald Reagan from 1986, and the second BTTF spoof 
was from 1991 with Michael J. Fox.

This was the first scene after the opening monologue by Howard Hessman and 
first TV commercial.

The scene opens with Howard Hessman (WKRP in Cincinnati's Dr. Johnny Feel 
Good) as Duncan the DeLorean family butler making pancakes in the DeLoreans NYC 
penthouse. He is wearing a Tuxedo, cooking breakfast in the kitchen.  He knocks 
over a box of Bisquick and starts to sweep it up, dumping the spilled 
Bisquick into the garbage can

DeLorean played by Brad Hall, enters the kitchen wearing a dark suit, 
carrying an empty suitcase. Duncan says "Good Morning Mr. DeLorean."  DeLorean 
ignores him. DeLorean sets the suit case on the table and gets very upset when he 
realizes that Duncan spilled the Bisquick. Duncan offers him some pancakes for 
breakfast. DeLorean digs in the trash can after the Bisquick and Duncan tells 
DeLorean "it's just Bisquick Sir"

DeLorean starts to open the kitchen cabinets and takes out bags of sugar and 
boxes of Bisquick. He packs the suitcase with bags of sugar and boxes of 
Bisquick, explains how expensive Bisquick and sugar are these days.

DeLorean, now upset, sends Duncan to make sure his luggage and his limo are 
ready. He starts to finish packing his suitcase when the service door bell 
rings.

DeLorean answers the door and it's Dave the Drycleaner played by Eddie Murphy 
delivering DeLoreans dry-cleaning. DeLorean is smoozing with Dave, has his 
arm wrapped around his shoulder, and wants him to give him the dry-cleaning for 
free. DeLorean explains how he is short on cash and can't pay the $13.50 
dry-cleaning bill for 48 hours. 

Dave wants the $13.50, DeLorean can't pay, so DeLorean offers him a new 
silver DeLorean. Dave says he has a silver DeLorean. DeLorean offers him an 
electric blue DeLorean. ((Eddie Murphy drove an electric blue Excalibur in 1982)) 
Dave says "Mr.D you already gave me 5 DeLorean cars last week cause you couldn't 
pay. Look man, your cars suck, they don't sell, they don't work right, and 
nobody wants them."  

DeLorean reaches for a box of Bisquick and offers it as payment to Dave for 
the dry-cleaning. Dave says" What the hell am I going to do with Bisquick?" 
DeLorean winks at him and says "It's really, really good Bisquick 
Dave...understand?" 

Dave gets upset and takes the dry-cleaning with him as he leaves.

Duncan reenters the kitchen, tells DeLorean the limo and luggage are ready. 
DeLorean tells Duncan how much he hates airline food, and says he wants to eat 
the pancakes on the airplane. DeLorean grabs a handful of pancakes, takes a 
large scale from the cabinet and weighs the pancakes. "I love your special 
pancakes Duncan." Duncan asks why he is weighing the pancakes. DeLorean explains 
how the airlines charge for heavy suitcases.  DeLorean gives up weighing them 
and dumps the food & scale into the suitcase.

Christina played by Julia Luis-Dryfess, enters wearing a nightgown. (Her 
character isn't the brightest candle on the cake...she is dumb)  She and DeLorean 
kiss good morning and hug. Christina asks DeLorean if his business trip will 
save DeLorean Motors.  DeLorean goes on about how he went to the House of 
Commons and wanted money, the IRA, Ireland, all gave him so much money, and how his 
special financing plan will "blow everyone away & get everyone talking".  
Christina say "John you are so smart honey. You can sell snow to the Eskimos" 
DeLorean gives her an astonished look.

She asks DeLorean why he is packing up all of the sugar and bisquick. 
DeLorean say "you know how much I like to bake" 

He thinks she is asking to many questions and sends her to see if there is 
any leftover Tuna salad from last nights dinner. When she looks into the 
refrigerator, DeLorean starts packing 40 lb. bas of bisquick into his 
suitcase...spilling it everywhere as white powder fills the air. When she tells him there 
isn't any Tuna Salad he send her to get his tennis racquet. He resumes packing 
the 40lbs bags of bisquick making a mess.

Christina brings the tennis racquet and puts it in his suitcase. She look 
upset as she looks over the suitcase overfilled with bags of sugar, bisqucik, 
etc.  DeLorean say he is going to get his topcoat and Christina says "John I know 
what your doing. You can't fool me or anyone else. You can't keep going like 
this. You are going to get diabetes. Admit it, you are a sugar addict!"  
DeLorean says "I knew I couldn't fool you Christina." DeLorean and Christina hug as 
white powder fills the air as her hand pats him on the back.

I thought it was funny considering it was SNL

Regards,
Mike Pack


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 22:59:02 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cruise control question


On 4/13/05, DOCTORDHD_at_dml_aol.com <DOCTORDHD_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
>
> The reading of the ohm meter has to be done with respect to what range it is
> set at.  I doubt your meter is reading 0.489 ohms.  I'd guess it may be 489
> ohms, which may actually be normal.  To confirm this you'll have to check
> the specs with the manufacturer or compare with another coil.  Of course you
> must make sure that you disconnect the coil from its circuit prior to taking
> your reading as the circuit itself may affect the reading. 

Yep, I took the reading with the coil disconnected. I must have had
the range setting on my meter wrong - changing the range just moves
the decimal point in most cases, so 489 was probably accurate.

I fixed it, though, and it wasn't the coil. I found another CCS100 kit
at a local auto supply store that had been opened & returned. Took a
reading on that coil and it was also in the mid 400 range. So I
decided to check & recheck everything. All of my electrical work was
fine, my magnet installation was fine, but after testing with a vaccum
gauge I found it wasn't getting the necessary vacuum. I fixed that and
everything works great now.

Thanks for the help! Other than the hassle over a dumb problem that
was my fault, this was a very simple installation. I could install
this kit in an hour tops the next time around. Cruise control for
under $100. Can't beat that with a stick.

If there's enough interest, I'd be willing to write up the
installation procedures on this unit along with pictures so others can
repeat it.... email me and let me know.

-Ryan





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 12:29:03 -0000
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>
Subject: Not meant to be.



Last year I was going to the Mid Atlantic Social when my car's 
alternator decieded to go.  Got it in, along with a nes battery, and 
she worked.

This year she had started acting up when I took her out for a spin a 
month or so ago when we had a couple of nice days.  The lights 
dimmed, she ran rough cold, or hot.  I thought it's probably a ground 
issue.  Just before starting any work I gave her a short drive just 
to check things out, and the voltmeter showed about 6 volts and ran 
really bad - so I got to check ground from the battery to fram, to 
motor mount, I even added a strap from the alternator to the motor 
mount.

When I started the car, the voltmeter still showed 6 volts or so and 
was running rough.  I though maybe it was the gas - it was a month or 
so old, but when I was about to exit my driveway she died!

I made sure there was enough gas, it sounds like the fuel pump is 
ticking away - the PO had changed it prior to my picking her up, and 
it sounds like the FV is going also.  She cranks, but does not turn 
over.


I'm going to check out the injectors to see if they spray, and at the 
spark plugs.  Is ther anything else I could look into - other than 
everything?  I'm somewhat frustrated I can't make it Saturday - and 
am hopeful that something will work so that I could!

Thanks in advance
Luis & 3723








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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 08:49:31 -0400
From: S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Interior colors


    If I am reading the parts book correctly, the interior colors should 
be black carpet for cars with black seats and dash and grey carpet for 
gray seats and dash.  
    I am the third owner of vin 1089, it has black seats and dash and 
grey carpet. Every piece of carpet is grey, even the carpet on the 
doors. I have reason to believe it is all orignal. Now that I am in need 
for new carpet is the reason for this post. Which color is correct, what 
would you do? Are there others out there that have this mix up?

Steve








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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 13:37:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Options.



Don't worry about the octane. You will set the timing to make it work.
The big problem in converting is you are going to have to remove the
entire fuel injection system. You will have to find a vaporizing
carburator that you can adapt and you will need a vaporizor/pressure
regulator in the cooling system to feed it. The other big problem is
where to put the storage tank. The obvious place is where the gas tank
is but then you will have to extend the fill valves so you can reach
it. You will also have to figure you will not get the range or mileage
you can get with the equivelant amount of gasoline. I would not know
how you could make it "dual fuel" so you can run gasoline OR Natural
gas. In this case if it is ONLY natural gas, if you run out you are
dead, most stations (at least in the US) do not sell natural gas so
you may be severly limiting yourself. Natural gas does not like cold
weather, how cold does it get in Poland? One BIG advantage natural gas
and propane has (at least in the US) is that there is NO road tax on
it which makes it MUCH cheaper. Just tell them you are filling your
tank for the gas grill if they ask!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> Hi
> 
> Speaking on related subject. Can anyone help me out with making the
PRV run 
> on 120 octane fuel?
> Little explanation - I want to convert my DeLorean to run on natural
gas 
> which is rated at 120 octane. Why on earth do I want to do that you m








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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 14:00:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Frequency Valve not working.



If the frequency valve is not buzzing you check all the simple stuff
first like plug connections, grounds, etc. If that doesn't get it to
buzz the next step is to see if the Lambda ECU is getting power. If
there is no power it usually will turn out that Lambda relay is bad.
Even if you hear it click the contacts inside may be bad. Another
possablity is the RPM relay. Not only does it control the fuel pump,
it powers the Lambda too. There are other things that can prevent the
Lambda from working so a wiring diagrhram is very useful along with
some test equipment. When the Lambda isn't running the motor will idle
badly and run like cr-p.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> FV should run all the time I was told when my FV went out-a little
> cleaning of that ground wire on the back pass corner of the intake
> (its not on the bottom where it bolts to the block, it is on the top
> part), and it runs again...kinda..lol My FV is no good anymore and
> still runs on and off, but the ground is what you should check out and
> clean. -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 10:00:32 -0400
From: Delorean Mid-Altantic Club <clubevents_at_dml_deloreanmidatlantic.com>
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Spring Social - We need a final Count


The club needs to get a final headcount to the lunch caterer and restaurant
by tomorrow afternoon.  If you plan on attending the spring social, we urge
you to please register via our website no later then tonight/tomorrow
morning.   
 
If you plan to attend we need to know how many people you will have for
lunch and dinner
 
Please..please..PLEASE let us know ASAP.
 
If you plan to pay in cash on Saturday, let us know that you are coming by
sending an e-mail with a headcount for lunch and dinner to
springsocial(at)deloreanmidatlantic.com ASAP!
 
Also:  PJ Grady will have small parts and accessories available for sale. If
you need anything, please call them in advance (remember...small parts and
accessories...they can't bring doors, fenders, seats, etc...  ;)  )
 
Thank you
 
Delorean Mid-Atlantic Club
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 14:16:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Blown Exhaust Pipe Gaskett off Right Manifold



Just remove everything, lay it out on the floor, and "go to town" on
it. Trying to do this kind of work with the parts still in the car is
extremely difficult and you do it only if you have to, like a stud on
the cylinder head, if you can get at it reasonable well enough to do
it accurately. From my experience the only thing that works
consistantly is an acetalyne torch. If you can get at the parts
without melting everything nearby, you heat the part up to cherry red
and remove it while it is still hot. Every other technique runs a very
high risk of breaking all the fasteners. I HATE EXHAUST WORK! It is
always dirty, hot, and messy. Parts are hard to get to and you wind up
having to replace most everything. Use Never-Seize on all the threaded
fasteners when reassembling so it will come apart for the next guy (it
may be YOU). The vendors sell better studs, nuts, and gaskets than the
origional stuff so ask them for it. For the right side exhaust
manifold you get a lot more room to work if you remove the starter and
alternator. You will probably need a new heat stove too. It is that
cover over the manifold to heat the air for the air intake when cold.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cambpd" <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Does anyone have experience replacing the exhaust crossover pipe
> gasket off the right exhaust manifold?  I tried soaking in penetrating
> oil, heating, and finally tried drilling out the studs connecting the
> 








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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 14:23:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: More on idle speeds



There are a lot of reasons the idle speed is set where it is. Some are
related to smoothness of the motor when idling, some are emissions
related, and a BIG reason is so when you shift into gear you don't
always stall out the motor. On an automatic it is affected by the
"creep" of the torque convertor. BTW that is another weird point. The
idle spec for the automatic AND the 5-speed is the same. Very strange.
On just about every other kind of car I can think of there is ALWAYS a
different idle spec for the auto idle (usually a little faster). You
will find the idle is also always below the point at which the
mechanical advance starts to come in for the ignition.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> It's not the firing order -- it's the displacement. Little engines,
> circa 1981 at least, simply lack enough inertia to idle at 500-600
> RPM. Like you, I love big block lope, but you'll never get it from a
> PRV. If you think the thing rocks & rolls at 800 RPM (*THAT'S* the
> effect of odd firing), try it at 500-600.
> 
> And don't forget that Volvo specified 950 RPM idle, surely for this
> very reason.
> 
>








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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 15:10:01 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Not meant to be.



Disconnect battery, and take the wire off the alternator and clean it
so it's nice and shiny,  then make sure when you put it back on it is
tight and making a good connection. It seems your car isn't getting
enough electrical power, doesn't seem like it's gas or anything like
that. If your volts are reading 6, then its alternator/connections. If
you run the car, put a volt meter across the battery terminals and see
what it's reading. Also, DISCONNECT your battery and clean up the
connectors on the starter, and the ones near the coil. Near the coil,
there is a connection going into the bulkhead-made up of numerous
brown wires-take it off and clean it up. I wish you luck! -----Dani B.
#5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_N...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Last year I was going to the Mid Atlantic Social when my car's 
> alternator decieded to go.  Got it in, along with a nes battery, and 
> she worked.
> 
> This year she had started acting up when I took her out for a spin a 
> month or so ago when we had a couple of nice days.  The lights 
> dimmed, she ran rough cold, or hot.  I thought it's probably a ground 
> issue.  Just before starting any work I gave her a short drive just 
> to check things out, and the voltmeter showed about 6 volts and ran 
> really bad - so I got to check ground from the battery to fram, to 
> motor mount, I even added a strap from the alternator to the motor 
> mount.
> 
> When I started the car, the voltmeter still showed 6 volts or so and 
> was running rough.  I though maybe it was the gas - it was a month or 
> so old, but when I was about to exit my driveway she died!
> 
> I made sure there was enough gas, it sounds like the fuel pump is 
> ticking away - the PO had changed it prior to my picking her up, and 
> it sounds like the FV is going also.  She cranks, but does not turn 
> over.
> 
> 
> I'm going to check out the injectors to see if they spray, and at the 



> spark plugs.  Is ther anything else I could look into - other than 
> everything?  I'm somewhat frustrated I can't make it Saturday - and 
> am hopeful that something will work so that I could!
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Luis & 3723








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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 11:10:45 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: So let's quiet this baby down...


N.B.  The following is wild-ass speculation:

The biggest challenge in producing a quiet DeLorean is the fact that 
the engine is sitting 12 inches behind your ears.  Sound deadening 
material is only going to help so much.  So here's a thought:

The 2005 Honda Odyssey uses active sound deadening to quiet the engine 
noise caused by the variable-cylinder engine scheme that this vehicle 
uses. This works basically the same way as those expensive Bose 
headphones:  A microphone picks up the ambient noise coming from the 
engine, a processor generates the exact opposite waveform and feeds 
this "negative noise" into the stereo system.  The two waveforms meet 
and cancel each other out.  Works pretty well (I took a test drive on 
an Odyssey that wasn't prepped yet and had no power to the 
stereo--didn't show well).

So, maybe one could buy a pair of Bose noise-canceling headphones, 
position one of them in the firewall somewhere so that it's microphone 
picks up the engine noise, and feed the output into your fancy new 
sound system.

Probably a long shot, but would be fun to try.


On Apr 14, 2005, at 1:07 AM, ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> So right now, I'm fishing around for ideas to reduce the overall noise 
> of
> the DeLorean.  Engine noise, road noise, wind noise... all of it.  A  
> few ideas
> have been suggested to me, including caulking the rear window (early  
> VIN,
> #1366), installing Dynamat panels to just about every aspect of the 
> car,  and
> replacing the door seals.  This sounds like the direction I'd really  
> like to
> head in, but I was wondering if there was anything else beyond that  
> anyone could
> recommend?  I'm just looking to reduce noise, period.   Oh, someone 
> did also
> mention the rubber boot near the console, below the shifter  that 
> apparently
> helps block out a lot of wind noise coming up through the  frame.  If 
> mine's
> missing, any idea who's got 'em?  And what part  number would that be 
> anyway?
> An odd question, I know, but are there any  particular tires that fit 
> the
> DeLorean that are quieter than others?
--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703






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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 10:31:24 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Options.


David,

One of the reason the D owner in Poland is asking about NG conversion 
is that it is very common in Poland. Over 50% the cars have now been 
converted to NG.

Poland has a direct source to inexpensive NG from Russia.   In fact, 
Russia is now supplying 25% of the NG to the EU.

Gee, the EU has thumbed it nose at OPEC.  While the US continues to 
kiss OPEC a....


Convert that D to NG.   Go for it.


BOB






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 11:56:26 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Cruise control question


Ryan... An installation manual would be terrific.  I'd like to put a  cruise 
control in mine also.  Please include the model number of the unit  and where 
purchased.  Thanks
 
Roy VIN# 0893


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 15:12:46 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Interior colors


My car (#2135) has black seats with dark grey carpeting all around.
I don't recall seeing a car with black carpets.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from S E Ableman <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> If I am reading the parts book correctly, the interior colors should 
> be black carpet for cars with black seats and dash and grey carpet for 
> gray seats and dash. 
> I am the third owner of vin 1089, it has black seats and dash and 
> grey carpet. Every piece of carpet is grey, even the carpet on the 
> doors. I have reason to believe it is all orignal. Now that I am in need 
> for new carpet is the reason for this post. Which color is correct, what 
> would you do? Are there others out there that have this mix up? 
> 
> Steve 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 12:03:30 -0500
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: idle problems


The flurry of talk lately about idle control problems, especially unwanted high idle, mirrors calls we get for help from people working on their cars.  The following is a functional approach to isolating problems that result in a high idle.

Idle speed in a Delorean is electronically controlled.  When everything is working correctly, the engine will idle at 775 rpm regardless of load or temperature.  The conditions that result in a closed-loop, regulated idle are:
1) Closed throttle plates
2) Operated; ie, 'clicked', idle microswitch
3)  A sealed intake-no vacuum leaks
4) Functional Idle Control Motor, Idle ECU, and Vacuum Solenoid

To insure that the butterflies are closed, check for mechanical binds or maladjustments in the linkage.  Disconnect the bar between the throttle spool and the lever on the throttle shaft.  If this fixes the idle, readjust the length of the cable or the bar.

With the plate closing properly, adjust the screws on the lever so that the microswitch operates just as the plates close.  Use the other screw to provide a positive stop for the lever.  The microswitch does two things: It signals the idle ECU to go to work and, using the vacuum solenoid, takes the vacuum away from the distributor.  You can check this manually at the distributor diaphram.  

To check the idle motor, grab it with the key on.  If it's vibrating, generally it's OK or will be. Spray some WD-40 into the throat and give it a couple of firm raps with the tuning hammer. If it's not humming, check the connection on top.  Peel back the boot to see that none of the little connectors have backed up into the boot.  If by this time, the motor doesn't respond, you're in for an idle ECU.  Also, there is a temp sensor that tells the ECU to let more air in when the engine is cold-the Contant Idle Switch or Thermister.  These go bad in a characteristic way.  The engine will idle fine until it warms up, then as the engine warms, will rev higher until it settles into a 2000-2500 rpm idle.  The thermister is located in the coolant distrubution pipe under the intake manifold.  It cannot be unplugged or overridden exept by disabling the ECU.  This failure is very irritating.

After all this, if the idle won't be controlled, there is surely extra air coming from somewhere.  Find it.

Pictures for the idle motor, ECU, Solenoid and Thermister are behind the links.

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=801&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=1776&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=362&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=795&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 17:25:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: So let's quiet this baby down...



Dyna-Mat adds a lot of weight to the car so I would use it sparingly.
Before adding things to the car first make sure it is in good
condition. This means no exhaust leaks, good door seals, the rear
glass is sealed all around, especially along the bottom, all
holes,openings, and penatrations are sealed on the firewall in the
rear and the bulkhead in front. The headliner is more than for good
looks, it too, absorbs some sound. Things loose and rattling or
rolling around adds to the sounds so fix rattles, squeaks, etc. Loose
items in the trunk and the cargo shelf should be secured. Better
speakers will help, less distortion so you can hear more clearly at
lower volume levels. In the end the Delorean, by today's standards, is
a noisy car. BTW a lot of road noise can be generated by tires. When I
changed to the Michelin XLT's the car rides a lot quieter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_M...> wrote:
> 
> N.B.  The following is wild-ass speculation:
> 
> The biggest challenge in producing a quiet DeLorean is the fact that 









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 19:17:00 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Options - fuel options


Hi Bob and others

It's not exactly like you say. It is true that many people convert their
cars to run on gas instead of gasoline BUT it's LPG that they use. There is
a road tax on LPG and they are talking about raising that tax a lot... So
pretty soon gasoline or LPG will make no difference when it comes to price.
I want to make my D run on CNG. I can get the storage tank and everything
else needed, that is no problem. Since the same goes into LPG installation.
The problem is that LPG is rated at 100 octane which is close enough to
gasoline rated at 95 over here. The CNG is rated at 120 and this is where
the problem is. The engine will not be too happy about this, I will loose a
lot of power, it will be hard to start it. With LPG you can make it double
fuel no problem... with CNG it's more complicated.

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...


----- Original Message ----- 
> David,
>
> One of the reason the D owner in Poland is asking about NG conversion
> is that it is very common in Poland. Over 50% the cars have now been
> converted to NG.
>
> Poland has a direct source to inexpensive NG from Russia.   In fact,
> Russia is now supplying 25% of the NG to the EU.
>
> Gee, the EU has thumbed it nose at OPEC.  While the US continues to
> kiss OPEC a....
>
>
> Convert that D to NG.   Go for it.
>
>
> BOB






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 17:30:43 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: idle problems



I've seen (twice) high idle caused by complete failure of the idle 
control computer (using the term loosely). The test was to unplug the 
computer, then the car would idle slow and somewhat erratically. 
Swapping in a known-good box was the diagnostic technique, mostly 
because I had another one handy. 

Dave


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_u...> 
wrote:
> 
> The flurry of talk lately about idle control problems, especially --
-

> To check the idle motor, grab it with the key on.  If it's 
vibrating, generally it's OK or will be. Spray some WD-40 into the 
throat and give it a couple of firm raps with the tuning hammer. If 
it's not humming, check the connection on top.  Peel back the boot to 
see that none of the little connectors have backed up into the boot.  
If by this time, the motor doesn't respond, you're in for an idle 
ECU.  Also, there is a temp sensor that tells the ECU to let more air 
in when the engine is cold-the Contant Idle Switch or Thermister.  
These go bad in a characteristic way.  The engine will idle fine 
until it warms up, then as the engine warms, will rev higher until it 
settles into a 2000-2500 rpm idle.  The thermister is located in the 
coolant distrubution pipe under the intake manifold.  It cannot be 
unplugged or overridden exept by disabling the ECU.  This failure is 
very irritating.
> 
> After all this, if the idle won't be controlled, there is surely 
extra air coming from somewhere.  Find it.
> 
> Pictures for the idle motor, ECU, Solenoid and Thermister are 
behind the links.
> 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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