From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2571
Date: Friday, April 15, 2005 1:25 PM


There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Celebration Car Show April 30
From: whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Re: idle problems
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Another "header" post
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

4. Re: factoid
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

5. BTTF- Behind the scenes video
From: Ryan Hayward <ryanhayward_at_dml_nl.rogers.com>

6. RE: Another "header" post
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. RE: Re: idle problems
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. Re: So let's quiet this baby down...
From: Boo who? <liljon_2001_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. RE: So let's quiet this baby down...
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Re: Re: DMC Delorean Headlight Covers Update Clear pictures
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: So let's quiet this baby down...
From: Boo who? <liljon_2001_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Interior colors
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

13. RE: Not meant to be.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Re: Another "header" post
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

15. Re: Dealership Sign Fixup - Need Help!
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

16. Re: Not meant to be
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: So let's quiet this baby down...
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

18. Pennsylvania Turnpike Closure
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>

19. Re: So let's quiet this baby down...
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

20. Re: Another "header" post
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

21. Re: DPNW Door Actuator Upgrade Wiring
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

22. Re: Re: Cruise control question
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 21:14:58 EDT
From: whocruiser_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Celebration Car Show April 30


 
 
In a message dated 4/14/2005 3:52:32 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
fldmc_at_dml_yahoogroups.com writes:

so bring  out your cars!
All other events that weekend, the dinner, rally, etc are  optional. 
Please e-mail me at cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net or download the  
registration form at 
www.celebrationexoticcars.com

Thank you  and see you at the show!
Jeff  Ippoliti
#20022




Hi Jeff -
 
Last year was fun and normally I would be there again, but unfortunately I  
will be travelling out of the country the week of the show, and am therefore  
unable to attend.  I just dropped off my car at DMC Florida today for some  
work to be done while I'm gone, and I'd have loved to show it off in it's new  
improved condition, but alas the timing is a bit off for me.  Best of luck  with 
the show, I'll be thinking of you all out there with your cars, while  I'm 
schmoozing people and handing out my promotional stuff for my celebrity/fan  
vacation cruise with the stars of Doctor Who while I'm away at a sci-fi  
collectables & celebrity autograph show in England.
 
Cheers - Dan  

 
*****WhoCruiser_at_dml_aol.com is Dan  Harris*****
WhoCruiser's Personal Home Page: _http://members.aol.com/WhoCruiser_ 
(http://www.scificruise.com/) 
Read  about The Sci-Fi Sea Cruise at: _http://www.scificruise.com_ 
(http://www.scificruise.com/) 
Purr-use  The Cat House at: _http://members.aol.com/LookAtMyCatsPage_ 
(http://members.aol.com/LookAtMyCatsPage) 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 02:16:52 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: idle problems


I've seen about five. Still got three of the bloody boxes being looked 
at in an attempt to fix them - the usual "replace all the chips" didn't 
work.

I've also seen a bad ignition ECU that was putting out spurious pulses 
and confusing the idlespeed ECU. I only found the problem because I had 
a digital timing light set to "tach" on #1. It kept flicking from 850 to 
1500 momentarily and back down. The idle was what I'd call "fluttery", 
and the spurios signals wasn't enough to affect the rev counter.

Martin

Dave Swingle wrote:

>
>I've seen (twice) high idle caused by complete failure of the idle 
>control computer (using the term loosely). The test was to unplug the 
>computer, then the car would idle slow and somewhat erratically. 
>Swapping in a known-good box was the diagnostic technique, mostly 
>because I had another one handy. 
>
>Dave
>  
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 01:18:58 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Another "header" post



Has anyone here built their own exhaust using any headers-not DMCH, I
mean alpine headers or etc. that is true dual and uses cats? I don't
think DMCH is selling their exhausts separately since I couldn't find
it anywhere, and I'm sure they'd want 2K+ for em anyway right? I'd be
interested in seeing pictures if anyone has built their own. I'm going
to attempt to build one, just need to know how well the alpine headers
fit with frame, and if anyone has any plans or anything that may
help-I'd appreciate it. -----Dani B. #5003








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 01:22:29 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: factoid



Not necessarily. Cam timing, lift, duration, and overlap can impact 
the cranking-speed compression quite a bit. You cannot draw a direct 
relationship between compression ratio and compression in pounds PSI 
except between identical engines. Identical in bore, stroke, and cam 
timing. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I was just wondering how a crate engine compared to Volvo spec.
> 
> My Renault block blows around 170 PSI, so it obviously is 9.5ish:1.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_u...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > I can't recall testing a new one.  Bill says that 145 psi a good
> number on
> > an engine that has been broken in.  It is more important that the
> readings
> > be nearly the same than what the actual measurement is.
> > Warren at DMC
> > 
> > 








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 22:57:18 -0230
From: Ryan Hayward <ryanhayward_at_dml_nl.rogers.com>
Subject: BTTF- Behind the scenes video


Hey all

I was at the local dollar store and they have gross of VHS copies of the 
Back To The Future Behind the scenes video. I has many things in it 
about the Delorean and how they made some of the great special effects! 
Everyone should pick up a copy, if you can find one.

-Ryan Hayward
Future Delorean Owner





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 20:34:42 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Another "header" post


Dan, I have told a few people I was going to build headers but just so busy
I ran out of time. The car I'm using is now ready to go to the shop so we
can get started. I am going to sell them in many different ways as normal.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of stainlessilusion
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 7:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Another "header" post





Has anyone here built their own exhaust using any headers-not DMCH, I
mean alpine headers or etc. that is true dual and uses cats? I don't
think DMCH is selling their exhausts separately since I couldn't find
it anywhere, and I'm sure they'd want 2K+ for em anyway right? I'd be
interested in seeing pictures if anyone has built their own. I'm going
to attempt to build one, just need to know how well the alpine headers
fit with frame, and if anyone has any plans or anything that may
help-I'd appreciate it. -----Dani B. #5003








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 20:35:53 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: idle problems


I narrowed it down to one diode at one time when I had time to repair them.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Martin Gutkowski
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 7:17 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: idle problems




I've seen about five. Still got three of the bloody boxes being looked
at in an attempt to fix them - the usual "replace all the chips" didn't
work.

I've also seen a bad ignition ECU that was putting out spurious pulses
and confusing the idlespeed ECU. I only found the problem because I had
a digital timing light set to "tach" on #1. It kept flicking from 850 to
1500 momentarily and back down. The idle was what I'd call "fluttery",
and the spurios signals wasn't enough to affect the rev counter.

Martin

Dave Swingle wrote:

>
>I've seen (twice) high idle caused by complete failure of the idle
>control computer (using the term loosely). The test was to unplug the
>computer, then the car would idle slow and somewhat erratically.
>Swapping in a known-good box was the diagnostic technique, mostly
>because I had another one handy.
>
>Dave
>
>






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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 18:35:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Boo who? <liljon_2001_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: So let's quiet this baby down...


There are alternatives.  I wouldn't recommend Ice
Guard.  It is a roofing material and it has a grainy
side.  I have heard of people using it but I wouldn't
recommend it.  The one "legit" alternative is Be-Quiet

http://www.b-quiet.com/index.html

I used it in my Toyota pick-up doors around new 6 1/2
speakers.  Works well but it will add a little weight
to the door.  Don't THINK it will pose any problems
with your D.

Hope that is helpful Pat.



--- Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have often thought about Dynamating the entire
> floor of the car to see how
> quiet I can make it.  It would be pretty pricy, but
> I think it would work
> wonders.  I used it on the rear wall of the car by
> sticking it on the other
> side of the carpeted board, and it quieted the
> engine noise down in my early
> '81 a lot.  I bought it at Best Buy in the car
> stereo department, and
> apparently in the booklet that came with it they
> have a spray to get in hard
> to reach areas to block noise.  I also had a rattle
> in my passenger door
> that I could not get out to save my life, so I took
> off the interior panel
> and put dynamat on the other side of that.  It
> quieted down the door, and
> didn't appear to affect its opening at all, which
> was surprising.  I thought
> it would weight the door down, but it still flies
> up.  Eventually I found
> the rattle was the door lock rod for the exterior
> lock going through a
> rectangular opening inside the door was rattling.  I
> adjusted the linkage,
> and then I shot some rubber undercoating on that rod
> and around the opening
> in the door, and it quieted it down almost
> completely.
> 
> Good luck, it can be a quiet car.
> -Patrick C.
> 1880
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 


		
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 20:41:18 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: So let's quiet this baby down...


I have a sound proofing system on the web site now. It doesn't have the lead
in it as mentioned, but I have had no complaints. I have a place here in
Dallas is can buy all types of closed cell rubber in almost any size or foam
or what ever any one wants. If I need to look into it let me know.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/rubber-insulation-set.jpg


-----Original Message-----
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 11:07 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] So let's quiet this baby down...




I've made the decision.  I'd like to install a great sound system  in my
car.
 All the mods I perform, I would like to keep 100%  reversible.

However, if I do indeed install that CD player, with the car in its present
condition... I won't get too much enjoyment out of it!  Why?  Too darn
loud!

So right now, I'm fishing around for ideas to reduce the overall noise of
the DeLorean.  Engine noise, road noise, wind noise... all of it.  A  few
ideas
have been suggested to me, including caulking the rear window (early  VIN,
#1366), installing Dynamat panels to just about every aspect of the car,
and
replacing the door seals.  This sounds like the direction I'd really  like
to
head in, but I was wondering if there was anything else beyond that  anyone
could
recommend?  I'm just looking to reduce noise, period.   Oh, someone did also
mention the rubber boot near the console, below the shifter  that apparently
helps block out a lot of wind noise coming up through the  frame.  If mine's
missing, any idea who's got 'em?  And what part  number would that be
anyway?
An odd question, I know, but are there any  particular tires that fit the
DeLorean that are quieter than others?

All general ideas of reducing overall noise  welcome!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 18:48:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC Delorean Headlight Covers Update Clear pictures


I still want to see how they are attached. You seem reluctant to show this. Why?

silverdelorean2002 <jon_at_dml_jonbrodi.com> wrote:


There are also now pictures up of Clear headlight covers.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=4543332236



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "silverdelorean2002" wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks to the many that have purchased the Headlight Covers. We 
> apoligize about the delay with shipping. All covers are now in stock 
> and ready to ship so there will be no more delays. All orders ship 
> within 3 days. Take a look at the auction. There are many more 
> detailed pics available. (If link doesnt work copy and paste the 
> auction number into ebay 4543332236)
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&item=4543332236
> 
> 
> 
> Coming soon... Rear tailight covers.








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 19:01:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Boo who? <liljon_2001_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: So let's quiet this baby down...


Got my curiosity peaked Pat.  Had to google up some
answers to your question.  Here is another company
with a similarly priced deadening material...they even
have a paint-on variety for tough to mold places.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/category.php?type=damp


--- Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have often thought about Dynamating the entire
> floor of the car to see how
> quiet I can make it.  It would be pretty pricy, but
> I think it would work
> wonders.  I used it on the rear wall of the car by
> sticking it on the other
> side of the carpeted board, and it quieted the
> engine noise down in my early
> '81 a lot.  I bought it at Best Buy in the car
> stereo department, and
> apparently in the booklet that came with it they
> have a spray to get in hard
> to reach areas to block noise.  I also had a rattle
> in my passenger door
> that I could not get out to save my life, so I took
> off the interior panel
> and put dynamat on the other side of that.  It
> quieted down the door, and
> didn't appear to affect its opening at all, which
> was surprising.  I thought
> it would weight the door down, but it still flies
> up.  Eventually I found
> the rattle was the door lock rod for the exterior
> lock going through a
> rectangular opening inside the door was rattling.  I
> adjusted the linkage,
> and then I shot some rubber undercoating on that rod
> and around the opening
> in the door, and it quieted it down almost
> completely.
> 
> Good luck, it can be a quiet car.
> -Patrick C.
> 1880
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 22:38:46 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Interior colors


In a message dated 04/14/2005 12:17:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net writes:
> If I am reading the parts book correctly, the interior colors should 
> be black carpet for cars with black seats and dash and grey carpet for 
> gray seats and dash. 


Who knows what was installed by the previous owner. 

A woman about 10 years ago, advertised in Hemmings, was brokering DeLoreans 
from her office in Tennessee. I don't think she is still in business.  It was 
some scam IMO.  

Any older owners from the era remember her?

She contacted me about a car that I had for sale VIN 1183.  She had a buyer 
that wanted a gray interior car, however the car that was for sale had a black 
interior. She asked me if I would consider having the interior dyed gray for 
her customer. 

The car is now in the Netherlands, and still has black interior.

More to the point & to answer your question. 

The black interior cars, should have black seats, dashboard, console, etc., 
with a dark gray carpet. None of the factory built cars have a black carpet. 
The cars did have a very dark gray carpet and the optional factory floor mats 
were black.

 The Gray interior cars have a lighter gray carpet, almost silver tone.

There are two version of carpet piles/weaves in the DMC. The early cars have 
a bigger loop and the later cars have a tighter loop of carpet.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 21:43:48 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Not meant to be.


Luis,
Did you replace the alternator, is the battery light coming on when you turn
the key on. If it doesn't then the 161 bulb may be out. If it is you won't
run.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
The De Lorean alternator House.


-----Original Message-----
From: trekkerlb [mailto:TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com]
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 6:29 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Not meant to be.





Last year I was going to the Mid Atlantic Social when my car's
alternator decieded to go.  Got it in, along with a nes battery, and
she worked.

This year she had started acting up when I took her out for a spin a
month or so ago when we had a couple of nice days.  The lights
dimmed, she ran rough cold, or hot.  I thought it's probably a ground
issue.  Just before starting any work I gave her a short drive just
to check things out, and the voltmeter showed about 6 volts and ran
really bad - so I got to check ground from the battery to fram, to
motor mount, I even added a strap from the alternator to the motor
mount.

When I started the car, the voltmeter still showed 6 volts or so and
was running rough.  I though maybe it was the gas - it was a month or
so old, but when I was about to exit my driveway she died!

I made sure there was enough gas, it sounds like the fuel pump is
ticking away - the PO had changed it prior to my picking her up, and
it sounds like the FV is going also.  She cranks, but does not turn
over.


I'm going to check out the injectors to see if they spray, and at the
spark plugs.  Is ther anything else I could look into - other than
everything?  I'm somewhat frustrated I can't make it Saturday - and
am hopeful that something will work so that I could!

Thanks in advance
Luis & 3723








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 03:34:35 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Another "header" post



We'd pulled the exhaust system off the market while we got supply
issues resolved, and expect to have them available as early as next
week. Muffler, dual catalytic converters, and headers for $1495. These
new systems are ceramic coated by Jet-Hot in Mississippi, btw. Call
Warren and he can get you on the list.

James Espey
http://www.delorean.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Has anyone here built their own exhaust using any headers-not DMCH, I
> mean alpine headers or etc. that is true dual and uses cats? I don't
> think DMCH is selling their exhausts separately since I couldn't find
> it anywhere, and I'm sure they'd want 2K+ for em anyway right? I'd be
> interested in seeing pictures if anyone has built their own. I'm going
> to attempt to build one, just need to know how well the alpine headers
> fit with frame, and if anyone has any plans or anything that may
> help-I'd appreciate it. -----Dani B. #5003








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 04:42:55 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Dealership Sign Fixup - Need Help!



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_m...>
wrote:
> 
> That black ooze could be PCB laden dielectric material out of the
fluorescent ballast. The ballast would normally be labeled with what
it contained. This is a vintage where some of the stuff was still
around, especially if these signs were imported.
> You should handle and dispose of this responsibly.
> 
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663
> 
> 
Thanks for your concern!

The NEW ballast states it doesn't contain PCB's right on the label,
the old one doesn't.  I'm going to take it to the local HAZMAT
recycling center where I take old computer parts and paint, not to
worry.  

Today I (gingerly) put the sign on its back, and I've manged to get
the bottom panel off. It looks like someone almost did this before,
since most of the bottom screws were missing, and the only thing
holding it together were 2 heavily rusted (how insulting on a DMC
Sign!) screws that I manged to get off with a neighbor's impact
wrench. 

I cleaned out the lamp fragments and rusty bolts & washers and to my
delight, the broken light mount will be a snap to fix.  The original
rivets tore through the mounting bracket, but I can pop 'em out an use
some nuts/bolts to put it back together.  The acutal bulb holder is in
one piece and simply screws onto the mounting bracket.  Everything
else seems in fair condition for an old industrial sign. I still have
to find a set of replacement bulbs somewhere in town.  

I'll post some pics or make a webpage about all this when I'm done,
for those who are curious.  

Wish me luck,
-Steelskin








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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 01:40:01 EDT
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Not meant to be


The electrical problem is most likely your key problem, Remember if your fuel 
pump is not getting enough power it will not be able to provide the necessary 
fuel presure that the Bosch CIS needs to work properly.  Without the proper 
fuel pressure the car will never run properly.  If you are running a stock 
alternator check the wiring, if the wire to the battery light is either 
disconnected or somehow not making a complete circuit, this could be causing your entire 
electrical problem.  Does your battery light come on when the volts are 
reading at 6?  If your battery light is not going on you have found the nature of 
your problem.  If the alternator warning bulb is burned out that will cause 
major electrical problems (however there might also be a open circuit between the 
bulb and the alternator,  remember our cars are not new, and the electrical 
systems don't age very well)  
       If you are running a aftermarket Delco alternator check the plug, 
Alternator plugs can often cause a number of issues, espicially if the radiator 
overflow bottle causes coolant to run down and damage the plug.  To make a long 
story short, if you are runing a Delco alternator check the plug, and if there 
is any doubt, replace the plug (the plug can be picked up at any local parts 
store (with the exception of AutoZone...which I dont even consider a parts 
store....long story).  

       So here is the short end of the story, check the alternator wiring, 
not just the conections, but the wires themselves.  You might have an internal 
break in the wiring between the alternator and the dash (it could be in the 
electrial connection area by the coil).  I happened to find a way around this, 
which has finally made my car reliable and drivable (to the point that Im taking 
it on a 250 mile trip next week).

E-mail me off the list, and perhaps we can figure this out, in the last few 
years I have learned more about British electrical systems and K-Jetronic fuel 
systems then I thought I would ever know.

Andrew,

Just a reminder, dont touch the fuel system until you have the electrial 
problem figured out, with our fuel systems the car will never run properly unless 
the fuel pump is getting the proper power! (I learn this stuff the hard way)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 04:05:58 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: So let's quiet this baby down...


Years ago, I had a Corvair powered rear engine motorhome (Ultra Van).   The 
engine was under the rear bed and floor was carpeted and with a normal pad 
over it.   I wanted to quiet it down even more and at that time the only 
place I could find was an outfit in Canada that sold a lead shield with that 
purpose.   It came with a supporting system so it would not sag down onto 
the engine.   It made that motorhome so silent, it was like pulling it along 
with a string.   In fact several of us needed to know if the engine was 
knocking going up a long steep grade and believe it or not, we had to put in 
a cheapy Radio Shack battery powered intercom system that we could turn on 
so we could hear if any knocking.   But the sound deadening feature was the 
best I have ever seen.
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic:  DMC-XII 






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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 13:20:33 -0000
From: "media1524" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>
Subject: Pennsylvania Turnpike Closure



For all who are traveling the Pennsylvania Turnpike to the DMA Spring 
Social, Harrisburg radio is reporting that the Turnpike will be
closed 
from Breezewood to Carlisle from 11:30 PM Saturday to 05:00 AM Sunday 
for bridge demolition.

Brent Lundgren
VIN #17006








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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 11:38:20 -0400
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: So let's quiet this baby down...


Personally I think spraying plain rubber undercoating on the floor under the
carpet would have the same effect.  Then put the carpets back in once it
dries.  I don't plan on doing this as I have other projects my money will be
going towards, but the rubber undercoating should help somewhat if someone
wanted to go the cost effective route.

-Patrick C.
1880






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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 16:14:47 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Another "header" post



Only $1,500??? I'm calling Warren then, I thought these were much
more- this price isn't bad at all. Your previous headers-where they
also ceramic coated?? -----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> 
> 
> We'd pulled the exhaust system off the market while we got supply
> issues resolved, and expect to have them available as early as next
> week. Muffler, dual catalytic converters, and headers for $1495. These
> new systems are ceramic coated by Jet-Hot in Mississippi, btw. Call
> Warren and he can get you on the list.
> 
> James Espey
> http://www.delorean.com
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Has anyone here built their own exhaust using any headers-not DMCH, I
> > mean alpine headers or etc. that is true dual and uses cats? I don't
> > think DMCH is selling their exhausts separately since I couldn't find
> > it anywhere, and I'm sure they'd want 2K+ for em anyway right? I'd be
> > interested in seeing pictures if anyone has built their own. I'm going
> > to attempt to build one, just need to know how well the alpine headers
> > fit with frame, and if anyone has any plans or anything that may
> > help-I'd appreciate it. -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 10:15:19 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: DPNW Door Actuator Upgrade Wiring


Alistair,

> Has anyone fitted this to their car??

Yep. Slick setup.

> Does the wiring change if you have the zilla lock module instead of the original module??

Nope. The Zilla works exactly like the original module. Wire it up
just the same.

-- 
-Ryan





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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 09:25:30 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cruise control question


Hi Roy,

Will do! I will take many detailed pictures and write up the
instructions & how to obtain the unit. I should have this done early
next week, and I will post to the list so others can see it.

-Ryan

On 4/14/05, lordshill_at_dml_aol.com <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Ryan... An installation manual would be terrific.  I'd like to put a  cruise
> control in mine also.  Please include the model number of the unit  and where
> purchased.  Thanks
> 
> Roy VIN# 0893
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
-Ryan





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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