From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2574
Date: Sunday, April 17, 2005 12:15 PM


There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Another "header" post
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

2. Re: Another "header" post
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. Re: Another "header" post
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

4. Re: Re: Another "header" post
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

5. electrical system
From: "bigkidtoys1955" <bigkidtoys_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Re: Re: Another "header" post
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Big "Tyres"
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Re: Another "header" post
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. Re: re:Idle Problems
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Stuck in Omaha-Loud noise in Accumulator
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Reconditioning Leather?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: electrical system
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Stainless exhaust Questions
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Delorean Meeting in Italy.
From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. RE: electrical system
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. RE: Not meant to be.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Re: Stuck in Omaha-Loud noise in Accumulator
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:21:03 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Another "header" post


Very much so, but it's only the tempered purple/yellow colour that looks 
kind of mean. The important thing is that it doesn't rust, and this only 
really affects the manifolds (though I haven't seen a system running 
cats for any length of time).

Martin

stainlessilusion wrote:

>
>Also, the stainless doesn't change color from heating up and cooling
>down over and over again? -----Dani B. #5003
>
>  
>






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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 20:29:23 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Another "header" post



Bare stainless will change color with heat. Take a look at the stock SS 
muffler on your car now. 

I have stainless headers and stainless exhaust on a couple of non DMC 
cars - It turns blue/brown (not heavy rust,just kind of brown) over 
time, with the color varying as you move away from the engine. We did 
finally have the stainless headers coated by a process called HTC 
Coatings, it looked like soft chrome when new but has since softened to 
a dull grey with another 15k miles of driving, but still no rust. And 
it did seem to cut the heat quite a bit. 

It's very hard/impossible to keep an exhaust system shiny if you 
actually plan to drive the car. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Also, the stainless doesn't change color from heating up and cooling
> down over and over again? -----Dani B. #5003
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > Matt Spittle wrote:
> > 
> > >When I priced DMUK's totally stainless exhaust (which also
> > >includes everything), it was around $1,800 (Martin, correct me if 
I'm
> > >wrong).  Which would YOU rather have?  
> > >








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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 21:22:24 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Another "header" post



I don't mind a loud exhaust, but just as long as it doesn't sound like
the Civics kids drive with the huge round mufflers-sounds like a
pissed-off weed wacker which I DON'T want at all. Secondly, Rust is a
big problem when it comes to exhuasts as everyone knows, but I really
like DMCH's design, it doesn't look like stainless headers appear
boldly when viewed from behind-especially with ground effects. So-it
is sound/appearance versus stainless steel. Are DMUKs exhausts as loud
just with a different (raspy right?) tune, or what? I'm sure in years
to come EVERY state will require emission testing, so I'm going to get
exhaust with cats-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> 
> Just FYI, I bought a DMCH Stage II engine almost 2 years ago.  The
> engine is great, but I'm not as impressed with the exhaust.  Less than
> six months after I purchased it, it turned orange with rust.  Back
> then, I was driving it during an Indiana winter, in which case
> "ceramic coating" just means that it will take an extra two weeks to
> start rusting.
> 
> About 8 months after I bought the engine/exhaust, my DeLorean ceased
> to be my daily driver, simply because I finally got around to buying
> another car.  The exhaust continued to degrade, however, despite the
> fact that in the last year I haven't even driven the D in the rain. 
> Two of the four brackets that hold the heat shield onto the muffler
> have broken off because of rust.  Also, I believe the DMCH exhaust was
> designed to be a very visible and prominent feature when viewing the
> car from the rear, and it is.  It looked very intimidating when it was
> new, but when it's rusted, it just looks terrible.
> 
> James had offered to re-coat my exhaust system for free (complete with
> shipping to and from DMCH), but I opted not to do it because I would
> have had to pay a mechanic to remove and reinstall it.  Additionally,
> I would have needed a rental car (I estimated 3 weeks) because the D
> was my daily driver at the time.
> 
> James may want to respond to this -- I believe they were working on
> getting a better coating (maybe this was the supply issue?) so it may
> not be as big a problem as it was 2 years ago.  Still, it's just a
> coating.
> 
> Another thing about the exhaust that I don't like is that it's just
> too loud.  I knew a free-flow exhaust was going to be loud, but I
> didn't know it would be this loud.  The stainless exhaust available
> from the UK is customizable.  I would be willing to sacrifice a little
> power for a little quiet.  They also have the option of no cats, which
> is nice if there is no emissions testing in your state.  One more
> consideration is the exhaust note -- DMCH exhaust has a low rumble,
> stainless UK exhaust has a european "rasp" (in this case I actually
> prefer DMCH).  But these are all just personal preferences...
> 
> Aaron
> #1506
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > The sad part is they won't sell just the headers individually. 
> > Another sad part is that the system isn't stainless, for whatever
> > reason.  When I priced DMCUK's totally stainless exhaust (which also
> > includes everything), it was around $1,800 (Martin, correct me if I'm
> > wrong).  Which would YOU rather have?  
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Only $1,500??? I'm calling Warren then, I thought these were much
> > > more- this price isn't bad at all. Your previous headers-where they
> > > also ceramic coated?? -----Dani B. #5003
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > We'd pulled the exhaust system off the market while we got supply
> > > > issues resolved, and expect to have them available as early as
next
> > > > week. Muffler, dual catalytic converters, and headers for $1495.
> These
> > > > new systems are ceramic coated by Jet-Hot in Mississippi, btw.
Call
> > > > Warren and he can get you on the list.
> > > > 
> > > > James Espey
> > > > http://www.delorean.com
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...>
wrote:
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > Has anyone here built their own exhaust using any headers-not
> > DMCH, I
> > > > > mean alpine headers or etc. that is true dual and uses cats? I
> don't
> > > > > think DMCH is selling their exhausts separately since I couldn't
> > find
> > > > > it anywhere, and I'm sure they'd want 2K+ for em anyway right?
> > I'd be
> > > > > interested in seeing pictures if anyone has built their own. I'm
> > going
> > > > > to attempt to build one, just need to know how well the alpine
> > headers
> > > > > fit with frame, and if anyone has any plans or anything that may
> > > > > help-I'd appreciate it. -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:20:13 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Another "header" post


FYI.... There is also an approximately a $34.00 US import/surcharge tax that 
you will billed for.   This $34.00 amount is for the "non-cat" priced system.  
 Possible a little more for the "cat" system.   

Another option that is available for this system, is to get the whole system 
to be completely polished for an additional $100.00 US.   Polishing the system 
makes it a beautiful work of ART!   When you take off the wrappers, you may 
just like to look at it instead of mounting it.   Besides the system being very 
well manufactured, it is very well packed and drop shipped to your door.

According to Pat at PJ Grady who installed it, it is a perfect fit system 
with no hassles.   I had the system on for just over 24 months and I have over 
12,000 miles logged onto it.   The system offers more power, but more there is 
more noise, not much more, but it is nosier.   It is still worth the bang and 
"pops" for the bucks.   

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
with the www.stainless-exhaust.com "non-cat" system

==========================================================================

In a message dated 4/16/05 10:42:27 AM, martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk writes:


> 
> 
> Matt Spittle wrote:
> 
> >When I priced DMUK's totally stainless exhaust (which also
> >includes everything), it was around $1,800 (Martin, correct me if I'm
> >wrong). Which would YOU rather have?
> >
> >Matt
> >#1604
> >
> >
> Just a FYI - We advertise the exhaust on our website, but we don't sell
> them directly. This would be a bit cheeky as it was the DOC UK who
> actually paid for the development. We send any enquiries direct to the
> manufacturer who will sell the manifolds seperately. You can also buy
> interchangable cat pipes if that's your wish. The price, if I remember
> correctly is 650+vat for the non-cat system and 950 + vat for the
> catted system. vat is a nationwide sales tax of 17.5% which in theory
> you guys shouldn't pay when buying from outside the EU. Have alook at
> www.xe.com/ucc if you want to work out currency conversions.
> 
> Martin
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 22:21:48 -0000
From: "bigkidtoys1955" <bigkidtoys_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: electrical system



I think I know this answer but... I've lost all power to the fans, 
radio, windows, locks...etc. 

I've been storing the car for severaal years and would like to get it 
out and use it...








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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 18:33:31 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Another "header" post



Yes, it does change color from very shiny to a dull shine.   At the headers 
there will be "blue" color forming.   As of today, I have my system on for over 
24 months and over 12,000 miles driving all year around including the snow, 
rain and shine, hot and cold weather.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY


In a message dated 4/16/05 1:18:17 PM, 5n-_at_dml_gmx.net writes:


> 
> Also, the stainless doesn't change color from heating up and cooling
> down over and over again? -----Dani B. #5003
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 15:42:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Big "Tyres"


285/40ZR18's on 18x10's...with "some" mods.  ;  )


Steve
www.projectdelorean.com


--- John Rydholm <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious, but what size do you all have on your
> back tires? Mine 
> are 265's, kind of too big. But they don't
> rub...much. (I think!)
> -John, Mich.
> 
> SET=BLASTER I=82 P=DMC12
> SET=MIDI SYNTH:1 MAP:BTTF
> Autoexec.bat
> flux.bat
> johnzdelorean.cfg
> FILES=88
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 00:21:20 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Another "header" post


stainlessilusion wrote:

>Are DMUKs exhausts as loud
>just with a different (raspy right?) tune, or what? 
>

You can have one as quiet as your original if that's what you want. The 
Medium which everyone's gone for so far at idle, is quieter than DMCH's 
and only slightly lounder than atock. When going up through the revs 
though it's much louder, and quite raspy. Don't worry though, it 
definitely sounds "bigger" than the boy racers. It doesn't sound like 
it's trying to make the engine sound bigger than it is.

Martin





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 20:27:45 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: re:Idle Problems


In a message dated 4/15/05 3:28:33 PM Central Daylight Time, 
hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:


>  Some people are nuts and will replace the
> thermister, but there's a much easier way to fix it
> without damaging anything ....
> 

So how exactly do you fix it without fixing the actual part that's bad?  
Sounds to me like a work-around that might work for YOU but isn't good enough for 
most of us.  Just 'jumping a few wires' isn't auto repair and isn't likely to 
make the next owner too happy, or someone on this list who isn't mechanically 
inclined and doesn't know any better.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 03:37:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Stuck in Omaha-Loud noise in Accumulator



A bad accumulator will make the motor run badly but it should still
start. That is unless the fuel filter is plugged up with pieces of the
bladder from the accumulator. In any case the accumulator should not
make humming noises so I would start by changing it. If you don't get
good pressures after the fuel filter after changing the accumulator
then you probably need to change the fuel filter too. Safest bet is to
just order an accumulator and filter and change the accumulator first,
run the pump a little and then after you pushed whatever is in the
sytem into the fuel filter remove it and stick in the new one. Another
possability is the pump is getting air in it because of a bad pick-up
hose and is making the accumulator buzz. That would mess up the
pressures too. Before ordering anything pull the pump out of the tank
and inspect everything. You may need to order some parts in the tank
too. I believe most of the fuel system problems start in the fuel tank
anyway so it is a good place to start.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757   


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> 
> I just pulled into Omaha and my car started making a loud humming noise
> while stuck in traffic.  The noise appears to be coming from the
> accumulator - not the fuel pump.  
> 
> The last few days the car has been running sluggish, about 70% of
> normal power and has been harder to start first thing in the morning. 
> I'm wondering if these problems are related to the new hum/buzz.
> 
> es/








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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 03:46:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Reconditioning Leather?



I have tried a lot of things including Saddle Soap and Lexol. IMHO
Leatherique is a whole magnitude better. It is easy to use and brings
the leather "back from the dead". You can take leather that feels like
cardboard and make it soft again. Of course the worse it is to begin
with the longer it will take and the worse it will come out. It will
rejuvinate it a lot though. They also sell dye so you can actually
remove the old dye and redye it to remove surface cracks. They now
have the Delorean color on file from me. You can also get crack filler
for serious cracks. Go to their website and contact them. They are
very helpful. The hardest thing to get over is using sandpaper on the
leather but IT WORKS. Just don't ask about the price or you may get ill.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_h...>
wrote:
> 
> Saddle soap well.   Follow with Lexol (I hand rub it in), or L








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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 03:49:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: electrical system



I will go WAY out on a limb here and ask if the battery is still in
the car or if it is dead? Maybe frozen? Batteries do not store well,
you may need a new one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bigkidtoys1955" <bigkidtoys_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I think I know this answer but... I've lost all power to the fans, 
> radio, windows, locks...etc. 
> 
> I've been storing the car for severaal years and would like to get it 
> out and use it...








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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 12:18:40 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Stainless exhaust Questions


Hi All

I'm receiving quite a few questions off-list about the stainless system 
available over here in the UK. Once again, I'd like to point out that 
we, DMUK, neither make nor sell this system directly. Please direct any 
questions to Don at www.stainless-exhaust.com - There are photos of two 
DeLoreans with the system fitted.

I have fitted a couple of these systems and have also done our 
performance upgrade to two cars with the no-cat system fitted. Both are 
remarkably quick, fun cars now.

Best Wishes

Martin
DMUK





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 11:55:55 -0000
From: "bmw_delorean" <giastardust_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Delorean Meeting in Italy.



Hi everybody I'd like to inform you that it will be a Delorean meeting 
in Italy at the end of June.
For further information look at the site:
http://www.ritornoalfuturo.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=26

Bye 
Gianmaria








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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 06:58:10 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: electrical system


Check the large brown wire connections on the back of the alternator, that's
where most all the power originates from. If the power doesn't go direct to
the items it then goes to the main relay or the accessory relay as listed on
M:18:02 of the workshop manual. That's where I would start. Look for a
broken connection or a loose or rusty wire connection.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
9 am to 9 pm 12/7
Home of the complete AC system.



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of bigkidtoys1955
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 4:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] electrical system





I think I know this answer but... I've lost all power to the fans,
radio, windows, locks...etc.

I've been storing the car for severaal years and would like to get it
out and use it...








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 07:10:53 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Not meant to be.


What alternator do you have. The regulator may be burning up if not hooked
up correctly.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of trekkerlb_at_dml_netzero.com
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2005 1:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Not meant to be.





Hi John,

Yes I did replace the alternator last year.  The light does come on when I
try to turn her over, and prior to shutting off it would stay on unless I
reved the engine over 2k.  I'm going to try dropping the alternator and
taking it in with the battery to Autozone so they could check it for me.

Thanks for the input.
Luis & 3723





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 14:03:15 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stuck in Omaha-Loud noise in Accumulator



The noise is probably the fuel pump - If this is the case, when you 
start up the car after the fuel tank cools over night or a fresh 
fill-up the noise should disappear.

This is caused by the engine coolant lines being close to the fuel 
tank. When the tank expands it expands against the coolant line 
compounding the heat expansion and the noise. I think most owners 
have probably experienced this at one time or another, especially on 
long trips. It can be annoying. First time I experienced the hum it 
was so loud I couldn't hear the radio. I thought for sure the fuel 
pump was going.

I have taken the fuel tank out and rewrapped the coolant lines and 
adjusted the position of the tank, etc. just to have the noise 
return a few years later. I did a rewrap just before PF and all was 
well - but the other day I was way down on fuel after a long drive 
and started to hear the noise - filled up it is gone - for now. BTW 
the fuel pump is fifteen years old - and been out twice for 
rebooting. Pressures are all in spec.

Bottom line - if this is your problem you can drive on without fear.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> 
> I just pulled into Omaha and my car started making a loud humming 
noise
> while stuck in traffic.  The noise appears to be coming from the
> accumulator - not the fuel pump.  
> 
> The last few days the car has been running sluggish, about 70% of
> normal power and has been harder to start first thing in the 
morning. 
> I'm wondering if these problems are related to the new hum/buzz.
> 
> Previously, when my D's have had an accumulator problem, the 
pressure
> on the fuel system drops rapidly and is difficult to start after
> sitting a few minutes. (I run with a pressure gage on the fuel 
system
> all the time.)  I have 40 psi 20 minutes after turning off the 
engine.
> 
> Thsi is my second D and was in storage (of the improper kind) 
before I
> bought it and went thru the fuel system (pump, accumulator, filter,
> CPR, fuel distrib, rremove & flush tank, etc.)
> 
> Could the fuel filter be plugged from crud that accumulated in the
> lines and did not initially flush?  Am I likely to make it 60 miles
> home without a problem?  Any ideas.
> 
> Thanks in advance, once again.
> 
> Woody
> 
> Am I stuck at my girlfriend's house for the weekend?  he he
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/








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