From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2575
Date: Monday, April 18, 2005 3:11 PM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Gullwing Magazine
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

2. Exhaust tips
From: "heylacy" <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Condenser fittings question
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

4. Re: Granholm funds poor MI citizen for DeLorean repairs
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

5. Re: Granholm funds poor MI citizen for DeLorean repairs
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. Re: Granholm funds poor MI citizen for DeLorean repairs
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

7. Water Temp Gauge / Sender / Output
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

8. front camber/suspension anomaly
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

9. Extra Engine Bay Plug
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Re: Granholm funds poor MI citizen for DeLorean repairs
From: "Namlemez" <thecal_at_dml_optonline.net>

11. DMA Spring Social - Thank you all!
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

12. Re: Water Temp Gauge / Sender / Output
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. A/C Mode Switch Diaphragm Replacement
From: "Michael Townsley" <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

14. Re: Exhaust tips
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

15. A couple of questions
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. Re: A/C Mode Switch Diaphragm Replacement
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: A couple of questions
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. Re: A couple of questions
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

19. Re: DMA Spring Social - Thank you all!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Window, defrost and dummy switches (was:Re: A couple of questions_
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

21. Re: Another "header" post (long)
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

22. VIN: 2953 Doors
From: "conundrum1984" <vin02953_at_dml_delorean.com>

23. Re: Dealership Sign Fixup - Need Help!
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

24. Orlando, FL
From: rick abarca <stangboy70us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Window, defrost and dummy switches (was:Re: A couple of questions_
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 18:06:58 -0000
From: "gullwingmag" <gullwing-magazine_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Gullwing Magazine



For those of you that have been waiting, the newest issue of Gullwing 
Magazine is on the way.  We appreciate your patronage and hope you 
enjoy this issue.

Our website is being put together and should be ready for you to visit 
shortly.  You will be able to look at some info on back issues and 
order online.  We hope this helps those of you that want to see more 
about the magazine before you try it out.  

Again, thanks for all the support.

Ron
Gullwing Magazine








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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 18:17:04 -0000
From: "heylacy" <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Exhaust tips



Hi, What is anyone using to get rid of dinky looking stock exhaust 
tips? Is there an after market tip ,or just cut stock pipe and rig 
something. Seems like a shame to cut up a stock system. They look
like 
moped 35 mph pipes on a car that looks like a 150 mph. Thanks








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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 18:26:09 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Condenser fittings question



Hey gang,
I'm replacing the ac hose that runs from the compressor to the 
driver's side of the condenser and need to know what sizes the fitting 
on the hose and the fitting on the condenser is. My wrench set goes to 
24mm but skips 23mm so I'm thinking that the hose fitting is 23mm but 
I am uncertain of the condenser fitting. Your help would be great so I 
don't go and by the wrong sizes.
Thanks
sean









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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 23:02:20 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Granholm funds poor MI citizen for DeLorean repairs



And you believe your mechanic?

Ask this guy to personally show you everything. I would question both 
my mechanics ability, and his sense of self-worth if I was told by 
him that the source of my problems was a "bolt thingy".

I don't mean to be mean here, but put down the video games, and get 
crackin' on that car yourself.

Have the fool down at the garage physicly point out to you what he 
*thinks* is wrong with your car, and then tow it home. Next, read 
this:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm

And then come back for instructions on how to adjust your crossgate 
cable, and order a new pivot bolt for the rod linkage.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> ...shyeah right. I wish! Maybe she'll go Republican too. :P
> 
> Well I'm at the $5K mark or so around the repairs here. I let my 
poor 
> DMC-12 sit in the local shop for the past 3 1/2 weeks~ because I 
> thought I had one small problem with a bolt on the trans (5-speed) 
> breaking. Boy was I wrong! I just spoke with the mechanic today, 
and 
> he says I've got some problem with my reverse gear. All 5 speeds 
> forward, but no reverse. Apparently, when shifing the car into 
reverse 
> put some kinda stress on this bolt thingy and broke it. So he says 
> there's some problem in my fork or clutch or whatever, and they 
gotta 
> take the whole trans out to see what's wrong with it. I'm looking 
at 1 
> grande labor here. -FUDGESICLES!!!
> 
> *one moment please; user has lapsed into a severe state of semi-
> comatose stress*
> 
> Okay I'm better now, I thought of my best friend, the girl I love. 
A 
> pretty blonde. I think I'll go play Doom 3 now. On maximum gore 
> settings. I just did a 10 page term paper too. How are all you 
guys? I 
> hope much, much better than I am! :)








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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 00:26:09 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Granholm funds poor MI citizen for DeLorean repairs


I gotta go with Robert on this one - it's pretty hard to lose reverse 
gear due to something inside the trans. I can't think of a way that 
the clutch fork could keep you out of one gear only. What's not clear 
is what you took it in for. Did it suddenly lose reverse gear? 

It sounds to me like he has already replaced the pivot bolt and now 
does not know how to adjust the cable. It's a pretty touchy (i.e. 1/2 
turn here and there) adjustment. 

Typically breaking the crossgate pivot bolt gives you a complete 
inability to shift at all, but I'll bet the lack of reverse is an 
adjustment. Don't let him pull the trans just yet, if ever. 

Dave S  (lots of experience with manuals, and this doesn't add up)


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> And you believe your mechanic?
> 
> Ask this guy to personally show you everything. I would question 
both 
> my mechanics ability, and his sense of self-worth if I was told by 
> him that the source of my problems was a "bolt thingy".
> 
> I don't mean to be mean here, but put down the video games, and get 
> crackin' on that car yourself.
> 
> Have the fool down at the garage physicly point out to you what he 
> *thinks* is wrong with your car, and then tow it home. Next, read 
> this:
> 
> http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm
> 
> And then come back for instructions on how to adjust your crossgate 
> cable, and order a new pivot bolt for the rod linkage.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_y...> 
> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > ...shyeah right. I wish! Maybe she'll go Republican too. :P
> > 
> > Well I'm at the $5K mark or so around the repairs here. I let my 
> poor 
> > DMC-12 sit in the local shop for the past 3 1/2 weeks~ because I 
> > thought I had one small problem with a bolt on the trans (5-
speed) 
> > breaking. Boy was I wrong! I just spoke with the mechanic today, 
> and 
> > he says I've got some problem with my reverse gear. All 5 speeds 
> > forward, but no reverse. Apparently, when shifing the car into 
> reverse 
> > put some kinda stress on this bolt thingy and broke it. So he 
says 
> > there's some problem in my fork or clutch or whatever, and they 
> gotta 
> > take the whole trans out to see what's wrong with it. I'm looking 
> at 1 
> > grande labor here. -FUDGESICLES!!!
> > 









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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 00:48:55 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Granholm funds poor MI citizen for DeLorean repairs



Perhaps your mechanic can't figure out how to put it in reverse and 
instead is telling you there is something wrong-go and see for 
yourself. Mechanics are hardly ever truthful with you. If he knows 
that a single exterior bolt on the trans case effects reverse-he is 
one hell of a DeLorean mechanic!-----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 01:08:47 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Water Temp Gauge / Sender / Output



Can anyone explain to me why the voltage at the water temperature 
sender varies with the battery voltage but the reading on the water 
temp gauge itself does not seem to be affected by the battery voltage?

Thanks,

Dē & 6530

ps I just had a great time getting together with all of the fellow, 
DeLorean Mid Atlantic Club members.  Thanks to you all!








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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 18:12:16 -0700
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: front camber/suspension anomaly


Hi, folks.  I'd appreciate any thoughtful comments on what my alignment guy just found, the process of installing the Eibach spring kit:

The front left camber is -1.7 degrees, while the right is -0.3.  My shop manual specifies front camber at between 0 and -0.5, and says it's non-adjustable, so if that's correct, something is strange with the left side.  Additionally, the left front sits 0.5" higher than the right, so we're not sure what's going on.

I've not had any incidents that could have bent anything, and the PO is someone I trust, and by all accounts he took excellent care of the car.  Regardless of what caused it, I'm not sure what to do about it.  My local mechanic is definitely an expert (and a perfectionist), but not experienced with DeLoreans, so I thought I'd solicit advice.

Thanks a ton for any and all help!

Regards,
Owen
VIN 10470





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 01:13:00 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Extra Engine Bay Plug



Does anyone know the function of the two conductor plug that is on the 
firewall of the engine bay.  The one I am talking about has a red and 
black wire and appears to go to a 1 microfarad capacitor.   I cannot 
find anything to connect it to.

Dē & 6530








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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 01:27:08 -0000
From: "Namlemez" <thecal_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Granholm funds poor MI citizen for DeLorean repairs


Hey,

Not to derail the thread, but do you happen to know the part # for
"pivot bolt for the rod linkage"?  There's a few called pivot bolt on
that page.

I've actually got the exact same problem as John...everything but
reverse works because I can't lift the stick. I found a post from 2000
suggesting to check the pivot bolt like you said, but the parts manual
lists several and since I'm somewhat new to this, I couldn't figure
out which one was being referred to :) 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> 
> 
> And you believe your mechanic?
>





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 22:10:26 -0400
From: Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: DMA Spring Social - Thank you all!


Thanks to everyone who made this year's spring social such a tremendous
success!   The event was our largest ever with over 85 people present and 38
cars in attendance!
 
I want to put a special thanks to:
My Wife Cheryl
Rob and Debby Grady
Evil Dan D. and Dave Teitelbaum
John Hervey
Hackettstown Motor Import
DMC Houston
Ken Koncelik
Steven Clark (BTTF.COM)
Gullwing Magazine
Lorrain HinoJos  (The Delorean Blankets were a big success!)
The Brandy's Family, David Heise, and Tiffany O.  (Sat. morning went MUCH
easier due to your help!)
.......and EVERYONE else who attended, donated items, helped coordinate,
etc.. (The list of names is long, and I am tired so please forgive me if I
did not mention you specifically!)
 
Planning a good event would have been meaningless without all the AWESOME
members and vendors who made the event possible.
 
Cheryl and I are off now to sleep a GOOD LONG sleep.  :)    I should have
the DMA website updated in a few days with pictures and a write-up in our
scrapbook.
 
Before Cheryl and I head off to bed for some MUCH needed sleep, we have two
final parting things to say:
1.  "Ken....now we know how you feel after the DCS shows!  ;)"
2.  Remember everyone...keep BOTH toothbrushes at the TOP of your purse if
you want to win a prize.  ;)
 
Kevin (and Cheryl) Abato
Vin# 16680
 
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:06:52 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Water Temp Gauge / Sender / Output


...because the gauge is powered byt he battery as well as using it to 
generate a reading. The gauge has obviously been designed properly such 
that it makes sure to adjust based on supply voltage.

The actual sensor is a resistor to ground which changes with temperature.

Martin

drdhdmd wrote:

>
>Can anyone explain to me why the voltage at the water temperature 
>sender varies with the battery voltage but the reading on the water 
>temp gauge itself does not seem to be affected by the battery voltage?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dē & 6530
>
>ps I just had a great time getting together with all of the fellow, 
>DeLorean Mid Atlantic Club members.  Thanks to you all!
>
>  
>






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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 12:14:34 -0000
From: "Michael Townsley" <michaeltownsley_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: A/C Mode Switch Diaphragm Replacement



I have the hissing sound emitting from the area of my A/C mode switch 
and I have purchased a Mode Switch Diaphragm to replace the existing 
one as a first step in restoring the car's A/C function.

My question is in regards to finding the most efficient proceedure to 
gain access to the Mode Switch to service it. While figure 52 in the 
Workshop Manual provides an illustration of the switch I could not find 
any text describing its removal. Does gaining access to the switch 
require the complete removal of the console unit or can you just pop 
out the switch panel facing?

I would appreciate any suggestions on how to proceed.

Mike Townsley

Vin # 17043 

PS: I would like to thank all the folks who planned and contributed to 
the "Spring Social" in Hackettstown this past weekend...it was a great 
event.








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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 02:26:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust tips


I'm assuming you have an '81 with the straight tips?I
agree they look a bit pedestrian.My car is an '81 and
used to have them but the P.O of my car swapped them
with tips from an '82/'83 DeLorean.These tips are
bigger and have a flared end on them which I think
looks much better.I've seen many other aftermarket
tips used on the DeLorean.You could go to your local
car parts shop or exhaust shop and find a nice one
that fits.I'd suggest using stainless, if possible.

Cheers,
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney
--- heylacy <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi, What is anyone using to get rid of dinky looking
> stock exhaust 
> tips? Is there an after market tip ,or just cut
> stock pipe and rig 





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 14:45:21 -0000
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: A couple of questions



First, I'd like to thank people for the advice on purchasing and 
transporting my new Delorean from VA to MA.  I took the advice of 
towing it via a rented UHAUL truck and trailer.  I drove Rte. 95 all 
the way home last Tuesday from 4 pm to 4 am Wednesday!  I got it 
home safely and will register it tomorrow.  

A couple of questions.  I have a replacement binacle to switchout 
the original which has a crack and some sun damage.  I can feel 
almost all the fastening screws behind the dash.  Is it easy to 
replace, or is it going to take an entire saturday to swap it out? 
Also, where can I buy replacement dummy and window control 
switches.  The existing ones look a little tired (lumpy and 
distorted) and have been poorly repainted, etc.

I am sure I will have many more quetions as issues arise, and need 
addressing.

Thanks,

Paul








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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 16:09:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: A/C Mode Switch Diaphragm Replacement



The mode switch can be done without removing anything except the
switch itself. It is tight and difficult. Removing the center console
makes it a much bigger job but it does give you a lot more room.
Consider just removing the driver's seat and sticking your head where
your feet go with your back on the carpet. It can be done but you do
have to contort yourself to fit. Try not to mix up the connections
when you remove the mode switch. There are 3 wires and several hoses
which MUST go back in their correct places. The earlier cars had each
hose go on the valve. The later cars had the hoses go to a large
rubber plug which can be removed from the mode switch with all of the
hoses attached so you can reassemble easily without mixing them up. Be
very gentle with the mode switch. When plastic gets old it gets
brittle so you can crack it or strip the holes very easy. Lubricate
the rubber "maze" diaphram with some silicon so it turns easily.
Removing the console isn't that big a deal anyway and it gives you the
chance to find all your loose change and clean everything up anyway.
Removing the seats is very easy too. Just 4 nuts each underneath. 
Note the colors of each wire on the mode switch and the hoses have a
colored stripe to identify them also. When you take the mode switch
apart there are tabs so you don't put it back together wrong. Taking
off the front plastic does not get you access, there is a metal plate
behind. Removing the center console gets you in from the side. By
removing the screws holding the mode switch you pull it out to the
side and then disconnect it so you can get it out of the car to take
it apart.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Townsley"
<michaeltownsley_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have the hissing sound emitting from the area of my A/C mode switch 
> and I have purchased a Mode Switch Diaphragm to replace the existing 
> one as a first step in restoring the car's A/C function.
> 
> 








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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 16:20:43 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: A couple of questions



Time to find the tech section files on www.dmcnews.com - 

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/binnacle.htm

An hour or two depending on how big your hands are. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
> 
> > 
> A couple of questions.  I have a replacement binacle to switchout 
> the original which has a crack and some sun damage.  I can feel 
> almost all the fastening screws behind the dash.  Is it easy to 
> replace, or is it going to take an entire saturday to swap it out? 
> Also, where can I buy replacement dummy and window control 
> switches.  > 
> I am sure I will have many more quetions as issues arise, and need 
> addressing.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul








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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 16:31:06 -0000
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: A couple of questions



Thanks Dave.  I guess I need some time to find these tech files when 
thye exist, so I don't waste people's time repeating things already 
covered.

Regards,

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Time to find the tech section files on www.dmcnews.com - 
> 
> http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/binnacle.htm
> 
> An hour or two depending on how big your hands are. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > A couple of questions.  I have a replacement binacle to 
switchout 
> > the original which has a crack and some sun damage.  I can feel 
> > almost all the fastening screws behind the dash.  Is it easy to 
> > replace, or is it going to take an entire saturday to swap it 
out? 
> > Also, where can I buy replacement dummy and window control 
> > switches.  > 
> > I am sure I will have many more quetions as issues arise, and 
need 
> > addressing.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Paul








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 16:43:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DMA Spring Social - Thank you all!



I was in charge of door adjustments for the event. Most did not need
any adjustment, the owners just wanted someone to look it over and
make sure it was OK. One I had to tighten up but several I had to
loosen. I guess in the past the torsion bars were overtightened to
compensate for weak struts. The main thing I wanted to comment on was
I also conducted what I called a "Safety Check". I checked the brake 
lights, tail lights, markers, hazard, and park lights. Most were OK
but several had issues with brake lights. The other MAJOR thing I
checked was tire pressures. Besides most not knowing what the correct
pressures were, they did not know where to find it. I found some cars
had as much as 40 psi in some tires and some had as low as 12 psi in
the fronts. Tire pressures make a very significant difference in
handling, ride comfort, and tire life. I cannot overemphisize the
importance of correct tire pressures enough! This is something that no
owner can have any excuses for not doing. I am sure most who read and
participate on the DML pay much more attention to this than most
owners. Try to educate others as to the importance of correct tire
pressures. I had one car I checked and the owner commented (after
putting air in the fronts from 12 psi to 23psi) "Now I feel like I
have Power Steering!". You cannot just take a car out of storage,
charge the battery and put some gas in it! You should check all the
fluids, (change the brake and clutch fluids if over 2 years old) AND
CHECK THE TIRES! On a Delorean, because of the known issues with the
tailight boards, it is important to regularly check the brake lights
so you don't get rear-ended. If your spare won't hold air get it
resealed with bead sealer. The one car I could not be sure of the
correct tire pressures was Rich's car. I have no idea how much air the
front tires need to hold up an engine in the front!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> Thanks to everyone who made this year's spring social such a tremendous
> success!   The event was our largest ever with over 85 people
present and 38
> cars in attendance!
>  
>








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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 18:13:52 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Window, defrost and dummy switches (was:Re: A couple of questions_



Mike,

New old stock, original window and defrost switches have been
generally unavailable for some time. Reproductions were made a couple
of years ago and any of the full-service vendors )DMC (Texas) or DMC
(Florida), PJ Grady, DeLorean Motor Center, or Bauerle Automotive)
will have them as well as the dummy switches on either side of the
window switches.

The dummy switches can be replaced with an unmarked defrost switch if
you have a need for a simple, on/off switch. This part is also
available from any of the full-service vendors.

The link below shows the reproductions and a handy link to order from
DMC (Texas).

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=365&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=468&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=3125&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> 
(SNIP)
> Also, where can I buy replacement dummy and window control 
> switches.  The existing ones look a little tired (lumpy and 
> distorted) and have been poorly repainted, etc.
> 









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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 18:41:04 -0000
From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Another "header" post (long)



The coating quality was part of the supply issue. When we first
started the performance engine program, all the exhausts were mild
steel and just painted with a high temp black paint. We even did the
first several stand-alone exhaust systems we sold this same way.

Later on, as a "value-added" service, we began to have the exhausts
coated by a local supplier. We didn't change the price, we just
thought it looked nicer and made less money on them as we were trying
to grow the market for the exhaust.

Within six months after this change, we began to notice they were
rusting, much to our surprise. We met with the coater and they offered
to re-do any that had bad coating. After two or three, they began to
say that we must be exceeding the temperature limits of this coating
and recommended that we switch to a black ceramic coating, which we
did. We were less happy with the appearance, but still wanted the
protection. The black was supposed to be good up to about 1500
degrees, IIRC.

After a few months of this, we began to see even the black ones
rusting. More back and forth with the coater, and we sent a set of the
rusting coated exhausts to Jet Hot in Mississippi for evaluation. Tehy
indicated that the problem was a combination of poor surface
preparation on the part of the local coating company and possibly
sub-standard coating materials used.

We've now heard through the grapevine here in town that many other
customers of this coating company are experiencing the same problems
with the coating. It's believed that by the time all their customers
are through with them, both with legal action and the bad word of
mouth, they will be out of business.

We looked into having them made from stainless, and weren't able to
come up with the right combination of cost vs quantity required (with
tooling) to make the numbers work. Note that the pipes of our headers
are equal length, something that the UK SS exhaust does not have the
last time I saw photos of it.

So we're back to having them made here locally as before (actually
soon to be in-house) and having them coated by Jet Hot. We're still
looking at having our own muffler made to keep a similar exhaust note
to what we have now, just a bit quieter. 

In any case, the new Jet Hot coated exhausts will be available in some
quantities later this month/early next at the same $1495 price. Two
headers, two cats, muffler and tips.

Aaron, now that your car is no longer your daily, let me know if you
want it re-coated and I will arrange to have it done by Jet Hot for
you, as well as replace your broken brackets.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
(SNIP) 
> James may want to respond to this -- I believe they were working on
> getting a better coating (maybe this was the supply issue?) so it may
> not be as big a problem as it was 2 years ago.  Still, it's just a
> coating.
> 
> Another thing about the exhaust that I don't like is that it's just
> too loud. 








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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 18:46:16 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <vin02953_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: VIN: 2953 Doors



I just placed new gas strust on my doors that I purchased from DMC 
Houston.  They work fine and hold up "ok" when I push the door all the 
way up.  The driver's door goes most of the way up then I got to push 
it a little to go the rest of the way.  The passenger's door goes up 
maybe half the way with the new strut.  Does the torsion bar need 
adjusted?  If so, could someone help me on how to do so I don't mess it 
up, because I read it could screw it up?  Thank you!








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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 19:33:38 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Dealership Sign Fixup - Need Help!



Well, I've had a good weekend for fixing up my dealership sign.  Last
week I had purchased 4 same-size bulbs only to later find that one of
the bulbs was like a foot longer than the others. The only one I
didn't measure myself.  They don't sell these bulbs at Home Depot or
Lowe's, only at specialty lighting stores, which of course are not
open weekends.  Over the weekend I wired in the new ballast and
finished cleaning out the mounting box.  The new ballast is about 3
inches shorter than the original one, but the top set of mounting
bolts still lined up so it'll be fine.

Today I picked up 2 of the large bulbs (just in case) and a
replacement utility cord to hook up to the ballast (it comes with just
bare wires).  I put in the new bulb, wired up the plug, and in my
greatest Clark Griswold moment, I plugged it in and *ta-da*!! 
 
http://www.johnspangler.com/share/deloreansignlit.jpg

My wife and her friend (playing hooky today) took about 5 minutes to
come see it, thus ruining the "Come out, quick, look at the lights"
moment, but oh well.

I'm not going to do anything else to the sign like repaint it (it's
got some scratches), but I'm definitely going to give the stainless a
good scrubbing.  All in all this only took about $90 in parts to get
back in shape.  Not too bad.

Once I get it wall-mounted in the new garage I'll put up a small
webpage with all the pics I took along the way.

-John








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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 13:14:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: rick abarca <stangboy70us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Orlando, FL


I will be in Orlando on business this weekend and
would like to meet with any D owners and talk shop. 
Anyone planning on going to Bonita Springs as well? 
Let me know off line.  Thanks

Rick
17160


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Make Yahoo! your home page 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs





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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 19:07:38 -0000
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Window, defrost and dummy switches (was:Re: A couple of questions_


Thanks James,

I will plan to order soon.  It's mostly the dummy switches that were 
poorly repainted.  The window switched were also repainted with 
arrow decals placed on.  I'd prefer original looking, than the 
repainted.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James" <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Mike,
> 
> New old stock, original window and defrost switches have been
> generally unavailable for some time. Reproductions were made a 
couple
> of years ago and any of the full-service vendors )DMC (Texas) or 
DMC
> (Florida), PJ Grady, DeLorean Motor Center, or Bauerle Automotive)
> will have them as well as the dummy switches on either side of the
> window switches.
> 





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