From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2582
Date: Friday, April 22, 2005 11:08 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Upgrading the DeLorean Horns?
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

2. Re: Reverse grinding
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

3. Re: Reverse grinding
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

4. Re: Reverse grinding
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

5. Re: Anomalous brake light
From: "mdcdmc81" <mcho628_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: Marker Lights/Parking Lights
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Re: Marker Lights/Parking Lights
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Reverse grinding
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Reverse grinding
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

10. Re: Reverse grinding
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

11. Re: Cement that should be used to secure window guides to door skin?
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

12. Re: Replacing Front Speakers
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

13. Has this ever happened to anyone?
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

14. Re: Reverse grinding
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

15. DeLorean owners in NJ
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Turn Signals
From: "morpheus34711" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Marker Lights/Parking Lights
From: "morpheus34711" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: Marker Lights/Parking Lights
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Volvo Manuals
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>

21. Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

22. Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

23. RE: Marker Lights/Parking Lights
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

24. Re: Reverse grinding
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

25. Fuel Pump Noise
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 11:20:43 -0500
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Upgrading the DeLorean Horns?


We've got 1600-odd of the late style intertia switches in stock.  Anyone may
order.  We'll be happy to replace an early style switch for anyone who will
bring their car here.  The flat rate charge for that labor operation is
$64.00.  The switch itself is $44.91.
Warren at DMC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "DMCVIN6683" <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Upgrading the DeLorean Horns?
>
>
> Is your company responsible for doing the recall?
>
> After all you call yourself The Delorean Motor Company and they were
> responsible for doing all recalls.
>
> Mark V
>
> On Apr 20, 2005, at 4:37 PM, Warren Wallingford wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > The worst wiring modification I ever saw was on a car from the farm
> > belt.
> > The fuel pump quit and the Farmall mechanic had run an 8 gauge red
> > wire from
> > the battery,----
> > it was less than elegant.  All this because the inertia switch was bad.
> > (There's a recall).
> >





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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 16:22:41 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Reverse grinding



My car does the same thing, grinds when I try to place in in reverse.
I was talking about it to a friend of mine who is a mechanic and he
recommended (of course at a full stop) putting it in first and then
into reverse. I started doing this and it doesn't grind now. He said
you need to do this on a lot of cars?-who knows, but it works for me.
-----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 11:30:31 -0500
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Reverse grinding


Oh boy.  Sounds like they milled the 'step' off of the flywheel.  The
surface that the clutch plate contacts is supposed to be 15 thousands higher
than the rest of the flywheel, where the pressure plate is bolted.  I'm
surprised you can get it into any gear.  Maybe they took just enough off of
the raised portion to mess things up.  Take it back.
Warren at DMC


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Holler" <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 10:48 AM
Subject: [DML] Reverse grinding
>
> Thanks in advance from the helpful ones here.
> Had my clutch replaced at a 30+ year transmission garage.
> It's been a nightmare.
> The job took a week.  He broke bolts, almost lost my repair notebook.
> Finally picked up the DeLorean and it had no 5th gear and grinding to
> get it in reverse.
> They 'discovered' the 5th gear upon a re-adjustment, and said the
> grinding reverse just needs to 'work in.'
>
> (I'm kinda stupid, but even I know better than that.)
>
> The clutch master cylinder isn't leaking.  It's full of fluid and has
> been bled of any possible air.
>
> The mechanic said he had the flywheel milled.  I was told that's standard.
>
> I just can't seem to get it into reverse now without it making the most
> gosh-awful grinding sounds. (Once there, it's o.k.)
>
> Maybe they 'smoothed' the flywheel too much?





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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 11:43:21 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Reverse grinding


Oliver,

They did not adjust the trans linkage properly.    It is rather tricky, 
but someone in the business for 30 years should have known better.

BOB






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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 17:01:32 -0000
From: "mdcdmc81" <mcho628_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Anomalous brake light



The brake fluid was low. Thanks everyone for the help. Now I have to
see if and where there might be a leak.








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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 18:26:49 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Marker Lights/Parking Lights


Probably a dirty fuse. They are fused seperately

Martin

Sean Mulligan wrote:

>Does anyone know how the marker lights/parking lights
>are wired?  My left side is completely out, but my
>right side is working.  Cleaned all contacts and all
>the bulbs are intact.  Thanks
>
>Sean Mulligan
>vin #10054
>  
>






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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 16:55:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Marker Lights/Parking Lights



The marker lights are separately wired, each side, through the
headlight switch. If both on 1 side are out check the headlight switch
and the wiring to it. It may have burnt up or a connector backed out
of the plug. Also check both fuses. Power goes through the headlight
switch BEFORE going to the left and right side marker fuses.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know how the marker lights/parking lights
> are wired?  My left side is completely out, but my
> right side is working.  Cleaned all contacts and all
> the bulbs are intact.  Thanks
> 
> Sean Mulligan
> vin #10054
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com








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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 16:51:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Reverse grinding



It sounds like the clutch isn't fully releasing when stepping on the
clutch. Be sure you are stepping all the way down on the clutch pedal
and you give the trans a chance to stop inside. You are not supposed
to shift into reverse while moving. If it still grinds recheck the
linkage adjustments. If you still have trouble and you have the
plastic line replace it with the braided steel one and rebleed the
clutch. The clutch and trans will not "work in". After you get this
grinding fixed you may consider changing the oil in the trans to flush
out the wear from the grinding. Grinding (milling) the flywheel is
pretty routine but if they took too much materiel off it could be part
of the problem. This is a little weird, if it doesn't grind 1st it
shouldn't grind reverse unless you try to shift into reverse while the
car is still moving.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> Thanks in advance from the helpful ones here.
> Had my clutch replaced at a 30+ year transmission garage.
> It's been a nightmare.
> The job took a week.  He broke bolts, almost lost my repair notebook.
> Finally picked up the DeLorean and it had no 5th gear and grinding to 
> get it in reverse.
> They 'discovered' the 5th gear upon a re-adjustment, and said the 









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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 13:35:25 -0400
From: Michael Paine <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Reverse grinding


> They 'discovered' the 5th gear upon a re-adjustment

Keep adjusting...

Replacing JUST the clutch should not require a complete realignment of the sift
cable.

I removed my transmission to do the clutch and replaced a pin inside on the
1st/2nd shift fork. Aafter reassembly everything bolted back up and shifting is
fine - No adjustments. I was lucky it seems, you should be able to adjust the
shift linkage and crossgate cable to find both 5th and reverse.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice and assistance with my transmission/clutch
repairs. Having never done it before, you were all well appreciated.

Regards,

Michael
vin6067

Quoting Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>:

> 
> 
> Thanks in advance from the helpful ones here.
> Had my clutch replaced at a 30+ year transmission garage.
> It's been a nightmare.
> The job took a week.  He broke bolts, almost lost my repair notebook.
> Finally picked up the DeLorean and it had no 5th gear and grinding to 
> get it in reverse.
> They 'discovered' the 5th gear upon a re-adjustment, and said the 
> grinding reverse just needs to 'work in.'
> 





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 16:37:44 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Reverse grinding


It sounds like you need to do a little more adjustment to the 
shift mechanism.  Another thing to keep in mind is that reverse
is not synchronized.  If you start the car and release the clutch,
reverse will be spinning, and when you try to engage the gear, 
it will give a bit of a grind.  If you put the gearbox into first 
gear before selecting reverse, the grind should go away.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>: -------------- 


> 
> 
> Thanks in advance from the helpful ones here. 
> Had my clutch replaced at a 30+ year transmission garage. 
> It's been a nightmare. 
> The job took a week. He broke bolts, almost lost my repair notebook. 
> Finally picked up the DeLorean and it had no 5th gear and grinding to 
> get it in reverse. 
> They 'discovered' the 5th gear upon a re-adjustment, and said the 
> grinding reverse just needs to 'work in.' 
> 
> (I'm kinda stupid, but even I know better than that.) 
> 
> The clutch master cylinder isn't leaking. It's full of fluid and has 
> been bled of any possible air. 
> 
> The mechanic said he had the flywheel milled. I was told that's standard. 
> 
> I just can't seem to get it into reverse now without it making the most 
> gosh-awful grinding sounds. (Once there, it's o.k.) 
> 
> Maybe they 'smoothed' the flywheel too much? 
> Maybe the new clutch plate was defective? 
> Maybe he dropped it before installing? 
> 
> If only I lived within a day's drive of ANY Delorean Service Center... 
> 
> Oliver Holler 
> Vin#10694 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 15:29:40 -0500
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Cement that should be used to secure window guides to door skin?


Those guides bolt onto the door bracing.  Have another look.  They're shown
in 3-6-5 of the parts manual.

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=1492&Qty=1&ShowCart=true
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=1494&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

Warren at DMC


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 10:39 AM
Subject: [DML] Cement that should be used to secure window guides to door
skin?
>
> The previous owner of the car I just bought had replaced the driver's
> side window motor/mechanism, but was not aware that the
> window "guides" (I don't have the exact part description handy at the
> moment - sorry)needed to be glued to the exterior door skin in order
> to make the window move uniformly up and down.  Currently, it sort
> of "floats" around as the window is operated, and goes up and down at
> cockeyed angles, etc.!
>
> What kind of cement/adhesive would secure the guides sufficiently in
> place?  Thanks,  Paul





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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 00:17:34 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Front Speakers


I bought speakers that also had a slightly raised tweeter...  My
solution worked well, but depends entirely on the speakers: I
carefully pried off the plastic decorative bezel from the tweeter,
which left it only protruding slightly.  I then mounted it with no
further modifications or shims...  the slight protrusion has an almost
unnoticable push on the speaker grills.  My speakers are Pioneer
TS-A878s; YMMV.

--Greg
#2894

On 4/20/05, Michael & Denise <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net> wrote:
> I recently purchased a set of replacement front speakers which unfortunately do not sit flush against the dash like the stock Craig ones as they have the tweeter slightly raised.  Has anybody had any experience creating a ring (like a gasket) to go around the speaker so that it would stay flush with the dash like the original?  There must be a simple solution to this but as usual the obvious answer always seems to elude me!





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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 05:32:02 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Has this ever happened to anyone?



So I was checking the fluid in my auto tranny today to make sure the
levels were good etc.  Warmed the car up, drove it around, brought it
back to the garage, put it in park, hit the e-brake, and left it
running.  I pulled the dip stick out, wiped it clean, stuck it back
in, waited a second, and pulled it back out to take a reading.  Lo and
behold the flat metal piece at the end was MISSING!  GDSOB!!!  How the
h3ll did that happen??  

I knew I shouldn't have shaken that vending machine to get the
free pack of Skittles…damn you karma!

Anyone run into this problem before?  Is there an easy solution other
than dropping the pan?  I was thinking about taking a large magnet and
trying to see if I can bring it towards the drain plug…but somehow I
feel this effort would be futile.

Common guys…help me feel better by telling me that this has
happened before so I don't feel like a complete jackass.

Thanks!!
Dave Jacobs
6406
6207








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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 11:46:09 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Reverse grinding


Hi Warren

I can change a clutch, but I do like to learn when I read something new! 
Why will knocking a fraction off the friction surface make that kind of 
difference? Surely it'll have the opposite effect of making the clutch 
slip rather than having it bite all the time? I'm sure I'm missing 
something here- I've really enjoyed reading your posts lately BTW :-)

Personally I reckon they're buggered up the crossgate cable adjustment 
when pulling the gearbox out. It's the easiest way to get the box out 
but does need to be adjusted down to half-a-turn when going back in. If 
he had trouble with both 5th and reverse, that definitely sets alarm 
bells ringing on crossgate adjustment.

Martin

Warren Wallingford wrote:

>Oh boy.  Sounds like they milled the 'step' off of the flywheel.  The
>surface that the clutch plate contacts is supposed to be 15 thousands higher
>than the rest of the flywheel, where the pressure plate is bolted.  I'm
>surprised you can get it into any gear.  Maybe they took just enough off of
>the raised portion to mess things up.  Take it back.
>Warren at DMC
>  
>






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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 04:37:28 -0000
From: "Flavia" <frvianna_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean owners in NJ



Some of you might remember that last year I was helping organize a 
Classic Car show at my college. We are having the show again on May 
1. The last show was great, we had 70 cars, and we donated almost 
$1,500 to the American Cancer Society.

Check the link for more details and pictures from last year:
http://www.raritanval.edu/studentactivities/Phitheta/car_show2005.htm

Directions to the college: 
http://www.raritanval.edu/info/directions.html

Once more we will have a big garage sale, music, food, trophies and 
of course classic cars. We will have trivia, raffle and a "big check 
ceremony" with the American Cancer Society.

It's a lot of fun and it will be great to have a lot of DeLoreans, 
last year we had 3 of them and they were a big attraction to the 
visitors.

You may contact me directly frvianna at yahoo.com for more 
information.

Thank you

Flavia Vianna









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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 12:29:25 -0000
From: "morpheus34711" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Turn Signals



Hello all,

New DMC owner here, Just had a quick question regarding my turn
signals.  The lights work, but they don't flash like a good turn
signal should.  Is there a relay that controls this or could my
problem be in the steering column?  Thanks for helping a newb!

-Brandon Shelton
VIN #4205








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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 12:25:53 -0000
From: "morpheus34711" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Marker Lights/Parking Lights


This happened to me as well, and I found out that I had blown a fuse
for my left side lights.  I can't remember the number off hand, but
it's a 10 amp fuse and it's labeled on the fuse box cover.  Try that
and see if it works.

Brandon Shelton
VIN #4205
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know how the marker lights/parking lights
> are wired?  My left side is completely out, but my
> right side is working.





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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 07:15:28 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Marker Lights/Parking Lights


Sean, The head light switch supplies the voltage to the side marker lights.
Look for a bad headlight switch or the 1st position of the switch. The
headlight saver will save the switch if it hasn't melted yet.
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Sean Mulligan
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 9:33 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Marker Lights/Parking Lights

Does anyone know how the marker lights/parking lights
are wired?  My left side is completely out, but my
right side is working. 





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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 13:31:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?



You really are going to have to pull the pan to get it. There is no
way to know if the piece is in there or if it broke off while the
stick was out by a P.O. You could play with a magnet for a long time
and never pull it out because it may have slid away from the area
where the dipstick goes in. It is not that bad pulling the pan. On a
Delorean at least there is a drain plug. You could try sticking a
magnet in the drain, you may have better luck. I am not sure the piece
is even magnetic. There is a magnet on the pan inside. You will
probably have to get another dipstick. Don't forget you check the
final drive separately on an automatic. There is a plug on the side of
the transmission. You don't HAVE to pull the piece out. It won't cause
any damage if it is in there and you left it there.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> So I was checking the fluid in my auto tranny today to make sure the
> levels were good etc.  Warmed the car up, drove it around, brought it
> back to the garage, put it in park, hit the e-brake, and left it
>








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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 13:53:35 -0000
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>
Subject: Volvo Manuals



During the Mid-Atlantic Club spring social, one of the members(can't 
recall his name) was showing me the Volvo manuals he had for the B28F.  
I was hoping that he or anyone else out there that may have this info 
let me know the Volvo part number for those manuals.

Thanks
Luis & 3723








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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:05:39 -0500
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?


It's happened before.  The tab will catch on the case tube fitting and if
it's old and weak and you yank a little too hard, it breaks off.  There's
supposed to be a pretty strong magnet in the pan, so you're not likely to
get it out with another. It's not in the way of anything, so when it comes
time to service the transmission, you can drop the pan and retrieve the tab.
In the meantime, if you decide you want another dipstick, we got 'em. Part
number 110134, $38.84.
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=2289&Qty=1&ShowCart=true.

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 12:32 AM
Subject: [DML] Has this ever happened to anyone?

So I was checking the fluid in my auto tranny today to make sure the
levels were good etc.  Warmed the car up, drove it around, brought it
back to the garage, put it in park, hit the e-brake, and left it
running.  I pulled the dip stick out, wiped it clean, stuck it back
in, waited a second, and pulled it back out to take a reading.  Lo and
behold the flat metal piece at the end was MISSING!  GDSOB!!!  How the
h3ll did that happen??









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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:14:13 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?


Dave,

Your problem is sure unusual.  What exactly happened to work harden the 
end of the dip stick?  Was is rubbing against something?

Anyway,  it is likely the tip is at the bottom of the pan and will stay 
there.  There is also a screen to protect the pump from sucking up 
metal shavings.  It probably is not a big deal to worry about.

IF what is left of the dip stick still allows you to check the oil 
level you are still good.  Otherwise you might  want to get a 
replacement.

BOB






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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 07:22:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: Marker Lights/Parking Lights


 
Yeah, but if you're getting power one side of the perimeter lights, it can't be the switch.  There's only one wire leaving the headlight switch (the red/green one, if I remember correctly) that goes out to the perimeter lights.  -So this one's got to be the fuse (or at least past the LMS).
 
In either case, you should put relay in sequence, and *always* make sure your perimeter light connections are clean -particularly those in the fenders.  If your car has ever gotten wet, they're probably rusty. I had one light that the black plastic backing had slipped off, allowed water to enter, and rusted.  After breaking the bulb in my fingers trying to remove it, I cut the bulb out, polished the socket with a dremel, and replaced the bulb.  Then I pulled the black sheath out further from inside the fender, placed it back over the bulb socket, and silicone sealed everything.  (This will all be really obvious if you remove your side marker lights).
 
Rusty/dirty sockets makes higher resistance, makes hot wires, makes melted headlight switch.  If you don't check them, you're on borrowed time!
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063


John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:


Sean, The head light switch supplies the voltage to the side marker lights.
Look for a bad headlight switch or the 1st position of the switch. The
headlight saver will save the switch if it hasn't melted yet.
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Sean Mulligan
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 9:33 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Marker Lights/Parking Lights

Does anyone know how the marker lights/parking lights
are wired? My left side is completely out, but my
right side is working. 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:38:31 -0500
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Reverse grinding


You're right.  I posted too quickly.  The opposite would have to happen-that
is, the step would have to be higher than spec to cause the problem.  I'm
always leary of Delorean-dumb shops who re-surface the flywheel "just
because".  I've known a couple of instances where the flywheel was milled
flat and the car wouldn't move.  My reaction was instinctive, not
thoughtful.

You're also surely right about them buggering the cross-gate .  Makes you
wonder if they disconnected it at all.

Warren at DMC


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 5:46 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Reverse grinding


>
>
> Hi Warren
>
> I can change a clutch, but I do like to learn when I read something new!
> Why will knocking a fraction off the friction surface make that kind of
> difference? Surely it'll have the opposite effect of making the clutch
> slip rather than having it bite all the time? I'm sure I'm missing
> something here- I've really enjoyed reading your posts lately BTW :-)
>
> Personally I reckon they're buggered up the crossgate cable adjustment
> when pulling the gearbox out. It's the easiest way to get the box out





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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:04:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump Noise


Guys

As a D owner since 1982 and active on the list since
its inception, you might think I'd have all the
answers.  Not even close.  One problem that has
irritated me off and on since I first owned a D is
that damn fuel pump noise.

Now, when I go through Vegas on the way to SoCal and
hit 102º on Las Vegas Blvd I say, "Okay" it's the heat
and, sure enough, if I refuel and get some nice cool
gas from the stations underground tank, the noise goes
away - - for a while.

But, I recently did a 4000 miles trip in 12 days.  Car
ran like a Swiss watch.  Hottest ambient air temp I
experienced was under 80º.  Still, as soon as I hit a
half a tank, the buzz started.  And, the lower the
fuel level, the louder the noise.  Further, as soon as
I filled up, the noise stopped.  

Now, my pump is good.  I can find no kinked hoses. 
The hose in the tank is the "new and improved" model. 
And, yes, I even have the Bauerle air flow deflector
on the front of the fuel tank.  

Even just a couple hundred miles shy of 100,000 miles,
16867 is way too nice to have this "flaw".

Any help/ideas/advice will be greatly appreciated.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867    



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