From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2584
Date: Saturday, April 23, 2005 7:30 AM


There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Fuel Pump Noise
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. RE: Volvo Manuals
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. DMC's Goal - Thank You!
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Fuel Pump Noise
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Insecurity
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Radio antenna and power window
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: power window
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: Volvo Manuals
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

10. Re: Fuel Pump Noise
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Radio antenna and power window
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Turn Signals
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: Fuel Pump Noise
From: beatlesra1_at_dml_aol.com

14. RE: Reverse grinding
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

15. Re: Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

16. RE: Insecurity
From: "Michael Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

17. Re: Source of My misfire and other problems
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

18. Re: Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

19. Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

20. Auto clutch bleeder
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

22. RE: Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

23. Re: Source of My misfire and other problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Relay Contacts
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. RE: Fuel Pump Noise
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 13:36:17 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump Noise


Dick,
I to have done a lot of research in various ways, talking to Bosch about
pumps and Airtex about filter screens. Plus I listen and compare notes on
the chat I hear. I think it's several things.

1st, I have a new input filter screen on the pump that would eliminate any
input of fuel problems and stress of the pump to deliver the fuel. The white
filters tend to stop up faster because they are filtering at about 30 Micron
and cause the pump to stress and make noise. My new filter doesn't filter
that tight because the pump can pass larger micron particles and I'm not
using any more epoxy to attach the aluminum post.
  http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-filter-screens.jpg

#2. Then with the permission of Dave Bauerle I have had the Hot Air Dam that
goes behind the radiator fans rebuilt and water jet cut to cut down on the
heat from the fans heating up the fuel even more.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-fans.html

#3. Then, since our pumps are immersed in fuel and are self priming, I feel
the lower the fuel is the more it has to work to prime. Fuel like water
seeks it's level and the more in the tank the less it has to self prime.

#4. The other consideration is Voltage. Normally any electric motor that
doesn't have it's design supply of voltage and current will make more noise
and draw more current. I compare this to a ceiling fans that is operated by
a resistive dimmer switch. As the voltage goes down to adjust the fan speed
the hummm's goes up.

So, In summing up, I feel there is a combination of things that contribute
to pump noise and I have addressed as many as I can with product. The rest
is up to us, in making sure we have the voltage and current the fuel pump
motor needs, and the pump is immersed as best we can in fuel.

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
The search goes on.





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Dick Ryan
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 10:05 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuel Pump Noise




Guys

As a D owner since 1982 and active on the list since
its inception, you might think I'd have all the
answers.  Not even close.  One problem that has
irritated me off and on since I first owned a D is
that damn fuel pump noise.





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 13:40:48 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Volvo Manuals


Luis, There are several green books on Volvo B28F. Watch Ebay for them under
Volvo.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of trekkerlb
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 7:54 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Volvo Manuals


During the Mid-Atlantic Club spring social, one of the members(can't
recall his name) was showing me the Volvo manuals he had for the B28F.
I was hoping that he or anyone else out there that may have this info
let me know the Volvo part number for those 





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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 13:47:24 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?


I've owned my '81 for a year, and it has the Ducellier.  It actually
performs *just* well enough, but if I add anything more, like a
powered sub, etc...  I expect it will no longer be enough.

So, my question to those with electrical knowledge or experience with
a variety of alternators in the DeLorean: what are the costs and
benefits to higher and lower amperage replacement alternators?  Is
there an upper limit of what is recommended in the D?  What puts more
strain on the already weak system (in terms of small, old wires,
etc...), higher or lower amperage?  If I upgrade, I'm really looking
for what's best in terms of possibly increasing reliability of the
entire electrical system / preserving what's there, and providing a
bit more juice for anything else I may plug in.

Thanks!
--Greg
#2894





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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 11:58:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMC's Goal - Thank You!


Sitting here filing away articles that I've saved in relation to JZDs passing I
re-read a .gif file Mr. Muller posted of a personal letter from John DeLorean
after purchasing his car.

The second paragraph of that letter from Dec. 30, 1981 reads:
"It has now been several years since we undertook to bring another kind of
automobile into being. The goal was to design and build a car that would be as
safe as possible, reliable, comfortable, handle and perform well, be enormous fun
to drive and unmistakably elegant in appearance. We wanted people to be able to
buy a car which they truly liked and then keep it year after year, much as one
does one's home."

I sit here 24 years after that letter was written and am happy/thankful that
those goals were reached. My car is a daily driver. Winter salt and the idiots
that follow are the only reasons it hibernates 3-4 months out of the year. In 2
yrs & 2 months of ownership I have put on over 34k miles. And there has been only
ONE incident where I could have been left stranded if I had not had a spare
alternator belt in my utility belt for just such an emergency. On long trips the
ride has been quite comfortable. Even before I had my car lowered to the proper
designers intended specs it was still a nice, comfortable and well performing
ride. Even with the rising price of gas (don't care who's fault that is, that's
not the point here) I still go out in search of curvy country roads because it is
"enormous[ly] fun to drive". And about the "unmistakably elegant in
appearance"... I haven't gotten tired of going out to the garage just to look at
it sitting still. I often goto the window at home or work to catch a peek. Yes in
the back of my head there is a paranoia of some jerk doing something to my car,
but the reason for frequent looking is admiration. And I intend to keep my
DeLorean until I am physically unable to drive, which may outlast my current
home. 

I just want to say "thank you" for my car, First: to John, Second: to all of the
people who had a part in making his dream come true, Third: to all the friends &
vendors who helped me along the way and Fourth: to Mr. Muller for sharing that
letter.


Shannon Y  
happily putting on enjoyable miles like there is no tomorrow in
16506 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 14:04:09 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Noise


Sounds like a good theory. If part of the issue is that the the top part of 
the tank from which the fuel pump dangles essentially becomes a sounding 
board that amplifies the noise of the pump when the damping effect of the 
gasoline is removed, then you could stiffen the top of the tank by bonding 
sound deadening material or stiffening ribs to it. Perhaps sticking some 
stiff L-channels of aluminum, fiberglass, or something similar to the top of 
the tank using epoxy would help.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel Pump Noise
>Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 17:35:37 +0000
>
>
>
>Dick - My car does this too, but closer to an empty tank than yours.  I
>have a couple of observations, but no real solutions.  First, is that a
>tank that is less than full makes for a good speaker enclosure.  It's 
>plastic,
>and you have a vibrating mass hanging right at one of the less rigid 
>sections
>of the tank.  Higher temperature seems to help the fuel cavitate better 
>within
>the pump, which increases the noise.  Another thing to note is that the 
>bottom
>of the pump hangs about halfway into the tank, which indicates that the 
>fuel
>itself provides some audio insulation and probably cooling to the pump.  I
>haven't been able to determine if the pickup hose winds up contacting
>the tank.  If it does, that could be another source of noise being injected
>to the fuel tank.
>
>Short of keeping the tank more than half full, it's not much help, but 
>maybe
>it will spark some ideas for solutions...
>
>--
>Mike
>
>
>-------------- Original message from Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>: 
>--------------

> > Guys
> >
> > As a D owner since 1982 and active on the list since
> > its inception, you might think I'd have all the
> > answers. Not even close. One problem that has
> > irritated me off and on since I first owned a D is
> > that damn fuel pump noise.
> >
>







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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 19:18:41 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Insecurity



Hello all,
New Owner here (oh brother, here we go again!).. Sorry, just looking 
for the best way to search the posts for previous articles. In 
particular, I want to know more about installing a remote door 
opener/alarm system that would be compatible/recommended, but no 
results come up on the DB search. I ran across this on one of my 
searches:

Wings-A-Loft™ Elite Remote Door Opening System (man. trans.) 
Code: K2300DP-M
Price:$399.95
   
This system provides keyless entry (remote door lock/unlock) and 
remote door opening (left door/both doors) plus an integrated Auto 
Page RS855 LCD state-of-the-art alarm system with remote starting 
capability for manual (aka standard) transmissions. The system also 
includes one standard 4-button remote, one 5 button 2-way FM LCD 
transceiver, light weight actuators, linkage, and complete 
installation instructions.  

Does anyone have any information on the quality/performance of this 
item or any other they may be using? Thanks.

John in Maryland
vin# 7009








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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 20:46:32 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Radio antenna and power window



Hello all,

My power radio antenna (original) stopped retracting and is stuck in 
the up position. I can hear the motor running when it's supposed to 
be extending or retracting, but it does not engage the antenna. I 
took out the charcoal canister to get access and remove it to see if 
I could get it to re-engage, but obviously (at least it seems) I 
can't remove the unit without getting the antenna to retract. I've 
tried forcing it a little but it only goes down a few inches. Anyone 
how to force it down without breaking it?

Also my driver's side window motor recently developed a problem. It 
still works great except when putting the window up, the motor will 
not cutoff when the window reaches the full up position, it 
continues to push with loud clicking noises. I'm guessing there's 
some sort of contact that trips and cuts off the motor, and mine may 
have fallen out of position. Right now I'm working on getting the 
lower panel off to get in and see, still trying to figure out how to 
get at the screws holding in the grab handle. What should I be 
looking for once I gain access, or is it fairly obvious once you can 
see it?

Thanks for any help, and have a great weekend everyone!

Dave
#5968








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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 21:46:06 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: power window



There is no limit switch on the window (and no one-touch up/down 
either - this is a 1981 car). You are supposed to let go of the button 
when the window is all the way closed (or open). If it still clicks 
that means that the switch is stuck. Just press it momentarily in the 
other direction. That clicking noise is the window motor grinding 
itself to pieces. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> > Also my driver's side window motor recently developed a problem. It 
> still works great except when putting the window up, the motor will 
> not cutoff when the window reaches the full up position, it 
> continues to push with loud clicking noises. I'm guessing there's 
> some sort of contact that trips and cuts off the motor, and mine may 
> have fallen out of position. Right now I'm working on getting the 
> lower panel off to get in and see, still trying to figure out how to 
> get at the screws holding in the grab handle. What should I be 
> looking for once I gain access, or is it fairly obvious once you can 
> see it?








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 21:52:56 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Re: Volvo Manuals



Bosch:"Gasoline Fuel-Injection System K-Jetronic" 2001 edition. $25 
online

Volvo:
TP 30592/1 Service Manual, Repairs and maintenance Section 2(23), CI 
Fuel System B27, B28E/F (260 1975-1983)
TP 30430/1 Service Manual, Repairs and maintenance Section 2 (excl. 
group 23) B 27, B 28 Engines (260 1975-1983)
TP 30400/2 CO adjustment Section 2 Group 25 (B21F and B28F (sealed) 
1981- )
TP 11409/2 Engine B27F Repairs and Maintenance Section 2, Groups 
20,21,22,26. So far this is the manual that has been most helpful.

Thanks to Bill Robertson for sharing the knowledge.

Stephen
Vin 3601
 
> During the Mid-Atlantic Club spring social, one of the members
(Stephen) was showing me the Volvo manuals he had for the B28F.  
> I was hoping that he or anyone else out there that may have this 
info, let me know the Volvo part number for those manuals.
> 
> Thanks
> Luis & 3723








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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 22:13:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Noise



You have to be very careful when installing the pump not to twist the
hose. Even if you manage to get it all back the hose can collapse even
if it is not kinked. When it gets that hot it softens up. The fuel
pump passes a large amount of gas. If the hose softens up enough it
will collapse under the vacuum. I use a spring inside mine. I also
notice that some pumps are just noisier than others. I suspect that
they worked harder all their lives and are worn inside so they are
noisy. I agree that the filter on the end is pretty fine so you have
to make sure it is cleaned well. Any restriction will help to cause
cavitation which will cause the pump to be noisy. You have to be sure
all of the fuel pick-up parts are properly positioned and the 2 fuel
hoses coming out of the boot are not kinked or forced against the
tank. In extreme heat you may just have to live with the noise. Don't
forget the cooling system pipes run right alongside the tank and can
also be part of the problem in heating it up. You can also check out
the vapor system. The tank should have a slight positive pressure. If
it doesn't you may have a problem in the cannister or gas cap. A
positive pressure would prevent the bottom of the tank (or the top)
from vibrating. It may turn out to just be a noisy pump and you may
have to replace it. I guess it wouldn't hurt to have a spare (save the
old one, it works, it's just noisy). On th eplus side you know you
have to get fuel when it starts getting noisy! Cuts down the driving
range though. To cool the fuel down you could add cooling fins on the
fuel filter maybe. The fuel pump passes a LOT of gas. And maybe a
blast tube on the filter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> Sounds like a good theory. If part of the issue is that the the top
part of 
> the tank from which the fuel pump dangles essentially becomes a
sounding 
> board that amplifies the noise of the pump when the damping effect
of the 
> gasoline is removed, then you could stiffen the top of the tank by
bonding 
> sound deadening material or stiffening ribs to it. Perhaps sticking
some 
> s








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 22:18:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Radio antenna and power window



The drive cable is broken. If you push down on it while the motor is
running (after you shut off the radio) it may go back in. In any case
you either have to replace the mast assembly or the entire power unit.
You can cut the mast if you have to to get it out since you will have
to replace it anyway. The window does not have a cut-off switch so
just let go of the switch when it is all the way open. I do not like
to force the window all the way up or down. It is very hard on the
regulator and will eventually kill it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> My power radio antenna (original) stopped retracting and is stuck in 
> the up position. I can hear the motor running when it's supposed to 
> be extending or retracting, but it does not engage the antenna. I 
> too








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 22:20:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Turn Signals



If the flashers don't work like they should you have either dirty
connections, a burnt out bulb or a bad flasher. Not likely a problem
in the steering column.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "morpheus34711" <morpheus34711_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> New DMC owner here, Just had a quick question regarding my turn
> signals.  The lights work, but they don't flash like a good turn
> signal should.  Is there a relay that controls this or could my
> problem be in the steering column?  Thanks for helping a newb!
> 
> -Brandon Shelton
> VIN #4205








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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 17:55:49 EDT
From: beatlesra1_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Noise


I upgraded to John Hervey's new Fuel Pump last year and I never hear this  
Pump "Sing" like the OEM Pump..
 
Not to sound like a commercial but John Hervey has many solutions to the  
problems with our cars and know what he is talking about.
 
Chuck Darling
Vin# 6125
D.C.O. Member since 2001 (4 years already!)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 17:35:11 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Reverse grinding


Perhaps the carpet or floor mat is not allowing the clutch pedal to be fully
depressed.

Scott Mueller 002981


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Warren Wallingford
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 9:39 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Reverse grinding




You're right.  I posted too quickly.  The opposite would have to happen-that
is, the step would have to be higher than spec to cause the problem.  I'm
always leary of Delorean-dumb shops who re-surface the flywheel "just
because".  I've known a couple of instances where the flywheel was milled
flat and the car wouldn't move.  My reaction was instinctive, not
thoughtful.

You're also surely right about them buggering the cross-gate .  Makes you
wonder if they disconnected it at all.

Warren at DMC


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 5:46 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Reverse grinding


>
>
> Hi Warren
>
> I can change a clutch, but I do like to learn when I read something 
> new! Why will knocking a fraction off the friction surface make that 
> kind of difference? Surely it'll have the opposite effect of making 
> the clutch slip rather than having it bite all the time? I'm sure I'm 
> missing something here- I've really enjoyed reading your posts lately 
> BTW :-)
>
> Personally I reckon they're buggered up the crossgate cable adjustment 
> when pulling the gearbox out. It's the easiest way to get the box out






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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 20:20:53 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?



The red handle broke off of mine, leaving the metal shaft down in the tube. 
Replacement dip sticks are around $45.00.

I would drain the fluid, drop the pan and pull the broken tip out. 

On VIN 6058 the PO, or butchers/mechanics didn't even put the magnet back in 
the pan!

If you have not performed a transmission service, with new fluid, filter, 
gaskets, etc., it's a good time to do so.

Best Regards,
Mike Pack


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 20:26:31 -0400
From: "Michael Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: RE: Insecurity


I have heard nothing but good things about the "Wings-A-Loft" system and
the people behind it. This coupled with a Compustar remote start alarm
system are on my to-do list - along with a TON of other little things .
. . 

For searching on the mailing list, this is what I have found most
helpful:

First, go to www.google.com and when that page has opened, type in your
search term or terms (it is helpful to put a + in front of things that
you absolutely want to have on the pages that are returned and a - in
front of anything that you do not want returned).  Then add either
site:Dmcnews.com (this will search older posts) or site:projectvixen.com
(this will get you newer posts). Adding site:"domain name" limits the
results to that given domain.

Anything that is a multi-word term should go in quotes like "Water pump"
or "DeLorean Motor Company"

If I want to search on posts relating to the Wings-A-loft and the
compustar system  I would do the following 2 searches:

+"wings-a-loft" +compustar site:Dmcnews.com

and

+"wings-a-loft" +compustar site:projectvixen.com

Hope this helps!

Michael
VIN 3472

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of John Macias
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 3:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Insecurity




Hello all,
New Owner here (oh brother, here we go again!).. Sorry, just looking 
for the best way to search the posts for previous articles. In 
particular, I want to know more about installing a remote door 
opener/alarm system that would be compatible/recommended, but no 
results come up on the DB search. I ran across this on one of my 
searches:

Wings-A-LoftT Elite Remote Door Opening System (man. trans.) 
Code: K2300DP-M
Price:$399.95
   
This system provides keyless entry (remote door lock/unlock) and 
remote door opening (left door/both doors) plus an integrated Auto 
Page RS855 LCD state-of-the-art alarm system with remote starting 
capability for manual (aka standard) transmissions. The system also 
includes one standard 4-button remote, one 5 button 2-way FM LCD 
transceiver, light weight actuators, linkage, and complete 
installation instructions.  

Does anyone have any information on the quality/performance of this 
item or any other they may be using? Thanks.

John in Maryland
vin# 7009







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 15:33:44 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Source of My misfire and other problems


Got to thinking about the O2 sensor today and did a search on what 
contaminates them. The main thing that was mentioned on the bosch site 
is coolant  and fouled plugs and that got me thinking that when the 
head corroded through there was coolant coming out the tail pipes and I 
know that cylinder # 4 wasn't firing because of the bad plug wire. 
Soooooo, My thoughts are leaning towards a bad lambda probe. I picked 
up a new one today and will pop it in tomorrow and see if that doesn't 
take care of things. Maybe the quest for a decent idle is reaching the 
end.

Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 16:55:41 -0500
From: "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?


I had an R5-Le Car back in the early 90s and put one of the 80A Ducelliers
on it.  I believe that was the last time one of those gave satisfactory
service.  The electrical demands of the Delorean are just too great for the
medium-duty alternator that is the Ducellier.  If you have one and the A/C
is on, with the cabin fan turned to 4, the lights on, and the engine
pulling, you could just about shut yourself down signalling a lane change.
In this case more is definately better.  The 90A Motorola gave excellent
service in stock Deloreans.  It was a heavy-duty unit adapted from a marine
alternator.  The difference was not so much the extra 10 amps as the service
capability of the components.  We sell a re-manufactured heavy-duty
replacement for the Ducellier on a Delco frame, rated at 105A, that I like a
lot.  It will easily handle the everyday operating demands of the D plus any
electronic extras you care for. We've sold dozens of them and had very few
to come back.  They're easy to install and come with a one year warranty.
There's a picture behind the link.

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=2274&Qty=1&ShowCart=true.

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Zapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: [DML] Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?


>
>
> I've owned my '81 for a year, and it has the Ducellier.  It actually
> performs *just* well enough, but if I add anything more, like a
> powered sub, etc...  I expect it will no longer be enough.
>





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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 23:31:15 -0000
From: "Dave" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: Has this ever happened to anyone?


Thanks Warren...and everyone who replied.

It's amazing cause I don't recall having any difficulty pulling the
dipstick back out.  Oh well.

Dropping the pan it is.  Mmmmmm...fun.

Thanks!
Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Warren Wallingford" <warren_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> 
> It's happened before.  The tab will catch on the case tube fitting
and if
> it's old and weak and you yank a little too hard, it breaks off. 
There's







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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2005 01:02:50 +0000
From: "Charles Major" <charlesmajor_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Auto clutch bleeder


I know Toby was working on this project, but it was behind some other 
projects. I think this would be a natural sell everytime someone does the 
line and slave.







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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 20:28:20 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?


Go with the D110 from www.specialtauto.com for $179 with a 3 year  
warranty and 110 amps. $295 for the DMCH  105 amp is overpriced in my  
book for only a 1 year warranty. $295 i would expect a lifetime  
warranty for that price and installed.

I have the D110 and have nothing bad to say about it. Direct bolt on.  
Save yourself the $116 and buy other Delorean parts you may need.

Mark V




On Apr 22, 2005, at 4:55 PM, Warren Wallingford wrote:

>
>
> I had an R5-Le Car back in the early 90s and put one of the 80A  
> Ducelliers
> on it.  I believe that was the last time one of those gave satisfactory
> service.  The electrical demands of the Delorean are just too great  
> for the
> medium-duty alternator that is the Ducellier.  If you have one and the  
> A/C
> is on, with the cabin fan turned





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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 19:30:15 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?


Greg,
Most of the problems with the old alternators, ( Motorola & Ducy ) is they
reach their peek out put very quick and when you need /demand more power,
there is nothing left to give. It's trying to deliver the current needed to
run everything in the proper way and put a little back in the battery and it
winds up running or charging all the time with no rest period. In colder
climate, yes they will work better than hotter. But, again one it reaches
max output in current then that's it. That's why you see this melted stuff
oozing out the back.
Normal operation after the alternator heats, which will take 2 to 5 minuets
will drop 10 to 15% of it's rated output. So a 80 amp could drop to as low
as 68 amps and so on. All off the shelf alternators are rated cold in amps
for marketing purpose. They don't tell you what the hot output amp rating
is.
( All ) of my alternators are rated hot and normally will deliver more amps
if needed hot. Again, Example: average output when tested on the bench cold
of the D140 is around 155 amps cold and as it tested with a 100 amps load in
about 1 to 2 minuets will drop to just above 140 amps.  The D110, D130,
D140, D150 and up will deliver all the power the car needs to operate
properly and with enough to spare that it will be adding back to the
battery.
Let me say one more thing about higher amp alternators. The car only takes
what it needs to operate, so if I put a 180 amp rated alt on the car,
nothing will happen.
It's all amps available if needed.
I'll could almost guarantee that any Delorean running with the old
alternators will run better when a new one of mine is installed. I have sold
more that 250 around the world and going strong. I also give 24/7 service no
matter where you buy or inherited one of mine.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/alternators.html


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Greg Zapf
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 12:47 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Higher Amperage Alternator - costs / benefits?




I've owned my '81 for a year, and it has the Ducellier.  It actually
performs *just* well enough, but if I add anything more, like a
powered sub, etc...  I expect it will no longer be enough.













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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2005 02:25:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Source of My misfire and other problems



An O2 sensor (aka Lambda Probe) can also be contaminated by leaded gas
or silicone gasket sealer. The leaded gas isn't so bad because once it
is used up it is gone. The silicone is BAD because when you replace
the sensor the gasket sealer will continue to contaminate every sensor
you put in. You MUST use ONLY "SENSOR SAFE" silicone gasket sealer. It
has to say so right on the tube. If you have any doubts you have to
disassemble the parts that are contaminated with the sealer and remove
it. You will know you have a contaminated engine if, when you replace
the O2 sensor, it soon fails again. They last for 60,000 miles but the
EPA has determined that they are lifed (in this application) for
30,000 so at least 90% of installed sensors will be operational at
30,000 miles. That is unless they get contaminated. A fouled sensor
will usually come back to life after you get the cylinder firing again
and the sensor gets hot enough for a while. Use Never-Seize on the O2
sensor, just be careful not to get it on the probe, just the threads.
Again, to verify that the ECU is good you can test it as per the
Workshop Manual.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 




-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> Got to thinking about the O2 sensor today and did a search on what 
> contaminates them. The main thing that was mentioned on the bosch site 
> is coolant  and fouled plugs and that got me thinking that when the 
> head corroded through there was coolant coming out the tail pipes and I 
> 








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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2005 02:33:18 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Relay Contacts



Group, 
I was ask off line about a RPM relay problem and how it would effect 
the fuel pump operation. Relay contacts get burn't as they open and 
close and set up a resistance so voltage and current don't pass very 
well. Thus we have a limited operation.  
In an emergency or to buy a little time If you can pop the top off
any 
relay and get to the contacts take about a 2" to 3" x 3/16" wide
piece 
of 180 or better emery cloth sand paper and fold it over, put it 
between the contacts and swipe it back and fourth 2 or 3 times. This 
is what is called Burnishing the contacts. Don't keep on doing it 
because more doesn't get better. Don't over do it or you will cut off 
all the contact surface if it isn't already gone. The surface of a 
contact is normally silver plated for better conductivity.
All your doing is resurfacing the contact area to get rid of the
burnt 
crusty material that is stopping the contacts from touching good and 
solid so you can get on down the road. Repalace the relay as soon as 
you can and keep the old one and tool as a spare. 
By the way, If you realy get in a pinch, the smooth side of a 
fingernail file will work if you have one of them with you. Peal the 
smooth side off so the material won't be so thick.(:-)).
John Hervey
  








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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 22:17:06 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump Noise


Keep in mid it's already sitting in rubber even though it's a little on the
stiff side. Also, don't forget if you have old or stiff hoses they may be
rubbing against the fiberglass. Insulate them with some winter pipe foam if
you have nothing else.
John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Joseph Kuchan
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 1:04 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel Pump Noise




Sounds like a good theory. If part of the issue is that the the top part of
the tank from which the fuel pump dangles essentially becomes a sounding
board that amplifies the noise of the pump when the damping effect of the





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