From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2588
Date: Tuesday, April 26, 2005 5:35 PM


There are 23 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Alternative skirack
From: "Mads de Bruin" <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>

2. Re: Re: Best...Birthday...Cake...Ever...
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

3. Burnout and new sound
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Stainless Bumper Letters
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Stainless Bumper Letters
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: possibility of North Carolina Service Center opening
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Oil Pressure Gauge
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Marker Lights/Parking Lights
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Cracked Windshield
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>

10. Re: Re: Best...Birthday...Cake...Ever...
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: Oil Pressure Gauge
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Re: Stainless Bumper Letters
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: possibility of North Carolina Service Center opening
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Re: Cracked Windshield
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

15. Re: Cracked Windshield
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Burnout and new sound
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Oil Pressure Gauge
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. Chevy 4.2L V6 fit
From: "stephenucedu" <steve100_at_dml_cinci.rr.com>

19. Re: Burnout and new sound
From: "drew" <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>

20. Re: Re: Burnout and new sound
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

21. Re: Re: Fuel Pump Noise (Moving the Pump)
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

22. Convex mirrors
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

23. Re: possibility of North Carolina Service Center opening
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 07:25:48 -0000
From: "Mads de Bruin" <debruin_at_dml_dia.eur.nl>
Subject: Alternative skirack



My mother has a pair of ski's from Volant. They are stainless steel 
ski's so I have been trying for two years now to convince her to give 
them to me so I could place them on my DeLorean.
Unfortunately she thinks they are great ski's and will probably be 
using them for the next few years. 
Because I wanted to sand off the print of the ski's, I searched the 
internet for a used pair. About two months ago I found a nice pair 
for not too much money. I began sanding them and after a while the 
print was of. Now I have a great pair of stainless steel ski's but no 
ski rack.
Thanks to Stian Birkeland and Ray Petragallo I got some pictures and 
description about the skirack so I could think of making one myself.
I wanted to have an original but last week one started at $125 on 
ebay and I think it sold for $350. Because it was just for fun I 
found that a bit expensive.
So I made one myself. I bought two pipes that they use to bolt to a 
roofrack and made them to size so they wouldn't stick out of the 
luggagerack. I drilled two wholes in each of them on the same 
location as where the original rack would fit and bolted them on.
Then I bought a pair of skiholders that fitted on the pipes and I had 
a place to fix my skis!
I put some pictures in the Files section because I got an error in 
the Photo's section. In the Files section there is a folder 
called 'skirack alternative'.
Here you can see pictures of the rack which I made yesterday on our 
annual meeting of the Dutch DeLorean Club.
If you want a bigger picture with a higher resolution, send me an e-
mail off list and I will send them to you.

Mads de Bruin
Netherlands
#02010








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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 07:01:04 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Best...Birthday...Cake...Ever...


That low rider looks like Patricks Car 
 
I am waiting for Patrick to come to me for a new body after he grinds  
through his by bottoming out on potholes in Columbus.
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 11:22:06 -0400
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Burnout and new sound


Group, 

Today I said something kinda dumb but I just HAD to do it.  At work I had my car in the garage and I was just starting to leave when one of the guys started trying to get me to squeel the tires while I left.  I always politely decline but then everyone started piling on the peer pressure......so I gave in.  I dumped the clutch at about 3500 rpm on a painted floor and left at least 5 feet of Michelin on my way out.   

Now it seems like there is some odd noise while the car is running.  At idle and with the car at rest it is most noticeable.  It's hard to explain but it sounds and feels like ultra-low frequencies or resonance, like there are frequencies that have suddenly appeared ever since that burn-out.  While I am driving the car it isn't so noticeable and in fact it makes me wonder if it's all in my head, but as soon as I get to a stoplight or something i'm convinced it's there.  It's driving me crazy wondering if I damaged something but for the life of me I can't figure out what would make this noise.  It's like my engine just started sounding more 'bass-y'.  It doesn't matter if the car is stopped or rolling, or if the clutch is in or out.  There are no other symptoms besides the sound change.  It's not like a rattle or ping or anything, it's just like someone turned the bass control up on my engine sound. Everything else is just like it should be. 

Anyone have any ideas or if I should even be concerned?  And I already know what most of you will say about childish irresponsibility.  But you don't understand the peer pressure! LOL 

Andy 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 16:11:42 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Bumper Letters


Dave is correct the majority on the vendors use 3M VHB..  The only 
tip after a good cleaning of the area is insuring the proper temp.  I 
just installed the door sill letters and used a heat gun to warm up 
the adhesive (not hot enough to bubble it, but warm enough to make 
holding the letters uncomfortable in your hand).  Air temp above 70.

This insures that the adhesive flows and creates a good bond.

Thanks for the plug Dave....

Randal - "The 3M Guy"
www.az-d.org

PS - Last weekend the AZ-D hosted Dan & Don from the DeLorean Motor 
Center here in Phoenix for a tech session as we have also done with 
P.J. Grady, & DMCH.  I must say that we DeLoreans owners are truly 
lucky to have the outstanding support for our cars that we do! 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> They usually have the world's strongest 3M (Hi Randall!) sticky 
tape already on them. Just make sure you get the bumper very clean 
and dry before you put them on, you get one chance.





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 17:52:29 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Bumper Letters


No instructions were included.  They do have rubber cement on the 
back, but I just wanted to know if it wears out over time, and if 
there is another product to help keep them on.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> They usually have the world's strongest 3M (Hi Randall!) sticky 
tape already on them.





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 10:54:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: possibility of North Carolina Service Center opening


This gentleman, Jeff, that Louie has been talkinn
about is extremely knowledgeable.  He has helped me
and Casey with some things that have left us baffled
for weeks at a time.  I've known him for a little
under 2 years now, and I feel he is one of the more
completel DeLorean experts I've met since joining the
community July 2003.  I second the idea that Jeff is
not looking to compete with any other vendor, as that
would crack the integrity of the community, but rather
he offers a realistic and unique way of doing some
FINE quality work on DMCs.  

I'm not typing this to plug for him; I'm typing it
because I know it's true, and I support my friends in
such a unique attempt at starting a service center for
a one-of-a-kind car.  After all, when DeLoreans first
came out, there was really only DMCA...

Jeremiah


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 20:01:40 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Oil Pressure Gauge



Hello fellow DMCers,
I could use some advise.  1. All my gauges seem to function except
for the oil pressure.  Is there a link to a picture/info on where I
can find the sensor/wiring before I remove the binnacle (assuming it
is the gauge).  
2. Is there any priority (factual or assumed) as to
which electrical fixes\updates are most important (i.e. relay update 
kit, headlight saver switch, ducy alt., etc)?  I will carry with me 
some extra parts when traveling (belts, fuses, etc), but don't want
any major problems that could have been avoided.  As far as I can
tell, only the fan fail relay bypass has been installed.
3. I have a portable GPS system, but the cigarette lighter socket
will not power it (it does turn the cigarette element red hot).  Any 
suggestions.  Thanks.

John

vin# 7009








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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 12:20:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Marker Lights/Parking Lights


Thanks everyone.  Turns out it was the fuse.  One of
those things you could kick yourself on.  That's even
the first place I checked!

-Sean Mulligan
 vin #10054


--- sandorp1 <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:
> Sean,
> Before you go on a major mission, an easy first
> place to go is the fuse box. 





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 20:48:53 -0000
From: "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net>
Subject: Cracked Windshield



Well, I am finally getting around to replacing my cracked windshield. 
Like everything I have done on #17084 I double-check everything to 
make sure I am doing it right.

Here is a pic of the cracked windshield 
http://www.oneskydojo.com/delorean/windsh.JPG

I will bring it to a local shop that had a look at the manual and the 
car. They said there should be no problem. I plan on ordering the 
rear view mirror pad along with a couple of new spacers (at the 
bottom of the glass). 

The crack has been there couple of years. It looks like the spacer at 
the bottom is the problem but I have been told otherwise. When I 
first inquired about replacing the windshield, someone said the 
passenger side post has some kind of recess or channel in it. 
Apparently this area can be very tight and now allow expansion of the 
glass so it cracks at the fulcrum (the spacer). Does this sound 
familiar to anyone? If so is there a good way to repair it while the 
windshield is out?

I tried searching both archives and can't find my original post or 
anything else mentioning this. 

I plan on taking pics of the procedure and will post them. 

Mike
#17084

P.S.
Anything I should be doing while the windshield is out?









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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 18:28:56 -0400
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Best...Birthday...Cake...Ever...


At least it would have company being parked next to Ken's trailer queen 
when its being repaired.  Maybe it could tell 'Gigawat' what its like 
being driven on the road...god knows its been so long since that car has 
seen daylight.  :)

By the way, I heard a DeLorean expert on the radio in Cincinnati talking 
about the advantages in handling once a D is lowered---maybe I can get a 
copy of that show for Ken.

-Patrick C.
1880


kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>That low rider looks like Patricks Car 





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 00:16:42 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Gauge



 
 Hello did u try replacing the oil pressure sending unit?? its next to the oil filter..that should fix ur problem..
Dave..vin 15275


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_h...> wrote:

> Hello fellow DMCers,
> I could use some advise.  1. All my gauges seem to function except
> for the oil pressure.  Is there a link to a picture/info on where I
> can find the sensor/wiring before I remove the binnacle (assuming it
> is the gauge).  





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 21:56:05 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Stainless Bumper Letters


I keep hearing all these stories on Bumper Letters and sill inserts.
A few Years ago Evil Dan went through the process at his spring  social.
 
The adhesive as Dave stated is usually 3M adhesive high tack Ultra high  bond
I also have used two other brands that tend to  have a higher initial  tack 
since people usually do not clean the bumpers as well as they should 
 
ANY repeat ANY silicone residue on the bumper changes the chemical reaction  
of the adhesive to the bumper or sill.
 
This was demonstrated at the Mid Atlantic spring social a few years back  
when one member complained that the adhesive did not stick.
 
He put it on and it came right off along with a bunch of dirt and  oil.
 
I patiently reapplied the adhesive and this time I cleaned the sill and  down 
it went and stayed.
 
It does not matter whose letters you use the rule applies to all.
 
CLEAN, Clean and CLEAN again then stick it on and be careful because now it  
won't come off.
 
To clean you may use a silicone de greaser BUT after that use a mild soap  
and water and a scrub brush and clean it again until the black almost has a  
white blush to it. 
 
NOW take the alcohol pad that most suppliers include and wipe it one more  
time and then install the letters. Don't miss because it is not coming  off.
 
Take the same letter and put it on an  unclean bumper and it will fall  to 
the ground as soon as  you let it go despite the fact that the  adhesive used 
holds aircraft parts together at minus 60 degree  temperatures.
 
This conversation comes up about every two years so I hope that  you all now 
are experts at installing bumper letters and  sill inserts.
 
Have fun I do think the dress up the car nicely
 
Ken 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:03:58 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: possibility of North Carolina Service Center opening


As I understand it, Jeff is looking to provide service, not parts.
That would definitely not affect any current vendors (in fact he would
be buying from them for his installation).

Moreover, Jeff's real forte is customization -- a market not really
served by any of the existing mechanics. He's been building
relationships with powder coaters, muffler houses, upholstery shops(?)
that are not as common in this community as other marques. Not quite
Curtis caliber, but headed in that direction.

And he would of course be situated midway between New York and Florida
for routine repairs. For example, it makes no sense to travel or ship
a car that far from the middle Atlantic states for a simple tune up.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah
<hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> This gentleman, Jeff, that Louie has been talkinn
> about is extremely knowledgeable.  He has helped me
> and Casey with some things that have left us baffled
> for weeks at a time.





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:21:37 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cracked Windshield


That crack looks exactly like the one I caused in my windshield many 
years ago by jacking up the car too high with a single jack at the 
lift point just behind the front wheel. It seems the body does flex 
a lot especially if the body bolts to the frame are loose and/or the 
door is open.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> Well, I am finally getting around to replacing my cracked 
windshield.





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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 03:32:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cracked Windshield



There is no better way to repair the windshield than in the car. You
can expect to destroy a cracked windshield in the removal process. If
it is repairable at all then in all cases do it in the car. If you are
watching the procedure the shop should remove all traces of the old
glue, place a primer on the bare fiberglass and the windshield, lay a
bead of caulk as smoothly and continuosly as possible and then in the
first attempt lay the glass right on while the caulk is still warm.
They should avoid trying to reposition the glass once it hits the
caulk. The 2 wire clips at the bottom are there to hold the glass till
it cools. You may have to bend them up slightly so the glass can't
slip over them and crack. Put the mirror on the next day. Best not to
drive the car for a day too. If the small grounding wires are
corroded, missing, or broken fix them up when you replace the
mouldings. Best to also replace the small screws. While the windshield
is out you can clean the dash easily and tuck in the vinyl on the "a"
posts and reglue if you have to. After a couple of days clean the
glass thoughly and make sure the wiper blades do not scratch the
glass. Replace them if they are old. I like Rain-X on the outside and
inside Rain-X anti-fog. You do not always need to use the spacers. The
shop will make a judgement call on that. If you can get them to
install without then they cannot cause the new windshield to crack.
There is no recess on the "A" pillar.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike Walsh" <mike_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> 
> 
> Well, I am finally getting around to replacing my cracked windshield. 
> Like everything I have done on #17084 I double-check everything to 
> make sure I am doing it right.
> 
> Here is a pic of the cracked windshield 
> http://www.oneskydojo.com/delorean/windsh.JPG
> 
> I will bring it to a local shop that had a look at the manual and the 
> car. They said there should be no problem. I plan on ordering the 
>








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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 03:37:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Burnout and new sound



I would check for exhaust leaks. It is possible you blew out an
exhaust gasket. Another possability is you blew a baffle in the
muffler or damaged the catalytic converter. A remote possablity is the
rear window came loose. Push down on the fiberglass in the middle on
the bottom. If it moves away from the glass you will need to reseal
the rear window.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Group, 
> 
> Today I said something kinda dumb but I just HAD to do it.  At work
I had my car in the garage and I was just starting to leave when one
of the guys started trying to get me to squeel the tires while I left.
 I always politely decline but then everyone started piling on the
peer pressure......so I gave in.  I dumped the clutch at about 3500
rpm on a 








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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 03:59:45 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Gauge


1. Gauge is most likely OK -- problem is most likely the sending unit.
Disconnect the wire and *BRIEFLY* touch it to the block (ignition on).
If the gauge needle pegs itself, sender is bad.

2. Almost as many opinions as oil change questions...

3. Cigarette lighter is not US sized. I think Rich Acuti recently
engineered a way around this (search the archives for his name --
doesn't post too often so you should find the message pretty quickly).

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 04:01:02 -0000
From: "stephenucedu" <steve100_at_dml_cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Chevy 4.2L V6 fit



List,

I have been behind in reading my digests. I just noted several
discussions about what type 
of engines would be an easy transplant into a Delorean for more
power. One person stated 
that by his measuerments the 4.2L Chevy V6 would not fit, in that it
was too long. 

Well, thats true but not true. It was about 1 inch too long on my
setup. However, there is 
quite a bit of room in the very back of the engine compartment,
between the rear wall and 
the tail lights. For mine, an area from this wall was cut out to make
room for the pulleys.

The engine is the 4.2L V6, with aluminum heads, 3/4 cam, 4 barrel
Edelbrock carb, MSD 
electronic ignition, headers, and 2 mufflers. As you can see from the
pictures, there is 
PLENTY of room all around the engine.

I have uploaded the pictures showing how this can be done to the
archive, in the PICTURE 
section, labeled as Chevy Engine Fit (or Chevy Eng...).

Good luck to those who choose to transplant. Once its done, its so
easy to work on 
(especially carb units), and, the ride is tremendously exhilarating.

steve
vin# 1725








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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 04:35:00 -0000
From: "drew" <Soma576_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Burnout and new sound



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> I would check for exhaust leaks. It is possible you blew out an
> exhaust gasket. Another possability is you blew a baffle in the
> muffler or damaged the catalytic converter. A remote possablity is the
> rear window came loose. Push down on the fiberglass in the middle on
> the bottom. If it moves away from the glass you will need to reseal
> the rear window.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 

David,

my cat has been removed and replaced with Ed Uding's straight-pipe. How 
would I diagnose an exhaust leak or blown muffler baffle?  And when I 
am accererating say onto the freeway I go into the higher RPM's all the 
time. Why would a burn-out cause a gasket rupture?

Andy








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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 00:50:31 -0500
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Burnout and new sound


Andy,

What you've described doesn't sound like a blown exhaust gasket or a muffler
problem. I really don't think a one time shot at burning a little rubber (
jeez can you do that with a DeLorean? ) would cause major problems. Worst
case scenario is something happened to the clutch but I'd suggest driving it
for a while to let any "guilt" related issues subside. I don't mean to make
this sound like you're imagining things. I think you're like me in that you
are working on the car yourself and looking very closely at results. When
you push the car to a level that you conceive as possibly causing
damage....well, sometimes you react by being over critical and start to look
for problems. If there is a problem I'd look closely at various engine and
drive train components to see if anything may be touching some part of the
car and possibly be causing the harmonic sound you hear. The sounds you
describe don't sound as much like a mechanical  problem as something
resonating through the car.  You say you only really notice it at idle
speeds and it seems like a low resonance which doesn't fit a mechanical
problem. One would assume problematical mechanical sounds would increase
along with the everything else as the car accelerates.

Bruce Benson







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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 11:10:11 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Pump Noise (Moving the Pump)


Hi all

I'm not sure if I can agree completely with this. I mean, if you mount the 
pump 'just anywhere' it might take a long time for it to prime if it starts 
dry. Long enough to ruin the pump. So, I would keep it close to the tank. 
One thing is for sure - the pump DOES NOT need to be mounted inside the 
tank. I have seen identical pumps mounted on top of the fuel tank that 
lasted for many many miles (on different cars) without any pump inside the 
tank. A good example is a Mitsubishi Starion. Where is uses the same pump as 
the DeLorean. The pump is clamped to the top of the gas tank. It's connected 
to a metal pick up line with a short piece of rubber fuel line. The metal 
line goes all the way down inside the tank and has a pickup screen at the 
end. And the tank itself is deeper than our tank. It's about 28cm deep (11 
inches). The pump in this car lasted for the life of the car - the engine 
blew at over 200k miles. Even when I took it out it was still nice and quiet 
and it went in my friends car. So, I definitely move the pump outside the 
tank and make the pickup and return hoses out of metal. As a matter of fact 
I'm working on a setup like this for my car... and if it works good I will 
offer it to other DeLorean owners. I want to forget about the pump and the 
noise once and for all.

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...



----- Original Message -----
> Of course there's absolutely no reason the pump has to be in the tank.
> In fact, there's no reason it has to come BEFORE the filter and
> accumulator. You could mount it anywhere with decent air flow, like a
> frame rail design. <SNIP> 






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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 11:19:14 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Convex mirrors


Hello all

I will have some information about the convex mirrors in the next few days. 
For now 99% of people interested want the extended convex with the heating 
pads. I will provide the mirrors (glass), the heaters and crimp on 
connectors. I'm trying to locate a source for the plug that's already in the 
door to make it a plug-and-play setup but that might be a problem. Those 
connectors seem to be no longer available. The solution would be to just cut 
the original connector inside the door and replace it with something modern. 
I still have very few people really interested. And it will probably be even 
less when it comes time to place the orders. I'm thinking about ordering a 
full 100 sets but I will have trouble paying for all that :) I'll let you 
all know in a few day. Keep watching the DML for more news soon.

Anyone else interested?? Let me know by private email.

Take care
Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...






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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 06:00:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: possibility of North Carolina Service Center opening


Don't forget about Bauerle Automotive in Delaware, OH. 
http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/Bauerle.htm
He's even a full service "prefered DeLorean vendor" and only 7hrs 58min from
Charolette, NC!

Plug: 
Dave Bauerle along with Rob Grady will be at the Stragand/Plakosh Tech Session in
Alquippa, PA [Pittsburg] Sat. May 21st.
http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/events.htm

Shannon Y
16506



-------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 00:07:03 -0000
   From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: possibility of North Carolina Service Center opening

>>snip<<

 Jeff feels that there is a market 
for these kind of services, most notably when for us Carolina owners 
when the nearest service centers are PJ Grady and DMC Florida, both 
of which are more than 10 hours away. 

>>snip<<

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC

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