From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2591
Date: Thursday, April 28, 2005 10:02 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: What gas octain to use
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

2. RE: What parts should I carry with me? (3 steps to being FULLY prepared)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Door Opener Adapter
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: What parts should I carry with me?
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. RE: Re: HELP! - STUCK IN THE EXHAUST
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. Re: What gas octain to use
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: HELP! - STUCK IN THE EXHAUST
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: What gas octain to use
From: Johan <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>

9. Re: The return of Gigawatt Fun reprisal to previous post.
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Re: DCS Magazine
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: The return of Gigawatt Fun reprisal to previous post.
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Re: The return of Gigawatt Fun reprisal to previous post.
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: HELP! - STUCK IN THE EXHAUST SYSTEM VALLEY OF HELL
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Trans noise
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Door Opener Adapter
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

16. What ever happened with the upgraded D from Houston?
From: "squall67584" <squall67584_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: What gas octain to use (Chuck)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

18. Re: Door Opener Adapter
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: What gas octain to use
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

20. Re: Trans noise
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Re: HELP! - STUCK IN THE EXHAUST SYSTEM VALLEY OF HELL
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. RE: What parts should I carry with me?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

23. Re: What gas octain to use (Improved Formulations)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

24. Re: The return of Gigawatt Fun reprisal to previous post.
From: DMC Erik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. RE: What parts should I carry with me?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 17:18:53 -0000
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: What gas octain to use


I live in Massachusetts.  I think it's 91. Maybe it is 93 - just going 
from memory and will have to check the pumps out.






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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 10:35:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: What parts should I carry with me? (3 steps to being FULLY prepared)


I have a '68 Camaro that I used to drive around to a
lot of local car shows/cruises, etc.  I used to carry
my full tool box, a hydraulic jack, jumper cables,
extra fluids (oil/tranny/antifreeze).  The trunk was a
mess, but I felt "prepared".  You know how many times
I used that stuff?  Zippo.  I finally took out
everything except the jumper cables.  Yeah I was a bit
nervous the first few times out (like operating
without a net), but knock-on-wood, I've never had a
problem.  Now this is all for essentially local
(within 50 miles) distances from home.  For longer
trips, I'd still consider packing some tools/supplies.

As I've been building my D, I found myself falling
back into that "I'd better carry a such-and-such
wrench" mentality, but I'm thinking I'll do my best to
put it together well, address known weaknesses and
leave it at that.  Is it possible that I'll break down
and ruin my day?  Sure.  But I hardly consider
replacing a Delorean fuel pump on the side of the road
in the rain a great day either.

If you want to be FULLY prepared, you only need to do
three things:

1. Add a trailer hitch to your D.
2. Hook a car trailer up to it.
3. Drive your Honda onto the trailer.

Happy motoring!  ;  )

Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 17:41:57 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door Opener Adapter


Good luck my friend, I too have been looking. They have not produced 
any new fanzillas for over a year (I spoke with the marketing 
director) and it will be many more months before any new ones are 
made. I just can't believe no one else would manufacture a 
substitute! My next recourse is to cruise local junkyards and hope I 
can find one still installed. Good idea?

John in Rockville, MD
vin# 7009


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, lordshill_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Where were you able to purchase the Zilla product?  From what I  
understand no one has them right now as they are not being produced 





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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 10:49:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What parts should I carry with me?


Aaron,
Just a few helpful items in my kit:
- extra set of belts I keep in the jack compartment
- a big burtha 10-12 inch long screw driver (to set the tension of the Alternator
belt when replacing)
- an extra 10mm open/closed end wrench (you can never have enough of the #10)
- 2 over sized trash bags to put around a flat tire riding shotgun (not really
needed if you have a luggage rack stowed in the trunk)
- cheap one dollar rain poncho & dynamo flashlight (
http://www.mfagifts.com/prod_det.cfm?id=15 ) because you never have trouble at
night... in the rain ;-)
- spare fuses
- duct tape
- zip ties

Shannon Y
16506

---------------

Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2005 19:34:19 -0400
   From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: What parts should I carry with me?





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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 12:50:03 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: HELP! - STUCK IN THE EXHAUST


To add one more thing: When it all goes back together again be sure to use 
liberal amounts of anti-seize so that next time it isn't hard to work on.

-Joe Kuchan



>From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
>Subject: [DML] Re: HELP!  - STUCK IN THE EXHAUST
>
>You only have to remove the muffler to pull the engine/trans. Leave
>the Cat and crossover in place.
>After doing all this exhaust-type work on an engine out of the car,
>I'd never do it any other way.





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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 19:48:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: What gas octain to use



If your engine is pinging on regular gas you have to check the following:
Timing, mechanical AND vacuum advance
Temperature, if the engine runs too hot it will ping
Spark plugs, if too hot a heat range they will glow
Vacuum leaks, if large they will lean out the mixture
Carbon deposits
Bad ignition wires, if they break down the engine will misfire and
sound like detonation.
It is also possible, if you are not using a branded gas, that they are
not giving you 87 octane or there could be water in the fuel. Just
some things to look at.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
>  
> Mine does the same thing!  Never have figured out why.  The plugs,
wires and cap are a few years old, but never seem bad to me.  I had my
car at Grady's in March and Pat checked the fuel pressures, mixture,
etc. and still I have have pinging on low octane gas.  It's not > DCO








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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 19:39:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: HELP! - STUCK IN THE EXHAUST



Exhaust work is the WORST! Pulling the engine is a lot of work, don't
forget the A/C compressor has to come off and hang somehow. I use an
acetalyne torch to make things come apart easily. It has never failed
me on stubborn fasteners. It is a little tricky to get the cross-over
pipe out but it can be manuvoured to come out. It is best to just do
the whole system as long as you have some of it apart and you have all
the tools out and you are dirty. Pull the sensor if it is in the way.
I pulled the whole exhaust system out without pulling the engine to do
the twin turbo set-up and once I broke or removed all the nuts, studs,
and bolts it was EASY! BTW pulling the exhaust was the hardest part of
the turbo install! Use Never-Seize when you put things back so it is a
little easier in the future.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> 
> You only have to remove the muffler to pull the engine/trans. Leave 
> 








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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 22:12:56 +0200
From: Johan <dmc_at_dml_tranceponder.se>
Subject: Re: What gas octain to use


Hi,

I use 98 octane

johan
5425

Konrad Posch wrote:

>According to the owners manual, you should use only 91 octane.   By the way, where do you live that you can buy 91 octane, all they sell here (texas) is 87,89, and 93?





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 20:22:27 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The return of Gigawatt Fun reprisal to previous post.



Lowering ny car was really rewarding for me, best thing Ive done for
the car. Second only to Lockzilla and new tires.
Harry Vin #2696








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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 17:33:33 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: DCS Magazine


You should see at the bottom a selection for Vol 1  issue 1-4 and Vol 2 issue 1-4 that will get you the set of four at one click or just send me a check at the address on the home page 
Either way is fine.
 
Ket me know if you have any further problems 
we take paypal or credit cards
 
Ken 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: sandorp1 <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: [DML] Re: DCS Magazine

How do you subscribe?  I went to the website and clicked on 
Magazines.  I don't see a link to subscribe





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 17:36:11 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: The return of Gigawatt Fun reprisal to previous post.


 You are correct the car is a black automatic but for the pictures and such it will do fine and all the stuff is just bolt on.
 
But technically it is wrong 
but they love it 
 
so anyone wanting to play around with one of the possible raffle cars I will be at the warehouse Friday night 
 
Pizza is on me.
 
Ken
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: [DML] The return of Gigawatt Fun reprisal to previous post.

Ken K gives me a hard time for lowering my car, yet he sees nothing wrong with converting a perfectly good DeLorean into a BTTF car?





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 17:52:24 -0400
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: The return of Gigawatt Fun reprisal to previous post.


Shannon 
 
good response
As I stated I was just funning with Patrick and I guess I do pick on you a bit in fun.
But you have hit most of the points right on.
 
Again Patrick bought the car and it was in good enough shape to be in a concours and if he wanted to he could put it back easily. Yes I knew he was a kid at the time. That was kinda obvious.  He has done great with the car and I wish we had  more D owners like him.  (More to pick on LOL)
 
He has done a great job and between you and Him I think anyone that needs Help on the door launchers and aftermarket door systems can get some good advice from both.  From what you guys did at the tech session you have door disassembly down to a science. (lots of practice pays off)
(So here is a plug for these two when you have door problems, pester Shannon and Patrick)
 
You are correct that I do not care for the lowering of the cars.
Patricks first words were I hit a bump and hit bottom which prompted this discussion in the first place,
And yes I did do the shocks for those that wanted to lower it anyway. 
Just because I don't like it does not mean someone else doesn't.  As you know I only put cars back togther to factory specs.
 
As far as the concours I will get my first place some time but if I won it earlier then I could not have competed for five years so maybe it was a Omen for the car.
 
As far as the BTTF car I am amazed at the stuff that you can get now that just snaps on and off.
This set looks like about 20 minutes and we have a BTTF car.  It does the job and it comes off just as fast.  I hope someone brings a set to Chicago not installed.  It is kinda cool.
Not totally accurate but it does the job for something like an afterprom.
I never saw half this stuff before as a kit but it is not bad as I said.
 
And that is DR Frankeinstien to you.
 
See you in Chicago 2006
 
Ken
 





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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 23:27:42 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: HELP! - STUCK IN THE EXHAUST SYSTEM VALLEY OF HELL


You don't need to take the lambda sensor out to get the crossover out 
the way. Take the back box (muffler) off and this will give the cat enough romm to 
move the crossover/cat assembly out the way. The back box is quite easy 
- 3 13mm bolts on the right, two 17mm bolts on the back, and two 13mm 
bolts above teh lat, plus the clamp.

Martin


>The only thing I have accomplished is buying more
>tools, skinning my arms up, and securing my house from
> potential break-ins by the steady stream of
>profanities coming from underneath my car!!!! 





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 22:47:55 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Trans noise



Hey all I jsut got finished with the clutch install in my car and started it up and 
it is making this rubbing noise... was really loud for a minute then quited up 
some when i let the car run for a few minutes.. I dont have the bottom or side 
sheilds back on yet so they cant be rubbing.. maybe the starter shield?? or its 
it possible the cable was slightyl misadjusted when i loosed it and took it off?? 
also the clutdch still needs to be bled a little cause it is a little soft from putting 
a new slave cylinder on...It seems to go into gears fine though i didnt drive it 
just moved it in the driveway alittle.. reverse works fine... I really dont feel like 
pulling it out again... any help is appreciated.. Dave..vin 15275..








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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 22:52:28 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Door Opener Adapter


Roy - Without getting overly commercial, might I suggest that we have 
several excellent keyless entry systems with far greater capabilities 
and more existing expansion components and potential (for far less 
money).  Please visit our website and search for "Wings-A-Loft".  You 
will see a listing of all of that product line.  Just a thought! 

Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, lordshill_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Where were you able to purchase the Zilla product?  From what I  
understand noone has them right now as they are not being produced 
>  
> Roy  Vin# 0893









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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 23:45:52 -0000
From: "squall67584" <squall67584_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: What ever happened with the upgraded D from Houston?


I'm talking about the one that had the new interior design and the 
chrome wheels?  I tried looking for a previous post but I can't find 
anything pertaining to what I was loking for.  Mainly I was wondering 
what size wheels were on it and if the brakes were upgraded.








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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 00:48:46 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: What gas octain to use (Chuck)


Several possibilities spring to mind:
- Carbon buildup, as Joseph suggested
- Modified or replacement engine, as Warren suggested (Euro spec
Renault blocks were sold as replacements to the DeLo community in the
mid-late 1980's -- I had one)
- A vacuum leak (see the melted spark plug pic in #5939's photo album
to see what a cracked line to the HVAC switch did to me)
- Over advanced base ignition time

Pull all 6 spark plugs to see what's going on inside your engine. You
need to pull all 6 because a problem in just one cylinder could be
causing your predetonation (a loose fitting spark plug itself can be a
culprit). If they are melted, cylinder temps have risen
astronomically. If they are clean & white, cylinder temps are too
high. You want a tan or caramel color.

Don't assume just because the crank pully points at 13 degrees that
base ignition in fact is 13 degrees -- if the timing scale is off, all
your readings will be off. I ran into this on a car in Charlotte
recently, but off in the other direction (13 degree reading was
actually closer to TDC).

Is your engine hard to start? One of the symptoms of over advanced
base time is hard starting. Does your engine run too hot? Another
symptom of over advanced ignition is excessive combustion chamber temps.

There is a 100% accurate procedure to re-index a PRV timing scale
(short of the screwdriver in spark plug hole method, which I've never
mastered on any engine because of the angle):
- Rotate the engine manually to 20 degrees BTDC
- Remove the block plug closest to the front of the engine (under the
intake manifold)
- Insert a foot long 5/16" drill bit into the hole, letting it ride on
the #6 counterweight
- Continue to rotate the engine until the drill bit drops into a
pre-drilled hole in the counterweight
Cylinder #1 is now at TDC. Move the timing scale to reflect such, and
you're ready to set base ignition time.

Until then I'd recommend retarding base ignition time by ear
(clockwise). Isn't going to hurt anything, and may solve your problem
without removing the intake manifold and muffler (can't reach the
crankchaft nut with a stock muffler in place).

Some people subscribe to the theory that optimum ignition is at the
threshhold of predetonation. Your PO may have been one.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, beatlesra1_at_dml_a... wrote:
> 
> Unbelievable but true..My car will only run on 93 or 94- octane. If
I  put 91 
> in it's knocks like crazy. I've told this to a few of me fellow
Delorean  
> owners and they think I'm crazy!
>  
> Chuck Vin 6125
> DCO
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 20:14:41 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Door Opener Adapter

 
Toby to the rescue.  Toby.. I have purchased a Delorean from an  original 
owner, who took incredible care of it.  I'm driving it home from  Florida next 
month.  When discussing upgrades with him and Don of the  Delorean place in 
Calif, who knew of the total history of the car and has  serviced it from when it 
was purchased by the owner, two upgrades I knew I  wanted to do:  A remote 
lock and alarm for the doors and the Fanzilla,  which enables the various fans 
and units to come on in stages so there is no big  pull on the system.  I looked 
on your web site and am a little confused  regarding the lock system and I 
did not see anything like a fanzilla.   Help.
 
Roy


 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 01:00:22 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: What gas octain to use

The pinging most likely is being caused by a too rapid mechanical 
spark advance. I have found that the distributor advances the spark 
too fast at the midrange - on mine at least. It is not worth fixing 
in my opinion when higher octane will eliminate the pre-ignition (to 
calibrate the distributor it takes a distributor set-up machine 
which is scarcer than the DeLorean).

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_s...> 
wrote:
> 
> Mine does the same thing!  Never have figured out why....and still I have have pinging on low octane gas.





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 01:09:01 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Trans noise

Are you sure the starter gear disengaged?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey all I jsut got finished with the clutch install in my car and 
started it up and it is making this rubbing noise...





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 01:19:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: HELP! - STUCK IN THE EXHAUST SYSTEM VALLEY OF HELL

First, which stud did Midas break? If it's one of the manifold to head
studs, you really need to replace it. If it's one of the manifold to
crossover pipe studs, I'd recommend removing/snapping the other one.
There are 2 unused stud holes in the manifold that the crossover pipe
retainer should be rotatable 90 degrees to use. And even if that
doesn't work, the original holes are easily re-drilled off the car.

Second, I'd recommend leaving the head studs in place. They are very
small diameter, highly susceptible to breakage. Simply clean up the
threads with a 7mm die (turn it around backwards to get close to the
head). I used replacement stainless nuts (Fastenal sells 7mm) to
ensure easy future removal (clean up the exposed thread and spin them
off). Rob grady sells stainless 7mm studs themselves if you're brave
enough to try removing the factory ones.

The best way to reach the catalytic converter nuts is from the front
side of the crossmember. There's enough room for a 3/8" drive socket
with the O2 sensor in place. Reach it with a 12"-18" extension. Like
the manifold to crossover pipe studs, don't worry if they snap off.
The holes can be re-drilled easily once the converter is off the car
(because the muffler is stainless, it won't have any trouble coming
off that end. Guillotine clamp is probably toast however).

By all means, reassemble everything with an eye for future removal.
Items in the Valley of Death are *SO* much more accessible from under
the car, once the crossover pipe is out of the way. Imagine how nice
it will be to have stainless hardware you can simply spin off to
replace cap & rotor or plug wires (fuel air mixture unit will still
need to rise up an inch or two), the ported vacuum switch or vacuum
lines, THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER (that's actually the first thing you
see from underneath), tighten hose clamps on the back of the water
pump, etc.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike p <cambpd_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> Please, can anyone help with advice??!  I am trying to
> replace a _at_dml_#%_at_dml_%#$ exhaust gasket on the right side of
> our Delorean.  I have the nuts off on the manifold/
> exhaust connectors but of course I can't move the
> crossover exhaust pipe out far enough to slip the new
> gasket over the stud (oh yes, took it to Midas before
> and all they ended up doing was breaking off one of
> the connector studs).  





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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 20:34:46 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: What parts should I carry with me?

Joe and Group. I have a lot of the survival kit.
I also can add a thing or 2. See Below:
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Joseph Kuchan
Subject: RE: [DML] What parts should I carry with me?




Here's a few ideas:

The phone number of your local towing company.( Your own your own on this
one.)

The DeLorean parts cross reference.
( Sorry, I don't give out the cross reference, But I do give out my phone #
12/7 ,,972-564-9321.)

Phone numbers of the vendors and/or other owners you know who are
knowledgeable about the car. ( See above )

A small flashlight. Latex or nitrile gloves. A big sheet of
 plastic to lay on or to put on the passenger seat to carry a flat tire on.
( These you can pick up local but if you don't want to buy a box of 110,
then put it in the comment box on your next order and I will give you a
couple.)

One thing for sure: some copper washers for the fuel system! John Hervey has
a nice set. If you ever have to crack open the fuel system on the road you
risk dropping one of those suckers down into the valley of death. Then
you're stuck. Since they are copper you couldn't even retrieve them with a
magnet. ( I Keep in stock)

Another thing you want is a jumper for your rpm relay.
( I also give these away also and you can also use it on the otterstat to
force the fans to come on.)

A set of metric combination wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, etc.
( I have a set of 22 or 25 for $20.00 bucks, They are SAE and Metric. )

A DECENT jack that will actuall lift the car, not the toy that comes with it
and the very short handle that does not give you any leverage.
( Can't help you here.)

A cheapy volt/ohmmeter.( I have Digital for $9.95, everyone else is $20.00
up.)

A wiring diagram, and a diagram of the fuel system and other major systems.
(I have a laminated for $9.95)


Pictures you've taken of the car any time you've had it apart so that you
can see how it goes back together aagin.

Some cable ties. ( Have plenty of these for 0.02ea )

A tube of waterless hand cleaner and some shop towels.( you can do this )

There's probably a bunch of other stuff too, but there will be a lot of
people chiming in on this one I'm sure and you'll soon have a very complete
list.

All the above can be found on my web site generally under Accessories or
other places.

(I would also add a reducer for the water pump hoses. I have one that will
adapt
1 1/2" to 1 1/4. This is a life saver.)

John Hervey





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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 01:42:41 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: What gas octain to use (Improved Formulations)

It isn't just gasoline -- every fluid that goes into a car is
formulated much better now:
- Oil
- Antifreeze
- Hydraulic fluids
Filter media are also better. 

This a major reason vehicle lives (measured in miles, not years) have
been extended.

The ultimate benefit is running these highly refined fluids in older
vehicles engineered for lower quality products. For example, a
carburetor designed to withstand lead deposits will never clog from
unleaded gas, and a copper radiator will last forever with 
contemporary antifreeze.

Tire technology has improved too. In the bad old days, 80,000-100,000
mile tread life was unimaginable, and puncture flats were a common
occurrence.

The only consumables that haven't improved are batteries.

Bill Robertson
#5939



>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> 
> The Delorean will run just fine on regular-87 octane.





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 19:03:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: DMC Erik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The return of Gigawatt Fun reprisal to previous post.

Now you say pizza is on you....couldn't you have waited for the NEXT weekend when I'm actually there!?  Hopefully i'll get to see the end results of the BTTF car.
 
erik


kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:


You are correct the car is a black automatic but for the pictures and such it will do fine and all the stuff is just bolt on.

But technically it is wrong 
but they love it 

so anyone wanting to play around with one of the possible raffle cars I will be at the warehouse Friday night 

Pizza is on me.

Ken






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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 21:49:54 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: What parts should I carry with me?

Thanks for the DML conversation, I threw together a few things that I have
to use in a survival kit. If we need more I can add it also.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html






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