From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2594
Date: Friday, April 29, 2005 9:50 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: What gas octain to use (Improved Formulations)/batteries
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

2. Re: What gas octain to use (Improved Formulations)
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>

3. Re: Idle problem
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

4. Re: Frustrated beyond belief? GUESS YOU PASSED INITIATION
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

5. Re: Engine Options
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

6. Re: Idle problem
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

7. Re: Trans noise
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. RE: Frustrated beyond belief
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. RE: What parts should I carry with me?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. RE: Re: What parts should I carry with me?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Re: Car Batteries
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: Stainless Studs In Aluminum Engine
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. Re: Fan Module Alternative (was Re: Door Opener Adapter)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. Re: Re: Fuel Pump Noise (Moving the Pump)
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

15. Re: Idle problem
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

16. Re: Frustrated beyond belief
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>

17. Re: What springs and shocks should I use?
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

18. RE: What parts should I carry with me? Delorean Owner's Directory Stories
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: What parts should I carry with me?
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Frustrated beyond belief
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

21. Re: What parts should I carry with me? (3 steps to being FULLY prepared)
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

22. Re: Frustrated beyond belief
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

23. DeLorean to the Rescue! (was :What parts should I carry?)
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

24. Re: Frustrated beyond belief
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

25. Re: Trans noise
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 01:41:13 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Re: What gas octain to use (Improved Formulations)/batteries

You don't consider the Optima (and now Exide's sealed Orbital 
batteries)as improved? Sealed, spiral wound, shock/vibration 
resistant, maintenance free. I think they even have some that fit 
Lincoln's :)
Stephen
Vin 3601
> 
> The only consumables that haven't improved are batteries.
> 









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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 04:23:05 -0000
From: "John Poland" <jpoland13_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: What gas octain to use (Improved Formulations)

I don't know if this has been mentioned yet, But if you look in the 
owners manual it calls for 91 octane fuel, or 87 if using the R+M/2 
method.  The US uses the R+M/2 method , so the required fuel for the 
car is 87 octane.
John
5935









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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 04:27:19 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Idle problem

Mine does it too, I think it is normal. -----Dani B. #5003



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Hi,
> I just want to check if there's anyone out there who has encountered
this and knows how to fix it.
> 
> When I crank my car, the engine goes up to 2500 - 3000 revs for 15
seconds and then settles at 800 revs and runs fine. It does this every time I start it and it makes no difference if the engine is cold or hot.
> 
> Anders #10238








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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 21:49:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Frustrated beyond belief? GUESS YOU PASSED INITIATION

Phil,

Welcome to the world of Delorean (no pun intended).  It will get better
but maybe not for a while.

Warren probably has better advice, but I'll give it a try.  Backfires,
raw fuel, heads were removed, etc. ---- my first thought is the timing
chains were not set right when the heads were replaced or the car is
timed wrong.  A couple of years ago, I made the mistake of not noticing
the two marks on the flywheel pulley and ended up starting the engine
for a few seconds.  Next time I tried to start it, I got so much fuel
into the exhaust I blew the muffler in two pieces and had a ringing in
my ears for days.  My point:  be sure you get the right mark when
setting the timing.

I still suspect the chain may be off a knotch on one or both pulleys.

My second guess would be a sticking plunger in the fuel distributor. 
You did not mention replacing this unit.  Also, a binding in the air
metering unit may be the culprit.

There are several other potential problems:

-Mixture too rich (did you check the system with a dwell meter set at
the right scale?),

-Poor fuel flow to the injectors,

-Ignition problem (coil, contacts, pickup coil, moisture in
distributor, timing),

-bad fuel distributor, and

-bad warm-up regulator.


My best investment in diagnosing fuel problems has been the fuel
pressure gage (from J.C. Whitney for under $100) and the manual "Bosch
Fuel Injection & Engine Management" (by Charles Probst, Robert Bentley
Publishers, 800-423-4595, www.rb.com).  I leave the gauge on my car at
all times and have found it invaluable for diagnosing the problems that
are bound to occur, particularly after not investing in relays, fuel
components, or driving the car for a long period of time.  With this
gage and the book you will know if the fuel pump pressure is correct,
the warm-up reg. is working correctly, etc.  Like someone said
recently, if the ignition is firing right and the fuel pressures are
right, the engine should run reasonably well.(somewhat oversimplified,
of course).

After all I just mentioned, my newest D is still running sluggish, but
I also haven't done the step-by-step diagonstics.

I keep coming back to timing.  Distributor timing or timing chain
position.

Woody


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 05:26:27 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Options

Woody - I haven't tried any transplants into a DeLorean yet, but I 
have one of these engines in a kit car project of mine.  I have the 
1963 Oldsmobile variant which has 6 head bolts per cylinder.  The 
Buick version has 5, and the Pontiac version, 4.  This engine family 
was sold to British Leyland years ago, and is now the Rover 3.5L V-
8.  You are right in that this is a great little motor.  I don't 
know if it's really all that small compared to a small-block Chevy, 
but it is light!  I have one mated to a VW transaxle in a Sterling 
GT kit.  It would probably be better for somebody to use the Rover 
version for the DeLorean, as parts for the American versions are a 
bit tough to come by.  I suspect that somebody would have done the 
Rover conversion by now(?)in a DeLorean.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> One of my favorite engines is the very small 215 c.i Olds/Buick V-8
> that was installed in 61-63 Cutlass and the Buick equivalent.  
Standard hp was 185 and there was also a turbo (?) option at about 
212 hp.  
> Has anyone tried a fit with of one of these in a D?









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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 05:33:12 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Idle problem

Normality in a DeLorean ... what a concept!  Winged1 starts up and 
idles at about 1000 rpm with some very minor hunting for about 10~15 
seconds when cold, and then settles at 750 rpm.  When warm, she 
starts and idles at 750 rpm steadily.  3000 rpm on a stone-cold 
motor doesn't sound all that good to me.  It takes a bit for the oil 
to get to the top end, so that first burst of rpm might be with the 
journals a little starved for oil.  I would think that there is an 
issue with the cold start system that should be resolved.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Mine does it too, I think it is normal. -----Dani B. #5003
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> > When I crank my car, the engine goes up to 2500 - 3000 revs for 
15 seconds and then settles at 800 revs and runs fine. It does this 
every time I start it and it makes no difference if the engine is 
cold or hot.









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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 05:42:35 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Trans noise

Only one way the flywheel can bolt on -- the holes are not equally spaced.

When you say you "turned the flywheel", do you mean you rotated the
crankshaft with it still attached? If so, you are going to hear all
kinds of noises as the pistons and valves move, as air is compressed
and exhausted, and as bearings and chains turn. Just the engine doing
its internal combustion thing.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> > 
> Hey Warren and others I took the trans back out this evening.. only
took a half 
> hour this time... I turned the flywheel and it made a rubbing noise
for a few 
> turns and then stopped.. whats up with that?? im gonna take it back off 
> tomorrow and see what the hell is going on.. is it on wrong?? i
marked it when 
> I took it off and put it back on the same way so I dont know..
Thanks for 
> help..Dave...vin..15275
> 









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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 00:51:00 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Frustrated beyond belief

Phil, Does it have enough power to pull it's self or does it die when you
let out on the clutch or go into drive.Sounds like ignition timing.
John Hervey




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Phil Priestley
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2005 4:27 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Frustrated beyond belief



Been trying to get this #$*%_at_dml_! car drivable for  months now. If it's
not been one thing it's been another.  Had the heads fixed after
coolant had eaten through them. It ran well afterwards but had an
engine miss.





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 00:59:55 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: What parts should I carry with me?

OK, I can get an inexpensive set for that, I also added the alternator /
water pump belt, because if the alternator belt goes then so does the water
pump.
We must make it a survival kit, not a complete tool kit or the price will
get to high.
What else can we do.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/accessories.html

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of DMCVIN6683
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2005 10:25 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] What parts should I carry with me?


Your missing screwdrivers.

Mark V









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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 01:01:47 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: What parts should I carry with me?

ok, I can add this also, but where is the price cap going to be.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Travis Graham
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2005 10:22 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: What parts should I carry with me?


I haven't seen anyone mention this in the thread so far, but I always
carry a long 1/4" ID hose with me, which serves as a great bleeder hose





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 06:23:29 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Car Batteries

In the bad old days a battery could last 10 or more years. Going dead
just one time wouldn't kill it forever. Contemporary "sealed"
batteries aren't air tight -- that's the reason for those pads and
creams you're supposed to put on the terminals -- they just don't
allow you to replace the lost water.

Ask anyone who remembers and they will confirm that landfill
regulations have lowered battery quality. Good for the environment,
but harder on the end user.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> You don't consider the Optima (and now Exide's sealed Orbital 
> batteries)as improved? Sealed, spiral wound, shock/vibration 
> resistant, maintenance free. I think they even have some that fit 
> Lincoln's :)
> Stephen
> Vin 3601
> > 
> > The only consumables that haven't improved are batteries.
> >








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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 06:03:15 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless Studs In Aluminum Engine

Doesn't matter if electrolysis welds the studs to the heads -- the
idea is never to remove them (just the nuts).

That's why I mounted my water pump with stainless studs & nuts. Don't
care what happens to the studs -- I intend to turn the nuts only (will
actually be advantageous if the studs remain stationary). Water pump
and thermostat hardware is notorious for electrolysis because of the
moisture. One of these days I'm finally going to get around to
converting my internal water pipe and thermostat housing bolts to
carbon studs (unless someone manages to find those elusive 7mm
stainless ones) with stainless nuts, as my exhaust manifolds are.
Don't care about bolts that hold the water pump back because the pump
itself will be thrown away.

Stainless hardware is slightly softer than Gade 5 or 8.8, but we're
not talking about high load items here (exhaust manifolds just need to
be held still against the heads). Speaking of which: my theory of why
exhaust leaks are endemic to PRV's is the rediculously flimsy carbon
washers they were mounted with. Quickly rust and disintegrate,
allowing the manifolds to move slightly away from the heads. I
replaced mine with 1/8" thick washers -- stainless of course.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> As almost all the M7 stuff is on the engine, which is ally, the jury is 
> still out on whether it's a good idea or not to mix them. I'm still on 
> the "not" side of the fence personally.
> 
> Martin
> 









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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 09:20:55 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Fan Module Alternative (was Re: Door Opener Adapter)

Greg,

what is a voltage leak and what has the door lock module 
to do with the fans ? Sounds weird to me.
Or was it a short circuit somewhere that was solved by
pulling on some wires ?


Elvis


> I don't think DPNW has such an item (yet).  SpecialTAuto does,
> however.  Theirs is called the "Fan Fix Dual 2x2" and operates a bit
> differently from the Fanzilla, but it gets the job done:
> http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/modifications.html
> 
> I purchased this unit about a year ago.  The only problem I had with
> it was the fans staying on after turning off the car sometimes; this
> was traced to a voltage leak in my car, and it's been mostly cured
> since I updated my door lock module with sealed relays from DPNW.
> 
> It's wired somewhat differently and sequences differently from
> Fanzilla, as described on their respective websites.  The main
> difference it makes to the driver is the use of the "Cooling Fan Fail"
> light in the center console: it activates to show you when the fans
> are running with the Dual Fan Fix 2x2.
> 
> --Greg
> #2894

-- 
+++ Sparen beginnt mit GMX DSL: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/dsl





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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 10:03:19 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuel Pump Noise (Moving the Pump)

That's right, Volvo did that. One was a low pressure-high volume pump 
mounted inside the tank and the other was a regular pump, just like DeLorean 
pump. The thing is that the Mitsu I was talking about did NOT have a second 
pump in the tank. There was only one, identical to the one used on the D and 
it was mounted horizontally on top of the fuel tank with the tank being 
deeper that on a D. Since the pump lasted for so long in this configuration 
and it was perfectly quiet I will move my pump outside the tank and I will 
redesign the pickup and return hoses. I don't want any rubber pieces inside 
the tank. I want rigid metal lines with the pump on top just like Mitsu did.

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
>
> Tom, Volvo mounted the pump away from the tank on a plate against the 
> frame
> and had a primer pump in the tank. Now you got 2 problems instead of one.
> John Hervey
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I'm not sure if I can agree completely with this. I mean, if you mount the
> pump 'just anywhere' it might take a long time for it to prime if it 
> starts
> dry. Long enough to ruin the pump. So, I would keep it close to the tank.
> One thing is for sure - the pump DOES NOT need to be mounted inside the
> tank. I have seen identical pumps mounted on top of the fuel tank that
> lasted for many many miles (on different cars) without any pump inside the
> tank.






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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 09:16:33 +0200 (MEST)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: Re: Idle problem

Anders,
Speed and time are both too high. Do you have a possibility to swap
your idle ECU to test it ?
Could also be the idle motor that sticks open for a few seconds before
it starts moving (friction ?)maybe it can help if you lube it with 
some drops of oil into the bearing (on top of it there's a screw...).

If it is the ECU (test it by swapping) then let me know, I may be 
able to readjust it.

Elvis & 6548


> Hi,
> I just want to check if there's anyone out there who has encountered this
> and knows how 
> to fix it.
> 
> When I crank my car, the engine goes up to 2500 - 3000 revs for 15 seconds
> and then 





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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 06:08:53 -0400
From: "Mark" <mark_at_dml_meninblack.ca>
Subject: Re: Frustrated beyond belief

Hi Phil,

I don't know specifically about the DeLorean, but I had exactly this problem
on my Pontiac Grand Prix.   It turned out to be a combination of a plugged
catalytic converter and o2 sensor.

Drove like a dream afterward.

Good luck.

Mark.
www.meninblack.ca

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Phil Priestley" <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2005 6:26 PM
Subject: [DML] Frustrated beyond belief


>
> Been trying to get this #$*%_at_dml_! car drivable for  months now. If it's
> not been one thing it's been another.  Had the heads fixed after
> coolant had eaten through them. It ran well afterwards but had an
> engine miss.
>





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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 11:45:03 -0000
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: What springs and shocks should I use?

Dave,

Thanks for the tips about my vibration.  I will check the tire 
pressures and the front end components.  You may be right about the 
lowering.  New England roads are not the flattest, especially wit 
frost heaves and construction work that seems to always be under way 
on at least road I need to travel in any given day!  However, it 
seems that the lowering does improve the right, based on posts here.

Paul


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> If you have vibration it has nothing to do with alignment. You 
either
> have a a bad tire or it is out-of-balance or a bent rim. You could
> also have things loose in the front suspension. I would also check 
the
> tire pressures. Too much air in the rear tires would give you a 
hard
> ride and a low pressure in the front can cause vibration. I would 
fix
> the vibration problem before installing the lowering kit, or 
shocks.
> If you do lower the car you should get the car realigned 
afterwards.
> If the roads in your area are anything like the the roads in the 
New
> York-New Jersey area you may want to think twice about lowering 
the car.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> 
wrote:
> > 
> > My next thing I'd like to do it update the springs and shocks on 
my 
> > car.  What equipment did you use?  Right now, at highway speeds, 
I 
> > feel a little vibration in the steering wheel, even though the 
> > previous owner said he got an alignment for the car.  The rear 





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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 04:42:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: What parts should I carry with me? Delorean Owner's Directory Stories

Dick reminded me of something I've been meaning to
ask:  Who has actually taken advantage of the Delorean
Owner's Directory?  When I first became an owner and
joined this group, I signed up on the Directory, and
found it to be one of the coolest things.  The idea
that people can make themselves available for
tools/shelter/etc. really stuck me as differentiator
of the Delorean group from others.  I've never needed
assistance yet, nor have I ever been called on for
anything, but I was wondering if anyone out there has
any Owner's Directory stories to share?

Steve


--- Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> I do always carry the DeLorean Owners Directory, the
> Workshop Manual and the Parts Manual.  In those I
> have
> recorded the numbers of all of the major DeLorean
> Vendors.
> 
> Guys, I think many of you worry way to much.
> 
> It isn't a dream if you are afraid to drive it.
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867  
> 
>





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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 06:54:34 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: What parts should I carry with me?

Geez Dave! You know what will happen to you the next time you trake your car 
out now, don't you!?!  ;)

You're not supposed to say stuff like that out loud. (Or send it in a 
posting to a newsgroup.)

-Joe

>From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] What parts should I carry with me?
>Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2005 15:29:44 -0000
>
>Where do you put the people ;-) ? All this weight is probably not
>doing your handling and gas mileage any good either.
>
>I generally carry a cellphone and a credit card. And maybe a few
>extra fuses. On longer trips I'll bring some basic tools and maybe
>some relays and jumpers, but in all the time I've had the car, I've
>only used anything I was carrying to fix **someone else's** car.





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 07:31:15 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Frustrated beyond belief

Phil,

Did you replace your ignition coil. ??  It is a weak link and is a know 
failure rate.

BOB






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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 12:41:19 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: What parts should I carry with me? (3 steps to being FULLY prepared)

How can I get a copy of the owners directory? I've signed up for it 
twice, but never heard back. Thanks

John
vin# 7009

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Project DeLorean Steve is on the right track.
> 
> > 
> I do always carry the DeLorean Owners Directory, the
> Workshop Manual and the Parts Manual.  In those I have
> recorded the numbers of all of the major DeLorean
> Vendors.
> 
> Guys, I think many





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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 08:11:46 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Frustrated beyond belief

I would want to know the fuel pressures.  If it's running rich, then low 
main pressure or a bad fuel distributor, (or both), are possibilities. 
What a mess.  Call for counseling. 800 872 3621.
Warren at DMC


Phil Priestley wrote:
> Been trying to get this #$*%_at_dml_! car drivable for  months now. If it's 
> not been one thing it's been another.  Had the heads fixed after 
> coolant had eaten through them. It ran well afterwards but had an 
> engine miss.
> 





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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 09:18:14 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: DeLorean to the Rescue! (was :What parts should I carry?)

I always carry jumper cables in my DeLorean.  At least once a year I rescue a non-DeLorean with a dead battery.  Perhaps it's a bit risky of my own electrical system, but I don't mind.  Thanks to John Hervey's REALLY BIG alternator I feel I have amps to spare.

On a bicycle ride last summer I came across a beat-up old Impala stranded in the middle of an upscale neighborhood.  The unlucky guy had a broken alternator belt and his battery was dead.  It was daytime and he was just two miles from home, all he needed was a jump start.  No one in the neighborhood would help him.  I promised to dash home and get a car to boost his battery. 

When I returned a policeman was giving the guy a hard time, telling him he needed to move along or the city would impound his car.  I pulled my DeLorean in front of the stranded car and in less than a minute had the jumper cables in place.  I kept the cables on for at least ten minutes, long enough to give him a decent charge, then he started the Impala and went home.

Here's the twist:

Afterwards the policeman was very grateful to me.  He had felt terrible giving the guy a hard time, but it was all he could do.  Someone had called the police, demanding that something be done about the dead Impala.  The Officer wished he could give the guy a jump start from his police cruiser, but the Department doesn't allow that.  He was embarrassed that no one living on the street would help.  If I hadn't come along the situation would have become a real headache for him.

I always drive safely, courteously, and legally.  Nevertheless, it's nice to know there's a policeman in my neighborhood who thinks "that guy with the DeLorean is a hero."

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, eleven years (!)

      PS: Thank you John Hervey for giving my car
          powers and abilities far beyond those
          of ordinary DeLoreans.







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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 13:04:25 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Frustrated beyond belief

Hello.

Did you accidentally swap two spark plug wires?
Is the timing wrong?

Either of those two things would cause your trouble.  I've made both 
these mistakes at one point or another.

Rick.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> Been trying to get this #$*%_at_dml_! car drivable for  months now. If 
it's 
> not been one thing it's been another.  Had the heads fixed after 
> coolant had eaten through them. It ran well afterwards but had an 
> engine miss.
> 





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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 08:25:19 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Trans noise

The flywheel won't be out of balance-the 'clock' position doesn't 
matter. If it did, there wouldn't be but one way to put it on. The rear 
main seal and/or carrier may not be installed correctly.  Also, you have 
discovered one of the secrets of the professional mechanic: Repetition 
teaches speed.  Do a job two or three times and it gets easier and faster.
Warren at DMC

painterdave72 wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> 
> Hey Warren and others I took the trans back out this evening.. only took a half 
> hour this time... I turned the flywheel and it made a rubbing noise for a few 
> turns and then stopped.. whats up with that?? im gonna take it back off 
> tomorrow and see what the hell is going on.. is it on wrong?? i marked it when 
> I took it off and put it back on the same way so I dont know.. Thanks for 
> help..Dave...vin..15275





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