From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2597
Date: Saturday, April 30, 2005 3:34 PM

There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Leaking Antifreeze
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: New binnacles
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Leaking Antifreeze
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: What springs and shocks should I use?
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. Re: Idle problem
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

6. Re: Idle problem
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

7. Re: Frustrated beyond belief
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 21:56:53 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Leaking Antifreeze

Chuck, I have a car in the shop that the gasket on the back of the water
pump was seeping and it filled up the valley. You might have to pull the
intake manifold and look there.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of beatlesra1
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 11:55 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Leaking Antifreeze


I need some help..I'm finding a small amount of antifreeze on my garage
floor. Looking closer the coolant is on the oil pan mainly clinging on
the bolts holding the pan on. I don't see or feel anything coming out
of the coolant pump or from any of the hoses that I can see. 





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2005 23:37:00 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: New binnacles

I'm glad that you were able to reproduce these parts. The new interior parts 
look wonderful. Are they made of better materials than the OEM stuff?

Will they have the same texture and finish as the OEM?

I will buy one of each new part in both colors.

Sincerely,
Mike Pack


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 03:47:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Antifreeze

The easiest way to find coolant leaks is to pressurize the cooling
system with a cooling system pressure tester. Leaks will then be
obvious. My guess is the water pump. It is coming out below the shaft
because the seal is shot. Other possabilities are hoses, the bleeder
screw, bad hose clamps, etc. If the car has not had the "Master Water
Pump Kit" it is now time to just do the whole cooling system. If you
have to replace the water pump you may as well go all the way. You
should also consider the metal header bottle and the brass radiator.
Of course all the hoses, seals, belts, idler pulley bearings, clamps,
gaskets, thermostat, and "O" rings. Call your favorite vender and they
will give you the good news about the pricing. This job ain't cheap
especially if you cannot do the work yourself. Very soon the seal will
fail completely and there will be a flood of coolant coming out.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "beatlesra1" <beatlesra1_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I need some help..I'm finding a small amount of antifreeze on my garage 
> floor. Looking closer the coolant is on the oil pan mainly clinging on 
> the bolts holding the pan on. I don't see or feel anything coming out 
> of the coolant pump or from any of the hoses that I can see. I changed 
> the coolant bottle cap about a month ago and didn't see anything so i 
> thought that fixed it, apparently it didn't. Also the bottle isn't 
> leaking. It appears to be coming from just above the oil pan or in that 
> area since on the car that's the only place I can see the coolant.
> 
> I had the coolant bottle half filled and it has gone down maybe a 1/4 
> inch..Any suggestions on where to start looking?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Chuck Darling
> Vin 6125








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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 12:27:36 -0000
From: "sandorp1" <piszar_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: What springs and shocks should I use?

I can attest to the fact that the ride and handling of Shannon's car 
is excellent, although I did not experience it at 120.  

I have the DMCH suspension on mine and I love it.  The look of course 
is great, but the ride and an handling are awesome (tested up to 110 
mph so far!).  You would not be disappointed.


Sandor
# 3002

 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Paul,
> When making your compairison you forgot DMCH's Shocks. You need to 
add another
> $329 to the $399 (or buy all for $699).  
> 
> Grady's setup is adjustable with nitrogen. 
> DMCH's setup has adjustable collars (someone correct me if I'm 
wrong)
> 
> Grady's setup uses the stock rear springs.
> DMCH's setup uses brand new springs.
> 
> Both were specifically enginered for the DeLorean. 
>





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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 09:42:48 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Idle problem

Dani,
I just got another members idle motor running again that had been stuck. The
PO adjusted the idle using the microswitch screw. The trick here is to
remove the motor from the car. Turn it upside down and liberally spray WD40
inside the valve. Let it soak a little then using two jumper wires, one
hooked to the battery post in the engine compartment and one hooked to a
ground on the engine, alternate touching the two outside terminals on the
motor. This makes the motor open and close and works the WD40 into the
motor. Continue opening and closing the valve until it operates smoothly.
For a really stuck motor I've also removed the hex set screw on top and
flooded that with WD40 to loosen it. This is a last resort because the
setscrew positions the valve in the motor and then you have to reset the
screw after you get the motor working again.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Idle problem


> Okay, it seems my idle motor is not closing all the way and oil didn't
> help-anyone have a good used one they don't want? I'm real glad that
> this issue has been brought up! -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 09:42:48 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Idle problem

Dani,
I just got another members idle motor running again that had been stuck. The
PO adjusted the idle using the microswitch screw. The trick here is to
remove the motor from the car. Turn it upside down and liberally spray WD40
inside the valve. Let it soak a little then using two jumper wires, one
hooked to the battery post in the engine compartment and one hooked to a
ground on the engine, alternate touching the two outside terminals on the
motor. This makes the motor open and close and works the WD40 into the
motor. Continue opening and closing the valve until it operates smoothly.
For a really stuck motor I've also removed the hex set screw on top and
flooded that with WD40 to loosen it. This is a last resort because the
setscrew positions the valve in the motor and then you have to reset the
screw after you get the motor working again.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Idle problem


> Okay, it seems my idle motor is not closing all the way and oil didn't
> help-anyone have a good used one they don't want? I'm real glad that
> this issue has been brought up! -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 10:33:20 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Frustrated beyond belief

 
Does this statement make any sense?

I can  lean the mixture out to the point that the engine 
starts to die and it's  still running rich.
 
Something is wrong with your rich  / lean assessment.
 
Can you explain what you mean?


Dē & 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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