From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2599
Date: Monday, May 02, 2005 6:58 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: "How-to" when removing/installing front fascia?
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

2. dmc parts database
From: Mike Green <mikedx_at_dml_gmail.com>

3. Re: Frustrated beyond belief (Lean Mixture / Rich Metering)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: PRV6 performance problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Leaking Antifreeze:CAUTION
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: What parts should I carry with me?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

7. Re: Mystery capacitor in engine bay
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Workshop Manual vs. Service Bulletin - R12 Anomaly
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

9. Hoses
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

10. Re: door roof seal question
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

11. Convex mirrors - update - long
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

12. RE: PRV6 performance problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. AC question
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

14. Re: Idle problem
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

15. Afghans
From: "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. starter question
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>

17. DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

18. Who has the best door struts?
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

19. Re: What parts should I carry with me?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

21. Frame off assembly
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

22. Re: starter question
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

23. Re: starter question
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

24. RE: DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Re: Idle problem
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 11:49:08 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: "How-to" when removing/installing front fascia?

In the last issue of DeLorean Car Show Magazine we went through the process  
of removing the fascias.
 
We have plenty of magazines 
 
Ken
 
DeLorean Car Show Inc.
DeLorean Car Show Magazine
deloreancarshow.com
 
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 16:50:56 +0100
From: Mike Green <mikedx_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: dmc parts database

I've just downloaded the 4 disks from the website (disk1 - disk4.zip),
and tried installing the file on a windows xp machine and each time
install shield causes a massive crash.

has anybody got a non-spanned set that they could send out to me or
advise of a fix?

Best regards

Mike
-- 
------------------------------------
Mike Green
Software architect
DOC 427
MSN: mikeyturbouk_at_dml_hotmail.com





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 16:00:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Frustrated beyond belief (Lean Mixture / Rich Metering)

I think as he starts the work he will discover (or the mechanic
actually doing the work) that is is a little of all of the above. All
of these little problems are cumulative, ie, they add up, not cancel
each other out. On most Deloreans they still have origional seals
under the intake manifold so that is probably the #1 source of many of
the problems. In going in there all of the other things will get taken
care of "along the way".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Welcome to the wonderful world of vacuum leaks.





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 16:02:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: PRV6 performance problem

Make sure your Frequency valve is buzzing. It is on the front right
valve cover. You should be able to hear it when the motor is running.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean6584"
<carburateur100gaz_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> i just noticed how the performance is bad in my delorean when the 
> engine is hot, because when cold it accelerate perfectly (atleast for a 
> 136hp engine) but when it warms up (about 2-3mins on the road) it 
> suddenly becomes lazy as hell, hardly accelerate ...anyone already had 
> this problem?








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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 16:12:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Antifreeze:CAUTION

You are completely correct in saying the cooling system is NOT to be
overpressurized above 15 psi. To find leaks I usually pressurize in
steps. First I take it up to around 5 psi and look around. If it is
shooting out now from somewhere you don't need 15 psi to find it! I
let it sit for a couple of minutes and if things look good and then go
up to around 10 psi. Look around again and if you think it is OK, NOW
I go to 15 psi. This is done WITHOUT RUNNING THE MOTOR!!!! If you run
the motor the pressure will climb due to the heating and expansion of
the coolant. It is VERY EASY  to overpressurize the motor this way.
The radiator cap should also be tested to verify it will release
before going above 15 psi. You will probably blow the end tanks off
the radiator before you damage the motor but who wants to find out?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> To Dave T's suggestions for pressurizing the cooling system to find the
> 








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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 11:15:50 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What parts should I carry with me?

It is recommended replace all coolant hoses every 4 years, thats why.

Quote directly of www.gates.com website "To be safe, Gates recommends 
changing coolant hoses if they are four years old, or older, especially 
the upper radiator and heater hoses."

See for yourself..... 
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1024&location_id=541
http://tinyurl.com/dc37d
Near the bottom of the page.

Mark V


On Apr 30, 2005, at 11:54 AM, John Hervey wrote:

> No it was 5 years old. Don't know why it blew, it just did.
> John





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 16:17:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Mystery capacitor in engine bay

The capacitors were added to reduce electrical noise in the system for
the radio. There were several added around the car. I am not sure of
all of them but one was added by the throttle switch and another by
the ignition coil. If your radio is working without snaps, crackles,
or whine then you are OK. The plug on the firewall with the 2 wires,
red and black is for the back-up lights on the manual. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> On my car there is a 1uF capacitor on the firewall that is not 
> connected to anything..... Any ideas on what this capacitor is for, 





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 16:28:13 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Workshop Manual vs. Service Bulletin - R12 Anomaly

Section N:07:01 states the total charge for the a/c system is 2.5 lbs.
Service bulletin # ST-29-11/81 states "The freon charge has changed
to 2.2 lbs. from the previous 2.75 lbs. The new specification was 
introduced with V.I.N. 4080."
Which is the correct origional charge 2.5 or 2.75?
Is the new spec for ALL cars or only after vin 4080?
Thanks,
Stephen
Vin 3601








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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 18:01:04 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Hoses

Sounds like Gates is trying to sell hoses. 4 years is overkill. 20 is 
too long. 

Dave S

========
It is recommended replace all coolant hoses every 4 years, thats why.

Quote directly of www.gates.com website "To be safe, Gates recommends 
changing coolant hoses if they are four years old, or older, especially 
the upper radiator and heater hoses."

See for yourself..... 
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1024&location_id=541
http://tinyurl.com/dc37d
Near the bottom of the page.

Mark V


On Apr 30, 2005, at 11:54 AM, John Hervey wrote:

> No it was 5 years old. Don't know why it blew, it just did.
> John









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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 20:32:49 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: door roof seal question

Toby - Dave S. answered your question very well, and I don't have 
anything to add.  The reason for the post is to introduce myself, and 
let you know that there is another Toby on the DML.  I always sign off 
with my last name, so that shouldn't be a source of confusion.  This 
list does feature multiple "Dave's", "Greg's", and "John's", so we try 
to do our best to keep it all straight.  Are you new to the DeLorean 
community, or have you been lurking for a while?  If you are new ... 
Welcome!

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delowalk" <delowalk_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> Quick question.  I recently replaced the door roof seals on my car 
> very carefully ......  So why do we have them?
> 
> thanks,
> Toby








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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 23:53:19 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Convex mirrors - update - long

Hello all

Tom here with an update about the production of the mirrors.
Almost all those interested want the extended convex option with heating 
pads. Actually I only had one person ask about flat mirror on the drivers 
side (like they do it in the US). At this point I can let you know that I 
will start the production very soon - it's a holiday week here in Poland 
now, but next week seems very possible. The mirrors should be ready to ship 
within two to three weeks from now.
At the same time I would like to answer some questions that I got through 
private email so others can get a better idea.
There is not enough interest for now to negotiate a better price. So we'll 
go with $100 US for the extended convex (set of two). Heating pads are an 
option and can be added for $10 (for a set). I will not make any other 
mirrors as there is no interest at all. The extended convex is the best 
option in my opinion anyway.
The heating pads attach to the back of the mirror and should be connected to 
switched 12V. There is a plug provided in the door that should be connected 
to the rest of the circuit. I will make sure as soon as I can reconnect the 
battery to my car (I took the engine apart :) ) The heating pads are VERY 
useful not only in cold climates. When connected to power they get hot very 
quickly and not only keep ice off the mirrors, they also keep them dry all 
the time - fog or rain! In my opinion this is a must have option from Alaska 
down to Florida - I remember those evenings when I used to live in FL when I 
couldn't keep the water from condensing on my mirrors.... I thought "what I 
would give for the heaters". For that price... I'm getting a set for my D.
The shipping should be about $5 to $10 registered mail - 6 day delivery to 
the US. I'll have an exact quote soon.
Soon I will upload some pictures to the photos section of the DML so you can 
see the difference between regular and new mirrors.
Installation: I highly recommend removing the old glass before installing 
the new one. I had one person ask me about my opinion on gluing new mirrors 
on top of the old ones. I do not recommend this. There is enough mass as it 
is now. If you add another layer of glass you might have a problem of 
vibration and the mirrors might tend to drop down after a while of driving. 
Removal of the old glass is easy.... you can do it two ways, either one is 
very simple. I will include instructions with every set.
Payment can be done in two ways - Paypal or Western Union transfer to me. I 
prefer Western Union transfer.
As I will get closer to actually placing the order I will let everyone 
interested know via private email. That way if someone does not get an email 
from me it will mean I never got their order in.
I will let everyone know thought the DML when the order is placed and when 
you should expect an email from me.
I will also post here when I upload some pictures to for everyone to see.
This will be all for now.
Thank you for your interest in the extended convex mirrors.

If anyone else is interested and did NOT email me yet, please let me know 
before I place an order. After that we will have to wait to get enough 
orders placed to have another batch produced.


Take care all,
Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...






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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 17:37:14 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: PRV6 performance problem

Could be fuel pressure from the CPR or timing.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com  delorean6584
Subject: [DML] PRV6 performance problem

i just noticed how the performance is bad in my delorean when the
engine is hot, because when cold it accelerate perfectly





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 00:55:36 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: AC question

I was looking through the old posts to see if this came up but I
couldn't find anything. I charged and finally have my AC back up and
running again but when I turn on the system- I get this annoying
wooshing sound that fades finally when I turn the AC off. Sounds like
is coming from the evaporator/receiver-drier area. System doesn't seem
to be leaking and has good pressure,it also puts out nice cold
air-everything is running as it should. But what is this sound and how
do I rid it... Any thoughts? Dani B. #5003








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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 01:00:18 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Idle problem

Now I am running on manual idle, once the engine turns over it reves
to about 1400RMPS now, not as high as before. What should I look at
next? -----Dani B. #5003








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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 01:20:54 -0000
From: "llynn019" <llynn019_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Afghans

I just wanted to thank all of you who purchased a Delorean Afghan from 
me over the past few months.  I have only two afghans left currently at 
auction on ebay, and thanks to you, my parents' estate is almost 
settled and I can focus on finding a new owner for their Delorean.  
Again and again D owners and enthusiasts have been a huge support and 
the greatest people I have met. 

Thanks again,

Lorraine 
#1141 (for sale)








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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 21:20:50 -0400
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>
Subject: starter question

My starter solenoid is shot, and the car naturally doesn't crank at all.  If I were to push it out of its parking space and role it down the hill am I likely able to get it going so I can drive it to the shop to change the starter on a lift?  I have been able to "pop start it" before when the starter still worked but the battery was just too low, and I couldn't get jumper cables, but never without a starter at all.  I have about a 40 ft hill that could probably have me going about 25 mph if I just let it role to the bottom, but I am not sure that it works like this.  If I try to "pop start" it with a completely nonfunctioning starter, am I likely to get it started?
Thanks
Joe P.
VIN17167 6808 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 21:46:02 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay


Hello Gentleman,

There is a DVD for sale on Ebay, here are the details:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=60881&item=6392269295&r
d=1

Has anyone seen this video and would you recommend it?

Thank You,
Michael


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 23:16:10 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Who has the best door struts?

This will be my third replacement set in five years. The first replacements were from DMCH but they cracked my mounts because they were a bit too long. After it was repaired (and well reinforced) I purchased a new after-market set on ebay of unknown origin (no markings). They worked O.K. for a season but now they are getting pretty weak. Now the question...Of the vendors, which one offers the best set and why?
Rustproof
1559


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 04:29:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: What parts should I carry with me?

Another really good item to carry is the table that converts RPM to
road speed. I keep it in the binnacle just in case the speedometer
should die. It takes up no room. Just make sure you have the correct
one. There are 2, one for the automatic and 1 for the 5-speed. As for
the hoses, I believe they should be changed every 20 years, no matter
what shape they are in! At the 20 year mark you are going to change
ALL the hoses, hose clamps, the water pump, all the seals and gaskets,
belts, idler pulley bearings, thermostat, otterstadt switch, and
possibly the radiator. These parts were not meant to last 10 years! If
you think it is expensive doing all this work, it is, but what will a
cooked engine cost, include the towing. And you will still have to do
all of this anyway. The cooling system is one of the weaker links on a
Delorean so it should be given special attention. The electrical
system is a close second.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> It is recommended replace all coolant hoses every 4 years, thats why.
> 








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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 04:48:06 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Who has the best door struts?

Rustproof - DeLorean Parts Northwest!  Why?  Built-in temperature 
compensation valving for consistent performance throughout a wider 
temperature range, and we offer a limited lifetime warranty to the 
original purchaser on the original car.  The same holds true for our 
trunk and louver struts.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_c...> wrote:
Now the question...Of the vendors, which one offers the best set and 
why?
> Rustproof
> 1559









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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 04:17:43 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Frame off assembly

Hello,
Just for your info I was finally able to download some pics from my
00915 off frame 
assembly. check in the photo files under 00915, special Thanks to
Monte BTTF 
(Taylor Mi) & Byron (Waterford,Mi) for all their assistance with
helping put my Patoon 
back on my frame. I've been pecking away at putting it back together
every Sunday 
(my only day off). I found a box of parts I though I had bead blasted
& painted but, 
geuss what ? there not blasted or painted another hold up They should
be done by 
Sunday though. I'll try to post updates. if you live close or just
want to come out to 
see, chat or help just give me an email or call 313-506-3786 5637
Roosevelt 
Dearborn Heights,Mi.48125  








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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 23:22:07 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: starter question


Joe,

I'm a little confused by your post (just the battery power part), but you 
are highly likely to get the car started as long as your battery has a 
decent charge.  My DeLorean is the easiest car to roll start I've ever 
driven.  Granted, I have no real reason for roll starting it; sometimes I 
just do it for shits and grins.  In fact, if I have any grade at all enough 
to for the car to roll, the thing will start right up.  You won't need near 
25MPH.  --Just a little momentum is all you need.

Oh, and make sure you have the key in the "Run" position before you try, or 
you'll feel really dumb when it doesn't work!  :-\

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_davidson.edu>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 8:20 PM
Subject: [DML] starter question


> My starter solenoid is shot, and the car naturally doesn't crank at all. 
> If I were to push it out of its parking space and role it down the hill am 
> I likely able to get it going so I can drive it to the shop to change the 
> starter on a lift?  I have been able to "pop start it" before when the 
> starter still worked but the battery was just too low, and I couldn't get 
> jumper cables, but never without a starter at all.  I have about a 40 ft 
> hill that could probably have me going about 25 mph if I just let it role 
> to the bottom, but I am not sure that it works like this.  If I try to 
> "pop start" it with a completely nonfunctioning starter, am I likely to 
> get it started?
> Thanks
> Joe P.
> VIN17167 6808
>






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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 04:55:12 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: starter question

Joe - Timing is everything in this operation.  You have to turn the 
key to the "ON" position *just* before popping the clutch.  The 
reason is that the fuel pump shuts off after a very brief period if 
it doesn't get a signal that the engine is running.  This is a 
safety feature to prevent flooding, etc.  The only way around this 
that I know of is to remove the RPM relay and install a jumper to 
keep the fuel pump running.  This is described in the shop manual 
for perfroming various fuel system checks that require a running 
pump, but not a running engine.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> My starter solenoid is shot, and the car naturally doesn't crank 
at all.  If I were to push it out of its parking space and role it 
down the hill am I likely able to get it going so I can drive it to 
the shop to change the starter on a lift?  I have been able to "pop 
start it" before when the starter still worked but the battery was 
just too low, and I couldn't get jumper cables, but never without a 
starter at all.  I have about a 40 ft hill that could probably have 
me going about 25 mph if I just let it role to the bottom, but I am 
not sure that it works like this.  If I try to "pop start" it with a 
completely nonfunctioning starter, am I likely to get it started?
> Thanks
> Joe P.
> VIN17167 6808 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 23:58:31 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay

yeah, this guys a jerk off.
He has been buying my stuff, (and everyone elses) copies it, and resells it.
He uses an alternate address to buy, then uses a different one to sell.

Here is a rip of my DVD that I have been selling for years and years for $10 
with free shipping,
he sold it for over $20?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=60881&item=6384655063

I would beware of anything he has, plus you will pay more for international 
shipping.
There is nothing that he has that I don't.
Where do you think he got it?

- VB

>From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, 
>dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay
>Date: Sun, 1 May 2005 21:46:02 EDT
>
>
>Hello Gentleman,
>
>There is a DVD for sale on Ebay, here are the details:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=60881&item=6392269295&r
>d=1
>
>Has anyone seen this video and would you recommend it?
>
>Thank You,
>Michael





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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 05:29:40 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Idle problem

Why have you set the idle so high? If you're idling it manually, you
can pick fairly precisely whatever RPM's you want.

Which idle method are you using -- brass manifold screws or cracked
throttle plates?

If you're using the manifold screws, replace their O rings. After 24
years they probably aren't sealing tightly (not an issue when the
brass tapers are fully seated).

In the latter days of my K Jetronic, and now with a carb sans throttle
lever solenoid, I have two manual idle settings -- winter time and
slightly higher in the summer to compensate for compressor load (about
100 extra RPM).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Now I am running on manual idle, once the engine turns over it reves
> to about 1400RMPS now, not as high as before. What should I look at
> next? -----Dani B. #5003








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