From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2604
Date: Wednesday, May 04, 2005 7:05 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Front license plate holder
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>

2. Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Front license plate holder
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

4. Re: Emissions Tuning
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

5. Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges.
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>

6. VB
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Front license plate holder
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Re: Replacing speakers and follow-up trim work.
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

9. RE: Front license plate holder
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. RE: Emissions Tuning
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>

11. Re: VB Radio Harness.
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. RE: Emissions Tuning
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

13. Who has the best Door Struts
From: "delorean02378" <delorean02378_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. RE: VB Radio Harness.
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. RE: FREE STUFF --- Was: DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges.
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Searching for Brandon Moody
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

18. Delorean Sigting in Galveston TX
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>

19. Re: VB Radio Harness (Location of Common Junction)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Re: Generosity In The DeLo Community (Items Given Away For Free)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: Fan Thoughts (John Hervey)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Re: AC question
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

23. Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

24. Re: VB
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. Re: VB Radio Harness.
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 10:44:04 -0400
From: Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Front license plate holder

Maybe there was a goof and they sent you a stainless steel throttle  
cover instead?  If they did, it should look like this:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/stainless-steel- 
throttle-co.jpg

The fact that you mentioned it has a hole at the top and bottom makes  
me think it might be this.

Patrick C.
1880


On May 4, 2005, at 9:51 AM, John Macias wrote:

> Has anyone purchased the stainless steel license plate holder from
> SpecialTAuto? I went with theirs (cheapest) but cannot figure out how
> to install it, it only has one hole on each end. The others I have
> seen from other suppliers have two on one end and three on the other.
> I called SpecialTAuto, but the person I spoke to (I think he said his
> name was John) said he has not seen the part, and could not make a
> determination on how it should be installed. This is my first order
> from this supplier, and unfortunately they did not have a picture of
> the item when you place the order. Any suggestions? Should I return
> the part?
>
> John
> vin #7009




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 07:56:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges

Paul,
I used regular Rubber Cement. Those black binder clips held it in place while I
let it dry for an hour. The inner rubber door seal covers all but one goof-ed up
cut mark. Hasn't come apart on me yet.

Shannon Y
16506

-------------------
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 11:47:33 -0000
   From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges.

After replacing my rear speakers, I need to adhere the thin vinyl flap 
of the rear trim panels back around the door edge/lip.  Someone 
mentioned 3M 90, but am not familiar with what that is, nor could I 
find it or something suitable at Home Depot this morning.  Any help 
with what I should be looking for?

Thanks,

Paul
VIN 010944

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 10:23:15 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Front license plate holder

If it is the original DMC part you have to make holes in your front 
bumper to install it.

Mark V



On May 4, 2005, at 8:51 AM, John Macias wrote:

> Has anyone purchased the stainless steel license plate holder from
> SpecialTAuto? I went with theirs (cheapest) but cannot figure out how
> to install it, it only has one hole on each end. The others I have
> seen from other suppliers have two on one end and three on the other.
> I called SpecialTAuto, but the person I spoke to (I think he said his
> name was John) said he has not seen the part, and could not make a
> determination on how it should be installed. This is my first order
> from this supplier, and unfortunately they did not have a picture of
> the item when you place the order. Any suggestions? Should I return
> the part?
>
> John
> vin #7009




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 15:24:16 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: Emissions Tuning

Mike,
     I have the Island Twin Turbo setup in my car and experienced 
the same thing this year.  Granted, I do have cats as AZ wouldn't 
allow me to register the car without them-long story.  Anyway, you 
can get the Island setup to pass without cats.  My car did in NY 
when Rob Grady had tuned it.  Here's what happened to me this year:

     Everything was high, although HC and NOx just barely failing.  
The car was only four years out of Rob's shop and I couldn't figure 
it out.  I only had 10,000 miles on it since it had left Rob's 
care.  I leaned out the mixture and that brought the HC and NOx down 
to acceptable levels.  CO here is measured in grams/mile.  We are 
allowed 20.  I was testing at over 41.  I was told it was still too 
rich and that there was a lot of unburned fuel in the exhaust.  You 
could hear it crackling when it hit the cats after the car was good 
and hot.  I even tried a can of Berryman's "Guaranteed to pass" 
stuff.  They were nice about giving me my money back....:)
     So I leaned it out some more.  No joy.  CO was now 36.  I 
couldn't get any leaner for fear of the dreaded knock.  I replaced 
the O2 sensor and that brought the HC and NOx down to almost 
nothing.  However, CO was still in the high 30's.  
     So finally I put a timing gun on it.  The timing was dead on, 
but the gun was firing intermittantly.  I thought my gun was bad so 
I tried another gun-same thing.  So I tried the gun on different 
wires.  Turns out #1 and #5 spark plug wires were bad and only 
firing intermittantly.  I figured if I was going to do wires, I'd do 
plugs, cap, and rotor.  All of these looked good except for 1 and 5 
which showed the telltale signs of running really rich.  
     So with everything back together and the mixture returned to 
the original setting, I tested again.  CO was 13.84 grams/mile!  
VICTORY!

So check your plugs and wires.  You might find the problem there.  
And if you want a K&N air filter, let me know.  I recently upgraded 
to one and I am happy with the results.

Matthew
VIN 16816

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Townsley" 
<michaeltownsley_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> my car has failed the new state auto emissions testing protocol in 
CT.
> 
> The results were as follows:
> 
>  
> 
>               HC(PPM)                CO (%)         NOx (PPM)
> 
>  
> 
> Allowed       172                    0.55               1207
> 
>  
> 
> Emissions     205                    1.52               1548
> 
> Contributing factors could be that I have twin turbos with out 
cats and 
> I have an exhaust manifold leak. I recall some previous discussion 
on 
> the DML about adjusting the car to pass emissions testing without 
a cat 
> (and if fact my car did pass 3 years ago). Can anyone tell me what 
> tuning proceedure I should use to get the lowest possible 
emissions. 
> Thank you.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Mike Townsley






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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 15:26:35 -0000
From: "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_creeper.com>
Subject: Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges.

Paul,
     3M 90 is a spray adhesive that can be found at Home Depot.  I 
used 3M 77 (not quite as strong) to adhere the fake leather to my rear 
wall with excellent results.  You can't go wrong with the 90 series 
glue.  Actually, you can't go wrong with 3M!

Matthew
VIN 16816 ( Expecting a check from 3M any day now....:) )

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> After replacing my rear speakers, I need to adhere the thin vinyl 
flap 
> of the rear trim panels back around the door edge/lip.  Someone 
> mentioned 3M 90, but am not familiar with what that is, nor could I 
> find it or something suitable at Home Depot this morning.  Any help 
> with what I should be looking for?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> VIN 010944






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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 07:51:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: VB

It is my opinion that Bob has done a great job at keeping himself low-key on this list for quite some time.  I think it's bad form to start negative posts just because he posts something.  If you want to write Bob do it personally, he will respond.  Let's not start trashing him once again.  I haven't alway seen eye to eye with Bob but I feel that he has taken steps to be more a part of this community.   It's getting pretty old people.   I think Bob deserves some space to post here without being dumped on every time he does.  It's not fair.




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 15:59:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Front license plate holder

As with most problems with items purchesed from venders your first
place to go is back to them for support. Most venders are honourable
enough that they will do what they can to help you use their products.
In this case if they don't take it back I guess you could just drill
some holes. Maybe all you have to do is follow the instructions that
were probably included with the product. In all cases if you are not
happy with what you purchesed you should be able to return it. Of
course this assumes it is returnable (some sales may be final) and you
did not alter it. It also assumes you did buy the item recently. Maybe
the reason it was inexpensive (read cheap) was because you have to
drill the holes? If you do decide to return the part don't expect to
recover the shipping costs to and from. Your "best bet" would be to
just drill some holes. It is a little harder to do in S/S than mild
steel so you may need a couple of drills. Use cutting fluid and
resharpen frequently.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Has anyone purchased the stainless steel license plate holder from 
> SpecialTAuto? I went with theirs (cheapest) but cannot figure out how 
> to install it, it only has one hole on each end. The others I have
> seen from other suppliers have two on one end and three on the other.
> I called SpecialTAuto, but the person I spoke to (I think he said his 
> name was John) said he has not seen the part, and could not make a 
> determination on how it should be installed. This is my first order 
> from this supplier, and unfortunately they did not have a picture of 
> the item when you place the order. Any suggestions? Should I return
> the part?
> 
> John
> vin #7009






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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 11:03:58 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Replacing speakers and follow-up trim work.

I used a blade to cut on the very edge of the lip and with a little
heat (hairdryer), was able to pull the trim piece away without further
damage.  After installing my speakers, but before sealing everything
up with glue, etc...  I pushed it all back into place and put the
weatherstrip over it for a test drive, etc...   This was over 6 months
ago.  I haven't done anything else to secure it since, as it all
stayed in place nicely.  If the weatherstrip will cover your damage...
 you may just want to give it a try.

--Greg
#2894

On 5/2/05, sweetp01569 <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> I had a question regarding my assembly of the rear trim panels after I
> put the new rear speakers in.  The trim panels that cover the rear
> speakers, which includes the rear portion of the armrest that
> continues from the door, was glued around the lip that the door seal
> presses on to.  The vinyl trim is very thin where it wraps around this
> lip and was a beast to pull apart!   In doing so, the thin layer of
> glued trim (that is normally hidden beneath the door seal) tore and
> ripped away from the visible trim seen in the car; enough in a couple
> of spots to be visible if reassembled.  I was as careful as I could be
> when prying the trim from the glue, but evidently, it was not enough
> to prevent the dried vinyl from cracking and tearing.  As a result, I
> needed to order new trim pieces.   When I reinstall the new pieces, do
> I need to glue it back, or will the door seal be enough to hold in
> place?




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 11:13:59 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Front license plate holder

John, The plate holder are made to fit the stock spoiler on the car. If
yours has been modified or something has changed, then yes it may not fit. I
checked it out this morning and everything on a stock car was fine. I placed
a call to you.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of John Macias
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2005 7:51 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Front license plate holder


> Has anyone purchased the stainless steel license plate holder from
> SpecialTAuto? I went with theirs (cheapest) but cannot figure out how
> to install it, it only has one hole on each end. The others I have
> seen from other suppliers have two on one end and three on the other.
> I called SpecialTAuto, but the person I spoke to (I think he said his
> name was John) said he has not seen the part, and could not make a
> determination on how it should be installed. This is my first order
> from this supplier, and unfortunately they did not have a picture of
> the item when you place the order. Any suggestions? Should I return
> the part?
> 
> John
> vin #7009




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 09:25:39 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Emissions Tuning

oops, see what I get for doing email when I'm tired, missed the whole last
section...

Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Darkstar
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2005 12:04 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Emissions Tuning


> If I remember correctly CO is partially burnt fuel, HC is unburnt
> fuel.  I think what you are seeing is a bad cat. the possibility
> of a rich condition is unlikely due to the high NOx.  you are close
> in every number so simply running the car at 3500 RPM for about a
> minute to heat the cat may work. if you have a non contact pyrometer
> you can measure cat function. the area atthe upstream part of the cat
> should be about 100 degrees cooler then the output side due to the
> chemical reaction. It's been a while since I have done smog tech
> stuff so I am a bit rusty. Anyone, feel free to correct me if
> I am wrong.
> 
> Darkstar

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Michael Townsley
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 5:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Emissions Tuning

> my car has failed the new state auto emissions testing protocol in CT.
>
> The results were as follows:
>
>               HC(PPM)                CO (%)         NOx (PPM)
>
>
>
> Allowed       172                    0.55               1207
>
>
>
> Emissions     205                    1.52               1548
>
> Contributing factors could be that I have twin turbos with out cats > and
I have an exhaust manifold leak. I recall some previous
> discussion on the DML about adjusting the car to pass emissions
> testing without a cat (and if fact my car did pass 3 years ago).
> Can anyone tell me what tuning proceedure I should use to get the
> lowest possible emissions. Thank you.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Mike Townsley




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 09:26:35 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: VB Radio Harness.

Besides that, anyone who really wants one of these should buy it for
$3.00 from allelectronics.com. Same exact thing VB sells for $12.95.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category==search&item==CON-90&type==store

Hey Marc, what is the actual difference between the common ground &
floating ground when it comes to wiring? Any stereo I've ever had (and
I don't buy cheap, low power garbage) just connects black to ground.

-Ryan

On 5/4/05, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> If you are installing an after market "high power"
> stereo, run new wires.
> 
> The older stereo's used a "common ground", where
> modern high power units use "floating ground".  If you
> wire a floating ground unit to a common ground
> configuration it WILL play  but you will blow up the
> radio in a short time.
> 
> VB's harness will work in the rare circumstance that
> you are replacing the stock radio with another
> low-power crappy radio.  I have yet to see ANYONE do
> this in a DeLorean, which is why VB's harness is
> pretty much useless.
> 
> You could cut his harness and use just the power and
> ground leads to power your new stereo, but this is not
> a great idea either.  Newer high-power stereos also
> consume more power, and the stock wire may not handle
> the additional load...  but either way you should run
> new wires to the speakers.
> 
> --- Patrick Conlon <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> > Is there a problem with VB's harness?  I just bought
> > one, and would be
> > curious to know if it will present a problem if I
> > choose to install a
> > new stereo.  I really don't want to have to rip the
> > panels off to
> > replace the speaker wire, but it sounds like I
> > really have to from the
> > discussion here.
> >
> > -Patrick C.
> > 1880
> >




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 13:33:49 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: RE: Emissions Tuning

Darkstar,

You asked for corrections and the only observation I have about your 
assessment is your comment about bad cats. In the  original post it was mentioned that 
he has NO cats.... but did pass before.

Question ... When he did pass were the maximums the same?

Respectfully,
Dē & 6530




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 18:11:12 -0000
From: "delorean02378" <delorean02378_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Who has the best Door Struts

PJ GRADY!! Hands down.

I posted something about this a few months ago. I ordered some new ones 
from Houston and I must say, this is the only part that I have not been 
100% satisfied with. They don't open the door fully as Rob's did. Don't 
think it has anything to do with a door adjustment, they simple did not 
raise the door all the way up or stay up like the previous ones (PJ. 
Gradys) when they were new.


Kirk Vin# 02378








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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 13:15:54 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: VB Radio Harness.

I will have to disagree with you Marc.
I don't think you have ever seen one of my harness' in person have you?
I also don't think you understand the concept of what it is for, and how it 
is used.
I have been using one for years, and have sold almost 100 of these, all to 
happy
customers who are using them safely without one single complaint or instance
of failure! Why complicate things Marc?
It's just a wire harness and plug that matches the factory plug!

Using my harness adapter, you simply plug it in to the original wire plug 
that leads
to the factory radio. This 9-pin harness includes the constant power, 
accessory power,
the power ground, and the speaker connections.
When using the adapter, your only real benefits are tapping the power, and 
avoiding
cutting of the original wire harness.
When installing a new modern radio it would be best to run an additional 
ground
from the grounding point on the back of the radio to some other part of the 
console frame.
Unlike a regular steel car that just grounds everything to it's own frame or 
body....
Since the DeLorean doesn't have all these unlimited grounding points they 
have made one
in the metal frame of the console housing by directly running a grounding 
wire that runs
from the electrical compartment to a point on the console.
In different cars it is sometimes in different places, but usually in a big 
clump with a bunch
of other grounds from everything in the console, (clock, lights, switches, 
etc.)
You can add your extra ground here.

The car's harness, and my adapter with both handle the power of any
radio sold today. The original power wires still contain a fused link for 
protection.
However, you may not add other accesories to this power lead, such as an
equalizer, amplifier, CB radio, etc.... these need to have new power leads
run from the power compartment or the battery itself.

You will want to use all new speaker wires on your new radio.
I suggest buying two harness (or using any other standard 8-pin or larger 
harness)
for the speaker connections. (makes for easy removal).
You will wire the speaker connections directly from the radio to their 
locations.
The reason you can not simply use the original wire harness is because the 
old Craig
radios used a different type of grounding system.
Rather than have a positive and negative for each speaker, they use one 
negative that
was shared for each side (left & right) and a positive for each speaker.
This is why there is only 6 wire connections on the harness for the 4 
speakers.
The left over 3 wires are for your two power, and ground.

The point of the harness is to avoid cutting into your wire harness and 
preserving the
original integrity of the car. I have been using one of my harnesses on my 
Sony MP3
stereo for years. My Sony has a built in hard drive in it and uses more 
power than most
radios, I have NEVER had a problem with the harness.

If you are installing a system that requires more power than the gauge of 
wire the harness
can provide them PLEASE tap directly off of your battery, using a fused link 
or breaker,
and go directly to the radio and system.
DO NOT CUT YOUR WIRES.

My goal with my products to protect the cars in their original forms, yet 
allow modern
conveniences. My harness, my antenna, my LED lights, my decals, my BTTF 
props,
all of them are designed to be plug and play with NO MODIFICATIONS to the 
car what-so-ever.
I don not want future generations of cars to be all be destroyed so that the 
current generation
can enjoy some tunes.
For only a few bucks you can avoid cutting your original wire harness.

- Videobob


>From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] VB Radio Harness.
>Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 06:53:20 -0700 (PDT)
>
>If you are installing an after market "high power"
>stereo, run new wires.
>
>The older stereo's used a "common ground", where
>modern high power units use "floating ground".  If you
>wire a floating ground unit to a common ground
>configuration it WILL play  but you will blow up the
>radio in a short time.
>
>VB's harness will work in the rare circumstance that
>you are replacing the stock radio with another
>low-power crappy radio.  I have yet to see ANYONE do
>this in a DeLorean, which is why VB's harness is
>pretty much useless.
>
>You could cut his harness and use just the power and
>ground leads to power your new stereo, but this is not
>a great idea either.  Newer high-power stereos also
>consume more power, and the stock wire may not handle
>the additional load...  but either way you should run
>new wires to the speakers.

[long quote snipped by moderator]




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 13:22:29 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: FREE STUFF --- Was: DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay

Thanks for the flyers... yes I passed out a lot of them.

And, I give away a ton of videos on my website.
But I can only do so much.
I can't stream 1 hour episodes of stuff, just can't do it.
Anything that is printable or downloadable I give away.

Have you seen my http://www.bttfstuff.com website?
I give away every single Back To The Future prop that can be downloaded.
This is the same stuff that everyone sells on eBay.
Where do you think they got it?
They got it from MY free website!!!!

I also give detailed instructions as to how to build the metal fabricated 
props.
Even though I do sell these props, I will teach how to do them yourself and 
where
to get the props.
If your a BTTF fan you need to check it out.

I anticipate having my car totally converted to a time machine for the next 
show,
and I hope to take the trophy home this time!

- Videobob


- Videobob

>From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: DMC - DML News Post'n <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] FREE STUFF --- Was: DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay
>Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 05:46:17 -0700 (PDT)
>
>[Subject line slightly changed by moderator Mike Substelny]
>
>Yo St. Video Claus,
>I don't charge anybody for the DMC FAQ Facts Sheet I created.
>http://www.ohiodeloreans.com/gallery-Fact%20Sheet.htm
>And I remember you almost passed out a ream of them at your St. Patty's Day
>Shin-Dig.
>Did you click on the other link where you can get a few free desktop 
>images?
>Texas is a bit far for me but I would still help you work on your car... 
>for
>free, and I'm sure most others would do so as well... at least all the 
>people up
>this-a-way in the D community do too.
>So you can say I am one of those friggin persons ;-)
>
>Like I said before... enjoy, inform the masses & your welcome.
>
>Shannon Y (giving stuff away for free)
>16506
>
>---------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 16:30:26 -0500
>    From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay
>
>I give free copies of the video to all the members of my club.
>Anyone who attends one of my free BBQ's can have one.
>Come to house, hang out on the rear deck, take a swim in the pool,
>bring your DeLorean over and I will help you work on it and let you use my
>tools
>for free.... but if you want me to make one and mail it to you - it's $10.
>That's the deal.
>
>I do a lot of trading with other people too,
>but I have not seen one single friggin person ever come out and offer to
>GIVE
>anything away - EVER.
>
>When the F- did I become Santa Clause?




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 11:24:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges.

You should be able to find a "Spray Adhesive" at Home
Depot.  If I remember correctly, the 3M is in a can
that's red at the top and fades to black at the
bottom.  Also, you can go to an automotive supply
place like Pep Boys and get "3M General Trim Adhesive"
 (White can, red letters).  I've done several
headliners and interior projects and found the 3M
brand to work better than the other "spray adhesives".
 You do have to be careful not to get it on any
finished surfaces as it can be a real pain to get off.

Another option that wouldn't risk the overspray
associated with sprays is to use a little "DAP" it's
also a contact cement, but comes in a can and is
brushed on.  You put it on one surface, then some on
the other surface, wait three minutes and stick them
together.  Done.  (Just don't let them touch before
you have them in position or it's like trying to get
duct tape apart after it touches itself.)

Hope that helps,

P.S.  All of this stuff is flamable and nasty for the
respiratory system so use only in a well ventilated
areas, away from heat sources, with a respirator, etc.
etc. etc.

Steve
--- sweetp01569 <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> After replacing my rear speakers, I need to adhere
> the thin vinyl flap 
> of the rear trim panels back around the door
> edge/lip.  Someone 
> mentioned 3M 90, but am not familiar with what that
> is, nor could I 
> find it or something suitable at Home Depot this
> morning.  Any help 
> with what I should be looking for?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> VIN 010944




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 19:21:04 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Searching for Brandon Moody

If Brandon Moody is still on the list pplease contact me at 
birdwells_at_dml_usa.net. Thanks

Shannon






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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 19:22:54 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_usa.net>
Subject: Delorean Sigting in Galveston TX

I was in Galveston on Tuesdau April 26th. At about 3:30 I spotted a 
Delorean driving away from Strand Street but was not able to flag down 
the owner. It looked like an Arizona license plate (dark red with white 
lettering). Was that anyone ont he list?

Shannon
VIN 16113






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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 19:41:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: VB Radio Harness (Location of Common Junction)

The commons are tied together right behind the A/C console. If you
don't mind using factory 18-20 GA wire to the speakers, you can make
individual connections there.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> If you are installing an after market "high power"
> stereo, run new wires.
> 
> The older stereo's used a "common ground", where
> modern high power units use "floating ground".  If you
> wire a floating ground unit to a common ground
> configuration it WILL play  but you will blow up the
> radio in a short time.
> 
> VB's harness will work in the rare circumstance that
> you are replacing the stock radio with another
> low-power crappy radio.  I have yet to see ANYONE do
> this in a DeLorean, which is why VB's harness is
> pretty much useless.
> 
> You could cut his harness and use just the power and
> ground leads to power your new stereo, but this is not
> a great idea either.  Newer high-power stereos also
> consume more power, and the stock wire may not handle
> the additional load...  but either way you should run
> new wires to the speakers.
> 







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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 20:08:00 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Generosity In The DeLo Community (Items Given Away For Free)

I have "loaned" (probably given away in fact):
- Series 038 CPR
- Two ignition distributors

I have truly given away:
- Lambda and idle speed ECU's
- High pressure fuel pump
- Gutted catalytic converter
- Rear fascia
- Tail light lenses
- Brand new set of plug wires
- Several pair of non-shear head balancing screws

Plus untold hose clamps, copper sealing washers, stainless hardware, etc.

I'm sure I am just the tip of the iceberg in the DeLo community
(didn't Dave Swingle recently give away a gutted converter too? Dave
Stragand gave away a radiator and drove several hundred miles to
install it).

Josh Haldeman "gives away" potentially higher profit on just about
every part he sells.

And don't forget the single most valuable item given away quite
lavishly in this community: *TIME*. Lots of it.

I'd submit that DeLorean owners are some of the most generous people
you will ever meet.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:

> 
> I do a lot of trading with other people too,
> but I have not seen one single friggin person ever come out and
offer to 
> GIVE
> anything away - EVER.
> 







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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 20:34:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Fan Thoughts (John Hervey)

I'm going to try this broad band...

The reason DeLorean fans come on with A/C irrespective of MPH is
because it's an extremely simple circuit. I'm still using a pair of
teeth rattling originals. Believe it or not, you can feel them cycling
even at 75 MPH.

My theory of DOA newer vehicles -- cooling systems in summer heat for
example -- is that every single system in the car (cooling,
electricals, fuel delivery, exhaust) operates within a much narrower
window of tolerance than older vehicles. In the bad old days, systems
could degrade 50% and remain functional. Part of this was necessary
due to the less refined consumables used in them (gas, oil, coolant,
filters, spark plugs, etc). Part of this was simply inert design
theory -- there was no size or weight penalty for making systems
bigger than they had to be.

3 row radiators (100% copper) used to be the norm. Now most of them
are single row, with aluminum cores only. Radiators used to sit full
face at least 1/2 width of the vehicle (which was itself much wider
than contemporary models). Now, they are very small and tucked away in
a corner of the engine compartment. Radiator hoses used to be more
than 2" in diameter. Now, they are closer to 1". You get the idea.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> A scientific wind tunnel study wasn't done, but by my CFM meter I
bought I
> estimate about 80% compared to the original. Maybe someone can tell
me or
> direct me somewhere that at what point that moving hot air over the
radiator
> at what speed makes no difference in the cooling or drawing capacity
of the
> fans. What I have heard is at 35 to 40 mph the fans make no
difference. I
> never could understand why driving at certain temps that the fans
even need
> to be on when the AC is on.
> Any where in the south where we have 100+ degrees is subject to test
even
> the best cooling systems in even the newer cars.  As you all know,
we even
> see newer cars pulled over to the side of the road in stop and go summer
> time traffic.
> I have also heard of some people driving year round on one Delorean
fan with
> no problem. A lot of people complain about the current draw and light
> dimming when the original fans come on and not counting the 30 amp +
load on
> the electrical circuit.
> I also feel a lot of over heating is caused by not properly
inspecting the
> car for a lot of things. How many $20.00 otterstat are replaced
every 2 to 3
> years or even inspected. I have seen several that I show on the site
that
> split because they were so old and folks wondered why the car over
heated.
> I can go on and on about heating and cooling, but they are what they
are and
> have all the pluses that I listed on the site.
> If anyone would like to discuss this further I would welcome the
dialog, but
> due to the long conversations I have had it would be better off line
and the
> conclusion posted.
> Thanks for asking.
> John Hervey
> 







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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 22:57:17 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: AC question

The vacuum hose is fine, I even tested it a few weeks ago while I had
the dash out. It doesn't sound like a hiss, its like a wirling
sound...Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> Nobody seems to have tackled this one yet, so I'll have a go.  Check
the 
> vacuum hose to the fresh air door or the diaphram/vacuum motor itself 
> there on the right side. You may have to take out the glovebox
bucket to 
> get to it.
> Warren at DMC
> 
> 
> 
> stainlessilusion wrote:
> > I was looking through the old posts to see if this came up but I
> > couldn't find anything. I charged and finally have my AC back up and
> > running again but when I turn on the system- I get this annoying
> > wooshing sound that fades finally when I turn the AC off. Sounds like
> > is coming from the evaporator/receiver-drier area. System doesn't seem
> > to be leaking and has good pressure,it also puts out nice cold
> > air-everything is running as it should. But what is this sound and how
> > do I rid it... Any thoughts? Dani B. #5003




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 22:55:26 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)

Okay, so now I just got a NOS idle motor and when I plug it in-nothing
happens. I cleaned the grounds on both sides of the intake and checked
the voltage in the plug. I get 5.4 in plug 5, 12.4 in plug 4, and 4.?
in plug 3...why is there no ground? I know the motor switch is fine
because the solenoid will still click when you open the switch. Fuses
are all good. I took out the ECU and opened it up, there doesn't seem
to be any melted parts on the front of the board, but I can't find any
pictures to match the back of the board to. I have some browned solder
here and there where the green coating melted, but everything is still
connected. I don't have my digital camera with me today otherwise I
would have taken a picture. I tested the motor with a 12 volt battery
briefly and it seems to work. Now what? hmmm....Dani B. #5003






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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 17:15:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: VB

I know it is not the practice of the DML to publish 
"me too" posts - - but I must agree with Tom.  

I used to participate in the DMCForum but finally had
all I could take of the back & forth stuff (a kind
description) between VB and Marc.  On the DMCForum is
goes on ad infinitum/ad nauseum.  It seems as if it
never ends because to not get the last word is to lose
the argument/battle.

Moderators:  To insist upon civility and lack of
PERSONAL criticism is NOT censorship.

Both Marc and Bob are ardent supporters of the
DeLorean and the people who are interested in them. 
They have different views upon how to play an active
role in our community.  PLEASE - let them air their
differences 
"Off -List".   I, and, I am sure, many others will
appreciate this. 

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867 

 


--- Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> It is my opinion that Bob has done a great job at
> keeping himself low-key on this list for quite some
> time.  I think it's bad form to start negative posts
> just because he posts something.  If you want to
> write Bob do it personally, he will respond.  Let's
> not start trashing him once again.  I haven't alway
> seen eye to eye with Bob but I feel that he has
> taken steps to be more a part of this community.  
> It's getting pretty old people.   I think Bob
> deserves some space to post here without being
> dumped on every time he does.  It's not fair.




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 20:00:42 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: VB Radio Harness.

You have tried to circumvent me by posting this information before.
Last time, as this time I pointed out the that they are $3.00 each, with 
$6.00 shipping,
(+ tax if applicable)
Still a few bucks cheaper than mine, but they don't include a wire diagram
to tell you what thier colors mean, and what the DeLorean colors mean. - I 
DO.
I don't care what a couple of trouble makers think.
My customers support me, and also know that I usually include lots of 
freebie stuff
with every order, stickers, BTTF props, DVD's.... etc.
I would like to see you try to call "All Electronics Corp" and ask them...
"Which one of these wires interfaces with the accesory power on a DeLoren?"
...and see what they say.
- VB

>From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] VB Radio Harness.
>Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 09:26:35 -0700
>
>Besides that, anyone who really wants one of these should buy it for
>$3.00 from allelectronics.com. Same exact thing VB sells for $12.95.
>
>http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category==search&item==CON-90&type==store
>
>Hey Marc, what is the actual difference between the common ground &
>floating ground when it comes to wiring? Any stereo I've ever had (and
>I don't buy cheap, low power garbage) just connects black to ground.
>
>-Ryan

[very long quote trimmed by moderator]




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________________________________________________________________________


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