From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2606
Date: Thursday, May 05, 2005 10:57 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Johnny Carson D
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Aliquippa Tech Session
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>

3. Floating ground..
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: VB
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: VB
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Speaker "Grounds"
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. RE: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Stock Springs & Struts
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges.
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: Sam Hill <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. The DeLorean Owners Directory
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>

15. Re: VB Radio Harness.
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>

16. Re: Replacing speakers and follow-up trim work.
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Restorable or Parts Car?
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

19. Re: VB
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. RE: FREE STUFF
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: VB Radio Harness.
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

22. Floating Ground Adapter: (was: VB)
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

23. Re: Johnny Carson D
From: Delorean3_at_dml_aol.com

24. SHOCKS AND LOWERING DELOREANS
From: "Carl Davis" <carldavis_at_dml_familykia.com>

25. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 02:38:11 -0000
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Johnny Carson D

I was following the auction on ebay and had to leave with about an hour 
left.  The bid was at $35000 and the reserve had been met.  Does anyone 
know what the final price was?






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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 02:42:16 -0000
From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Aliquippa Tech Session

Hello,
 Can anyone going to or living in PA give me directions to the session or at least an 
address so I can go to mapquest?  Email me off list if you don't want to post address.
Lawrence Vin#00538m,00915a






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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 19:46:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Floating ground..

Part of the problem is that most people think of "-"
being the same as "ground" which is not always true. 
This is why the DMC has a sticker warning that the car
is "negative ground" or "negative earth"....  Yes,
there are some cars (mostly British) out there that
are "Positive Earth".  It is all a matter of
reference.

Audio is AC.  On the stock DMC radio, the "+" wire is
the AC output of the system with ground as the
reference.

In a high power application, they bridge the
amplifier.  Essentially, they invert the AC signal and
then amplify it.  This inverted signal becomes the "-"
with ground as the reference.

If you hook up your speaker between "+" and "-" you
will have twice the power as if you hook it between
"+" and ground.  If you hook the speaker between "-"
and ground, you will also have sound but it will be
out of phase. 

The problem is, if you hook up the "-" to ground (as
would happen if you use the VB harness), you create a
dead short.  With no load on the amplifier, you will
draw maximum current through it.  It will get hot
until it destroys itself.

Try this: (Hard to explain over e-mail!)

Draw a straight horizontal line.  This straight line
is "ground".  

Then, draw a SIN wave on top of the straight line.
0-180 deg is (at or) ABOVE the 0 line, 180-360 is (at
or) BELOW the 0 line.  This represents the "+" output
on your stereo.  The "power" is represented by the
distance from the "ground" to the SIN wave.

Next, Draw an inverted SIN wave.  This represents the
"-" output.  Now, instead of "ground" being the
reference, note the distance from "+" to "-".  It is
twice as much.

Maybe someone can dig up a web link with some
pictures.


--- Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey Marc, what is the actual difference between the
> common ground &
> floating ground when it comes to wiring? Any stereo
> I've ever had (and
> I don't buy cheap, low power garbage) just connects
> black to ground.
> 



	
		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 19:24:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: VB

[Moderator Note: In the interests of serving our subscribers, we allow LIMITED meta-discussion on the DML.  Nevertheless discussions about how the DML operates are not our primary focus and I will not allow them to dominate the conversation.  Please keep responses polite, and know the topic will be cut off soon.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]

Tom,

Are you saying that mis-information should not be
corrected?

It is funny, because I have posted dozens of times
that VB's radio harness *WILL* damage modern
high-power radios.  Yet, this time around I got a
private message asking me for more details.

I have had posts rejected because "we have heard it
all before", specifically when I point out things
related to DMCH.  This latest discussion just enforces
the idea that there should be no leeway.

Video Bob has made many posts that have not been
"trashed" (your words).   I don't trash people, I
trash content.

If you cant take the criticism, then best not to post
to a public forum.  There are 1000+ members of this
list, and maybe 10% of us post on a regular basis.  If
VB can't take the heat for his posts, he can lurk.

I have had posts trashed too..  Sometimes I realize I
am wrong, and say so.. Other times I hold my ground
and the subject either goes away or the moderators
kill the thread.  All part of participation in a
public mailing list.


--- Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> It is my opinion that Bob has done a great job at
> keeping himself low-key on this list for quite some
> time.  I think it's bad form to start negative posts
> just because he posts something.  If you want to
> write Bob do it personally, he will respond.  Let's
> not start trashing him once again.  I haven't alway
> seen eye to eye with Bob but I feel that he has
> taken steps to be more a part of this community.  
> It's getting pretty old people.   I think Bob
> deserves some space to post here without being
> dumped on every time he does.  It's not fair.




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 02:49:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: VB

I say we all take VB up on his generous offer and all go down to his
place! Maybe we should hold our next national event there! Sounds like
he will even feed us ALL!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> It is my opinion that Bob has done a great job at keeping himself
low-key on this list for quite some time.  I think it's bad form to
start negative posts just because he posts something.  If you want to
write Bob do it personally, he will respond.  Let's not start trashing
him once again.  I haven't alway seen eye to eye with Bob but I feel
that he has taken steps to be more a part of this community.   It's
getting pretty old people.   I think Bob deserves some space to post
here without being dumped on every time he does.  It's not fair.






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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 03:03:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Speaker "Grounds"

In this context a "Floating Ground" is a ground that is not tied to
the frame or the battery directly. In fact it cannot really be
considered a ground, it is more correctly termed a "return". Another
point to be made is that you should have a separate "return" for each
speaker. Most newer amps do not like it if you tie them togther and it
can degrade the sound. You must also be careful to properly "phase"
the speakers. This means the plus to the plus or red terminal and the
black or minus to the other terminal on each speaker. On many newer
amps if you do attempt to ground a return you will blow the amp in
short order. The origional wiring to the speakers is skimpy at best
but the origional radio only outs out 8 watts per channel so is was
fine for it but if you want more power you must up the wire size. In
the origional harness the front speaker returns were tied togther so
you must separate them if you intend to use the origional wires. If
you are going to go through all the work to change the radio and the
speakers, changing the wires to them is a no-brainer. This is in fact
an AC circuit. Fluctuating DC is AC, just with a different crossover
point.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Marc is talking about the speaker commons, not 12v ground for the unit
> itself.
> 
> Speakers are AC devices, not DC. In the bad old days, there was only
> one amplifier inside a stereo, so it didn't matter if speakers shared
> a common neutral return (amp was just receiving its same sine wave
> back). But modern units usually have separate amplifiers for each
> channel, or at least front & rear. If you tie the returns together,
> amps are going to get screwy polarities back. One is going to be
>






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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 19:48:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

That sounds like a car I saw in a wrecking yard (storage facility?) in Gila Bend years ago. I didn't think it was even a "parts car" at that time. What, pray tell, are they asking for it?
 
Chris 
6301

John Spangler <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net> wrote:
Hi-

I had the experience of checking out a sad DeLorean today, vin #4543
from 10/81 that was painted white and had been sitting in the Tucson,
AZ sun for "at least 8 years" I haven't even touched a DeLorean in
several years, so the opportunity drew me like a moth even though I
knew it wasn't going to be pretty. I was just wondering, at what
point does a car become a "parts car" versus something that could be
restored. Here's the good and the bad:

Good: Tucson is pretty dry, so frame rust *should* be minimal if any,
the body (painted white) seems straight and the doors line up well. 
Good condition front fascia (no eyebrows), it has all 4 wheels plus
the spare, which has been sitting on the engine for who knows how
long. The seats seem ok, as well as some interior bits (gray
interior). It only has 25k miles on the odometer. The trunk release
cable is usable (though the handle is missing), and the glass is all
there and ok, though the tinting turned purple. Doesn't appear to
have been in an accident, just unloved, and the previous owner died
several years ago of old age.

Bad: Definitely non-running, painted white with insides of doors
painted black, 2 blown front tires, SEVERELY cracked dash & binnacle,
no battery (couldn't test anything), possibly no key, filthy interior,
sagging door headliners, struts are rusty and not working well, has
been sitting for 8 years. And off the top of my head I noticed the
following items "missing": Rear louvres & deck lid, air filter housing
(thing with the DMC sticker usually on it), distributor (cables are
everywhere), alternator, fuse cover, and probably lots of other parts
I'm not familiar with. And some part of the rear end fiberglass is
broken, I'm guessing it's a support bracket of some kind, and there's
a pretty good size dent below the bumper line on the rear fascia,
presumably where some meathead tried to tow it but ripped something
off instead.

So, along with not knowing why someone stopped driving it sometime in
the last 23 years... would you consider this a parts car or a
restoration project for some brave soul? I took pictures if anyone
wants to see it.

-John Spangler




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 03:20:12 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

I'm reltively new to D ownership compared to you other guys that have 
owned them for ten years or so, I'm still in high school. My car sat 
for about 5 or 6 years in the Oklahoma wheather. My car seems to be 
in close to the same condition has the one you described.

The good for my car: Stainless steel finish, good tires, original 
seats, poorly recoverd dash and binnacle, new shocks, oil changed 
recently, good hoses, good dash lights, and there are other things 
I'm sure.

Bad: Rotten head liner core/ headliner, Bad carpet, cracked 
windscreen, Rust on the frame, bad ball joints all the way around, 
two bad wheel bearings, nasty gas system, fuel pump sitting in the 
gas, eyebrows, dents in the body, broken decklid stay thing, several 
missing parts in the engine bay, wheels chipping, pantoons show age, 
wheather seals rotted, both fascias are bad and warped, semi melted 
fuse box, broken lower control arm, and it dosn't run yet. With some 
other things that I can't remember.

>From what I gather from other D owners my car would be a parts car or 
restoreable considering who they are. If I had the money to get 
a "good DeLorean" I would have skiped over mine. I consider cars as 
more than machines, everyone has a different personality. If I was in 
the position that you are in, I would restore the car you described. 

I have almost gotten to the point to where my car is running. I plan 
on doing a full restoration on it in about five years. I would love 
to see pictures of the car!! By the way my car cost $9K, it was 
a "bad DeLorean". I love my car more than anything else.

Josh
10989

[long, duplicate quote snipped by moderator]




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 23:19:33 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Restorable or Parts Car?

John, I'm coming out there in a couple of weeks if you would like for me to
look at it.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



[long, duplicate quote snipped by moderator]




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 05:36:41 -0000
From: "brandelorean" <brandelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Stock Springs & Struts

Hey Guys,

I have my stock springs powdercoated and original Girling Struts (Great 
condition).  I'd like to buy the new Eibach setup with new struts as 
well.  I was going to put my original setup on Ebay but I thought I'd 
ask if anyone would like to buy them from me.  I'm still debating this 
issue with myself but I thought I'd ask.

Thanks,

Brandon
Vin 3323
Denver, CO






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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 11:28:58 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges.

Thanks, Steve, for the advice on the adhesive.  I'll give the 3M can 
a try.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Steve Stankiewicz 
<protodelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> You should be able to find a "Spray Adhesive" at Home
> Depot.  If I remember correctly, the 3M is in a can
> that's red at the top and fades to black at the
> bottom.  Also, you can go to an automotive supply
> place like Pep Boys and get "3M General Trim Adhesive"
>  (White can, red letters).  I've done several
> headliners and interior projects and found the 3M
> brand to work better than the other "spray adhesives".
>  You do have to be careful not to get it on any
> finished surfaces as it can be a real pain to get off.
> 
> Another option that wouldn't risk the overspray
> associated with sprays is to use a little "DAP" it's
> also a contact cement, but comes in a can and is
> brushed on.  You put it on one surface, then some on
> the other surface, wait three minutes and stick them
> together.  Done.  (Just don't let them touch before
> you have them in position or it's like trying to get
> duct tape apart after it touches itself.)
> 
> Hope that helps,
> 
> P.S.  All of this stuff is flamable and nasty for the
> respiratory system so use only in a well ventilated
> areas, away from heat sources, with a respirator, etc.
> etc. etc.
> 
> Steve
> --- sweetp01569 <sweetp01569_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > After replacing my rear speakers, I need to adhere
> > the thin vinyl flap 
> > of the rear trim panels back around the door
> > edge/lip.  Someone 
> > mentioned 3M 90, but am not familiar with what that
> > is, nor could I 
> > find it or something suitable at Home Depot this
> > morning.  Any help 
> > with what I should be looking for?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Paul
> > VIN 010944






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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 11:33:13 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges

Hi Shannon ,

Yeah, I have a few MAJOR goof-ups as I made the mistake of not using 
a heat gun to remove the thin vinyl flap from the rear trim panels, 
and destroyed that flap (brittle and cracked off)in the area of the 
rear arm rest, on both the left and right halfs.  If I can get the 
rubber door seal tight enough against the arm rest, I should be able 
to keep my "fool-hardy" mistakes covered up.

Thanks,

Paul

 --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Paul,
> I used regular Rubber Cement. Those black binder clips held it in 
place while I
> let it dry for an hour. The inner rubber door seal covers all but 
one goof-ed up
> cut mark. Hasn't come apart on me yet.
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506
> 
> -------------------
> Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 11:47:33 -0000
>    From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_y...>
> Subject: What adhesive should I use for Trim Panel door edges.
> 
> After replacing my rear speakers, I need to adhere the thin vinyl 
flap 
> of the rear trim panels back around the door edge/lip.  Someone 
> mentioned 3M 90, but am not familiar with what that is, nor could 
I 
> find it or something suitable at Home Depot this morning.  Any 
help 
> with what I should be looking for?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> VIN 010944
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com






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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 21:15:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sam Hill <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

Admit it, you've fallen in love already and 4543 is
calling to you to rescue it from the eternal junk
heap.    Though the paint is the most disconcerting in
my opinion, it looks like you've got a great
opportunity to do an engine swap project...if you
dare!

I find it hard to believe that the car did not enjoy
some kind of coverage for a long part of its life... I
live in Tucson and that fascia should've warped long
ago.

[long, duplicate quote snipped by moderator]




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 22:57:39 -0700
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm_at_dml_csus.edu>
Subject: The DeLorean Owners Directory

   I know a bunch of you are waiting to get access to the Directory.
Please bear with me a bit. I've been hit with 40 new entries and just as
many access requests. It'll take me a few days to get these into the
database and also reply to the requests. At this rate I'll easily have
enough updates to warrant a Fall issue.

Also, I really like the idea of including all the listings of Vendors
and Club Contacts off the 
dmcnews.com website. I'll add the to the back of the next issue.

Ken
=======================================================
Ken Montgomery, Sacramento CA - VIN #10911 'OUTTIME'
http://www.time-traveler.org/delorean/
mailto:kenm_at_dml_csus.edu
President, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club
http://www.ncdmc.org
Keeper of the International DeLorean Owners Directory
http://www.dmcnews.com mailto:directory_at_dml_dmcnews.com
=======================================================




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 07:42:33 -0400
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: VB Radio Harness.

Anyone who wants this info for free, I've had it posted on my website
for several years now, including both the Craig and ASI pin outs, as
well as the new harness with slightly different colors.

http://www.eskin.net/radioharness.html

-Hank

> Still a few bucks cheaper than mine, but they don't include a wire diagram
> to tell you what thier colors mean, and what the DeLorean colors mean. - I
> DO.




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 11:38:56 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing speakers and follow-up trim work.

Thanks Greg.  Everyone has been giving me some good advice, and I 
appreciate it as a new Delorean owner.  I felt terrible after 
damaging the trim edge, and come to find out that replacement gray 
rear trim panels are not available anymore (per Rob at PJ Grady's - 
he can paint black ones gray if needed).  I think I can hide most of 
the ripped edges with the weather strip, except for a 3 in. section 
right along the passenger armrest.  However, if I sneak a little bit 
of black silicone sealant in there to blend it into the door weather 
strip, I'll be good to go, although I hate mickey-mousing things 
like that.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I used a blade to cut on the very edge of the lip and with a little
> heat (hairdryer), was able to pull the trim piece away without 
further
> damage.  After installing my speakers, but before sealing 
everything
> up with glue, etc...  I pushed it all back into place and put the
> weatherstrip over it for a test drive, etc...   This was over 6 
months
> ago.  I haven't done anything else to secure it since, as it all
> stayed in place nicely.  If the weatherstrip will cover your 
damage...
>  you may just want to give it a try.
> 
> --Greg
> #2894

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 07:56:58 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Restorable or Parts Car?

 
 
John,
 
>From your description you are definitely talking about a restoration.  IMHO 
It's not even close to being considered a parts car.
 
Things like tires, cracked dash / binnacle, struts, interior filth, sagging  
headlines etc. are typical problems with cars that have been in the sun and  
neglected.
 
Get a good deal and go for it!
 
Dē & 6530


 
 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 11:50:55 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

I recommend posting the photos in order for us to make a more informed 
opinion.

Off the top of my head, I say "Project Car". Mine was just as bad when I bought 
it. I've been driving it every day for the last 2 years now.

Rich A.
#5335

[long, duplicate quote snipped by moderator]




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 05:51:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: VB

Tom & all,
[Not knowing which post/s you are responding to I will respond as if it were one
of mine.]
Subject: Re: Free Stuff - 

I agree but if what he says is wrong, in all my analness I can't let that go. I
have to correct him. Thats what I was doing. 

To add to my prior post... 
Besides me, (as Bill R. pointed out) there are also many others who have given
out free stuff. The bulk of that being information.

Shannon Y
16506

----------
Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 07:51:32 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: VB

It is my opinion that Bob has done a great job at keeping himself low-key on this

list for quite some time.  I think it's bad form to start negative posts just 
because he posts something.  If you want to write Bob do it personally, he will 
respond.  Let's not start trashing him once again.  I haven't alway seen eye to
eye 
with Bob but I feel that he has taken steps to be more a part of this community. 
 
It's getting pretty old people.   I think Bob deserves some space to post here 
without being dumped on every time he does.  It's not fair.


		
Yahoo! Mail
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 05:52:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: FREE STUFF

You quite welcome & please keep informing the masses!
Yes I have.
Nice advertisement but, I think you overlooked my point regarding this statement,

>> "...but I have not seen one single friggin person ever come out and <<
>> offer to GIVE anything away - EVER." <<

This isn't a contest on who gives away more free stuff. I was just refuting the
comment that no one gives anything away for free 'ever'. And now that comment is
also proven wrong by your own admission of giving away stuff for free. Do you see
the contradiction here?

Shannon Y
16506

--------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 13:22:29 -0500
   From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: FREE STUFF --- Was: DeLorean Sports Car DVD on Ebay

Thanks for the flyers... yes I passed out a lot of them.

And, I give away a ton of videos on my website.
But I can only do so much.
I can't stream 1 hour episodes of stuff, just can't do it.
Anything that is printable or downloadable I give away.

Have you seen my http://www.bttfstuff.com website?
I give away every single Back To The Future prop that can be downloaded.
This is the same stuff that everyone sells on eBay.
Where do you think they got it?
They got it from MY free website!!!!

I also give detailed instructions as to how to build the metal fabricated 
props.
Even though I do sell these props, I will teach how to do them yourself and 
where
to get the props.
If your a BTTF fan you need to check it out.

I anticipate having my car totally converted to a time machine for the next 
show,
and I hope to take the trophy home this time!

- Videobob


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 13:10:57 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: VB Radio Harness.

VB and others,

I think one of the things that sets people off about VB
(including me) is when he uses terms like "I have been
using on of these for years" when most of us know VB has
owned a DeLorean for less than two years.  My problem
with a statement like this is that I feel the statement
is made to gain more credibility for his products when
this clearly cannot be the case, unless VB has figured
out how to make his DeLorean travel through time.

This may be a small issue to some folks, but with other DML
posts in the recent past involving "truth in advertising"
and "deceptive pronotion of products", I feel the line has
been crossed, whether it was intentional or not.

Yes, I do not see eye to eye with VB on a few other things,
but I have no problem with VB selling DeLorean/BTTF related
items as long as they are not misrepresented to members of
the DeLorean community.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> I will have to disagree with you Marc.
> I don't think you have ever seen one of my harness' in person have 
you?
> I also don't think you understand the concept of what it is for, and 
how it 
> is used.
> I have been using one for years, and have sold almost 100 of these, 
all to 
> happy
> customers who are using them safely without one single complaint or 
instance
> of failure! Why complicate things Marc?
> It's just a wire harness and plug that matches the factory plug!
> 
> snip <
> 
> - Videobob







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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 09:59:44 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Floating Ground Adapter: (was: VB)


On May 4, 2005, at 10:24 PM, Marc Levy wrote:

>
> It is funny, because I have posted dozens of times
> that VB's radio harness *WILL* damage modern
> high-power radios.  Yet, this time around I got a
> private message asking me for more details.
>

There exist inexpensive adapters to convert floating ground to common  
ground, which permit the use of the kind of harness that VB sells  
(albeit not with optimum sound quality).  Here's one:

http://autosoundgear.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=jnpprmm0

So, for a mere $26.99 Marc and VB can be friends and we can have  
peace on the list.


--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 09:45:19 EDT
From: Delorean3_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Johnny Carson D

     
 
Final priice was $41,000
 
boB  Cutrupi




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 10:04:21 -0400
From: "Carl Davis" <carldavis_at_dml_familykia.com>
Subject: SHOCKS AND LOWERING DELOREANS

Hello, I have two questions I hope someone has had experience with.  The first is does anyone know which springs and shocks set up is a better quality( ride of vehicle, height vehicle will sit,etc), the two I have seen or the Eibach spring setup from DMCH and the PJ GRady setup.  The second question is does anyone sell upgraded bushings throughout the Delorean( prefer to upgrade from rubber bushings to a type of Polyurethane bushings).  Appreciate and advise and reccomendations someone might have.  Thanks.   Carl

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 13:56:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

The way a car becomes a "parts car" is when the costs to make it a
working car again exceed the value it would have when finished. This
is essentially the same calculation an insurance company does to
determine if a car should be "totaled". If the cost to repair or
restore is within 10% of the value of the car when finished they will
generally total a car figuring there are things they will miss and
underestimate the costs involved. From your description it sounds
close, especially if you do not do most of the work yourself. The
major determining factor is going to be the aquisition cost and if you
can get a "clean" title. If the title is a salvage title this may
already be a parts car. Depends on the State. You also have to "look
ahead" and try to see how it will turn out. If, when you are all done,
 it still looks ugly, it may not be worth it. Better to pay more and
wind up with a nicer car. Bringing the car "back from the dead" will
require a lot of time besides the money. If you do it yourself it will
also take up space for a while. This could take months. If you are not
handy and familiar with Deloreans you should pass on this one and
maybe someone else could do it. There is nothing worse than getting
half-way through a project like this and then deciding you bit off
more than you could chew. You will lose a lot of money and time if you
make that mistake. We don't need another parts car but this one may be
beyond your abilities. I just finished a "parts car" that was sitting
for 10 years. It wasn't painted but it needed everything else. If and
when I sell it I won't be making a fortune if I add in my labor but I
did have a lot of fun!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I recommend posting the photos in order for us to make a more informed 
> opinion.
> 
> Off the top of my head, I say "Project Car". Mine was just as bad
when I bought 
> it. I've been driving it every day for the last 2 years now.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
> 
> [long, duplicate quote snipped by moderator]






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