From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2610
Date: Saturday, May 07, 2005 12:25 PM

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DeLorean Needed for Chicago Wedding
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

2. Re: Clutch repair
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

3. Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. Re: Time Traveler Convention in New York Times
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

5. Re: Re: What battery is recommended?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

6. Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Clutch repair
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

9. Car Fax account
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Clutch repair
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

14. Delorean sighting in 80s movie
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: Time Traveler Convention in New York Times
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>

16. Re: Clutch repair
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Fuel smell
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

18. Manual trans seal
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

19. re: Manual Trans Seal
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Re: DeLorean Needed for Chicago Wedding
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: Lacy <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Fuel smell
From: "bravoracer" <kingme8_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 20:04:29 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: DeLorean Needed for Chicago Wedding

Is it just me who would be nervous loaning a car to someone
with an email address of crazy_animal20?

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>: -------------- 


> I know that a lot or you cringe at the though of letting someone else drive 
> your car, but I've been contacted regarding the possibility of using a 
> DeLorean at a wedding in the Chicago area this August. 
> 
> The couple's desire is to have the groom make a Grand Entrance, by arriving 
> in a DeLorean. And, as we all know, no wedding (or marriage) is truly 
> complete without at least one DeLorean :) 
> 
> So if you're interested in helping to make this couple's wedding even more 
> memorable, please contact them directly. 
> 
> Contact Christine Simich 
> crazy_animal20(at)yahoo.com 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 13:31:32 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch repair

Hey Robert,

It's not all that involved, really. First clutch I ever replaced in my
life was on my DeLorean, last year. From what I understand it's
completely straightforward as far as clutch jobs go. Bill will
probably chime in here and tell you all about being careful with the
splines, but other than that... I think it's pretty normal.

Just make sure you have a proper transmission jack, and if you can use
a lift somewhere I highly recommend it. Most of the time I wasted was
fighting with (1) the car on four jack stands instead of a lift, and
(2) no transmission jack. I got it out OK with a floor jack but it
would NOT go back in that way. Bought a transmission jack and bribed a
friend for help, and it bolted right back up.

-Ryan

On 5/6/05, robert parker <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
>   Well, my clutch suddenly began screeching at me last weekend (dratted
> throw-out bearing). Time for clutch work.  My last foray into this
> experience was nearly 30 yrs ago on a '52 Chevy.  Messy, but not that
> difficult.    Problem:  the Shop Manual is NO help in R&R, and I didn't
> fiind any info in the archives.  Are there "Follow these steps" out there to
> be obtained?  I don't particularly want to just start removing parts that I
> "think" might need to be.  The Chevy was quite straight forward. I think
> this endeavor may be a bit more involved.     Assistance is always
> appreciated.         Drive Stainless   (when able)      Robert   VIN 6924
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 13:34:33 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?

Hey, don't forget DPNW:

http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen==PROD&Store_Code==DPNW&Product_Code=0592P&Category_Code=
-Ryan

On 5/6/05, Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
> Warren,
> 
>   Best looking?  They're door struts.  How good looking do they need
> to be?  Also, how are they easier to buy than from any of the other
> vendors?  Because you provided the links in your e-mail?  If so, then
> here's the easiest way to buy from the other vendors:
> 
> PJ Grady- http://pjgrady.com/additem.asp?id=146&q==1
> 
> Hervy- http://www.specialtauto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=šSK&Store_Code==sta&Action=­PR&Product_Code=0592-1&Attributes==Yes&Quantity==1
> 
> DMC, CA- http://deloreanmotorcenter.com/_100592s.html
> 
> The logic to that message makes no sense to me.
> 
> -Aaron Crocco
> VIN 5591
> NY Plate: OUTATYM
> 
> ****Original Message****
> 
> I can't pass this up.  No matter whose struts you think are best, ours
> are the best looking and are the easiest to buy.  See for yourself.
> 
> Warren Wallingford
> DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
> 15023 Eddie Drive
> Humble, Texas 77396 USA
> 
> http://www.delorean.com
> 800/USA-DMC1
> 281/441-2537
> 281/441-2813 Fax




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 17:26:05 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Time Traveler Convention in New York Times

Any way to view it without logging in?

Mark V


On May 6, 2005, at 1:58 AM, rickh5371 wrote:

> We were featured on page one of the New York Times!
>
> http://nytimes.com/2005/05/06/national/06time.html
>
> The part about the DeLorean is actually a little iffy; the DeLorean
> owner who has offered to come by doesn't know if he'll be able to make
> it for sure.
>
> Do any other Boston-area DeLorean owners wish to attend, who can
> confirm attendance? We would love to have you!
>
> Thanks!
> -timetravel organizers




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 17:30:54 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What battery is recommended?

 From what i remembered Motorcraft batteries were really good, i dont 
know how good they are now.

Mark V


On May 6, 2005, at 8:25 AM, Marc Levy wrote:

> Be careful with brand names like Diehard.
>
> They don't make batteries, they just buy them from
> someone else and have their name slapped on it.
>
> Who they buy the item from can change at any given
> time.  10 years ago, DieHard was a re-branded Delco.
> They were GREAT.  In the late 90's they changed
> vendors and the batteries were awful (I started to buy
> Delco brand at that point).
>
> I don't know who makes the DieHard batteries now, nor
> do we know which one was tested by the website you
> talk about below.
>
> FWIW, I just replaced the battery in 1860 with a
> "Nascar" battery from Sam's Club...  The top of the
> line battery (which is what I got) is a rebranded
> Optima.
>
> Meanwhile, my 1995 Ford still has the battery it left
> the dealership with 10 years ago.  When it goes, I
> will likely replace it with a Delco.
>
> --- Matt Spittle <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu> wrote:
>> I myself prefer the Sears Diehard.  Not too long
>> ago, I remember
>> reading a website that compared a whole bunch of
>> different style
>> (starting) batteries and weighed their strengths and
>> weaknesses.  The
>> thing that differentiated the Diehard was that it
>> could withstand more
>> deep cycles than any other battery (even Optima
>> red-top).  I think the
>> actual number of cycles was 9 or 10.
>>
>> Matt
>> #1604




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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 22:34:23 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak

I had this problem and it was leaking out of the gasket around the 
fuel sending unit.  It was be noticeable right after filling then 
again if I parked on a hill and had too much gas.  It drained back 
past the plate and out the passenger side on mine.
D. Funk
#4984

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> I just filled my car for the second time last night.  As it was 
> topping off, a couple of people walking by noticed gasoline 
dripping 
> from underneath, near the passenger side (I think near the corner 
of 
> the triangular plate).
> 
> Looks like maybe a cup or so of gas dripped on the concrete, then 
> stopped.  I took the car on a 20 minute ride, no more drips and 
the 
> tank stayed full per the gauge.
> 
> I haven't looked into it yet, and plan to do so this weekend.  I 
> always smell gas when parked in the garage, so I know something is 
> allowing fumes to escape all the time, and hope it is obvious when 
I 
> take a look at it.  but if it isn't obvious, anyone have a similar 
> experience?  Could it be something like a leak in filler tube/pipe 
> between the tank and gas fill opening?
> 
> I suspect parts are original for the fuel tank equipment. Perhaps 
I am 
> in need of some sort of fuel system replacement kit. 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul






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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 23:12:12 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch repair

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
>   Well, my clutch suddenly began screeching at me last weekend (dratted 
> throw-out bearing). Time for clutch work.  My last foray into this 
> experience was nearly 30 yrs ago on a '52 Chevy.  Messy, but not that 
> difficult.    Problem:  the Shop Manual is NO help in R&R, and I didn't 
> fiind any info in the archives.  Are there "Follow these steps" out there to 
> be obtained?  I don't particularly want to just start removing parts that I 
> "think" might need to be.  The Chevy was quite straight forward. I think 
> this endeavor may be a bit more involved.     Assistance is always 
> appreciated.         Drive Stainless   (when able)      Robert   VIN 6924
> 
> Hey Robert I just did mine last weekend though something is still making a 
rubbing noise which goes away after like five minutes of the car running.. 
makes no sense.. anyway I got pretty good at it since i had to take it out twice 
and recheck everything.. The book does suck though it is about right.. the only 
thing I did to make it easier is to take off the splash shields and the trans 
mounts in the rear after u have the tranny supported.. u dont need to unhook 
the emergency brake cable or take out the coolant pipes.. just remove the 
splash sheilds to move the cable out of the way.. other than that its pretty 
straightforward and u should be a ble to have it unbolted and out in about an 
hour.. Dave.. vin 15275.. if u need any more help write me or call me at 816-
221-9756..




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 19:47:27 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?

I had a set of door pistons from DeLorean One from 1996 that lasted for 5 
years. D1 was very nice about my order too. I noticed that the shaft on the D1 
was black and some other vendors were brass or chrome. I kept the original 
pistons for the car just in case.

I had a set of PJ Grady boot & bonnet pistons that lasted for over 5 years 
and never let me down.

Mike


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 20:21:56 EDT
From: abatt10347_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Car Fax account

Fellow DMLer's,
I am looking for any one who has an active Carfax account. If you have one  
please contact me via _ABatt10347_at_dml_aol.com_ (mailto:ABatt10347_at_dml_aol.com) .
Thanks,
Bruce
Vin #06569
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 17:58:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Who has the best door struts?

I use P.J. Grady's struts.  I prefer Rob's as they
slow down at the top of the stroke eliminating the
heavy bounce effect.  Other's I have tried give far
too much bounce at the top and I felt that I may be
damaging something. Others I have used felt way to
strong when closing the door.  Fear of bending the
pins caused me to take them off and stick with Rob's.




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 01:02:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch repair

You really don't have to look very hard. Go over to dmcnews.com 
Click on technical and look at all the stuff on transmission. The hard
part is the covers. Very easy if you jack up the motor (well easier
anyway). When reinstalling you MUST use the tool (a piece of an input
shaft) to line up the friction plate and you must go in VERY STRAIGHT
when reinstaling the transmisssion. Don't get tempted in your
frustration to force anything togther. Stop, take a deep breath, take
it apart and try again. It helps to have the trans in gear and turn
the output flanges to get the spines on the input shaft to line up as
you attempt to slide the trans back in. Also much easier to put the
gear oil in the trans BEFORE you reinstall if you are changing the
gear oil. Not a bad idea to flush the clutch fluid too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_h...>
wrote:
>   Well, my clutch suddenly began screeching at me last weekend (dratted 
> throw-out bearing). Time for clutch work.  My last foray into this 
> experience was nearly 30 yrs ago on a '52 Chevy.  Messy, but not that 
> difficult.    Problem:  the Shop Manual is NO help in R&R, and I didn't 
> fiind any info in the archives.  Are there "Follow these steps" out
there to 







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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 18:38:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?

I think this is why at one point the DML did not allow
commercial posting.


--- Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
<Lots of links for door struts snipped>



		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail Mobile 
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail 




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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 02:01:32 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Who has the best door struts?

Actually I don't believe that it's ever been prohibited, although I'm 
certainly wondering if we ought to start charging for ad 
placement . . . . . 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I think this is why at one point the DML did not allow
> commercial posting.
> 
> 
> --- Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> <Lots of links for door struts snipped>







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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 02:04:36 -0000
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Delorean sighting in 80s movie

If you like seeing the DeLorean in movies..  on the "Manhattan 
Project" (have not watched in years) in the opening credits they have 
a DMC parked in a driveway.  Just FYI if you own or rent...

CG






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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 22:23:38 -0400
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Time Traveler Convention in New York Times

Go to http://bugmenot.com/ and submit:  http://nytimes.com/ for a login.

-Hank


> Any way to view it without logging in?
> Mark V
> On May 6, 2005, at 1:58 AM, rickh5371 wrote:
> > We were featured on page one of the New York Times!
> > http://nytimes.com/2005/05/06/national/06time.html




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 03:15:04 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch repair

Read me like a book...

A proper transmission jack is almost a necessity. I also recommend
jacking up the car level rather than rear end high. With everything at
an angle, and the transmission teetering on a floor jack, I never
could get the bellhousing flush with the block by muscle power alone.
Came close enough to insert some bolts to pull them together, but no
matter how hard I tried to turn them in equal micro increments, the
splines on the input shaft bound inside the clutch disc. Twice. Crazy
thing is: you absolutely can not feel that while it's happening. Feels
like the transmission is re-mating smooth as silk. But it isn't.

Some other things to be aware of:
- Of course there's no crossmember to rest the transmission on while
you work on the clutch (hence the necessity of a proper jack or
dropping it to the ground)
- Two roll pins (changed to solid studs on later Volvo's) actually
hold the transmission in alignment, not the mounting bolts. Make sure
they are in place and in good condition
- I could not move the shift cable far enough to slip it endwise
through the triangular bracket with the transmission reinstalled
(Workshop Manual suggests doing this with the transmission hanging at
an angle -- impossible while wrestling with a floor jack). I tried
slipping it through the bracket loose, then reinstalling the bracket,
but ran headlong into the 8mm Bolt From Hell. See Message #48803 for a
mod that allows you to leave the bracket in place and slip the cable
through sideways after the transmission is reinstalled.
- Unlike American units, the bellhousing doubles as the front of the
transmission. Be careful pulling it off unless you want a gallon of
gear oil all over the place. Removing it does make oil change
extremely simple.
- Removing and reinstalling the transmission is a lot easier when the
exhaust crossover pipe isn't in the way. If at all possible, remove it
(and replace carbon fasteners with stainless for easier future
removal). While it's out, notice how easily everything in the Valley
Of Death is accessed from under the car -- *THAT'S* why you want to be
able to remove it in the future.
- Don't forget to change not only the rear main oil seal, but the
paper gasket that seals its holding plate to the block as well.
- Flywheel mounting bolts are NOT equally spaced. Mark its position to
avoid having to spin it and test fit them later.
- There is not enough room to put a socket wrench on the crankshaft
pully with the muffler in place -- one of the reasons I converted to
dual exhaust.

See also Message #51606 for cautions Re: the clutch fork. Has to
remain fairly still until the throw out bearing contacts the clutch disc.

All in all, I do prefer American transmissions simply because they are
easier to take out and put back in. Larger components are also less
susceptible to damage (I think the clutch disc splines can bind
without feeling because the disc is so small and thin that it flexes
as they do so). Best way I've found to replace a DeLo transmission is
to let a humongous railroad employee pick it up and physically place
it on the back of the engine while it's sitting on blocks out of the
car (gives you an idea of the problems I encountered re-mating them --
couldn't even do it out of the vehicle).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Hey Robert,
> 
> It's not all that involved, really. First clutch I ever replaced in my
> life was on my DeLorean, last year. From what I understand it's
> completely straightforward as far as clutch jobs go. Bill will
> probably chime in here and tell you all about being careful with the
> splines, but other than that... I think it's pretty normal.
> 
> Just make sure you have a proper transmission jack, and if you can use
> a lift somewhere I highly recommend it. Most of the time I wasted was
> fighting with (1) the car on four jack stands instead of a lift, and
> (2) no transmission jack. I got it out OK with a floor jack but it
> would NOT go back in that way. Bought a transmission jack and bribed a
> friend for help, and it bolted right back up.
> 
> -Ryan
> 







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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 23:18:08 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Fuel smell

When i fill my tank with out spilling a drop of gas i usually smell gas 
till the tank gets lower on fuel. I dont see any leaks.

Is this normal?

I did some research and it seems normal but i was wondering if it 
really is normal?

Mark V





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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 04:14:31 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Manual trans seal

Is it possible to replace lip seal #103049 (4-1-1 #52) on the manual
transmission without removal/disassembly? -----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 13:36:10 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: re: Manual Trans Seal

Yes

You can take that back cover #54 off the trans in the car and replace 
it like that. Drain the trans. Remove the shift linkage and then the 
transmission mounts so that the trans can be lowered. The engine will 
hit the back wall (or the exhaust will hit the facia) and stop, no 
need to support anything. Once that cover is off the car you'll have 
to knock out a couple of roll pins (4/1/4 #5) to get the shaft out. 

I've never seen that seal fail or leak - it's far above the static 
oil level of the trans. Also replace gasket #57.

BTW - from this point to removal of the transmission from the car, is 
removal of the axles, the clutch line, and 4 bellhousing bolts/3 
starter bolts. And some muscle power or a good trans jack.

Dave
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "stainlessilusion" 
Subject: Manual trans seal


Is it possible to replace lip seal #103049 (4-1-1 #52) on the manual
transmission without removal/disassembly? -----Dani B. #5003









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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 15:31:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Needed for Chicago Wedding

Be aware that in most cases if you use the car for commercial purposes
your insurance will not cover the car. Generally if you rent it out to
a company for photos and the like they can provide you proof of
coverage. You can also call your insurance company and pay for an
endorsement to cover the car for the event. Lending the car is a very
grey area and you may want to inquire with your carrier as to how the
car would be covered in such a case. Maybe if YOU drive the car (or at
least ride in it) everything would be OK.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, mike.griese_at_dml_w... wrote:
> Is it just me who would be nervous loaning a car to someone
> with an email address of crazy_animal20?
> 
>d]






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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 08:57:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lacy <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?

Hi I just bought a 6 set of Gradys, and they wont lift door all the way up and you have to help them up. One lifts higher that the other even when switched. I take it that the standard answer from the venders I called is that the tortion bars need adj. . but trading struts with another D owner my doors work fine . All the way up without excessive bounce.I also have alot of side to side  and back in forth play when piston is in open position, my old stocks struts did not have this play.Do you think I should send back for refund and try another set? Thanks for your help, lacy

Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> I use P.J. Grady's struts. I prefer Rob's as they
> slow down at the top of the stroke eliminating the
> heavy bounce effect. Other's I have tried give far
> too much bounce at the top and I felt that I may be
> damaging something. Others I have used felt way to
> strong when closing the door. Fear of bending the
> pins caused me to take them off and stick with Rob's.




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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 16:37:56 -0000
From: "bravoracer" <kingme8_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel smell

Mine does that too when I fill it up all the way, thats why I usually just fill it up to 3/4 and I 
don't smell it. I'm not sure if its normal. 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> When i fill my tank with out spilling a drop of gas i usually smell gas 
> till the tank gets lower on fuel. I dont see any leaks.
> 
> Is this normal?
> 
> I did some research and it seems normal but i was wondering if it 
> really is normal?
> 
> Mark V






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