From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2611
Date: Sunday, May 08, 2005 3:36 PM

There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: What battery is recommended?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

2. Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

4. Re: Fuel smell
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Fuel smell
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Fuel smell
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Fuel smell
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

8. Silver Door Struts
From: "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. RE: Convex mirrors - update
From: "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: VIN: 2953 Doors
From: "conundrum1984" <vin02953_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Door Strut Posts
From: "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 17:54:18 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: What battery is recommended?

FWIW, I had to pick up another battery from Pep-Boys. I took in the 
old Die-Hard Battery from the DeLorean, and discovered that it was 
the EXACT same as the BOSCH battery that they had for sale. Same 
case, same connecors, even had the same CCA & CC ratings on the 
label. And both were made in Mexico.

Me personally, I've been left with a dead battery in the past, and 
I've even had to run off of battery power a few times, until I 
discovered that rogue wire in my relay compartment that was blowing 
the fuse for my alternator. Contrary to factory literature with the 
original Delco Freedom battery, my car WILL NOT go 50 miles on 
battery power alone. 5 miles, and the engine begins to be sluggish. 
So I won't drive with anything but an Optima battery from now on. 
They may cost like $30 more than a regular car battery, but the 
Optima has almost 200 more Cold Cranking Amps than the Die Hard, 
doesn't leak acid, AND weighs ALOT less. Sure you're not drag racing, 
but with only 130hp, you need all the weight reduction you can get.

Don't get me wrong now. The Die Hard had a prety good run, with 
almost 5 years with me. Which isn't bad for the desert. But is 
questionable since is wasn't in a hot engine compartment (in the end, 
3 deep cycles finally killed my battery). But since I can't navagate 
their website independantly, then I guess they just don't want my 
business...

As for the "deep cycle" test, I wouldn't go by that. You're putting 
equipment thru tests that it's not meant to go thru, so it's not 
designed for the challenge. That's like saying the DeLorean isn't a 
good choice for an automobile, because you can't cross the Rubicon 
Trail in one. Same with a battery. If the Optima red-top can't 
survive repeated deep cycles, that's because it's not designed to do 
that. It's the yellow top one that's meant for those kinds of 
applications/tests.

One thing that Optima does promise is that disconnected, their Red-
Top batteries will maintain a full 100% charge for up to a year.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Be careful with brand names like Diehard. 
> 
> They don't make batteries, they just buy them from
> someone else and have their name slapped on it.
> 
> Who they buy the item from can change at any given
> time.  10 years ago, DieHard was a re-branded Delco. 
> They were GREAT.  In the late 90's they changed
> vendors and the batteries were awful (I started to buy
> Delco brand at that point).  
> 
> I don't know who makes the DieHard batteries now, nor
> do we know which one was tested by the website you
> talk about below.
> 
> FWIW, I just replaced the battery in 1860 with a
> "Nascar" battery from Sam's Club...  The top of the
> line battery (which is what I got) is a rebranded
> Optima.
> 
> Meanwhile, my 1995 Ford still has the battery it left
> the dealership with 10 years ago.  When it goes, I
> will likely replace it with a Delco.
> 
> --- Matt Spittle <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > I myself prefer the Sears Diehard.  Not too long
> > ago, I remember
> > reading a website that compared a whole bunch of
> > different style
> > (starting) batteries and weighed their strengths and
> > weaknesses.  The
> > thing that differentiated the Diehard was that it
> > could withstand more
> > deep cycles than any other battery (even Optima
> > red-top).  I think the
> > actual number of cycles was 9 or 10.  
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604
> >






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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 18:58:52 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?

I noticed Grady's struts do that on my car. When we had our struts made, 
they're set to the same pressure as Houstons (as per oriignal design 
specs) but are the same length as Grady's (5mm shorter than Houstons 
IIRC) and have a quite stiff braking action at the top of the travel. We 
are lucky to have a supplier who manufacture in small quantities. Our 
exchange rate makes costs prohibitive to the states though.

Best Wishes

Martin
DMUK

Lacy wrote:

>Hi I just bought a 6 set of Gradys, and they wont lift door all the way up and you have to help them up. One lifts higher that the other even when switched. I take it that the standard answer from the venders I called is that the tortion bars need adj. . but trading struts with another D owner my doors work fine . All the way up without excessive bounce.I also have alot of side to side  and back in forth play when piston is in open position, my old stocks struts did not have this play.Do you think I should send back for refund and try another set? Thanks for your help, lacy
>





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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 13:05:20 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?

Always contact the vendor first with any problems with their product.

Mark V



On May 7, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Lacy wrote:

> Hi I just bought a 6 set of Gradys, and they wont lift door all the 
> way up and you have to help them up. One lifts higher that the other 
> even when switched. I take it that the standard answer from the 
> venders I called is that the tortion bars need adj. . but trading 
> struts with another D owner my doors work fine . All the way up 
> without excessive bounce.I also have alot of side to side  and back in 
> forth play when piston is in open position, my old stocks struts did 
> not have this play.Do you think I should send back for refund and try 
> another set? Thanks for your help, lacy





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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 11:55:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel smell

Mark, I don't believe that the fuel smell is normal. Remove the rubber boot that covers the fuel pump. If there is gasoline on top of the fuel pump, the likely cause is the return fuel line connection  leaking. Disconnect the battery, remove the fuel from the top of the pump and tighten the line connection. While I am told that gasoline on top of the fuel pump is not that unusual, it should not be there if all hoses and connections are tight. Fixing the return fuel line connection stopped the gasoline smell in my car. Rod 10921 

DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com> wrote:
> When i fill my tank with out spilling a drop of gas i
> usually smell gas till the tank gets lower on fuel. I
> dont see any leaks.
> 
> Is this normal?
> 
> I did some research and it seems normal but i was
> wondering if it really is normal?
> 
> Mark V




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 20:35:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel smell

It seems to be fairly common but it is fixable. It is caused by either
the boot around the fuel pump or the gasket at the tank sender unit.
Also make sure all the hose clamps on the fill and vent are properly
positioned and tight. It is also possible you have the wrong gas cap.
If it was ever lost it might have been replaced with one that doesn't
seal correctly. Another possible source is a plugged up hose in the
vapor recovery system. On several cars I have noticed the vent hose
from the cannister gets plugged up by insects. It is like cement. I am
referring to the hose that comes out the bottom of the left pontoon
and attaches to the bottom of the vapor cannister. You can also change
the filter on it by removing the plastic cover on the bottom.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bravoracer" <kingme8_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Mine does that too when I fill it up all the way, thats why I
usually just fill it up to 3/4 and I 
> don't smell it. I'm not sure if its normal. 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > When i fill my tank with out spilling a drop of gas i usually
smell gas 
> > till the tank gets lower on fuel. I dont see any leaks.
> > 
> > Is this normal?
> > 
> > I did some research and it seems normal but i was wondering if it 
> > really is normal?
> > 
> > Mark V






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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 18:04:33 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel smell

In a message dated 5/7/05 10:33:07 AM Central Daylight Time, 
dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com writes:


> When i fill my tank with out spilling a drop of gas i usually smell gas 
> till the tank gets lower on fuel. I dont see any leaks.
> 
> Is this normal?
> 

Mark,

For what it's worth, I always fill mine to the top and NEVER have any fuel 
smells - and my car always sits in a garage, so I would surely smell it if there 
were any.

Places to check - 
1. gasket around fuel 'chute' where it goes into the gas tank
2. Make sure fuel pump cover boot is undamaged and is nice and tight.  
3. Check all evap emissions control hoses and parts
4. Replace fuel cap if it is original.  Mine was and the rubber gasket in it 
was dried and cracked.  new ones are inexpensive from the vendors.
5. Before you get gas next time, remove the access covers in the trunk and 
watch the pump boot, fuel chute, and sending unit for gas splashing out or 
leaking.

Good Luck!
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 20:45:34 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel smell

Thanks everyone who posted on this subject.

It looks like i will fill the tank up and check it again.

Mark V


On May 7, 2005, at 5:04 PM, Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/7/05 10:33:07 AM Central Daylight Time,
> dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com writes:
>
>
>> When i fill my tank with out spilling a drop of gas i usually smell 
>> gas
>> till the tank gets lower on fuel. I dont see any leaks.
>>
>> Is this normal?
>>
>
> Mark,
>
> For what it's worth, I always fill mine to the top and NEVER have any 
> fuel
> smells - and my car always sits in a garage, so I would surely smell 
> it if there
> were any.
>
> Places to check -
> 1. gasket around fuel 'chute' where it goes into the gas tank
> 2. Make sure fuel pump cover boot is undamaged and is nice and tight.
> 3. Check all evap emissions control hoses and parts
> 4. Replace fuel cap if it is original.  Mine was and the rubber gasket 
> in it
> was dried and cracked.  new ones are inexpensive from the vendors.
> 5. Before you get gas next time, remove the access covers in the trunk 
> and
> watch the pump boot, fuel chute, and sending unit for gas splashing 
> out or
> leaking.
>
> Good Luck!
> Andy




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 14:55:51 -0000
From: "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Silver Door Struts

All.

Over time the door strut question keeps coming up. 

All of the vendors offer variations which offer the same basic 
functionality, I am still surprised that a silver coloured variation 
has not been offered.....

The effect looks good on my silver Golf, I have temporarily added a 
photo to the 'Photos' section to demonstrate.


John Chapelhow
'Boeing' : VIN 0737 : UK






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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 15:17:02 -0000
From: "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Convex mirrors - update

All.

Sometime ago I posted a request for help finding a supplier who could 
make wide-angle (convex) door mirrors. I had tried all of the UK 
suppliers without success.

I would like to publicly thank Joe Kuchan and Dave Swingle who both 
made very kind offers of help.

At the time of my original post I stated that I had no interest in 
becoming a `supplier'. Since then Tom Niemczewski from Poland has 
found somewhere that can manufacture the glass, and can even offer 
heated pads, I am happy to support him.

I have just returned from a holiday in Florida (with day-trip to 
DMCH, thanks again for the tour James) driving over there I am still 
amazed that they are not standard on all cars. Several people have 
suggested that this may be a legal problem, if anyone can confirm or 
dispute that it might be useful for Tom to know sooner rather than 
later…

Joe/Dave thanks again.

John Chapelhow
'Boeing' : VIN 0737 : UK

##Toms previous post was on Sun, 1 May 2005







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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 15:22:01 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <vin02953_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: VIN: 2953 Doors

How is the torsion bar adjusted?  I'm only going to do it when it is 
warm outside (75+).  If possible, I'm only going to adjust it a 
little at a time so I don't over-do it.  Is it hard to do?  And could 
I do it alone?  I'm new to all this.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Just to make sure you didn't get a bad strut, did you swap out with 
the
> other one to confirm it isn't bad before you adjust.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On 
Behalf
> Of rodney rael
> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2005 9:15 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] VIN: 2953 Doors
> 
> Conundrum:
> 
> I had same problem.   It is your torsion bars, and it was discussed 
at
> length like one month ago.   Go to Google.com and do an advanced
> search picking only DMC news and put torsion bar.
> 
> Good luck!..
> 
> Rodney
> 3300
> 
> On 4/18/05, conundrum1984 <vin02953_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I just placed new gas strust on my doors that I purchased from DMC
> > Houston.  They work fine and hold up "ok" when I push the door 
all the
> > way up.  The driver's door goes most of the way up then I got to 
push
> > it a little to go the rest of the way.






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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 15:41:29 -0000
From: "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Door Strut Posts

It has become apparent that there is a significant difference between 
the door struts that the vendors offer. It seems to me that no one 
seems to have a clear preference on the trunk or engine cover 
struts.  I find it surprising that there is such a vast difference on 
the door struts but the others are seemingly similar.

That being said, it seems like PJ Grady's offering seems to have a 
significantly higher amount of reports of the same symptoms that I 
have experienced.  Specifically, they do not seem to open the doors 
all of the way.  

Since new, mine were weak and needed to be assisted but now they 
won't even go up half way.  I recognize that three years is a 
lifetime and even though I probably opened them less than 75 times on 
the driver side and 20 times on the passenger side they have reached 
their intended life span.

Given the confirmation of my findings it would appear that PJ Grady's 
version would be best suited for someone with a tweaked torsion bar 
or someone who wants the ultimate security of not damaging the door.  
In my case, I now understand that there are differences and that it 
might make sense to try a different vendor.

PJ Grady offers wonderful parts, service and advice to the community 
and this situation with the door struts is certainly no reflection on 
his organization.  It might be a good idea for him to look into his 
offering and see if he could either change the spec or find a better 
vendor.

Thanks to all that posted as it really did help me decide and also 
confirm my thoughts on my struts.

Scot
6452







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