From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2612
Date: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:29 AM

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Door Strut Posts
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

2. AW: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

3. The Door Strut Experiment
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

4. Money to spend.
From: "barry donnachie" <barrydonnachie_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

5. Re: Idle problem
From: "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>

6. Re: Money to spend.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Re: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

8. Re: Convex mirrors - update
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Cam Wear cause
From: <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: Door Strut Posts
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

11. Re: Money to spend.
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. RE: The Door Strut Experiment
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

14. Re: The Door Strut Experiment
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Cam Wear cause
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

16. Re: Fuel smell
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

17. Re: Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. AW: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

19. First time advertised for sale.
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

20. Re: Cam Wear cause
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Cam Wear cause
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

22. Re: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 18:59:04 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Door Strut Posts

I bought my struts (full set) from DeLorean One about 10
years ago and they are still going strong.  As I recall, they
are marked Stabilus. 

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_aol.com>: -------------- 


> It has become apparent that there is a significant difference between 
> the door struts that the vendors offer. It seems to me that no one 
> seems to have a clear preference on the trunk or engine cover 
> struts. I find it surprising that there is such a vast difference on 
> the door struts but the others are seemingly similar. 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 20:13:34 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)

What plugs are you talking about ?
3 wires go to the idle motor:
+12V continuously
switched ground left
switched ground right

the "grounds" are always switched, there are never both active at once.
depending how long one is active and the other isn't - it varies the angle
of the motoraxle and therefore the opening for the air.

Elvis

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag
von stainlessilusion
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 5. Mai 2005 00:55
An: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [DML] Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)


Okay, so now I just got a NOS idle motor and when I plug it in-nothing
happens. I cleaned the grounds on both sides of the intake and checked
the voltage in the plug. I get 5.4 in plug 5, 12.4 in plug 4, and 4.?
in plug 3...why is there no ground? I know the motor switch is fine
because the solenoid will still click when you open the switch. Fuses
are all good. I took out the ECU and opened it up, there doesn't seem
to be any melted parts on the front of the board, but I can't find any
pictures to match the back of the board to. I have some browned solder
here and there where the green coating melted, but everything is still
connected. I don't have my digital camera with me today otherwise I
would have taken a picture. I tested the motor with a 12 volt battery
briefly and it seems to work. Now what? hmmm....Dani B. #5003






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 15:32:35 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: The Door Strut Experiment

Everyone,
OK, since I started this thread, I intend to finish it once and for all. Since PJ Grady has been getting most of the heat (and bad press) and since he guarantees his struts if not 100% satisfied, I am willing to bite the bullet in the name of science and I have just ordered a set from him for some $79.00 plus shipping. I will test them and evaluate them for all to see as I will post the result as well as the conditions and parameters of the testing right here on the DML. (I own an R&D company in New England and I think that makes me uniquely qualified) I also have nothing better to do as my D is completely restored and now I'm just playing. If they are in fact unsatisfactory, I'll go to the next vendor until I get a "good" set. (The evaluation may take some time but it will be worth it)  This will be of course a single random sample test but since this isn't getting government funding, I'm not going to get ten samples from each vendor for a cross-sectional average or double-blind study. (Sorry Marc, but I have a limited budget for this sort of thing and we know your admirable position on VERY accurate information! Please forgive me.) After the test, I think the vendor should have an opportunity for rebuttal and comment. If anyone else is in need of struts, they are more than welcome to participate using another vendor or perhaps the same vendor to confirm the veracity of my results. It will at least expedite the test series. (You must have brand new, unused struts, properly adjusted torsion bars, a thermometer, a tape measure, a keen eye and accurate information about your doors such as added weight, ie; door launchers, window modifications or other goodies that add to or subtract from the normal burden on the door to participate) Contact me if you are willing to help and with the name of the vendor you wish to test. I will send you a uniform test specification. Testing suggestions are welcome. Hey, it might even be fun. Stay tuned....
Rustproof
Vin 1559


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 21:44:28 -0000
From: "barry donnachie" <barrydonnachie_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Money to spend.

Hi guys. been a member of the group for a while now.
Thing is my grandmother has passed away ( god rest her soul) but has 
left me around £10,000 (about $17000 i think) so i thought about buying 
a flat. couldnt afford one.

so the next sensible idea hit me
A D.

So heres were i feel like a jerk .

Im looking for a gd 81 model with the fuel flap not needing much work.
i dont mind doing some work as im not expecting an a1 condition car but 
something that will run for me. RHD would be great but LHD is just as 
gd.

Cheers barry






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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 22:06:42 -0000
From: "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>
Subject: Re: Idle problem

I think so too. 
Is there a good way to search for the problem?
I have a B28E  in my garage and I've tested the idle motor from that engine and it didn't 
make any difference.

I feel pretty lost here so I'm very thankful for any input on this.
Anders

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_k...> wrote:
> Normality in a DeLorean ... what a concept!  Winged1 starts up and 
> idles at about 1000 rpm with some very minor hunting for about 10~15 
> seconds when cold, and then settles at 750 rpm.  When warm, she 
> starts and idles at 750 rpm steadily.  3000 rpm on a stone-cold 
> motor doesn't sound all that good to me.  It takes a bit for the oil 
> to get to the top end, so that first burst of rpm might be with the 
> journals a little starved for oil.  I would think that there is an 
> issue with the cold start system that should be resolved.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > Mine does it too, I think it is normal. -----Dani B. #5003
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> > > When I crank my car, the engine goes up to 2500 - 3000 revs for 
> 15 seconds and then settles at 800 revs and runs fine. It does this 
> every time I start it and it makes no difference if the engine is 
> cold or hot.






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 00:42:54 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Money to spend.

barry donnachie wrote:

> around £10,000 
>
>Im looking for a gd 81 model with the fuel flap not needing much work.
>i dont mind doing some work as im not expecting an a1 condition car but 
>something that will run for me. RHD would be great but LHD is just as 
>gd.
>  
>
Barry, the most recent right-hander that came up for sale sold for 
£21,500. You should be able to import from the US with that kind of 
budget but we start our pricing at £12,000 and wouldn't recommend that 
for someone who isn't capable of at least moderate engine work (as a 
general gauge of competence)

Martin
DMUK




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 23:46:52 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)

The same plug/wires you're talking about. All 3 of mine give +
voltage, so obviously it has to be that my ECU is cooked...I'm
currently working on a replacement. -----Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> What plugs are you talking about ?
> 3 wires go to the idle motor:
> +12V continuously
> switched ground left
> switched ground right
> 
> the "grounds" are always switched, there are never both active at once.
> depending how long one is active and the other isn't - it varies the
angle
> of the motoraxle and therefore the opening for the air.
> 
> Elvis
> 
> -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag
> von stainlessilusion
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 5. Mai 2005 00:55
> An: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Betreff: [DML] Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)
> 
> 
> Okay, so now I just got a NOS idle motor and when I plug it in-nothing
> happens. I cleaned the grounds on both sides of the intake and checked
> the voltage in the plug. I get 5.4 in plug 5, 12.4 in plug 4, and 4.?
> in plug 3...why is there no ground? I know the motor switch is fine
> because the solenoid will still click when you open the switch. Fuses
> are all good. I took out the ECU and opened it up, there doesn't seem
> to be any melted parts on the front of the board, but I can't find any
> pictures to match the back of the board to. I have some browned solder
> here and there where the green coating melted, but everything is still
> connected. I don't have my digital camera with me today otherwise I
> would have taken a picture. I tested the motor with a 12 volt battery
> briefly and it seems to work. Now what? hmmm....Dani B. #5003




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 02:33:15 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Convex mirrors - update

I own a BMW that was purchased in Germany (US spec car) for ultimate 
importation into the US after two years. The owner bought the Euro-
style mirrors locally and installed them while in Germany. Since the 
mirrors are still on the car, and nobody in customs blew it up or 
made him remove them on the way in, my assumption is that you won't 
get in any trouble for it here. You just can't buy them here because 
they would not be legal for the manufacturers to install (I'm sure 
there's some FMVSS code on this). 

Once you own the car you can do quite a bit to it without running 
afoul of the authorities. Even more on a 25-year old car. About the 
only thing the government cares about after you own it is emissions, 
and even that is not evenly applied around the country. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Chapelhow" <chapelhow_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> All.
> 
> Sometime ago I posted a request for help finding a supplier who 
could 
> make wide-angle (convex) door mirrors. I had tried all of the UK 
> suppliers without success.
----------
> 
> driving over there I am still 
> amazed that they are not standard on all cars. Several people have 
> suggested that this may be a legal problem, if anyone can confirm 
or 
> dispute that it might be useful for Tom to know sooner rather than 
> later…
> 
> Joe/Dave thanks again.
> 
> John Chapelhow







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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 21:46:46 -0500
From: <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Cam Wear cause

I’ve read the archives and understand that the early Volvo’s suffered
from excessive cam wear and that the DeLorean version uses hardened cams
and therefore don’t have the same problem.  My passenger cam used to
have a loud ticking noise until I adjusted the rocker arms and I was
surprised at how much quieter the engine was.  That was 6 months ago,
and recently the engine redeveloped the ticking noise and I adjusted
again.  Less than a month later it is back and getting louder.  I’m
pretty sure that this is indicating that I’m experiencing excessive
wear.  The cam is well saturated with oil when I remove the cover so I’m
wondering what might be causing the cam to wear so badly so that I can
fix the cause when I replace the cam.  Are there a set of causes that
could make the cam wear or is this a case of the cam being damaged in
the past and just needs to be replaced, nothing else?
 
Thanks!
Jeff
#10544

-- 
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 02:46:34 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Door Strut Posts

There are differences in philosphy in how the struts are 
manufactured. I recall a discussion that I had with Rob a few years 
ago where he noted that the ones he sells are admittedly a 
bit "softer" than some of the others, he felt that this was the way 
to go to avoid putting extra stress on the lower ball stud that's 
attached to the fiberglass. (I believe his contention was that his 
were correct and the other were overcharged, but that's another 
discussion). I've been using his for several years with no issue, 4-5 
years seems to be about the lifespan. 

I still occasionally run into cars (the SC project car I'm working on 
comes to mind) that have the original 1981 date-code Lift-O-Mat (now 
Stabilus) struts in them. The doors on this particular car would rest 
at about half-mast, even with 23-year-old struts. I replaced them 
with used Grady struts that were about a year old (thanks Tony!) and 
did not have to adjust the torsion bar at all.  

So - if you stick with the same brand and don't screw with the doors 
in between strut replacement, you should be fine. Anything like this 
is a tradeoff, if you have softer struts you have to tighten up the 
torsion bar an extra notch, which can lead to other issues.  If you 
run the harder struts, you are putting more force on the ball studs 
than they may be designed for. So I guess you pick your poison.

Dave Swingle 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sgskbm" <SGSKBM_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> It has become apparent that there is a significant difference 
between 
> the door struts that the vendors offer. It seems to me that no one 
> seems to have a clear preference on the trunk or engine cover 
> struts.  I find it surprising that there is such a vast difference 
on 
> the door struts but the others are seemingly similar.
> 
> That being said, it seems like PJ Grady's offering seems to have a 
> significantly higher amount of reports of the same symptoms that I 
> have experienced.  Specifically, they do not seem to open the doors 
> all of the way.  
> 
> Since new, mine were weak and needed to be assisted but now they 
> won't even go up half way.  I recognize that three years is a 
> lifetime and even though I probably opened them less than 75 times 
on 
> the driver side and 20 times on the passenger side they have 
reached 
> their intended life span.
> 
> Given the confirmation of my findings it would appear that PJ 
Grady's 
> version would be best suited for someone with a tweaked torsion bar 
> or someone who wants the ultimate security of not damaging the 
door.  
> In my case, I now understand that there are differences and that it 
> might make sense to try a different vendor.
> 
> PJ Grady offers wonderful parts, service and advice to the 
community 
> and this situation with the door struts is certainly no reflection 
on 
> his organization.  It might be a good idea for him to look into his 
> offering and see if he could either change the spec or find a 
better 
> vendor.
> 
> Thanks to all that posted as it really did help me decide and also 
> confirm my thoughts on my struts.
> 
> Scot
> 6452






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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 03:02:59 -0000
From: "Josh Porter" <joshp1986_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Money to spend.

May I ask why you want an '81? Other than the gas flap? A lot of 
people will tell you to look in the $20K (US) range but I got one for 
$9K (us) '82 and it is what I consider to be in the same condition as 
I wanted, overall good car with minor work needed. Be patient and 
compare. I'm sorry for any mispelling, if I had to spell to save my 
life, I wouldn't be here.

Josh
10989

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "barry donnachie" 
<barrydonnachie_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi guys. been a member of the group for a while now.
> Thing is my grandmother has passed away ( god rest her soul) but 
has 
> left me around £10,000 (about $17000 i think) so i thought about 
buying 
> a flat. couldnt afford one.
> 
> so the next sensible idea hit me
> A D.
> 
> So heres were i feel like a jerk .
> 
> Im looking for a gd 81 model with the fuel flap not needing much 
work.
> i dont mind doing some work as im not expecting an a1 condition car 
but 
> something that will run for me. RHD would be great but LHD is just 
as 
> gd.
> 
> Cheers barry






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 00:06:45 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: The Door Strut Experiment

There was a study done about 2 years ago if anyone still has a copy.
I use only the factory original Stabilus which they have the logo on the
ends. Out of the 1000 units sold I have not any defective units returned and
I have been told the door struts were very strong, enough that you may want
to re-adjust the bar tension. We sell the door struts for $59.95 per set.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/Stabilus-catalog.jpg





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Rustproof
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 1:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] The Door Strut Experiment


Everyone,
OK, since I started this thread, I intend to finish it once and for all.
Since PJ Grady has been getting most of the heat (and bad press) and since
he guarantees his struts if not 100% satisfied, I am willing to bite the
bullet in the name of science and I have just ordered a set from him for
some $79.00 plus shipping. I will test them and evaluate them for all to see
as I will post the result as well as the conditions and parameters of the
testing right here on the DML. (I own an R&D company in New England and I
think that makes me uniquely qualified) I also have nothing better to do as
my D is completely restored and now I'm just playing. If they are in fact
unsatisfactory, I'll go to the next vendor until I get a "good" set. (The
evaluation may take some time but it will be worth it)  This will be of
course a single random sample test but since this isn't getting government
funding, I'm not going to get ten samples from each vendor for a
cross-sectional average or double-blind study. (Sorry Marc, but I have a
limited budget for this sort of thing and we know your admirable position on
VERY accurate information! Please forgive me.) After the test, I think the
vendor should have an opportunity for rebuttal and comment. If anyone else
is in need of struts, they are more than welcome to participate using
another vendor or perhaps the same vendor to confirm the veracity of my
results. It will at least expedite the test series. (You must have brand
new, unused struts, properly adjusted torsion bars, a thermometer, a tape
measure, a keen eye and accurate information about your doors such as added
weight, ie; door launchers, window modifications or other goodies that add
to or subtract from the normal burden on the door to participate) Contact me
if you are willing to help and with the name of the vendor you wish to test.
I will send you a uniform test specification. Testing suggestions are
welcome. Hey, it might even be fun. Stay tuned....
Rustproof
Vin 1559


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 00:30:03 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Who has the best door struts?


I don't think it's so much a matter of who you buy your struts from, so much 
as it is that you do it consistently.  Among the members of the midstate 
group, I think we had at least 4 different struts installed on our 
cars --including Grady's which I thought operated very nicely.  When 
comparing the operation of them at our last get-together, I noticed a lot of 
differences between the manufacturers.  Some were stronger than others at 
the beginning of the travel, some got much stronger at the end of the 
travel, some had dampeners at the top, and others were very consistent 
throughout.  There were also big differences among the cars themselves: 
inner door seals, outer door seals, roof hinge resistance, and dragging roof 
seals.  All these factors will affect the operation of your doors.

Because there are mild differences among the vendors, when you find a strut 
you like, adjust the torsion bars to match it and keep buying the same 
struts.  If you don't mind potentially adjusting the torsion bars every few 
years, then experiment with some others.  Right now, 1063 is sporting some 
struts from Steger that are 3 years old and still chuggin'.  I drive my car 
daily so they get a lot of cycles.  I like the struts just fine, but I kind 
of wish they had a dampening valve at the top of travel.  I've got the bar 
adjusted so they open fully with no bounce from approximately 60-80 degrees 
F, below about 60 they need a little help from me, and out in the beating 
sun they bounce just slightly above 80 degrees or so.  For this reason, 
Toby's temperature compensating struts are particularly intriguing to me.

Before sending your struts back, make sure nothing is obstructing the door 
opening movement.  Spray some silicone lube an all the seals, the roof 
hinges, and strut mounts.  If you need a torsion bar adjustment, get in 
touch with your local group (or you can come to my house near St. Louis!). 
I'll be looking forward to the door strut evaluation, and I imagine I'll be 
asking a lot of owners if I can play with their doors at DCS 06.

Jake Kamphoefner
1063


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lacy" <heylacy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Who has the best door struts?


> Hi I just bought a 6 set of Gradys, and they wont lift door all the way up 
> and you have to help them up. One lifts higher that the other even when 
> switched. I take it that the standard answer from the venders I called is 
> that the tortion bars need adj. . but trading struts with another D owner 
> my doors work fine . All the way up without excessive bounce.I also have 
> alot of side to side  and back in forth play when piston is in open 
> position, my old stocks struts did not have this play.Do you think I 
> should send back for refund and try another set? Thanks for your help, 
> lacy
>
> Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I use P.J. Grady's struts. I prefer Rob's as they
>> slow down at the top of the stroke eliminating the
>> heavy bounce effect. Other's I have tried give far
>> too much bounce at the top and I felt that I may be
>> damaging something. Others I have used felt way to
>> strong when closing the door. Fear of bending the
>> pins caused me to take them off and stick with Rob's.
>
> 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 05:31:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The Door Strut Experiment

A guy named Rick did this not too long ago.  Why not
check out his results?


--- Rustproof <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net> wrote:
<SNIP>

> willing to bite the bullet in the name of science
> and I have just ordered a set from him for some
> $79.00 plus shipping. I will test them and evaluate
> them for all to see as I will post the result as
> well as the conditions and parameters of the testing
<SNIP>


		
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 08:56:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cam Wear cause

Jeff,

If you have readjusted the rockers, the problem is probably one or more
plugged oil holes on the rockers. To find out, remove the cover and run
the engine long enough to see if all are dripping oil.

To keep oil from dripping on the side of the engine, I made what
amounted to the cover minus the top.  I made mine from wood on a band
saw but an old cover with the top cut out would probably work better. 
The expert vendors probably have a better idea.

The longer you drive with this noise on a dry cam lobe, the more likely
you will have to replace the cam.

Good luck,

Woody


		
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 12:12:13 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel smell

The advice you got was pretty much on the money.  I always counsel 
changing the gas cap first, especially since the smell is worse when the 
tank is filled.  Rod mentions fuel around and on top of the pump.  This 
is often caused by fuel seeping into the boot around the return pipe. 
It may also come from a cap nut that is not quite tight enough, a 
notched copper washer, or a loose clamp around the outside of the boot.

Deloreans have been plagued with fuel smells since they came out.  A 
popular remedy in the early days was to block the hole in the fresh air 
manifold that's located in the fiberglass body just above and to the 
rear of the where the fuel pump is mounted in the tank.  I doubt that 
this very effective by itself, but there was one dramatic unintended 
consequence.  That hole is the drain for that manifold.  All the water 
that runs down the windshield and through the screen goes into that 
space and is supposed to spill out onto the fuel tank and run to the 
ground.  That's why the cover seal needs to be in place, btw.  In a big 
rain, the manifolds with the improved ventalation filled up with water 
until full, at which point water began to run out of the fresh air vent 
in the fan motor area and onto the passengers feet and right side 
carpet.  This can happen naturally if a Delorean is parked under a pecan 
or any tree that drops stuff regulaly.  The leaves drop into the 
manifold and collect at the drain, blocking it.  Then would come the 
rain and the wet feet.  Next time you're in the area of the fuel tank, 
take a look at that drain hole.  Pull all the debris out of it.  If 
there is tape or some improvement, take it off.  Your carpet will smell 
better.

Warren at DMC


DMCVIN6683 wrote:
> When i fill my tank with out spilling a drop of gas i usually smell gas 
> till the tank gets lower on fuel. I dont see any leaks.
> 
> Is this normal?
> 
> I did some research and it seems normal but i was wondering if it 
> really is normal?
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 14:30:16 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak

I had the same exact problem.  My solution was repeatedly trying to
tighten that cap / ring until it stopped.  I had to use one of those
rubber jar opener grips until my hands hurt.  Maybe an oil filter
strap wrench would work...  I finally got it to stop, so that probably
isn't necessary or recommended.

--Greg
#2894

On 5/6/05, funkstuf <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> I had this problem and it was leaking out of the gasket around the
> fuel sending unit.  It was be noticeable right after filling then
> again if I parked on a hill and had too much gas.  It drained back
> past the plate and out the passenger side on mine.
> D. Funk
> #4984
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_y...>
> wrote:
> > I just filled my car for the second time last night.  As it was
> > topping off, a couple of people walking by noticed gasoline
> dripping
> > from underneath, near the passenger side (I think near the corner
> of
> > the triangular plate).
> >
> > Looks like maybe a cup or so of gas dripped on the concrete, then
> > stopped.  I took the car on a 20 minute ride, no more drips and
> the
> > tank stayed full per the gauge.
> >
> > I haven't looked into it yet, and plan to do so this weekend.  I
> > always smell gas when parked in the garage, so I know something is
> > allowing fumes to escape all the time, and hope it is obvious when
> I
> > take a look at it.  but if it isn't obvious, anyone have a similar
> > experience?  Could it be something like a leak in filler tube/pipe
> > between the tank and gas fill opening?
> >
> > I suspect parts are original for the fuel tank equipment. Perhaps
> I am
> > in need of some sort of fuel system replacement kit.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Paul




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 23:24:10 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)

No, it does not say that it is cooked.

Do you know what PWM is ? This is how the motor is driven.
left, rigt, left, right.... and so on

so for center position the time that one side is low is 50%,
of course the other side is then 50% on, too.
simply calculated is 50% on time at 12V = 6V ! So you will always 
measure some positive voltage as long as you work with the wrong 
tools. Get a scope to measure it and to see what I mean.

PWM frequency is 100Hz.

By the way I can fix those ECU's without any trouble. Most
expensive is the shipping from the US to Germany and back.

Elvis


The same plug/wires you're talking about. All 3 of mine give +
voltage, so obviously it has to be that my ECU is cooked...I'm
currently working on a replacement. -----Dani B. #5003





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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 16:12:02 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: First time advertised for sale.

For Sale:  81 Auto, Gray.   First time ever advertised for sale.  Purchased from original owner with 3K miles 8 years ago. Now 8K.  Always garaged with both owners.  New Michelins last week with ONE mile on them!!  All original except fluids and new Interstate battery last year.  Only addition is Remote Start/doors lock-unlock/light/alarm system etc.  Immaculate Interior and exterior except for tiny dent in passengers door.  Wheels sparkle.  Engine Compt clean.  Daily driver but this town is small and I don't go very far at a time.  Starts instantly always and idles same.     Only known problems are drivers window inoperative, have new lift but physically unable to install it....also passenger seat belt does not retract.  Cooling system does not leak a drop but nothing done to it since new.  I am aware that this should all be replaced including radiator probably.   Also probably  other things on a low mileage 20 plus year old car.  Brakes redone completely a couple years ago due to right rear pad separating  (A rare thing I am told).  All manuals and complete DeLorean World mags since beginning in binders.  Also ALL books  and magazines known that concern DeLorean.  Several first and lower place trophys at Auto Shows.  Plaque for Oldest Owner at Memphis DeLorean Car Show!  Ask for any details desired.  
    Reason for selling is my physical condition and age.....84 and have arthritis and bursitis hip problem.  Unable to get in and out of D without pain. (but I do it anyway so far!!) Sad situation but I am stuck with.  
    Asking 22K but will sell for best offer.
  
    Murray  Fisher
    1011 Hobson St
    Walla Walla, WA  99362
    
    Vin: 05962
    Lic:  DMC-XII

murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 00:14:10 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cam Wear cause

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
>
I replaced both my cams and both rocker arm assemblys last year when i 
rebuilt the top of the motor cause both were worn.. I still have rocker arm 
tapping going on even though i have readjusted the rockers about three time 
in the past year.. seems like the more i adjust them the noiser they get.. I know 
these engines always had loud rocker assemblies but i check on it once in a 
while to see what it looks like.. The cams still look new even with the rocker 
tapping noise.. And i have oil pumping through all the holes so I dont think 
anything is wrong. basically just noisy engines..Dave..vin 15275





 Jeff,
> 
> If you have readjusted the rockers, the problem is probably one or more
> plugged oil holes on the rockers. To find out, remove the cover and run
> the engine long enough to see if all are dripping oil.
> 
> To keep oil from dripping on the side of the engine, I made what
> amounted to the cover minus the top.  I made mine from wood on a band
> saw but an old cover with the top cut out would probably work better. 
> The expert vendors probably have a better idea.
> 
> The longer you drive with this noise on a dry cam lobe, the more likely
> you will have to replace the cam.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Woody
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Make Yahoo! your home page 
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 23:26:53 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Cam Wear cause

Woah, you can run the engine without the valve covers?  I thought this
would make a huge vacuum leak?  

Matt
#1604
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Y...> wrote:
> Jeff,
> 
> If you have readjusted the rockers, the problem is probably one or more
> plugged oil holes on the rockers. To find out, remove the cover and run
> the engine long enough to see if all are dripping oil.
> 
> To keep oil from dripping on the side of the engine, I made what
> amounted to the cover minus the top.  I made mine from wood on a band
> saw but an old cover with the top cut out would probably work better. 
> The expert vendors probably have a better idea.
> 
> The longer you drive with this noise on a dry cam lobe, the more likely
> you will have to replace the cam.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Woody
> 
> 
> 		
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Make Yahoo! your home page 
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 23:54:58 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)

What else can it be? I've disassembled one of those motors so I know
how they work or how their driven. I just purchased an NOS motor that
when I apply 12 volts and quickly touch a terminal with negative-it
closes/opens depending on the side so I know it works fine. But still
when I connect it-nothing happens and the motor stays silent. I've
already gone over the wires and switch, only thing that's left is the
ECU. As far as the wires, every single one is positive, and it doesn't
change back and forth between negatives-so with no negative at all
present I thought well how will the motor operate. How much is it to
ship to Germany? I may be able to ship it very cheep to Holland and
then from Holland to Germany-might save if from US to Germany is
pricey. This ECU has had some previous work-just a capacitor was
changed.....-----Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> No, it does not say that it is cooked.
> 
> Do you know what PWM is ? This is how the motor is driven.
> left, rigt, left, right.... and so on
> 
> so for center position the time that one side is low is 50%,
> of course the other side is then 50% on, too.
> simply calculated is 50% on time at 12V = 6V ! So you will always 
> measure some positive voltage as long as you work with the wrong 
> tools. Get a scope to measure it and to see what I mean.
> 
> PWM frequency is 100Hz.
> 
> By the way I can fix those ECU's without any trouble. Most
> expensive is the shipping from the US to Germany and back.
> 
> Elvis
> 
> 
> The same plug/wires you're talking about. All 3 of mine give +
> voltage, so obviously it has to be that my ECU is cooked...I'm
> currently working on a replacement. -----Dani B. #5003






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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