From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2613
Date: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 2:38 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Cam Wear cause (soft camshafts
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Update/Next Question
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: First time advertised for sale.
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

4. Re: Cam Wear cause (PRV Internal Vacuum)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Fender mounted Ariel Removal / Replacement.....
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

6. Tires
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Jay Sisto Please Contact Me Off-List
From: toscano2_at_dml_ix.netcom.com

8. Re: Update/Next Question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. RE: Update/Next Question
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: Re: Cam Wear cause
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

11. road & track
From: "bill" <dloreanboy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. RE: Re: Update/Next Question
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: First time advertised for sale.
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

14. Re: First time advertised for sale.
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

15. Re: Update/Next Question
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

16. idle saga will never dies !!!
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>

17. Volvo Engine Crossreference.
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>

18. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

19. Re: First time advertised for sale.
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

20. Re: Re: Update/Next Question
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

21. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

22. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>

23. DMC for sale in Carmel, IN
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

25. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 02:28:36 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Cam Wear cause (soft camshafts

For some reason this rumor is endemic in the DeLorean community and
simply refuses to die (quite ironic when you consider DeLo usage
accounts for only .8% of total PRV production). There is no difference
in camshaft composition between various B27/B28 applications. The only
words Volvo ever printed on the subject were to substitute 10W30 oil
over the previous 10W40 spec (retroactive to the beginning of PRV
usage). Thicker oil has a tendency to gum up camshaft/rocker arm
orifices. Note that the rocker arm orifices are located at the
camshaft lobes, not the valve stems -- quite possibly the source of
characteristic valve noise.






>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rvparty_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I've read the archives and understand that the early Volvo's suffered
> from excessive cam wear and that the DeLorean version uses hardened cams
> and therefore don't have the same problem.  My passenger cam used to
> have a loud ticking noise until I adjusted the rocker arms and I was
> surprised at how much quieter the engine was.  That was 6 months ago,
> and recently the engine redeveloped the ticking noise and I adjusted
> again.  Less than a month later it is back and getting louder.  I'm
> pretty sure that this is indicating that I'm experiencing excessive
> wear.  The cam is well saturated with oil when I remove the cover so I'm
> wondering what might be causing the cam to wear so badly so that I can
> fix the cause when I replace the cam.  Are there a set of causes that
> could make the cam wear or is this a case of the cam being damaged in
> the past and just needs to be replaced, nothing else?
>  
> Thanks!
> Jeff
> #10544
> 
> -- 
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> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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>  
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.6 - Release Date: 5/6/05






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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 20:50:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Update/Next Question

Hey guys,

A couple months ago I asked you guys opinion on what I
described as the car "auto enriching" itself.  Most of
the responses I got on it was "vacuum leak".  You guys
were dead on.  There were two spots I had leaks.  One
was at the plastic connector (There's a single black
hose on the back left of the engine bay, follow that
hose and you'll get to a connector that's white on one
side and black on the other.) on one of the hoses; the
other - believe this or not - was the tiny rubber hose
that goes from the idle speed motor to the cold start
valve.  Fixed those problems, and the car is runnign
real well again.  Thanks for the help of those who
repsonded to me.  Appreciate it.

Now - the next one.  Car is dead, push hazard switch
on - hazard lights respond.  Car is running, push
hazard light switch - nothing happens....Put the left
or right turn signal on and turn the hazard light
switch on, BOOM ...hazard lights work perfectly.  Now
how in the world is that?




		
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Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out! 
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 23:12:54 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: First time advertised for sale.

Aw man!  Murray, I hope you stay involved in the community!  You have 
always been a fixture here and at the car shows!  We'll miss ya if you 
go away!

Somebody out there is going to get a really nice DeLorean too!

All my best,
Josh


Murray Fisher wrote:

>For Sale:  81 Auto, Gray.   First time ever advertised for sale.  Purchased from original owner with 3K miles 8 years ago. Now 8K.  Always garaged with both owners.  New Michelins last week with ONE mile on them!!  All original except fluids and new Interstate battery last year.  Only addition is Remote Start/doors lock-unlock/light/alarm system etc.  Immaculate Interior and exterior except for tiny dent in passengers door.  Wheels sparkle.  Engine Compt clean.  Daily driver but this town is small and I don't go very far at a time.  Starts instantly always and idles same.     Only known problems are drivers window inoperative, have new lift but physically unable to install it....also passenger seat belt does not retract.  Cooling system does not leak a drop but nothing done to it since new.  I am aware that this should all be replaced including radiator probably.   Also probably  other things on a low mileage 20 plus year old car.  Brakes redone completely a couple years ago due to right rear pad separating  (A rare thing I am told).  All manuals and complete DeLorean World mags since beginning in binders.  Also ALL books  and magazines known that concern DeLorean.  Several first and lower place trophys at Auto Shows.  Plaque for Oldest Owner at Memphis DeLorean Car Show!  Ask for any details desired.  
>    Reason for selling is my physical condition and age.....84 and have arthritis and bursitis hip problem.  Unable to get in and out of D without pain. (but I do it anyway so far!!) Sad situation but I am stuck with.  
>    Asking 22K but will sell for best offer.
>  
>    Murray  Fisher
>    1011 Hobson St
>    Walla Walla, WA  99362
>    
>    Vin: 05962
>    Lic:  DMC-XII
>
>murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net 
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>  
>






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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 02:57:05 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Cam Wear cause (PRV Internal Vacuum)

PRV does run more internal vacuum than a traditional domestic block
(see Workshop Manual Page D:06:03). Listen to the thing groan when you
plug the breather hose with your finger tip. You can also bog it down
or kill it by spraying carb cleaner through the passenger side access
plug in the timing cover (immediately processed by the intake).

I do not recommend running an engine with the valve covers off. Once
adjusted valve lash that way on a stud mount 460. Will never do it
again -- makes an ungodly mess all over the driveway. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Woah, you can run the engine without the valve covers?  I thought this
> would make a huge vacuum leak?  
> 
> Matt
> #1604







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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 12:22:36 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Fender mounted Ariel Removal / Replacement.....

Hi All

Im am wanting to replace my RHS front fender mounted ariel, cant for
the life of me think how to get this off from underneath the s/s
panel ,obviously there is no access from the underside, any ideas
folks??


Regards

Mike
#2001






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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 05:09:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Tires

I've searched the archives and to my suprise I couldn't find anything of substance on this.    I need 2 new back tires.  I'm currently running Yoko AVS Intermediates.  The fronts are in great shape, but the backs will not pass inspection due to wear.
 
I'm pondering the BF Goodrich T/A Radial or the Dunlop GT qualifier.   I don't have the cash right now to do all four so please don't say they will be mis-matched.....I know and it pains me that the fronts are in such good shape.
 
If you have these tires or have experience using both I would like to know your impressions.   
 
If anyone is interested in a pair of good used front AVS tires let me know.  I can send you a pic showing tread depth.  I could then spring for a set of fronts as well.  
 
 

		
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 02:30:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: toscano2_at_dml_ix.netcom.com
Subject: Jay Sisto Please Contact Me Off-List

*****  Moderator Note  *****
The member profiles of DML members don't always contain enough information for us to forward this kind of request.  We will when we can, but sometimes we have to handle this through the list.

Mike G  Moderator of the week
*****

(Moderator: Kindly forward this to Jay if possible, I have a new computer and lost his email address).

Jay,
Please drop me an email regarding your last message to me, I am interested in more info but lost your email address when I changed PCs. 

Thanks!




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 14:09:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Update/Next Question

Sometimes there is no simple answer for a problem. This is one of
those times. You will have to go into every inch of your directional
system and find and fix anything that doesn't look right. Start at the
bulbs. Make sure that the correct type is in each socket, it is
inserted correctly, and is not corroded. Check the wiring that it is
not pinched, cut, grounded, etc. You could have a melted switch or
maybe a plug is not on correctly, it could be misindexed or partially
on. You might have a bad flasher. This is not a common failure mode so
it will take some investigation. The turn and hazard signals have a
common component, the turn switch, so there could be a problem with it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- the next one.  Car is dead, push hazard switch
> on - hazard lights respond.  Car is running, push
> hazard light switch - nothing happens....Put the left
> or right turn signal on and turn the hazard light
> switch on, BOOM ...hazard lights work perfectly.  Now
> how in the world is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 		
> Discover Yahoo! 
> Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out! 
> http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html






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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 08:26:34 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Update/Next Question

Really bizarre behavior of electrical systems such as you describe is often 
the result of a bad or completely missing ground. Circuits then behave in 
weird ways due to "sneak" paths that change depending upon the setting of 
various switches in the car. I know that may not be too much help, but in my 
experience that is usually the cause of the kind of behavior you descibe.

I would start by verifyingh that there are no blown fuses, then start 
looking for missing grounds. Often corrosion at a grounding point is the 
culprit.

-Joe Kuchan

>Now - the next one.  Car is dead, push hazard switch
>on - hazard lights respond.  Car is running, push
>hazard light switch - nothing happens....Put the left
>or right turn signal on and turn the hazard light
>switch on, BOOM ...hazard lights work perfectly.  Now
>how in the world is that?






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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 07:47:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cam Wear cause

I'm sure that running the car w/o the valve cover installed will cause
a huge vaccuum leak but the car should run. 

Running w/o the cover will also cause a huge oily mess unless something
is rigged to catch the oil.  I built what amounted to a valve cover
minus the top so I could see if one or more of the rocker arm orifices
was not dropping oil.

I found that all the rocker arms were in new condition except the one
that was not dripping oil (which had excessive wear due to lack of
lubrication) and did not see the need to buy all new rocker arms. 
Thus,the time taken to observe the cam oiling was worthwhile.  

Although I decided to remove the rocker arms, I found upon removal that
I probably could have removed the minor obstruction with a small wire
but would have had a rocker arm with excessive error (probably from the
month I drove the car with the rocker noise)

I considered replacing the cam; however, it looked OK and did not have
any damage to the hardened surfaces except for some minor discoloration
on the lobe that did not get lubrication.

BTW, I had a new cam from a Volvo engine that I considered installing
but decided against it because the lobes did mike quite as high a lift
as my original cam.

While this may be obvious, be sure you have the cam in the right
positions when adjusting.

Rob Grady's help was very useful thru this process.

Woody

p.s. on another subject: I've had Rob's door cylinders on my car since
1999 and they still work fine.



		
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 15:43:28 -0000
From: "bill" <dloreanboy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: road & track

I received my new road&track magazine today,june issue 2005.On page
37 their is a article on john z delorean 1925-2005 regarding his career
and the dmc12, small article.






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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 10:45:59 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Update/Next Question

Another thought: Shorted isolation diodes can result in this kind of 
behavior. When they short, they create "sneak" paths that weren't there 
before. Then all kind of strange things can happen. A diode should measure 
high resistance in one direction and low resistance in the other. When 
shorted they measure low resistance in both directions.

-Joe Kuchan

-

>
>
>-- the next one.  Car is dead, push hazard switch
> > on - hazard lights respond.  Car is running, push
> > hazard light switch - nothing happens....Put the left
> > or right turn signal on and turn the hazard light
> > switch on, BOOM ...hazard lights work perfectly.  Now
> > how in the world is that?






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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 08:49:21 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: First time advertised for sale.

Josh.....thanks for the kind words.   If I had storage space at home I would 
keep the D just to look at!  Ho Ho.  I lost garage space across the street 
(that I have used four or five years) when the people decided to sell the 
place instead of keeping it (vacant) until they retired!

Yes, someone will get a really nice car.....actually I "sort of" had it 
sold......a good friend wanted it badly when I was ready to sell and he put 
half my price in escrow for me until that time.....A doc recently told him 
he had emphysema pretty bad and nothing to be done....He said he would not 
back out of the deal but would appreciate if it we would let him out of 
it.....under the circumstances we felt we SHOULD and did!!

I intend to stay on the List and always read everything even if most does 
not really pertain to me.    After eight years I still try to think of 
reasons to take the D for a little spin for a loaf of bread or to the post 
office!    We still hope to go to the Car Shows too.   I don't get around as 
well as I used to but have a Segway I use all the time around town etc.  It 
is always a problem transporting it to where I want to use it out of town 
though.  Thanks again.

Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII 





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 10:08:14 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: First time advertised for sale.

List,

I live about an hour from Murray and will be in Walla Walla this
Saturday. If anyone is interested and wants someone local to check the
car out, assuming Murray is available Saturday I would be more than
happy to do that for you. This Saturday is the last time I'll have for
a long time, so if you want me to look it over you'll need to move
fast.

Murray, sorry to hear you're selling! Let me know if I can be of any
help to you.

-Ryan

On 5/9/05, Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net> wrote:
> Aw man!  Murray, I hope you stay involved in the community!  You have
> always been a fixture here and at the car shows!  We'll miss ya if you
> go away!
> 
> Somebody out there is going to get a really nice DeLorean too!
> 
> All my best,
> Josh
> 
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 11:40:27 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Update/Next Question

Joe's right about the grounds being trouble, but before you go off on a 
quest, check the connection at the back of the switch.  Reach around 
behind the A/C panel, under the flap of the console.  Push the plug on 
the back of the hazard switch so that all the contacts make as well as 
they can.  Weird things happen when that plug or the one behind the 
light switch are only partly connected.  Maybe the ground pin is open 
and there is one available when the turn signal is selected. If it turns 
out you need a hazard switch, give me a call.

http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=1414&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax

Joseph Kuchan wrote:
> Really bizarre behavior of electrical systems such as you describe is often 
> the result of a bad or completely missing ground. Circuits then behave in 
> weird ways due to "sneak" paths that change depending upon the setting of 
> various switches in the car. I know that may not be too much help, but in my 
> experience that is usually the cause of the kind of behavior you descibe.
> 
> I would start by verifyingh that there are no blown fuses, then start 
> looking for missing grounds. Often corrosion at a grounding point is the 
> culprit.
> 
> -Joe Kuchan
> 
> 
>>Now - the next one.  Car is dead, push hazard switch
>>on - hazard lights respond.  Car is running, push
>>hazard light switch - nothing happens....Put the left
>>or right turn signal on and turn the hazard light
>>switch on, BOOM ...hazard lights work perfectly.  Now
>>how in the world is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 18:17:05 -0000
From: "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: idle saga will never dies !!!

i have a couple of questions regarding prv6 idle 
troubles/observations, because its since 2 years now that i try to 
fix it and it just wont work

first :  

the starting idle....as somes said it could be normal, but i need to 
fix it, because when cold the engine revs up to 2000-
2500...acceptable, but when hot it goes up to 3500(you look like a 
moron when theres people all over the car and the car start like 
this, maybe the computer think the engine is still cold when hot ??? 
sensor??, i also noticed that when you shut off the engine without 
the key(dumping the clutch) and you restart it i will just start 
perfectly(1000rpm right away) no revs what does that ?? whats the 
reason ??


second : 

i also fixed my a/c last week (was empty) but now when the a/c is on 
and the car is idling the idle fluctuate alot (1500-500rpm) and 
sometimes die, what does this ? and please dont tell me that the 
prv6 dont have enough hp to make the compressor turning !!!

i had recently adjust the co level the best i can with everyday road 
test(i adjusted it once a day a little till the car accelerate fine, 
idle fine etc...) it seems ok now, ive replace all vacuums lines, 
gasket, o-rings, under intake sensors(3), the cold start valve is 2 
years old as the warm up reg, cap/rotor spark plugs/wires are new, 
timing is perfect


i need to fix these things NOW please any hints would be great !!!


thanks alot
yan

6584






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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 18:54:27 -0000
From: "trekkerlb" <TrekkerLB_at_dml_Netzero.Com>
Subject: Volvo Engine Crossreference.

I just wanted a quick confirmation, is the Volvo engine that's the same 
as the D's the B28 or the B280 - or are they the same?
Thanks!
Luis & 3723







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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 18:25:44 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

Well I got some bad news this morning.  After losing more than a
week's worth of good sleep (wondering what to do first, how to get it
home, if someone else wants to buy it, if it's restorable), taking
about 100 pictures of the car, looking up part prices online for
hours, buying a set of struts and a full set of manuals (I'll need
those eventually anyway) and running a carFAX report, I made an offer
yesterday and the guy said he'd do it if his son didn't want it, money
was no object in this case (it's a father/son thing).  Well guess
what, he did want it, and what's worse is I believe he's going to use
it as a parts car.  I am beyond crushed at this point.  I feel like I
don't ever want one now, even though I know it's not true.  I've never
been so close to getting something like this only to have it ripped
from me by an invisible force.  Actually, it feels like a relationship
breaking up for what appears to be no reason.  I fell in love with
#4543 and she's gone now.  So close to my birthday, too.
To make matters worse, I still have to go to work today.  I should get
time off for this to grieve.
Thanks for all the folks who emailed me privately to encourage me with
their project car stories!
Bid farewell to VIN 4543...
*snif*

-John

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_h...>
wrote:
> If you can "adopt" it (as I did my Volare' from VQ in Elfrida, AZ),
I would 
> think restoration would be well worth it.  Even if it can be
obtained very 
> inexpensively- still a good deal.  Once you acquire it, bear in
mind:  how 
> much is somethiing worth if it is not for sale?   Personally, I would 
> actively persue adoption.       Drive Stainless       Robert    VIN
6924    
> Sp. Tag- AgBULIT







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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 12:09:42 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: First time advertised for sale.

Hi Ryan,
    Well, I guess the main help I will need in selling the DeLorean will be 
some kind of a spot remover to remove my "tears" dripping on the Stainless 
Steel. Ho Ho.  I almost hope it wont sell!!!
    Be glad to have you drop by for a visit and compare notes anyway.   I am 
here most of the time, but DO have things to do from time to time...like go 
to a grandsons baseball game Saturday!!  Ha.
    Murray

 





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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 13:39:03 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Update/Next Question

It is probably the LED lights you are using for the turn signals. I 
heard they do not function correctly for signals.

Mark V


On May 10, 2005, at 9:09 AM, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> Sometimes there is no simple answer for a problem. This is one of
> those times. You will have to go into every inch of your directional
> system and find and fix anything that doesn't look right. Start at the
> bulbs. Make sure that the correct type is in each socket, it is
> inserted correctly, and is not corroded. Check the wiring that it is
> not pinched, cut, grounded, etc. You could have a melted switch or
> maybe a plug is not on correctly, it could be misindexed or partially
> on. You might have a bad flasher. This is not a common failure mode so
> it will take some investigation. The turn and hazard signals have a
> common component, the turn switch, so there could be a problem with it.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> -- the next one.  Car is dead, push hazard switch
>> on - hazard lights respond.  Car is running, push
>> hazard light switch - nothing happens....Put the left
>> or right turn signal on and turn the hazard light
>> switch on, BOOM ...hazard lights work perfectly.  Now
>> how in the world is that?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 		
>> Discover Yahoo!
>> Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out!
>> http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>





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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 20:04:28 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

Don't think of it as bad news.  There are plenty more out there
that would be better starting points for a restoration.  Besides, 
now you know of a place to get parts...

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>: -------------- 


> Well I got some bad news this morning. After losing more than a 
> week's worth of good sleep (wondering what to do first, how to get it 
> home, if someone else wants to buy it, if it's restorable), taking 
> about 100 pictures of the car, looking up part prices online for 
> hours, buying a set of struts and a full set of manuals (I'll need 
> those eventually anyway) and running a carFAX report, I made an offer 
> yesterday and the guy said he'd do it if his son didn't want it, money 
> was no object in this case (it's a father/son thing). Well guess 
> what, he did want it, and what's worse is I believe he's going to use 
> it as a parts car. 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 20:08:27 -0000
From: "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_lffltd.com>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

John don't give up so easily. Go talk to the son. 
btw, are comfortable revealing to the group what you offered? I am
just curious. No offense if you want to keep that private.






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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 20:10:36 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMC for sale in Carmel, IN

In Carmel, Indiana (just north of Indianapolis), there is a DMC for
sale:

1981, Gray interior, 5-speed
14K miles, according to the dealer
$14,500
http://colossus-lp.com/81_dlrn

I went over to see it, but unfortunately, the car was not at the
dealer's at the time.  It was down the street at a shop getting a fuel
pump replacement.  So I drove over to the shop and briefly walked
around it.

The body panels look pretty good, but the interior looks like it could
use some TLC.  It looks like it's been sitting in the sun a lot (by
the look of the louvers, the fascias, etc.) and has some other minor
cosmetic issues.  The frame has some rust.

If someone on the list is seriously interested in buying it, I could
revisit the dealer in a few days and see how it drives.

Aaron
#1506






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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 21:33:07 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.

The B28 and B280 share the same block as the DeLorean but the B28 has 
the same intake manifold and the fuel system is basically the same. The 
crank case and sump are different.

Martin

trekkerlb wrote:

>I just wanted a quick confirmation, is the Volvo engine that's the same 
>as the D's the B28 or the B280 - or are they the same?
>Thanks!
>Luis & 3723
>  
>





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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 14:31:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

 
John,
 
Don't worry!  With the kind of money you have to spend (20K, wasn't it?), there are about 6000 more DeLorean's left for you to buy.  When you buy one in better condition, you'll probably thank yourself.  Just keep looking!
 
Jake
1063


John Spangler <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net> wrote:
<snip>
#4543 and she's gone now. So close to my birthday, too.
To make matters worse, I still have to go to work today. I should get
time off for this to grieve.
Thanks for all the folks who emailed me privately to encourage me with
their project car stories!
Bid farewell to VIN 4543...
*snif*

-John


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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