From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2615
Date: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 9:25 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

2. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Update/Next Question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Water Pump R&R
From: "deepdmc" <deepdmc12_at_dml_cfl.rr.com>

6. Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>

8. Re: Update/Next Question (LED Turn Signals)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft
From: "fgdavison" <fgdavison_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_comcast.net>

13. Jay Sisto Please Contact Me Off-List
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>

14. Corrected: Cam Wear cause (Soft Camshafts)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Removing windscreen trim
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

16. Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>

17. Re: Update/Next Question
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. RE: Water Pump R&R
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

19. Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. RE: Re: Update/Next Question (LED Turn Signals)
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

22. RE: Removing windscreen trim
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

24. 4.2 L Chevy V6 engine in delorean
From: "fchenail" <fchenail_at_dml_cgocable.ca>

25. Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 18:40:18 -0400
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

Fret not, John,
It's tough when you want something soooo bad.  The ironic thing is, your 
'bad news' will miraculously change over time into 'the best thing that 
could have happened' for you.  It's hard to believe (right now), but 
life is funny that way.

As badly as I wanted it, and as convenient as it was, I passed up my 
first D, then went home to sulk about it. What an emotional roller 
coaster ride purchasing a D can be.
The doors were 'floppy' and he used a wooden stick to hold them up.  "It 
just needs a torsion bar adjustment," he told me.  "Anybody can do it- 
it's real easy."
I knew even less than I know now about D's, but the wooden sticks made 
me wonder, if it's so easy. . .
The engine sounded rough too, although when I took it for a test drive, 
I was in heaven!  What a rush!
But we walked away, biding our time until the EXACT right DeLorean for 
us came up.  And it did.  -And it was actually better than hoped for.
Money, patience, time, and perseverance will pay off, and you'll someday 
be laughing at how emotional you were about that 'other' car.
-Even when they offer to throw in the sticks for free! :)
Oliver Holler
vin 10694




Re: Restorable or Parts Car?
> 
> Well I got some bad news this morning. 





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 18:38:10 EDT
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

For the most part the 20K rule still applies, Been there done that,  I 
purchased a "restorable" DeLorean in 1998 and spent much more then I would have 
needed to pay for a D in good shape to get it running, drivable, and looking 
decent.  Now I will say that it personally rewarding to bring a dead Delorean back 
to life and to the road, but it will cost more in money time and stress, (not 
to mention tow truck bills) then say a 10 to 12K car that needs a little work, 
but still runs and drives.

Keep looking, with resources such as the internet you can find DeLoreans all 
over

Andrew
4194



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 23:38:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

Never say never. If the son was really interested in it he would be
doing more than letting it rot. He would either be taking it apart to
part it out or he would be fixing it up to run. Sometimes you have to
be persistant and have a lot of patience. Wait some time and then
inquire again if the car might be for sale again. Timing is everything
so you have to be there at the right time. If you show up regularly
you might get lucky and catch them at the right time when they are
ready to sell. You could offer to help them part it out or fix it up.
That way you will know what is going on with the car. At the very
least if they fix it up you will be friendly with a local owner. In
the meantime keep looking. If you have the money and the desire, you
WILL find one.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> John don't give up so easily. Go talk to the son. 
> btw, are comfortable revealing to the group what you offered? I am
> just curious. No offense if you want to keep that private.






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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 23:42:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Update/Next Question

If you have L.E.D.'s you will have to do something about the flasher.
The stock flasher needs a certain load to operate properly. LED's
won't load the flasher so you should either go back to regular bulbs
or change the flasher to an electronic type.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> It is probably the LED lights you are using for the turn signals. I 
> heard they do not function correctly for signals.
> 
>






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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 23:50:21 -0000
From: "deepdmc" <deepdmc12_at_dml_cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Water Pump R&R

On the way home from work I threw an alternator belt. It looks like 
the culprit is the water pump pulley, it seems to sway a little side 
to side. My question is how involved is it to replace the water pump 
myself? Is it fairly easy just time consuming? Are there any right ups 
or how to's on the net? 

Thanks,
Justin
16579






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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 01:18:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.

B28 and B280 are very different engines. B28 is odd fire, B280 is even
fire. B28 is reportedly smaller displacement, although I have seen
B280 spec'd at 2.849 liters as well. Irrespective, intake ports are
different diameters. Whole intake manifold is different for that
matter (LH Jetronic versus K Jet). Distributor cam gear is on the
other side. Stock compression ratios are higher. Main bearings are
reportedly different. I do believe the main block castings are
identical, however (in fact are identical to B27).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> The B28 and B280 share the same block as the DeLorean but the B28 has 
> the same intake manifold and the fuel system is basically the same. The 
> crank case and sump are different.
> 
> Martin
> 
> trekkerlb wrote:
> 
> >I just wanted a quick confirmation, is the Volvo engine that's the
same 
> >as the D's the B28 or the B280 - or are they the same?
> >Thanks!
> >Luis & 3723
> >  
> >






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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 23:29:18 -0000
From: "John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> 
wrote:
> John don't give up so easily. Go talk to the son. 
> btw, are comfortable revealing to the group what you offered? I am
> just curious. No offense if you want to keep that private.

  Well the money apparently was a non-issue.  It kills me that I 
could have had it for so little (sub-$500), but the old guy's like a 
millionaire from investments and such, and he's tight with his son, 
who's also his lawyer among other things.  It would have been 
perfect to have this one for so little and still have enough for a 
second nicer car, and work on/get experience with this one when I 
had time/money.
  So I guess the irony here is that if he were a poor old guy and 
needed money, he would probably have asked for more than what I was 
willing to pay, and I might have turned it down, but since he's rich 
and didn't need money, he'd rather just give it away to his son than 
sell it to me for practically nothing.  His son lives in CA and he's 
sending someone out to pick up the car next week.  Apparently the 
fear of someone restoring it scared him good.
He apparently was selling this one and a much nicer one at one time 
for a mere $2800 before his son took an interest.  I'm about a year 
too late.  
It's been a weird day.  Love/breakup songs started making sense 
again, and I feel like the coyote chasing the roadrunner and I just 
plucked a tailfeather when I noticed I was standing on a cloud of 
dust and nothing more.
Thwump!
I'm certain it's because it's the first one I've seen in person in 
so many years, regardless of condition.  She cast her siren's spell 
on me for sure.  I'll get over it next time I see one hopefully.
But then again, maybe not.

-John






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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 01:28:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Update/Next Question (LED Turn Signals)

I believe you have to put resistors in line (emulating bulb load)
otherwise the flasher circuitry malfunctions. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> It is probably the LED lights you are using for the turn signals. I 
> heard they do not function correctly for signals.
> 
> Mark V
> 







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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 01:14:04 -0000
From: "fgdavison" <fgdavison_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft

The passenger side cooling fan has slipped off the shaft of the motor.
 The hole in the motor shaft for the shear pin is plugged with the
remnants of the pin and I cannot drive a new pin through the hole.  I
can see no way to deal with this short of removing the radiator, the
lower radiator brackets and the front torsion bar in order to lower
the fan shroud.

Any suggestions?







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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 21:59:33 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

Don't feel bad at all. Find a copy of the book "Gold Plated Porsche" You'll 
get a good laugh reading about the authors quest to restore a 1983 Porsche 911. 
You'll laugh when you get to the part when he spent over $70,000 to restore a 
1983 Porsche 911.

Sincerely,
Mike


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 02:21:12 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Restorable or Parts Car?

 Not for nothing John, I find it pretty sad to see any unique car with
potential get torn up for parts...especially since most who do the
parting out do a bad job and dont really know what theyre doing or
what something is worth. The worst part is alot of times they stop mid
way and scrap the whole car or try to sell it as is for a ridiculously
inflated price. 
 I know its upsetting to lose the car you were looking for, I once
drove  straight from NYC to W Virginia and back for a car with some
real potential....I didnt buy it because we couldnt see eye to eye on
what it was worth...so I went home $15000 richer,
 
if you are looking to spend in the neighborhood of $20000 you can find
really stellar cars, for $25000 i bought mine with 89 original miles,
so feel bad for the Delorean, but your day will come and for the
better...good luck

Harry Vin #2696






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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 05:27:02 -0000
From: "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Barris DeLorean Auction

Hello List,
Just to FYI the BTTF fans on this list.
George Barris is auctioning off the back to the future DeLorean used 
in the third movie. Along with other vehicles used or not used in 
films. I thought Barris built the Time Machine DeLoreans for
publicity for the Universal theme parks and not for the films? 

Regards,
Mike
vin#1113

http://www.butterfields.com/cgi-bin/public.sh/pubweb/publicSite.r?
sContinent=USA&screen=Catalogue&iSaleNo=13278






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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 22:37:18 -0400
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
Subject: Jay Sisto Please Contact Me Off-List

David:
 
Jason here...I think the guy sold the car.  I will email and see if it is still available.  He was selling it locally for $4500...would have takedn $4000.  Needed a complete interior and engine work (problems restarting when warm)  The panels were in good condition except for one.  The guy was in Ayer MA stored in his father's funeral home.  He bought the car from a guy in CA and had it shipped here.  The vin was in the 2300's
 
Also, I mentioned a while back about starting a New England Club.  Any interest in doing it with me?
 
Jason

	-----Original Message----- 
	From: toscano2_at_dml_ix.netcom.com [mailto:toscano2_at_dml_ix.netcom.com] 
	Sent: Tue 5/10/2005 5:30 AM 
	To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
	Cc: 
	Subject: [DML] Jay Sisto Please Contact Me Off-List
	
	

	*****  Moderator Note  *****
	The member profiles of DML members don't always contain enough information for us to forward this kind of request.  We will when we can, but sometimes we have to handle this through the list.
	
	Mike G  Moderator of the week
	*****
	
	(Moderator: Kindly forward this to Jay if possible, I have a new computer and lost his email address).
	
	Jay,
	Please drop me an email regarding your last message to me, I am interested in more info but lost your email address when I changed PCs.
	
	Thanks!
	
	
	
	
	To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
	moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
	
	For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
	
	To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
	Yahoo! Groups Links
	
	
	
	
	
	
	



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 01:20:59 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Corrected: Cam Wear cause (Soft Camshafts)

Through the miracles of modern technology, this post was truncated
prematurely. Should have read:

> For some reason this rumor is endemic in the DeLorean community and
> simply refuses to die (quite ironic when you consider DeLo usage
> accounts for only .8% of total PRV production). There is no 
difference
> in camshaft composition between various B27/B28 applications, nor 
to
> my knowledge between various Peugeot, Renault, and Volvo aps. The 
only
> TSB Volvo ever printed on the subject was to substitute 10W30 oil 
over
> the previous 10W40 spec (retroactive to the beginning of PRV 
usage).
> Thicker oil has a tendency to gum up camshaft/rocker arm orifices.
> Note that the rocker arm orifices are located at the camshaft 
lobes,
> not the valve stems -- probably the source of characteristic valve 
noise.
> 
> Volvo's words Re: camshaft wear (circa 1985 -- after the TSB,
> footnoted as a supplement to my particular manual):
> "Damaged (worn) rocker arms and/or camshafts may be due to one or 
more
> of the following causes:
> - Incorrect quality or grade of oil. It is important that the 
correct
> oil is used and that it is changed sufficiently often with regard 
to
> driving conditions.
> - Contaminated oil. May be caused by camshaft grindings, coolant,
> fuel, etc.
> - Insufficient oil supply to rocker arms."
> 
> That last point is especially important if timing chain tensioners 
are
> fully extended -- oil will simply flow past them back into the pan,
> never reaching the camshafts.
> 
> Consider this: If later production camshafts were so superior, why 
is
> premature wear still a concern in 1985?
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 







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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 03:09:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Removing windscreen trim

Hi everyone,

The paint on the three windscreen trim pieces of my
car has started to peel off and I wanted to remove
them so I could have them painted or maybe
powdercoated.

Just wondering what's the best way to get them off?

Looks like you have to take the seal of around the A
pillar?

Any advice/tips would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Andrew 
2883
Sydney

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 00:46:49 -0700
From: Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us>
Subject: Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak

sweetp01569 wrote:
> I just filled my car for the second time last night.  As it was 
> topping off, a couple of people walking by noticed gasoline dripping 
> from underneath, near the passenger side (I think near the corner of 
> the triangular plate).
> 
> Looks like maybe a cup or so of gas dripped on the concrete, then 
> stopped.  I took the car on a 20 minute ride, no more drips and the 
> tank stayed full per the gauge.

I had this exact problem earlier this year; Danny at DeLorean Motor Center in Garden Grove replaced the boot at the top of the tank, and it's all better now.

Cheers,
Owen




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 07:25:37 -0500
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Update/Next Question

Jeremiah
   Did you replace that plastic connector with something else or
eliminate it altogether?  Just be aware that it is actually a vacuum
delay valve to introduce a 10sec bleed-down delay under heavy
accelleration.  It allows the fuel mixture to enrich temporarily when
you mash the pedal.

Jeff 
#10544

On 5/9/05, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hey guys,
> 
> A couple months ago I asked you guys opinion on what I
> described as the car "auto enriching" itself.  Most of
> the responses I got on it was "vacuum leak".  You guys
> were dead on.  There were two spots I had leaks.  One
> was at the plastic connector (There's a single black
> hose on the back left of the engine bay, follow that
> hose and you'll get to a connector that's white on one
> side and black on the other.) on one of the hoses; the
> other - believe this or not - was the tiny rubber hose
> that goes from the idle speed motor to the cold start
> valve.  Fixed those problems, and the car is runnign
> real well again.  Thanks for the help of those who
> repsonded to me.  Appreciate it.
> 
> Now - the next one.  Car is dead, push hazard switch
> on - hazard lights respond.  Car is running, push
> hazard light switch - nothing happens....Put the left
> or right turn signal on and turn the hazard light
> switch on, BOOM ...hazard lights work perfectly.  Now
> how in the world is that?
> 
> Discover Yahoo!
> Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out!
> http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 08:32:47 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: RE: Water Pump R&R

There are excellent docs on the DMC-News site. Check out
http://dmcnews.com/techmain.htm and look under the Engine section.

With those and the workshop manual I was able to replace mine OK - it just
took me a hell of a long time . . .take pictures as you go, and for items
that are easy to mix up (like fuel lines), color code them with electrical
tape (like this: http://tinyurl.com/bbud7)

I have TONS of pictures from when I replaced mine that I am working on
getting in to a sort of a "water Pump Replacement for Dummies" that will
show the process step-by-step with pictures . . .as soon as I can find the
time to finish it!

Good luck!

Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
deepdmc
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 7:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Water Pump R&R

On the way home from work I threw an alternator belt. It looks like 
the culprit is the water pump pulley, it seems to sway a little side 
to side. My question is how involved is it to replace the water pump 
myself? Is it fairly easy just time consuming? Are there any right ups 
or how to's on the net? 

Thanks,
Justin
16579










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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 07:29:08 -0500
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak

Take the access panel underneath the spare tire out before you go back
to the gas station.   Remove the spare and watch the fuel pump boot at
the next fill-up.  Mine was shot and when the tank was filled fuel was
pouring out the top of the tank until the pressure equalized.  Has
probably happened since I own the car but since I always drove away I
was never witness to the huge puddle of gas I was leaving at the pump.

Replace the rubber boot for something liek $50 and you'll no longer be
a fireball waiting to happen.

Jeff
#10544

On 5/11/05, Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_aerodrome.us> wrote:
> sweetp01569 wrote:
> > I just filled my car for the second time last night.  As it was
> > topping off, a couple of people walking by noticed gasoline dripping
> > from underneath, near the passenger side (I think near the corner of
> > the triangular plate).
> >
> > Looks like maybe a cup or so of gas dripped on the concrete, then
> > stopped.  I took the car on a 20 minute ride, no more drips and the
> > tank stayed full per the gauge.




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 08:33:25 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Update/Next Question (LED Turn Signals)

Yes, you need to wire in a load resistor to simulate the original bulb, 
these will end up costing you about $10 each after shipping unless you find 
them local.
My extensive testing with LED's has found that it is not a good idea to use 
LED's
for the turn signals, they are not bright enough.
The lens of the running light / turn signal is designed to be a convex 
reflection
of the original bulb.
The LED, shining forward is not noticeable enough in the daylight to be safe
and useful.
LED's work great in some places like the doors, but are not good in other 
places.
- VB

>From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Update/Next Question (LED Turn Signals)
>Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 01:28:47 -0000
>
>I believe you have to put resistors in line (emulating bulb load)
>otherwise the flasher circuitry malfunctions.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > It is probably the LED lights you are using for the turn signals. I
> > heard they do not function correctly for signals.
> >
> > Mark V
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 13:00:43 -0000
From: "mike_fm2002" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Need guidance regarding gasoline leak

Thanks to all for the advice about the fuel pump boot and other 
things to check. Still haven't had a chance to take apart yet.  Hope 
to this weekend.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Take the access panel underneath the spare tire out before you go 
back
> to the gas station.   Remove the spare and watch the fuel pump 
boot at
> the next fill-up.  Mine was shot and when the tank was filled fuel 
was
> pouring out the top of the tank until the pressure equalized.  Has
> probably happened since I own the car but since I always drove 
away I
> was never witness to the huge puddle of gas I was leaving at the 
pump.
> 
> Replace the rubber boot for something liek $50 and you'll no 
longer be
> a fireball waiting to happen.
> 
> Jeff
> #10544
> 
> On 5/11/05, Owen Emry <owen_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > sweetp01569 wrote:
> > > I just filled my car for the second time last night.  As it was
> > > topping off, a couple of people walking by noticed gasoline 
dripping
> > > from underneath, near the passenger side (I think near the 
corner of
> > > the triangular plate).
> > >
> > > Looks like maybe a cup or so of gas dripped on the concrete, 
then
> > > stopped.  I took the car on a 20 minute ride, no more drips 
and the
> > > tank stayed full per the gauge.






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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 08:34:35 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Removing windscreen trim

I have seen some of these that the paint had completely come off, and it 
looked pretty good as silver metal. So if you decide not to paint, try 
giving them a polish!
-VB

>From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Removing windscreen trim
>Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 03:09:02 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>The paint on the three windscreen trim pieces of my
>car has started to peel off and I wanted to remove
>them so I could have them painted or maybe
>powdercoated.
>
>Just wondering what's the best way to get them off?
>
>Looks like you have to take the seal of around the A
>pillar?
>
>Any advice/tips would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Andrew
>2883
>Sydney
>
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>
>
>






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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 14:21:06 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft

You got it slighly out of order. Remove the fan shroud (after snapping 
off a few of the studs on the bottom of the lower grille) - Remove the 
front torsion bar, lower radiator brackets, and then the 
radiator/condenser/fan assembly all in one piece.  

You should be able to "rotate" the whole assembly around the driver-
side end so that you don't have to disconnect the freon hoses. Then 
take it apart breaking even more of those tiny screws.If you have ever 
even considered replacing the radiator, this would be a grea time to do 
it. 

Plan on removing the whole grille to spot-weld some new studs across 
the bottom. Good time to upgrade that to stainless too. 

Dave Swingle (continuing as the master of turning a $5 job into a $500 
job)


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "fgdavison" <fgdavison_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> The passenger side cooling fan has slipped off the shaft of the motor.
>  The hole in the motor shaft for the shear pin is plugged with the
> remnants of the pin and I cannot drive a new pin through the hole.  I
> can see no way to deal with this short of removing the radiator, the
> lower radiator brackets and the front torsion bar in order to lower
> the fan shroud.
> 
> Any suggestions?






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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 12:15:00 -0400
From: "fchenail" <fchenail_at_dml_cgocable.ca>
Subject: 4.2 L Chevy V6 engine in delorean

i will like to know  where the motor
was before in car or truck 
plus more info. and more picture
vin. 17061  stef
fchenail_at_dml_cgocable.ca


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 08:10:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft


Fgdavison,
 
First, it's really hard to do while on the car.  -But when I had this same thing happen, it was immediately following my radiator replacement, and I wasn't about to take it out of there again.  Try to use a pin punch (or any other tool that might fit up in there) to remove the old roll pin remnants.  I beat the hell out of the old pin and it wouldn't budge.  Sooooo.....
 
I pondered the thing for a week or so.  For the time being you can unplug the fan so it won't try to run (one fan will keep the car plenty cool if everything else is in working order, but I don't suggest this as a long term solution).  My ultimate fix was to find a small stainless steel pin that was small enough in diameter to fit through the center of the existing roll pin.  Then I found a suitable spring clip fastener from my local shop and snapped it all together.  It's worked great for thousands of miles.  Granted, you lose the functionality of the roll pin shearing if there's ever an obstruction to the fan, but who cares?  The front of the fan is protected by the radiator, and I think it would be pretty tough to get something to come into the back of the housing during everyday driving.  --Though I wouldn't suggest you go driving through any corn fields or thick brush anymore :-)
 
Anyway, with a few swear words and some busted knuckles, you can fix it.
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063
 
 

fgdavison <fgdavison_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
The passenger side cooling fan has slipped off the shaft of the motor.
The hole in the motor shaft for the shear pin is plugged with the
remnants of the pin and I cannot drive a new pin through the hole. I
can see no way to deal with this short of removing the radiator, the
lower radiator brackets and the front torsion bar in order to lower
the fan shroud.

Any suggestions?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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