From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2617
Date: Thursday, May 12, 2005 8:23 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DMC (Texas) 2005 Open House Event - Registration Closing...
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

2. Re: Cracked Windshield
From: Sam Hill <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Removing windscreen trim
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. RE: Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_nucleus.com>

5. Re: Clutch repair
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. vent seals
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

7. Overheating?
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Tires
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

10. Re: Cracked Windshield
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Water Pump R&R
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Florida's Govenor Bush in my DeLorean
From: "Tony" <DMCPROTO1_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

15. Re: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

16. Re: Overheating?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Raffle car prospect #1
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

18. RE: DeLorean Needed for Chicago Wedding
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

19. Re: Overheating?
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

20. BROKEN bolts!!!
From: "ashtonorlan" <ashtonorlan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Overheating?
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

22. Re: Removing windscreen trim
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

23. RE: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

24. Re: Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "BTTF.com" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>

25. Re: Re: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 14:53:57 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: DMC (Texas) 2005 Open House Event - Registration Closing...

If you have not yet registered for the DMC (Texas0 2005 Open House
Event, please do so immediately by calling 800/872-3621 or online at
http://www.delorean.com - we cap attendance at 150 persons to ensure
everyone has an enjoyable experience, and we're at more than 140 today.
I expect the 150 number to be reached late this week or early next.

In addition to Bill Collins (first Chief Engineer of DMC) and the 
original DeLorean prototype, we're pleased to have Dixon Hollinshead, 
the man responsible for the construction of the factory in Belfast as 
our guest speaker for this event. I'm also close to adding one more very 
special guest for Saturday night, a former DMC employee since the 
beginning who will share some never before heard insights and 
experiences of his days at DMC.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------






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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 12:52:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sam Hill <theborderisopen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cracked Windshield

Mine looks the same way :(

It happened directly after I had jacked up the car in
the rear the "proper" way, and when I slowly brought
it back down, I noticed the crack.

So I support the flexing diagnosis.



--- Paul Gress <pgress_at_dml_optonline.net> wrote:
> Hank wrote:
> 
> >On 4/25/05, Mike Walsh <mike_at_dml_mikewalsh.net> wrote:
> >  
> >
> >>Here is a pic of the cracked windshield
> >>http://www.oneskydojo.com/delorean/windsh.JPG
> >>    
> >>
> >
> >Amazing - my windshield just cracked AGAIN (less
> then two years from
> >the last new one), and it looks exactly the same:
> >
>
[moderator snip]




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 21:13:38 -0000
From: "lakelanier20" <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Removing windscreen trim

Hi Andrew, 
    Your post is perfectly timed, as I JUST completed that project on 
my car.  I removed the trim and had the 3 pieces powdercoated.  
I took plenty of pictures, so if you need any just let me know.
Yes, you basically remove the rubber outer-weatherstrip going along 
the front part of the roof and down the A-pillar.  This reveals 6 
screws, 3 on the A-pillar, 3 at the roof.  Scrape some of the glue 
away if they are in the way of the screw heads.  Removed those 
screws, and the trim should come right off.  (the top piece 
is "hooked" in, so lift it carefully at the back -- where it meets 
the roof -- and jiggle it loose.  Be careful not to bend it).  
I found that the weatherstrip adhesive used to hold on the rubber was 
SOOOOOO difficult to remove that I think it's worth buying those 2 
new weatherstrip pieces.  They are $25 each from DMCH, but if you are 
in Australia, maybe it's worth it for you to remove the old glue.  
It's just rather difficult.  
For me, I found that for all the trouble, it was worth powdercoating 
the pieces instead of painting them.  The powdercoating should last 
forever, and (fingers-crossed) I should never have to remove the trim 
again.  Many of the threads in the A-pillar are rather rusty, so be 
careful when tightening the screws back in.  (I stripped one of them -
luckily it wasn't critical).
My local powdercoater sprays 50% gloss black 3 times per week, so it 
was very cost-effective to use that color, as he can just "slip it in 
the line."  I was concerned it would be too glossy, but it's not.  It 
looks wonderful!  
Let me know if you have any more questions, I'll be glad to give you 
more info.

-Derek L
VIN 5302





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> 
> The paint on the three windscreen trim pieces of my
> car has started to peel off and I wanted to remove
> them so I could have them painted or maybe
> powdercoated.
> 
> Just wondering what's the best way to get them off?
> 
> Looks like you have to take the seal of around the A
> pillar?
> 
> Any advice/tips would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Andrew 
> 2883
> Sydney
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com






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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 14:59:28 -0600
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_nucleus.com>
Subject: RE: Barris DeLorean Auction

George Barris has nothing to do with the building of any DeLorean Time
Machines for Universal Studios.  These cars were all independently built by
him for his own personal gain.

Barris continues to skew the truth, and the media buys into it.  Barris is
smart, and has never said that he built the actual DeLorean Time Machine(s)
for the movies, but the way most articles/interviews make it look as if he
did.




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Mike
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 11:27 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Barris DeLorean Auction

Hello List,
Just to FYI the BTTF fans on this list.
George Barris is auctioning off the back to the future DeLorean used 
in the third movie. Along with other vehicles used or not used in 
films. I thought Barris built the Time Machine DeLoreans for
publicity for the Universal theme parks and not for the films? 

Regards,
Mike
vin#1113

http://www.butterfields.com/cgi-bin/public.sh/pubweb/publicSite.r?
sContinent=USA&screen=Catalogue&iSaleNo=13278






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links



 








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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 21:23:59 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch repair

Thanks for all the tid-bits.  Sounds like "fun". And less greasy than the 
Chevy was.  At least I'm in no rush. Spent a month on the Chevy, ~ three 
months on the DMC water pump- took my time.   Grab a wrench and I'm off..... 
        Drive Stainless  (later)    Robert  VIN 6924

From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Clutch repair
Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 03:15:04 -0000

Read me like a book...

A proper transmission jack is almost a necessity. I also recommend
jacking up the car level rather than rear end high. With everything at
an angle, and the transmission teetering on a floor jack, I never
could get the bellhousing flush with the block by muscle power alone.
Came close enough to insert some bolts to pull them together, but no
matter how hard I tried to turn them in equal micro increments, the
splines on the input shaft bound inside the clutch disc. Twice. Crazy
thing is: you absolutely can not feel that while it's happening. Feels
like the transmission is re-mating smooth as silk. But it isn't.....





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 16:54:16 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: vent seals

An old customer called today from Chicago and wanted "those little 
rubber squishy things that go between the door and the dash where the 
cold air goes through."  Part of my job is translation of talk like that 
and right away, I knew he meant the vent adaptors.  He couldn't find 
them on the door or the dash blowup in the parts book.  Another demand 
of my position is to be able to find stuff in the parts book.  My 
constant advice to customers who call, baffled by the factory parts 
manual is to "Think like an Irishman.  They wrote it."  I knew that this 
item was in the part of Section 7, Heating and A/C, that shows the air 
ducting.  Sure enough, on page 7-1-2 is item 35, part number 105215, 
descriptively named "door adaptor".  Here it is:
http://www.usadmc.com/dmcstore/ViewPart.asp?PID=1323&Qty=1&ShowCart=true

The lesson is not so much to think in Gaelic, but consider where else 
the part might be shown if your first guess proves fruitless.  One hint: 
If it's got a wire on or near it, it's probably in the electrical section.

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:58:19 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Overheating?

Quick question for the group.  I am not sure if it's normal or not, 
as I have only taken the car for a few rides, and my first real 
drive on the highway.  While driving on the highway, my temp gauge 
stayed pretty much on the horizontal at 240 degrees, in the white.  
When I turned the AC on, the needle crept up slowly another 1/4 up 
the dial, to about 240, starting into the red, and pretty much 
stayed there.  I shut off the AC, and the temp slowly dropped back 
to normal.  When I got home, I could smell the heat from the engine, 
and wasn't thrilled about it.  Is this normal when AC is operated? 
It was about 70 degrees outside, but the car seems to get warm 
sitting in the sun all day at work, and wanted to cool the interior 
a little.

The radiator fans do work, as I witnessed them operating fine while 
idle in my driveway.  Does the AC prevent them from working 
properly, or is it just too much strain on the engine? I don't have 
any of the Zilla's; something I should probably get soon, including 
FanZilla.  Is this recommended?

Thanks,

Paul






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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 00:26:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft

You really do have to pull the radiator out to get the shroud with the
fan motors out. It is a little easier if you pull the sway bar out but
not that much so I don't recomend it. When you do get the radiator out
you will notice it will be green by the end tanks with some staining
and corrosion. I do not recomend reusing a 24 year old radiator in
that condition. The end tanks are plastic and they get brittle with
age and heat. The crimps holding them onto the core also loosen up and
leak. The neck on the left with the dummy cap splits. Your best bet if
you are taking all this apart is to replace the radiator with a brass,
3 row and put new brushes into the fan motors. Of course you should
also replace all the hoses and coolant. Be gentle with the condensor
core, you do not have to disconnect the hoses to it, but you will have
to replace the broken studs (the ones you WILL break taking everything
apart).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Oh, boy. How could I forget about that plastic fan shroud. Yeah, that
> thing has to go, and it isn't fun. I didn't break any of my studs,
> though. ;-)
> 
> I still hold to my "you don't have to remove the radiator" line. Like
> 






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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 19:16:09 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

There has been A LOT of discussion about of tires over the years. Even
a poll recently.
You need a better search. Michelin Pilot xgt's seem to be the preferred tire.
No problems, really with mismatched since they already are.

On 5/10/05, Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> I've searched the archives and to my suprise I couldn't find anything of substance on this.    I need 2 new back tires.  I'm currently running Yoko AVS Intermediates.  The fronts are in great shape, but the backs will not pass inspection due to wear.
> 
> I'm pondering the BF Goodrich T/A Radial or the Dunlop GT qualifier.   I don't have the cash right now to do all four so please don't say they will be mis-matched.....I know and it pains me that the fronts are in such good shape.
> 
> If you have these tires or have experience using both I would like to know your impressions.
> 
> If anyone is interested in a pair of good used front AVS tires let me know.  I can send you a pic showing tread depth.  I could then spring for a set of fronts as well.
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Discover Yahoo!
>  Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it out!
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
>




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 00:37:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cracked Windshield

This crack is from the small wire clip that is supposed to keep the
windshield from sliding down. It must have chipped the glass. They are
origionaly coated with a thick coating of paint to keep the metal from
touching the glass. The next time you replace the glass either use a
piece of plastic to separate it from the glass or dip the wire in
Plasticote so the metal can't touch and rub against the glass. I have
also seen where the glass slips over the clip and then damages the
glass. When replacing the glass you need to make sure the clip is bent
properly and is holding the glass correctly. The clip just sticks into
2 holes in the fiberglass when the windshield is out. Your glass
installer should know what to do. There are 2 of them, one on each
side. This crack is from an improper installation. You should try to
get the shop to be responsable for it and give you a discount on the
labor to replace it, that is if you even trust them to do it again (I
would not, I would find another shop). YOu may not have to replace the
glass. I have had glass repaired. It can be done, not every time but
maybe this one can.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Hank <heskin_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> On 4/25/05, Mike Walsh <mike_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > Here is a pic of the cracked windshield
> > http://www.oneskydojo.com/delorean/windsh.JPG
> 
> Amazing - my windshield just cracked AGAIN (less then two years from
> the last new one), and it looks exactly the same:
> 
> http://www.eskin.net/photos/windshield/thumb/600142-4251_IMG.JPG
> 
> My insurance company isn't going to be too happy about this.
> 
> -Hank






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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 00:49:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Water Pump R&R

This is a pretty big job. Especially if you turn it into a "Dave
Swingle" type job. Just kidding Dave. It is not just a water pump. It
is a complete tune-up and cooling system service usually with one to 
several broken bolts to drill out. Most Deloreans are still running on
the origional seals, spark plugs, ignition wires, cap, rotor, and
hoses so "while you are there" you SHOULD replace EVERYTHING. This job
is not for the "faint of heart". You should have -some- automotive
experience if you are thinking of attempting this. Ask yourself "What
am I going to do if I break a bolt off?" If you are not capable of
drilling out a broken bolt then this is not a job for a novice or a
first-timer. Look up the price of a "Master cooling system kit" and a
tune-up kit to get some idea of what you are in for. There are no
short cuts or easy ways to just replace the water pump. You have to
basically pull everything off the top of the motor. There are hoses
behind the water pump that can't be reached any other way.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "deepdmc" <deepdmc12_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> On the way home from work I threw an alternator belt. It looks like 
> the culprit is the water pump pulley, it seems to sway a little side 
> to side. My question is how involved is it to replace the water pump 
> myself? Is it fairly easy just time consuming? Are there any right ups 
> or how to's on the net? 
> 
> Thanks,
> Justin
> 16579






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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 01:42:08 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.

content22207 wrote:

> Main bearings are
>reportedly different. I do believe the main block castings are
>identical, however (in fact are identical to B27).
>
That's actually a contradiction Bill because the journal shells are set 
into the block.

FYI the crankpins are different between odd and even fire, but the main 
journals are all the same.

The block castings are only different in terms of liner seat diameter 
otherwise they are all identical (as far as I've seen to date). The B27 
I assume is the 2664cc engine and has 88mm pistons. There are various 
capacities set by stroke, but all PRV engines have either 88, 91 or 93mm 
pistons. Compresion is set by piston crown and conrods are all identical 
on even fire, and all identical on odd-fire engines. All PRV conrods are 
forged too - bet ya didn't know that :-) There're all sorts of 
possibilities for hybrid engines. I'm building one at the moment.

Martin




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 01:32:43 -0000
From: "Tony" <DMCPROTO1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Florida's Govenor Bush in my DeLorean

Hi group,
 I was contacted by the Charlotte County tourism board to help out with their 
annual luncheon. This year was a Back To The Future theme. The keynote 
speaker was Florida's Govenor Jeb Bush. He was receptive to the car and 
wanted to check it out. I filled him in on the car and took a few pictures.
Check them out in the photo section under "Govenor Bush" 

Tony Ierardi
DMC (Florida)






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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 03:08:23 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.

Volvo newsgroups describe B280 as having "low friction" bearing
refinements. Don't get me to lying -- only know what I read.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> content22207 wrote:
> 
> > Main bearings are
> >reportedly different. I do believe the main block castings are
> >identical, however (in fact are identical to B27).
> >
> That's actually a contradiction Bill because the journal shells are set 
> into the block.
> 
> FYI the crankpins are different between odd and even fire, but the main 
> journals are all the same.
> 
> The block castings are only different in terms of liner seat diameter 
> otherwise they are all identical (as far as I've seen to date). The B27 
> I assume is the 2664cc engine and has 88mm pistons. There are various 
> capacities set by stroke, but all PRV engines have either 88, 91 or
93mm 
> pistons. Compresion is set by piston crown and conrods are all
identical 
> on even fire, and all identical on odd-fire engines. All PRV conrods
are 
> forged too - bet ya didn't know that :-) There're all sorts of 
> possibilities for hybrid engines. I'm building one at the moment.
> 
> Martin






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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 03:45:43 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)

Hey guys, I was testing out a used ECU I just got for the car. When I
turn the ignition on-the idle motor stays silent for about 5
seconds-then slowly comes to a strong hum. And upon inspection, the
orifice will stay open about 3/4 of the way whether the micro switch
is engaged or not, it will not change position no matter what...I'm
still confident that the motor I'm using is still good since a quick
touch of voltage and it opens/closes fully. I switched the inline
diode and it didn't seem to make any difference. So...,Is this second
ECU I'm using also bad, or have I overlooked something else? Hopefully
I can get this car back to idling well! Thanks for any help!-----Dani
B. #5003






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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 03:13:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Overheating?

First thing I would do is check the engine temp with an infa-red temp
gauge or a thermometer to see if the temp gauge in the car is
accurate. I would also check the fan belt to see if it is slipping,
the strength of the coolant, pressure test and bleed. If the coolant
is not a nice green or if it is acidic it should be changed. Make sure
both fans are running and they are blowing front-to-rear. Nothing
should be blocking the inlet grill to the radiator like a license
plate. The fans should come on at or a little above the white mark in
between 100 and 220 with the A/C off. If they do not replace the
otterstadt switch. The fans should also come on whenever the A/C
compressor is running. The compressor will cycle and so should the
fans. This is assuming the A/C is working. This is also assuming the
thermostadt is working too. It is rare but they do get stuck. Easy to
test. Remove it and stick it in a pot of water on the stove. Heat and
observe. It is not good to run at 240. That is rather hot and will be
hard on the motor. You do not have to have a Fanzilla but you should
remove the blue fan fail relay and at least install the bypass. You
should also have the uprated circuit breakers for the cooling fans and
the heater fan.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Quick question for the group.  I am not sure if it's normal or not, 
> as I have only taken the car for a few rides, and my first real 
> drive on the highway.  While driving on the highway, my temp gauge 
> stayed pretty much on the horizontal at 240 degrees, in the white.  
> When I turned the AC on, the needle crept up slowly another 1/4 up 
> the dial, to about 240, starting into the red, and pretty much 
> 
> Paul






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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:57:29 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Raffle car prospect #1

Well the car that I plan to take to the Chicago Tech Session this week will  
be ready to roll with the rest of them.  We fired it up again tonight and  
found a few of the problems, mainly loose connections and such and it runs  nice
I actually drove it home from my warehouse so it now has 15 miles to its  
credit since the overhaul.  I did not expect to get it to run until the  tech 
session but it runs better than I had hoped and many little items are now  fixes.
 
The oil pressure gauge to my surprise works fine.
 
So we will bring it up to the tech session and start on the cosmetics and  
stereo.
 
MUCH MUCH to my surprise the air conditioner works fine.
 
Brakes are stiff but brake ok 
 
Auto tranny works very well and 
 
I am completely surprised at how smooth the steering is.  Good  rack
 
All the lights except the front right turn signal light work fine
 
So Saturday we can work on the doors, radio, and locks ( i do not have a  
lock module in it yet so that I don't know if the locks work.
 
And we can work on the alternator gauge other than the I plan to drive it  
and make it better as time goes on for the raffle.
 
Great car.
 
I have a 5 speed that I will also get running and one of the two will  become 
the raffle car.
 
Ken
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 21:55:29 -0700
From: "Gary Hull" <Specialty_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: DeLorean Needed for Chicago Wedding

I've received a couple of requests for more information about this wedding,
so here goes. The wedding is this August in the South side of Chicago
(around 95th street and 294). 

Christine understands that owners may be unwilling to rent out their D, so
even if you would only be willing to drive the groom to the wedding, please
contact her.

As for any concerns about her email address, Christine has assured me that
the "crazy animal" can be tamed (especially if her fiancÚ can arrive at the
wedding in a DeLorean :)

For any more information, please contact Christine at
crazy_animal20(at)yahoo.com

Gary
IN2TIME





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:50:37 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Overheating?

Hello.. I picked up my Delorean on Tuesday and drove towards Kissimmie, FL  
from Homossasa, Fl.  About half an hour into the drive the AC quit and I  
noticed smoke coming from the engine compartment.  The AC Compressor had  frozen up 
and the belt wassmoking.  We poured water on it and were able to  free up the 
compressor pully and disconect the AC.  I then drove to Orlando  with out AC. 
 The car ran fine until we hit stop and go.  The engine  who was running so 
nicely started to heat up and then it would cool down.   As I sat at a traffic 
light, waiting on a change of light to pull into our hotel  and I watched the 
needle rise up.   As I drove into the  parking lot I watched coolant come out 
from the stainless steel  tank over flow pipe.  I turned off the engine and 
coasted to a spot  and parked it.  I then lifted the engine cover to allow all 
to cool  down.  Much latter I added water and circulated the water to remove 
any  bubbles.  This morning I drove it to a repair shop to get it worked on..  
All Car Shop.  They advised me that they have worked on Deloreans before  and 
would let me know what was wrong.   Don from California was very  helpful and 
has offered his advice over the phone to them.  Any suggestions  would be 
helpful at this point.
 
Roy   0893


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 05:53:39 -0000
From: "ashtonorlan" <ashtonorlan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: BROKEN bolts!!!

I am in the process of "while im in there" and I have 2 broken bolts 
with about a quarter inch of metal still out. (1) Back left of the 
intake manifold (1 of 4) and (2)the very bottom of the three bolts for 
the water pump, the one at the six o'clock position(NO IDEA!!) ANY, 
and I mean ANY help with this is appreciated.

Brian D
05905






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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 01:09:14 -0500
From: "Jake Kamphoefner" <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Overheating?


Hi Paul,

Really, your car should never run that hot.  Even when I was running my 
original radiator (I've since replaced it with the 3 core brass one for good 
measure) I never had it get that hot.  The first white line without numbers 
is your operating temperature mark, and really the car should never get 
*much* hotter than that.  In slow traffic or while idling, it's normal for 
the temp to reach above that mark just slightly, and only long enough for 
the radiator fans to turn on.  On the highway, the fans should never run 
unless your A/C compressor is cycling.

So what's the problem?  Fortunately, it's most likely just air in the system 
and/or a low coolant level..  Check the level, bleed the air out from the 
waterpump or install a self-bleeder and you're all set.  If that doesn't fix 
the problem, it's likely something much larger such as a restriction in the 
radiator from old stop-leak additive, or a faulty radiator.  We have a club 
member here in St. Louis whose radiator fins were falling apart and not 
offering much (if any) heat dispersion.  It wasn't obvious by sight, so it 
took a while to diagnose.  For a while, we couldn't figure out why the hell 
it was running so hot! :-)

If your problem is the former, you'll have it fixed in 5 minutes.  If it's 
the latter, you're looking at a complete cooling system overhaul, which 
needs to be done sooner than later anyway if it hasn't already.  In any 
case, don't keep driving it that way.  If any of the symptoms are 
degenerative, you'll soon be hauling around a nice, giant chunk of melted 
aluminum in your engine compartment!

Jake Kamphoefner
1063 --> "Cool" in more ways than one....

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 6:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Overheating?


> Quick question for the group.  I am not sure if it's normal or not,
> as I have only taken the car for a few rides, and my first real
> drive on the highway.  While driving on the highway, my temp gauge
> stayed pretty much on the horizontal at 240 degrees, in the white.
> When I turned the AC on, the needle crept up slowly another 1/4 up
> the dial, to about 240, starting into the red, and pretty much
> stayed there.  I shut off the AC, and the temp slowly dropped back
> to normal.  When I got home, I could smell the heat from the engine,
> and wasn't thrilled about it.  Is this normal when AC is operated?
> It was about 70 degrees outside, but the car seems to get warm
> sitting in the sun all day at work, and wanted to cool the interior
> a little.
>
> The radiator fans do work, as I witnessed them operating fine while
> idle in my driveway.  Does the AC prevent them from working
> properly, or is it just too much strain on the engine? I don't have
> any of the Zilla's; something I should probably get soon, including
> FanZilla.  Is this recommended?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
> 




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 08:59:36 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Removing windscreen trim

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I have seen some of these that the paint had completely come off,
and it 
> looked pretty good as silver metal. So if you decide not to paint, try 
> giving them a polish!
> -VB


As a matter of fact, that's exactly what i did.  I used fine-grit
sandpaper to "regrain" them in the same direction as the rest of the
car and am quite impressed with the way it looks.  I always wondered
why these things were painted in the first place anyway. 

Richard Rowe
Vin 5853 






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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:04:10 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft

Actually you can fix a sheared fan roll-pin without removing anything...I
did it many times in my younger days!

1. Push the loose fan blade against the radiator and remove the broken pin
from the shaft with a pin-punch.

2. Install a 3/32 x 3/4" roll-pin using a medium size pair of water pump
(Channel-Lock) pliers. This takes a bit of skill and a lot of patience.

3. Slide a 5mm (preferably curved) horseshoe clip into the retaining slot at
the end of the shaft. Your fingers and a small blunt rod for leverage work
best for this. This is even more fun because you're working blind at this
point! 

4. Smear a dab of urethane or silicone onto the clip and fan blade to lock
it in place and you have a permanent repair. My personal best for all this
was approximately 15 minutes but armed with this knowledge I'm sure on of
the young sprouts reading this can break that record. Go for it!

Rob Grady 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
fgdavison
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 9:14 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft

The passenger side cooling fan has slipped off the shaft of the motor.
 The hole in the motor shaft for the shear pin is plugged with the
remnants of the pin and I cannot drive a new pin through the hole.  I
can see no way to deal with this short of removing the radiator, the
lower radiator brackets and the front torsion bar in order to lower
the fan shroud.

Any suggestions?







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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 11:31:02 -0000
From: "BTTF.com" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>
Subject: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction

Bob Gale went on record at PF stating "George Barris had nothing to do 
with the making of the Back to the Future DeLoreans", to which the 
crowd erupted in applause.

Regardless, the very auction itself is suspicious because the photo 
they're using for the auction is of a BTTF1 car, and a studio photo 
taken in 1985 at that:

http://www.bonhams.com/cgi-bin/public.sh/pubweb/publicSite.r?
sContinent=USA&screen=lotdetailsNoFlash&iSaleItemNo=2492156&iSaleNo=1327
8&sServer=http://images2.bonhams.com/&sPath=2005-04/15/7055101-11-1.jpg

If he truly has one of the screenused cars from BTTF3, it's in such 
pathetic shape that it's no wonder they're not willing to photograph it 
in its current state.  But if it's the car he's been hawking all week 
on "Good Morning America", etc., it's the same car he independently 
built years after the films were made with the unauthentic "dryer vent" 
tubes sticking out all over the back of it.

Stephen Clark,
BTTF.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mquinto_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Hello List,
> Just to FYI the BTTF fans on this list.
> George Barris is auctioning off the back to the future DeLorean used 
> in the third movie. Along with other vehicles used or not used in 
> films. I thought Barris built the Time Machine DeLoreans for
> publicity for the Universal theme parks and not for the films? 
> 
> Regards,
> Mike
> vin#1113
> 
> http://www.butterfields.com/cgi-bin/public.sh/pubweb/publicSite.r?
> sContinent=USA&screen=Catalogue&iSaleNo=13278






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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 06:40:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Shepherd <chrisau79_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Now idle motor problem (was idle problem)

Try running the engine without the ECU. Just unplug it and start the car. Mine idles fine without it and wouldn't with it. That's how I determined that it was no good. The new one I got works well.
 
Chris
6301

stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:
Hey guys, I was testing out a used ECU I just got for the car. When I
turn the ignition on-the idle motor stays silent for about 5
seconds-then slowly comes to a strong hum. And upon inspection, the
orifice will stay open about 3/4 of the way whether the micro switch
is engaged or not, it will not change position no matter what...I'm
still confident that the motor I'm using is still good since a quick
touch of voltage and it opens/closes fully. I switched the inline
diode and it didn't seem to make any difference. So...,Is this second
ECU I'm using also bad, or have I overlooked something else? Hopefully
I can get this car back to idling well! Thanks for any help!-----Dani
B. #5003






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