From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2618
Date: Thursday, May 12, 2005 3:08 PM

There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Overheating?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: BROKEN bolts!!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Cracked Windshield
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. Re: The Door Strut Experiment
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

5. RE: Overheating?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. RE: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: Overheating?
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Odd electrical Behavior (go figure)
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

10. Re: The Door Strut Experiment
From: Peter Cameron <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>

11. Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Cracked Windshield
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

13. Re: Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

14. RE: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>

15. RE: Odd electrical Behavior (go figure)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. RE: BROKEN bolts!!!
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft
From: "fgdavison" <fgdavison_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Re: Tires
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. RE: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_nucleus.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 13:32:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Overheating?

Refer to message #52058. Your cooling fnas are probably not running.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, lordshill_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Hello.. I picked up my Delorean on Tuesday and drove towards
Kissimmie, FL  
> from Homossasa, Fl.  About half an hour into the drive the AC quit
and I  
> noticed smoke coming from the engine compartment.  The AC Compressor
had  frozen up 
> and the belt wassmoking.  We poured water on it and were able to 
free up the 
> compressor pully and disconect the AC.  I then drove to Orlando 
with out AC. 
>  The car ran fine until we hit stop and go.  The engine  who was
running so 
> nicely started to heat up and then it would cool down.   As I sat at
a traffic 
> light, waiting on a change of light to pull into our hotel  and I
watched the 
> needle rise up.   As I drove into the  parking lot I watched coolant
come out 
> from the stainless steel  tank over flow pipe.  I turned off the
engine and 
> coasted to a spot  and parked it.  I then lifted the engine cover to
allow all 
> to cool  down.  Much latter I added water and circulated the water
to remove 
> any  bubbles.  This morning I drove it to a repair shop to get it
worked on..  
> All Car Shop.  They advised me that they have worked on Deloreans
before  and 
> would let me know what was wrong.   Don from California was very 
helpful and 
> has offered his advice over the phone to them.  Any suggestions 
would be 
> helpful at this point.
>  
> Roy   0893
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 13:38:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: BROKEN bolts!!!

If you don't know what to do your really are in trouble. The general
procedure is usually to drill them out. If you could turn them out
they would not have broken off. You carefully and EXACTLY drill down
the center of the bolt with varying and increasing drills till you get
to the correct size so you can retap the hole. In many cases you will
have to go oversize and use a thead insert. The whole process is
tricky because it is difficult to stay centered on the bolt. The drill
wants to get off-center and go into the softer aluminum. If you are
not comfortable with this kind of work you are best advised to get a
friend or hire someone that can do this. The problems of going
off-center or breaking a tap or a drill are much worse than the broken
bolt.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ashtonorlan" <ashtonorlan_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I am in the process of "while im in there" and I have 2 broken bolts 
> with about a quarter inch of metal still out. (1) Back left of the 
> intake manifold (1 of 4) and (2)the very bottom of the three bolts for 
> the water pump, the one at the six o'clock position(NO IDEA!!) ANY, 
> and I mean ANY help with this is appreciated.
> 
> Brian D
> 05905






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:49:11 -0400
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cracked Windshield

On 5/11/05, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> This crack is from an improper installation. You should try to
> get the shop to be responsable for it and give you a discount on the
> labor to replace it, that is if you even trust them to do it again (I
> would not, I would find another shop). 

My "shop" was Rob Grady, I think he knows what he's doing -- and of
course, I'm going back to have it replaced.  There's no shop around
here (Boston) that I would trust to do it correctly.

And I haven't jacked my car in any way causing any torsion, flex, or stress.

-Hank




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 10:01:00 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: The Door Strut Experiment

All,
I just had an opportunity to install the Grady struts. My intention was to
take a few measurements to set a base- line for the test.    After I set my
torsion bars to the proper "Hang" point, (without struts, about 20 inches
from sill to door.) I installed the Grady lifts and let them go with just an
unlatching of the door and no other release assistance. The Grady struts
raised the doors with such force that the car rocked from side to side
several times! I actually had to check the mounts to see if they had been
damaged. I re-adjusted until the door's torsion bars without struts were set
to a point where they were so slack that they hung with only one inch
between the sill and the bottom of the door (Almost closed). I let them fly
and they still flew open with impressive force far greater than I would
recommend. I observed no "braking action" or deceleration whatsoever. They
landed hard. Closing them took considerably more force than I recall ever
using. In addition, I also have the extra weight of the door launcher
solenoids which is about an 2 extra pounds worth of components which adds
even more burden when you consider their mounting position relative to the
cantilever of the door. I would assume that proper torsion adjustment
compensates for the additional burden but not when they are that slack. I am
afraid to even try to use the launchers because they'll hit so hard I think
they'll crack the roof panel if launched simultaneously. Hearing all the
"they barely lift my door stories" I wasn't expecting this at all. These are
VERY powerful struts. The most surprising aspect was this first round was
observed at 68 degrees during the day and again at 39 degrees at night with
no discernable change. My old struts worked OK during the day with the sun
beating on it but were nearly worthless below 50 degrees.  I believe I may
have to re-think the parameters of this test a bit. Stay tuned...
Rustproof
Vin 1559
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shannon Yocom" <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: The Door Strut Experiment


> Rustproof,
> Can I get a copy of your uniform test specifications? I currently have
no-name
> struts on my car that are going to be replaced in a few days with new
Grady
> struts. I will be adjusting my tortion bars for the new struts and since I
> replaced the heavy solenoids with Toby's lighter actuators. I'm just
waiting for
> a good 70 to 80 degree day to do the adjusting.
>
> Shannon Y
> 16506
>
> --------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 15:32:35 -0400
>    From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
> Subject: The Door Strut Experiment
>
> Everyone,
> OK, since I started this thread, I intend to finish it once and for all.
Since PJ
>
> Grady has been getting most of the heat (and bad press) and since he
guarantees
> his struts if not 100% satisfied, I am willing to bite the bullet in the
name of
> science and I have just ordered a set from him for some $79.00 plus
shipping. I
> will test them and evaluate them for all to see as I will post the result
as well
>
> as the conditions and parameters of the testing right here on the DML. (I
own an
> R&D company in New England and I think that makes me uniquely qualified) I
also
> have nothing better to do as my D is completely restored and now I'm just
> playing.
> If they are in fact unsatisfactory, I'll go to the next vendor until I get
a
> "good" set. (The evaluation may take some time but it will be worth it)
This
> will be
> of course a single random sample test but since this isn't getting
government
> funding, I'm not going to get ten samples from each vendor for a
cross-sectional
> average or double-blind study. (Sorry Marc, but I have a limited budget
for this
> sort of thing and we know your admirable position on VERY accurate
information!
> Please forgive me.) After the test, I think the vendor should have an
opportunity
> for
> rebuttal and comment. If anyone else is in need of struts, they are more t
han
> welcome to participate using another vendor or perhaps the same vendor to
confirm
>
> the veracity of my results. It will at least expedite the test series.
(You must
> have brand new, unused struts, properly adjusted torsion bars, a
thermometer, a
> tape measure, a keen eye and accurate information about your doors such as
added
> weight, ie; door launchers, window modifications or other goodies that add
to or
> subtract from the normal burden on the door to participate) Contact me if
you are
>
> willing to help and with the name of the vendor you wish to test. I will
send you
> a
> uniform test specification. Testing suggestions are welcome. Hey, it might
even
> be fun. Stay tuned....
> Rustproof
> Vin 1559
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Mail
> Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
> http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
>
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:20:09 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Overheating?

Roy, Call me if I can help. Most of the time the thermostat will that type
of over heating providing the radiator isn't stopped up and the fans are
coming on and working ok.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Dallas, Texas



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 9:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Overheating?


Hello.. I picked up my Delorean on Tuesday and drove towards Kissimmie, FL
from Homossasa, Fl.  About half an hour into the drive the AC quit and I
noticed smoke coming from the engine compartment.  The AC Compressor had
frozen up
and the belt wassmoking.  We poured water on it and were able to  free up
the
compressor pully and disconect the AC.  I then drove to Orlando  with out
AC.
 The car ran fine until we hit stop and go.  The engine  who was running so
nicely started to heat up and then it would cool down.   As I sat at a
traffic
light, waiting on a change of light to pull into our hotel  and I watched
the
needle rise up.   As I drove into the  parking lot I watched coolant come
out
from the stainless steel  tank over flow pipe.  I turned off the engine and
coasted to a spot  and parked it.  I then lifted the engine cover to allow
all
to cool  down.  Much latter I added water and circulated the water to remove
any  bubbles.  This morning I drove it to a repair shop to get it worked
on..
All Car Shop.  They advised me that they have worked on Deloreans before
and
would let me know what was wrong.   Don from California was very  helpful
and
has offered his advice over the phone to them.  Any suggestions  would be
helpful at this point.

Roy   0893


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:33:11 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction

The only screen used BTTF3 cars that I have seen, are the one that was hit 
by the train and is not re-assembled and hanging upside down in a restaurant 
(I think Planet Hollywood in Hawaii?)
The other is the one that was converted with the Volkswagen and red wheels 
which I have seen photos of and it is hammered.
The only other part3 car would be the one in the cave with the rotted 
wheels.
I assume that this was a left over from Part2, and the two movies were made 
consecutively
so it's all the same I guess.

The main thing is that the actual car being sold is not being pictured, and 
maybe George Barris purchased this car and is now selling it, but if it is 
one he built it is not an original screen used car.

If anyone out there knows this, it's you Stephen!
-Videobob

>From: "BTTF.com" <stephen_at_dml_bttf.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: Barris DeLorean Auction
>Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 11:31:02 -0000
>
>Bob Gale went on record at PF stating "George Barris had nothing to do
>with the making of the Back to the Future DeLoreans", to which the
>crowd erupted in applause.
>
>Regardless, the very auction itself is suspicious because the photo
>they're using for the auction is of a BTTF1 car, and a studio photo
>taken in 1985 at that:
>
>http://www.bonhams.com/cgi-bin/public.sh/pubweb/publicSite.r?
>sContinent=USA&screen=lotdetailsNoFlash&iSaleItemNo=2492156&iSaleNo=1327
>8&sServer=http://images2.bonhams.com/&sPath=2005-04/15/7055101-11-1.jpg
>
>If he truly has one of the screenused cars from BTTF3, it's in such
>pathetic shape that it's no wonder they're not willing to photograph it
>in its current state.  But if it's the car he's been hawking all week
>on "Good Morning America", etc., it's the same car he independently
>built years after the films were made with the unauthentic "dryer vent"
>tubes sticking out all over the back of it.
>
>Stephen Clark,
>BTTF.com
>
[moderator snip]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:05:29 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft

> You really do have to pull the radiator out to get the shroud with the
> fan motors out. 

David -- With all due respect, this is incorrect. I just did it a few
months ago, replacing the entire fan assembly with John Hervey's
setup, and I did not remove the radiator. You have to remove the
radiator brackets and push it out of the way (up & toward the front of
the car), but all of the hoses can stay connected.

I agree with the rest of your message. If the radiator is original,
best to just pull it and replace it.

-Ryan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:11:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Overheating?

Hey there Paul,

  I will type what I can, as I do not know as much as
some of these guys here, and others here could by far
add/correct to whatever I type.

Whenever I have driven in my DeLorean, I watch my temp
gauge very carefully - as it basically is the car's
"blood pressure" - too high and it goes "boom".  I
drove my car around town yesterday, and it was
probably about 82 degrees outside.  Whenever my needle
hits the dead center of 220, the fans come on
everytime.  The temp drops to relatively 195 degrees
and the fans shut off without fail.  For you to say
240 degrees, I'm assuming you mean temperature and not
geometric (0-360).  No DeLorean with a properly
running cooling system should ever be at 240 IMHO,
that just seems too high to me.  If it gets over 220,
there's something awry somewhere.  It could be a
plugged coolant hose, a failing otterstat, one of two
of the fans may not be properly working (This happened
to me last summer, and even with a fan on, the
temperature continued to go up and up.), or air in the
coolant system - among anything else I didn't list.

Give us your car's background in terms of any
modifications (air bleeder kit, different thermostat,
revamped cooling system, radiator change/status, etc,
etc), and maybe more suggestions could be brought to
the table.  What speed were you going on the highway -
anything above 45 mph constantly should give enough
air to the radiator to cool the system down (at least,
with my car) if you're not in "stop and go" traffic.

Oh, and the A/C question.  To put in layman's (sp?)
terms, the A/C puts a load on the engine, and the
temperature will increase a little bit - enough to
register on the temperature gauge.  My car did that
all the way to Pigeon Forge last year and I was going
70+mph; Casey informed me it was/is nothing to worry
about.

Check your fans, make sure both are working.  I used
to think both mine did, but careful inspection
reveiled only one working (I put my hand underneath
and thought I had airflow from both).  That could
possibly be your problem.  In terms of Fanzilla/FanFix
Dual, get anything besides a three way fused jumper. 
Anything ouside of FanZilla/Fan Fix Dual/any other fan
module from a DeLorean vendor is just a begging for
trouble.

Whew, all that typing.  If you meant 240 in a
geometric sense, I'm gonna die =P.

Jeremiah
 


		
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail Mobile 
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 09:25:08 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Odd electrical Behavior (go figure)

This morning I decided to drive the D and when I went to the garage  
and turned the key I realized the battery was dead with barely enough  
power to light the dash lights although the door markers lights were  
fine. As soon as I turned the key the Tach needle shot up to a little  
over the 5k rpm mark and has stayed there even though the key is off.  
I turned the key on and off a couple times and the needle stayed put.  
What Gives?

I'm not sure what caused the battery to drain over the last week but  
it was probably low to begin with so I will get a new one this  
weekend. The only things that I know of that would be drawing power  
with the key off would be the clock, the stereo and the Lockzilla  
remote receiver. I know that all the lights (trunk, engine  
compartment, glove box and cabin) are functioning properly and are  
not staying on.


Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 13:09:08 -0400
From: Peter Cameron <cameron_at_dml_bnl.gov>
Subject: Re: The Door Strut Experiment

I have Grady struts on my doors, and they work perfectly, bring the 
doors up all the way winter and summer, no bumps, no tweaking the 
torsion bars (tho he did install the struts, as the doors were 
sagging when I got the car from the previous owner, and for all I 
know he might have adjusted the torsion bars at that time).

Rob also installed new shocks and springs (the lowering kit), and the 
improvement in handling is obvious and well worth the money.

He also has replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets, steering gear, 
right angle drive, front wheel bearings,...  Everything he has done 
on the car has been excellent. Wonderful thing, to have him and his 
excellent shop available, right down the road here on Long Island.

my wish list:
1. simple and inexpensive way to get some more hp out of those 2.8 liters
2. simple and inexpensive ABS upgrade
3. simple and inexpensive airbag upgrade

Peter Cameron
vin 3579


>All,
>I just had an opportunity to install the Grady struts. My intention was to
>take a few measurements to set a base- line for the test.    After I set my
>torsion bars to the proper "Hang" point, (without struts, about 20 inches
>from sill to door.) I installed the Grady lifts and let them go with just an
>unlatching of the door and no other release assistance. The Grady struts
>raised the doors with such force that the car rocked from side to side
>several times! I actually had to check the mounts to see if they had been
>damaged. I re-adjusted until the door's torsion bars without struts were set
>to a point where they were so slack that they hung with only one inch
>between the sill and the bottom of the door (Almost closed). I let them fly
>and they still flew open with impressive force far greater than I would
>recommend. I observed no "braking action" or deceleration whatsoever. They
>landed hard. Closing them took considerably more force than I recall ever
>using. In addition, I also have the extra weight of the door launcher
>solenoids which is about an 2 extra pounds worth of components which adds
>even more burden when you consider their mounting position relative to the
>cantilever of the door. I would assume that proper torsion adjustment
>compensates for the additional burden but not when they are that slack. I am
>afraid to even try to use the launchers because they'll hit so hard I think
>they'll crack the roof panel if launched simultaneously. Hearing all the
>"they barely lift my door stories" I wasn't expecting this at all. These are
>VERY powerful struts. The most surprising aspect was this first round was
>observed at 68 degrees during the day and again at 39 degrees at night with
>no discernable change. My old struts worked OK during the day with the sun
>beating on it but were nearly worthless below 50 degrees.  I believe I may
>have to re-think the parameters of this test a bit. Stay tuned...
>Rustproof
>Vin 1559
[moderator snip]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 18:10:56 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Volvo Engine Crossreference.

See if any of them can actually tell you what that means before you go 
believing them :-) If there is a difference it'll be the shells, not the 
block that's different

Martin

content22207 wrote:

>Volvo newsgroups describe B280 as having "low friction" bearing
>refinements. Don't get me to lying -- only know what I read.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 17:22:59 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Cracked Windshield

Hi Hank.

Sorry to hear about your windshield.

Do you park on a hill, or sloped surface?  It's been pointed out to me, 
I've noticed as well, that when I park on such surfaces, the car warps 
a little bit under its own weight.

When I replaced my windshield, I used 3/8" bead, instead of the (I 
think) stock 5/16" bead, just to get a little more cushion.  Can't 
vouch for the results.  It hasn't broken, so that doesn't say much.  I 
also taped the top edge of the glass to keep it from contacting the top 
trim piece.

Your underbody could just plain be warped.  I've never heard of this in 
the windshield context, but it should be possible.  It's happened to 
people in the door area.  Placing a windshield on the unbeaded flange 
and looking for uneven gaps would expose this defect, if it exists.
Another thing to look for is whether the trim pieces are trapping 
tension on the glass.  If they have to be forced into position, even if 
with only minimal force, to line up the holes, that would be the case.  

Rick Gendreau 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Hank <heskin_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> On 5/11/05, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> > This crack is from an improper installation. You should try to
> > get the shop to be responsable for it and give you a discount on the
> > labor to replace it, that is if you even trust them to do it again 
(I
> > would not, I would find another shop). 
> 
> My "shop" was Rob Grady, I think he knows what he's doing -- and of
> course, I'm going back to have it replaced.  There's no shop around
> here (Boston) that I would trust to do it correctly.
> 
> And I haven't jacked my car in any way causing any torsion, flex, or 
stress.
> 
> -Hank






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 17:30:01 -0000
From: "Charlie" <charles_az1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction

The real PT3 DMC is sitting on the Universal backlot(near Barham & 
Forrest Lawn E. of USH) with many time travel and stock parts 
missing, roasting for years in the California sun next to the half 
cut DeLorean with what looks like a forklift atachment on the 
firewall. These cars can be seen on the USH VIP tour(if you ask 
kindly).

None the less this would be a cool car auction to watch.

Charlie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On 
Behalf Of
> Mike
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 11:27 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Barris DeLorean Auction
> 
> Hello List,
> Just to FYI the BTTF fans on this list.
> George Barris is auctioning off the back to the future DeLorean 
used 
> in the third movie. Along with other vehicles used or not used in 
> films. I thought Barris built the Time Machine DeLoreans for
> publicity for the Universal theme parks and not for the films? 
> 
> Regards,
> Mike
> vin#1113
> 
> http://www.butterfields.com/cgi-bin/public.sh/pubweb/publicSite.r?
> sContinent=USA&screen=Catalogue&iSaleNo=13278
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links






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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 12:33:49 -0500
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction

The car's description refers to it having functional strobe lighting on
the bottom of the car....I'm presuming this to be the effect used at the
end of the first movie, (and obviously the 2nd)  and I doubt there would
have been more than one car with this strobe lighting.  (Frankly, I
thought they used a miniature for that...I need to go back and watch the
scenes again.)  Seems like a respectable auction house ought to have a
bit more information - and actual pictures.  And of course, while they
say the special lighting functions, they make no reference as to whether
or not anything else on the car does!

KP
4547

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Videobob Moseley
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 9:33 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Barris DeLorean Auction

The only screen used BTTF3 cars that I have seen, are the one that was
hit 
by the train and is not re-assembled and hanging upside down in a
restaurant 
(I think Planet Hollywood in Hawaii?)
The other is the one that was converted with the Volkswagen and red
wheels 
which I have seen photos of and it is hammered.
The only other part3 car would be the one in the cave with the rotted 
wheels.
I assume that this was a left over from Part2, and the two movies were
made 
consecutively
so it's all the same I guess.

The main thing is that the actual car being sold is not being pictured,
and 
maybe George Barris purchased this car and is now selling it, but if it
is 
one he built it is not an original screen used car.

If anyone out there knows this, it's you Stephen!
-Videobob

[moderator snip]




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 13:10:13 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Odd electrical Behavior (go figure)

Phil, I bet it was the door switches and you couldn't see the lights.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Phil Priestley
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 10:25 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Odd electrical Behavior (go figure)


This morning I decided to drive the D and when I went to the garage
and turned the key I realized the battery was dead with barely enough
power to light the dash lights although the door markers lights were
fine. As soon as I turned the key the Tach needle shot up to a little
over the 5k rpm mark and has stayed there even though the key is off.
I turned the key on and off a couple times and the needle stayed put.
What Gives?

I'm not sure what caused the battery to drain over the last week but
it was probably low to begin with so I will get a new one this
weekend. The only things that I know of that would be drawing power
with the key off would be the clock, the stereo and the Lockzilla
remote receiver. I know that all the lights (trunk, engine
compartment, glove box and cabin) are functioning properly and are
not staying on.


Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 12:35:46 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: BROKEN bolts!!!

Brian,

My son and I recently did a "while i'm there" project on his car. We ended 
up heli-coiling a lot of different bolt holes and drilling out some broken 
bolts. After 20+ years of being mated, steel bolts and aluminum holes 
sometimes decide to "marry for life"! Removing these bolts can lead to these 
kinds of problems.

The first thing is to be calm and not over-react. Study what you've got 
before you, and resign yourself to taking the time to fix the problem 
without making it worse. The worst thing you can do is to try to fix the 
issue in a hurry because you're in a panic only to find out that you made 
matters worse. There are a lot of different tools and techniques for fixing 
problems like this. That's why you want to size up the situation and decide 
on your approach saving the most drastic measures for last.

One thing that worked for us was to use a combination of lots of soaking in 
PB Blaster, heat on the aluminum part, (working a torch around the outside 
of broken bolt) and a nifty little tool we got at Sears that is kind of a 
female "easy-out". It has a hex-shaft to fit securely into the chuck of a 
reversible drill and internal teeth that grip the remains of the bolt that 
are still protruding from the hole. It doesn't need a lot of bolt to get a 
grip. You should use this in a 1/2" reversible drill and use LOW speed so as 
not to strip the outside of the bolt. What you really want is to apply a lot 
of torque to it, which is why I suggested using a 1/2" drill as opposed to a 
smaller drill. Before doing this, take a deep breath, quiet down your 
emotions, and resign yourself to careful and time consuming work. Don't rush 
this. Use lots of soaking with PB Blaster for a long time before you attempt 
to remove the remains of the broken bolt. Use only a propane torch if you're 
heating an aluminum part as an acetylene torch risks melting or damaging the 
part. We ended up using a small pick to peel the remains of the bolt out of 
the threaded hole.This worked for us on some parts, and when successful, it 
allows you to reuse the original bolt hole.

On a water pump bolt that snapped on my son's car we had nothing left 
sticking out to grip so we drilled it out and chased the threads with a tap. 
You MUST drill straight down the center of the bolt of course! We center 
punched it and then made a small starter dimple with a small bit before 
working our way up to a bit that matched the MINOR diameter of the bolt.

On my son's car one of the four 7 mm holes for the intake manifold bolts was 
stripped. We heli-coiled that hole and "while we were there" we did the 
other three intake holes as well, since a heli-coil repair is stronger than 
the original threaded hole in the aluminum. If you need to helicoil a 7 mm 
hole, you may need to mail-oreder the heli-coil kit as 7 mm is an uncommon 
size. It may not be available locally.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "ashtonorlan" <ashtonorlan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] BROKEN bolts!!!
>Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 05:53:39 -0000
>
>I am in the process of "while im in there" and I have 2 broken bolts
>with about a quarter inch of metal still out. (1) Back left of the
>intake manifold (1 of 4) and (2)the very bottom of the three bolts for
>the water pump, the one at the six o'clock position(NO IDEA!!) ANY,
>and I mean ANY help with this is appreciated.
>
>Brian D
>05905






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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 18:25:28 -0000
From: "fgdavison" <fgdavison_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft

Thank you all for all the suggestions and advice.

I ended up leaving the radiator in place, removed the sway bar and
slid the fan shroud down and out.  It took several hours and I wish I
would have tried to fix it in place, using the method Rob described. 
I did RTV the clip in place on the front side.  The radiator is not
the original, it is all metal and there were no studs, everything was
held together with nuts and bolts.  Given all the work involved, if I
have to pull the fan motors out again, I will go ahead and replace the
radiator and fan shroud with a new setup.  $5 this time, $500 next and
it will be well worth it to never have to do it again.

Best regards,

Fred Davison
Santa Maria, CA
#0870






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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 12:15:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

Tom,
Since "kjc" neglected to tell you how to get a better search than the stinky
Yahoo version, try this:
1. Search the DML site via Google - http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
2. Search more recent posts via Stragands archive -
http://www.projectvixen.com/archives/index.htm
Both still require hunting & pecking but it may help since no one has much to say
about either brand.

Dave Stragand,
Why on some searches it brings up the WHOLE "digest" instead of the individual
emails?

Shannon Y
16506

-------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 19:16:09 -0500
   From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

There has been A LOT of discussion about of tires over the years. Even
a poll recently.
You need a better search. Michelin Pilot xgt's seem to be the preferred tire.
No problems, really with mismatched since they already are.

On 5/10/05, Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> I've searched the archives and to my suprise I couldn't find anything of 
substance on this.    I need 2 new back tires.  I'm currently running Yoko AVS 
Intermediates.  The fronts are in great shape, but the backs will not pass
inspection due 
to wear.
> 
> I'm pondering the BF Goodrich T/A Radial or the Dunlop GT qualifier.   I don't 
have the cash right now to do all four so please don't say they will be 
mis-matched.....I know and it pains me that the fronts are in such good shape.
> 
> If you have these tires or have experience using both I would like to know your

impressions.
> 
> If anyone is interested in a pair of good used front AVS tires let me know.  I 
can send you a pic showing tread depth.  I could then spring for a set of fronts 
as well.


		
Yahoo! Mail
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 14:22:28 -0600
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12_at_dml_nucleus.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction

Universal Studios still has the Part III car available for use in there
property department.

http://props.universalstudios.com/prop_db_search_results.asp#

I've contacted the Auction House that's got the car listed, and they've
emailed me a "Notice to the Bidders" .pdf file that states that this car may
be a replica.  Right now I'm on the phone with Universal, trying to figure
out if this is indeed an actual screen-used car from the movies, or a Kustom
built one from Barris.






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