From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2620
Date: Saturday, May 14, 2005 1:14 PM

There are 13 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DeLorean for sale, 1981 automatic 30k miles, Excellent Condition, Just Smogged
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. RE: Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>

3. Re: Flushing coolant system
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Barris DeLorean Auction
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>

7. Scathing Strut Rebuttals.
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>

8. Re: struts (Various Owner Opinions)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Re: Cracked Windshield
From: Paul Gress <pgress_at_dml_optonline.net>

10. VIN# 5677 or Sale
From: "Mariner4C" <m.penland_at_dml_mchsi.com>

11. Recovered dashes available...
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

12. Re: First time advertised for sale.
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>

13. RE: removing winscreen trim
From: Chris Nicholson <christransdmc_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 14:23:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: JDub <doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean for sale, 1981 automatic 30k miles, Excellent Condition, Just Smogged

Well friends it's time to sell my DeLorean.  I've had
the cars for about two years now. It's #3215, an 81
automatic with 30k miles. The body is in excellent
condition and the engine runs perfect.

I'm located in Millbrae, CA.  I have too many cars,
and some of them have to go. I'm listing this car on
these mailing lists before it goes on ebay. I know if
someone from these lists purchases her she will be
given a good home.

I'm asking $17,999 or best offer.

Here are pics of the car: 

http://tinyurl.com/c3rp5

Lemme know if that links work sometimes I have trouble
with it. 

As you can see in the pictures the car overall is
excellent, it does have a couple of flaws on the
interior as I have displayed. 

Parts I've replaced: 

Otter-stat 
Plugs, wires, cap 
Rebuilt front calipers 
New master cylinder 
Steering column bushing 
New alternator 
New Fuel distributor O-ring seal 
Engine cover stay assy 
Complete strut lift kit for entire car 

You also get a box of spare parts, workshop manual,
dash mat, seat covers, and cleaning kit for the
exterior of the car.

Jon 
(650)773-4935





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 16:52:15 -0500
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Barris DeLorean Auction

Oliver wrote:
>I wasn't going to respond to this thread, but for some reason, people 
>have a need to believe that somehow, Barris did build a car for the
BTTF 
>films, despite the filmmakers absolute statements to the contrary.<

I never assumed this was a car he built - merely one coming from a
collection of his. But one way or another, I can't see how it could come
from the 3rd film.

KP
4547






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 22:34:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Flushing coolant system

The easy way is to just fill with water, run the motor for a while,
dump the water and repeat until the water you dump appears clear.
Refill with 50/50 soft water and anti-freeze, bleed and pressure test.
The harder, more thourgh way is to reverse-flush the motor, the heater
core, the radiator, and the coolant pipes individually. Dispose of
coolant properly, don't leave any puddles that an animal could lick up
and don't pour coolant down any sewers. Pressure test BEFORE you put
the anti-freeze in AND after. This way if you blow a hose or find any
leaks you don't waste the anti-freeze.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy"
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello again,  I need to flush the coolant system.  It has been about 3k 
> miles since that last time and I found out last night that there was no 
> coolant in the tank after I nearly overheated.
> 
> I was wondering where I could get a good coolant flush kit and I was 
> also wondering if I need to remove the thermostat in order to do it. If 
> so, where is it and how would I go about doing that.
> 
> I have replaced all the coolant hoses, and I have the SS coolant tank.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Japheth VIN: 1223






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 22:43:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction

MY guess (and this is only a guess) is that Barris did some of the
promotional BTTF cars after the movies were filmed and released. These
are cars that were never actually in the movies but were instead used
for promotional activities or as props for places like Planet
Hollywood. According to the "Director's cut" video Barris did not do
the BTTF cars from any of the movies. I would ask the auction house to
provide some documentation (ANY DOCUMENTATION!) That would
authenticate the provenance of the car. Without such documentation the
car can only be represented as a replica of a BTTF movie car. Much
like Bob Brandies's car (sorry for the misspelling Bob).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Kermit wrote: "The car's description refers to it having functional 
> strobe lighting on
> the bottom of the car....I'm presuming this to be the effect used at the
> end of the first movie>"
> 
> I wasn't going to respond to this thread, but for some reason, people 
> have a need to believe that somehow, Barris did build a car for the
BTTF 
> films, despite the filmmakers absolute statements to the contrary.
> 
> I






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:44:38 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Cooling fan fell off the motor shaft

 
I haven't been following this thread all that close but somewhere I  remember 
info about a "tool" that was made and a technique to fix this fan  problem 
without removing the fans.  Anyone else remember that?

 
Dē & 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 22:46:51 -0000
From: "jeff512tr" <cingular512_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Barris DeLorean Auction

FWIW, 2 years ago I was at a Kruse Auction, and they were conducting 
a sale at a car museum in Daytona that had a few "movie cars." George 
Barris himself was there, hawking a Batmobile as "one of the orginal 
4 from the TV show." The car brought a staggering $200,000. Weeks 
after the auction, the buyer learned that this was not a car used in 
the TV show, but a recreation built by Barris many years later. 
Lawsuits were threatened but in the end Kruse bought the car back.
Now a Barris BTTF DeLorean? Hmmm....




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Kermit wrote: "The car's description refers to it having functional 
> strobe lighting on
> the bottom of the car....I'm presuming this to be the effect used 
at the
> end of the first movie>"
> 
> I wasn't going to respond to this thread, but for some reason, 
people 
> have a need to believe that somehow, Barris did build a car for the 
BTTF 
> films, despite the filmmakers absolute statements to the contrary.
> 
[moderator snip]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 23:04:51 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Scathing Strut Rebuttals.

To All and ESPECIALLY Rob Grady,
This "experiment" was not meant to be an attack on any of the vendors,
especially Rob Grady who is as knowledgeable as anyone in the business. As I
stated
in my original comments that the doors were adjusted to my previous struts
that worked well in the daytime temps and not at all during the evening
temps. Hence the reason for purchasing the new struts. The old struts were
simply removed and the "hang" was about 20 inches door base to sill bottom
and they have been adjusted that way for my last two sets of struts. This
"hang" height without struts in place served to give the past two sets of
struts (from other vendors) enough assist to get the doors to open fully
with struts in place. I also added that there is an additional burden of the
launcher solenoids that this level of torsion bar adjustment compensated
for. All I did was replace the old (That worked well when new) with the
Grady struts. The door flew open. I believe Rob when he says this should be
expected. I then adjusted them until the doors were just about an inch from
the sill hoping to find a happy medium. This is five inches below that
recommended in the DMC tech articles I was able to find. Still, even at this
height, the doors opened with some pretty good bounce at the top with no
discernable braking action REGARDLESS of the temperature. No matter how you
slice it, these are in fact, VERY powerful struts.  I don't work for
Consumer Reports. I have no axe to grind. Nor do I have the resources to
purchase several pairs of struts to do comparisons just for laughs. I asked
a question and got mixed answers. I just set out to get an answer for
myself. (This is still an exchange of information forum isn't it?) I needed
a pair of struts and I wanted the best.  Rob, I have the greatest respect
for you and that is why I purchased yours first. Everything I have purchased
from you in the past has been top-notch without exception. However, most of
the emails I received (off-list) stated that your struts were on the weak
side. I didn't write them, I just read them and I wanted to see if they was
true. Well, the only conclusion so far is that the pair I have certainly do
not warrant that description. I now also believe that each strut set just
might have to be adjusted based on the environment and other individual
mechanical variables each situation presents. These may be due to
inconsistencies in manufacture and a myriad of other unpredictable
variables. Lastly, I did in fact ask for suggestions and test input from
EVERYONE on the list(vendors included) when I first announced I planned the
evaluation. I could have used your input then. I just assumed the vendors
were reading the list. My mistake. Next time I'll consult them directly.
Hey, I just reported my experience. If I offended you in some way, I
apologize. It certainly was never my intention.
Rustproof
Vin 1559

----- Original Message -----
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] struts


> Hi Tom,
>
> You bring up a very good and often overlooked point. The lift piston is
just
> 1/3rd of a three part equation with all parts being roughly equal but very
> different. The parts are as follows.
>
> 1. Lift Piston
>
> 2. Torsion Bar Initial Preload
>
> 3. Ambient Temperature (assuming you're outdoors)
>
> It is difficult to do a valid comparison without the numbers one and two
> being identical. For instance Rustproof VIN 1559 said (What's wrong with
> using a real name?) that he set the torsion bar unaided pre-load (No
piston)
> to the "proper "hang" point". Who told him this? I would have told him 3"
to
> 5" is the proper preload for any new piston. 20" should be sufficient to
> catapult the person opening the door over to the passenger side of the car
> not to mention damaging the roof support structure! Since he's conducting
a
> "test" it would be advisable to contact the supplier for proper set-up or
> installation information. His doors would fly up with any new lift piston.
> Each notch on a torsion bar equals about 5% of the total charge. Much more
> than 2 notches, equal to two incremental adjustments, and you run the risk
> of bending the roof support structure, which is why most lift pistons
should
> be changed every three to five years. I could talk about lift pistons and
> DeLorean doors for hours as I consider it my "sub-specialty" but I have to
> head out of town for the weekend so no more boring lecture for now.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Rob Grady
[moderator snip]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 04:02:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: struts (Various Owner Opinions)

Do you suppose there are as many door strut opinions as there are oil
viscosity/change interval opinions?

For my particular T Bar setting (done by Dave Swingle three years ago
-- 5" or so of hang), I need 2 different sets. I use yours in the warm
weather, then switch to a set of Houston's when temps turn cold. Gives
me consistent door operation year 'round, and allows me to store each
set upright for half a year to protect the seals.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <rob_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Hi Tom,
> 
> You bring up a very good and often overlooked point. The lift piston
is just
> 1/3rd of a three part equation with all parts being roughly equal
but very
> different. The parts are as follows.
> 
> 1. Lift Piston
> 
> 2. Torsion Bar Initial Preload
> 
> 3. Ambient Temperature (assuming you're outdoors)
> 
> It is difficult to do a valid comparison without the numbers one and two
> being identical. For instance Rustproof VIN 1559 said (What's wrong with
> using a real name?) that he set the torsion bar unaided pre-load (No
piston)
> to the "proper "hang" point". Who told him this? I would have told
him 3" to
> 5" is the proper preload for any new piston. 20" should be sufficient to
> catapult the person opening the door over to the passenger side of
the car
> not to mention damaging the roof support structure! Since he's
conducting a
> "test" it would be advisable to contact the supplier for proper
set-up or
> installation information. His doors would fly up with any new lift
piston.
> Each notch on a torsion bar equals about 5% of the total charge.
Much more
> than 2 notches, equal to two incremental adjustments, and you run
the risk
> of bending the roof support structure, which is why most lift
pistons should
> be changed every three to five years. I could talk about lift
pistons and
> DeLorean doors for hours as I consider it my "sub-specialty" but I
have to
> head out of town for the weekend so no more boring lecture for now.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Rob Grady







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 00:47:12 -0400
From: Paul Gress <pgress_at_dml_optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Cracked Windshield

Hank wrote:

>On 5/11/05, David Teitelbaum wrote:
>  
>
>>This crack is from an improper installation. You should try to
>>get the shop to be responsable for it and give you a discount on the
>>labor to replace it, that is if you even trust them to do it again (I
>>would not, I would find another shop). 
>>    
>>
>
>My "shop" was Rob Grady, I think he knows what he's doing -- and of
>course, I'm going back to have it replaced.  There's no shop around
>here (Boston) that I would trust to do it correctly.
>
>And I haven't jacked my car in any way causing any torsion, flex, or stress.
>
>-Hank
>
>
>  
>
I had this happen to my car, after about 15 years with the original 
windshield.  It looked just like the photo's earlier shown.  Mine was 
caused by stress from the frame rusting and cracking.  Only after having 
the frame repaired did I replace the windshield.

Paul




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 11:29:10 -0000
From: "Mariner4C" <m.penland_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: VIN# 5677 or Sale

Last week I put VIN # 5677 for sale in DMCNews and neglected to post
message on forum. I will be happy to field any questions. The add is
under the name Mark Penland car is located NW Fla
Thanks, Mark






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 00:34:35 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Recovered dashes available...

Hey Gang,

I have two newly recovered grey dashes available right now for $250 
apiece, plus your old cores.  Just got them done and they look 
absolutely perfect.  Color is a spot on match for the original, and the 
material is the correctly grained vinyl.  I have pictures posted under 
the photos section in a folder called "Josh's Dashes", and will gladly 
answer any questions about them for anyone.  Please contact me off list 
at (jhaldeman(AT)fuse.net) if you are interested.

Thanks for your attention,
Josh





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 05:17:57 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayfw_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: First time advertised for sale.

Re my sale of my Vin: 05962.......I thought of one more item which will go 
with it.   I built up the jig for adjusting the torsion bars and purchased 
ALL of the Craftsman tools required, including breaker bar and a pipe 
extension, although I had many of the tools already.  I wanted them to GO 
with the D when I sold it.   I know there are other ways to do it, but in my 
estimation this is the safest and easiest.  Several Clubs are using this jig 
for the members but I am not close enough to borrow one, so built and 
purchased my own.

Re Torsion bar adjustments.  I see writeups about them being so strong that 
they rock the car when it flys up to the top.   I just would NEVER let this 
happen......for goodness sake, hold onto that strap the first time you try 
it and don't let it do that and continue to do that until you get it 
adjusted properly!     It has only been necessary to adjust mine two times 
since the car was new......the struts have been replaced twice and that has 
always been enough correction.  Mine go up on a summer day...like now and 
just gently touch the top.....last winter they need just a little nudging to 
go the last few inches.

Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic:  DMC-XII 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 18:04:43 +0100 (BST)
From: Chris Nicholson <christransdmc_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RE: removing winscreen trim


Hi

The Upper moulding for the windscreen is stainless steel. Where the sides pieces are aluminium. I have welded both pieces separately and fabricated them on different occasions.

 

Best Wishes

Chris
Deloreansforsale.com

		
---------------------------------
How much free photo storage do you get? Store your holiday snaps for FREE with Yahoo! Photos. Get Yahoo! Photos

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------