From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2622
Date: Monday, May 16, 2005 1:48 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Fuel Pump or Not Fuel Pump?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Loose fuel lines - why??
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Loose fuel lines - why??
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Re: odd year for 5898
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Antenna Removal and Replacement Headlights
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Performance exhaust
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

7. All suggestions..... welcome
From: "Joel Hot" <jmatos22_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Replacement Headlights
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

9. RE: Antenna Removal and Replacement Headlights
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: Midwest Club Tech Day (week) report
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

11. Re: Midwest Club Tech Day (week) report
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: All suggestions..... welcome
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

13. Re: All suggestions..... welcome
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Antenna Removal and Replacement Headlights
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. AW: All suggestions..... welcome
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

16. Engine Compartment Cover Latch
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Fuel Pump or Not Fuel Pump?
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

18. Northeast Exotic Car Show 2005 / Delorean Invitation
From: "corkeroni" <jefftorrey_at_dml_Comcast.net>

19. RE: Scathing Strut Rebuttals.
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

20. RE: Engine Compartment Cover Latch
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

21. Re: Engine Compartment Cover Latch
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

22. Re: odd year for 5898
From: "bravoracer" <kingme8_at_dml_hotmail.com>

23. RE: Midwest Club Tech Day (week) report
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

24. Re: Engine Compartment Cover Latch
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

25. Re: Scathing Strut Rebuttals.
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 19:46:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump or Not Fuel Pump?

You are certainly proceeding in the right direction. Pull the outer
boot off the fuel pump. You will see the pump right there with the
wires attached. With the relay bypassed and the ignition on the pump
should be running. If it is not put a voltmeter on the connections and
see if you have 12 volts at the pump. If not you will have to find out
why. It could be a bad ground or maybe a bad connection. There is a
plug by the washer bottle that the power for the pump runs through.
You might have to go there and check for power and ground. It is
common (if the outer boot is shot) for water to collect on top of the
pump and corrode the wires right off the pump. In any case you are
right, it does sound fuel related and if the pump isn't running the
motor will not either. You could also temporarly hot-wire the pump to
get it to run to make sure the pump is OK and the problem is
electrical to the pump.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I am a two-week owner of an '82 DMC, VIN 10820, 11K miles from an
> owner 
> who reportedly replaced lots of things from 3K miles on including the 
> fuel pump, lines, filter.  I figured I might get some time driving
> the 
> car before something went too wrong.  HA!
> 
> That said, I think the honeymoon is over and it's initiation time.  :)
> 
> Went to start the car today.  It fired up and stalled about 3 seconds 
> later.  Engine now turns over strongly but does not fire.  
> 
> Removed the air filter and dropped a few drops of gas into what would 
> have been the carburetor in an older car (I'm not a mechanic but it 
> seemed fuel mixed with air here might do something).  Engine started 
> immediately and ran a few turns until that gas was exhausted... a 
> second or so.  So I seem to have ignition capabilities but no fuel 
> where it is needed.
> 
> Poked around on the 'net and in the shop manual that came with the 
> car.  
> 
> Here's what I've seen so far:
> 
> Fuses 1 and 7 appear to be related to the fuel system. They are 
> 






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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 19:54:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Loose fuel lines - why??

I would first inspect carefully all the hollow bolts that were loose.
It is very easy to overtorque them and then they split at the hole. If
the bolts are OK maybe there was something weird about the copper
washers. I would just try tightening them up again as Joe K is
suggesting. Overtorquing can also collapse the ends of the hose too.
Unusual that it is only on the fuel dist unit though. I would guess a
bad torque wrench would affect all of the bolts. Sometimes you just
have to trust your "Calibrated Elbow". Tighten it up just before you
break it but after it stops leaking. Have a fire extinguisher handy,
atomized fuel is something you don't fool around with!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Maybe your torque wrench went way out of spec? I had a cheapy torque
wrench 
> that went out of spec the other way - it was over-torquing ev






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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 20:50:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Loose fuel lines - why??

Disregard my previous post on this. I will bet you just forgot to
tighten them, they are all on the same component. Tighten them up like
you did the others and you should be fine. This happens to experienced
mechanics all the time too. They get interupted and when they resume
they miss a step. That or it is your Polish heritige. No offense, I am
part Polish too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Maybe your torque wrench went way out of spec? I had a cheapy torque
wrench 
> that went out of spec the other way - it was over-torquing 






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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 13:52:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: odd year for 5898


When I don't have it on the road its usually in the garage covered and is my number two car. Most feel it seems that I'm this "rich kid" with comments like is that daddy's car? Or must be nice to have money. But I worked for three years cutting lawns working 50+ hour weeks saving for it. I don't get people. And yeah I also hate that when people are on your tail for so long, and drive with high beems... its not like I'm a slow driver... nothing to be proud about having 6 or so speeding tickets so I think people can just be jerks.... Oh well. It got a nice cleaning today anyway.

 

Darryl

VIN5898


		
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail
 Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 23:22:56 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Antenna Removal and Replacement Headlights

I thought I'd combine two questions into one post, and hope it 
doesn't get confusing.  First question - are there any cross 
references to other autos for the headlamps at an auto parts store?  
Rocks and dirt fell out of a trailer truck I was behind.  A rock 
bounced up at shattered the outer high beam on the passenger side!

Next question. My power antenna doesn't work.  Is there a simple way 
to access the antenna mechanism?  I took the four screws off the 
panel to left side of the engine compartment near where the antenna 
is, but the panel wouldn't budge.  Is there some gasket or something 
that could be sticking?  I started to pry a screwdriver to unstick 
it, but noticed that the panel seemed to be fiberglass, and the 
screwdriver was chipping it.  Maybe I need to use a buttetknife to 
break whatever seal is holding it.

Any help with either of these items would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul






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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 18:30:08 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Performance exhaust

Does anybody have any pictures of DMCH's performance exhaust?

If you do could you email them to me.

Mark V





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 21:03:50 -0400
From: "Joel Hot" <jmatos22_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: All suggestions..... welcome

Hi to all 
                      I have this problem in my D 
                              with the key in ignition the door buzzer don't sound 
                             
                              the instrument panel don't light 
                              i cant start the engine (no crank) 
                              the battery is new (change after the problem) 
                              the alternator is new (change after the problem) 
                              all fuses are good 
                              the cable that have all browns cable attach to the alternator get hot went i touched 
                              voltage of battery 11.90 vdc 
Please help ..... give some light 
   All suggestion welcome 


Joel 
vin 3476 
Puerto Rico

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 01:31:07 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Replacement Headlights

I recently upgraded my headlights to the sylvania "Silverstar" lamps 
and am very happy with them.The #'s are H4656ST and H4651ST.
I believe www.specialtauto.com now stocks them.
Stephen
Vin 3601






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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 20:25:10 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Antenna Removal and Replacement Headlights

To remove the antenna,
simply remove the four outside bolts, but leave the two center bolts alone.
Time can make them sticky, it just needs to be pryed out.
Be carefull though, a previous owner may have used some sort of
seal or caulk to close it in.
Once you get the cover off it will be easy.
- Videobob

>From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Antenna Removal and Replacement Headlights
>Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 23:22:56 -0000
>
>I thought I'd combine two questions into one post, and hope it
>doesn't get confusing.  First question - are there any cross
>references to other autos for the headlamps at an auto parts store?
>Rocks and dirt fell out of a trailer truck I was behind.  A rock
>bounced up at shattered the outer high beam on the passenger side!
>
>Next question. My power antenna doesn't work.  Is there a simple way
>to access the antenna mechanism?  I took the four screws off the
>panel to left side of the engine compartment near where the antenna
>is, but the panel wouldn't budge.  Is there some gasket or something
>that could be sticking?  I started to pry a screwdriver to unstick
>it, but noticed that the panel seemed to be fiberglass, and the
>screwdriver was chipping it.  Maybe I need to use a buttetknife to
>break whatever seal is holding it.
>
>Any help with either of these items would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 02:03:02 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Midwest Club Tech Day (week) report

Only a few things to add to Dave's summary of the Tech Day (week).

Another DeLorean showed up later in the afternoon, taking us up to
another new record of 21 DeLoreans at a Tech Day.  As Dave said, we
did have much better weather than expected for the Tech Day, which
probably kept another few people from attending, including a member
stuck in a snow storm late in the week in SD (decided to stay home)
and several others who had to cancel due to last minute changes.

Although we could have easily gone over two dozen DeLoreans at the
Tech day if Dave Swingle, Marty Maier and a few others drove their
cars to the Saturday event, but that would have only been a small
added bonus to an already outstanding Tech Day.

A few members and significant others took advantage of the close
proximity of Brookfield Zoo to do 1/2 day tech day and 1/2 day of
family time at the zoo, while a few other members took photos of
the RBHS Girls Softball team posing in front of some DeLoreans.

In addition to the tech work, it was great just to hang out for the
day with a bunch of DeLorean enthusiasts.  It's always good to see
Don Steger, to catch up on things and to learn a few new tips on how
to work on these great little cars.  Thanks again Don.

All in all, no rain, no sun-burn and all DeLoreans drove out of the
garage area after repairs, so you can't have a much better Tech Day.

Thanks again to everyone who made the effort to attend, whether it
was to help, have their car fixed or just socialize a bit.

Later,
Rich W.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Yesterday was the DeLorean Midwest tech session in the Chicago area 
> featuring Don Steger. In spite of what some may think, we really do 
> know how serve up a busy and fun couple of days here.  
> 
> snip <
> 
> On Saturday, with a record turnout of 20 cars (I didn't count people 
> but I'd guess 25), and weather that was much better than expected, 
we 
> had a great time and got almost everything fixed. 
>
> snip <






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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 23:30:49 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Midwest Club Tech Day (week) report

 

I wasn't going to comment until Dave put this in his tech session  report.
Hope you enjoy my cynical but fun response
 
 
 
In a message dated 5/15/2005 11:31:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com writes:


If you  happen to see a 
tiny Ford pickup in front of a 24" closed trailer, don't  get in his 
way!<<<<<<



Yea I will run you over  :-)
 
I cannot tell you the amount of $%_at_dml_# I get driving my Ford Ranger and of  
course Dave is right at the top of the _at_dml_#$% handout.  (Probably because its  his 
trailer I am hauling now)
But 
The Little truck has a BIG motor and a low rear end. It made easy work of  
his 24' trailer and actually it handles better than my flat trailer. (except  
when a truck comes screaming by)
 
But no matter how much that little truck pulls, hauls, or pushes it never  
gets its proper credit LOL. 
It has saved many a DeLoreans like the one yesterday that lost a belt and  
overheated.
Thanks to the little silver pick up he got a free ride back (and I  
appreciated the company) so never underestimate the little truck. (glad we could  help)
 
Dave was amazed at how tight I put the weight distribution bars but it ran  
great. (It would be on the ground if I didn't)
 
The truck will pull anything and it did 65 MPH no problems BUT there is no  
way that truck can stop with that weight so I will say the brakes on the 
trailer  work fine they had to stop the truck.  
 
As far as the tech session 
Thanks for the help to the four people that pitched in.
For some of them it was a learning experience but they did fine and it got  
the car along faster than I could have alone.
Don also proved we could remover the window motor without taking off the  
bracket.
I feel guilty bending things that hard and far. But it went in fine. 
 
To recap I have two cars I am looking at for possible use as a raffle  car.
This is the automatic.
 
We did a lot on it yesterday 
Changed fuel boot
Changed fuel boot cover
Changed fuel hoses
Changed Fuse box and redid bad wires
Got the stereo going (new speakers all 4) 
Changed the rear quarter panel
Changed the door window motor
Found the problem with the door lock
 
Dave was referring to the car not running as it left because of no  gas
It was not that it was out of gas but the return tube was not stock and  they 
had it shooting back into the tank
 
I was low enough on gas (about 1 gallon in the car ) that the pump drained  
the "HAT" resevoir faster than it could fill so I replaced that today and Its  
fine.  Ran it again today.
 
PS 
Dave has this real cute itsy bitsy teeny weeny oxy acetylene system that we  
used to get that stuck pin out.  DON'T Judge based on size (leave my poor  
little pickup truck alone LOL)
 
Had a blast 
Thanks to all 
 
Good Job guys 
 
Ken
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 09:53:03 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: All suggestions..... welcome

Check the earth wire going to the frame. It attaches to the right trailing arm (behind where the battery sits). It may be loose.
 
Thomas
Vin 4087

Joel Hot <jmatos22_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi to all 
I have this problem in my D 
with the key in ignition the door buzzer don't sound 

the instrument panel don't light 
i cant start the engine (no crank) 
the battery is new (change after the problem) 
the alternator is new (change after the problem) 
all fuses are good 
the cable that have all browns cable attach to the alternator get hot went i touched 
voltage of battery 11.90 vdc 
Please help ..... give some light 
All suggestion welcome 


Joel 
vin 3476 
Puerto Rico

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links







		
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 04:15:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: All suggestions..... welcome

Make sure the negative (-), ground wire, from the battery to the frame
is actually making good contact. Clean the terminals at the battery
and all of the "big" connections. Get a voltmeter out (or a test
light) and see why you have no power. This will take a little
knowledge of automobile wiring. Clean the ground strap from the motor
to the frame too. In fact you should probably clean ALL of the ground
connections in Puerto Rico. Hot, humid, salty conditions are perfect
for corrosion.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Joel Hot" <jmatos22_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hi to all 
>                       I have this problem in my D 
>                               with the key in ignition the door
buzzer don't sound 
>                              
>                               the instrument panel don't light 
>                               i cant start the engine (no crank) 
>                               the battery is new (change after the
problem) 
>                               the alternator is new (change after
the problem) 
>                               all fuses are good 
>                               the cable that have all browns cable
attach to the alternator get hot went i touched 
>                               voltage of battery 11.90 vdc 
> Please help ..... give some light 
>    All suggestion welcome 
> 
> 
> Joel 
> vin 3476 
> Puerto Rico
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 11:42:52 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Antenna Removal and Replacement Headlights

Thanks Videobob,

I guess I have to get something thin behind it and pry.

Paul--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" 
<videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> To remove the antenna,
> simply remove the four outside bolts, but leave the two center 
bolts alone.
> Time can make them sticky, it just needs to be pryed out.
> Be carefull though, a previous owner may have used some sort of
> seal or caulk to close it in.
> Once you get the cover off it will be easy.
> - Videobob
> 
> >From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_y...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Antenna Removal and Replacement Headlights
> >Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 23:22:56 -0000
> >
> >I thought I'd combine two questions into one post, and hope it
> >doesn't get confusing.  First question - are there any cross
> >references to other autos for the headlamps at an auto parts 
store?
> >Rocks and dirt fell out of a trailer truck I was behind.  A rock
> >bounced up at shattered the outer high beam on the passenger side!
> >
> >Next question. My power antenna doesn't work.  Is there a simple 
way
> >to access the antenna mechanism?  I took the four screws off the
> >panel to left side of the engine compartment near where the 
antenna
> >is, but the panel wouldn't budge.  Is there some gasket or 
something
> >that could be sticking?  I started to pry a screwdriver to unstick
> >it, but noticed that the panel seemed to be fiberglass, and the
> >screwdriver was chipping it.  Maybe I need to use a buttetknife to
> >break whatever seal is holding it.
> >
> >Any help with either of these items would be appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 11:43:42 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: All suggestions..... welcome

Sounds like your key switch or the Aux relays are bad.

Did you pull any connector below the steering wheel ?

When nothing works it's most likely a very simple problem.
Do you have the schematic ? Can you read a schematic ?

Elvis & 6548


-----Ursprungliche Nachricht-----
Von: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag
von Joel Hot
Gesendet: Montag, 16. Mai 2005 03:04
An: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [DML] All suggestions..... welcome


Hi to all
                      I have this problem in my D
                              with the key in ignition the door buzzer don't
sound

                              the instrument panel don't light
                              i cant start the engine (no crank)
                              the battery is new (change after the problem)
                              the alternator is new (change after the
problem)
                              all fuses are good
                              the cable that have all browns cable attach to
the alternator get hot went i touched
                              voltage of battery 11.90 vdc
Please help ..... give some light
   All suggestion welcome


Joel
vin 3476
Puerto Rico





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 11:54:37 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine Compartment Cover Latch

I have about four repair issues going on at once, but here's another 
one.  When I bought my car, there was no catch on the engine 
compartment cover (the little triangular loop on the underside). I 
ordered the piece, which is threaded, but there is nothing to attach 
the threads to on the underside of the cover. There is a hole 
underneath that does not go all the way through, nor is there any type 
of imbedded nut to grab onto.  I tried drilling the hole all the way 
through, and using a nut and washer on the top side, but this places 
the latch piece too high to grab the locking mechanism below.  What am 
I missing here?  The parts catalog show this in the diagram with a 
number 50 callout number, but then it's not listed in the parts list, 
which stops at 49.  The exploded parts view shows what looks like a 
nut that this attaches to, but the part I ordered did not come with a 
nut.  Do I have to glue a nut inside the hole. 

Thanks for any help,

Paul






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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 08:55:17 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump or Not Fuel Pump?

Marv Hien wrote:

> Went to start the car today.  It fired up and stalled
> about 3 seconds later.  Engine now turns over strongly
> but does not fire.  

> Removed the air filter and dropped a few drops of gas
> into what would have been the carburetor in an older
> car (I'm not a mechanic but it seemed fuel mixed with
> air here might do something).  Engine started immediately
> and ran a few turns until that gas was exhausted... a 
> second or so.  So I seem to have ignition capabilities
> but no fuel where it is needed.


I suggest you start with the simple.  I believe the number one most 
failure-prone component in DeLoreans is the original fuel tank sender 
unit (though others disagree with me).  In the past I have seen symptoms 
exactly like yours in several DeLoreans, and it has always turned out to 
be either an empty gas tank or a fuel inlet sucking air in a partially 
empty gas tank.  In either case, you should be able to add a gallon of 
gas to the tank and get it started.

I think the out-of-gas failure happens to DeLoreans more often than most 
other cars simply because drivers of our generation is accustomed to 
reliable fuel gauges.

The half-empty failure happens to DeLoreans because the fuel inlet line 
can develop cracks, causing gas to be sucked in from the middle of the 
tank instead of the bottom.  This is more a factor of age than miles, so 
it would not be surprising in your 23 year old, 11K mile car.  It can 
also happen if the fuel inlet becomes disconnected from the bottom of 
the tank and starts wandering around in there, but I think that is 
usually cased by clumsy repairs rather than age.  If no one has been 
screwing around in your gas tank, then the cracked fuel inlet hose is 
more likely.

I'm not promising that your fuel pump is good.  But in my experience the 
fuel pump is super reliable while the fuel gauge sender and inlet hose 
are not so reliable.  If your DeLorean only has 11K miles on the clock, 
I bet your fuel pump is still strong.   The test suggested by David 
Teitelbaum can help diagnose a bad fuel pump.  FYI if you turn the 
ignition key to "RUN" (not start) in a quiet environment you should be 
able to hear the fuel pump hum for a couple of seconds.  That hum, or 
lack thereof, tells you a lot.

Make sure the car is on a level surface, add a gallon of gas, and I bet 
she fires right up.

Good luck, Marv,

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 11 years





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 13:01:05 -0000
From: "corkeroni" <jefftorrey_at_dml_Comcast.net>
Subject: Northeast Exotic Car Show 2005 / Delorean Invitation

Guys- This years Northeast Exotic Car Show will be held on Saturday 
June 25th. Everything related to this years show can be found at 
www.northeastexotic.com . If you click on the photo section of the 
website, you can get a feel of last years show. Last year this event 
conflicted with the Delorean National Event... It would be great to see 
a few cars this year. 

Thanks- Jeff Torrey 






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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 10:25:33 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Scathing Strut Rebuttals.

Calm down Rustproof. Was I really that scathing? I'm not offended at all! I
just stated that I wish I knew your name and mentioned that 20" of preload
is enough to bend your roof. I thought you might like to know. BTW I made a
little mistake on that post and meant to say items two and THREE need to be
the same to compare lift piston strength. 
Anyway I certainly was not trying to offend you either so give me a call so
we can figure out whether you have a problem or not. I won't bite you I
promise. :)

Rob Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Rustproof
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 11:05 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Scathing Strut Rebuttals.

To All and ESPECIALLY Rob Grady,
This "experiment" was not meant to be an attack on any of the vendors,
especially Rob Grady who is as knowledgeable as anyone in the business. As I
stated
in my original comments that the doors were adjusted to my previous struts
that worked well in the daytime temps and not at all during the evening
temps. Hence the reason for purchasing the new struts. The old struts were
simply removed and the "hang" was about 20 inches door base to sill bottom
and they have been adjusted that way for my last two sets of struts. This
"hang" height without struts in place served to give the past two sets of
struts (from other vendors) enough assist to get the doors to open fully
with struts in place. I also added that there is an additional burden of the
launcher solenoids that this level of torsion bar adjustment compensated
for. All I did was replace the old (That worked well when new) with the
Grady struts. The door flew open. I believe Rob when he says this should be
expected. I then adjusted them until the doors were just about an inch from
the sill hoping to find a happy medium. This is five inches below that
recommended in the DMC tech articles I was able to find. Still, even at this
height, the doors opened with some pretty good bounce at the top with no
discernable braking action REGARDLESS of the temperature. No matter how you
slice it, these are in fact, VERY powerful struts.  I don't work for
Consumer Reports. I have no axe to grind. Nor do I have the resources to
purchase several pairs of struts to do comparisons just for laughs. I asked
a question and got mixed answers. I just set out to get an answer for
myself. (This is still an exchange of information forum isn't it?) I needed
a pair of struts and I wanted the best.  Rob, I have the greatest respect
for you and that is why I purchased yours first. Everything I have purchased
from you in the past has been top-notch without exception. However, most of
the emails I received (off-list) stated that your struts were on the weak
side. I didn't write them, I just read them and I wanted to see if they was
true. Well, the only conclusion so far is that the pair I have certainly do
not warrant that description. I now also believe that each strut set just
might have to be adjusted based on the environment and other individual
mechanical variables each situation presents. These may be due to
inconsistencies in manufacture and a myriad of other unpredictable
variables. Lastly, I did in fact ask for suggestions and test input from
EVERYONE on the list(vendors included) when I first announced I planned the
evaluation. I could have used your input then. I just assumed the vendors
were reading the list. My mistake. Next time I'll consult them directly.
Hey, I just reported my experience. If I offended you in some way, I
apologize. It certainly was never my intention.
Rustproof
Vin 1559

----- Original Message -----
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] struts


> Hi Tom,
>
> You bring up a very good and often overlooked point. The lift piston is
just
> 1/3rd of a three part equation with all parts being roughly equal but very
> different. The parts are as follows.
>
> 1. Lift Piston
>
> 2. Torsion Bar Initial Preload
>
> 3. Ambient Temperature (assuming you're outdoors)
>
> It is difficult to do a valid comparison without the numbers one and two
> being identical. For instance Rustproof VIN 1559 said (What's wrong with
> using a real name?) that he set the torsion bar unaided pre-load (No
piston)
> to the "proper "hang" point". Who told him this? I would have told him 3"
to
> 5" is the proper preload for any new piston. 20" should be sufficient to
> catapult the person opening the door over to the passenger side of the car
> not to mention damaging the roof support structure! Since he's conducting
a
> "test" it would be advisable to contact the supplier for proper set-up or
> installation information. His doors would fly up with any new lift piston.
> Each notch on a torsion bar equals about 5% of the total charge. Much more
> than 2 notches, equal to two incremental adjustments, and you run the risk
> of bending the roof support structure, which is why most lift pistons
should
> be changed every three to five years. I could talk about lift pistons and
> DeLorean doors for hours as I consider it my "sub-specialty" but I have to
> head out of town for the weekend so no more boring lecture for now.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Rob Grady
[moderator snip]




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 11:57:54 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Engine Compartment Cover Latch

Hi Paul, 

We sell the striker #100597G with an oversize 5mm threaded insert that
installs using a 5/16 drill bit and some epoxy to secure it. Installation is
simple and it's very strong. I suppose we could just send you the insert
since you already have the striker. Let me know if we can assist you.

Rob Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
sweetp01569
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 7:55 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Engine Compartment Cover Latch

I have about four repair issues going on at once, but here's another 
one.  When I bought my car, there was no catch on the engine 
compartment cover (the little triangular loop on the underside). I 
ordered the piece, which is threaded, but there is nothing to attach 
the threads to on the underside of the cover. There is a hole 
underneath that does not go all the way through, nor is there any type 
of imbedded nut to grab onto.  I tried drilling the hole all the way 
through, and using a nut and washer on the top side, but this places 
the latch piece too high to grab the locking mechanism below.  What am 
I missing here?  The parts catalog show this in the diagram with a 
number 50 callout number, but then it's not listed in the parts list, 
which stops at 49.  The exploded parts view shows what looks like a 
nut that this attaches to, but the part I ordered did not come with a 
nut.  Do I have to glue a nut inside the hole. 

Thanks for any help,

Paul






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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 15:35:09 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Cover Latch

There is supposed to be a threaded insert in the engine cover to 
attach the loop.  My car was missing this insert as well.  I got one
at a hardware store and epoxied it into the hole.  A stop nut will allow
you to adjust the loop so it catches properly.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> I have about four repair issues going on at once, but here's another 
> one. When I bought my car, there was no catch on the engine 
> compartment cover (the little triangular loop on the underside). I 
> ordered the piece, which is threaded, but there is nothing to attach 
> the threads to on the underside of the cover. There is a hole 
> underneath that does not go all the way through, nor is there any type 
> of imbedded nut to grab onto. I tried drilling the hole all the way 
> through, and using a nut and washer on the top side, but this places 
> the latch piece too high to grab the locking mechanism below. What am 
> I missing here? The parts catalog show this in the diagram with a 
> number 50 callout number, but then it's not listed in the parts list, 
> which stops at 49. The exploded parts view shows what looks like a 
> nut that this attaches to, but the part I ordered did not come with a 
> nut. Do I have to glue a nut inside the hole. 
> 
> Thanks for any help, 
> 
> Paul 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 16:06:01 -0000
From: "bravoracer" <kingme8_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: odd year for 5898

I don't get the mind set of some people. It's like a bull seeing red or something.  When I 
first bought my Delorean about a year ago, one of my neighbors wouldn't even 
acknowledge me for the first few months. Although I never really talked to him that much, 
he would at least wave and say hi every so often. I guess rack it up to jealously or 
something. He's back to saying hi again, but never brings up the car, and neither do I. I've 
also had a few other instances were people see red when they see the car but overall I've 
gotten more positive feedback or no feedback at all. I also never park it out in the open for 
too long either. 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> When I don't have it on the road its usually in the garage covered and is my number two 
car. Most feel it seems that I'm this "rich kid" with comments like is that daddy's car? Or 
must be nice to have money. But I worked for three years cutting lawns working 50+ hour 
weeks saving for it. I don't get people. And yeah I also hate that when people are on your 
tail for so long, and drive with high beems... its not like I'm a slow driver... nothing to be 
proud about having 6 or so speeding tickets so I think people can just be jerks.... Oh well. 
It got a nice cleaning today anyway.
> 
>  
> 
> Darryl
> 
> VIN5898
> 
> 
> 		
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Mail
>  Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 12:13:32 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Midwest Club Tech Day (week) report

Dave,

I know what you mean about getting in Ken's way when he's pulling a trailer.
The gate to our fence (at our house...not the shop) got in his way and it's
never been the same since! I know Ken will jump in on this just please don't
run me over with your TINY truck with the BIG engine (that could) and the
MASSIVE trailer! :)

Rob

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 11:31 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Midwest Club Tech Day (week) report

 

I wasn't going to comment until Dave put this in his tech session  report.
Hope you enjoy my cynical but fun response
 
 
 
In a message dated 5/15/2005 11:31:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com writes:


If you  happen to see a 
tiny Ford pickup in front of a 24" closed trailer, don't  get in his 
way!<<<<<<



Yea I will run you over  :-)
 
I cannot tell you the amount of $%_at_dml_# I get driving my Ford Ranger and of  
course Dave is right at the top of the _at_dml_#$% handout.  (Probably because its
his 
trailer I am hauling now)
But 
The Little truck has a BIG motor and a low rear end. It made easy work of  
his 24' trailer and actually it handles better than my flat trailer. (except

when a truck comes screaming by)
 
But no matter how much that little truck pulls, hauls, or pushes it never  
gets its proper credit LOL. 
It has saved many a DeLoreans like the one yesterday that lost a belt and  
overheated.
Thanks to the little silver pick up he got a free ride back (and I  
appreciated the company) so never underestimate the little truck. (glad we
could  help)
 
Dave was amazed at how tight I put the weight distribution bars but it ran  
great. (It would be on the ground if I didn't)
 
The truck will pull anything and it did 65 MPH no problems BUT there is no  
way that truck can stop with that weight so I will say the brakes on the 
trailer  work fine they had to stop the truck.  
 
As far as the tech session 
Thanks for the help to the four people that pitched in.
For some of them it was a learning experience but they did fine and it got  
the car along faster than I could have alone.
Don also proved we could remover the window motor without taking off the  
bracket.
I feel guilty bending things that hard and far. But it went in fine. 
 
To recap I have two cars I am looking at for possible use as a raffle  car.
This is the automatic.
 
We did a lot on it yesterday 
Changed fuel boot
Changed fuel boot cover
Changed fuel hoses
Changed Fuse box and redid bad wires
Got the stereo going (new speakers all 4) 
Changed the rear quarter panel
Changed the door window motor
Found the problem with the door lock
 
Dave was referring to the car not running as it left because of no  gas
It was not that it was out of gas but the return tube was not stock and
they 
had it shooting back into the tank
 
I was low enough on gas (about 1 gallon in the car ) that the pump drained  
the "HAT" resevoir faster than it could fill so I replaced that today and
Its  
fine.  Ran it again today.
 
PS 
Dave has this real cute itsy bitsy teeny weeny oxy acetylene system that we

used to get that stuck pin out.  DON'T Judge based on size (leave my poor  
little pickup truck alone LOL)
 
Had a blast 
Thanks to all 
 
Good Job guys 
 
Ken
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 16:04:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Cover Latch

I guess now you know why that hook was missing!. There is nothing to
attach it to and that's why the other one went missing. There are 2
ways to repair. One is to drill right through and use a couple of nuts
and washers. You will have to make the threaded part longer to do that
and it looks aweful. The other, preffered way is to drill and tap for
a threaded insert like a heli-coil but use a solid one like they use
for wood. Make sure you leave yourself some adjustment so you can get
it to work correctly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I have about four repair issues going on at once, but here's another 
> one.  When I bought my car, there was no catch on the engine 
> compartment cover (the little triangular loop on the underside). I 
> ordered the piece, which is threaded, but there is nothing to attach 
> the threads to on the underside of the cover. There is a hole 
> underneath that does not go all the way through, nor is there any t






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 12:42:56 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Scathing Strut Rebuttals.

I have a pair of Rob's struts and they work great.   My passenger side 
torsion bar was torqued too tight by the PO, and I had to let it down a notch the 
other day because the door rose so hard and fast that it rocked the car.   The 
problem is not Rob's struts, its that your torsion bars need adjusting. You 
can't expect them to not need a little tweaking after 20+ years.   Sure you can 
put a super strong strut on to correct the droopy door problem you are having, 
and bend the strut mounts at the same time.   Then you have serious problems.  
 Put on a fresh Grady strut, then do a torsion bar adjustment.   

-Patrick C.
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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