From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2625
Date: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:22 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Speedo stops working (Tach xRefs)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. ITALIAN MEETING 2005 CONFIRMATION
From: "Edoardo Auteri" <kin_taro_oe_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Tachometer MPH xRef Chart Uploaded (JPG format)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. RE: Re: Ken's TINY truck.
From: "rob" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

5. Re: Otterstat cross reference?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>

6. Re: Flickering Battery Light?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Fuel Pump or Not Fuel Pump?
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Exceptional steering rack rebuild???
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Flickering Battery Light?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

10. Re: Re: Cracked Windshield
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>

11. Robs Legal stuff
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Re: Speedo stops working (Tach xRefs)
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Re: Ken's TINY truck.
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

14. RE: Flickering Battery Light?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. RE: Otterstat cross reference?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: Cracked Windshield
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

17. Re: Re: Exceptional steering rack rebuild???
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

18. European Numberplate Surround for the DeLorean
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. my 2 cents on the door strut debate
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Gas Tank filler Cap
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Car show
From: USA DJS <usa_djs_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Replacement Headlights
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Ken's TINY truck.
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Otterstat cross reference?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

25. CAR SHOW INFO!
From: USA DJS <usa_djs_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 21:34:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Speedo stops working (Tach xRefs)

In a pinch, a good rule of thumb (5 speed) is: 2,250 RPM (halfway
between the gauge marks) yields *APPROXIMATELY* 25 MPH in 2nd, 35 MPH
in 3rd, 45 MPH in 4th, and 55 MPH in 5th (just use the gear number to
keep a speed that the cops won't bother you at).

Check out the document "TACHMPH.WPD" in the Files section (Yahoo
interface). This is the xRef chart I am still running. Fits perfectly
over the speedometer (tape it to the cluster lens and you'll be able
to read it at night through back illumination). I designed it for
easiest use at a glance -- is rotated 90 degrees from the common
chart, and only includes speeds/gears I am likely to use.

Note: this is a Word Perfect document. When I open it with MSWord,
carefully chosen size and fonts are lost. One of these days I may
translate it, but personally think the better solution would be for
everyone else to start using WP.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, lordshill_at_dml_a... wrote:
> To all:  Driving north with the Delorean and out of no where the
speedometer 
> stops working.  It just plain quit.   Any ideas as to what it is? 
Probably 
> the right angle drive?  This is turning into one great adventure
after another.  
> The AC quits and then the car overheats.  Get them fixed and then
the AC 
> stops again.  Nothing like a Delorean for a sauna.  Had to drive
fast to stay cool 
> and now have no idea as to how fast I'm going.  Great Adventure..
> 
> Roy #0893
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 21:49:25 -0000
From: "Edoardo Auteri" <kin_taro_oe_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: ITALIAN MEETING 2005 CONFIRMATION

The Italian meeting is confirmed wholly 

The date and the event schedule are the same posted few weeks ago 

JUNE 2005, from Friday 24 to Sunday 26 

NO CHANGE! 

Shortly we shall have to book all hotel rooms 

PLEASE REGISTER YOURSELF & YOUR CAR ASAP 

The web page is: 

http://www.ritornoalfuturo.org/raduno1/regdmc.php 

for further info please feel free to contact me

thanks so much for the kind attention
_________________
Edoardo Auteri 
DeLorean Italian Club 
www.outatime.it
Secretary 
VIN 00788 March 1981

kin_taro_oe_at_dml_hotmail.com






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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 22:03:01 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Tachometer MPH xRef Chart Uploaded (JPG format)

I've uploaded my tachometer MPH xRef chart to the Files section (Yahoo
interface) as a JPG. Loses a little resolution, but at least is square
with the proper fonts. Since the Word Perfect version only occupies 6K
(am I the only person who notices how much more efficient WP is than
Word!) I'll leave it up for now as well.

Bill Robertson
#5939








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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 17:57:16 -0400
From: "rob" <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Ken's TINY truck.

Dave,

You must have missed my observation, lest there be any confusion, that said
altercation occurred "(at my house not at the shop)". The portal at this
location is indeed much smaller thereby causing a loss of control of "Kens
Tiny Truck" whereby said vehicle, complete with "Massive Trailer",
permanently altered the closing arc of the aforementioned enclosures
entering and exiting device. You guessed it! I'm studying for the
Bar....lawsuit to follow!!!

Rob

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
David Teitelbaum
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 10:19 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Ken's TINY truck.

Ken, Try backing in there at 4:00 AM in a blizzard. That's what we did
the night we got back from Claude's. I didn't hit the gate! And that
was with a 24' enclosed trailer with small mirrors and only Mark Levy
to watch me (I couldn't see him OR hear him!) 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> If you have ever been to robs place he has these greyhounds that the
on-text portions of this message have been removed]






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 22:50:23 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Otterstat cross reference?

220 degrees is actually a safe operating temperature for a car. When 
the water is cut with coolant, and is enclosed in a sealed system 
where it is not allowed to expand, it's boiling point temperature is 
raised significantly.

As a side note, take a look at your average modern car. While you 
will have a temperature gague, they no longer list the actual 
temperature. They just say either hot, or cold. This is to alleviate 
the exact same concerns that you have about your car right now.

As long as the fans come on at 220, and the car rapidly cools down, 
and the fans turn off, you've got absolutely nothing to worry about.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> Hello again
> 
> I need some help. My otterstat is on its way out and it's turning 
the fans 
> on at higher and higher temps. It's gotten to a point that it makes 
me 
> uncomfortable watching that temp gauge rise to 220 for the fans to 
come on. 
> Those things seem to fail pretty often. I replaced mine about two 
years ago 
> and it's already gone.... strange.
> Anyway, does anyone have a cross reference or original manufacturer 
part 
> number for the otterstat? It really makes no sense for me to order 
one from 
> the US. Shipping will probably cost more that the part itself. Plus 
it will 
> take a long time for me to get the part... I'm  in Poland.
> I promise to keep my mouth shut and I will not tell anyone what 
that number 
> is :) I just need it for my car.
> I can always take mine out of the car and find a replacement that 
way, but I 
> don't want to put the car out of commission again! I just started 
driving it 
> after a three month engine work... it was way too long. Talk about 
turning a 
> $50 job into a $500 job.
> 
> Thank you in advance
> 
> Tom Niemczewski
> jamesik_at_dml_v...
> VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
> Save the dream so you can live the dream...






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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 23:12:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Flickering Battery Light?

Besides checking the normal stuff like loose belt, loose, dirty
connections, bad battery, your best choice is to go back to John H. He
knows how his products should work and why you are having this
problem.  My guess is either a wiring problem, the wrong bulb for the
alt light, or a problem with the voltage regulator in the alternator.
I am sure John can talk you through it. This vender support is part of
what you are paying for when you buy things from a vender. Take
advantage of it, you paid for it!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Lately when I drive, my battery light flickers on and off,
regardless of if I 
> am running headlights, A/C, windshield wipers, etc.   I am running
Hervey's 
> D140, and the voltage gauge shows that the alternator is charging
just fine.   
> Sometimes when the light comes on, the needle drops from a little
below the 
> top orange line to the 13 amp mark, then back up.   This happens for
a split 
> second, only when driving.   This   battery light problem happened
to me once in 
> -text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 23:17:22 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump or Not Fuel Pump?

In earlier posts, I've been asking fuel pump questions.  

I'm a new owner and not really up to speed on the various needs for 
Fanzilla, but could near-simultaneous starting of the pump and the A/C 
system have contributed to the pump's demise? I was starting the car 
when the pump died.  I now recall hearing the front cooling fans fire 
up at exactly the same time the car stalled out. (I'd left the A/C on 
when I shut the car down.)

Any insights appreciated.  






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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 23:29:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Exceptional steering rack rebuild???

Runnout can be lateral or vertical as you point out. If it is the
wheel (rim) there is little that can be done. If it is not too bad a
wheel shop can sometimes bend or machine it out. If it is the tire
sometimes remounting it can help. I do not like "shaving" to correct
it. If the tire was properly made (and shaved) at the factory it
should never be necessary in the "field". I also do not like or
recomend dynamic balancing "On The Car". If you should ever have to
take the wheel off you will lose the balance unless you index it back
on in the exact same position. Tires can be balanced very accuratly
with a dynamic balancer off the car. If you have a problem with the
rotating assembly of the car (the rotor or hub) it should be corrected
not "balanced out". BTW to balance ON CAR assumes that the bearings
are perfect and are not causing runnout. That is not a good way to do
it because every bearing will have some runnout and play. Bottom line
is to have all 4 wheels dynamicaly balanced off-car. If it takes too
much weight to balance or they are wobbling in and out or up and down
on the machine find out what is wrong. Do not try to "shave" tires or
balance a bent rim or a defective tire. Shaving tires is best done on
heavy trucks with recaps, not cars. I jack the tire up off the ground
and put a small piece of 2X4 next to the tire but not touching. Now
spin the tire by hand and watch if the gap between the wood and the
tire changes. It should not change more than 1/16 of an inch. Same for
up and down. If it does move a lot check the rim. If the rim is bent
the tire will not run true. If the rim is NOT bent the tire is
defective. Another point to make. All new tires come with a mark to
indicate where to put the valve stem in relation to mounting the tire
onto the rim. If the shop does not follow that mark it can take an
excessive amount of weight to balance the tire.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> One thing that I've gone through more than once is tire run out. If
you jack
> the car up just enough to get the tire tread an inch or so off the
ground
> and then spin the tire you can see if the tire is round or if the tread
> appears to move up and down a bit. Many times it's the way the tire was
>






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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 00:27:44 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Flickering Battery Light?

The connection at the alternator - the one wire plug - is loose.

Hervey did a modification inside and removed the other pins - on 
mine at least - and the one connection can become loose. I took mine 
off did a minor squeeze on the one remaining pin and secured the 
dangling wire for minimum movement. All that flickering stopped.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Lately when I drive, my battery light flickers on and off, 
regardless of if I 
> am running headlights, A/C, windshield wipers, etc.   I am running 
Hervey's 
> D140, and the voltage gauge shows that the alternator is charging 
just fine.   
> Sometimes when the light comes on, the needle drops from a little 
below the 
> top orange line to the 13 amp mark, then back up.   This happens 
for a split 
> second, only when driving.   This   battery light problem happened 
to me once in 
> Pigeon Forge, then never happened again until a few weeks ago.   I 
had Dave 
> Bauerle check it out and he said that the alternator was fine and 
was charging 
> great.   I unplugged the connections to the alternator and plugged 
them back 
> in, but the problem still remains.   One thing I have noticed is 
that when I 
> turn the key to the accessory position and all of the dash lights 
come on, the 
> battery light is somewhat dim compared to the rest... is this 
normal?   Any 
> ideas on where to look?   My guess is under the dash somewhere a 
wire is crossed.
> 
> -Patrick C.
> 1880
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 20:40:19 -0400
From: Hank <heskin_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cracked Windshield

On 5/13/05, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> Not all cracks can be repaired. They use a suction cup that
> holds an injector syringe with clear epoxy against the glass 

I called several places, and they said they can handle chip, stars,
and very small cracks (less than 3 inches).  When I told them it was
6" up and 6" over, they ALL said that there is no way to repair a
crack that large, and replacement was the only way to go.

At mom-and-pop shop I called, a man with a distinct Irish accent
answered, and when I told him it was a Delorean, we had a great
conversation about the car.. and of course, he know it was built in N.
Ireland, among other things.  He was cleary a master at w/s repair,
and told me there was no way he could fix the crack that large - and I
know he wished he could just to come by and see the car, but he said
there was no way, and it wasn't even worth trying.

-- 

-Hank




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 21:07:23 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Robs Legal stuff

 
In a message dated 5/17/2005 8:56:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com writes:

You must  have missed my observation, lest there be any confusion, that  said
altercation occurred "(at my house not at the shop)". The portal at  this
location is indeed much smaller thereby causing a loss of control of  "Kens
Tiny Truck" whereby said vehicle, complete with "Massive  Trailer",
permanently altered the closing arc of the aforementioned  enclosures
entering and exiting device. You guessed it! I'm studying for  the
Bar....lawsuit to follow!!!



I would love you to describe your trailer adventure to PF in your Legalese  
language.
I was impressed by your description of my tiny truck.
 
PS if that was a massive trailer that atlered the said location of your  
potal gate then the one I have now must be HUMUNGOUSly Massive  24'  enclosed 
trailer.  Its is double the weight of what that one weighed.
Lets see what your fence can do against that one. LOL
 
Ken :-)
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 21:26:03 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Speedo stops working (Tach xRefs)

Bob and all... Many thanks for the responses and the cross reference chart.  
The cross reference chart is perfect for the emergency use.  Again, Thanks

Roy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 21:07:31 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Ken's TINY truck.

I have a 4 litre and a low rear end 
Just so happens that Bruce Benson just e-mailed me about my little truck so  
I hope he doesn't mind but I am going to take some of his e-mail and pass it 
on  for all of you little truck fans.
 
Remember this is the vehicle that makes the DeLorean Car Show possible and  
it has hauled more miles with a DeLorean in tow than some of you drive your  
DeLoreans. 
 
Go tiny truck
 
>From Bruce Benson who built My tiny Truck at the Ford plant in  Minnesota
 
With all the teasing about your tiny truck I remembered something I  should
have mentioned over the weekend. A few years back we built a series  of
Rangers with a modified rear axle that was rated the same as the F150  half
ton axle. These were for the country of Columbia. We all laughed  and
remarked they must be for hauling all that Cocaine out of the country.  A
year later we begain building these as a regular production option when  we
got our new computerized rear axle U bolt machine installed. I'm  guessing
that you must have one of these heavier rear axles in your  truck.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 21:01:36 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Flickering Battery Light?

Patrick, Normally there is a loose connection in the plug or a wire
somewhere. If the flickering is persistent then your welcome to send it back
and I will take a look at it.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 8:12 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Flickering Battery Light?


Lately when I drive, my battery light flickers on and off, regardless of if
I
am running headlights, A/C, windshield wipers, etc.   I am running Hervey's
D140, and the voltage gauge shows that the alternator is charging just fine.
Sometimes when the light comes on, the needle drops from a little below the
top orange line to the 13 amp mark, then back up.   This happens for a split
second, only when driving.   This   battery light problem happened to me
once in
Pigeon Forge, then never happened again until a few weeks ago.   I had Dave
Bauerle check it out and he said that the alternator was fine and was
charging
great.   I unplugged the connections to the alternator and plugged them back
in, but the problem still remains.   One thing I have noticed is that when I
turn the key to the accessory position and all of the dash lights come on,
the
battery light is somewhat dim compared to the rest... is this normal?   Any
ideas on where to look?   My guess is under the dash somewhere a wire is
crossed.

-Patrick C.
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Yahoo! Groups Links











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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 20:57:08 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Otterstat cross reference?

Tom,
The sources left will sell you 50 to 100 if that's what you want. If not the
otterstat I sell are very good. Unlike others I have had only 1 or 2 come
back out of several 100.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Tom
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 11:35 AM
To: DML
Subject: [DML] Otterstat cross reference?


Hello again

I need some help. My otterstat is on its way out and it's turning the fans
on at higher and higher temps. It's gotten to a point that it makes me
uncomfortable watching that temp gauge rise to 220 for the fans to come on.
Those things seem to fail pretty often. I replaced mine about two years ago
and it's already gone.... strange.
Anyway, does anyone have a cross reference or original manufacturer part
number for the otterstat? It really makes no sense for me to order one from
the US. Shipping will probably cost more that the part itself. Plus it will
take a long time for me to get the part... I'm  in Poland.
I promise to keep my mouth shut and I will not tell anyone what that number
is :) I just need it for my car.
I can always take mine out of the car and find a replacement that way, but I
don't want to put the car out of commission again! I just started driving it
after a three month engine work... it was way too long. Talk about turning a
$50 job into a $500 job.

Thank you in advance

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 03:26:29 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cracked Windshield

The crack I had repaired was about 8" long in a curved arc starting at
the bottom of the windshield about 6" in from the left side going up
and to the left side right where they put the inspection sticker! Now
you can't see the crack at all because the inspection sticker is over
it! Obviously if you can't get anyone to fix it you will have little
choice but replacement. Maybe drive the car over to one of the shops
and let them look at it before giving up. At the very least you can
make arrangements for the shop to do the replacement. Make sure they
understand you will supply the glass. You could save a few bucks if
you take the old one out and clean everything up. Remember not to glue
the mirror on. You MUST use the special tape.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


- 
> I called several places, and they said they can handle chip, stars,
> and very small cracks (less than 3 inches).  When I told them it was
> 6" up and 6" over, they ALL said that there is no way to repair a
> crack that large, and replacement was the only way to go.
> 
> 






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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 22:59:00 -0500
From: "Bruce Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Exceptional steering rack rebuild???

David, I can't argue with what you say here. It's probably the rule that
most tire shops like Goodyear and Firestone subscribe to when dealing with
the likes of everyday front engine cars. Typically with a front engine car
vibrations caused by run out will disappear after about 40MPH. Vibrations at
speeds higher than that are more than likely imbalance providing suspension
problems have been ruled out. The DeLorean, however, with it's light front
end is much more susceptible to even minor imbalance or runout. In my case
the vibrations from run out continued past 60MPH. The shop I deal with is a
high performance tire, wheel and alignment facility with vast experience in
tuning out things like vibrations. Your comments had me wondering if I might
have missed something so I re-read a portion of the Jim Horner
High-Performance Wheel and Tire Hand Book. He maintains that the ultimate
balance is a full dynamic balance on machine followed by an on the car fine
tuning because machine balance doesn't take into account the other rotating
parts. You're right, once this is done one needs to keep track of the
relationship between the wheel and the hub when removing the wheel. Run out
exceeding .060" is considered too much. Since I'm keeping track of the wheel
to rotor position because of the on car balancing then shaving .080 from the
high side of the tire doesn't seem to be extreme when the result is no
vibrations. I've spent hours trying to move a tire around the rim to
eliminate run out with little success. The tire should be mounted with the
stiffest part of the tire, it's high spot, next to the smallest area of the
rim's diameter, its low spot. That's where the valve stem hole is drilled.
In some cases moving the tire 180 degrees will solve problems but I've found
the DeLorean ( mine at least ) is very unforgiving of any imbalance or run
out.

Bruce Benson




> Runnout can be lateral or vertical as you point out. If it is the
> wheel (rim) there is little that can be done. If it is not too bad a
> wheel shop can sometimes bend or machine it out. If it is the tire
> sometimes remounting it can help. I do not like "shaving" to correct
> it. If the tire was properly made (and shaved) at the factory it
> should never be necessary in the "field". I also do not like or
> recomend dynamic balancing "On The Car". If you should ever have to
> take the wheel off you will lose the balance unless you index it back
> on in the exact same position. Tires can be balanced very accuratly
> with a dynamic balancer off the car. If you have a problem with the
> rotating assembly of the car (the rotor or hub) it should be corrected
> not "balanced out". BTW to balance ON CAR assumes that the bearings
> are perfect and are not causing runnout. That is not a good way to do
> it because every bearing will have some runnout and play. Bottom line
> is to have all 4 wheels dynamicaly balanced off-car. If it takes too
> much weight to balance or they are wobbling in and out or up and down
> on the machine find out what is wrong. Do not try to "shave" tires or
> balance a bent rim or a defective tire. Shaving tires is best done on
> heavy trucks with recaps, not cars. I jack the tire up off the ground
> and put a small piece of 2X4 next to the tire but not touching. Now
> spin the tire by hand and watch if the gap between the wood and the
> tire changes. It should not change more than 1/16 of an inch. Same for
> up and down. If it does move a lot check the rim. If the rim is bent
> the tire will not run true. If the rim is NOT bent the tire is
> defective. Another point to make. All new tires come with a mark to
> indicate where to put the valve stem in relation to mounting the tire
> onto the rim. If the shop does not follow that mark it can take an
> excessive amount of weight to balance the tire.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757






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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 08:02:21 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: European Numberplate Surround for the DeLorean

Dear All,

This is mainly of interest to the European DeLorean Owners....

You may remember a while back I was in the process of having a 
numberplate surround produced for the rear of the DeLorean which 
would fit a UK/Euroupean sized numberplate.

Well I am pleased to say that I have taken delivery of the 1st 2 
castings and I have placed some pictures in the photos section in 
the folder. 

"Euro Numberplate Surround"

Please take a look at let me know your comments, I will be selling 
them through eBay in the near future.

At the moment I am waiting to find out if DMC Huston has a problem 
with my use of the logo but they have not been too helpful thus far, 
and I am constantly hearing different rumours as to who actually has 
rights to use the DMC logo! 

Such a load of hassel for such a small projecty, so bear with me!

Anyway I look forward to your comments


James RG
England








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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 04:06:20 -0000
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: my 2 cents on the door strut debate

Please allow me to preface my opinion by stating that I have found 
Rob Grady to be the most knowledgeable of any of the vendors and he 
is always willing to offer his advice.  DMCH has been helpful 
especially with the very hard to find items but those who I have 
spoken to have often misdagnosed the problem. However everyone who I 
have spoken to at DMCH has been very cordial. John Hervey will offer 
advice but at a cost as I still can't get over the fact that he 
charged me $12 and change for phone time after I purchased over $300 
worth of merchandise from him. No joke!!!   Delorean one has never 
been of any help whatsoever as they would not answer any questions 
over the phone or via email.  With that said I purchased the complete 
set of Grady struts ie: louver, hood, doors.  The door struts 
gradually weakened and were extremely sensitive to temperature. I 
replaced the door struts after a year with Grady struts and the same 
resulted.  I was about to tighten the torsion bars even further until 
I tried a 5 year old strut off a friends D.  The door shot right up 
and held firm.  I decided to try Hervey's after reading a test 
somewhere online.  What a huge difference.  The doors sprung up and 
extended fully and slowed toward the top with minimal bounce.  The 
struts seem to be affected very little by temperature extremes.  I 
think it is beneficial to everyone (including the vendors) to post 
forthright opinions as it's the best form of quality control. So far 
the Hervey struts have been on for a year and have remained 
consistent. 






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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 12:46:29 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Gas Tank filler Cap

The rubber seal on my existing cap seems a little dried out, and I 
question how well it seals fumes from my gas tank. I am in the middle 
of replacing the fuel pump boot cover seal (when it comes in), and 
tightening some other things up to eliminate a leak (when I fill up) 
and general gas odor in my garage.  Are there any aftermarket gas caps 
that fit nicely, or do I need to order one from a Delorean parts 
dealer?

Thanks,

Paul






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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 06:48:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: USA DJS <usa_djs_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Car show

For those interested in it, there is a  Hot Rod car show going on in Michigan on the 28th of May.  There will be a pre show on May 22nd at Auto Zone on 1112 Fuller Ne, Grand Rapids, Mi 49503 from 10 am to 4 pm.  Then on May 28th 2005 from 10 am to 5pm at the Dairy Ranch 1717 142nd ave in Dorr, Mi 49341  1-616-681-9732 is the Hot Rod Show There will be 4 bands, trophys, etc.  Fee is $10.00 for entry.  Anyone that would like to show them all a real car.  THE DELOREAN lets have some fun and bring the hottest car around to it.  Thanks, Jeff


		
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 12:52:46 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <sweetp01569_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement Headlights

Thanks everyone for the headlight advice.  For now, I just went with 
replacing the single light with a general GE replacement from 
Walmart (part H4656).  The color and intensity matched the rest of 
the lights.  Perhaps will upgrade to better lights in the future.

Thanks again.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, PRC1216_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Replace them all when you do it with the numbers listed below, 
they are MUCH 
> brighter.   Go for Sylvania Cool Blue headlights, I got mine at 
Autozone.   
> Much brighter than stock, nothing really blue about them, as the 
name would 
> suggest.   Plug and play.
> 
> Low Beams: H4656   CB
> High Beams: H4651 CB
> 
> These numbers should be printed on the front of the Sylvania box 
they come 
> in.   Thanks to Shannon Y for giving me the model numbers.
> 
> -Patrick C.
> 1880
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 08:03:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Ken's TINY truck.


Re this thread:  Hmmmm, I thought the DMCForum was the
unmoderated list!  

Dick Ryan
(I hope you recognize this as attempted sarcastic
humor!)



		
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 14:49:31 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Otterstat cross reference?

Hi Tom

We're all EU now and we sell them

http://www.delorean.co.uk/DMUK/newparts1.html#otterstat

Being EU means no tax, and shipping is only 3

Martin
DMUK

Tom wrote:

>Hello again
>
>I need some help. My otterstat is on its way out and it's turning the fans 
>on at higher and higher temps. It's gotten to a point that it makes me 
>uncomfortable watching that temp gauge rise to 220 for the fans to come on. 
>Those things seem to fail pretty often. I replaced mine about two years ago 
>and it's already gone.... strange.
>Anyway, does anyone have a cross reference or original manufacturer part 
>number for the otterstat? It really makes no sense for me to order one from 
>the US. Shipping will probably cost more that the part itself. Plus it will 
>take a long time for me to get the part... I'm  in Poland.
>I promise to keep my mouth shut and I will not tell anyone what that number 
>is :) I just need it for my car.
>I can always take mine out of the car and find a replacement that way, but I 
>don't want to put the car out of commission again! I just started driving it 
>after a three month engine work... it was way too long. Talk about turning a 
>$50 job into a $500 job.
>
>Thank you in advance
>
>Tom Niemczewski
>jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
>VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
>Save the dream so you can live the dream...
>  
>





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 08:11:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: USA DJS <usa_djs_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: CAR SHOW INFO!

Forgot to put the link to where you can read more and see photos of last years Car show.  I will be there also with my car.  Here is the link it's on their home page.  www.graveyardhaulerz.com

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