From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2633
Date: Monday, May 23, 2005 7:35 PM

There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Power issues (electrical)
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

2. Re: BTTF Exhaust
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

3. Re: emergency brake question
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

4. Re: AC went "POOF!"
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Power issues (electrical)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: AC went "POOF!"
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>

7. RE: Re: AC went "POOF!"
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. Re: catalytic converters
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

9. RE: Power issues (electrical)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Re: N.Y. Times (PJ Grady) DeLorean Article re-printed in Chicago Tribune
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

11. Re: Charge for Phone Time?
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 16:15:42 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Power issues (electrical)

I had time to clean all the major electrical contacts in the engine
bay. I now get a higher reading on my voltage guage. But, the lights
still dim on the A/C panel. I'm going to try to run a ground directly
from the battery to the grounds on the A/C panel and see if that will
work. I have the D150 in my car that not too long ago was tested by
John and was fine. What else should I be checking? Thank you all!
-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> You need a new alternator. My car had a similar problem. When i rolled 
> up or down my windows the radio would turn off and on.
> 
> I installed a D110 alternator from www.specialtauto.com and it all went 
> away plus everything worked better.
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> On May 18, 2005, at 11:38 AM, stainlessilusion wrote:
> 
> > I've seen this discussion hit the list a few times but I can never
> > seem to figure mine out. My stereo cuts out when I have my A/C on, the
> > stereo comes on and then off every few minutes to every few seconds.
> > Same thing happens if I turn on the fan switch all the way to 4 real
> > fast, or if I'm rolling down/up my windows at the same time. I can
> > also see when I turn the fan switch each number-the dimmer the panel
> > lights get. Is this a ground thing?  I'm using the green/white wire
> > for the main power, and the violet for secondary. All my grounds go to
> > the mounting bracket itself. Didn't used to be this bad everů
> > Thanks
> > guys, Dani B. #5003
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> > www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >






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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 15:48:02 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: BTTF Exhaust

I'm not 100% sure myself, but I do believe there is a similar 
correlation between sound & better as there is between the stickers on 
a rice burner and speed. More research may be needed to link the two, 
but this is just my observation.
Sean


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Can you explain why louder is better??







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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 16:10:09 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: emergency brake question

Doesn't look like anyone replied to this yet, but there are 2 pads per
side- 4 pads total. Go to John Hervey's site and look at the
brake/rotor section to get a look at what the rear caliper/emergency
brake looks like. -----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "William Bladorn" <at88mph_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I have a question about the emergency brake pads.  Is there supposed
to be 
> one on each side of the caliper or is there supposed to be two on
each side? 
> (ie 4 pads in all)  I was looking in the manual and it only shows
two, but I 
> didn't know if that meant per side or total.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Duke Bladorn
> Mobile, Al.
> Age 34
> Married
> 1 wife
> Maria
> 3 kids
> Ethan 2, Tori 11, Tiffani 8
> Vin 2823






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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 16:43:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: AC went "POOF!"

Now that you mentioned that you are using John's fans and are moving
less air AND you also mention you don't have the shroud it all fits
togther into a bigger picture. By having less air move through the
radiator AND the condenser coil you will run the engine at higher
temps and also the A/C. In the A/C system higher temps translate
directly into higher pressures. Higher pressures are harder on the
whole system especially the old hoses. If the pressures get too high
there is a relief valve but it is over by the accumulater by the front
right wheel. Obviously the hose (or whatever blew) couldn't take it
and popped before the relief valve could. I strongly recomend you get
the shroud back in, especially in you're area where the temperatures
are so hot. You cannot drive a Delorean without A/C at those temps and
to do so without the shroud is going to make the whole car work much
harder. If you can't straighten the brackets and get everything to fit
you will have to get others. Used brackets would do fine, they don't
have to be new. Try Josh H, he might have what you need. As for the
A/C hose, if you do need another, the venders have them and you should
also be able to find a local shop that can make up a new one for you.
I think that the discharge hose is around $175. It CAN be changed
without removing the body. You do have to bend the flange on the frame
though to get the old one out and the new one in. You must be very
gentle with the aluminum condensor core. It is very easy to damage the
fitting on it when removing the hose. BTW it is very important that
the shop that services the A/C makes sure there is the proper amount
of refrigerent oil in the system. When you have a large leak as you
did the gas carries out a lot of the oil and it MUST be replaced or
you will soon kill the compressor. Heat accelerates the aging process
so anything you can do to keep the car running cooler will help it
last longer (up to a point).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Thanks David, I appreciate the advice.
> I have actually gotten several informative and helpful emails from
several 
> people
> that I think will be helpful.
> It sounds like this is going to be fairly expensive!
> I think I will replace everything that can be replaced if I need too.
> All of the stuff on my car is stock and I am wearing it out.
> Any car this age would be having these problems I guess.
> The Texas days are hitting over 100F and stressing the system out.
> 
> I have Hervey's replacement fans installed and I was the first to
have them.
> They worked OK as a replacement but I feel that they are not as powerful
> as the originals.
> I am looking into installing some custom electronic fans I have seen
some 
> hot-rod
> guys using that have some high air flow.
> Another issue I need to remedy is that when I re-installed my
radiator after
> my wreck is that I did not re-install the shroud because I could not
get it 
> to fit.
> Some of the brackets were bent, so I got it as close as I could and
left it.
> I noticed that there was a significant heat build up in the trunk.
> 






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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 10:05:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Power issues (electrical)

I have one of John's alternators on my car.  While I
am quite pleased with it, I do notice that at idle I
also get some dimming of lights if other electrical
systems are on.  In a current issue of Car Craft (I
think), there is an article about "one wire"
alternators vs "three wire" alternators.  Without
going into the details of the theory, it was stated
that one wire alternators always have to get up to
some minimum engine speed rpms before they truly begin
charging.  The number quoted, if I remember correctly,
was around 1500 rpms.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867



--- stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:
> I had time to clean all the major electrical
> contacts in the engine
> bay. I now get a higher reading on my voltage guage.
> But, the lights
> still dim on the A/C panel. I'm going to try to run
> a ground directly
> from the battery to the grounds on the A/C panel and
> see if that will
> work. I have the D150 in my car that not too long
> ago was tested by
> John and was fine. What else should I be checking?
> Thank you all!
> -----Dani B. #5003
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683
> <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > You need a new alternator. My car had a similar
> problem. When i rolled 
> > up or down my windows the radio would turn off and
> on.
> > 
> > I installed a D110 alternator from
> www.specialtauto.com and it all went 
> > away plus everything worked better.
> > 
> > Mark V
> > 
> > 
> > On May 18, 2005, at 11:38 AM, stainlessilusion
> wrote:
> > 
> > > I've seen this discussion hit the list a few
> times but I can never
> > > seem to figure mine out. My stereo cuts out when
> I have my A/C on, the
> > > stereo comes on and then off every few minutes
> to every few seconds.
> > > Same thing happens if I turn on the fan switch
> all the way to 4 real
> > > fast, or if I'm rolling down/up my windows at
> the same time. I can
> > > also see when I turn the fan switch each
> number-the dimmer the panel
> > > lights get. Is this a ground thing?  I'm using
> the green/white wire
> > > for the main power, and the violet for
> secondary. All my grounds go to
> > > the mounting bracket itself. Didn't used to be
> this bad everů
> > > Thanks
> > > guys, Dani B. #5003
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > >
> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars
> for sale see 
> > > www.dmcnews.com
> > >
> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 12:31:59 -0500
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>
Subject: Re: AC went "POOF!"

Hi Robert,

If it had dye in it, you could get a UV lamp and some goggles and go  
searching for the source of the leak.  It seems to be standard  
procedure to add some dye when getting a recharge and if it's there,  
you can probably see some evidence of dye around the service ports.   
But, the only AC parts in the back are the compressor and the two  
hoses which run to the condenser and accumulator, so there aren't too  
many places to look!  Check the 14mm bolt that holds those two hoses  
onto the back of the compressor - if it were to sheer off or become  
loose, that would certainly cause rapid refrigerant loss like you  
experienced.  The hoses don't thread into the compressor, this bolt  
simply holds them in place.  If that's not the problem, look for  
holes in the hoses.

The compressor won't run if there isn't enough refrigerant in the  
system (which there clearly isn't), so you shouldn't condemn that  
part just yet.  While you do need equipment to deal with the  
refrigerant and recharge process, if you feel comfortable doing it,  
you can certainly replace the components on your own.  And some of  
them won't cause too much pain to replace!  The orifice tube and  
accumulator were mentioned, also be sure to replace the o-rings along  
the way.

Good luck.

Travis Graham
#06344



On May 23, 2005, at 11:43 AM, dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com wrote:

> I cranked the car back up and it started and ran just fine....
> ...except no AC!
> The fan was going but the compressor would not kick in.
> So I must assume that the explosion was my R12 shooting into space.
> The problem is, I can not figure out from where, or why?
>
> Does anyone here know what happened and what I need to do to fix it?
> Should I take it to a Volvo dealer, or someone that deals with older
> Euro cars and what parts should I refer to as far as compressors and
> hoses? Is this standard stuff they will recognize?




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 14:32:40 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: AC went "POOF!"

Dave, All De Lorean fan's have a shroud. You can't have fans without it. You
said it, old hoses and that's why they blew. Also, the pop off valve is old
and not working also.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of David Teitelbaum
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:44 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: AC went "POOF!"


Now that you mentioned that you are using John's fans and are moving
less air AND you also mention you don't have the shroud it all fits
togther into a bigger picture. By having less air move through the
radiator AND the condenser coil you will run the engine at higher
temps and also the A/C. In the A/C system higher temps translate
directly into higher pressures. Higher pressures are harder on the
whole system especially the old hoses. If the pressures get too high
there is a relief valve but it is over by the accumulater by the front
right wheel. Obviously the hose (or whatever blew) couldn't take it
and popped before the relief valve could. I strongly recomend you get

Yahoo! Groups Links











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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 15:07:24 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: catalytic converters

Yes, please do disable your catalytic converter.  While you're at it, pour 
your used oil down the drain, leave the old antifreeze out for animals to 
drink, and just throw your old tires over the fence (set them on fire 
first to really give your neighbors a thrill).  Old batteries make nice 
lawn ornaments.

All sarcasm aside, the catalytic converter will reduce harmful emissions 
substantially while having only a trivial impact on performance.  A 
display of callus disregard for emissions will only encourage more 
stringent environmental laws that restrict the use of classic automobiles, 
or in some cases even promote their destruction.



Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695                        <---two headers, two cats, two hundred 
horses
Austin, TX





If emissions testing is not an issue, you can simply hollow out the
catalytic converter. Increases exhaust sound somewhat.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 15:25:26 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Power issues (electrical)

Dan,
Battery ground to chassis and positive wire also.
What is the battery reading with the volt meter.
What is the RPM of your engine at idle.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of stainlessilusion
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:16 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Power issues (electrical)


I had time to clean all the major electrical contacts in the engine
bay. I now get a higher reading on my voltage guage. But, the lights
still dim on the A/C panel. I'm going to try to run a ground directly
from the battery to the grounds on the A/C panel and see if that will
work. I have the D150 in my car that not too long ago was tested by
John and was fine. What else should I be checking? Thank you all!
-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> You need a new alternator. My car had a similar problem. When i rolled
> up or down my windows the radio would turn off and on.
>
> I installed a D110 alternator from www.specialtauto.com and it all went
> away plus everything worked better.
>
> Mark V
>
>
> On May 18, 2005, at 11:38 AM, stainlessilusion wrote:
>
> > I've seen this discussion hit the list a few times but I can never
> > seem to figure mine out. My stereo cuts out when I have my A/C on, the
> > stereo comes on and then off every few minutes to every few seconds.
> > Same thing happens if I turn on the fan switch all the way to 4 real
> > fast, or if I'm rolling down/up my windows at the same time. \




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 20:33:00 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: N.Y. Times (PJ Grady) DeLorean Article re-printed in Chicago Tribune

FYI - Sorry for the late notice, but I did not read the paper Sunday.

There was a re-print of the NY Times article about PJ Gradys in this
past Sunday's Chicago Tribune (May 22, 2005) noted on front page and
contained on page 3 of the Transportaion section.  The only photo in
the article is of JZD leaning against the LF fender of Prototype 1.

No new info, but awesome additional exposure for the DMC marque.

BTW - on a related note, the DeLorean 4x4 (D Rex) will be covered in
the July issue of "WIRED" Magazine.  Photo shoot was in early May.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> 
> NOTE : Rob has been trying to post this but for some reason Yahoo 
is stopping him. Forwarded by request.
> 
> Dave
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: rob_at_dml_p... 
> To: swingle_at_dml_d... 
> Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 5:53 PM
> Subject: DELOREAN ARTICLE IN THE N.Y. TIMES TOMORROW
> 
> 
> 
> That's right the NEW YORK TIMES! I have been told by Times 
reporter 
> Steve Kurutz 
>
> snip <







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 17:13:22 -0000
From: "dmcgreece" <dmcgreece_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Charge for Phone Time?

The purpose of my calling John was to order parts and to order parts 
only as I had already determined exactly what I wanted.  It was Johns 
suggestion to call me back in the evening because I was at work and 
did not have time to talk.  John said that since I was a new owner 
there were some things that he felt that I would need so he offered 
to call back without ever mentioning that I would be charged for the 
call.  All I wanted was to order the parts.  I didn't need any 
further diagnostic advice at all.  I was willing to listen because I 
did not want to be rude and I am open to anything when it comes to 
Delorean talk.  I would have declined or offered to call back free on 
my cell phone had I known that I would have been charged for the 
call.  The duration of the call was probably about 45 minutes or so 
in which John did all of the talking and pitched his products.  I 
listened to the unsolicited advice and did not ask any questions as I 
had a prior knowledge to inherent issues that are associted with 
original condition D's  What if I had not purchased over $300 worth 
of merchandise or anything at all?  Would I have received a bill for 
the phone call alone?
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I have also talked to him for about 45 minuets at the longest with 
no 
> charge but i was also spending money with him each call, i also 
called 
> him if that matters.
> 
> I have talked to all of the vendors with no phone charge from any 
one 
> of them. The only vendor i haven't talked to was Delorean One but 
that 
> is a whole different story.
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> On May 22, 2005, at 6:50 PM, Matt Spittle wrote:
> 
> > I'm kind of surprised.  I know that I've spent some time on the 
phone
> > with John and was never charged a dime.  Then again, I've probably
> > spent over $1000 over the past few months on stuff from him.  
This was
> > due in a large part to his willingness to get me Eagle 
Premier/Dodge
> > Monaco engine parts.  I wonder how many Chevy dealers would sell 
me
> > Ford parts?
> >
> > Anyway, I'm curious what the actual length of the phone call was 
that
> > he charged you for.  Another thing is that I know John has 
commented
> > to me before that a lot of people call his "hot calls" number when
> > they don't have an emergency.  I could understand the man 
charging for
> > phone calls if it was to his "hot calls" number, and it was while 
he
> > was on vacation or having dinner.
> >
> > Matt
> > #1604
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> > www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >






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