From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2634
Date: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 11:03 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: BTTF Exhaust
From: "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>

2. Re: AC went "POOF!"
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Re: New here (Choke Plates)
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. Saturday Winston-Salem, NC Gathering
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. New Ownder and some questions
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: AC went "POOF!"
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

7. Re: Digest Number 2632
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

8. RE: Power issues (electrical)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Why Change PRV Exhaust
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. RE: Power issues (electrical)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Re: AC went "POOF!"
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: New here (Choke Plates)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: New Ownder and some questions
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

14. Re: New Ownder and some questions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Next project.
From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_comcast.net>

16. Re: catalytic converters
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. AC question (might go poof!)
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: New Ownder and some questions
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. LEFT FRONT FENDER.
From: "rodrael1" <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. Re: New here (Cold Start Valve)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: New Ownder and some questions
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: catalytic converters
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. Convex mirrors are READY!!
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

24. Re: Re: BTTF Exhaust
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. RE: Next project.
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 22:13:45 -0000
From: "anbrahaesl" <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se>
Subject: Re: BTTF Exhaust

Did I say louder?

No, I didn't. But of cause, it's a bit louder. However that was not my goal, my exhaust was 
in need of a repair and I choose DMC Huston's new exhaust because it also gave me more 
power and a much better sound. A more raw sound, and That's what I like!. Let's admit 
that the sound of a original config DeLorean doesn't really give you goosebumps, does it?  

Anders #10238 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Can you explain why louder is better??
> 
> --- anbrahaesl <anders_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> > I argee on the comment of dubbed in sound of a V8,
> > and probably some other sounds. 
> > However I have installed the Free Flow Exhaust
> > system from DMC Huston, and the result is  
> > mind blowing. Weather it sounds like the BTTF car on
> > not, now I can start my car next to 
> > my friends DeTomaso Panthera with out embaressement.
> >
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com






________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 21:53:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: AC went "POOF!"


I should hope he has the fan shroud! Otherwise what is holding the
fans in place? I was guessing he was referring to the shroud that goes
in FRONT of the radiator. In any case you need it all to work
correctly. It is likely that the relief valve is fine. The most likely
expalnation would be the hose and it just got old.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Dave, All De Lorean fan's have a shroud. You can't have fans without
it. You
> said it, old hoses and that's why they blew. Also, the pop off valve
is old
> and not working also.
> John
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
> Of David Teitelbaum
> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:44 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: AC went "POOF!"
> 
> 
> Now that you mentioned that you are using John's fans and are moving
> less air AND you also mention you don't have the shroud it all fits
> togther into a bigger picture. By having less air move through the
> radiator AND the condenser coil you will run the engine at higher
> temps and also the A/C. In the A/C system higher temps translate
> directly into higher pressures. Higher pressures are harder on the
> whole system especially the old hoses. If the pressures get too high
> there is a relief valve but it is over by the accumulater by the front
> right wheel. Obviously the hose (or whatever blew) couldn't take it
> and popped before the relief valve could. I strongly recomend you get
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 17:40:18 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: New here (Choke Plates)

Yes, the "choke" function introduced by the PO was a mis-use of the
cold start valve because they didn't know the CPR was responsible for
this functionality and was clogged up.  They basically replaced the
normal electrical connection to the cold start valve with a new one
wired to a momentary push button, which needed to be held and then
pulsed and finally released after 10 seconds or so to accomplish a
cold start...  After unclogging the CPR, I restored the normal
electrical connection (and purpose) of the Cold Start Valve.  As far
as previous owner hacks go though, this was relatively nice: they got
it running without cannibalizing or destroying anything else (the
original cold start electrical connection was in place).  It just took
me a lot of reading and learning to get to the point where I could
repair it properly.

--Greg
#2894

On 5/20/05, content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
> Actually, a choke is a restrictive plate that physically prevents air
> from entering the engine (kind of like a throttle plate). You find
> them on carburetors, not fuel injection, because of the way
> carburetors work. Their purpose is to keep manifold pressure higher
> than normal even as the throttle plates open so that more fuel than
> normal is pulled into the engine. Fuel injection accomplishes the same
> thing by spraying more fuel than normal through the injectors.
> 
> On K Jetronic, this is done via the CPR (Warm Up Regulator). Cold,
> throttle plate movement, which correspondingly lowers the air sensor
> plate/raises the metering piston, results in richer than normal fuel
> metering through reduced counter pressure. As the engine warms up, the
> CPR increases counter pressure, bringing fuel metering closer to normal.
> 
> The only purpose of the cold start injector is to provide a momentary
> shot of extra fuel during the cranking process. Once started, it has
> absolutely no effect on the engine (is no longer spraying). It's
> function is actually equivalent to pumping an accelerator pedal
> attached to a carburetor (squirting fuel from the accelerator pump),
> not a choke plate.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 23:20:27 -0000
From: "Louie" <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Saturday Winston-Salem, NC Gathering

Hi list,

Just an update and reminder to all that there is going to be another 
gathering of Carolina owners this Saturday 5/28. We have changed the 
venue to Darren Decker's place just south of Winston Salem, as he has 
plenty of room for the cars and nice driving roads near his house. 
We're hoping to have 7 cars, an owner without his car, and a future 
owner attend (so far). The more the merrier though, so email myself 
Louie(AT)DeLorean.com if you'd like to come. We're looking at meeting 
at Darren's house around noon on Saturday. We'll probably spend most 
of the day playing with the cars and talking, but Darren also has a 
cookout planned. If there's interest there is a local race going on 
that evening as well everyone could attend. It should be a lot of fun, 
so come on down! I'll make sure to post a recap and pictures after the 
event.

Louie Golden
VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 01:21:23 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New Ownder and some questions

Hi.  All.
I became the proud new owner of 04421 last week.  The D has 8300 miles
and I must say it's a blast to drive.  

Something strange happened to me when I was driving the D on I-90
highway.  A couple fast looking BMW coupes passed me on the left and
cut in front of me and the D, less than 4 feet in front of me.  Speed
 was 70 MPH.  In the past, I would mutter "jerks" out loud.   But this
time in the D, the words became, "so what if you got a fast car?  You
don't have class and the Delorean.  BMWs are a dime a dozen."   I
caught myself after saying this and thought, "man.  did you become a
snotty bastard because you have a D?" 

Anyway, weird thinking aside.  I have a couple technical quesitons.

The Delorean's suspension, as I understand it, is suppose to be firm.
 But I feel like I can feel every single little bump on the road, when
compared to my 92 Toyota Camry.  The D is stock.  

Also, when the D just started up first time during the day, the engine
would surge to 1200 RPM, drop down to around 900, and the surge up to
1200 RPM.  It'll do this for 6 minutes and then settle down.  Is this
normal?  The other reference I had is a 1996 Ford Explorer.  With the
Ford, the engine RPM would stay up at 1300 RPM constant, and then drop
down to 1000 when the engine warmed up enough.

Your insights are appreciated.

Sincerely,


Steve
VIN#04421






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 01:56:55 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: AC went "POOF!"

Bob

The OEM fans, when working properly, pull a lot of air that keeps 
the AC high pressure down. In the Texas heat that can be near 300 
psi on a full charge. The fans need to be working at their peak. The 
OEM or DMCH replacements are the only ones I have seen that move 
enough air for me.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Thanks David, I appreciate the advice.
> I have actually gotten several informative and helpful emails from 
several 
> people
> that I think will be helpful.
> It sounds like this is going to be fairly expensive!
> I think I will replace everything that can be replaced if I need 
too.
> All of the stuff on my car is stock and I am wearing it out.
> Any car this age would be having these problems I guess.
> The Texas days are hitting over 100F and stressing the system out.
> 
> I have Hervey's replacement fans installed and I was the first to 
have them.
> They worked OK as a replacement but I feel that they are not as 
powerful
> as the originals.
> I am looking into installing some custom electronic fans I have 
seen some 
> hot-rod
> guys using that have some high air flow.
> Another issue I need to remedy is that when I re-installed my 
radiator after
> my wreck is that I did not re-install the shroud because I could 
not get it 
> to fit.
> Some of the brackets were bent, so I got it as close as I could 
and left it.
> I noticed that there was a significant heat build up in the trunk.
> One day after a drive my bare calf brushed up against the fender 
and it was
> so hot that it left a burn on my leg that took a week to heal!
> It get's really hot up front from the air blowing.
> 
> Now, when I mentioned some of my cooling problems to Hervey back 
when
> I installed the fans, he argued that the missing shroud could be 
the 
> problem.
> I do not totally disagree however that would only effect my moving 
> temperature.
> My idle temp was higher and that tells me I need more fans.
> Hervey says his new fans are pulling 80% of the original at half 
the juice.
> I would rather have 100% or greater and take advantage of that big 
> alternator
> that I bought from him.
> 
> I just hope I can get all of this done before the DMCH open house.
> Otherwise I will be driving the Dodge (with the AC blasting!)
> 
> Thanks to everyone who offered advice.
> - Videobob
> 
> >From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Re: AC went "POOF!"
> >Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 01:03:42 -0000
> >
> >You blew a hose or a seal. The most likely thing is the discharge 
hose
> >that goes from the compressor to the condensor core. You will 
have to
> >go to an A/C shop and they will pressure test it to find the leak.
> >After repairing the leak (whatever it is) they should replace the
> >dryer/accumulater, the orifice tube, and the service valves. The 
oil
> >level should be measured and changed. The system should again be
> >pressure tested with a "sweep charge", evacuated to a hard vacuum 
for
> >at least 1/2 hour and then refilled with R-12. It should be 
tested for
> >performance and the low pressure switch adjusted. As you can see, 
this
> >is not for a "garage mechanic" as it is unlikely you would have 
the
> >proper tools. If you cannot get R-12 get another "Drop-In" 
replacement
> >like R-414a. Do not let the shop talk you into R-134.
> >David Teitelbaum
> >vin 10757
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> > > I was driving my car to a local car show yesterday,
> > > I hadn't driven it for about a week,
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> >moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 22:03:17 -0400
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2632

Bob,

You have experienced a blown hose on your a/c.  I had the same thing happen
to me a couple of years ago.  The fuel filter had rubbed a hole in one of
the a/c hoses--alas the puff of smoke from under the hood.  If you will
check the area around the fuel filter, you will probably find your leak
(hole).

Bill Lane
#3635





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 21:31:08 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Power issues (electrical)

Group,
The higher the amperage rating of the alternator output the higher the turn
on speed of the alternator. (TOS is the point at which the alternator starts
putting out current not voltage, Voltage is already there.)

Example, Take my D110, which will average 110 to 120 amps output current
hot. The TOS will be about 600 to 700 RPM'S, but at what amps. Accelerate to
about 1100 to 1500 RPM's with my alternators and you will have the max
output of any of the lower amp alternator. In other words your out of juice
( if ) you needed more.

The Motorola and the Ducy also have a low TOS because of the low amps
output, but they have to get up to 1500 to 1800 RPM's before they reach the
70 to 80 max amps out. This is marginal in most cases.

Now, Take the D140 or D150, TOS at about 950 RPM's and accelerate up to the
same about 1100 to 1200 RPM's and you will see a big difference and it will
keep generating current up to about 2500 RPM's where it will about peak out.
Again, the current ( Not Voltage )is attributed to the special winding of
the stator we wind and matching of the rotor in the alternator and put in a
package with the smaller pulley.

If you go out right now and under normal conditions and put a volt meter
across the battery terminal on any car and you don't read above 12.66 volts
to 12.85 volts then the battery either isn't getting a charge or it can't
hold the charge. Either way you have a low battery condition and the dimming
or low voltage condition will exist.
Low dimming will also happen when your at low RPM's and drawing more current
than the alternator is putting out at that speed.

All of the rated out put of my alternators are rated in the hot condition
not cold like others and alternators get hot in about 2 minuets after the
car is running. Also, the higher the ambient temperature the faster it will
reach it's rated output current. Naturally the colder the ambient
temperature the higher the rating.
Hope this helps.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Dick Ryan
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 11:06 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Power issues (electrical)


I have one of John's alternators on my car.  While I
am quite pleased with it, I do notice that at idle I
also get some dimming of lights if other electrical
systems are on.  In a current issue of Car Craft (I
think), there is an article about "one wire"
alternators vs "three wire" alternators.  Without
going into the details of the theory, it was stated
that one wire alternators always have to get up to
some minimum engine speed rpms before they truly begin
charging.  The number quoted, if I remember correctly,
was around 1500 rpms.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867



--- stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:
> I had time to clean all the major electrical
> contacts in the engine
> bay. I now get a higher reading on my voltage guage.
> But, the lights
> still dim on the A/C panel. I'm going to try to run
> a ground directly
> from the battery to the grounds on the A/C panel and
> see if that will
> work. I have the D150 in my car that not too long
> ago was tested by
> John and was fine. What else should I be checking?
> Thank you all!
> -----Dani B. #5003
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683
> <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > You need a new alternator. My car had a similar
> problem. When i rolled
> > up or down my windows the radio would turn off and
> on.
> >
> > I installed a D110 alternator from
> www.specialtauto.com and it all went
> > away plus everything worked better.
> >
> > Mark V
> >
> >
> > On May 18, 2005, at 11:38 AM, stainlessilusion
> wrote:
> >
> > > I've seen this discussion hit the list a few
> times but I can never
> > > seem to figure mine out. My stereo cuts out when
> I have my A/C on, the
> > > stereo comes on and then off every few minutes
> to every few seconds.
> > > Same thing happens if I turn on the fan switch
> all the way to 4 real
> > > fast, or if I'm rolling down/up my windows at
> the same time. I can
> > > also see when I turn the fan switch each
> number-the dimmer the panel
> > > lights get. Is this a ground thing?  I'm using
> the green/white wire
> > > for the main power, and the violet for
> secondary. All my grounds go to
> > > the mounting bracket itself. Didn't used to be
> this bad ever
> > > Thanks
> > > guys, Dani B. #5003
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > >
> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars
> for sale see
> > > www.dmcnews.com
> > >
> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>

__________________________________________________
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 02:34:13 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Why Change PRV Exhaust

Can't speak for anyone else who's modified theirs, but I modified mine
not for performance, appearance, or sound, but to improve access. The
Valley of Death is unbelievably accessible from below, but only if the
crossover pipe isn't in the way. Once the cap & rotor are changed from
below (air/fuel mixture unit still needs to raise up a few inches, but
can be left attached to injectors etc), I 100% guarantee an owner will
never attempt it from above again. Same with all other components down
there. Even if an owner decides to retain the stock exhaust setup, I
strongly encourage substituting stainless fasteners for the carbon
ones so the crossover pipe can be easily removed for engine maintanance.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I'm not 100% sure myself, but I do believe there is a similar 
> correlation between sound & better as there is between the stickers on 
> a rice burner and speed. More research may be needed to link the two, 
> but this is just my observation.
> Sean
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > Can you explain why louder is better??






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 21:34:58 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Power issues (electrical)

Oh, One more thing. We have no computer to sense the output so the De Lorean
doesn't use the other wires. If you do you will burn up the regulator.
That's why we have and older cars have a one wire alternator. I also have a
special plug to help prevent regulator and electrical problems.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Dick Ryan
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 11:06 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Power issues (electrical)


I have one of John's alternators on my car.  While I
am quite pleased with it, I do notice that at idle I
also get some dimming of lights if other electrical
systems are on.  In a current issue of Car Craft (I
think), there is an article about "one wire"
alternators vs "three wire" alternators.  Without
going into the details of the theory, it was stated
that one wire alternators always have to get up to
some minimum engine speed rpms before they truly begin
charging.  The number quoted, if I remember correctly,
was around 1500 rpms.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867



--- stainlessilusion <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net> wrote:
> I had time to clean all the major electrical
> contacts in the engine
> bay. I now get a higher reading on my voltage guage.
> But, the lights
> still dim on the A/C panel. I'm going to try to run
> a ground directly
> from the battery to the grounds on the A/C panel and
> see if that will
> work. I have the D150 in my car that not too long
> ago was tested by
> John and was fine. What else should I be checking?
> Thank you all!
> -----Dani B. #5003
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, DMCVIN6683
> <dmcvin6683_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > You need a new alternator. My car had a similar
> problem. When i rolled
> > up or down my windows the radio would turn off and
> on.
> >
> > I installed a D110 alternator from
> www.specialtauto.com and it all went
> > away plus everything worked better.
> >
> > Mark V
> >
> >
> > On May 18, 2005, at 11:38 AM, stainlessilusion
> wrote:
> >
> > > I've seen this discussion hit the list a few
> times but I can never
> > > seem to figure mine out. My stereo cuts out when
> I have my A/C on, the
> > > stereo comes on and then off every few minutes
> to every few seconds.
> > > Same thing happens if I turn on the fan switch
> all the way to 4 real
> > > fast, or if I'm rolling down/up my windows at
> the same time. I can
> > > also see when I turn the fan switch each
> number-the dimmer the panel
> > > lights get. Is this a ground thing?  I'm using
> the green/white wire
> > > for the main power, and the violet for
> secondary. All my grounds go to
> > > the mounting bracket itself. Didn't used to be
> this bad ever
> > > Thanks
> > > guys, Dani B. #5003
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > >
> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars
> for sale see
> > > www.dmcnews.com
> > >
> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>

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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 02:39:26 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: AC went "POOF!"

Point of failure could also have been the hose manifold/compressor
back interface, in which case the hoses may still still OK (simply
blew out the O rings).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Dave, All De Lorean fan's have a shroud. You can't have fans without
it. You
> said it, old hoses and that's why they blew. Also, the pop off valve
is old
> and not working also.
> John
> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 03:00:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: New here (Choke Plates)

Often the cold start valve is "hot-wired" because of a bad accumulater
with the accompaning hard-hot-start symptoms. A bad CPR generally just
makes the motor run bad till it warms up and maybe a little hard to
start. Using the cold start valve for a bad CPR won't get you much. If
you do have a car with the cold start valve hot-wired then either the
accumulater is bad or it was and was changed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Yes, the "choke" function introduced by the PO was a mis-use of the
> cold start valve because they didn't know the CPR was responsible for
> this functionality and was clogged up.  They basically replaced the
> normal electrical connection to the cold start valve with a new one
> wired to a momentary push button, which needed to be held and then
> pulsed and finally released after 10 seconds or so to accomplish a
> cold start...  After unclogging the CPR, I restored the normal
> 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 03:00:19 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: New Ownder and some questions

Replace the bushings in the front and rear suspension. By now,
especially if the car sat sometime, the bushings will be dried out and
possibly the inner metal spacer will be rusted to the pivot bolts. I'm
talking about bushings #100154. This was the case with my car, and I
felt even the slightest bumps. Job will take time if you're not a
mechanic, and pressing the bushings in/out will need to be done by
someone with a press if you can't do it on your own. Should also put
some new bearings in while your at it. This was the case with my car,
hopefully it is something else with yours-not a fun job at all
especially when the bolts are so rusted you can't even get them
out-and end up breaking a hub to pieces trying to pound it out...one
or two of us have done that before right? ;-) Dani B, #5003



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi.  All.
> I became the proud new owner of 04421 last week.  The D has 8300
miles
> and I must say it's a blast to drive.  
> 
> Something strange happened to me when I was driving the D on I-90
> highway.  A couple fast looking BMW coupes passed me on the left and
> cut in front of me and the D, less than 4 feet in front of me. 
Speed
>  was 70 MPH.  In the past, I would mutter "jerks" out loud.   But
this
> time in the D, the words became, "so what if you got a fast car? 
You
> don't have class and the Delorean.  BMWs are a dime a dozen."   I
> caught myself after saying this and thought, "man.  did you become a
> snotty bastard because you have a D?" 
> 
> Anyway, weird thinking aside.  I have a couple technical quesitons.
> 
> The Delorean's suspension, as I understand it, is suppose to be
firm.
>  But I feel like I can feel every single little bump on the road,
when
> compared to my 92 Toyota Camry.  The D is stock.  
> 
> Also, when the D just started up first time during the day, the
engine
> would surge to 1200 RPM, drop down to around 900, and the surge up
to
> 1200 RPM.  It'll do this for 6 minutes and then settle down.  Is
this
> normal?  The other reference I had is a 1996 Ford Explorer.  With
the
> Ford, the engine RPM would stay up at 1300 RPM constant, and then
drop
> down to 1000 when the engine warmed up enough.
> 
> Your insights are appreciated.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> 
> Steve
> VIN#04421






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 03:09:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: New Ownder and some questions

The hard ride is caused by 2 things. Check the air pressures in the
tires. The label inside the glove box will give you the correct
pressures. The other thing that will give you a hard ride is if you
still have the NCT's on. Replace them as soon as you can with Michelin
Pilot XLT's. The surging is usually caused by vacuum leaks. You may
also be due for a tune-up. Not because the parts are worn out from use
but from age. You should change ALL of the fluids and filters. Get in
touch with the local owners and they will help you with getting it
tuned up and checking if it has all of the necessary updates.
Immediatly get the blue fan fail relay out and disconnect the locking
module. Go over to dmcnews.com and register on the DoD.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi.  All.
> I became the proud new owner of 04421 last week.  The D has 8300 miles
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 20:27:28 -0700
From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Next project.

I just completed the change out of my trailing arm bolts so now it's on to my next project. Or actually it's back to my previous project. Last year I changed the upper and lower ball joints on my car. Now, I noticed that the rubber boot on the right side lower ball joint has split.

Taking the front suspension apart does not concern me since I did it once already. The problem is that during the alignment last time, the lower ball joints popped out of the control arms. The new ball joints did not come with spring clips to hold them in like the old ones. A quick call to the supplier confirmed this. He said I needed to install a shim around the ball joint so that it wedges tightly into the control arm. The alignment shop never heard of this. So I had the shop press them back in and tack weld them in place (I read about that somewhere). Now, in order to replace the ball joint this time I need to grind off the welds. I don't want to go through this again, so my question is, what has others done to lock in the ball joints into the control arms to prevent this from happening?

Thanks
Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 02:27:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: catalytic converters

One problem with your argument from actual experience:

When Virginia started tailpipe testing, no distinction was made for
cars not originally equipped with catalytic converters. Every car had
to pass the same emissions requirements irrespective of year of
manufacture (the idea was to retrofit them). My best buddy had a 1970
Buick in proper tune, sans converters of course. Passed the test no
problem. Virginia's emissions requirements have since been re-written
  so pre-converter cars are not tested. Same with seat belts BTW.

If you're so concerned about emissions devices, why are you not
promoting EGR and air injection retrofits on DeLoreans. They were
standard issue on F Series Volvos and surely would reduce our
emissions even more.

The mere presence of catalytic converters does not account for:
- Improper tuning
- Excessive engine wear
- Harmful driving habits
Perhaps those should be legislated as well?

Europeans have managed to avoid our EPA regulations by discouraging
excessive automobile use and providing practical transportation
alternatives. Their urban planning is totally opposite of ours -- in
Europe you generally travel TOWARDS the center of a town, in America
you generally travel AWAY FROM the center of town. Europeans have
seamlessly integrated airplanes and other forms of transit (don't be
surprised if the last leg of a Lufthansa ticketed journey is made on
the ICE). Americans, in contrast, will drive more than 100 miles to
catch a plane (no other choice...). Europeans walk more than
Americans, and not in circles around a track -- it's an accepted way
to transport themselves. In America it is perfectly normal and common
to drive to the Post Office to mail a single letter, or to the grocery
store to buy a single item -- insanity to Europeans.

I know it's not politically vogue to look admiringly across the
Atlantic these days, but the Europeans could teach us Americans a
thing or two -- without catalytic converters on our cars!

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Yes, please do disable your catalytic converter.  While you're at
it, pour 
> your used oil down the drain, leave the old antifreeze out for
animals to 
> drink, and just throw your old tires over the fence (set them on fire 
> first to really give your neighbors a thrill).  Old batteries make nice 
> lawn ornaments.
> 
> All sarcasm aside, the catalytic converter will reduce harmful
emissions 
> substantially while having only a trivial impact on performance.  A 
> display of callus disregard for emissions will only encourage more 
> stringent environmental laws that restrict the use of classic
automobiles, 
> or in some cases even promote their destruction.
> 
> 
> 
> Gus Schlachter
> VIN #4695                        <---two headers, two cats, two hundred 
> horses
> Austin, TX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If emissions testing is not an issue, you can simply hollow out the
> catalytic converter. Increases exhaust sound somewhat.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 03:50:18 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: AC question (might go poof!)

Hi guys,

I have been having some wierd occurences with my AC as well.  The AC 
in my car was serviced and freon was refilled before I bought it 
which was almost a year ago.  When I first bought it the AC was icy 
cold and all 4 fan settings worked perfectly.  

To be honest I bought the car at the end of summer and didn't really 
use the AC or heater for that matter during the winter.  Since it 
has started warming up though my AC has been acting a little funny,  
it is deffinately not as cold as it used to be and when I use fan 
settings 3 & 4 for about 5 minutes the AC fans just shut off.  The 
cooling fans keep running and I can switch the fans to 2 or 1 and it 
works fine, but I think that for some reason fans 3 & 4 are tripping 
the circuit breaker.  Has this happend to anyone else?
 
Also is it normal for the cooling fans to switch on and off every 10 
seconds?  I can hear the relays clicking and it usually clicks 
through the speakers in the car as well.

Last but not least sometimes when I hit a hard bump or dip on the 
right hand side, my AC will just shut off and I hear a kind of 
grinding vibrating noise coming from the evaporator.  When that 
happens I shut the AC switch off wait a few seconds and turn it back 
on and it works fine.  Has that happend to anyone else, and if so 
what does that mean?

Thanks

Japheth Deaux
VIN: 1223






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 22:42:22 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: New Ownder and some questions

Steve, I can't address the suspension as much because everyone has their own
preference, But as far as the idling going up and down is called seeking
which can be fixed pretty easy. When was the last time the 02 sensor was
replaced. If it's been never, then I would replace it and read adjust the
fuel mixture and the problem will most likely go away.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
P.S. Welcome to the group.




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Steve
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 7:21 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] New Ownder and some questions


Hi.  All.
I became the proud new owner of 04421 last week.  The D has 8300 miles
and I must say it's a blast to drive.

Something strange happened to me when I was driving the D on I-90
highway.  A couple fast looking BMW coupes passed me on the left and
cut in front of me and the D, less than 4 feet in front of me.  Speed
 was 70 MPH.  In the past, I would mutter "jerks" out loud.   But this
time in the D, the words became, "so what if you got a fast car?  You
don't have class and the Delorean.  BMWs are a dime a dozen."   I
caught myself after saying this and thought, "man.  did you become a
snotty bastard because you have a D?"

Anyway, weird thinking aside.  I have a couple technical quesitons.

The Delorean's suspension, as I understand it, is suppose to be firm.
 But I feel like I can feel every single little bump on the road, when
compared to my 92 Toyota Camry.  The D is stock.

Also, when the D just started up first time during the day, the engine
would surge to 1200 RPM, drop down to around 900, and the surge up to
1200 RPM.  It'll do this for 6 minutes and then settle down.  Is this
normal?  The other reference I had is a 1996 Ford Explorer.  With the
Ford, the engine RPM would stay up at 1300 RPM constant, and then drop
down to 1000 when the engine warmed up enough.

Your insights are appreciated.

Sincerely,


Steve
VIN#04421






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 04:05:29 -0000
From: "rodrael1" <rodrael1_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: LEFT FRONT FENDER.

ANYONE HAVE A LEFT FRONT FENDER OUT THERE?

THANKS,

RODNEY
3300







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 04:16:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: New here (Cold Start Valve)

Actually the cold start valve is triggered by a wire from the starter
motor, dependent on a ground through the thermal time switch (that's
why it won't fire on a warm engine, necessitating swap with the CPR
electrical connection when the accumulator fails).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Yes, the "choke" function introduced by the PO was a mis-use of the
> cold start valve because they didn't know the CPR was responsible for
> this functionality and was clogged up.  They basically replaced the
> normal electrical connection to the cold start valve with a new one
> wired to a momentary push button, which needed to be held and then
> pulsed and finally released after 10 seconds or so to accomplish a
> cold start...  After unclogging the CPR, I restored the normal
> electrical connection (and purpose) of the Cold Start Valve.  As far
> as previous owner hacks go though, this was relatively nice: they got
> it running without cannibalizing or destroying anything else (the
> original cold start electrical connection was in place).  It just took
> me a lot of reading and learning to get to the point where I could
> repair it properly.
> 
> --Greg
> #2894
> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 20:41:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New Ownder and some questions


 
> 
> Something strange happened to me when I was driving
> the D on I-90
> highway.  A couple fast looking BMW coupes passed me
> on the left and
> cut in front of me and the D, less than 4 feet in
> front of me.  Speed
>  was 70 MPH.  In the past, I would mutter "jerks"
> out loud.   But this
> time in the D, the words became, "so what if you got
> a fast car?  You
> don't have class and the Delorean.  BMWs are a dime
> a dozen."   I
> caught myself after saying this and thought, "man. 
> did you become a
> snotty bastard because you have a D?" 

I almost always do the same thing.  Cookie cutters
suck.



> 
> The Delorean's suspension, as I understand it, is
> suppose to be firm.
>  But I feel like I can feel every single little bump
> on the road, when
> compared to my 92 Toyota Camry.  The D is stock.  


Welcome to a 24 year old stock suspension.  That's the
way mine is as well.  Completely normal at least to
me.  Especially if you have the old springs and shocks
- that's just the way the car is.  It is a firm
suspension - you'd be amazed at how tight you can take
a interstate ramp or a sudden turn with NO give in the
car.



> 
> Also, when the D just started up first time during
> the day, the engine
> would surge to 1200 RPM, drop down to around 900,
> and the surge up to
> 1200 RPM.  It'll do this for 6 minutes and then
> settle down.  Is this


I would say this is a bit more abnormal.  Don't try to
compare this idle system to any other car; it just
doesn't match up.  Most cars 1993+ started to become
more computerized or EFI'd - it won't compare with the
DeLorean.  A 300 rpm hunt sounds like the car may be
too rich in fuel.  That's just my guess.  We're
assuming your idle system is in perfect working order.
 Others here may be able to offer more insight.  I'm
still a noob here, and idle hunting can get pretty
detailed.  I'll monitor the responses here, and if I
see someone suggest something I went through, I'll
back that up and offer some tips on it.  Let the fun
of new ownership begin.

Jeremiah

__________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 12:54:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: catalytic converters

[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Bill's other message was posted as message #52403 earlier. There is sometimes a little latency in getting messages moderated depending on when the moderator of the week has a chance to process the batch of pending messages.]

I wrote another reply that was apparently rejected by the moderators.
Hopefully this one goes through:

There are already two other emissions devices standard on circa
1981-1983 F Series Volvos (same engine as ours) missing from
DeLoreans: EGR and Air Injection (smog pump).

That blockoff plate in the middle of the U Pipes is where EGR should
be (there's an annotated pic of a Volvo PRV in #5939's photo album if
you want to see what it looks like).

Volvo exhaust manifolds are tapped and contain multi-port air
injection rails. The annotated pic actually predates air injection
(1976), but by 1979 the smog pump was located opposite the A/C
compressor, attached to the #1-3 valve cover.

My other reply explained at length how Europeans have managed to avoid
emissions devices on their cars by adopting different driving
practices and overall transportation policies. Perhaps some of your
sarcasm is misdirected.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Yes, please do disable your catalytic converter.  While you're at
it, pour 
> your used oil down the drain, leave the old antifreeze out for
animals to 
> drink, and just throw your old tires over the fence (set them on fire 
> first to really give your neighbors a thrill).  Old batteries make nice 
> lawn ornaments.
> 
> All sarcasm aside, the catalytic converter will reduce harmful
emissions 
> substantially while having only a trivial impact on performance.  A 
> display of callus disregard for emissions will only encourage more 
> stringent environmental laws that restrict the use of classic
automobiles, 
> or in some cases even promote their destruction.
> 
> 
> 
> Gus Schlachter
> VIN #4695                        <---two headers, two cats, two hundred 
> horses
> Austin, TX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If emissions testing is not an issue, you can simply hollow out the
> catalytic converter. Increases exhaust sound somewhat.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 15:08:09 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Convex mirrors are READY!!

Hello everyone

The mirrors are finally ready to be shipped. Everyone who emailed me 
directly will get a private email from me within the next 24 hours. The 
method of payment that I can accept are bank wire transfer (preferred), 
Western Union money transfer or PayPal. As soon as I receive the transfer I 
will ship the mirrors. The shipping will be by international priority mail 
and it will take 5 to 6 days to deliver to the USA. Shipping costs including 
everything are as follow:
USA (any state, any zip) - $7.75
Europe (any country) - USD $5 or EUR 4
Australia - USD $8.70 or EUR 6.90 or AUD 11.40
The prices are calculated using www.xe.com from Polish currency using 
mid-market rates as of 2005-05-24 12:50 UTC. These prices are set and will 
not change regardless of exchange rates. Those are actual shipping costs. 
The prices were rounded up or down to the closest 5c to make the numbers 
even.
Again, this is just a public update on the situation. Everyone who emailed 
me previously should receive a direct email from me within the next 24 
hours. If someone does not receive an email from me, please let me know. 
This will mean that there was some break in the communication channels - 
internet is not perfect and neither am I ;).

Thank you for your attention.
I hope my update will make the DeLorean safer to drive. No more huge SUV 
hiding in your blind spot..... because there will be no blind spot anymore.

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 06:08:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: BTTF Exhaust

I have stated my opinion before on the DMCH exhaust. 
Yes, it is way too loud.

Don't we have enough noise in the world?   We have
people advocating the removal of emission systems
which pollute the air, Why is noise pollution any less
of an issue?

I am an owner of a loud DeLorean, I find it somewhat
embarrassing that it is not a quiet runner like the
stock DMC or many modern cars.  With the turbo setup,
my options to quiet it down are limited especially if
I want to keep the Legend configuration as it was (No
muffler on it, probably because it was just a
prototype).  502 has a muffler, and don't remember it
being any quieter than mine.

No "noise" will ever give me goosebumps.

--- anbrahaesl <anders_at_dml_smartfilm.se> wrote:
> Did I say louder?
> 
> No, I didn't. But of cause, it's a bit louder.
> However that was not my goal, my exhaust was 
> in need of a repair and I choose DMC Huston's new
> exhaust because it also gave me more 
> power and a much better sound. A more raw sound, and
> That's what I like!. Let's admit 
> that the sound of a original config DeLorean doesn't
> really give you goosebumps, does it?  
> 
> Anders #10238 


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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 10:43:55 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Next project.

One question I have is why do your ball joints seem to need replacement so 
often?

-Joe Kuchan

>From: "Stephen Jaeger" <sjaeger_at_dml_comcast.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [DML] Next project.
>Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 20:27:28 -0700
>
>I just completed the change out of my trailing arm bolts so now it's on to 
>my next project. Or actually it's back to my previous project. Last year I 
>changed the upper and lower ball joints on my car. Now, I noticed that the 
>rubber boot on the right side lower ball joint has split.
>
>Taking the front suspension apart does not concern me since I did it once 
>already. The problem is that during the alignment last time, the lower ball 
>joints popped out of the control arms. The new ball joints did not come 
>with spring clips to hold them in like the old ones. A quick call to the 
>supplier confirmed this. He said I needed to install a shim around the ball 
>joint so that it wedges tightly into the control arm. The alignment shop 
>never heard of this. So I had the shop press them back in and tack weld 
>them in place (I read about that somewhere). Now, in order to replace the 
>ball joint this time I need to grind off the welds. I don't want to go 
>through this again, so my question is, what has others done to lock in the 
>ball joints into the control arms to prevent this from happening?
>
>Thanks
>Steve
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
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>Yahoo! Groups Links
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>






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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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