From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2635
Date: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 5:00 PM

There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Power issues (electrical)
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

2. Funny drive through story
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

3. Re: Re: catalytic converters
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Trailing Arm Bolt replacement
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

5. Re: Re: catalytic converters
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

6. Need DMC LCD clock. Suggestions?
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com

7. DMCH's "deloreans" magazine
From: Joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: New Ownder and some questions
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

9. Door seal kits
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

10. Special tool for sale
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Door Striker Pin
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: AC question (might go poof!)
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

13. Re: Need DMC LCD clock. Suggestions?
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

14. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt replacement
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

15. Re: Door Striker Pin
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

16. Re: Door seal kits
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

17. Re: CA owner in Yosemite? Vegas?
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Re: Door seal kits
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>

19. RE: Door seal kits
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: Need DMC LCD clock. Suggestions?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 14:33:41 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Power issues (electrical)

Wait, are you saying the DeLorean uses a 1-wire alternator?  I thought
because the D used the warning lamp, it was a 3-wire (well,
technically 2-wire I guess)?  I don't have one of the SpecialT
alternators, but I did wire up an 180 amp 3-wire Delco and I used both
the "light" (to brown/yellow wire) and "sense" (to small brown wire)
terminals on it.  Seems to work fine.  

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

> That's why we have and older cars have a one wire alternator. 






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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 09:07:43 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Funny drive through story

Last night I was driving the D and stopped at Taco Bell on the way  
home . When I got to the pick up window and opened my door it scared  
the heck out of the poor girl to see the door open upwards. The girl,  
who must have been the shift manager, then told me "you have to stop  
bringing that car through here. Every time you do work stops for the  
next half hour cause everyone is talking about your car."
As she was telling  me this I saw all the male employees gather  
behind her to get a look at the car.



Phil Priestley

Vin 2105
IN FLUX

http://alessandros120.com/
(503)370-9951
1(866)225-7985



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 09:22:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: catalytic converters

--- "content22207" wrote:
<SNIP>
>   so pre-converter cars are not tested. Same with
seat belts BTW.

The DeLorean is not in this category.

> If you're so concerned about emissions devices, why
are you not
> promoting EGR and air injection retrofits on
DeLoreans. They were
> standard issue on F Series Volvos and surely would
reduce our
> emissions even more.

You are comparing adding emission devices to a car to
removing them?  

If you don't see why they are different, I am not sure
I can explain.

> The mere presence of catalytic converters does not
account for:
> - Improper tuning
> - Excessive engine wear
> - Harmful driving habits
> Perhaps those should be legislated as well?

They are!  The emissions testing will catch improper
tuning or engine wear.  Harmful driving habits are
legislated by speed restrictions..  

> Europeans have managed to avoid our EPA regulations
by discouraging
> excessive automobile use and providing practical
transportation

<SNIP>

Some Americans also preach "no replacement for
displacement", and drive their monster trucks to do
daily errands.  

Funny how when the discussion of American engineering
VS European engineering (Or, Torque VS Horse power)
you favor the American philosophy.  Now, for emission
regulations you favor Europe??  

> I know it's not politically vogue to look admiringly
across the
> Atlantic these days, but the Europeans could teach
us Americans a
> thing or two -- without catalytic converters on our
cars!

Yes, they can also teach us about using smaller
engines with forced induction and adaptive electronic
engine control systems...  Or do you just want
everyone else to walk more while you drive your
gas-guzzler carburated Lincolns to the grocery store?

I am no so noble as to always do what is "right" as
far as automotive emissions, but it is irresponsible
to advocate a DeLorean owner to make modifications
such that they will pollute more.



		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 16:37:44 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Trailing Arm Bolt replacement

Is this job do-able in the home garage, or does it have to be done by 
a more experienced mechanic?  If done at home, are there any archived 
message threads or files that cover the procedure for replacement?  I 
have not yet checked the original bolts on my car.  Is replacement 
(Toby TABs?) an automatic "must do" for a Delorean owner?

Thanks,

Paul - one month owner of VIN 10944






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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 13:06:03 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: catalytic converters

Bill,

It is irresponsible to instruct DeLorean owners (or any other auto owner) 
to remove their functioning emissions equipment in order to get a 
negligible increase in performance.  And it would be outrageous to suggest 
the removal of the cat to change the exhaust note.  If people want to do 
these things, that is their choice, but such action should not be 
promoted. 

I was not attempting to examine the greater social issues of 
transportation and city planning, but on that issue I agree that most 
American cities have unwittingly chained their citizens to their cars. And 
I decided that if I was going to be chained to a car, it was going to be a 
DeLorean.  :-)



Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, Texas




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 12:51:49 EDT
From: ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Need DMC LCD clock. Suggestions?

It's a long story, but my console LCD clock is dead (yes, this is  
*confirmed* dead).  I pulled the clock and cleaned it: there was some heavy  corrosion 
on the PCB board and solder joints.  On top of that, the board  looks cooked 
(how much current do these little clocks draw?!).
 
So right now, I'm looking for a replacement.  From what I  understand, these 
aren't available at any of the vendor's shops.  Does  anyone have a spare 
they're willing to sell?  Or perhaps *know* of  someone?  Any of you guys got a 
parts car?  :P
 
In the meantime, I took some measurements of the opening in the  console.  
Appears to be about 50 mm long by about 33 mm wide.  I've  been Googling and 
eBaying for any kind of "drop in" replacement, preferably  battery operated, just 
so I don't have to tangle with the wiring (I know  absolutely nothing when it 
comes to electricals).  I really don't like  having a hole in my console, nor 
a dead clock...  Any help / suggestions  are more than welcome.  :)
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Regards,
William F.
#1366
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 13:17:44 EDT
From: Joshieloo_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DMCH's "deloreans" magazine

I'm just checking to see if anyone on the list that  subscribes to DMCH's 
"deloreans" magazine has received any recent issues. The  last one I received was 
the one with the "new" interior on the cover. I thought  it was supposed to 
be a quarterly magazine. I called DMCH last week and spoke  with Warren; he 
said that they have been very busy and that it has been  difficult to get the 
magazine together, though a new issue is pending. Suffice  it to say, of the one 
issue I have received, I am disappointed. How about an  e-mail letting those 
that subscribe know that they are behind with producing the  magazine?And 
another issue I wonder about is the "e-newsletter." I believe that  I've only 
received two e-mails since signing up for it back in December/January.  What's the 
story with that? Being the "premier" parts supplier, they seem to  have fallen 
short on these "trivial" obligations. In comparison, the DCS  magazine that 
Ken puts together is first class. Even he says that while it is  difficult to 
put together, he will still produce them, get them out as expected  and assure 
you it will be a worthwhile read. I wonder what the difference  between the 
DCS magazine and DMCH's "deloreans" magazine is...maybe the passion  for what 
he's doing?
- Joshua Schwartz
001292
020098 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 18:09:13 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: New Ownder and some questions

Dani and Steve - The design of the suspension is such that the bushings 
noted below are in clamped joints.  The center sleeve is clamped into 
the frame, the outer sleeve is pressed into the link or control arm, 
and all rotation in the joint takes place in the rubber between the 
inner and outer steel portions.  If the suspension bolts were loosened 
for some reason, and then tightened back up with the car on a lift or 
on jack stands, the rubber will be biased so that there is very little 
compliance in the upward vertical direction ... the car will be very 
stiff.  One possible thing to try would be to have the car standing on 
its wheels and tires with full weight, and loosen the various pivot 
bolts.  This should allow the preload to be relaxed.  Then, torque up 
the bolts to set the preload in the neutral position.  Note to all of 
you "tuners" out there - you can "lower" the car a little by 
compressing the suspension before tightening these bolts.  Or, you can 
effectively raise the car a bit by tightening the bolts while the car 
is raised a bit.  This rubber preload is useful for fine-tuning these 
suspensions if you want to get to that detail.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Replace the bushings in the front and rear suspension. By now,
> especially if the car sat sometime, the bushings will be dried out and
> possibly the inner metal spacer will be rusted to the pivot bolts. I'm
> talking about bushings #100154. This was the case with my car, and I
> felt even the slightest bumps. > 

> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > 
> > The Delorean's suspension, as I understand it, is suppose to be
> firm. But I feel like I can feel every single little bump on the road,
> when compared to my 92 Toyota Camry.  The D is stock.  







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 17:01:15 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Door seal kits

Does anyone know of any vendor (other then PJ Grady) that sells the
door seals in a complete kit? I tired a while ago to order a kit from
Grady but...? I still have original outer seals installed (what's
left
of them
anyway)
which are extremely embarrassing when people are looking at the
car...very worn out and cut-up inner seals that have RTV all over the
cuts and worn openings- these had to be installed the wrong way
otherwise they would
rub-they're so old they're formed...I don't even have roof seals...I
hope it doesn't rain hard for a long while! -----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 19:28:56 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Special tool for sale

Hi All

I've been doing some engine work lately and one of the special tools I 
really missed was the liner clamps. This consists of four "dog-bones" to 
hold the liners in place when the heads are off. If you don't, and you 
turn the engine and lift a liner, you have to re-seat it and this is a 
very long and boring task (cleaning it all up). They're also very useful 
when putting pistons in, for precisely the same reason. So I looked up 
the part number in my Renault manual and ordered 4. The picture showed 
one.... what turned up were four complete kits that include 8 bolts, 
four straps, a bracket to keep them on and hooks to hang it from the 
wall. It even comes with a sticker to put on the wall behind it!

So basically I have three brand new complete kits going spare. I'm 
asking $100 per kit which is near enough cost price and I'll include 
shipping to the US. I've taken a photo of one of the kits here

http://www.delorean.co.uk/DSCN1920.JPG

This kit is suitable for all PRVs. I'll stick them on ebay if they don't 
sell

Best Wishes

Martin




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 19:16:02 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Door Striker Pin

Hello Group,

I'm now working on getting my passenger's door to latch a bit 
smoother. The rear striker pin is actually too long and the end is 
hitting the door guide. There are two washers between the striker 
pin and the mounting plate. If I can remove one of those washers, I 
think I will be home free.
 
The problem is I am afraid to completely unscrew the striker pin to 
remove a washer. I don't know how the hidden nut behind the mounting 
plate is secured. If I completely unscrew the striker pin and the 
hidden nut falls down somewhere behind the plate - the 5-minute job 
becomes a multi-hour job.

Is it possible that door striker pin nut is held captive somehow and 
cannot get lost if the striker pin is removed?

Thanks,
Brian
VIN# 4494






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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 13:46:53 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: AC question (might go poof!)

It looks like the Freon charge that was new last summer has leaked out 
from somewhere-at least part of it.  Low intake pressure will open the 
cycling switch and the compressor clutch will drop out.  When the 
pressure builds back up, the clutch kicks back in.  A ten second cycle 
time indicates that there's not much charge left.  Find the leak.

The cabin fan is cycling because the 25A breaker is overheating.  It's 
probably original.  Change it out.  Part number 106085. $17.48

I can't be certain of your special noise from the evaportator, but the 
accumulator is connected directly to the evap and it's very near the RF 
wheel.  Take a look behind the wheel.  That may have something to do 
with your leak, too.

Warren at DMC


secret_jedi_guy wrote:
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have been having some wierd occurences with my AC as well.  The AC 
> in my car was serviced and freon was refilled before I bought it 
> which was almost a year ago.  When I first bought it the AC was icy 
> cold and all 4 fan settings worked perfectly.  
> 
> To be honest I bought the car at the end of summer and didn't really 
> use the AC or heater for that matter during the winter.  Since it 
> has started warming up though my AC has been acting a little funny,  
> it is deffinately not as cold as it used to be and when I use fan 
> settings 3 & 4 for about 5 minutes the AC fans just shut off.  The 
> cooling fans keep running and I can switch the fans to 2 or 1 and it 
> works fine, but I think that for some reason fans 3 & 4 are tripping 
> the circuit breaker.  Has this happend to anyone else?
>  
> Also is it normal for the cooling fans to switch on and off every 10 
> seconds?  I can hear the relays clicking and it usually clicks 
> through the speakers in the car as well.
> 
> Last but not least sometimes when I hit a hard bump or dip on the 
> right hand side, my AC will just shut off and I hear a kind of 
> grinding vibrating noise coming from the evaporator.  When that 
> happens I shut the AC switch off wait a few seconds and turn it back 
> on and it works fine.  Has that happend to anyone else, and if so 
> what does that mean?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Japheth Deaux
> VIN: 1223
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 19:32:32 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Need DMC LCD clock. Suggestions?

What is the story on these little LED clocks?  I have a 1982 
Delorean, VIN 10944, and there is no clock, just a blank console in 
this area.  Was this an option in the cars, or abandoned in later 
models?  Just curious.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, ComposerZelgadis_at_dml_a... wrote:
> It's a long story, but my console LCD clock is dead (yes, this is  
> *confirmed* dead).  I pulled the clock and cleaned it: there was 
some heavy  corrosion 
> on the PCB board and solder joints.  On top of that, the board  
looks cooked 
> (how much current do these little clocks draw?!).
>  
> So right now, I'm looking for a replacement.  From what I  
understand, these 
> aren't available at any of the vendor's shops.  Does  anyone have 
a spare 
> they're willing to sell?  Or perhaps *know* of  someone?  Any of 
you guys got a 
> parts car?  :P
>  
> In the meantime, I took some measurements of the opening in the  
console.  
> Appears to be about 50 mm long by about 33 mm wide.  I've  been 
Googling and 
> eBaying for any kind of "drop in" replacement, preferably  battery 
operated, just 
> so I don't have to tangle with the wiring (I know  absolutely 
nothing when it 
> comes to electricals).  I really don't like  having a hole in my 
console, nor 
> a dead clock...  Any help / suggestions  are more than welcome.  :)
>  
> Thanks in advance.
>  
> Regards,
> William F.
> #1366
>  
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 19:53:15 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt replacement

Paul - There was a poll done on the DML a few years ago regarding the 
experiences out there with the trailing arm bolts.  Out of those who 
responded (well over 100 people as I recall), about 1/3 had some form 
of failure (bent, broken, seriously corroded, seized in place with 
rust, etc.), 1/3 had inspected and found no problems (yet), and 1/3 
didn't know or didn't care (blissful ignorance).  In my opinion (and I 
might be a little bit biased), I think that every prudent and 
thoughtful DeLorean owner should know exactly what the condition of 
these bolts are in their car, knowing that the bolts will corrode, 
bend, (or worse) eventually.  The bolts can be changed by the typical 
DeLorean owner with moderate mechanical skills, some basic tools, ramps 
and jacks.  There have been several articles written in the DML and 
elsewhere on "how to", and every purchase of TOBY-TAB's comes with 
detailed instructions.  The only complication comes when an automatic 
transmission is involved.  The driver's side bolt is a little more 
difficult to replace due to interference with the transmission 
housing.  I hope this has been helpful.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> Is this job do-able in the home garage, or does it have to be done by 
> a more experienced mechanic?  If done at home, are there any archived 
> message threads or files that cover the procedure for replacement?  I 
> have not yet checked the original bolts on my car.  Is replacement 
> (Toby TABs?) an automatic "must do" for a Delorean owner?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul - one month owner of VIN 10944






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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 20:01:19 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Door Striker Pin

Brian - The striker pin threads into a captive nut, so you can remove 
the pin without fear.  I have seen many cars with the same symptom as 
yours - the rear pin riding on the guides or hitting the plastic 
latch parts.  In fact, a couple of people have actually cut off a bit 
of the pin to shorten it up a bit even after removing any extra 
washers.  Hmmmm.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248  "Winged1"
DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
www.delorean-parts.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Hello Group,
> 
> I'm now working on getting my passenger's door to latch a bit 
> smoother. The rear striker pin is actually too long and the end is 
> hitting the door guide. There are two washers between the striker 
> pin and the mounting plate. If I can remove one of those washers, I 
> think I will be home free.
>  
> The problem is I am afraid to completely unscrew the striker pin to 
> remove a washer. I don't know how the hidden nut behind the 
mounting 
> plate is secured. If I completely unscrew the striker pin and the 
> hidden nut falls down somewhere behind the plate - the 5-minute job 
> becomes a multi-hour job.
> 
> Is it possible that door striker pin nut is held captive somehow 
and 
> cannot get lost if the striker pin is removed?
> 
> Thanks,
> Brian
> VIN# 4494






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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 15:14:43 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Door seal kits

Here comes the cavalry.  Part number K111666, Door Seal Kit, Early 
Style, $449.00.
Consists of all door rubber: Inner seals, glue-on outer seals, roof and 
sill seals. I don't have a pic, but it's all NOS except the rear outer 
seals which are custom-cut from new seal stock and the inner seals which 
are new.

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax


stainlessilusion wrote:
> Does anyone know of any vendor (other then PJ Grady) that sells the
> door seals in a complete kit? I tired a while ago to order a kit from
> Grady but...? I still have original outer seals installed (what's
> left
> of them
> anyway)
> which are extremely embarrassing when people are looking at the
> car...very worn out and cut-up inner seals that have RTV all over the
> cuts and worn openings- these had to be installed the wrong way
> otherwise they would
> rub-they're so old they're formed...I don't even have roof seals...I
> hope it doesn't rain hard for a long while! -----Dani B. #5003
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 20:47:14 -0000
From: "Marv Hein" <marvhein_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: CA owner in Yosemite? Vegas?

Same type of question here in Vegas.  D on Buffalo around 7:30 PM on 
Monday the 23rd, NV plate: TYMACHN (or something close to it).

Marv
#10820
'88CYA'

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> This weekend I was camping up in Yosemite (my D was at home though)
> Anyway, We were just about to go hiking near the base of El Capitan
> when I looked up just in time to see a D drive right by on the 120
> road going west! It was about 3:30 in the afternoon on Saturday. The
> plate was 4DDR184. Just thought I might say "hello!"
> -sean
> 
> #3231
> 'DAFUTRE'






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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 20:24:55 -0000
From: "spaceboy_2912" <seanmm_at_dml_alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Door seal kits

But what? Grady has plenty of those seals. Why arnt you calling him? 
Not sure what you are trying to get at here.
sean


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
 I tired a while ago to order a kit from
> Grady but...? I still have original outer seals installed (what's







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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 15:35:07 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Door seal kits

The complete door seals are on my site.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of stainlessilusion
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 11:01 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Door seal kits


Does anyone know of any vendor (other then PJ Grady) that sells the
door seals in a complete kit? I tired a while ago to order a kit from
Grady but...? I still have original outer seals installed (what's
left
of them
anyway)
which are extremely embarrassing when people are looking at the
car...very worn out and cut-up inner seals that have RTV all over the
cuts and worn openings- these had to be installed the wrong way
otherwise they would
rub-they're so old they're formed...I don't even have roof seals...I
hope it doesn't rain hard for a long while! -----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 20:45:04 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Need DMC LCD clock. Suggestions?

They were left out of the later cars, *approximately* when the clock 
moved into the radio. I say approximately because there are some cars 
out there with two clocks, in fact there are some Craig (early style) 
radios with clocks in them. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> What is the story on these little LED clocks?  I have a 1982 
> Delorean, VIN 10944, and there is no clock, just a blank console in 
> this area.  Was this an option in the cars, or abandoned in later 
> models?  Just curious.
> 
> Paul
> 






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