From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2637
Date: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 4:18 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Side Stripe File
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

2. CPR
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

3. Re: Door Striker Pin
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

4. Window off track...worst job yet to fix
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Window off track...worst job yet to fix
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

6. Re: Window off track...worst job yet to fix
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

7. Re: Re: New here (Cold Start Valve)
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

8. Re: side stripe
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>

9. RE: Power issues (electrical)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. RE: LEFT FRONT FENDER.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. RE: POSTAGE TO UK ADDRESS PROBLEMS
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. RE: side stripe
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. RE: Next project.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. RE: AC question (might go poof!)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. Re: Door Striker Pin
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. RE: CPR
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

17. Re: Re: Door seal kits
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: Next project.
From: DMC Erik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. RE: POSTAGE TO UK ADDRESS PROBLEMS
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

20. Re: New here (Cold Start Valve)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: NEW: Door seal kits
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: side stripe
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: side stripe
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

24. Re: Door seal kits
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

25. Re: side stripe
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 01:38:01 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Side Stripe File

In the past there has been discussion of the graphic file for the
side stripe. I have emailed two different idividuals that offered to 
send the file if anyone was interested. I've never gotten a response 
from either. Everyone gets buisy and time can be valuble, I'm not 
faulting anyone.
Would someone who has the file be willing to post it on the DML so 
that it is accessable to all? 
Thanks,
Stephen
Vin 3601






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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 20:40:19 -0500
From: "Jason" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: CPR

    Hi All, 
        This may be sound kinda dumb and harder to explain in 
an answer but could anyone tell me what happens inside the
CPR once you start the car? What do the electrical connections
do to the metal bar inside? The cone shaped thing with the stem 
and the springs on it?  Can anyone explain it?  I like knowing 
how things work. 
 
        By the way, if you have a car that has a lot of miles, sat for
a long time and then started up or anything like that you might 
want to pull the fuel lines off and see how much crud is on the 
screen in there. I was surprised at how much I had on mine.  It 
is relatively easy to take apart and clean.  I have 39,000 on my 
car and my tank was clean inside when I put the new fuel pickup
in last year. 
 
      Also thanks for those who responded about the oxygen sensor.
I got the old one off and a new one on now.  All it took was a stubby
22mm wrench, a pipe, and a sledge hammer.  I put the wrench on,
stuck the pipe in through the engine compartment onto the top of
the wrench and hit it with the sledge. Busted it free the first hit.  
Some people probably just cringed didn't they? It worked and didn't 
hurt anything, that's all that matters.    

                                 Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 01:48:25 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Door Striker Pin

Close the door, and check out the alignment. If the gap between front
fender/door and rear fender/door are very different and you cannot get
the pin aligned for the life of you, you'll likely need to adjust the
door at the hinges. Adjusting the door at the hinges changes the
closing and alignment of the door very much so, so drilling the hole
will probably be a better thing if you're not up for the task (yeah- T
bar removal). After a few years of owning 5003…and don't ask me how;
my drivers door has been creeping forward towards the windshield so
much that it eventually dented the header panel every time it was
being opened, also made a mess of my inner seals. My point is, check
out the alignment before you drill to make the pins work, you may make
the door close and open easier, but you could be over looking other
alignment issues which will cause seal damage etc. -----Dani B. #5003







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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 22:22:17 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Window off track...worst job yet to fix

One day, while raising my passenger side window, I noticed the front of the 
window wasn't meeting up with the vinyl/rubber piece that it is supposed to be 
nestled in when all the way up.   I lowered it and tried again, this time the 
window was tilting INTO the car, not even close to where it should be.   Today 
I ripped the door apart, took the window out, slid it back into its tracks 
and bolted it up to the motor.   Fixed, right?   Wrong, after lowering it and 
raising it again, the thing was still angled into the car.  It was really loose, 
i.e. I could jiggle it back and forth.   I lowered it again to try it over, 
and bang, out of the track it snapped.   I tried this   9 or 10 times, removing 
the window each time and re-inserting it, but still no luck.   It would fall 
out of its tracks every few tries.   I eventually got it up, even though half 
of the window was off track, by assisting the window with my hand when using 
the switch.   Since it is now in the proper place, I unhooked the switch and am 
not worrying about it for the rest of the summer.   Should this project 
really be this difficult?   Oh yes, I could only get one of the two bolts for the 
motor on the bottom of the window...the bracket wouldn't accept both of the 
screws attached to the middle in the bottom of the window in both holes, it was 
only one or the other.   I tried bending the little bracket to let both go 
through, but no luck.   After an hour of experimenting, I gave up on that one as 
well.

-Patrick C. 
1880
Mending the large gash on my hand from the sharp inside of the door, be 
careful if you attempt this project.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 22:28:26 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Window off track...worst job yet to fix

Give me a call and I will guide you through the repair
Did it to Gigawatt last month 
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 21:41:51 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Window off track...worst job yet to fix

I think you are seeing the decay in the plastic guides on the bottom
of the window piece.
No one else has commented on this but I think it gets old, stretches,
and doesn't hold tight anymore.
Here is how I fixed it... I think this link still works:
http://texascreasons.homedns.org/~kevin/delorean/howto/window_track.html

I did this about two years ago, driver's window, and haven't had a
problem since. I use the window a lot-- every day I drive it to work
for a badge check, in fact.

-Kevin
#4687

On 5/24/05, PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com <PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> One day, while raising my passenger side window, I noticed the front of the
> window wasn't meeting up with the vinyl/rubber piece that it is supposed to be
> nestled in when all the way up.   I lowered it and tried again, this time the
> window was tilting INTO the car, not even close to where it should be.   Today
> I ripped the door apart, took the window out, slid it back into its tracks
> and bolted it up to the motor.   Fixed, right?   Wrong, after lowering it and
> raising it again, the thing was still angled into the car.  It was really loose,
> i.e. I could jiggle it back and forth.   I lowered it again to try it over,
> and bang, out of the track it snapped.   I tried this   9 or 10 times, removing
> the window each time and re-inserting it, but still no luck.   It would fall
> out of its tracks every few tries.   I eventually got it up, even though half
> of the window was off track, by assisting the window with my hand when using
> the switch.   Since it is now in the proper place, I unhooked the switch and am
> not worrying about it for the rest of the summer.   Should this project
> really be this difficult?   Oh yes, I could only get one of the two bolts for the
> motor on the bottom of the window...the bracket wouldn't accept both of the
> screws attached to the middle in the bottom of the window in both holes, it was
> only one or the other.   I tried bending the little bracket to let both go
> through, but no luck.   After an hour of experimenting, I gave up on that one as
> well.
> 
> -Patrick C.
> 1880
> Mending the large gash on my hand from the sharp inside of the door, be
> careful if you attempt this project.
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
-Kevin




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 22:11:44 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: New here (Cold Start Valve)

On 5/23/05, content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
> Actually the cold start valve is triggered by a wire from the starter
> motor, dependent on a ground through the thermal time switch (that's
> why it won't fire on a warm engine, necessitating swap with the CPR
> electrical connection when the accumulator fails).
> 
> Bill Robertson

So if I have a "hot-start" problem ( won't start if it is sitting in
the sun for a couple of hourse and it is over 85) and the accumulater
is relatively new (six years old), then you're saying the thermal-time
switch could be flaky? What would the other symptoms be if the switch
was flaking on me?

-Kevin
#4687 (whose "hot start" problem used to be restricted to only 95+
days but has moved down this year)




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 23:23:32 -0400
From: "Steven L. Alves" <steve_at_dml_fotofx.net>
Subject: Re: side stripe

The files have the stripe with DMC cut out. You will need to cut out the vin 
wherever you want it to be.

Steve
#2700


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] side stripe


>
> Steve..Thanks, but I'm in NY State.  What do you mean edit the  files?
> Thanks, Roy
>
> In a message dated 5/24/2005 7:17:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> steve_at_dml_fotofx.net writes:
>
> You need  to edit the plot files and have a sign shop cut the vinyl. Most
> sign shops  can do the editing for you if you don't know how. If you (or 
> any
> other  list members) are in Florida I would be happy to do the edit and 
> help
> you  install them.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> 





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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 23:45:36 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Power issues (electrical)

Depends on the regulator in the alternator. But, since there is no computer
that controls the De Lorean alternator it really doesn't make any difference
if you have a one wire or multi wires..
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Matt Spittle
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 8:34 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Power issues (electrical)


Wait, are you saying the DeLorean uses a 1-wire alternator?  I thought
because the D used the warning lamp, it was a 3-wire (well,
technically 2-wire I guess)?  I don't have one of the SpecialT
alternators, but I did wire up an 180 amp 3-wire Delco and I used both
the "light" (to brown/yellow wire) and "sense" (to small brown wire)
terminals on it.  Seems to work fine.

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:

> That's why we have and older cars have a one wire alternator.






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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 23:47:29 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: LEFT FRONT FENDER.

Yes,
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of rodrael1
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:05 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] LEFT FRONT FENDER.


ANYONE HAVE A LEFT FRONT FENDER OUT THERE?

THANKS,

RODNEY
3300







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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 23:36:46 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: POSTAGE TO UK ADDRESS PROBLEMS

Alistair,
One reason is paperwork with UPS and FED EX. The Postal Service is now a one
form not 5 like Fed Ex.  Postal also fly's getting over there and the only
difference is it does go thru customs. Also, a lot of people don't know what
the cost is and then gets mad about it.
Just an FYI.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of alistairmccann
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 2:58 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] POSTAGE TO UK ADDRESS PROBLEMS


Hi All

I know that most people on this group are from the states and that
when you order stuff for your Delorean from any of the well known
dealers you would normaly not mind if your stuff was sent normal US
Postage.

I have had a few problems with ordering stuff in the past year or so
from alot of of Delorean dealers and was wondering if anyone else
from europe or even America has had the same problems.

I had recently ordered some parts from one of the largest stock
dealers who gave me a list of ways for the parts to be sent.  Because
of the problems I have had I always choose FEDEX NEXT DAY as I know
that this will get to me here in the UK in a couple of days.  When I
recieved the conformation that the stuff had been sent I saw to my
dissmay thay the parts had been sent US STANDARD MAIL!!! Why do they
give you the option to get it sent special delivery and then send it
by the cheaper option???

I have had alot of parts that I have needed quickly for various
reasons that have never arrived on time because vendours keep sending
them by a cheaper carrier that I have not requested.

Now I am not saying that I am rich or anything but I always like to
know that my parts are going to get to me on time and in one piece so
I dont mind spending that little bit extra on postage. The largest I
have ever paid being $100 plus tax when I get it to my front door.

Thats my rant over!!

Alistair McCann
Northern Ireland
VIN# PILOT25






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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 23:28:49 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: side stripe

Roy, We could cut a vin # in them if given a little time.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/delorean-side-stripe.jpg

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of lordshill1
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 4:00 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] side stripe


Hello all.. I remeber seeing a side stripe for the Delorean that one
could buy that could contail the VIN number in it.  Does anyone have
any idea as to where these can be found?

Roy #0893






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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 00:06:41 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Next project.

Steve, the information you need with the parts is on the site.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/frame-body.html
The problem is that once the lower ball joints are taken out the metal
doesn't contract so a ring and shims are normally necessary.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Stephen Jaeger
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 9:27 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Next project.


I just completed the change out of my trailing arm bolts so now it's on to
my next project. Or actually it's back to my previous project. Last year I
changed the upper and lower ball joints on my car. Now, I noticed that the
rubber boot on the right side lower ball joint has split.

Taking the front suspension apart does not concern me since I did it once
already. The problem is that during the alignment last time, the lower ball
joints popped out of the control arms. The new ball joints did not come with
spring clips to hold them in like the old ones. A quick call to the supplier
confirmed this. He said I needed to install a shim around the ball joint so
that it wedges tightly into the control arm. The alignment shop never heard
of this. So I had the shop press them back in and tack weld them in place (I
read about that somewhere). Now, in order to replace the ball joint this
time I need to grind off the welds. I don't want to go through this again,
so my question is, what has others done to lock in the ball joints into the
control arms to prevent this from happening?

Thanks
Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 00:02:31 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: AC question (might go poof!)

Japheth,
 If you will replace the blower motor $38.95 and replace the CB $4.95 with a
30 amp, then the blower motor issue will just about go away.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/blower-motor.html




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of secret_jedi_guy
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 9:50 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] AC question (might go poof!)


Hi guys,

I have been having some wierd occurences with my AC as well.  The AC
in my car was serviced and freon was refilled before I bought it
which was almost a year ago.  When I first bought it the AC was icy
cold and all 4 fan settings worked perfectly.

To be honest I bought the car at the end of summer and didn't really
use the AC or heater for that matter during the winter.  Since it
has started warming up though my AC has been acting a little funny,
it is deffinately not as cold as it used to be and when I use fan
settings 3 & 4 for about 5 minutes the AC fans just shut off.  The
cooling fans keep running and I can switch the fans to 2 or 1 and it
works fine, but I think that for some reason fans 3 & 4 are tripping
the circuit breaker.  Has this happend to anyone else?

Also is it normal for the cooling fans to switch on and off every 10
seconds?  I can hear the relays clicking and it usually clicks
through the speakers in the car as well.

Last but not least sometimes when I hit a hard bump or dip on the
right hand side, my AC will just shut off and I hear a kind of
grinding vibrating noise coming from the evaporator.  When that
happens I shut the AC switch off wait a few seconds and turn it back
on and it works fine.  Has that happend to anyone else, and if so
what does that mean?

Thanks

Japheth Deaux
VIN: 1223






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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 11:52:02 -0000
From: "bkp944" <bk_pollard_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door Striker Pin

Thanks to all that answered. The rear striker had two washers behind 
it, so removing one seems to have done the trick. I'd rather not mess 
with shimming the door hinges. The doors line up evenly with each 
other and the windshield up top. 

The end of the striker was shiny from rubbing the door guide. There 
was no doubt the striker was too long.

My door seals are less than one year old and are the larger profile 
set from P.J. Grady. My doors are a bit harder to latch in the second 
position than some other cars I've been around, but I also noticed 
their seals were not new, nor did they look as "thick" as mine. 

I think this may have some bearing on how easily the doors close. I 
personally would rather have tightly sealed doors that are a bit 
harder to close as opposed to doors that close and latch using one 
finger.

My torsion bars were adjusted last fall during a roof support repair 
job. I ended up backing off the driver's side torsion bar one notch, 
the passenger's side 2 notches. The door struts are new DMCH.

I have a bit of fine tuning to do to the passenger's side, then I
will 
reinstall the rubber grommets over the striker pins. Hopefully that 
will close another chapter in the restoration of 4494. There's plenty 
left to do!

Brian
VIN# 4494

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Close the door, and check out the alignment. If the gap between
front
> fender/door and rear fender/door are very different and you cannot 
get
> the pin aligned for the life of you, you'll likely need to adjust
the
> door at the hinges. Adjusting the door at the hinges changes the
> closing and alignment of the door very much so, so drilling the hole
> will probably be a better thing if you're not up for the task
(yeah- 
T
> bar removal). After a few years of owning 5003…and don't ask me
how;
> my drivers door has been creeping forward towards the windshield so
> much that it eventually dented the header panel every time it was
> being opened, also made a mess of my inner seals. My point is, check
> out the alignment before you drill to make the pins work, you may 
make
> the door close and open easier, but you could be over looking other
> alignment issues which will cause seal damage etc. -----Dani B.
#5003






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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 00:29:46 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: CPR

Jason, The Bosch book on fuel injection has a good explanation on how it
works. If you need a copy I could send it.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Jason
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2005 7:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] CPR


    Hi All,
        This may be sound kinda dumb and harder to explain in
an answer but could anyone tell me what happens inside the
CPR once you start the car? What do the electrical connections
do to the metal bar inside? The cone shaped thing with the stem
and the springs on it?  Can anyone explain it?  I like knowing
how things work.

        By the way, if you have a car that has a lot of miles, sat for
a long time and then started up or anything like that you might
want to pull the fuel lines off and see how much crud is on the
screen in there. I was surprised at how much I had on mine.  It
is relatively easy to take apart and clean.  I have 39,000 on my
car and my tank was clean inside when I put the new fuel pickup
in last year.

      Also thanks for those who responded about the oxygen sensor.
I got the old one off and a new one on now.  All it took was a stubby
22mm wrench, a pipe, and a sledge hammer.  I put the wrench on,
stuck the pipe in through the engine compartment onto the top of
the wrench and hit it with the sledge. Busted it free the first hit.
Some people probably just cringed didn't they? It worked and didn't
hurt anything, that's all that matters.

                                 Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 06:28:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Door seal kits

No, are you kidding us??

All of the vendors have been "bringing back parts" for
many years.  They also buy many of the parts DMCH's
has to offer (both NOS, and new).

However, one would have to question why Grady has
opted to discontinue his "HCR" angle drive and instead
sell the new DMCH drive, and at the same time make his
own seal kit when he could source them from DMCH?

My conclusion, based on the overall quality of Rob's
work and parts, would be that his replacement NEW
seals are better than 25 year old NOS.

One of the reasons I choose to deal with Grady is
because he has the information and experience to make
these decisions for me.  I know when I buy the part
from him, it will be the best value to solve my
problem... even if in some cases the part is sourced
from DMCH.

And, the name of the city in Texas is Houston...  But
DMCH is in Humble now?

--- byrondelorean <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:
> -Dude, 
> by seals from Delorean Housten, are you kidding me?
> Housten has 
> verything. I here you pay a little more over there;
> I prefer to keep 
> that establishment alive. Remember, D Housten are
> responsible for 
> bringing back parts that would otherwise be
> obsolete. Support all 
> vendors, above all support DMCH. Awesome service. 
> 
> Byron


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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 08:19:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: DMC Erik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Next project.

I bought Hervey's kit off of his site.  Piece of cake to install in your garage.  It would have been a bit easier if i had a press, but we were able to press it in and install it on the car.  Nice setup and a great price.
 
Erik


John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
Steve, the information you need with the parts is on the site.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/frame-body.html
The problem is that once the lower ball joints are taken out the metal
doesn't contract so a ring and shims are normally necessary.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Stephen Jaeger
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 9:27 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Next project.


I just completed the change out of my trailing arm bolts so now it's on to
my next project. Or actually it's back to my previous project. Last year I
changed the upper and lower ball joints on my car. Now, I noticed that the
rubber boot on the right side lower ball joint has split.

Taking the front suspension apart does not concern me since I did it once
already. The problem is that during the alignment last time, the lower ball
joints popped out of the control arms. The new ball joints did not come with
spring clips to hold them in like the old ones. A quick call to the supplier
confirmed this. He said I needed to install a shim around the ball joint so
that it wedges tightly into the control arm. The alignment shop never heard
of this. So I had the shop press them back in and tack weld them in place (I
read about that somewhere). Now, in order to replace the ball joint this
time I need to grind off the welds. I don't want to go through this again,
so my question is, what has others done to lock in the ball joints into the
control arms to prevent this from happening?

Thanks
Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 15:38:05 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: RE: POSTAGE TO UK ADDRESS PROBLEMS

Cost shouldn't be an issue if the customer is willing to pay and you can give
them an accurate estimate up front.  The paperwork is just the cost of 
doing business in foreign markets.  

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>: -------------- 


> Alistair, 
> One reason is paperwork with UPS and FED EX. The Postal Service is now a one 
> form not 5 like Fed Ex. Postal also fly's getting over there and the only 
> difference is it does go thru customs. Also, a lot of people don't know what 
> the cost is and then gets mad about it. 
> Just an FYI. 
> John Hervey 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 16:07:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: New here (Cold Start Valve)

The classic "Hot Start" problem is not from leaving the car in the hot
sun. The symptoms are that that when trying to restart a Delorean
right after shutting it down or within around an hour once it is
warmed up(depending on the temperature) it does not start easily or
you have to do the plug swap thing. Normally this is very irittaing
like when you run to the dougnut shop (or gas station), shut the car
off, and then get back in the car within say 5-10 min and it just
cranks and won't start. It may eventually catch before killing the
battery but more often then not the battery dies before you can get it
started unless you swap the plug from the CPR onto the cold start
valve just long enough to get the motor started. This can also be
caused by a bad check valve on the fuel pump or a leaky primary
pressure regulator but is most often due to the accumulator. On some
cars to avoid having to get the cover open and switch the plugs a P.O.
wires a switch into the cold start valve so he can do it from the
driver's seat. Basically all that needs to be done is to bypass the
thermo time switch which shuts the cold start valve down when it gets
hot. Doing it this way you can't overdo it, it will only function
during cranking (hot OR cold).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> On 5/23/05, content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > Actually the cold start valve is triggered by a wire from the starter
> > motor, dependent on a ground through the thermal time switch (that's
> > why it won't fire on a warm engine, necessitating swap with the CPR
> > electrical connection when the accumulator fails).
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> 
> So if I have a "hot-start" problem ( won't start if it is sitting in
> the sun for a couple of hourse and it is over 85) and the accumulater







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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 09:28:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: NEW: Door seal kits

Ken

The only thing different that I noticed is that I
still haven't received the magazine :)

Dick Ryan

PS  Yes, Ken, I know you are working on it.  Just
couldn't resist the opening you provided.

--- kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
 
> PS Speaking of inside Joke did anyone notice
> something different in the last issue of DCS
> We followed a format except this last issue.  What
> was different, there were actually three things
> different.


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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 09:44:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: side stripe

If I remember correctly - difficult as I get older -
one of the U.K. guys was offerin g the side stripes
with the vin cut into or out of it.  I think it was
James, the guy with the Euro plate surround.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867





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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 12:45:43 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: side stripe

John.. Sounds like a winner....I need VIN# 0893.  How much extra will  that 
be?  Roy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 17:11:57 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Door seal kits

Exactly, brand new vs NOS...which are you gonna choose when dropping
400 dollars for them? I get great parts from DMCH (if you can't tell
by now, I'm one of the many who buys my parts from numerous vendors,
some more then others because of preference/customer service-but not
just one), but I'd rather get new rubber seals, and also I'll have a
choice in profile. I've been very disappointed in some the parts I
received over the years that are made of rubber. Cooling hoses, axle
boots- all been great, BUT my new ball joints-the boots are already
cracked really bad that they need replacement-hasn't even been a
month! Bought a steering rack-one year later the pass side boot is
cracked and leaking bad. And whose problem is this but mine, even if
the vendor offered to replace the part free of charge, I'm the one who
has to go under the car and do all the work because the life of the
rubber is horrible. When I buy a part, I want to put it in and forget
about it, not look 3 weeks later and see I need to replace it yet
AGAIN because the rubber is bad. People have nothing bad to say about
Grady's seals, and they're NEW, it's one thing I want to install and
not have to work on again for a looong time. -----Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> No, are you kidding us??
> 
> All of the vendors have been "bringing back parts" for
> many years.  They also buy many of the parts DMCH's
> has to offer (both NOS, and new).
> 
> However, one would have to question why Grady has
> opted to discontinue his "HCR" angle drive and instead
> sell the new DMCH drive, and at the same time make his
> own seal kit when he could source them from DMCH?
> 
> My conclusion, based on the overall quality of Rob's
> work and parts, would be that his replacement NEW
> seals are better than 25 year old NOS.
> 
> One of the reasons I choose to deal with Grady is
> because he has the information and experience to make
> these decisions for me.  I know when I buy the part
> from him, it will be the best value to solve my
> problem... even if in some cases the part is sourced
> from DMCH.
> 
> And, the name of the city in Texas is Houston...  But
> DMCH is in Humble now?
> 
> --- byrondelorean <celiambyron_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > -Dude, 
> > by seals from Delorean Housten, are you kidding me?
> > Housten has 
> > verything. I here you pay a little more over there;
> > I prefer to keep 
> > that establishment alive. Remember, D Housten are
> > responsible for 
> > bringing back parts that would otherwise be
> > obsolete. Support all 
> > vendors, above all support DMCH. Awesome service. 
> > 
> > Byron
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com






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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 10:29:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: side stripe

Roy,
I believe this is the site you were originally looking for:
http://www.newoldbits.co.uk/
click on "products" at the top, then click on "DeLorean Dealer Side Stripe 'Name
& Numbered' " on the bottom left
- specifically here:
http://www.dmc12.co.uk/nobs/NEW_SIDE_STRIPE_WITH_OPTION/RED_LADY.jpg

By "edit the plot files" Steve means just that. Backstory: A while ago during the
repro-side stripe price wars, James (SonnyV) gave out for free the digital files
so anyone could re-create the wide side stripe for themselves at a local shop. If
you need those files let me know.

Shannon Y
16506

-----------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 19:28:24 EDT
   From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: side stripe

 
Steve..Thanks, but I'm in NY State.  What do you mean edit the  files?   
Thanks, Roy
 
In a message dated 5/24/2005 7:17:11 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
steve_at_dml_fotofx.net writes:

You need  to edit the plot files and have a sign shop cut the vinyl. Most 
sign shops  can do the editing for you if you don't know how. If you (or any 
other  list members) are in Florida I would be happy to do the edit and help 
you  install them.

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