From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2639
Date: Thursday, May 26, 2005 12:02 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: NEW: Door seal kits
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: 'Looking Back at the Future' documentary
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

3. rear suspension settings
From: "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Re: side stripe
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Re: hot outside, no start discussion
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

6. Re: Door seal kits
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

7. Washer Motor Question
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>

8. Re: 'Looking Back at the Future' documentary
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

9. RE: Re: side stripe files (where to get)
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. RE: Re: DMCH's "deloreans" magazine
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Headliner work - opportunities while there?
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

12. Re: Door seal kits
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

13. Re: Failed Check Valve Or Primary Pressure Regulator
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

14. Old Tires
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: side stripe [it was me!]
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. JH's seal kit (was) Re: Door seal kits
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...
From: "Digital Devices" <ken_at_dml_digital-devices.net>

18. Re: Old Tires
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

19. Re: Old Tires
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. RE: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

21. Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: hot outside, no start discussion
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: Washer Motor Question
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

24. Idle Speed Problem
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywaters_at_dml_bellsouth.net>

25. RE: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 19:07:52 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: NEW: Door seal kits

I have the magazine packaged and am sending it to the central post office 
They are going to send it out signature confirmed and  track it to see  what 
happens
This is the part of the magazine that is not fun
You mail all the magazines out then pray they get there and the post office  
tries to beat them up on the way and takes no responsibility
 
Anyway they are on their way again
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 19:28:36 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 'Looking Back at the Future' documentary

 
In a message dated 5/25/2005 5:22:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
stephen_at_dml_bttf.com writes:

http://www.bttf.com/lookingback


can you get a copy of the trailer 
I cannot download it 
 
Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 21:35:14 -0000
From: "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: rear suspension settings

Hello.. Can someone tell me where I can find the correct settings for 
both the front and rear suspension?  I need this information to get a 
proper 4 wheel alignment done.  Thanks  Roy






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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 17:40:49 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: side stripe

 
Shannon Y... Many thanks for the information and the site you referenced is  
exactly the one I found.  If you would be so kind to send a copy of those  
files I will be a very happy fellow.
 
Roy  #0893  
 
 
In a message dated 5/25/2005 5:20:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

By "edit  the plot files" Steve means just that. Backstory: A while ago 
during  the
repro-side stripe price wars, James (SonnyV) gave out for free the  digital 
files
so anyone could re-create the wide side stripe for themselves  at a local 
shop. If
you need those files let me know.

Shannon  Y
16506







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 20:23:17 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: hot outside, no start discussion

On 5/25/05, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> The classic "Hot Start" problem is not from leaving the car in the hot
><>
> caused by a bad check valve on the fuel pump or a leaky primary
> pressure regulator but is most often due to the accumulator. On some
> cars to avoid having to get the cover open and switch the plugs a P.O.
> wires a switch into the cold start valve so he can do it from the
> driver's seat. Basically all that needs to be done is to bypass the
> thermo time switch which shuts the cold start valve down when it gets


Hmm... interesting. The only trouble I ever have starting is if it is
sun-soaked for a couple of hours. And doing the cable switch, AKA
hot-start quick-fix, does the trick.

So I should be checking the check valve on the fuel pump or primary
pressure regulator next. What about the TTS (thermo time switch)? I
suppose I should patch into it and see what it is telling the system
cold, vs. running hot, vs. sun-soaked hot.

How does one check the PPR? Checking the fuel pump check valve would
be last resort and may as well replace it all when I get in there.
Thought, I looked into the PO records, the fuel pump combo kit was
done 7.5 years ago (with the accumulator). I don't see that (assuming
it is 102808) in parts replaced back 12/97, and I know I haven't done
that.


-Kevin
#4687




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 21:54:59 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Door seal kits

I did buy a new Humble/Houston door seal recently and was presently surprised that it fit better than any of the previous seals I have had on the doors. (Grady or Houston)
They usually are too "big" and the doors do not open smoothly or they want to tear at the corners so you have to trim the door roof panels. They also seem more pliable. 

Cecil Longwisch
#10663




  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: James<mailto:james_at_dml_usadmc.com> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 4:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [DML] Door seal kits


  Actually, Marc, it's very good. If you were coming to the open house
  next month, I'd let you look at as much of it as you want. Might even
  let you buy some if you wanted it. :-)

  Seriously, Warren mis-spoke. The only NOS rubber seals that are sold
  are the roof seals and door sill seals (and soon they'll be gone, too
  and we'll have new ones of those), the inner and outer door seals are
  all new stuff.

  James Espey
  DMC (Texas)
  800/872-3621
  http://www.delorean.com<http://www.delorean.com/>



  --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y<mailto:malevy_nj_at_dml_y>...> wrote:
  > NOS?  How good can 25 year old rubber be?
  > 

  Here comes the cavalry. Part number K111666, Door Seal Kit, Early
  Style, $449.00.
  Consists of all door rubber: Inner seals, glue-on outer seals, roof and
  sill seals. I don't have a pic, but it's all NOS except the rear outer
  seals which are custom-cut from new seal stock and the inner seals which
  are new.

  Warren Wallingford
  DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
  15023 Eddie Drive
  Humble, Texas 77396 USA

  http://www.delorean.com<http://www.delorean.com/>
  800/USA-DMC1
  281/441-2537
  281/441-2813 Fax







  To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
  moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com<mailto:moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

  For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com<http://www.dmcnews.com/>

  To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews> 
  Yahoo! Groups Links



   




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 19:40:28 -0400
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Washer Motor Question

Hi Gang,
Does anyone have experience replacing the windshield washer motor?  I'm pretty sure mine is fried but I don't know the best way to get to it to check out its' condition.  Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Mike
#3760

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 18:12:28 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 'Looking Back at the Future' documentary

Whatever happened to the special on NBC back in 1989 about pt 1 &  upcoming 
pt 2 hosted by Leslie Neilson? (Naked Gun)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 21:30:15 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: side stripe files (where to get)

No James, I was not the one cutting the VIN's out, those were some people in 
the UK.
They had made a neat version of the stripes except using colors and thin 
vinyl like that
what is used on a sign.

The major difference in thiers, a sign shop and mine is that I use the exact 
same texture
color and gloss as the original.
No sign shop will have this or even know where to get it because it is not 
in the books.
The material I use is not used for sign cutting, and the plotters need to be 
specially
calibrated and use a special cutting blade because of the extreme thickness 
of the
material.
However, I can certainly cut out anything anyone wants out of them,
VIN numbers, words, whatever.
I can also do other types and colors of vinyl, even chome and gold foils!

I have the sripes marked all the way down to $99.99 with FREE SHIPPING.
I have 4 sets on hand if anyone needs some.
http://dfwdmc.com/
Sorry for the shameless plug :>

Anyone who wants to see my stripes in person will get the chance to see
them on my car when I visit the DMCH Open House.
Unless you look very close, (within inches) you would not be able to
tell the difference from mine or a set of originals, with the exception
of most original sets have turned ashy and gray.

If your stripes, rubber strips, or black bumpers have turned ashy
try some "TRIM SHINE" and it will make it black and glossy - sprays right 
on!

Thanks.
- Videobob

PS: For those of you who have always wanted a real set of original side 
stripes,
I have the actual original unused mint condition set that I used as a 
template to
make my reproductions. I am considering selling them for $500.00 because I
believe they are the only unused mint condition set of dealer stripes left 
in the world.
Unless someone else comes forward to reveal that they have a set like this, 
still on the
contact paper, with the instructions and etc. parts, I will continue to make 
this claim ;P
If you are interested in them, let me know.


>From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: side stripe files (where to get)
>Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 20:08:01 -0000
>
>I think VideoBob was selling them with the VIN numbers cut in to them,
>or perhaps it was James Russell-Grant in the UK.
>
>In any case, if you just want the files to take to your local sign
>shop, then email me at james (at) delorean.com and I can send them to
>you. We had them remade some time ago, but never offered any for sale.
>We're offering the side stripe files to people at no cost, only asking
>that they not use them to create stripes for re-sale. It's quite
>painless to take or email this file to a FastSigns and have a set cut
>for you - and usually less than $70 or so.
>
>James Espey
>DMC (Texas)
>800/872-3621
>http://www.delorean.com
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "lordshill1" <lordshill_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > Hello all.. I remeber seeing a side stripe for the Delorean that one
> > could buy that could contail the VIN number in it.  Does anyone have
> > any idea as to where these can be found?
> >
> > Roy #0893
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 21:51:04 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: DMCH's "deloreans" magazine

Are you planning to increase the content of the magazine or will it continue 
to be a small
catalog filled with your full page ads that I have to pay for?
No offense James, but DMCH's magazine is biased in favor of DMCH's 
merchandise
and ignores all the other vendors.

Now, I don't think that there is anything wrong with that except I feel
that is should be sent out as a complimentary catalog and not represented
as a magazine when it really doesn't have any content other than the
mentioning of your own products.
Again, nothing wrong with that, but that is catalog and not an enthusiast
magazine which is what you are trying to represent as the views in
the magazine are somewhat one sided and never offer alternatives.
It is also the most expensive as compared to all the other similar 
magazines.

I think it has great potential but there needs to be more incentive.
Maybe some coupons, discounts, etc...
I look forward to seeing what new changes you have made since
I have a subscription.
No offense or hard feelings.
- VB


>From: "James" <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: DMCH's "deloreans" magazine
>Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 20:18:59 -0000
>
>Joshieloo -
>
>Yeah, this issue was a challenge. We hired a new designer, and this
>was the first issue she completed on her own, and it was a bit of a
>learning process for her. Then, in March, JZD passed away, and meant
>that some things had to be re-arranged in the magazine and the cover
>changed.
>
>Unlike Gullwing and the DCS magazine, which are printed on a laser
>printer, the quantities that we print in pretty much necessitate that
>we print on a real printing press. Far higher quality, but requires a
>bit more preparation to get ready for press, and when something
>changes, it usually means more than just what changes has to change.
>
>We sent the files to the printer last week, and they had a problem
>with the ink saturation on some of the pages,so I sent it back for
>re-print. This issue, with the JZD cover photo and content, even if it
>was late, I wanted to make sure it looked as good as it could. I kept
>a handful of the bad ones here at the office, and dropped one in the
>mail to you today. You'll still get another of the new ones, I expect
>to have them and mail them Tuesday (after Memorial Day) next week.
>
>I don't think questioning our "passion" was called for, but I can
>understand I share your frustration. As the editor of "deloreans", if
>you have any questions about the publication, I encourage you to call
>or email me directly and I am happy to talk to you it and welcome your
>ideas.
>
>James Espey
>james (at) delorean.com
>DMC (Texas)
>800/872-3621
>http://www.delorean.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 02:43:09 -0000
From: "gzapf" <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Headliner work - opportunities while there?

I'm preparing to redo my headliners.  There's a lot of great
documentation out there, so I feel pretty comfortable about it. 
However, While I have the headliners off, I was wondering what
hard-to-do-otherwise activities I can take care of?

So far, I'm aware of the following:
-Check water leak points as described in service bulletin ST-33-12/81
-Wiring for door launchers
-Sound deadening mat applications? (has anyone done this?)

I'd like to hear anyone else's suggestions!

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894






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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 03:31:17 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Door seal kits

Ahh Houston! I read my post and noticed several misspellings, and 
then I read yours. Thanks for pointing it out. I hate when that 
happens. 
Speaking of vendors bringing back items, I am also on the list to 
bring back the light switch that HOUSTON is campaigning. $40 
probably will never need one. These intricate parts are what I am 
talking about.  The leather seats, all new interiors, door handles, 
I am certainly not trying to play favoritism; I have dealt with all 
the vendors as my car has recently been reconditioned. The truth of 
the matter is we need them all; but DMC Houston is the king of 
parts. I am sure 25 year old rubber seals wrapped in plastic is 
probably as good as new. I cannot imagine DMCH installing rotted 
cracked or abused rubber on their refurbished cars. I would pay more 
and install the real deal while they exist.  I worked in the auto 
glass industry throughout the 90's. I installed a fare share of 
gaskets on old Corvettes, Cadillac's etc.  I recall installing many 
with NOS, 20 + year old rubber. Absolutely looked and smelled new. 

Oh, did I mention service? Your product gets shipped immediately, a 
tracking number, and a box shows up with DeLorean Motor Company 
printed on the tape.  You open the box and there are pamphlets with 
available accessories to buy. 
I don't know; something about that just makes it fun.

Enough said. 





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> No, are you kidding us??
> 
> All of the vendors have been "bringing back parts" for
> many years.  They also buy many of the parts DMCH's
> has to offer (both NOS, and new).
> 
> However, one would have to question why Grady has
> opted to discontinue his "HCR" angle drive and instead
> sell the new DMCH drive, and at the same time make his
> own seal kit when he could source them from DMCH?
> 
> My conclusion, based on the overall quality of Rob's
> work and parts, would be that his replacement NEW
> seals are better than 25 year old NOS.
> 
> One of the reasons I choose to deal with Grady is
> because he has the information and experience to make
> these decisions for me.  I know when I buy the part
> from him, it will be the best value to solve my
> problem... even if in some cases the part is sourced
> from DMCH.
> 
> And, the name of the city in Texas is Houston...  But
> DMCH is in Humble now?
> 
> --- byrondelorean <celiambyron_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > -Dude, 
> > by seals from Delorean Housten, are you kidding me?
> > Housten has 
> > verything. I here you pay a little more over there;
> > I prefer to keep 
> > that establishment alive. Remember, D Housten are
> > responsible for 
> > bringing back parts that would otherwise be
> > obsolete. Support all 
> > vendors, above all support DMCH. Awesome service. 
> > 
> > Byron
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com






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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 02:53:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Failed Check Valve Or Primary Pressure Regulator

Don't know if jumping the cold start valve will get around a failed
check valve or primary pressure regulator, at least not without a VERY
extended period of cranking. Jumping the RPM relay works, however. Ran
into an owner at SEDOC '03 with a bad primary pressure regulator. Had
been starting the engine with an ongoing stream of starter fluid for
several minutes until fuel pressure built up. Jumping the RPM relay
for a minute or two before cranking accomplished the same thing.

BTW: Don't leave the RPM relay jumped after driving. The line in isn't
switched. Fuel pump will continue to spin until the battery is dead.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> The classic "Hot Start" problem is not from leaving the car in the hot
> sun. The symptoms are that that when trying to restart a Delorean
> right after shutting it down or within around an hour once it is
> warmed up(depending on the temperature) it does not start easily or
> you have to do the plug swap thing. Normally this is very irittaing
> like when you run to the dougnut shop (or gas station), shut the car
> off, and then get back in the car within say 5-10 min and it just
> cranks and won't start. It may eventually catch before killing the
> battery but more often then not the battery dies before you can get it
> started unless you swap the plug from the CPR onto the cold start
> valve just long enough to get the motor started. This can also be
> caused by a bad check valve on the fuel pump or a leaky primary
> pressure regulator but is most often due to the accumulator. On some
> cars to avoid having to get the cover open and switch the plugs a P.O.
> wires a switch into the cold start valve so he can do it from the
> driver's seat. Basically all that needs to be done is to bypass the
> thermo time switch which shuts the cold start valve down when it gets
> hot. Doing it this way you can't overdo it, it will only function
> during cranking (hot OR cold).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 







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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 03:35:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Old Tires

There was a piece on the news tonite that several auotmakers are now
going to warn owners that they SHOULD NOT DRIVE ON TIRES OVER 6 YEARS
OLD!!!! Consumer groups are saying this warning is long overdue. There
are 52 deaths that can be directly related to driving on old tires.
They cannot be properly inspected to determine condition so they are
effectively being "time-lifed" like aircraft parts. What this means
for us and all owners/drivers of classic cars is that you MUST replace
older tires no matter what the condition or risk catastophic failure 
death, or injury. It is no longer (if it ever was) a good idea to
continue to drive on the NCT's. All tires are made with a date code.
If the tires on your car are over 6 years old you should consider
replacing them. They also include the spare in this warning but I
think that is going a little too far. At the very least you should
have the tires inspected and always make sure they are inflated
properly but this is no insurance that they will not fail without warning.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757






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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 09:37:03 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: side stripe [it was me!]


Hi,

yep I was selling them on eBay a while ago after a UK owner asked me 
to have his cars nick name and vin cut into the rear qtr part of the 
stipe.

I have to be straight with people, James Espey kindly made the side 
stripe plot files availible for me and others to use on the basis 
that they would be used for profit making.

I must admit, intentionally, I made very little if any profit from 
selling them on eBay as the point was just to make them availible 
and cost effective.

The other chap who sells them has them made from a much more 
original looking vinyl, which it really textured, mine are just from 
a matt vinyl.

To be honnest you can't tell the difference unless you get real 
close and rub you hand along them.

I have the plot files which you can take to any sign writing place 
and have them done youself.

Just ask, James orignally offered them to everyone so I can't see 
there is a problem using them.

or you can just buy them off me with instructions etc...
(www.newoldbits.com)


James RG 





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Roy,
> I believe this is the site you were originally looking for:
> http://www.newoldbits.co.uk/
> click on "products" at the top, then click on "DeLorean Dealer 
Side Stripe 'Name
> & Numbered' " on the bottom left
> - specifically here:
> 
http://www.dmc12.co.uk/nobs/NEW_SIDE_STRIPE_WITH_OPTION/RED_LADY.jpg
> 
> By "edit the plot files" Steve means just that. Backstory: A while 
ago during the
> repro-side stripe price wars, James (SonnyV) gave out for free the 
digital files
> so anyone could re-create the wide side stripe for themselves at a 
local shop. If
> you need those files let me know.
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506







________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 09:46:26 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: JH's seal kit (was) Re: Door seal kits


Talking of door seals, has anyone tried John Herveys outer door 
seals which he has on his site.

They seem very reasonably priced compaired to the many others 
availible, but none of the photos show a cross section.

I know that there are similar seals availible off the shelf, but 
none are quite right.

Any comments?


James


> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > NOS?  How good can 25 year old rubber be?
> > 
> 
> Here comes the cavalry. Part number K111666, Door Seal Kit, Early
> Style, $449.00.
> Consists of all door rubber: Inner seals, glue-on outer seals, 
roof and
> sill seals. I don't have a pic, but it's all NOS except the rear 
outer
> seals which are custom-cut from new seal stock and the inner seals 
which
> are new.
> 
> Warren Wallingford
> DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
> 15023 Eddie Drive
> Humble, Texas 77396 USA
> 
> http://www.delorean.com
> 800/USA-DMC1
> 281/441-2537
> 281/441-2813 Fax






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 10:18:54 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <ken_at_dml_digital-devices.net>
Subject: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...

Hello all … long time since I posted, but I am back and back with a big
headache!

 

Upon removing my factory exhaust system, in preparation for my new setup, 3
studs decided to break on me.

 

They broke off about ¼ “ or less INTO the head (so there is NOTHING sticking
out to grab onto)

 

To add to the headache, they are the studs that are located in the hard to
reach area right at the front of the engine towards the front of the car

 

(which means that there is the part of the frame obstructing from making a
“roomy” space to remove them)

 

we have tried to drill out one, without success (it did not BUDGE at all) 

 

I am fully aware that if things are messed up here, the engine could be
compromised, simply by drilling too far (and puncturing a water pocket)

 

 

HEEEEEELLLP!

 

Suggestions? Secrets? Miracles?

 

Any and All help is greatly appreciated!

 

Thank you

Ken

005541

 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 10:07:51 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Old Tires


I have pondered the question of old tires for many years.  This has 
been driven by questions of many of my car collector friends who 
occasionally drive their collector cars.

Many of us have 20 year old tires on our cars and drive them regularly 
during the summer.

The only repeat complaint I have heard from people over the years is 
failure of firestone tires.   My own experience is that I have never 
had an old tire fail yet?

However, I believe that this has a lot to due with extended heating of 
tires.   If you drive your classic car for less than 1 hour, things do 
not get too hot for too long.  However, trying to do a 4 -5 hour drive 
on a hot day on old tires may be a different story.

Since I put less than 500 miles on these tires per year, it is hard to 
justify buying new ones.

Just my 2 cents.

BOB





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 08:13:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Old Tires

So, maybe the Concours rules will be revised?

--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> There was a piece on the news tonite that several
> auotmakers are now
> going to warn owners that they SHOULD NOT DRIVE ON
> TIRES OVER 6 YEARS
> OLD!!!! Consumer groups are saying this warning is
> long overdue. There
<SNIP>

__________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 11:20:07 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...

By the way, if you punctured the jacket, it would pour our right away. If
you didn't drill a gusher, you should be ok.

-----Original Message-----
From: Digital Devices [mailto:ken_at_dml_digital-devices.net] 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 10:19 AM
To: dmcforum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...

Hello all ... long time since I posted, but I am back and back with a big
headache!

 

Upon removing my factory exhaust system, in preparation for my new setup, 3
studs decided to break on me.

 

They broke off about ¼ " or less INTO the head (so there is NOTHING sticking
out to grab onto)

 

To add to the headache, they are the studs that are located in the hard to
reach area right at the front of the engine towards the front of the car

 

(which means that there is the part of the frame obstructing from making a
"roomy" space to remove them)

 

we have tried to drill out one, without success (it did not BUDGE at all) 

 

I am fully aware that if things are messed up here, the engine could be
compromised, simply by drilling too far (and puncturing a water pocket)

 

 

HEEEEEELLLP!

 

Suggestions? Secrets? Miracles?

 

Any and All help is greatly appreciated!

 

Thank you

Ken

005541

 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links



 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 15:18:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...

If you cannot get at them with an angle drill and be certain you are
properly centered the only other option is to remove the cylinder head
to do the job or take it to a machine shop so they can do it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Digital Devices" <ken_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hello all … long time since I posted, but I am back and back with a big
> headache!
> 
>  
> on-text portions of this message have been removed]






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 15:27:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: hot outside, no start discussion

Make sure the fuel pump is running when you are heat-soaked. Take the
fuel cap off to relieve any vacuum or pressure. You may have to get a
pressure gauge on the fuel system to see what is going on and measure
the "rest pressure" to test the check valve, accumulater, and pressure
regulator. Does it happen with a full tank of gas or when the level is
low? There could be a flow problem in the tank, like a kinked,
collaped pick-up hose or a dirty filter. This is a little unusual so
you have to look at different things. You could also have a problem
with one of the starting systems like the bypass relay for the
ignition resistors or maybe the wiring in the cold start valve
circuit. Vacuum leaks could also be part of the problem. Check out the
vacuum valve on the water pipe and it's connections to the vapor
cannister and the vacuum advance.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




> 
> Hmm... interesting. The only trouble I ever have starting is if it is
> sun-soaked for a couple of hours. And doing the cable switch, AKA
> hot-start quick-fix, does the trick.
> 
> So I should be checking the check valve on the fuel pump or primary
> pressure regulator next. What about the TTS (thermo time switch)? I
> suppose I should patch into it and see what it is telling the system
> cold, vs. running hot, vs. sun-soaked hot.
> 
>






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 10:31:00 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Washer Motor Question

Ugh.  This is a job I used to hate.  The first thing to do is remove the 
bottle cap inside the luggage compartment. Then you must let the outer 
basket down.  It's the box thingie that holds the washer bottle in 
place.  The basket is held up the the body by ten M5 bolts.  It seems 
like twenty.  Often the thread-serts will spin in the body and you'll 
have to stick a screwdriver between the basket lip and the body to get 
the bolt out.  Once the basket drops down, you'll see that the front 
harness and its grommet come with it. Also comes the fluid feed hose for 
the washer nozzle.  Change the motor by unscrewing it from the rubber 
fitting and installing the new one into it. This is the point in the 
process that whatever liquid that was in the bottle comes out. Plug the 
power and feed hose into the new motor and carefully position the bottle 
and basket back up into place.  Screw two of the M5 bolts in to hold the 
rig in position.  Then test the installation to make sure you haven't 
pinched the hose.  If you wait until all fifty of the bolts are in and 
tight, it is sure to not work and you'll have to take it all back down 
again and make it right.  Imagine how I came to know this.
We have all the stuff: motor, bottle, basket and cap.

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1 Toll-free M-F 8-5 CDT
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax

Michael & Denise wrote:
> Hi Gang,
> Does anyone have experience replacing the windshield washer motor?  I'm pretty sure mine is fried but I don't know the best way to get to it to check out its' condition.  Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
> Thanks,
> Mike
> #3760
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 10:40:20 -0500
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywaters_at_dml_bellsouth.net>
Subject: Idle Speed Problem

Hey everyone;

Can anyone refresh me on the process of elimination for idle speed
problems? My car has recently started idling VERY high, and I would like
to finally get it back out of the garage.  Thanks!








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 09:14:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...

lets say you did drill into the water jacket, wouldn't the new stud plug it back up?????

Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com> wrote:By the way, if you punctured the jacket, it would pour our right away. If
you didn't drill a gusher, you should be ok.

-----Original Message-----
From: Digital Devices [mailto:ken_at_dml_digital-devices.net] 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 10:19 AM
To: dmcforum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...

Hello all ... long time since I posted, but I am back and back with a big
headache!



Upon removing my factory exhaust system, in preparation for my new setup, 3
studs decided to break on me.



They broke off about ¼ " or less INTO the head (so there is NOTHING sticking
out to grab onto)



To add to the headache, they are the studs that are located in the hard to
reach area right at the front of the engine towards the front of the car



(which means that there is the part of the frame obstructing from making a
"roomy" space to remove them)



we have tried to drill out one, without success (it did not BUDGE at all) 



I am fully aware that if things are messed up here, the engine could be
compromised, simply by drilling too far (and puncturing a water pocket)





HEEEEEELLLP!



Suggestions? Secrets? Miracles?



Any and All help is greatly appreciated!



Thank you

Ken

005541







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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