From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2643
Date: Sunday, May 29, 2005 10:17 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Painting Opinions
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

2. RE: DMCH deloreans Mag
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>

3. RE: Painting Opinions
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

4. Re: Painting Opinions
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Auto Trans Converter Noise
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

6. Washer Motor
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>

7. PADMC meets at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix, July 16, 2005
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

8. PADMC Spring Tech Session Photos
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

9. Re: Auto Trans Converter Noise
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Auto Trans Converter Noise
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: Auto Trans Converter Noise
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

12. Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. RE: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Re: Re: Auto Trans Converter Noise
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. RE: Re: hot outside, no start discussion
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

18. Re: Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

19. Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

20. Nology ignition opinions.
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

22. Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

23. Re: PADMC Spring Tech Session Photos
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Attachments (was 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

25. Interior lights
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 16:23:24 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Painting Opinions

The price seems right to me.  I don't know if I'd want Maaco to do it,
though.  Aren't they known for providing more of a budget painting
service?  Regardless of where you go, I wouldn't pay more than $500. 
  You might want to provide them with the paint code so they don't go
mixing and matching.

Matt
#1604


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I recently obtained quotes for painting the front and rear fascias
since I definitely do not have enough experience to try it on my own.
 The back has been repainted before and is chipping but the front is
all original and still even has the tape marks from the foam padding
on the bumper where it left the factory some 24 years ago!  My
question is that the quote was for $480(from Maaco) for both which
sounds high to me but might be right in line compared to what other
owners have experienced-does that price seem about right?  I should've
picked up a pair of Josh's refurbished ones while I had a chance!
> Thanks,
> Mike
> #3760
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 14:14:19 -0400
From: <rob_at_dml_pjgrady.com>
Subject: RE: DMCH deloreans Mag

Hi James,

It's err....RoB. I just let that "Ron" guy go so all future referrals should
be made to me...Hah hah hah. 

Note to group,

In a previous conversation at the Celebration Exotic Car Show James
mentioned to me over lunch (We were the DeLorean judges) that his health
club uses various vital stats to determine your body's virtual verses actual
age. It turns out, he told me, that he's a thirty eight old trapped in a
body that's ten years older! They say the memory is the first thing to go!
Since I'm actually forty six can I expect in two years not to be able to
remember James's first name? Seriously, James you should tell Steve to
lighten up on you, I think he's working you too hard! :)
 
BTW I mention the Florida show because I'm sure James will agree that the
show was outstanding... just as it was last year. Jeff Ippoliti announced at
the end that the show, with matching funds provided by General Motors, will
have raised 100 thousand dollars this year for "Save the Children & Make a
Wish". Jeff does an outstanding job in organizing this event and deserves
our full support. A talk given by the Mother of one of these kids about
their vacation together made possible from last years donations brought a
tear to many an eye in the Saturday night dinner including myself. 
The food at this dinner was incredible and worth more than it actually cost
(Jeff secured a discount for the group).

My point is the show will be on April 29th again next year and every one who
can should make an effort to go. I'm sure you won't be disappointed and it
will be interesting to see if James recognizes me there next year. Any one
for a wager? I just need to figure out the odds.

On another subject I regret I won't be able to attend the DMCH show because
of a previously arranged family obligation. It looks like it will be a great
show and I would have loved to go. Good luck to the Concours people and I
hope everyone has a great time. Just make sure you wear your name tag's so
certain people can recognize you!

Rob (AKA Ron) Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
James
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 3:18 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] DMCH deloreans Mag

We certainly do include the instructions with the parts that we sell,
but publishing them in the magazine serves the purpose of letting
someone get an idea for what they might be getting into BEFORE they
buy the part. In some instances, there may be some "carry over" where
instructions for one particular part/project may be helpful when
performing some other task.

BTW, the current issue of "deloreans" has ads from two new
advertisers, DeLorean Motor Center in Garden Grove and the Players Run
rally organization. PJ Grady wanted to be in this issue, as well, but
as Ron mentioned earlier, his workload and temporary staffing shortage
put him just behind the deadline for this issue. I'm sure we'll see
them and a few others in the next issue.

James Espey
DMC (Texas)
http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Why not just include the instructions for installing
> the door handle WITH the part?  I expect they do, or
> would if you asked.  So, how useful was the magazine?
> 
> 
> --- Tom Watkins <outatime81_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> <SNIP>
> > The magazine also has great articles that show how
> > to do stuff that some may not know.  I installed my
> > own door handles using the great instructions in the
> > mag.  Granted I did buy the new handles from them
> > because of the article but hey, it's free
> > enterprise.   If you were to put out a "videobob"
> > magazine with your wares I doubt that it would serve
> > you to have ads for other vendors.  You may choose
> > to give away your mag for free but that would be a
> > business decision on your part.
> <SNIP>
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com








To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links



 



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 14:33:50 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: RE: Painting Opinions

That's about the same cost I found when I quoted having a shop paint my
facias. Make sure they sand down the one that was painted before so it
doesn't crack after you get it repainted. The shop I had quote wouldn't
guarntee they wouldn't crack. That's when I decided to do it myself.

Dave Sontos 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Michael & Denise
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 8:24 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Painting Opinions

I recently obtained quotes for painting the front and rear fascias since I
definitely do not have enough experience to try it on my own.  The back has
been repainted before and is chipping but the front is all original and
still even has the tape marks from the foam padding on the bumper where it
left the factory some 24 years ago!  My question is that the quote was for
$480(from Maaco) for both which sounds high to me but might be right in line
compared to what other owners have experienced-does that price seem about
right?  I should've picked up a pair of Josh's refurbished ones while I had
a chance!
Thanks,
Mike
#3760





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 18:54:21 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Painting Opinions

--
Hi I actually paint cars for a living and did my fascias a few yers ago... Where 
do u live?? And dont go to Maaco,, they are like the bottom end of painting 
companies.. Most body shops will probably charge about 200 per bumper... I 
have done a friend of mines for like 150 but he lives near me... U can call me 
if u like at 816_221-9756..Dave..Vin 15275





- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> The price seems right to me.  I don't know if I'd want Maaco to do it,
> though.  Aren't they known for providing more of a budget painting
> service?  Regardless of where you go, I wouldn't pay more than $500. 
>   You might want to provide them with the paint code so they don't go
> mixing and matching.
> 
> Matt
> #1604
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> > I recently obtained quotes for painting the front and rear fascias
> since I definitely do not have enough experience to try it on my own.
>  The back has been repainted before and is chipping but the front is
> all original and still even has the tape marks from the foam padding
> on the bumper where it left the factory some 24 years ago!  My
> question is that the quote was for $480(from Maaco) for both which
> sounds high to me but might be right in line compared to what other
> owners have experienced-does that price seem about right?  I should've
> picked up a pair of Josh's refurbished ones while I had a chance!
> > Thanks,
> > Mike
> > #3760
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 19:12:28 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Auto Trans Converter Noise

I've been chasing down a mysterious noise from my recently-re-
installed engine in my automatic project car. All I did to the trans 
was replace the torque converter seal and some general clean-up, new 
gaskets, o-rings, etc. 

The problem I'm having is a hellacious noise from, apparently, within 
the torque converter. It sounds a lot like a dry scraping noise, in 
fact first we thought maybe oil starvation in the engine somewhere. 
I've now gotten under the car while running on a lift and it's 
definitely the converter. The other related, odd symptom is that, 
with the engine off, trans in-gear, turning the axles (together) 
causes what sounds like a gurgling noise in the coverter itself. 
Obviously in the process of changing the seal the converter was off 
the trans and most of the oil ran out of it. So - it seems that the 
converter is full of air as well as fluid. The car does drive OK, it 
just makes this very scary noise that could well be a much louder 
version of the gurgling noise that I can get with the engine off. 

Is there something that I should be doing to bleed the converter? Is 
this a symptom of some greater problem? I've been into a few non-DMC 
automatics and never seen anything like this. 

Dave Swingle






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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 15:51:43 -0400
From: "Michael & Denise" <luckeys71_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Washer Motor

Thanks for the advice on the washer motor-all of my bolts are completely rusted so I'm going to soak them with PB Blaster for a few days and take it from there.  Hmmm...was it really necessary to have all of those bolts to hold up a washer bottle and motor or did the engineers just want to mess with future owners as they struggled with them?:)
Mike
#3760

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 17:50:10 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: PADMC meets at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix, July 16, 2005

Join the Pittsburgh Area DeLorean Maintenance Club at the Pittsburgh Vintage
Grand Prix, July 16, 2005.

Since 1983, the  <http://www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com> Pittsburgh
Vintage Grand Prix has raised vitally needed funds for the Autism Society of
Pittsburgh and Allegheny Valley School. This event has grown from a one-day
vintage race in Schenley Park to a 10-day festival of races, car shows and
motorsport events. The PVGP has become a nationally recognized event on the
vintage racing circuit.

The PVGP car show on July 16, 2005 is one of the largest events of its type
on the east coast.  Sports cars, exotics, antiques, and more all join
together on the rolling hills of the Schenley Park golf course for a
Concours d'Casual numbering in the thousands of vehicles.  Ferraris,
Porsches, Lamborghinis, and others will be joining the PADMC for an event
like none other -- a world class car show and hair-raising vintage
automobile racing through the real city streets of Pittsburgh's Schenley
Park.

Make plans now to attend the 25th Annual British Car Day at the PVGP.  We
expect around 20 or more DeLoreans to attend.  Registration is only $15, and
benefits the Autism Society of Pittsburgh and Allegheny Valley School.
Please click
<http://pvgp.schoolwires.com/674693314192049/lib/674693314192049/British_Car
_Day_2005.pdf>  here for the registration form.

 

-Dave



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 17:53:31 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: PADMC Spring Tech Session Photos

Hi All,

 

I have posted some photos of the May 21st Tech Session at
http://padmc.projectvixen.com/events/20050521   

 

Thanks to all who attended the event - it was truly our best yet!

 

-Dave



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 22:39:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans Converter Noise

Make sure none of the covers are touching the converter. Make sure you
didn't accidently stick a wrong length bolt in a spot where it could
be touching the torque converter. Make sure when you reinstalled the
torque converter it went all the way on, it did not hang up and is
completely inserted into the trans. It is possible the converter went
bad. On the origional converters there is a plastic thrust washer,
maybe by disturbing the converter you knocked it out of place and it
died. Do not run the motor if it is making a racket. Take it back
apart and find the cause. If it is coming from inside the converter
they can be rebuilt. The can also be replaced. The shaft for the fluid
pump goes right through the converter, maybe you didn't position it
right? In any case if things are rubbing in there then you are making
metal dust and the trans will not like it, eventually wearing put
prematurely. Pull the pan and see what is collecting on the magnet.
There is no way and no need to bleed the converter, in fact there is
no drain plug. Check and see if all the bolts holding the torque
converter to the flex plate (starter gear) are tight. Maybe one is
loose and the head is scraping around the inside of the housing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I've been chasing down a mysterious noise from my recently-re-
> installed engine in my automatic project car. All I did to the trans 
> was replace the torque converter seal and some general clean-up, new 
> gaskets, o-rings, etc. 
> 
> The problem I'm having is a hellacious noise from, apparently, within 
> the torque converter. It sounds a lot like a dry scraping noise, in 
> fact first we thought maybe oil starvation in the engine somewhere. 
> I've now gotten under the car while running on a lift and it's 
> definitely the converter. The other related, odd symptom is that, 
> with the engine off, trans in-gear, turning the axles (together) 
> causes what sounds like a gurgling noise in the coverter itself. 
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 23:32:58 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans Converter Noise

Did the flex-plate get damaged in the process?

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I've been chasing down a mysterious noise from my recently-re-
> installed engine in my automatic project car. All I did to the 
trans 
> was replace the torque converter seal and some general clean-up, 
new 
> gaskets, o-rings, etc. 
> 
> The problem I'm having is a hellacious noise from, apparently, 
within 
> the torque converter. It sounds a lot like a dry scraping noise, 
in 
> fact first we thought maybe oil starvation in the engine 
somewhere. 
> I've now gotten under the car while running on a lift and it's 
> definitely the converter. The other related, odd symptom is that, 
> with the engine off, trans in-gear, turning the axles (together) 
> causes what sounds like a gurgling noise in the coverter itself. 
> Obviously in the process of changing the seal the converter was 
off 
> the trans and most of the oil ran out of it. So - it seems that 
the 
> converter is full of air as well as fluid. The car does drive OK, 
it 
> just makes this very scary noise that could well be a much louder 
> version of the gurgling noise that I can get with the engine off. 
> 
> Is there something that I should be doing to bleed the converter? 
Is 
> this a symptom of some greater problem? I've been into a few non-
DMC 
> automatics and never seen anything like this. 
> 
> Dave Swingle






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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 01:04:34 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans Converter Noise

If it did, I have no idea how. I joined it together on the floor, and 
the converter spun free after joining it. So I doubt I broke 
anything. I've heard a car with a broken flexplate and it's not that 
kind of noise.

I'm going to start tearing into things in the next day or so. 
Luckily, everything that I need to check becomes more visible as I 
remove things.

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> Did the flex-plate get damaged in the process?
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > I've been chasing down a mysterious noise from my recently-re-
> > installed engine in my automatic project car. All I did to the 
> trans 
> > was replace the torque converter seal and some general clean-up, 
> new 
> > gaskets, o-rings, etc. 
> > 
> > The problem I'm having is a hellacious noise from, apparently, 
> within 
> > the torque converter. It sounds a lot like a dry scraping noise, 
> in 
> > fact first we thought maybe oil starvation in the engine 
> somewhere. 
> > I've now gotten under the car while running on a lift and it's 
> > definitely the converter. The other related, odd symptom is that, 
> > with the engine off, trans in-gear, turning the axles (together) 
> > causes what sounds like a gurgling noise in the coverter itself. 
> > Obviously in the process of changing the seal the converter was 
> off 
> > the trans and most of the oil ran out of it. So - it seems that 
> the 
> > converter is full of air as well as fluid. The car does drive OK, 
> it 
> > just makes this very scary noise that could well be a much louder 
> > version of the gurgling noise that I can get with the engine off. 
> > 
> > Is there something that I should be doing to bleed the converter? 
> Is 
> > this a symptom of some greater problem? I've been into a few non-
> DMC 
> > automatics and never seen anything like this. 
> > 
> > Dave Swingle






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 01:18:09 -0000
From: "usndmc" <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start

Hey all,

I went out and upgraded my original 25 and 35 amp blower motor and 
cooling fan circuit breakers to the 30 and 40 amp ones that I hear are 
recommended. I had to modify the wiring from the original male quick 
disconnect tabs to the post connectors to work with my new ones. I 
made sure not to mix up which wires connected to which posts, but when 
I finished and tried to start the car nothing happened. Turn the key, 
and the dash lights and radio and console clock all come on and I hear 
the click from the relay compartment but after that, nothing. No 
starter, no fuel pump. I unplugged and reconnected the RPM relay, 
checked that all the other relays were secure in their sockets, and 
checked all the fuses. What did I do?????

Thanks for any help!
Dave
#5968






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 21:24:26 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start

You must have knocked off the connection for the main relay or aux relay.
The only other thing I can think of would be some kind of different CB. Undo
the battery and check for continuity across the circuit breakers post or
connect the battery and turn on the key and check for voltage at the CB
terminals.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of usndmc
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 7:18 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start


Hey all,

I went out and upgraded my original 25 and 35 amp blower motor and
cooling fan circuit breakers to the 30 and 40 amp ones that I hear are
recommended. I had to modify the wiring from the original male quick
disconnect tabs to the post connectors to work with my new ones. I
made sure not to mix up which wires connected to which posts, but when
I finished and tried to start the car nothing happened. Turn the key,
and the dash lights and radio and console clock all come on and I hear
the click from the relay compartment but after that, nothing. No
starter, no fuel pump. I unplugged and reconnected the RPM relay,
checked that all the other relays were secure in their sockets, and
checked all the fuses. What did I do?????

Thanks for any help!
Dave
#5968






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 22:45:24 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Auto Trans Converter Noise

 
In a message dated 05/28/2005 7:08:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net writes:

> The  problem I'm having is a hellacious noise from, apparently, within 
> the  torque converter. It sounds a lot like a dry scraping noise, in 
> fact  first we thought maybe oil starvation in the engine somewhere. 
> I've  now gotten under the car while running on a lift and it's 
> definitely  the converter. 


Dave,
 
When you pull the transmission, make sure that the torque converter is  
positioned all the way to the front pump shaft seal. Spin the T/Q until  it's 
seated in place, as the T/Q wants to stop on the lower set. Make sure  it is full 
of fluid too.
 
Sincerely Yours,
Michael Pack 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 23:07:39 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay

Can anyone in the Waterville Ohio area check this car out for me?
If I buy the car, I'll pay you for your time.
 
Sincerely,
Mike Pack


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 21:10:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start

I remember I had the identical same problem.  There is
a circuit breaker with 4 brown wires that all connect
to the breaker - I believe it's the cooling fan
breaker.  One of my wires had slipped off this circuit
breaker.  For whatever reasons, the ends of the wires
had become extremely loose, and the brown wires would
have a tendency to slip off all by themselves.  Go
back and check to make sure none of them fell off.  If
they are all firmly attached, I would suggest changing
the wires around the posts - WITH CAUTION.  I have no
idea if there is any electrical danger in doing that -
do so at YOUR OWN risk.  I hold no responsibility.

The reason I suggest that is when I got my new dome
light from DMCH, I replaced the wires EXACTLY in the
same spots - similar to what you did for your job. 
Turn the light one way, worked - the other way -
nothing.  Flipped the wires around the terminals
systematically and I eventually got the right
combination.  Not saying it was Houston's fault; it
just worked out that way for me.

Keep us updated in whatever happens!

Jeremiah 

--- usndmc <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
> 
> I went out and upgraded my original 25 and 35 amp
> blower motor and 
> cooling fan circuit breakers to the 30 and 40 amp
> ones that I hear are 
> recommended. I had to modify the wiring from the
> original male quick 
> disconnect tabs to the post connectors to work with
> my new ones. I 
> made sure not to mix up which wires connected to
> which posts, but when 
> I finished and tried to start the car nothing
> happened. 

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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 21:51:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: hot outside, no start discussion

I find it best to run the a pressure gage on my system most of the
time.  Thus, I bought a bosh setup from J.C. Whitney for about $55.00. 
It's worked great for over 5 years and a great help when something acts
up on the fuel system.  There's been several times I've had a fuel
related problem and was able to do an instant diagnosis because the
gage was installed (like when the rpm gage failed, and the inertia sw
failed, and the fuel pumpfuse blew, and the fuel pump failed, and the
contacts corroded on the fuel pump connector, and I had to diagnose
problems with the ECU, and when the ignition system failed and I was
able to eliminate the fuel system as a cause, (2 separate times/causes)
and etc, and etc, etc  (- get the idea?)

Woody







		
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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 22:08:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud NIGHTMARE! Please Help ...

I have mentioned this before and must emphasize, IT IS NOT FOR THE
FAINT HEARTED.

Prior to doing this on my D, I had done this several times on cast
engine heads with 100% success, so decided to try it on my D's Al
block.

I heated the stud slightly past red-hot to melting hot with a torch and
hit the air.  Out came the most of the stud.  I then used a tap to
finish cleaning the hole and inserted a stud.  Also used anti-seize and
found, 15 years later that this made a big difference in remove the
stud (the nut was rusted but the stud came out easily).

I had an extra head so I was willing to take the risk of damaging the
head, but might not have been willing to take the risk if I did not
have a spare to trash, so please take this into consideration.

Woody

p.s.  I have since had 100% using Mape gas to head the studs/nuts prior
to removal where anti-seize was not previously applied.



		
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 09:50:44 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start

Early cars had a recall to re-wire the relay that powers the starter 
solenoid and the connection is sent to the fan speed circuit breaker. 
Later cars had this as standard. You need to check that connection - if 
you read up these instructions, you should be able to find the relay and 
trace that wire

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/starterfix.html

With this connection off, you'll get the symptoms you describe. The fuel 
pump should not switch on until the engine actually cranks.

Martin

usndmc wrote:

>Hey all,
>
>I went out and upgraded my original 25 and 35 amp blower motor and 
>cooling fan circuit breakers to the 30 and 40 amp ones that I hear are 
>recommended. I had to modify the wiring from the original male quick 
>disconnect tabs to the post connectors to work with my new ones. I 
>made sure not to mix up which wires connected to which posts, but when 
>I finished and tried to start the car nothing happened. Turn the key, 
>and the dash lights and radio and console clock all come on and I hear 
>the click from the relay compartment but after that, nothing. No 
>starter, no fuel pump. I unplugged and reconnected the RPM relay, 
>checked that all the other relays were secure in their sockets, and 
>checked all the fuses. What did I do?????
>
>Thanks for any help!
>Dave
>#5968
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 09:33:57 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Nology ignition opinions.

Hey everyone, I am looking for opinions about the Nology ignition 
system (as shown on the DMCH website). Does anyone think that this 
system would improve performance? is it more expensive than its worth?

you can respond privately if you want.

thanks!

adam
16683






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 12:16:29 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay

Do you not think the car looks a bit dodgy? The rust on the frame is really bad for a car with 725 miles, and the interior looks like it has seen a few thousand miles. The shift boot also looks like it has seen more than 725 miles.
 
Thomas
Vin 4087

Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
Can anyone in the Waterville Ohio area check this car out for me?
If I buy the car, I'll pay you for your time.

Sincerely,
Mike Pack


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 09:53:33 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start

Enid/Jeremiah wrote:

>The reason I suggest that is when I got my new dome
>light from DMCH, I replaced the wires EXACTLY in the
>same spots - similar to what you did for your job. 
>Turn the light one way, worked - the other way -
>nothing.  Flipped the wires around the terminals
>systematically and I eventually got the right
>combination.  Not saying it was Houston's fault; it
>just worked out that way for me.
>  
>
I've seen loads of cars with this fault. It's a simple matter of someone 
not knowing what they were doing previously and you can see why.

FOR THE RECORD

Interior lights are wired with the PURPLE wire as the common wire. On 
original lights, this means the single pin at one end. On DMCH's, it's 
the connection onto the surround of the light. The other two  (BLACK and 
WHITE/PURPLE) can go either way round depending on your preference to 
which way you want the light to face in which function.

Martin




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 05:56:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: PADMC Spring Tech Session Photos

Great candids.  Hey, the body mods on that red D were
really awesome!  Got any pics of that rebuild? ;)

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867


--- Dave Stragand <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
>  
> 
> I have posted some photos of the May 21st Tech
> Session at
> http://padmc.projectvixen.com/events/20050521   
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all who attended the event - it was truly
> our best yet!
> 
>  
> 
> -Dave
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>     dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 

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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 13:36:43 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Attachments (was 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay)

[ADMIN] Note- attachments generally get stripped by Yahoo. Please use a 
URL, or even better a short ULR from www.tinyurl.com.

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Packodenton_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Can anyone in the Waterville Ohio area check this car out for me?
> If I buy the car, I'll pay you for your time.
>  
> Sincerely,
> Mike Pack






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 14:39:19 -0000
From: "joopnoordzij" <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl>
Subject: Interior lights

Hi all,
This is my first post to this group. I've had my D for a year now, 
and been doing all kinds of small repairs. But now I've run up to a 
problem, which proves difficult to fix.
At first, my interior lights did not come up when I opened a door, 
although the door lights workes fine. I found out that the PO 
somehow switched the wires in the light assembly (both front and 
back). After that, the front light work fine when the door is 
opened, dims a tiny bit when the door closes and finally goes out 
after 10-20 seconds. But then the light is not completely out, but 
still faintly shines. When the back interior light is also switched 
to the courtesy position, both lights will not go out after 10-20 
seconds, but instead seem to cycle every 10 seconds: they go out for 
a split second, then come on again for 10 seconds, etcetera. I 
checked the front 3 diodes, which seem okay, but there must be a 
fourth according to the diagram, but where? I cannot think of 
anything else but the diodes. Now should I search for the fourth 
diode, just go ahead with replacing the three front ones anyway, or 
am I missing something?
Any help is appreciated.

Joop Noordzij, Netherlands, VIN 3085








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