From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2644
Date: Monday, May 30, 2005 9:08 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>

2. Re: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com

3. Recapturing Freon (R134a)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start
From: Dave Brennan <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Nology ignition opinions.
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Hazard lights.
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Front brakes wont release
From: "mdcdmc81" <mcho628_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Pulling an Automatic
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

11. Driver's side window trouble
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Re: JZD in Car Craft
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

14. Re: Pulling an Automatic
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Pulling an Automatic
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

16. Re: Pulling an Automatic (Dreaded Crossover Pipe)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Re: Driver's side window trouble
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>

18. RE: Front brakes wont release
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. RE: Nology ignition opinions.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

20. Re: Pulling an Automatic
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

21. Re: Pulling an Automatic
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. Re: Miss. owners (was Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Pulling an Automatic
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

24. Re: Midwest Club Tech Day (week) report
From: Wayne Wagner <aa9dy_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

25. Re: Pulling an Automatic
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 10:55:57 -0500
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay

This was also what I was thinking - ignoring the accident damage to the
exterior, the interior looks worn and the rust is downright frightening.
Plus the listing is incorrectly listed as an automatic, when it is
clearly a 5 speed.  I've sent several questions to the owner, but they
have not been answered.
I'd be very careful of this car.

KP
4547

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Thomas Mc Auley
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 6:16 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay

Do you not think the car looks a bit dodgy? The rust on the frame is
really bad for a car with 725 miles, and the interior looks like it has
seen a few thousand miles. The shift boot also looks like it has seen
more than 725 miles.
 
Thomas
Vin 4087

Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
Can anyone in the Waterville Ohio area check this car out for me?
If I buy the car, I'll pay you for your time.

Sincerely,
Mike Pack


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 13:45:41 EDT
From: lordshill_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay

 
Ditto.  The car sure looks ragged and beat.   If it is low  mileage I'd be 
careful due to a long list of troubles that may come with a low  mileage car. 
Roy #0893 
 
 
In a message dated 5/29/2005 12:57:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net writes:

This was  also what I was thinking - ignoring the accident damage to the
exterior,  the interior looks worn and the rust is downright frightening.
Plus the  listing is incorrectly listed as an automatic, when it is
clearly a 5  speed.  I've sent several questions to the owner, but they
have not  been answered.
I'd be very careful of this  car.

KP
4547






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 17:55:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Recapturing Freon (R134a)

The subject of recapturing freon has come up in this Group in the past. 

Regarding R-134a:

At a DeLo gathering this weekend, I discovered those cans of
"compressed air" used to clean computer equipment (which I don't use
BTW) themselves contain R-134a! 1,1,1,2 Tetrafluoroethane (CAS
811-97-2). There's no difference between venting R-134a while doing
your own A/C work and spraying dust off your computer!

R-12 is of course a different matter altogether.

Bill Robertson
#5939











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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 11:53:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Brennan <usndmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start

As always, thanks for all the replies and advice. After rechecking everything a few times it turns out that one of the wires had just slightly broken from the connector and after fixing that all is well. Interestingly enough, now not only can I run my a/c blower motor on speeds 3 and 4 seemingly forever without it overheating or whatever and shutting down, my quirky hard cold start is also gone. I used to have to do a full depression, hold, release trick with the gas pedal while cranking to get it to start, and it'd take 4-5 seconds, now I don't have to do that trick and it starts in 1-2 seconds. I was not aware that the fan speed circuit breaker was part of the starter circuit. Learn something new everyday. Thanks again for the help!
 
Also I just found out I'll be moving probably within a few weeks to Meridian, MS. Any active owners around there?
 
Dave
#5968

Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:
Early cars had a recall to re-wire the relay that powers the starter 
solenoid and the connection is sent to the fan speed circuit breaker. 
Later cars had this as standard. You need to check that connection - if 
you read up these instructions, you should be able to find the relay and 
trace that wire

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/starterfix.html

With this connection off, you'll get the symptoms you describe. The fuel 
pump should not switch on until the engine actually cranks.

Martin

usndmc wrote:

>Hey all,
>
>I went out and upgraded my original 25 and 35 amp blower motor and 
>cooling fan circuit breakers to the 30 and 40 amp ones that I hear are 
>recommended. I had to modify the wiring from the original male quick 
>disconnect tabs to the post connectors to work with my new ones. I 
>made sure not to mix up which wires connected to which posts, but when 
>I finished and tried to start the car nothing happened. Turn the key, 
>and the dash lights and radio and console clock all come on and I hear 
>the click from the relay compartment but after that, nothing. No 
>starter, no fuel pump. I unplugged and reconnected the RPM relay, 
>checked that all the other relays were secure in their sockets, and 
>checked all the fuses. What did I do?????
>
>Thanks for any help!
>Dave
>#5968
> 
>





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 12:01:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Nology ignition opinions.

Before you make any investment I'd suggest you read
the lengthy dissertaion on the Magnecor website.  Now,
I recognize that Magnecor is a "competitor", but
they've been running that information for years and no
lawsuits.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867


--- Adam 16683 <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hey everyone, I am looking for opinions about the
> Nology ignition 
> system (as shown on the DMCH website). Does anyone
> think that this 
> system would improve performance? is it more
> expensive than its worth?
> 
> you can respond privately if you want.
> 
> thanks!
> 
> adam
> 16683
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
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> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 15:31:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start

I was wondering what was going on there.  Thank you
for the enlightenment, Martin.  Now I know I don't
have to worry about fires ;).

--- Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:

> Enid/Jeremiah wrote:
> 
> >The reason I suggest that is when I got my new dome
> >light from DMCH, I replaced the wires EXACTLY in
> the
> >same spots - similar to what you did for your job. 
> >Turn the light one way, worked - the other way -
> >nothing.  Flipped the wires around the terminals
> >systematically and I eventually got the right
> >combination.  Not saying it was Houston's fault; it
> >just worked out that way for me.
> >  
> >
> I've seen loads of cars with this fault. It's a
> simple matter of someone 
> not knowing what they were doing previously and you
> can see why.
> 
> FOR THE RECORD
> 
> Interior lights are wired with the PURPLE wire as
> the common wire. On 
> original lights, this means the single pin at one
> end. On DMCH's, it's 
> the connection onto the surround of the light. The
> other two  (BLACK and 
> WHITE/PURPLE) can go either way round depending on
> your preference to 
> which way you want the light to face in which
> function.
> 
> Martin
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> team, please address:
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> 
> 
> 
> 



		
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 15:31:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay

A 725 mile car, stored 20 years and no amber side
marker on the driver's side?  Something stinks.

Jeremiah

--- Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> Do you not think the car looks a bit dodgy? The rust
> on the frame is really bad for a car with 725 miles,
> and the interior looks like it has seen a few
> thousand miles. The shift boot also looks like it
> has seen more than 725 miles.
>  
> Thomas
> Vin 4087
> 
> Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> Can anyone in the Waterville Ohio area check this
> car out for me?
> If I buy the car, I'll pay you for your time.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Mike Pack
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
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> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 15:33:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Hazard lights.

I just wanted to let everyone know that my turn
signal/hazard light situation seems to be fixed.  The
hazard lights work perfectly now - car without key,
with key, or driving on the road.  Thank you all for
your help and insights in regards to the previous
manner.

Jeremiah

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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 22:45:10 -0000
From: "mdcdmc81" <mcho628_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Front brakes wont release

Had a leak from my brake master cylinder. I changed the master
cylinder with a new one from DMC Houston, replaced the brake fluid
with Castrol GT-LMA, and bled all the lines in the proper order. Now
the front brakes lock up after driving a few miles. It takes about 5
minutes for them to release after pulling over. Could it be that the
new master cylinder is bad? I'm stumped.






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 23:36:49 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Pulling an Automatic

Anyone have any experience they care to share pulling an automatic 
trans and leaving the engine in the car? I've had it out of the car but 
at the time the engine came with it. 

Following the manual it appears pretty straighforward albeit a bit 
messy. Can the dreaded (Hi Bill) crossover stay in place? I have a lift 
and a trans jack. 

Muffler is off. 

Dave






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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 00:29:51 -0000
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Driver's side window trouble

When I put my driver's side window down, it does not come back up.  Then 
later on, sometimes weeks later, I will push the switch randomly and it will go 
up.  What causes this?  It goes down every time.  but it only seems to come up 
when it wants to. 






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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 00:47:26 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay

Maybe it is such a low mileage car because the angle drive broke at
mile 725 and was never fixed! In any case I hope you go by more than
just the mileage. At this point mileage just isn't that important,
overall condition is everything. Mileage is just one of the many
things that you should be looking at. It is so easy to play games with
the odometer that you just can't take it so seriously. For instance if
the car truly had 725 miles on it the tread should be almost unworn.
Easy to check with a tread depth gauge but just by looking at the tire
up close you will probably see more than 725 miles on them. Besides,
what good is a low mileage car with a rotten frame?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> A 725 mile car, stored 20 years and no amber side
> m






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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 20:49:04 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: JZD in Car Craft

This months Issue of Car Craft has an article about JZD.  It list the 
10 best things he did. 





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 00:55:51 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Pulling an Automatic

You do not have to touch the exhaust system. You WILL have to pull the
starter and lift the engine to get to the cover on the bottom. Drain
as much fluid out of the pan and the cooler as you can to try to keep
the mess to a minimum. Follow the Workshop Manual, it is pretty good.
Take the plug off the firewall and cut all the strap ties. You can
leave the shift computer and the switches and harness on and take it
all out together. Be careful that the torque converter doesn't get
away from you. If it slips out of the bell housing as you take the
trans off it will unbalance and the trans could fall off the jack. Bad
enough if the car is jacked up but working under a lift things can
fall further. Don't forget the dipstick tube and the vacuum line. You
should support the engine separately from below as you remove the
trans. It helps to let it pitch down in the front but you don't want
it to go too far.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Anyone have any experience they care to share pulling an automatic 
> trans and leaving the engine in the car? I've had it out of the car but 
> at the time the engine came with it. 
> 
> Following the manual it appears pretty straighforward albeit a bit 
> messy. Can the dreaded (Hi Bill) crossover stay in place? I have a lift 
> and a trans jack. 
> 
> Muffler is off. 
> 
> Dave







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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 21:42:01 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Pulling an Automatic

If you remember I did that with the first raffle car 
what do you want to know


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 02:05:46 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Pulling an Automatic (Dreaded Crossover Pipe)

Reply doesn't help your problem, but y'know what my biggest complaint
about the stock exhaust setup is? Everything is tucked up tight
against the engine, meanwhile there's beaucoups of unused space
outside the engine cradle. I know this yields efficient assembly line
manufacturing, but as you're discovering it's a pain to work around
thereafter. I removed my crossover pipe for the same reason -- to aid
transmission removal. Decided not to put it back, but rather engineer
an alternative that takes advantage of unused space. Yields other
benefits as well:
- Less heat against the engine, especially across the front
- No heat against the rear fascia
- Ability to rotate the engine with a socket wrench
- Access to the Valley of Death from under the car
- Room for an eventual power steering pump

BTW: Exactly why are you leaving the crossover pipe in place?

Proper transmission jack is worth its weight in gold.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Anyone have any experience they care to share pulling an automatic 
> trans and leaving the engine in the car? I've had it out of the car but 
> at the time the engine came with it. 
> 
> Following the manual it appears pretty straighforward albeit a bit 
> messy. Can the dreaded (Hi Bill) crossover stay in place? I have a lift 
> and a trans jack. 
> 
> Muffler is off. 
> 
> Dave







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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 20:15:18 -0700
From: "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: Re: Driver's side window trouble

Most of the time it's dirty contacts in the switch, try changing the switch 
from the other window, if this cures the problem get a new switch or have it 
cleaned.
Lloyd--#3502

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 5:29 PM
Subject: [DML] Driver's side window trouble


> When I put my driver's side window down, it does not come back up.  Then
> later on, sometimes weeks later, I will push the switch randomly and it 
> will go
> up.  What causes this?  It goes down every time.  but it only seems to 
> come up
> when it wants to.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> 





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 22:15:31 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Front brakes wont release

Brake master cylinders that are 25 years old do weird things. The seals are
hard and the spring may be sprung. That's why I tell everyone about being
careful about the NOS stock.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of mdcdmc81
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 4:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Front brakes wont release


Had a leak from my brake master cylinder. I changed the master
cylinder with a new one from DMC Houston, replaced the brake fluid
with Castrol GT-LMA, and bled all the lines in the proper order. Now
the front brakes lock up after driving a few miles. It takes about 5
minutes for them to release after pulling over. Could it be that the
new master cylinder is bad? I'm stumped.






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 22:30:03 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Nology ignition opinions.

Dick, I sounds like they are talking about my 8mm Sprial Pro and 8.5mm MSD
type wires that are made for the all out performance. The only problem is
they most likely won't have the boots or have you called them. The Nology
wires look good, but what are they going to add for the money and
performance. Putting ground wire over the out jacket does nothing for
performance.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/engine-tuneup.html




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Dick Ryan
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 1:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Nology ignition opinions.


Before you make any investment I'd suggest you read
the lengthy dissertaion on the Magnecor website.  Now,
I recognize that Magnecor is a "competitor", but
they've been running that information for years and no
lawsuits.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867


--- Adam 16683 <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hey everyone, I am looking for opinions about the
> Nology ignition
> system (as shown on the DMCH website). Does anyone
> think that this
> system would improve performance? is it more
> expensive than its worth?
>
> you can respond privately if you want.
>
> thanks!
>
> adam
> 16683
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 04:20:26 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling an Automatic

This is an acedemic question at this point, but how do you turn the 
engine over to get to the converter bolts without removing the 
muffler (I have the muffler off so I could turn the engine over more
 quickly in quest of the mysterious noise). 

It also seems to me that it's prudent to get those two cooling lines 
out of the way so the rear of the trans can drop.

I generally chain the trans to the jack so it shouldn't fall, but 
your right, dropping the converter would sure ruin your day. I have 
the OEM converter clamp to install on it as soon as it's separated. 

Dave

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> You do not have to touch the exhaust system. You WILL have to pull 
the
> starter and lift the engine to get to the cover on the bottom. Drain
> as much fluid out of the pan and the cooler as you can to try to 
keep
> the mess to a minimum. Follow the Workshop Manual, it is pretty 
good.
> Take the plug off the firewall and cut all the strap ties. You can
> leave the shift computer and the switches and harness on and take it
> all out together. Be careful that the torque converter doesn't get
> away from you. If it slips out of the bell housing as you take the
> trans off it will unbalance and the trans could fall off the jack. 
Bad
> enough if the car is jacked up but working under a lift things can
> fall further. Don't forget the dipstick tube and the vacuum line. 
You
> should support the engine separately from below as you remove the
> trans. It helps to let it pitch down in the front but you don't want
> it to go too far.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Anyone have any experience they care to share pulling an 
automatic 
> > trans and leaving the engine in the car? I've had it out of the 
car but 
> > at the time the engine came with it. 
> > 






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 06:05:10 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling an Automatic

Adding to my own thread - the trans is out (with no assistance other 
than the jack). I did have to loosen the crossover bolts to let it to 
move up about 1/4" but otherwise it was pretty straightforward. 

Now for the fun part - I can't see any evidence of anything wrong. So 
it looks like I'll swap in another converter and see if that fixes it 
(original problem was a disturbing noise). If nothing else I'll get 
pretty good at R&Ring these things. 

The only thing I noticed was that when I pulled the converter out, 
the pump shaft stuck to it. On the "donor" transmission (thanks Marty 
L!) it came apart like I would expect it to. 

The oil that ran out of the "donor" looks perfectly clear, so I'm 
going to use it as the replacement. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> This is an acedemic question at this point, but how do you turn the 
> engine over to get to the converter bolts without removing the 
> muffler (I have the muffler off so I could turn the engine over more
>  quickly in quest of the mysterious noise). 
> 
> It also seems to me that it's prudent to get those two cooling 
lines 
> out of the way so the rear of the trans can drop.
> 
> I generally chain the trans to the jack so it shouldn't fall, but 
> your right, dropping the converter would sure ruin your day. I have 
> the OEM converter clamp to install on it as soon as it's separated. 
> 
> Dave
> 
> -- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> wrote:
> > You do not have to touch the exhaust system. You WILL have to 
pull 
> the
> > starter and lift the engine to get to the cover on the bottom. 
Drain
> > as much fluid out of the pan and the cooler as you can to try to 
> keep
> > the mess to a minimum. Follow the Workshop Manual, it is pretty 
> good.
> > Take the plug off the firewall and cut all the strap ties. You can
> > leave the shift computer and the switches and harness on and take 
it
> > all out together. Be careful that the torque converter doesn't get
> > away from you. If it slips out of the bell housing as you take the
> > trans off it will unbalance and the trans could fall off the 
jack. 
> Bad
> > enough if the car is jacked up but working under a lift things can
> > fall further. Don't forget the dipstick tube and the vacuum line. 
> You
> > should support the engine separately from below as you remove the
> > trans. It helps to let it pitch down in the front but you don't 
want
> > it to go too far.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> > > Anyone have any experience they care to share pulling an 
> automatic 
> > > trans and leaving the engine in the car? I've had it out of the 
> car but 
> > > at the time the engine came with it. 
> > >






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 21:26:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Miss. owners (was Circuit Breaker Upgrades -- Now no-start

> Also I just found out I'll be moving probably within
> a few weeks to Meridian, MS. Any active owners
> around there?


I'm in Pensacola, Fl - 4 hours form you.  Not that
it's right next door, but not that far either!  Casey
is 1 hour from me so you have 2 of us in the Gulf
Coast at most 4 hours away!

Jeremiah


		
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 06:18:23 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling an Automatic

And now for another oddball question - any reason NOT to bolt up a 
MANUAL flywheel and clutch assmbly and bellhousing, and start and run 
the engine without a transmission in place? (Other than another 
couple of hours of work!) This would seem to be a good way to make 
sure that the noise is NOT in the engine itself....

Dave S 

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Adding to my own thread - the trans is out (with no assistance 
other 
> than the jack). I did have to loosen the crossover bolts to let it 
to 
> move up about 1/4" but otherwise it was pretty straightforward. 
> 
> Now for the fun part - I can't see any evidence of anything wrong. 
So 
> it looks like I'll swap in another converter and see if that fixes 
it 
> (original problem was a disturbing noise). If nothing else I'll get 
> pretty good at R&Ring these things. 
> 
> The only thing I noticed was that when I pulled the converter out, 
> the pump shaft stuck to it. On the "donor" transmission (thanks 
Marty 
> L!) it came apart like I would expect it to. 
> 
> The oil that ran out of the "donor" looks perfectly clear, so I'm 
> going to use it as the replacement. 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > This is an acedemic question at this point, but how do you turn 
the 
> > engine over to get to the converter bolts without removing the 
> > muffler (I have the muffler off so I could turn the engine over 
more
> >  quickly in quest of the mysterious noise). 
> > 
> > It also seems to me that it's prudent to get those two cooling 
> lines 
> > out of the way so the rear of the trans can drop.
> > 
> > I generally chain the trans to the jack so it shouldn't fall, but 
> > your right, dropping the converter would sure ruin your day. I 
have 
> > the OEM converter clamp to install on it as soon as it's 
separated. 
> > 
> > Dave
> > 
> > -- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> > wrote:
> > > You do not have to touch the exhaust system. You WILL have to 
> pull 
> > the
> > > starter and lift the engine to get to the cover on the bottom. 
> Drain
> > > as much fluid out of the pan and the cooler as you can to try 
to 
> > keep
> > > the mess to a minimum. Follow the Workshop Manual, it is pretty 
> > good.
> > > Take the plug off the firewall and cut all the strap ties. You 
can
> > > leave the shift computer and the switches and harness on and 
take 
> it
> > > all out together. Be careful that the torque converter doesn't 
get
> > > away from you. If it slips out of the bell housing as you take 
the
> > > trans off it will unbalance and the trans could fall off the 
> jack. 
> > Bad
> > > enough if the car is jacked up but working under a lift things 
can
> > > fall further. Don't forget the dipstick tube and the vacuum 
line. 
> > You
> > > should support the engine separately from below as you remove 
the
> > > trans. It helps to let it pitch down in the front but you don't 
> want
> > > it to go too far.
> > > David Teitelbaum
> > > vin 10757
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> 
> wrote:
> > > > Anyone have any experience they care to share pulling an 
> > automatic 
> > > > trans and leaving the engine in the car? I've had it out of 
the 
> > car but 
> > > > at the time the engine came with it. 
> > > >






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 02:32:51 -0500
From: Wayne Wagner <aa9dy_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Midwest Club Tech Day (week) report

Well, this future owner is now a current owner...

VIN#02447 (http://www.AA9DY.com/DMC.htm) --> 1981, Automatic, Black 
Interior, ~36,000 miles on it now after flying down to Atlanta this past 
Friday and driving it back to the Chicagoland area.  No real issues for 
the drive back other than A/C not running right (seems like low 
charge)... so it felt like a sweatbox while sitting in the Atlanta 
stop-n-go interstate traffic on this Memorial Day weekend (what was I 
thinking?!?).  I'm glad for the cooler weather we have been having up 
here in northeastern Illinois.   Gonna put the A/C on my hot-list of 
to-do items before we start getting the warmer weather.

Regards,
Wayne / VIN#02447
www.AA9DY.com

Dave Swingle wrote:

>Ken Koncelic showed up Saturday with the Pheasant Run raffle car, 
>and "trained" several members (and a future owner or two) in some of 
>the arts of DeLorean maintenance. The car is now on it's way back to 
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 12:42:04 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling an Automatic

I removed the crossover and built a support to keep the engine from 
falling down toward the rear of the car. The support, made out of 
wood, was also was used to give the engine a "tilt" toward the front 
to ease in replacing the trans. I thought the removal/replacement was 
as straight-forward as any. I had the most trouble with the shift 
cable. It was just in the way. Also, it was not a one-man job. It took 
two to align and replace the trans - otherwise, I would be afraid of 
damage to the torque converter seal because the torque converter will 
fall away from the trans if not held in place.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Anyone have any experience they care to share pulling an automatic 
> trans and leaving the engine in the car? I've had it out of the car 
but 
> at the time the engine came with it. 
> 
> Following the manual it appears pretty straighforward albeit a bit 
> messy. Can the dreaded (Hi Bill) crossover stay in place? I have a 
lift 
> and a trans jack. 
> 
> Muffler is off. 
> 
> Dave






________________________________________________________________________
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