From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2646
Date: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 3:13 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Nology ignition opinions.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Bosch CIS Pressure tester
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Pulling an Automatic (Test Running The Engine)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: Re: Pulling an Automatic
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. Re: Pulling an Automatic (Rotating The Engine)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: Front brakes wont release
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

7. Re: Front brakes wont release
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Front brakes wont release
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. 1 week after Houston
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

10. Re: Bosch CIS Pressure tester
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Driver's side window trouble
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>

12. Re:More mystery... Pulling an Automatic
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. Re: Nology ignition opinions.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Evaporator Core fused to Accumulator... ways out?
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

15. Re: Interior lights
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

16. Re: Re: Headliner work - opportunities while there?
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

17. Broken Head Bolt advice
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. Re: Evaporator Core fused to Accumulator... ways out?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

19. .....Refilling the final drive separately on an automatic
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>

20. Air Conditioner Cycles
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

21. Re: Re: Evaporator Core fused to Accumulator... ways out?
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>

22. RE: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: 1 week after Houston
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

24. Re: Bosch CIS Pressure tester
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>

25. BAE Turbo Availability
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 08:26:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Nology ignition opinions.

I did not read any of the links on this thread, but
did see and speak to a Nology guy at the SEMA show in
Atlantic City.

The ground wire is because the wires themselves are
supposed to be capacitive, and the intended result is
a more powerful spark when the capacitor discharges.. 
However, A capacitor also needs time to charge!  When
you have a pulse that is a sharp spike, he capacitor
will tend to smooth out the spike, and reduce the
amplitude of it.

IMHO, the concept does not work.  However, I realize
there are many people out there who know a lot more
than I do.  The little demonstration they had set up
looked impressive, where the spark from the Nology
wire looked brighter than the "standard" wire.  But,
who know was monkey business they did for that
comparison.  Not like they would let me go to the auto
part store and put my own brand new ignition wire on
their setup!

Maybe next time someone has Dyno time, they can run a
test.

--- John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
> Dick, I sounds like they are talking about my 8mm
> Sprial Pro and 8.5mm MSD
> type wires that are made for the all out
> performance. The only problem is
> they most likely won't have the boots or have you
> called them. The Nology
> wires look good, but what are they going to add for
> the money and
> performance. Putting ground wire over the out jacket
> does nothing for
> performance.
> John Hervey
>


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 13:41:59 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Bosch CIS Pressure tester

I was thinking of purchasing a Bosch CIS Fuel Injection system pressure  
tester and all the ones I see show a picture of a gauge connected to a some  hoses 
with female threaded connectors.
 
Am I missing some important concept here?  I figured the hoses would  have to 
have banjo fittings.
 
Thanks,
 
Dē & 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 18:02:32 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Pulling an Automatic (Test Running The Engine)

Just make sure the front of your engine is well supported. DeLo lower
engine castings are horrifically off balance. The whole reason my
motor mount bosses are in the middle of the lower engine casting is so
the engine will balance itself without a transmission attached.

With no transmission there's no need for a clutch assembly. Flywheel
and something to hold the starter motor are enough.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> And now for another oddball question - any reason NOT to bolt up a 
> MANUAL flywheel and clutch assmbly and bellhousing, and start and run 
> the engine without a transmission in place? (Other than another 
> couple of hours of work!) This would seem to be a good way to make 
> sure that the noise is NOT in the engine itself....
> 
> Dave S 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Adding to my own thread - the trans is out (with no assistance 
> other 
> > than the jack). I did have to loosen the crossover bolts to let it 
> to 
> > move up about 1/4" but otherwise it was pretty straightforward. 
> > 
> > Now for the fun part - I can't see any evidence of anything wrong. 
> So 
> > it looks like I'll swap in another converter and see if that fixes 




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 19:04:36 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Pulling an Automatic

Of course taking the spark plugs out makes all methods much easier

Martin

>Dave Swingle wrote:
>
>  
>
>>This is an acedemic question at this point, but how do you turn the 
>>engine over to get to the converter bolts without removing the 
>>muffler 
>>
>>    
>>
>Personally I have an excellent special tool called a super wrench - it's 
>the one in the middle of this pic
>
>http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/images/exhaust/2toolsdetail.jpg
>
>That's my smallest one.The biggest one grabs onto the end of the water 
>pump pulley beautifully and as long as the alternator belt is on tight 
>enough, this will rotate the engine
>
>Martin
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 18:07:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Pulling an Automatic (Rotating The Engine)

Now you know a major reason I converted to dual exhaust...

DeLo exhaust system was designed for ease of assembly line
manufacture, and nothing else.

Since you at least have the crossover pipe loose, you ARE going to
replace the carbon nuts with stainless, yes? 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> This is an acedemic question at this point, but how do you turn the 
> engine over to get to the converter bolts without removing the 
> muffler (I have the muffler off so I could turn the engine over more
>  quickly in quest of the mysterious noise). 
> 
> It also seems to me that it's prudent to get those two cooling lines 
> out of the way so the rear of the trans can drop.
> 
> I generally chain the trans to the jack so it shouldn't fall, but 
> your right, dropping the converter would sure ruin your day. I have 
> the OEM converter clamp to install on it as soon as it's separated. 
> 
> Dave
> 







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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 16:45:56 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Front brakes wont release

Ugh. Sometimes shit happens. It sounds like dirt or debris got into the
front brake line. I've also had this happen when the old rubber brake hoses
by the wheels degrade and the inside rubber plugs the hose up.

As is my old adage, always contact the vendor FIRST before posting on the
DML.

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "mdcdmc81" <mcho628_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 6:45 PM
Subject: [DML] Front brakes wont release


> Had a leak from my brake master cylinder. I changed the master
> cylinder with a new one from DMC Houston, replaced the brake fluid
> with Castrol GT-LMA, and bled all the lines in the proper order. Now
> the front brakes lock up after driving a few miles. It takes about 5
> minutes for them to release after pulling over. Could it be that the
> new master cylinder is bad? I'm stumped.
>
>






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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 22:30:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Front brakes wont release

The most likely causes are that your front calipers need to rebuilt
and it is also possible that you need new brake hoses. You should
consider rebuilding the whole system at one time. Generally if one
part fails it is because the fluid went bad and the whole system is
contaminated and will fail soon. Do the clutch too and change the
brake fluid in both systems every 2 years with Castrol GTLMA DOT 4.
David Teitelbaum 
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Brake master cylinders that are 25 years old do weird things. The
seals are
> hard and the spring may be sprung. That's why I tell everyone about
being
> careful about the NOS stock.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
> Of mdcdmc81
> Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 4:45 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Front brakes wont release
> 
> 
> Had a leak from my brake master cylinder. I changed the master
> cylinder with a new one from DMC Houston, replaced the brake fluid
> with Castrol GT-LMA, and bled all the lines in the proper order. Now
> the front brakes lock up after driving a few miles. It takes about 5
> minutes for them to release after pulling over. Could it be that the
> new master cylinder is bad? I'm stumped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links






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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 22:38:52 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Front brakes wont release

I forgot to add that water in the brake fluid will also cause this. It
truns to steam and builds pressure holding the brakes on and locked up
till it cools. In any case you should rebuild the whole system and
flush all the old stuff out and use new fluid.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Brake master cylinders that are 25 years old do weird things. The
seals are
> hard and the spring may be sprung. That's why I tell everyone about
being
> careful about the NOS stock.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
> Of mdcdmc81
> Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 4:45 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Front brakes wont release
> 
> 
> Had a leak from my brake master cylinder. I changed the master
> cylinder with a new one from DMC Houston, replaced the brake fluid
> with Castrol GT-LMA, and bled all the lines in the proper order. Now
> the front brakes lock up after driving a few miles. It takes about 5
> minutes for them to release after pulling over. Could it be that the
> new master cylinder is bad? I'm stumped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links







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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 17:01:52 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: 1 week after Houston

1 week after Houston, there's a DeLorean meet on a sandy beach, in the sun, with cold beer, and bikinis, on the shoreline of Lake Huron near Michigan _at_dml_
Grand Bend, Ontario. Where is that, you ask? Next door, in Canada, 1 hour from Detroit.

No registration cost. Freebies for each DeLorean associated person coming, including a collector's, custom printed, DeLorean cup, made for this occasion, only!

 I'm told the weather will be sunny and warm. I have connections.

If you are coming, and have not yet contacted me, please do so now, so I have a rough attendance count. We have room for 67 cars. ( optimist for sure ) 

www.grandbend.ca
www.oakwoodinnresort.com 


Marv.
#17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 
  ----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 267.3.0 - Release Date: 5/30/2005


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 19:34:26 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Bosch CIS Pressure tester

 
In a message dated 5/30/2005 6:21:01 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com writes:

I was  thinking of purchasing a Bosch CIS Fuel Injection system pressure   
tester and all the ones I see show a picture of a gauge connected to a  some  
hoses 
with female threaded connectors.

Am I missing some  important concept here?  I figured the hoses would  have 
to 
have  banjo fittings.

Thanks,

Dē &  6530



Don't worry, the CIS pressure tester comes with a bag full of adaptors to  
connect to various parts of the fuel injection system.  I have a gauge set  from 
Tool-Aid by B&G tools (about $80) which came with every adaptor part I  have 
ever needed.  Buying one of these is a wise investment.  It can  make many 
unknowns in your fuel system go away.  Now you will be able to  visually verify a 
bad accumulator, warm up regulator, or pressure regulator  among many other 
important things.  Even if you only use it once, it's  worth the money compared 
to bringing the car to shop that actually has one and  asking them to check 
on a few things for you with it.
 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 23:50:44 -0000
From: "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Driver's side window trouble

My guess is that the window motor is bad. I read a post earlier that 
mentioned a way to wake your motor up without removing the door panel. 
Carefully remove the door light closest to the front of the door 
without actually unplugging it. Get a flashlight and locate the motor. 
Get a punch and hammer and give the motor a tap. Maybe have someone 
hold the button in the up position as you tap the motor. It should not 
take more than a few taps, so don't over do it. You will now it's a 
motor issue if anything different happens in the window operation.

Read more replies before attempting this. You will know this is good 
advice if someone else can back me up.
I just replaced my passenger door window motor and regulator assembly. 
It was a piece of cake. Door panels are good quality and come off 
relatively easy. My regulator tape seized, I bought a NOS set up. 
Works beautiful. Have whomever you buy the motor from, send you the 
instructions. 

BC


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> When I put my driver's side window down, it does not come back up.  
Then 
> later on, sometimes weeks later, I will push the switch randomly and 
it will go 
> up.  What causes this?  It goes down every time.  but it only seems 
to come up 
> when it wants to.






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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 01:07:16 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re:More mystery... Pulling an Automatic

I decided not try running the engine without a trans in the car. Too 
much extra work. 

If you've been following along - I put the automatic back in the car 
this morning (I'm getting good at this - 3 hours out, 2 hours in).
 Knowing what I know now, I'd rather R&R an automatic than a manual  
- once you know the tricks it comes out faster. 

I started it back up and the noise was still there. With futher 
careful listening (and some choice words), we decided that it sounded 
like hydraulics noises in the converter and decided to let it run a 
while. I finished filling the trans fluid as it warmed up, and all-
of=-a-sudden it quieted down and sounds perfect. Go figure. 

At any rate, my current theory is that whatever piece of crud was 
stuck got unstuck and everything is back to normal. This is a car 
that had been stored for the past 15 years or so, and there are still 
some parts that are apparently waking up.

Yes Bill - this is the car I bought last year in SC and am doing a 
relatively complete restoration to re-sell. I had the engine out of 
the car and replaced every last seal and gasket, short of removing 
the heads. I also replaced all the exhaust hardware and refinished 
the manifolds. 

When its done this will be a very nicely prepped near-show-quality 
driver car. 81 Black Gas Flap Automatic. Emissions legal in all 50 
states. More info to come as I finish it up. 

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
>> 
> Since you at least have the crossover pipe loose, you ARE going to
> replace the carbon nuts with stainless, yes? 
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939







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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 02:15:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Nology ignition opinions.

There is a lot of theory underlying this subject. The real short
answer is that the ignition system is just there to supply energy
(electrical discharge aka spark) to start the combustion process. Not
enough energy and no combustion, too much and still combustion. More
than what is necessary does not do anything once the combustion
process is started. Timing does enter into this and the faster the
motor is running the more important the duration and amplitude. Higher
combustion pressures require a higher input of energy to start the
combustion. Think of a match in a wind tunnel. The higher the wind the
bigger the flame so it won't blow out. Most stock solid state ignition
systems are completly adequate for normal (stock) use. When they age
and cannot meet the requirements of the stock motor they just have to
be replaced, not upgraded. If you increase combustion pressures or run
above stock RPM"s the stock ignition system will be inadequate. In
many instances people upgrade the ignition coil and all of a sudden
the car runs better. Not because the coil is so much better than a
stock coil, it is better because it is not 20 years old and having a
hard time getting enough spark out, especially at higher loads. There
is no "Magic Bullet" that can all of a sudden give you a lot of
improvement. There ARE a lot of little things that all taken together
will give some improvement but you will spend a lot of $$ for what
will be small gains. Such is the case of "Diminishing Returns". The
factory did as much as they could within the rules of economics. Speed
costs money, how fast do you want to go? For many a good and thourgh
tune-up will get you the most "Bang for the Buck".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I did not read any of the links on this thread, but
> did see and speak to a Nology guy at the SEMA show in
> Atlantic City.
> 
> The ground wire is because the wires themselves are
> supposed to be capacitive, and the intended result is
> a more powerful spark when the capacitor discharges.. 
> However, A capacitor also needs time to charge!  When
> ces/







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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 21:51:42 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Evaporator Core fused to Accumulator... ways out?

I'm having my AC system serviced, and it's becoming the traditional
nightmare.  The evaporator core is solidly stuck to the old
accumulator.  Does anyone have a method to remove the accumulator
without damaging the evaporator core?  The person working on it
stopped trying to saw through the accumulator when he noticed the
evaporator goes inside of it at the area he was going to saw through. 
He was reluctant to heat the fittings, as he was concerned the heat
would get drawn straight into the evaporator and possibly melt the
housing.

If nothing else, does anyone have a short-cut method of getting the
evaporator core replaced...  I've heard terrible things about the time
involved, but I remember seeing someone say they had a method to
remove it in an hour or so once.

Thanks,
--Greg
#2894




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 23:04:18 -0500
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Interior lights

This sounds like a problem with your dimmer/delay relay.  They are
notoriously bad.  Many will suggest you simply unplug the relay (larg
white relay) and go with out.  The lights will light when the door is
open and turn off immediately when the doors close.  Otherwise let us
kow if you find a valid replacement relay.

Jeff 
#10544

On 5/29/05, joopnoordzij <noordzy_at_dml_xs4all.nl> wrote:
> Hi all,
> This is my first post to this group. I've had my D for a year now,
> and been doing all kinds of small repairs. But now I've run up to a
> problem, which proves difficult to fix.
> At first, my interior lights did not come up when I opened a door,
> although the door lights workes fine. I found out that the PO
> somehow switched the wires in the light assembly (both front and
> back). After that, the front light work fine when the door is
> opened, dims a tiny bit when the door closes and finally goes out
> after 10-20 seconds. 




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 00:10:26 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Headliner work - opportunities while there?

D'oh... my memory served me not so well.  I re-read the instructions
and noticed I'd only have to mess around above the headliner if I
chose the most difficult wiring method of the 3 provided in your
instructions.  Why that stuck out in my head as necessary, I don't
know.  Thanks.  :-)

--Greg
#2894

On 5/26/05, Toby Peterson <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com> wrote:
> Greg - Just curious here ... why do you need to have the headliners out
> for "door launcher" wiring?




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 23:31:07 -0500
From: Jeff Phillips <rvparty_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Broken Head Bolt advice

A involved job of replacing a worn cam has gotten more involved now
that a hea bolt has snapped.  Luckily it broke just below the bolt's
head so there is about 6 inches of bolt to work with when I remove it.
 I'm looking for suggestions on or offline on how to remove this.  Its
one of the end bolts farthest towards the rear of the car.

What I also don't understand is why this bolt broke rather than come
out.  Its a new bolt from the last time I had the head off.  Hadnt
driven the car enough at that point to be aware of the cam wear.  When
I install the new head bolts what can I do to ensure they come out
properly for the next guy?

Jeff Phillips
#10544




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 14:29:29 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Evaporator Core fused to Accumulator... ways out?

He is on the right track, but it's quite common to twist the end off 
the evap core. Replacing the evaporator is probably my least favorite 
project on the car, as usual, it seems that the entire interior of the 
car is build around the evaporator. There is no other trick to getting 
the bottle off the tube. I've tried heat without success.

The manual's description is pretty accurate, i.e. remove the console, 
pull the radio panel out a bit, remove the kneepads, glove box and then 
the recirc duct and then snap off a few of the retaining studs (just 
above the blower) that you access via that duct. Then find a bunch of 
other hidden screws and pull the whole mess down and out from the dash 
panel.

The "short cut" is, I belive, a Ken Koncelik-developed procedure that 
involves removing the screws that hold the left and right case halves 
together. so that the heater core (left) part stays in the car. This is 
very difficult if you've never seen the entire HVAC unit out of the car 
because the screws are impossible to see, i.e. you have to know where 
they are and work by feel from the driver side footwell. Ken swears he 
can do this, I'm not actually convinced its possible by normal humans 
and even less convinced that it's possible to put it back together with 
all the factory-supplied screws in place!

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_g...> wrote:
---> 
> If nothing else, does anyone have a short-cut method of getting the
> evaporator core replaced...  I've heard terrible things about the time
> involved, but I remember seeing someone say they had a method to
> remove it in an hour or so once.
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894






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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 14:39:37 -0000
From: "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: .....Refilling the final drive separately on an automatic

Hi All 

Can anyone please tell me what this entails ?... all i can see for the 
procedure on refilling the fluid is filling up the transmission through 
the dip tube opening. How is this best done and checked for levels?

Many Thanks 

Mike
#2001







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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 16:29:44 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Air Conditioner Cycles

I remember reading a post a while back in regards to the air 
conditioner cycling on and off every two-three seconds. For the life
of me, I can never find these posts no matter what keywords I use.
Was this a relax fixable issue? Also, does upgrading the alternator 
eliminate or soften the hard up and down idle/dimming when the 
compressor kicks-in? Thanks.

John
#7009







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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 09:36:48 -0700
From: Johnny Sawyer <johnny.sawyer_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Evaporator Core fused to Accumulator... ways out?

Dave, you are so right as I just performed this task with another
member of our club here in AZ.  Next to cleaning a fuel tank, it's one
of the worst jobs to do.  We had to remove most everything from the
driver's right-side knee pad over to the passenger side.  We tried not
to remove the heater core and ended up breaking the lower case for the
evap because of the said screws that can't be seen.

This was a first-time for myself and if I had to do it again (no
thanks) I would have removed the heater core.  Not fun!

Johnny
5518

On 5/31/05, Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote:
> He is on the right track, but it's quite common to twist the end off
> the evap core. Replacing the evaporator is probably my least favorite
> project on the car, as usual, it seems that the entire interior of the
> car is build around the evaporator. There is no other trick to getting
> the bottle off the tube. I've tried heat without success.
> 
> The manual's description is pretty accurate, i.e. remove the console,
> pull the radio panel out a bit, remove the kneepads, glove box and then
> the recirc duct and then snap off a few of the retaining studs (just
> above the blower) that you access via that duct. Then find a bunch of
> other hidden screws and pull the whole mess down and out from the dash
> panel.




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 10:36:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay

KP & any others interested in this car,

If you want me to take a look for you & get specific photos I'd be willing. 
I plan on checking it out just for the sake of looking & the hunt for "local"
DeLoreans.

If the car is indeed in Waterville the seller is in Toledo.
In the photo there is a Speedway in the background. There is no Speedway in
Waterville. The phone number in the sellers ID (parker4196543323) is a local
Toledo OH number for both Carbays.Com "Toledo's Wholesale Auto Auction"
(www.carbays.com) and Central Auto Finance. Both have the same address of: 5947 W
Central Ave Toledo, OH 43615. Carbays was founded by Parker Hanson.

Speedway Store #3615 ... 5904 West Central Toledo, OH 43615-1802 is the one in
the background. You can see the same Speedway in the background in a few shots on
www.carbays.com  when you click on "consigners" then on "view all cars".

Shannon Y
16506

------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 10:55:57 -0500
   From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Re: 725 mile Ohio DeLorean on Ebay

This was also what I was thinking - ignoring the accident damage to the
exterior, the interior looks worn and the rust is downright frightening.
Plus the listing is incorrectly listed as an automatic, when it is
clearly a 5 speed.  I've sent several questions to the owner, but they
have not been answered.
I'd be very careful of this car.

KP
4547

__________________________________________________
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 17:07:05 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: 1 week after Houston

Just to let everyone know, It DOESN'T snow up here in Canada all year.
So don't show up with skis strapped to the roof of your DeLorean!  ;-)

Seriously though, the weather in Southern Ontario during the summer
can  be similar to the southern States so make sure your A/C is up to
the task.  Just in case Marv didn't pay off the weather gods enough,
I'm bringing a few extra beers...

Richard Rowe
Vin 5853






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 1 week after Houston, there's a DeLorean meet on a sandy beach, in
the sun, with cold beer, and bikinis, on the shoreline of Lake Huron
near Michigan _at_dml_
> Grand Bend, Ontario. Where is that, you ask? Next door, in Canada, 1
hour from Detroit.
> 
> No registration cost. Freebies for each DeLorean associated person
coming, including a collector's, custom printed, DeLorean cup, made
for this occasion, only!
> 
>  I'm told the weather will be sunny and warm. I have connections.
> 
> If you are coming, and have not yet contacted me, please do so now,
so I have a rough attendance count. We have room for 67 cars. (
optimist for sure ) 
> 
> www.grandbend.ca
> www.oakwoodinnresort.com 
> 
> 
> Marv.
> #17077
> marv_at_dml_p... 
>   ----------
> 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 267.3.0 - Release Date: 5/30/2005
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 11:21:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Woody <BePositive2000_at_dml_Yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bosch CIS Pressure tester

The pressure tester I purchased from J.C. Whitney is specifically for
CIS systems.  It is designed for the higher pressures than other
injection systems and has all of the necessary fittings including the
valve that lets you isolate the CPR (plug & play).  In addition, the
unit came with instruction that were very helpful.

Woody


		
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Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Mail - Find what you need with new enhanced search. 
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 18:50:56 -0000
From: "Steve" <p2freak_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: BAE Turbo Availability

Gang.

In the Delorean parts manual, the BAE turbo is advertised as a bolt on 
turbo.  Is it still available?  If not, what other economical turbo 
options do I have.

Bolt on superchargers will work also.  5-10 psi increase is sufficient.


Thanks.

Steve
VIN#04421






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