From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2660
Date: Monday, June 06, 2005 12:57 PM

There are 21 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: undercoating
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

2. Re: undercoating
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Soon to be a Delorean owner
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. DMC HOUSTON
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

5. Fuses and Headlights
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: New Front Fascia - (Joe OBrien)
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Old Shocks was Free Delorean Parts!
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

8. Brake calipers
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Water Pump
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Re: Air Conditioner Cycles
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: Cruise Control
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Re: Water Pump
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Water Pump
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Re: Fuses and Headlights
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Fuses and Headlights
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Re: Water Pump
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

17. Re: Cruise Control
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

18. A/C High Pressure Hose
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

19. Re: Re: Fuses and Headlights
From: Japheth Deaux <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. RE: Re: Painted Red
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>

21. RE: Water Pump
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 10:59:45 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: undercoating

Ken,

I still have never understood why anyone competing would not just remove it. I KNOW you have put more work in making the undercoating look good rather than just removing it. Eastwood and several other companies sell products to specifically remove it but you can also just use most any solvent such as brake cleaner to just melt it away.

As a person who has used undercoating to cover sins on cars in the past, (Opel GT) I am always wary/suspicious of what this is covering up!

Guess what I am judging this time!

Cecil Longwisch

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com<mailto:kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com> 
  To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com<mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com> 
  Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 10:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [DML] Re: undercoating


  This is a great topic 
  Ugly undercoating
   
  YES even I agree with Dave that the cars that have no undercoating are more  
  shall we say awe inspiring and it was for that reason I brought a non  
  undercoated car to the last concours.
   
  BUT
  and this is a big BUT
   
  IT takes a lot more to keep an undercoated car looking nice than it does a  
  non undercoated one.
   
  I spent much much more time cleaning Gigawat vs any other non undercoated  
  car.
   




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 16:12:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: undercoating

Undercoating is used for 2 reasons. The obvious one, to try to prevent
premature rustouts, and the other less obvious is for sound control.
It adds mass to the panel and helps to prevent "drumming" while
reducing the passage of sound. Like adding Dynamat. Anyway
undercoating does help to lengthen the time required for the car to
dissolve. The probelm is nothing lasts forever. Eventually the
undercoating dries out, cracks, and moisture penetrates it to the base
metal. Now it traps the moisture and hides the damage until it is so
bad the undercoating comes off in chunks, like the epoxy paint. There
is no magic system that will last forever if you have mild steel
underneath. This is probably one of the reasons JZD had the molded
frame in mind origionally. He understood why cars wear out and was
trying to make a car that could last so long the owner would get tired
of it before it wore out. In that case you would go in for a "panel
job". In one day they would replace all the exterior panels for a
different color. Look at what happend to domestic cars produced in the
early 70's. Most had NO undercoating and many just rotted out so bad
you could see right through the fenders to the ground and all around
the wheel wells. The first big improvement was when the automakers
went to "Galvaneil". It was mild steel coated on one side with zinc.
That helped but the biggest improvement was when they started dipping
the cars and "electrocoated" them. That gets the zinc into all the
hidden spaces after all the welding. Undercoating is still used, just
a lot more sparingly. It adds weight which hurts fuel economy. On most
cars now the wheel wells are now plastic. Lighter and doesn't rot. The
holy grail now among automakers is to reduce the amount of steel and
use lighter composite or plastic parts. GEE, JZD did that over 20
years ago. I guess he was on to something, it was just that materiels
science was not up to the task at the time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> CLEANING the undercoating? You obviously have more spare time than I.
> 
> I own 5 Lincoln Mark V's. 4 of them came from the Northeast. 2 of them
> were undercoated with that black mess people use up there. Both of the
> undercoated cars suffered more road salt damage than the cars that
> were left without it:
>







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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 17:07:23 -0000
From: "Randal" <azman3us_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Soon to be a Delorean owner

VB - Thanks for the kind works. "Future"  Dan Wilson from the AZ-D 
will be at the open house as our Envoy! Look for his AZ-D name tag. 
Join our AZ-D yahoo group and check out the web site at www.az-d.org

With in 8 months we have hosted DMCH, DMC Cal, PJ Grady and 
SprcialTauto thus lots of local support and fun.


Welcome to ownership!

Randal "The 3M Guy"
AZ-D Prez



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> 
wrote:
> Future "welcome" to the group, you have some of the best DeLorean 
owners I 
> have
> ever met out there to support you in AZ, some of the coolest guys 
in the 
> community
> are out there in the AZ club, all great guys with lots of knowledge 
and they 
> will be
> there to support you.




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 18:51:18 +0100
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: DMC HOUSTON

Hi Everyone

I have owned my car "pilot25" now for over a year and in that time I have spent a hell of alot getting her to look the way it did when she left the factory.  She had been used as the factory demo vehicle for the press in 1981-82' and was refitted in late 82' with a new black/grey mix interior and sold at auction.  In the last week I have finally finished everthing that I set out to do when I first bought the car and she is sitting just the way I want.

When I first started the work I was worried that I would never be able to buy anything of the shelf for the car and would be stuck to fixing broken parts or using non-original modern versions, so I was amazed by the amount of parts that I found on the DMC Houston website that are still available to buy and their influx of new products onto the market made it so easy to get this car running again.

I would like to thank James Espey and everyone at DMC Houston for their speed of service and the quality of their new and original  products.  Without them this car would still be sitting in a barn gathering dust.

Alistair McCann
Northern Ireland
VIN# PILOT25

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 20:00:39 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuses and Headlights

Thanks to everyone who helped me with my little A/C problem.  It 
seems, however, that with this particular car, as soon as you fix 
one problem another one arises.  Last night my headlights stopped 
working.  The headlight switch turns on the parking lights and when 
in headlight position I can switch on the high beams, but the 
regular headlights will not turn on.  I looked in the relay 
compartment and it seems that another one of my fuses in the box has 
melted.

The first fuse that melted was the one for door lock, and AC switch 
control, which the previous owner fixed by placing an inline fuse 
holder in the compartment.  Granted that is a way to fix the 
problem, but it is really only a temporary fix.  With fuses like 
that melting in the box with normal usage, it is leading me to 
believe that there are serious integrity issues with the wiring 
harness.  I am not overusing, or overpowering any systems.

In the very near future, I am planning on sending the car to DMCH 
for restoration, and the more and more problems I see the more it is 
leading me to believe that #1223 is going to need one of those frame 
up restorations.  For now, I am going to put 1223 to rest in my 
garage.

Any insight as to why these fuses are melting the box would be 
appreciated.  Did the early cars have wiring problems, and has this 
happend to anyone else?

Thanks again,

Japheth Deaux
VIN: 1223 







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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 20:23:24 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New Front Fascia - (Joe OBrien)

Looks like I'm now more aerodynamic now. Ram Power!

I'm anxious to finally get it rebuilt, and back on the road. I can 
only imagine finishing it up at the NEXT tech session.

I'd win the award for longest tech session project.

Just hope I can fit my new headlights in that fascia. :-)

Hope I can eBay that thing off for a good price.


Joe O'Brien

2524,
16634,
16851








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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 16:52:48 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Old Shocks was Free Delorean Parts!

 
 
Dave S wrote about
 
1 - set 4 OEM shocks. (hard as rocks)  which made me wonder.

 
When a set of shocks are old and worn out does the ride get  hard as rocks 
too?
 
I thought I remembered that the sign of bad shocks was a  bouncing ride??
 
Can someone please set me straight with a bit of  explanation.
 
Is there a was to tell if I need new  shocks?
 
Dē & 6530



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 21:08:11 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Brake calipers

Group, 
I have re-worked the Brake and Rotor page of the web site and added
the new calipers that use the Stainless Steel piston and the calipers 
have been Cad plated $129.95 ea loaded. I also have the Stainless 
Steel painted calipers loaded for $89.95. 
Since I buy the hardware in bulk, Take a look at all the other 
hardware. The prices have been lowered and individualized for easier 
buying.
Since I also build the caliper we can build them almost any way you 
want them as well as loading them.
As alway's, I will purchase or trade for any front or rear De Lorean
brake calipers.
John Hervey
 http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/brakes-rotors.html






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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 21:28:12 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: Water Pump

Group,
I have found a water pump rebuilder that does exotic cars and has 
agreed to rebuild the De Lorean pumps for me. We got all the parts
and now have about 15 in the works and we are also cleaning up and re-
plating the original pulleys. 
Don't throw your old pumps away, I'll take and recycle them. 
He also told me the trick to get the old pulley off without damaging 
it so that has been a big help.
As you know we also have the new 4 Bolt pulley water pump and pulley 
in stock along with new pumps.
Since I can now do all this I have added the original rebuilt pump to 
the site and have fitted it with all the original hardware and pulley 
for the purest at heart or for concourse show. $149.95.
As alway's I give a 5 year warranty on all the pumps.
John Hervey
Hope yall like it.
We keep trying.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-system.html
   






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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 21:52:04 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Air Conditioner Cycles

There are several things that could cause rapid cycling and the 
system still be full. The most common is a clogged orifice tube or 
other restriction - usually caused by a defective accumulator - 
especially if it is OEM. To last 20+ years is asking a lot. Forget 
it if it has ever been exposed to open air. More likely however, you 
are low on freon.

It is 1981 technology when R-12 was 99 cents a can. The system is 
going to leak unless you go through it carefully with new seals, 
etc. My advice to you is get it to someone that can check it 
properly. BTW - I'd stay with r-12 and, at $40-$50 per pound, it is 
worth doing the seals and going through the system, especially a new 
accumulator.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I found the receipts given to me by the previous owner, and in July
> 2004 he had the Delorean Motor Center: 1. Recharge and test for 
leaks
> 2. add 2lb of r-12, 3. oil 4. two bearings. What else could cause 
the
> excessive cycling if it is not low on freon? Thanks
> 
> John
> #7009
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > That is good news. Will find somewhere they can recharge my ac, 
then
> > work on a new alt and save the ducey for a rainy day...
> > 
> > John
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "delorean3502" <delorean_at_dml_c...>
> wrote:
> > > First off cycling every 2 or 3 seconds means you are low on 
gas in
> > the AC 
> > > and needs to be recharged, should cycle every 8 to 10 seconds,
> > upgrading the 
> > > alternator to a higher output will soften the cycle kick in, 
not
> > stop it, I






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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2005 22:00:20 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cruise Control

I like the setup. How is the speed maintenance? does it stay steady?

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Some pictures of my installation are now posted.
> 
> Comments and suggestions are ecouraged...
> 
> Dē & 6530






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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 16:01:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Water Pump

John, you and I have talked on the phone alot about this.  TY for your contributions to the DeLorean community.  We all may not see the "thanks" you get from other owners privately, but from me (Fl), Jeff (NC), Eric (NC), Casey (Al), and just about every owner I keep in touch with - you do a hell of a lot for the community being basically a one man operated vendor.  Yes ppl, I used the "v" word for him.  Thanks again, John for all your help and service.
 
Jeremiah

John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
Group,
I have found a water pump rebuilder that does exotic cars and has 
agreed to rebuild the De Lorean pumps for me. We got all the parts
and now have about 15 in the works and we are also cleaning up and re-
plating the original pulleys. 
Don't throw your old pumps away, I'll take and recycle them. 
He also told me the trick to get the old pulley off without damaging 
it so that has been a big help.
As you know we also have the new 4





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 00:17:08 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Water Pump

John

I am curious what you have to say to those who think the aftermarket 
pumps are not as good as OEM ones?

I'm not trying to start an argument, and I'm sure there'll be planty of 
happy customers with your pumps, but I know a lot of this comes down to 
driving style. Over here we can get away with long journeys at high 
speed (80+mph) and its on runs like this that the pumps work hardest. I 
am genuinely curious to hear your reaction, and any other experiences 
owners may have.

I know for a fact that one of the major vendors stateside started and 
stopped using those pumps several years ago because they proved to be 
less efficient. We have had a similar experience with aftermarket Volvo 
(4-bolt) pumps. I have chosen to write this e-mail because one of these 
cars came into our shop last week. It continually loses coolant slowly 
but has no leaks and the head gaskets are absolutely fine. I've seen 
this a couple of times. I've also seen a couple of cars with aftermarket 
pumps installed where the back plate works itself loose due to the 
replacement gasket shrinking. I have bought one of your pumps in the 
past and seen that they are identical.

FWIW, original pumps are still available brand new and they include the 
back plate already mounted. We've sold countless new Renault pumps and 
had absolutely no trouble with them. I've damaged a couple of pulleys 
getting them off old pumps but the only one that couldn't be repaired 
was stretched too far and took over 12 tonned to press it off! On that 
occasion, we sourced a new pulley from you. I'm not trying to bash your 
business, I just want to see what I can learn. I am certainly not trying 
to sell pumps - the exchange rate sees to that!

I am also slightly surprised by your comment:

"He also told me the trick to get the old pulley off without damaging it 
so that has been a big help."

There's no trick - just don't try pulling them off, instead the shaft 
must be pressed out. Have you been going this long without realising that?

I am sure your rebuilt pumps are built to a high standard and will work 
as good as new. In my experience, this will be better than the 
aftermarket units.

Martin
DMUK
http://www.delorean.co.uk/DMUK/newparts1.html#pump


John Hervey wrote:

>Group,
>I have found a water pump rebuilder that does exotic cars and has 
>agreed to rebuild the De Lorean pumps for me. We got all the parts
>and now have about 15 in the works and we are also cleaning up and re-
>plating the original pulleys. 
>Don't throw your old pumps away, I'll take and recycle them. 
>He also told me the trick to get the old pulley off without damaging 
>it so that has been a big help.
>As you know we also have the new 4 Bolt pulley water pump and pulley 
>in stock along with new pumps.




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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 21:08:18 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuses and Headlights

My high beam fuse melted the area around it in the fuse box...yet the fuse 
never blew.   Kind of scary.   I too have an early car.   Don't give up on it, 
make sure the fuse terminals are clean and corrosion free.   Use a fingernail 
file and a can of compressed air to clean up the fuse sockets, this should make 
less resistance, which means less heat, which means less of a chance of 
melting.   For my high beam fuse that melted the socket, I cut the wires under it, 
wired in an external fuse holder, and tucked it neatly underneath the box.

-Patrick C.
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 01:28:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuses and Headlights

Oxidation and corrosion = resistance, resistance = heat. The heat
causes the metal connectors to lose their spring tension which again
increases resistance and heat. The fix is to clean up all the
connections and any connectors that have been overheated must be cut
off and replaced. I am refering to the blades of the fuses that get
oxidized and the connectors in the fuseblock that connect to the
fuses. You also have to go over all of the connectors in the plugs and
all the connections to the frame and other grounding points. You
should also do all the "big" connections from the battery to the
alternator, to the starter, to the engine, and the frame. Although the
electrical system in the car is so-so, after 20 years and some
corrosion it is not up to the task of running the car. It needs some
attention too so that it can work like it is supposed to. There is
such a thing as a "Repair Curve". It will seem everytime you use the
car there will be one or more things that don't work right. YOu have
to fix them and then other things happen. If you keep up with things
as the fail eventually you will start to get ahead and less and less
things will go wrong. This is the piecemeal approach. It can take a
long time and be very frustrating. The other way to go is to just go
over every major system in the car BEFORE it causes problems. You
don't have to be a fortune teller to know this. The brakes WILL leak
if the fluid looks like mud. The car WILL overheat if you are running
the origional hoses, belts, and coolant. The engine WILL run like cr-p
if you have the origional spark plugs and ignition wires. I could go
on and on but all you have to do is look in the archives and you will
see all the common problems. Most are age related due to old, worn out
parts. New owners are in for the biggest rude awakening because in
many cases they want a 20+ year old car to work like new. Never mind
that the previous owners and their mechanics never really took car of
the car like they should have, it still looks nice. One of the first
things a new owner should do is change ALL fluids and filters.
Cleaning all the fuses and making sure they have the correct size in
the correct spot is also VERY important. And all of the connectors
still have spring in them and have not been overheated.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy"
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who helped me with my little A/C problem.  It 
> seems, however, that with this particular car, as soon as you fix 
> one problem another one arises.  Last night my headlights stopped 
> working.  The headlight switch turns on the parking lights and when 
>






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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 01:10:08 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Water Pump

Are the OE and aftermarket pumps not the same? The only difference I
could think of is impellor. I have one of John's pumps, and have no
problems. Side note: Seems vendors AND owners alike are having much
trouble removing the pulley. Sometime in it's life-the old pulley was
ground down a little inside so it would fit on the shaft easier-and
removal was a breeze. When I put it on the new pump I did have to do a
bit of hammering to get it on (I'd imagine the new pulleys have to be
pressed with lots of force-much more then I needed to put mine on) all
I did was drill a hole clean through the pulley and shaft, and drove a
pin through it. NOW, I can still reuse the pulley no matter how many
times I need to take it off (without damage), removal and installation
will be much easier (no presses needed nor do I need to destroy the
pump getting the pulley off) should I ever need to replace the pump
again. Perhaps John or another vendor can use this technique? FYI,
when I removed my pulley, all I did was dangled the pump in a vice so
that the pulley was on the top of the teeth, the shaft vertical.
Heated the pulley so it was HOTT, and started hammering away (put
something in the shaft hole of course), pulled right off. Pump
removal/installation took me only 2.5 hours. -----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> John
> 
> I am curious what you have to say to those who think the aftermarket 
> pumps are not as good as OEM ones?
> 
> I'm not trying to start an argument, and I'm sure there'll be planty of 
> happy customers with your pumps, but I know a lot of this comes down to 
> driving style. Over here we can get away with long journeys at high 
> speed (80+mph) and its on runs like this that the pumps work hardest. I 
> am genuinely curious to hear your reaction, and any other experiences 
> owners may have.
> 
> I know for a fact that one of the major vendors stateside started and 
> stopped using those pumps several years ago because they proved to be 
> less efficient. 




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 01:45:58 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cruise Control

The speed is quite steady.  I haven't climbed any really steep grades 
yet.

The accelation is a bit slow, as in when you use the Accel button to go 
faster.

Dē & 6530


> I like the setup. How is the speed maintenance? does it stay steady?
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354








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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 01:54:30 -0000
From: "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: A/C High Pressure Hose

The high pressure hose, (the smaller, lower hose coming off the
compressor) blew up and I need to replace it.
I got a new one from DMCH and now I need to put it on.
It seems to be a real bugger to get the old one off
and I don't see how the heck the new one goes back on.

Has anyone done this before, and do you have any tips
as how to do it?

Thanks,
- Videobob






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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 19:37:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Japheth Deaux <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Fuses and Headlights

You are absolutely right about that statement you made
about new owners receiving a rude awakening.  To be
honest, when I purchased the car I knew full and well
what I was getting myself into.  I never expected it
to run like new.

One of the first things I actually did, (since it had
about 60K miles on it).  Was replace all spark plugs,
filters, oil, trans fluid, and cleaned all exterior
electrical connectors, from the battery to the
alternator (which I just replaced with a 140 amp
Hervey alt. and other than the headlamps, all other
electrical systems run great now with no loss of
power).  I just did not even think about the
connectors to the fuses.  When I have a chance I will
deffinately make a point to clean all remaining fuses
and connectors.  The fuse that melted was, in fact,
the low beams fuse.  I checked it in the manual.  The
fuse that melted is a 30A and in the manual it is
listed as being a 20A, I'm not sure if that had
anything to do with it or not but maybe.  

I am also happy to know that I CAN splice an in-line
fuse holder for the headlamps now.  I just wasn't sure
how safe that was considering the age of the harness
itself and the fact that it was already done to
another one of the fuses.



--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:

> Oxidation and corrosion = resistance, resistance =
> heat. The heat
> causes the metal connectors to lose their spring
> tension which again
> increases resistance and 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 22:42:05 -0400
From: "Jason Sisto" <wizard_at_dml_tdgllc.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Painted Red

Lingo:
 
Check out http://www.sk1pper.com/paint_removal.htm  The guy is pretty knowledgable about paint removal.  I agree with David, use the paint remover (aircarft brand from WalMart works good).  I also have a red Delorean and will be removing the paint.  I did a test on a GM fender I got from a junk yard and found out several things...1) make sure you do it outside or where there is great ventalation; 2) AVOID any rubber parts..removal all panels (except doors) to be safe; 3) make sure you do it on a surface that you do not care about because the paint removed will stain concrete, wood, etc.
 
Good Luck!!
 
Jason

	-----Original Message----- 
	From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net] 
	Sent: Sun 6/5/2005 1:44 AM 
	To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com 
	Cc: 
	Subject: [DML] Re: Painted Red
	
	

	There are 4 ways to remove paint. You can sand it off, you can blast
	it off with different kinds of media and you can chemicaly dissolve
	it. It can also be burnt off but it is not very practical. The method





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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 21:48:47 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Water Pump

Dan, Now that I have a pump builder that doesn't care how the pump comes to
him, The shaft presses out the back using the pump as the support. I have
done several and it works, again because I have a rebuilder that doesn't
care.
P.S. No need to destroy the pump or the pulley, send me the old water pumps.
I'll rebuild recycle them along with selling OE new ones.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of stainlessilusion
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 7:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Water Pump


Are the OE and aftermarket pumps not the same? The only difference I
could think of is impellor. I have one of John's pumps, and have no
problems. Side note: Seems vendors AND owners alike are having much
trouble removing the pulley. 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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