From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2661
Date: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 8:08 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Cruise control Audiovox CCS-100
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

2. Re: Water Pump (Pulley)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: Re: Cruise Control
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

4. Re: A/C High Pressure Hose
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Re: Water Pump
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: A/C High Pressure Hose
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Replacing thermostat and coolant.
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

8. Re: Fuses and Headlights
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>

9. RE: Old Shocks was Free Delorean Parts!
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Cruise control - no joy!
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>

11. Tom's Mirrors
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>

12. Restoring interior trim... What to use?
From: "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. RE: Re: Painted Red
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>

14. Delo cam and rocker specs
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>

15. Re: Driver's side window trouble
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

16. LH Steering Rack Boot
From: "Wayne Wagner" <aa9dy_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

17. DMC (Texas) Operating Hours and Open House Info
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

18. Re: Re: Cruise control Audiovox CCS-100
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

19. Struts Revisited
From: "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_aol.com>

20. Setting CO mixture using a dwell meter ?
From: "dcsj4465" <dcsj_at_dml_excite.com>

21. DeLorean Owners Association offer
From: "deloreanpat" <deloreanpat_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Delorean Window Tinting and recommended upgrades
From: "edgarsarino" <edgarsarino_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. RE: Water Pump
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. Re: Restoring interior trim... What to use?
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

25. New collector insurance
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 21:12:22 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cruise control Audiovox CCS-100

I've cruised down the freeway _at_dml_ 90mph+ with the cruise locked. I've
got many many hours of cruise control use in now and have never had a
problem. Further -- due to the angle at which my installation pulls on
the throttle spool, it isn't even capable of pulling it far enough to
cause the cable to fall off.

Load on the engine doesn't matter; what matters is how much the cruise
cable can unspool the throttle cable.

-Ryan

On 6/5/05, doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Marc V. said...I also turned the spool by hand up to 4000RPM  with no
> problems.
> 
> But I say, again,  that was with no load on the engine. (I  presume you were
> not in the engine compartment while driving the car...)
> 
> It also depends on the bias or twisted state of the throttle cable as to
> whether or not it has a tendency to swing up or down off the spool  when it  is
> not being held tightly in the grooves of the throttle spool.
> 
> Dē & 6530
> 
> Message:  15
> Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 21:49:12  -0500
> From: DMCVIN6683  <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: Cruise control Audiovox  CCS-100
> 
> I also turned the spool by hand up to 4000RPM with no  problems.
> 
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 04:35:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Water Pump (Pulley)

Because I can remove my intake manifold in 3-4 minutes, I may have you
beat on time to change the water pump...

If thin OEM pulleys are so difficult to work with, I'd recommend
pressing a Volvo flange onto the shaft and bolting on either Darryl
Tinnerstet's pulley or a Volvo steel one with the outer belt groove
filed or ground off (to prevent interference with the A/C belt). Volvo
flange is at least 1/2" thick -- presses on & off no problem, no heat
necessary.

Advance computer shows a flange already pressed on their replacement pump.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Are the OE and aftermarket pumps not the same? The only difference I
> could think of is impellor. I have one of John's pumps, and have no
> problems. Side note: Seems vendors AND owners alike are having much
> trouble removing the pulley. Sometime in it's life-the old pulley was
> ground down a little inside so it would fit on the shaft easier-and
> removal was a breeze. When I put it on the new pump I did have to do a
> bit of hammering to get it on (I'd imagine the new pulleys have to be
> pressed with lots of force-much more then I needed to put mine on) all
> I did was drill a hole clean through the pulley and shaft, and drove a
> pin through it. NOW, I can still reuse the pulley no matter how many
> times I need to take it off (without damage), removal and installation
> will be much easier (no presses needed nor do I need to destroy the
> pump getting the pulley off) should I ever need to replace the pump
> again. Perhaps John or another vendor can use this technique? FYI,
> when I removed my pulley, all I did was dangled the pump in a vice so
> that the pulley was on the top of the teeth, the shaft vertical.
> Heated the pulley so it was HOTT, and started hammering away (put
> something in the shaft hole of course), pulled right off. Pump
> removal/installation took me only 2.5 hours. -----Dani B. #5003
> 







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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 21:08:25 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cruise Control

On 6/5/05, drdhdmd <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> The speed is quite steady.  I haven't climbed any really steep grades
> yet.
> 
> The accelation is a bit slow, as in when you use the Accel button to go
> faster.
> 

That's due to dip switches 4 & 5 being misconfigured. From my install
(http://www.ryanwright.com/delorean/ccs100/):

"Switches 4 & 5 control your sensitivity. It seems most people want to
set this to LOW; I think that's due to the "Light vehicles w/high
horse power" text. Everyone wants to think their vehicle is light with
high horse power. Most of them aren't, especially not a stock
DeLorean. Setting this to LOW will result in sluggish cruise control
performance. This means it will be slow to lock in and accelerate via
the control panel. I set this to MEDIUM, and it's much more
acceptable. If you find the cruise is too responsive for your tastes,
then you can set this back to LOW, but I doubt you'll want to do that.
(I did try HIGH. It was nice, but a little excessive for my tastes.)

MEDIUM (most vehicles) setting:
Switch 4: OFF
Switch 5: OFF"

Change the dip switches and it will respond much better.

-Ryan




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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 04:48:57 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: A/C High Pressure Hose

It's just held flat against the back of the compressor, along with the
low side, by a bracket and common bolt. Don't forget to change the O
rings.

Your problem is going to be at the other end, where it connects to the
condensor. That fitting will most likely be quite difficult to remove
(is screwed together). Condensor plumbing is thin, so be careful
wrenching on it. Don't forget to replace the O ring inside.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> The high pressure hose, (the smaller, lower hose coming off the
> compressor) blew up and I need to replace it.
> I got a new one from DMCH and now I need to put it on.
> It seems to be a real bugger to get the old one off
> and I don't see how the heck the new one goes back on.
> 
> Has anyone done this before, and do you have any tips
> as how to do it?
> 
> Thanks,
> - Videobob







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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 04:51:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Water Pump

It is not "Good Practice" to hammer on the water pump. Especially
during reassembly. The seal is very brittle and hammering can crack
it. It is much easier on everything to press it smoothly together. If
you don't have a press take it to someone that has one and give him a
beer. You don't want to put the whole engine back together and find
out the water pump seal is bad because you hammered it. You can also
damage the bearings and that won't become evident for a little while.
Pinning the pulley is a bad idea because if you don't get it exactly
right on the shaft you have to remove the pin, reset the pulley, and
redrill the shaft. Better to get the bolt-on pulley. Or better yet
just get the right pump AND pulley from a "D" vender!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Are the OE and aftermarket pumps not the same? The only difference I
> could think of is impellor. I have one of John's pumps, and have no
> problems. Side note: Seems vendors AND owners alike are having much
> trouble removing the pulley. Sometime in it's life-the old pulley was
> g








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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 04:56:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: A/C High Pressure Hose

I am suprised DMCH did not tell you how to change the hose. I am sure
if you ask nicely they will give you all the info on doing it that you
or your shop will need. You do not have to lift or remove the body to
do it but there is a trick! Be very careful and hold back on the
fitting on the condensor core or you will tear it off and have to buy
a new condensor too. The condensor is aluminum and can be damaged very
easily.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> The high pressure hose, (the smaller, lower hose coming off the
> compressor) blew up and I need to replace it.
> I got a new one from DMCH and now I need to put it on.
> It seems to be a real bugger to get the old one off
> 






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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 11:27:18 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Replacing thermostat and coolant.

My car overheated on Saturday, dumping a lot of coolant in my 
driveway through the overflow.  I ordered a new thermostat, and have 
two new left and right main hoses to replace the existing spongy 
ones.  I am also waiting for the stainless overflow bottle to 
arrive.  I want all the parts together before I take apart.  I think 
I also need to order the gasket/s for the air intake manifold, as 
that needs to come off to replace the thermostat.  Not sure if the 
thermostat is bad, but since I am taking it out to check, I might as 
well replace.  The waterpump seems fine, and is dry and quiet.

My overheating issue has been intermittent, as I have written on 
this post before - I was just waiting for the stainless bottle 
before checking some items.  I can go on one trip and no problems, 
then on another the temp gauge wouild creep up, then drop again, and 
be fine.  This Saturday, the gauge climbed to 240 deg., then dropped 
again to normal, then creeped up again as I got the car home.  After 
parking it, it dumped hot coolant.  Perhaps it's not the thermostst, 
btu since I was replacing hoses, I thought I'd rule the thermostat 
out too.

Is this job involved, or relatively easy?  Any other parts I need or 
surprises to be aware of when I replace these parts?

The radiator was replaced by previous owner a few months ago, and is 
new 3-core type.

Also, it's been years since I've worked on a coolant system. After 
replacing hoses, thermostat and bottle, how do I refill with 
coolant?  My car has the bleeder kit installed.  Do I just keep 
filling coolant into the over flow bottle and run the engine to 
cycle through until the level stabilizes in the bottle?  Also, what 
coolant is best, and do I need to mix with distilled water?

If it isn't the thermostat, I guess my next check is the otterstat?

Thanks for any help,

Paul






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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 12:02:38 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Fuses and Headlights

Dont' give up...Everything David says is true. When I bought my car
it 
seems every trip around the block led to 3 more repairs. I had at
least 
50 things to fix ranging from a water pump down to a melted number 7 
fuse socket. The problems you have are the same ones we have all had.
I 
am now helping a local owner with his list of 50 things. Each time he 
comes over we fix 3-4 but then discover 2 new things that need
repair. 
Its people on this list that will get your car going. You just need
to 
drive it and let the problems occur close to home. Eventually you
will 
get the car ready for daily use. My car had me so frustrated I was 
afraid to go around the block because it stranded me twice. But after 
following the help of the people on this list and learning how to fix 
things the right way my car runs great. I have gone to TN, Pitt
twice, 
NY 3 times and feel confident taking my car anywhere. David T. even 
spent an entire Saturday a few years back helping me work on some 
problems. My best advice is find some local owners that work on their 
cars and by them food :-) If there is a club in your area contact
them.

Mike C
2109








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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 07:23:14 -0500
From: "Joseph Kuchan" <josephkuchan_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Old Shocks was Free Delorean Parts!

The shocks don't get harder as they age. Dave is just saying that the 
original shocks, which were built to the '80's notion of a "performance" 
suspension, are hard as rocks. That's the way performace suspensions were 
designed in the 80's. Today we have much better shock designs with valving 
that permits a reasonably soft ride while still maintaining control. But the 
typical way control was achieved in the 80's was by making the shocks 
extremely stiff.

-Joe Kuchan

>From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Old Shocks was Free Delorean Parts!
>Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 16:52:48 EDT
>
>
>
>Dave S wrote about
>
>1 - set 4 OEM shocks. (hard as rocks)  which made me wonder.
>
>
>When a set of shocks are old and worn out does the ride get  hard as rocks
>too?
>
>I thought I remembered that the sign of bad shocks was a  bouncing ride??
>
>Can someone please set me straight with a bit of  explanation.
>
>Is there a was to tell if I need new  shocks?
>
>Dē & 6530
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 13:11:50 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>
Subject: Cruise control - no joy!

I installed the Audiovox ccs-100 on my D, following Ryan's great 
site and the included instructions. Tried it out, didn't work. 
Checked everything according to the manual, all voltages present at 
the correct pins, connection to coil Ohm-ed out, vacuum connected to 
the large hose that enters the left pontoon, air gap at the pickut 
1/8", but I didn't get the flashes of the LED in the control unit 
when each signal was tried. So I called audiovox and they said it 
was probably bad. Called Brand's Place for a return and ordered 
another. Found out from the manager there that several units of the 
ccs-100 have been returned as defective recently. I ordered another 
anyway and installed it on my D.

This time, I see very faint flashes of the LED, but still no 
operation. The serial number of the new unit is far removed from 
that of the first one I tried, so I had high hopes that if there 
were a series of bad units, I would now have a good one.

Ryan, you mentioned in earlier posts when you were trying to get 
your unit working that you had insufficient vacuum. What were you 
readings and how did you fix it? I am tied in at the location you 
suggested on your site.

I am about to order the Dakota Digital electronic cruise control 
that uses the spedometer cable to control the speed and requires no 
vacuum. Has anyone on the list used one of these successfully? It is 
$250 vs $80 for the Audiovox, but I really wanted to get this 
working before the LOOONG drive to Houston Thursday.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Marty Galbreath
#3765






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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 13:20:20 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty_at_dml_mediamergeinc.com>
Subject: Tom's Mirrors

I received my convex mirrors from Tom Niemczewski this past Friday
and 
put them on Saturday. Took only about ten minutes as I had applied
the 
previous ones using Velcro in anticipation of getting these. 

Wow! What a difference! Confidence level when driving the car rose 
significantly now that I can see what's behind me.  These are great 
mirrors and very well made. 

They came with the heater circuit but I didn't hook that up because I 
have used up all the extra wires in the doors hooking up Toby's Wings-
a-loft. We really don't need heated mirrors so much In Alabama anyway.

Marty Galbreath
#3765







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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 15:44:48 -0000
From: "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Restoring interior trim... What to use?

Hello group,

I have recently begun taking out my interior trim with the purpose of
cleaning it and detailing it before reinstalling it. I was wondering
what my fellow DMC owners used to treat and protect their various
pieces of vinyl (center console, dash, kneepads, etc.) I have heard
grumblings about Armor All, but I never understood why people were so
against using it.

On another note, upon removal of my kneepads I discovered that a few
of the posts have split and are falling apart. Is there a way to fix
these without having to buy all new ones?

Thanks for any and all help!

Brandon
#4205







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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 12:31:30 -0500
From: "Kermit Poling" <KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Re: Painted Red

The process of removing the paint is hard work, but I think well worth
it.  The guy I bought my car from said he spent 4 months working on it,
but he did a great job and you may want to ask him for advice.  His name
is Ryan Gould with the Arizona D Club - www.az-d.org.

I have some pics of the car if you'd like a little inspiration...the
following link has pics of the car in red and as I currently have it
now:
http://tinyurl.com/d7kd3

KP
4547 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Jason Sisto
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:42 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Painted Red

Lingo:
 
Check out http://www.sk1pper.com/paint_removal.htm  The guy is pretty
knowledgable about paint removal.  I agree with David, use the paint
remover (aircarft brand from WalMart works good).  I also have a red
Delorean and will be removing the paint.  I did a test on a GM fender I
got from a junk yard and found out several things...1) make sure you do
it outside or where there is great ventalation; 2) AVOID any rubber
parts..removal all panels (except doors) to be safe; 3) make sure you do
it on a surface that you do not care about because the paint removed
will stain concrete, wood, etc.
 
Good Luck!!
 
Jason

[moderator snip]




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 17:45:20 -0000
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>
Subject: Delo cam and rocker specs

Does anyone have the specs for the stock Delorean cams?  Anyone know 
the ratio on the rockers?  Anyone have any experience having 
performance cams made?  Thanks, Rick







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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 19:03:34 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Driver's side window trouble

I am trying to get to the window motor.  I have window guide 
problems (that I think I fixed with the "sandwich washer" solution 
that was posted here - works well, but the "rails" they ride on seem 
too far forward.  The window tracks nicely now, but about an inch 
too far forward, then pops the track trying to squeeze backwards 
into the right position!).  When the motor assembly was replaced, 
the previous owner must have wired something backwards, because I 
have to push the arrow "up" button to make the window go down, and 
vice versa - opposite of how the switch works for the passenger 
window. 

I can get the top door panel off easily, but am a little nervous 
about the lower panel.  What screws/fasteners do I remove on the 
lower half to get access to door actuator and window motor, guide 
rails, etc?

Thanks,

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:
> My guess is that the window motor is bad. I read a post earlier 
that 
> mentioned a way to wake your motor up without removing the door 
panel. 
> Carefully remove the door light closest to the front of the door 
> without actually unplugging it. Get a flashlight and locate the 
motor. 
> Get a punch and hammer and give the motor a tap. Maybe have 
someone 
> hold the button in the up position as you tap the motor. It should 
not 
> take more than a few taps, so don't over do it. You will now it's 
a 
> motor issue if anything different happens in the window operation.
> 
> Read more replies before attempting this. You will know this is 
good 
> advice if someone else can back me up.
> I just replaced my passenger door window motor and regulator 
assembly. 
> It was a piece of cake. Door panels are good quality and come off 
> relatively easy. My regulator tape seized, I bought a NOS set up. 
> Works beautiful. Have whomever you buy the motor from, send you 
the 
> instructions. 
> 
> BC
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "coreysmoo" <coreysmoo_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > When I put my driver's side window down, it does not come back 
up.  
> Then 
> > later on, sometimes weeks later, I will push the switch randomly 
and 
> it will go 
> > up.  What causes this?  It goes down every time.  but it only 
seems 
> to come up 
> > when it wants to.







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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 19:14:45 -0000
From: "Wayne Wagner" <aa9dy_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: LH Steering Rack Boot

According to the manual for changing out the LH Steering Rack Boot,
I'm 
supposed to pull out the steering rack.  Doesn't seem too bad of an 
operation.  

The only thing I am wondering... Is there a specialized tool for 
removing the tie rod from the steering knuckle?  And do I have to 
remove the LH tie rod end to slip on the boot?

Thanks.

Regards,
Wayne / #2447
www.AA9DY.com






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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 14:35:45 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: DMC (Texas) Operating Hours and Open House Info

In preparation for the DMC (Texas) 2005 Open House Event, we will have 
slightly altered hours this week.

Monday - Wednesday ... 8:00am - 5:30pm

Thursday - Friday  ... Showroom will be closed to the public, but phones 
will be answered and orders, including web orders, will be processed as 
usual. Emergency parts pickup at the Humble location will be handled as 
required, call and speak with Warren for this.

-------------------

Open House attendees may pick up Registration Packets at the Hotel 
Sofitel from 2:00pm  to 5:00pm Friday afternoon. Registration packets 
will also be available for pickup Friday evening at the Humble location 
beginning when the doors open at 6:30pm.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Regards,

James Espey

------------------------------------
DeLorean Motor Company
Vice President
james_at_dml_delorean.com
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA
tel: 800/872-3621
tel2:281/441-2537
fax: 281/441-2813
http://www.delorean.com
------------------------------------





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 16:20:49 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cruise control Audiovox CCS-100

I just put over 700 trouble free miles on my car since Saturday 4-05. 
No problems at all. I was in stop and go traffic, speeds about 110MPH 
and lots of heavy beating to test this cruise control out.

No problems for over 700 miles so far.

The 700 miles were put on during the Hotrod Power Tour this past 
weekend. I went from Miller Park in Milwaukee, WI to Springfield, Il. 
No Problems with the Cruise Control messing with anything.

Mark V



On Jun 5, 2005, at 8:57 AM, doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>
>
> Marc V. said...I also turned the spool by hand up to 4000RPM  with no
> problems.
>
> But I say, again,  that was with no load on the engine. (I  presume 
> you were
> not in the engine compartment while driving the car...)
>
> It also depends on the bias or twisted state of the throttle cable as 
> to
> whether or not it has a tendency to swing up or down off the spool  
> when it  is
> not being held tightly in the grooves of the throttle spool.
>
> Dē & 6530
>
> Message:  15
> Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2005 21:49:12  -0500
> From: DMCVIN6683  <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: Cruise control Audiovox  CCS-100
>
> I also turned the spool by hand up to 4000RPM with no  problems.
>
>
> Mark V
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 22:01:24 -0000
From: "Scot Stern" <Scotstern_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Struts Revisited

I wanted to share with you my recent experience regarding new struts 
and then ask a question.

I recently started an email dialog with Toby concerning struts and I 
purchased two of his temperature compensated struts primarily to try 
something different and to be covered by his lifetime warranty.  They 
seemed like a good investment.

The communication was excellent, the shipment was fast and they arrived 
via US Postal Service well packaged.  The shipping charges were totally 
reasonable, so all-in-all it was a favorable experience.

I installed them on the Delorean and here are my findings:

The torsion bars appeared to be similar on both sides in that without a 
strut installed on the door, if they were gently lowered, they would 
stay open about 2 to 3 inches measured at the bottom.  Since this was 
the "bottom" of the spec I was worried that I might have to "adjust" 
them in order to get the new struts to function properly.

I installed the new struts on both doors and they both reacted in the 
same way.  They go all of the way up with a strong action and if left 
alone, they "bounce" slightly that the top end of the travel.

I am not too upset by the strength of the struts as I don't drive the 
car too much and I can easily "assist" the process by providing some 
resistance in order to protect the mounts.  They may soften a little 
with use but I think that overall, they will be fine.  If I had a 
choice, I would want them to be a bit more gently but then again, if 
that were the case, they may not open all of the way or stay open.

Now for my question....

Which way is the proper method for mounting them or does it make a 
difference?  My old ones were mounted with the cylinder at the top and 
strut at the bottom.  I mounted the drivers side the same way and then 
by accident I mounted the passenger side the other way.  It did not 
seem to make any difference.  Which is correct?

Thanks,

Scot Stern
6452



 







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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 22:54:15 -0000
From: "dcsj4465" <dcsj_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Setting CO mixture using a dwell meter ?

Hi everyone,

Does anyone know the procedure for setting/checking the CO mixture 
using a dwell meter inline with the frequency valve? Specificly how do 
you hook the meter into the system? I have been told by a reliable 
source it can be done this way and that you want the dwell meter to 
read 45-50. is this accurate?

Thanks 

Dennis 5180







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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 00:32:58 -0000
From: "deloreanpat" <deloreanpat_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean Owners Association offer

Hi everyone,

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the Association is giving 
away sets of DW with a three year membership while their supplies 
last.  I just got a postcard in the mail highlighting the offer.  
Those magazines have pretty much every technical advice you could 
want to know so I think it's a great deal for any one.

So forgive my shameless plug for my club, but I think it's a benefit 
to anyone in the DeLorean community:
http://www.delorean-owners.org/doa/join.html

I've been reading for a few years...I never posted because I'm a 
member of the DOA and a customer of D1.  For whatever reason, these 
seem to be great taboos on this list, so I prefer not to be 
particularly public.  I don't care much for the politics.

There seems to be some restructuring going on with the DOA.  I had 
my car in with Ed recently and he says he resigned from the DOA 
board to focus on his business.  There's some new young blood too.  
It may be a great time to get involved.









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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 01:02:04 -0000
From: "edgarsarino" <edgarsarino_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean Window Tinting and recommended upgrades

To all,

Can anyone recommend a good window tinting company in the Las Vegas area?

Also, what basic upgrades would you recommend?  Are there any upgrades we should 
have done specifically for desert conditions?  

This Delorean has been mostly garaged since we accquired it twenty years ago, but we will 
be using it as a daily driver once restored.

Thank you all for your help.  I always learn something new from the daily posts.

- Edgar Sarino






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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2005 21:41:17 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Water Pump

Martin,
We had this same conversation a year or so ago when Houston was saying that
if wasn't their pump or a Renault pump, then it wasn't any good and was
classed Aftermarket. First let me say PRV6 Not PRVD6. The pumps I use are OE
in every way and I proved it on the web site by comparing the construction
of the pump and the size of the impeller for water flow on the back of the
pump with what we can get over here which come from one of the European
countries. We have no pump manufactures over here. They are the same pump.
Also, Since I'm a parts man, I have looked at a lot of pumps that came in
different pretty boxes and I can almost tell you who made the part inside.
As best I can tell there were or are 3 water pump manufactures that made
pumps for The PRV6 and the Delorean one of them as stopped because the molds
wore out. I talked to them thru the US rep and they aren't going to re tool.
Also, the importers over here keep going up and blaming it on the EURO so I
am now importing my pumps direct from the manufacture again ( over there ).
I will say this, Me and another large DeLorean vendor were and are getting
our new pumps from the same source, so if something was going to be wrong
then it would have happened long before I showed up. I have only sold about
300 + pumps in the 4 + years I have been selling parts and have not had one
pump that I can recall that has come back for improper operation. That's why
I can give a 5 year warranty. They just don't give problems and if it did I
will just give you another new pump.
 As far as gaskets, Gaskets are thin in a lot of cases and go on that way
and then swell as water begins to soak in. The are several grades of
gaskets, but most of those problems don't show up for years. I just took an
original pump off a car that was leaking on the back plate. It had been on
20+ years.
As far as the pulley, Most people try to take the pulley off and wind up
destroying it because like me not thinking it doesn't matter. The pump has
to come apart to be rebuilt and the re-builder may give you trouble if you
give them the pump in pieces.
Again, Most of the small remanufactures over here have been forced out of
business by either big business or insurance. They just flat can't afford
the insurance so they close down. The DFW area being 3+ million people used
to be full of every type of rebuilder there is, but now most are gone.
Cardone, is as far as I know the largest rebuilder in the US and they are as
I understand self insured and I haven't been impressed with the production
line quality they put out. That's why It's nice to find someone over here
that still cares about quality.
Hope this answers a lot of questions.
My hands are tired from hunt and pecking.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
We look and try to do it better.





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Martin Gutkowski
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 5:17 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Water Pump


John

I am curious what you have to say to those who think the aftermarket
pumps are not as good as OEM ones?

I'm not trying to start an argument, and I'm sure there'll be planty of
happy customers with your pumps, but I know a lot of this comes down to
driving style. Over here we can get away with long journeys at high
speed (80+mph) and its on runs like this that the pumps work hardest. I
am genuinely curious to hear your reaction, and any other experiences
owners may have.

I know for a fact that one of the major vendors stateside started and
stopped using those pumps several years ago because they proved to be
less efficient. We have had a similar experience with aftermarket Volvo
(4-bolt) pumps. I have chosen to write this e-mail because one of these
cars came into our shop last week. It continually loses coolant slowly
but has no leaks and the head gaskets are absolutely fine. I've seen
this a couple of times. I've also seen a couple of cars with aftermarket
pumps installed where the back plate works itself loose due to the
replacement gasket shrinking. I have bought one of your pumps in the
past and seen that they are identical.

FWIW, original pumps are still available brand new and they include the
back plate already mounted. We've sold countless new Renault pumps and
had absolutely no trouble with them. I've damaged a couple of pulleys
getting them off old pumps but the only one that couldn't be repaired
was stretched too far and took over 12 tonned to press it off! On that
occasion, we sourced a new pulley from you. I'm not trying to bash your
business, I just want to see what I can learn. I am certainly not trying
to sell pumps - the exchange rate sees to that!

I am also slightly surprised by your comment:

"He also told me the trick to get the old pulley off without damaging it
so that has been a big help."

There's no trick - just don't try pulling them off, instead the shaft
must be pressed out. Have you been going this long without realising that?

I am sure your rebuilt pumps are built to a high standard and will work
as good as new. In my experience, this will be better than the
aftermarket units.

Martin
DMUK
http://www.delorean.co.uk/DMUK/newparts1.html#pump


John Hervey wrote:

>Group,
>I have found a water pump rebuilder that does exotic cars and has
>agreed to rebuild the De Lorean pumps for me. We got all the parts
>and now have about 15 in the works and we are also cleaning up and re-
>plating the original pulleys.
>Don't throw your old pumps away, I'll take and recycle them.
>He also told me the trick to get the old pulley off without damaging
>it so that has been a big help.
>As you know we also have the new 4 Bolt pulley water pump and pulley
>in stock along with new pumps.




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 02:05:39 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: Re: Restoring interior trim... What to use?

I can't speak to the cleaning of the vinyl, but I have used two part 5 
min. epoxy to fix the split plastic that holds the threaded posts.  I 
just troweled it aroung the section of post that is in the plastic, 
set it in and held the split plastic around the post until the epoxy 
was stiff enough.  Once dried, the posts did not move.

Paul

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello group,
> 
> I have recently begun taking out my interior trim with the purpose of
> cleaning it and detailing it before reinstalling it. I was wondering
> what my fellow DMC owners used to treat and protect their various
> pieces of vinyl (center console, dash, kneepads, etc.) I have heard
> grumblings about Armor All, but I never understood why people were so
> against using it.
> 
> On another note, upon removal of my kneepads I discovered that a few
> of the posts have split and are falling apart. Is there a way to fix
> these without having to buy all new ones?
> 
> Thanks for any and all help!
> 
> Brandon
> #4205








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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 21:37:40 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: New collector insurance

http://www.anpac.com/AmericanNat/auto/index.htm

I was at the Hotrod Power Tour and heard of this new insurance called 
CHROME for our cars. They have a 10,000 mile no restriction driving 
ability.

I know http://www.Hagerty.com has driving restrictions and so does 
http://www.aoncollectorcar.com/

Does anybody have any comments about this new company i found?

Does it sound good or bad?

Mark V





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