From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2663
Date: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 7:34 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Value of 3500 mile 83 DMC automatic in Toledo Ohio
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Restoring interior trim... What to use?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Found VIN 1402 in Annapolis Maryland
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Replacing thermostat and coolant.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. RE: Re: A/C High Pressure Hose
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

6. RE: Re: A/C High Pressure Hose
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

7. Re: LH Steering Rack Boot
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Air Conditioning
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Restoring interior trim... What to use?
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

10. Come one, come all to the SUMMER FUN RUN II
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>

11. Value of 3500 mile 83 DMC automatic in Toledo Ohio VIN 16558
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: ticking- compresion
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Classic Motorsports article
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. RE: DeLorean Owners Association offer
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: LH Steering Rack Boot
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>

16. Re: DeLorean Owners Association offer
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: Replacing thermostat and coolant.
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>

18. RE: New collector insurance
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>

19. RE: Tom's Mirrors
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>

20. ANPAC collector insurance customer
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

21. Re: Restoring interior trim... What to use?
From: "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: DeLorean Owners Association offer
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. VIN 5003
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

24. Shifter Problem
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>

25. A/C Problems (necessarily long)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 23:33:34 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Value of 3500 mile 83 DMC automatic in Toledo Ohio

Hello Gentleman:
 
Drove out to Toledo Ohio & looked at an 83 black interior automatic  DeLorean 
with 3500 miles this weekend. Car may or may not run as it was stored  away...
 
 
Frame looked good, as did the body & interior. Car has all paperwork  and 
memorabilia. Owner passed away and family does not know anything about  
DeLoreans. The family is asking $18,000 for the car...way too much for a non  runner?
 
Sincerely,
Michael Pack
 
 
NOTE:   THIS DOCUMENT MAY CONTAIN CONFIDENTIAL AND NONPUBLIC INFORMATION.  IT 
IS  INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL(S) OR ENTITY(IES) NAMED 
ABOVE, AND  OTHERS SPECIFICALLY AUTHORIZED TO RECEIVE IT.  If you are not the 
intended  recipient of this document, you are notified that any review, 
dissemination,  distribution or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have 
 received this communication in error, please notify me immediately by return 
 email, delete the electronic message and destroy any printed copies.  Thank  
you for your cooperation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 03:37:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Restoring interior trim... What to use?

For cleaning you can try soap and water, alcohol, simple green,
windex, etc. I use Clean One from Snap-On. It really works but so do
the other things I mention, just not as well. I finish with Windex, it
leave the surface streak-free, and not sticky. Any good epoxy should
be OK for repairing the posts.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> I can't speak to the cleaning of the vinyl, but I have used two part 5 
> min. epoxy to fix the split plastic that holds the threaded posts.  I 
> just troweled it aroung the section of post that is in the plastic, 
> set it in and held the split plastic around the post until the epoxy 
>






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 23:41:42 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Found VIN 1402 in Annapolis Maryland


Hello Gentleman:
 
Went to the Naval Base Store (near US Naval Academy) here in Annapolis to  
purchase a new Stainless Steel Weber Grill. When I finished putting the grill in 
 the trunk, I saw a DeLorean sitting in the parking lot.
 
VIN 1402, black interior, 5 speed, wide stripe,  with some kind of  
aftermarket stripe.  It was from New Jersey, flat tires all around, broken  dashboard 
and all kind of junk & trash in the interior. When I inquired  about the car, 
the staff at the store said that the car had been there for a  long time.
 
Apparently, the staff has been keeping an eye on the car as everyone comes  
to take their picture with it.
 
Sincerely,
Michael Pack
 
NOTE:   THIS DOCUMENT MAY CONTAIN CONFIDENTIAL AND NONPUBLIC INFORMATION.  IT 
IS  INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL(S) OR ENTITY(IES) NAMED 
ABOVE, AND  OTHERS SPECIFICALLY AUTHORIZED TO RECEIVE IT.  If you are not the 
intended  recipient of this document, you are notified that any review, 
dissemination,  distribution or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have 
 received this communication in error, please notify me immediately by return 
 email, delete the electronic message and destroy any printed copies.  Thank  
you for your cooperation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 03:45:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing thermostat and coolant.

It really doesn't make sense to work on a SYSTEM piecemeal. If you
have a leak anywhere in the system you will lose coolant. You should
replace ALL hoses and ALL seals. This includes the ones under the
intake manifold. You should also replace the belts and the idler
pulley bearings. If you have the origional pump it should also be
replaced. All of the venders sell a "Master Cooling System Kit" which
will have all the belts, hoses, seals, otterstandt switch, clamps, etc
that you will need. Test the radiator cap and replace if necessary.
When you are all done you need to buy or rent or borrow a "Coolant
system pressure tester". You bleed by pressurizing the system and
loosening the bleeder on the thermostat housing till all the air is
out and then loosening the small hose on the top, right of the
radiator till air is all out.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> My car overheated on Saturday, dumping a lot of coolant in my 
> driveway through the overflow.  I ordered a new thermostat, and have 
> two new left and right main hoses to replace the existing spongy 
>







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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 22:46:36 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: A/C High Pressure Hose

We have the connections off, it's snaking it through the little holes in the 
body and frame
that is the bugger....
- VB

>From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: A/C High Pressure Hose
>Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 04:48:57 -0000
>
>It's just held flat against the back of the compressor, along with the
>low side, by a bracket and common bolt. Don't forget to change the O
>rings.
>
>Your problem is going to be at the other end, where it connects to the
>condensor. That fitting will most likely be quite difficult to remove
>(is screwed together). Condensor plumbing is thin, so be careful
>wrenching on it. Don't forget to replace the O ring inside.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > The high pressure hose, (the smaller, lower hose coming off the
> > compressor) blew up and I need to replace it.
> > I got a new one from DMCH and now I need to put it on.
> > It seems to be a real bugger to get the old one off
> > and I don't see how the heck the new one goes back on.
> >
> > Has anyone done this before, and do you have any tips
> > as how to do it?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > - Videobob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 22:48:23 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Re: A/C High Pressure Hose

So what is the "trick" to getting the hoses out and in again?
- VB

>From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Re: A/C High Pressure Hose
>Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2005 04:56:50 -0000
>
>I am suprised DMCH did not tell you how to change the hose. I am sure
>if you ask nicely they will give you all the info on doing it that you
>or your shop will need. You do not have to lift or remove the body to
>do it but there is a trick! Be very careful and hold back on the
>fitting on the condensor core or you will tear it off and have to buy
>a new condensor too. The condensor is aluminum and can be damaged very
>easily.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Robert Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> > The high pressure hose, (the smaller, lower hose coming off the
> > compressor) blew up and I need to replace it.
> > I got a new one from DMCH and now I need to put it on.
> > It seems to be a real bugger to get the old one off
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>






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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 03:51:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: LH Steering Rack Boot

You can use a "pickle fork" (kind of looks like one) or a tool that
looks like a weird "C" clamp. The pickle fork may damage the boot but
it is univeral and cheap. The "Gorrilla" way is to heat the end up and
pound it apart but it is very smelly and messy with all that grease
and you WILL destroy the boot. Besides, it is not recomended to heat
suspension or steering parts.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Wayne Wagner" <aa9dy_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> According to the manual for changing out the LH Steering Rack Boot,
> I'm 
> supposed to pull out the steering rack.  Doesn't seem too bad of an 
> operation.  
> 
> The only thing I am wondering... Is there a specialized tool for 
> removing the tie rod from the steering knuckle?  And do I have to 
> remove the LH tie rod end to slip on the boot?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Regards,
> Wayne / #2447
> www.AA9DY.com







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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 04:11:48 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Air Conditioning

It is that time of the year again when we try the A/C and it doesn't
work! I got several off-list e-mails this week and in the interest of
the entire list I will repeat several things. A/C work requires
expensive, specialized tools. You MUST evacuate the system to a hard
vacuum to remove ALL air (non-condensible gases)and moisture. R-12 is
hard to come by and it is a crime to waste it (literaly). That said
there is still some things a DIYer can do. You can get the parts you
need. You can pressure-test the system by using compressed air
(assuming there is no pressure in the system so you are not wasting
any refrigerent). You can remove and replace parts in preparation for
the A/C shop assuming you can make prior arrangements. You can
electrically test the system and repair as necessary ahead of time.
You should insist that the shop checks the oil fill and even replaces
it. They should replace the service valve cores and any missing caps.
They should pressure-test, sweep charge, and then vacuum for at least
1/2 hour, an hour is better. Fill with a measured charge and
performance test, adjusting the low pressure switch if needed. If the
system has ben dead for a long time you "should" replace the dryer.
One of the more common parts to fail besides the service valve cores
to slowly leak is the discharge hose. It is the hose that runs from
the compressor to the condensor core in front of the radiator. On A/C
systems the rule is to do as little and to disturb as little of the
system as you can. If a joint is not leaking it is not considered good
practice to replace the seal "just because". The chances of damaging
the joint are too high. In general you have to be VERY CAREFUL with
the fittings. You wind up using large wrenches because the fittings
are big but you are working with aluminum so it can twist and break
very easily.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 00:15:48 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Restoring interior trim... What to use?

 
 
In a message dated 06/07/2005 12:09:59 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
doki_pen_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

I have  recently begun taking out my interior trim
> with the purpose of
>  > cleaning it and detailing it before reinstalling
> it.  I was  wondering
> > what my fellow DMC owners used to treat and
>  protect their various
> > pieces of vinyl (center console, dash,  kneepads,
> etc.)

I like products from Leatherique.com. I have used about 3 gallons on my  cars 
leather seats &  trim. In addition, it was great  on furniture, girlfriends 
clothing & accessories, and the vinyl  surfaces on door panels and dashboards.

 
My BMW's have a lot of wood trim and the oil does a great job on those as  
well.
 
Sincerely yours,
Mike Pack
NOTE:   THIS DOCUMENT MAY CONTAIN CONFIDENTIAL AND NONPUBLIC INFORMATION.  IT 
IS  INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL(S) OR ENTITY(IES) NAMED 
ABOVE, AND  OTHERS SPECIFICALLY AUTHORIZED TO RECEIVE IT.  If you are not the 
intended  recipient of this document, you are notified that any review, 
dissemination,  distribution or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have 
 received this communication in error, please notify me immediately by return 
 email, delete the electronic message and destroy any printed copies.  Thank  
you for your cooperation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 00:43:40 -0400
From: Aaron Crocco <acrocco_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Come one, come all to the SUMMER FUN RUN II

Hey all DML members!

I'm posting here to let everyone know that you should get ready for
the next Mid-Atlantic club event: The Summer Fun Run II.

Hot on the heels of our fantastic Spring Social, the Summer Fun Run II
will be a great time for all who attend while being stress-free and a
lot of fun.  The Summer Fun Run II includes an awesome caravan that
takes you through some beautiful areas of New York and then a
traditional BBQ which allows everyone to relax, get some sun and enjoy
our cars.

Save the date!!

When: Saturday, July 16, 2005
Where: Meet at the Palisades Mall, W. Nyack, NY.
Details: www.deloreanmidatlantic.com

I hope everyone can attend.  More details are to follow, but I hope
you can all attend.  Hope to see you there!

-Aaron Crocco
Vin 5591
NY Plate: OUTATYM





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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 00:47:03 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Value of 3500 mile 83 DMC automatic in Toledo Ohio VIN 16558

 
In a message dated 06/07/2005 12:14:50 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com writes:

Mike,

How long has it been stored?  How perfect is the  car?

Greg


about 16-17 years....and improperly. A nice car, good intention to store  the 
car, however stored improperly.  It would be an excellent driver or  with a 
ton of $$$ thrown at it a "possible" show car...I doubt it IMHO.
 
It needs a serious going over & rejuvination along with a really  intensive 
detail job. The seats need to be treated and oiled. Headliner &  door seals are 
in bad shape. 
 
[moderator snip]





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 23:18:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Darryl Givens <mydmc5898_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: ticking- compresion


Well i just got it back from the oil change..... and I was told I may have a compresion problem. Along with the ticking I also seemed to have to add a "missing" idle to the list of problems. Now i have very little knowlage about automotives.... so worst case senerio... what does this possibly mean? Pretty much everyone I have talked to has just shook their head. I have a basic understanding of what it is. but I mean what part or parts am i looking at? My mechanic told me about a cylinder possibly responible so i'm going to take it back up this week to have him do a computer check on the car. and he advised me to drive the car as minimal as possbly. Am I in a for a long road ahead of more money spending? 

 

Thanks,

Darryl

VIN 5898


		
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 Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing & more. Check it out!

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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 05:24:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Classic Motorsports article

A great DeLorean article in the July 2005 (Issue #115) of Classic Motorsports
magazine by Don Weberg. "Buyer's Guide: The DeLorean DMC-12" - it spans 10 pages
& actually favorable to the D! Only thing the reader has to get past is Edward
Bernstein's jabs at us "web people".

The Magazines site: http://www.classicmotorsports.net/
The "sneek peek" section is a month behind, even when updated I don't think the
full article will be there.

Shannon Y
16506  

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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 01:20:50 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: DeLorean Owners Association offer

Thanks for the tip.
I never thought I would join the DOA simply because it seems everyone is 
against it
for some reason, but I have seen some of the old "Delorean World" magazines 
and I
think they are great and I have toyed with the idea of buying the complete 
set before
but it was more than I was ready to spend, but at $225 (with shipping) 
that's only
around $3.00 per issue, and I think that is a bargain!
So it looks like I just became a 3-year member of the DOA!

Great, now I have a whole new group of DeLorean owners who can reject me
and ridicule me! I should fit in just fine.
- Videobob

>From: "deloreanpat" <deloreanpat_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] DeLorean Owners Association offer
>Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 00:32:58 -0000
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the Association is giving
>away sets of DW with a three year membership while their supplies
>last.  I just got a postcard in the mail highlighting the offer.
>Those magazines have pretty much every technical advice you could
>want to know so I think it's a great deal for any one.
>
>So forgive my shameless plug for my club, but I think it's a benefit
>to anyone in the DeLorean community:
>http://www.delorean-owners.org/doa/join.html
>
[moderator snip]




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 08:34:40 -0500
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>
Subject: Re: LH Steering Rack Boot

Hi Wayne,

You don't really have to pull the whole rack out to replace that boot  
- just fill the new boot with a few ounces of 90W gear oil and then  
slide it on and clamp it down.

But you do need to remove that tie rod end to get the boot on.  If  
your old tie rod end is looking bad, this is an excellent time to  
replace it - they're cheap and the new offerings have much better  
boots than the old ones.  Yes, there are a couple of tools used to  
remove the old tie rod end and the one that worked best for me was  
the "pickle fork" tool.  Here's a picture of the "pickle fork" and  
another remover, which turned out to be too big for the DeLorean:

http://tinyurl.com/eyrsu

Service bulletin ST-09-7/81 has some revised torque specs for that  
job.  And remember to have the alignment checked when you're done.

Travis Graham
#06344


On Jun 7, 2005, at 8:10 AM, dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com wrote:

> According to the manual for changing out the LH Steering Rack Boot,
> I'm
> supposed to pull out the steering rack.  Doesn't seem too bad of an
> operation.
>
> The only thing I am wondering... Is there a specialized tool for
> removing the tie rod from the steering knuckle?  And do I have to
> remove the LH tie rod end to slip on the boot?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 06:15:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Owners Association offer

Even if the political BS was removed from the DOA,
What benifits does the club offer to people outside of
sothern california?

For now, I will keep an open mind... and wait to see
how things change.


--- deloreanpat <deloreanpat_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
<SNIP>
> 
> There seems to be some restructuring going on with
> the DOA.  I had 
> my car in with Ed recently and he says he resigned
> from the DOA 
> board to focus on his business.  There's some new
> young blood too.  
> It may be a great time to get involved.



		
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 14:01:24 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing thermostat and coolant.

Sounds like either the thermostat, air in the system or the otterstadt. 
If you are unsure you can replace both. They are easy to do. Thermostat 
is just taking some bolts aout and replacing it. The otterstadt is 
under left rear cooling pipe. Make sure th wires are hook up to it and 
are clean. You can test jumping with a paper clip in each plug at the 
otterstadt. If you have air you need to bleed system or install the 
self bleeder. I also get the last but of air out of my system by barely 
cracking the small bleed hose at the radiator. If you hear a sucking 
sound you had lots of trapped air in your radiator..

Mike C
2109






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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 09:48:07 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: RE: New collector insurance

The question of insurance comes up from time to time and I always try to
check out all of the options.

I come from a State Farm family, and always used their insurance (in North
Carolina) - once I got the DeLorean, I had to switch to Allstate since
StateFarm in NC would not cover the D.

I now have 4 cars and a house insured with Allstate; and have been happy
with their service and coverage (both in North Carolina and in Colorado).

Just for kicks I entered my current vehicle coverage in a spreadsheet and
compared it to the quote I got from Hagerty. For about $50.00 less (would me
about $50.00 more with out multi-car discounts) I get what I feel is much
better coverage. ($100,000 VS $30,000 for injury - $50,000 VS $25,000 for
property, etc.)

The main difference is that the Hagerty insurance is for stated value
insurance ($25,000), while the Allstate is for "Actual Cash value" - need to
revisit my agent to make sure that they have the same idea of the cash value
as I do.

For anyone interested, I uploaded the comparison to the files section. It is
in a folder called "Babb" and uses all of my actual info.  

I tried AON as well as ANPAC as well, but neither of them offer coverage in
my area.

Michael
VIN 3472

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
DMCVIN6683
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 10:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] New collector insurance

http://www.anpac.com/AmericanNat/auto/index.htm

I was at the Hotrod Power Tour and heard of this new insurance called 
CHROME for our cars. They have a 10,000 mile no restriction driving 
ability.

I know http://www.Hagerty.com has driving restrictions and so does 
http://www.aoncollectorcar.com/

Does anybody have any comments about this new company i found?

Does it sound good or bad?

Mark V









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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 09:52:46 -0400
From: "Jason Perkins" <jperkins_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Tom's Mirrors

I seemed to have missed the post that had a link to what these mirrors
looked like.  Can someone upload a few pics or send a link (maybe
again)?



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Marty Galbreath
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 9:20 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Tom's Mirrors

I received my convex mirrors from Tom Niemczewski this past Friday
and 
put them on Saturday. Took only about ten minutes as I had applied
the 
previous ones using Velcro in anticipation of getting these. 

Wow! What a difference! Confidence level when driving the car rose 
significantly now that I can see what's behind me.  These are great 
mirrors and very well made. 

They came with the heater circuit but I didn't hook that up because I 
have used up all the extra wires in the doors hooking up Toby's Wings-
a-loft. We really don't need heated mirrors so much In Alabama anyway.

Marty Galbreath
#3765







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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 10:56:42 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: ANPAC collector insurance customer

ANPAC is what I have on all my cars and house including the chrome policy on 
the DeLorean, Metropolitan, and Model A.

Had a hail claim on the DeLorean several years back and they paid $9998 
without hesitation along with $6550 on an Acura. They sent out an adjuster 
and wrote a check!
I like their no restrictions verbage as I never have to get in the grey 
areas of the other collector car policies. Hagerty does offer better 
coverage at a lower price if you can live within the spirit of the 
constraints.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663




>From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] New collector insurance
>Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 21:37:40 -0500
>
>http://www.anpac.com/AmericanNat/auto/index.htm
>
>I was at the Hotrod Power Tour and heard of this new insurance called
>CHROME for our cars. They have a 10,000 mile no restriction driving
>ability.
>
>I know http://www.Hagerty.com has driving restrictions and so does
>http://www.aoncollectorcar.com/
>
>Does anybody have any comments about this new company i found?
>
>Does it sound good or bad?
>
>Mark V
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>







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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 14:06:13 -0000
From: "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Restoring interior trim... What to use?

Interesting... I think I will give that a try. Thanks Dave!

Also, thanks to everyone else who responded!
-Brandon
#4205
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I have found that J-B Weld is the best for repairing the broken
posts on the
> kneepads. I've tried two part epoxy and even hot melt glue but
neither had
> the structural integrity of the J-B Weld. If the hole is just cracked I
> remove the pin, put some JB into the hole and then screw the pin
back in. If
> a section of the hole is broken off I place the pin in the good
section and
> then flow the JB over the pin . The JB is fluid before it sets so
you need
> to position the part after applying the JB so it doesn't run
> 
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Brandon" <morpheus34711_at_dml_y...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 11:44 AM
> Subject: [DML] Restoring interior trim... What to use?
> 
> 
> > Hello group,
> >
> >  upon removal of my kneepads I discovered that a few
> > of the posts have split and are falling apart. Is there a way to fix
> > these without having to buy all new ones?






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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 09:22:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jamie Hamlin <jamiepierce2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Owners Association offer

Is this all the 72 back issues?

deloreanpat <deloreanpat_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:Hi everyone,

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the Association is giving 
away sets of DW with a three year membership while their supplies 
last. I just got a postcard in the mail highlighting the offer. 
Those magazines have pretty much every technical advice you could 
want to know so I think it's a great deal for any one.

So forgive my shameless plug for my club, but I think it's a benefit 
to anyone in the DeLorean community:
http://www.delorean-owners.org/doa/join.html

I've been reading for a few years...I never posted because I'm a 
member of the DOA and a customer of D1. For whatever reason, these 
seem to be great taboos on this list, so I prefer not to be 
particularly public. I don't care much for the politics.

There seems to be some restructuring going on with the DOA. I had 
my car in with Ed recently and he says he resigned from the DOA 
board to focus on his business. There's some new young blood too. 
It may be a great time to get involved.









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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 16:43:17 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: VIN 5003

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
Please respond off list.

Mike G  Moderator of the week
*****

Hey guys, I've wanted to contact the previous owner of 5003 for a few
years now, but lost his Email address. PO was Lucas Vaden of North
Carolina and from what I understand the car sat a long time at a gas
station down there; does anyone know his Email addy? If you have it,
it's probably a better idea to respond off list. Thanks guys!
-----Dani B. #5003






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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 11:56:16 -0500
From: DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683_at_dml_wi.rr.com>
Subject: Shifter Problem

I was coming to a turn and stopped and threw the car in 1st gear and 
then noticed the shifter felt funny. I drove a few feet pushed in the 
clutch and the shifter felt like it wasn't attached to the linkage. I 
let go of the clutch and let the car roll in 1st gear and tried to pull 
it out of first gear with out pushing in the clutch and i couldnt. The 
shifter moved everywhere it should like 2nd 3rd 4th and 5th but the 
tranny stayed in 1st gear and the shifter felt sloppy.

I was a block away from home so i drove home. I got to my driveway and 
decided to see if reverse worked and it did so i backed into the 
driveway, stopped and noticed my shifter felt normal again and all of 
my gears were back when i shifted it.

Does anybody know what could of happened?

Mark V






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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 10:38:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: A/C Problems (necessarily long)

All,
 
A/C experts, please read!  I've got a really strange issue with my air conditioner that I'd like to properly diagnose before I go replacing more parts.  This is a long post, but I wanted to include all the relevant info:
 
Since I bought 1063, the A/C has always "worked", but the air is never as cool as it should be.  I've also noticed excessive sweating of the evaporator core, even after cleaning the drain out with compressed air.  The most peculiar thing: my compressor never cycles off.  As soon as I hit the mode switch to any A/C position, both my cooling fans and my compressor turn on, and *never* turn off unless I turn the mode switch to vent or above.  This includes, idling, on the highway, cool days, hot days, etc.
 
I've got records for the car back to 1983.  The work was all done by Steger and includes a new NOS compressor (about 5 years ago) with all new A/C hoses.  As far as I can tell, the accumulator bottle, evaporator, and condenser are all stock, but appear in excellent condition.
 
I stopped using the A/C because I didn't want to overwork the compressor or those circuits, but here's what I've tried to do to fix it in chronological order:
 
1.  I sniffed another bottle of R-12 in the system, after someone suggested I might be low on freon.  No change.
 
2.  I put gages on it and found that my low side pressure was dipping into the low teens, while my high side was blowing up way over 300 when the car was revved.  The low pressure switch never kicked off the compressor, so I pulled the plug off the low pressure switch and everything stops as it should.  So I replaced the low pressure switch.  No change, everything on.  Then I tried adjusting the switch to the extremes (both directions) with no change.  I even switched it out with a known good switch with no change.  Rob Grady suggested that I may have a restriction in the system and suggested I replace the accumulator bottle and orifice tube.  So....
 
3.  I bought a new bottle and orifice tube.  I evacuated the system replaced the bottle and orifice tube without damaging any fittings (thank God this car was from California...).  The old orifice tube had a few particles of black gunk on it, but was actually very clean overall.  Then I vacuumed it all down for a long time.  The system held vacuum for a long time (about -29) so there don't appear to be any leaks.  Then as soon as I started the car, with a completely empty and vacuumed down system, the compressor was already cycled on, non stop!  We went ahead and recharged with 2.2 lbs of fresh R-12, with no change in operation whatsoever.  The compressor is still constantly on and the temperature out of my vents was only about 59 or 60 degrees.  Never any colder.
 
4.  Then we suspected an electrical problem.  I got out the wiring diagram and found that my wiring appears to be all stock, with no modifications.  Pulling fuse 10 shuts it all off as it should (we tried this because we thought we might be getting some kind of feedback from the fuse 5 circuit).  We also tried replacing the diode in the electrical compartment (the one between pink and black/orange, I think?) shown on the wiring diagram with no change.  However, this car has never been fitted with a high pressure switch, but it is my understanding that a missing high pressure switch shouldn't cause this weird problem.
 
The car makes all the right sounds (except cycling):  I hear the "woosh" of freon through the evaporator core, the bottle sweats, the evaporator core is cold and the drain drains, the compressor is quiet and the clutch for it engages smoothly.  My blower motor is a quiet NOS that blows a high volume of air, and I have no melting of any fuses in the electrical compartment.  Also, the mode switch appears to be in excellent condition, and I don't believe there are any leaks in vacuum; all air is directed quickly to the right spots,  I've also verified a tight fit of the foam on the back of the evaporator core.  The condenser is clean and still has almost all of it's paint.  My cooling fans work great and flow in the proper direction.  I've also verified that my heater core valve is closed.
 
Ok, so do you have any suggestions for me?  I'm ready to do or buy anything at this point to get the thing to work right.  Does this sound like there is still a restriction some where?  Could I have some internal compressor damage?  Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.  Right now I'm leaning toward an evaporator replacement, but I hear it's an awful job.  Maybe I can hire Dave Strangand to put my car back together after replacing the evap.  :-)
 
Thanks a lot!
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063 in Southern IL



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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