From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2671
Date: Friday, June 10, 2005 8:44 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Seat Options
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>

2. Re: Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

3. Engine crank...SHE START!!! HAHAHAHAHAH
From: DMC Erik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. RE: Front License Plate Holes Question
From: mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net

5. Re: Another A/C post...
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

6. RE: Upper door seals
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. Engine cranks..no start.
From: DMC Erik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. RE: DMC factory groundbreaking story
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. RE: Re: Engine Electrical Connections
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. Feedback through CB when engine is running?
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

11. Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Hello All CORRECTION
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Upper door seals
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Re: Seat Options
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Headlights, cooling fan, and blower motoer
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>

16. Shade Tree Mechanic (MT Bleeder)
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

17. Show in Merrimack, NH
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. RE: Engine Electrical Connections
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>

19. Re: Re: DeLorean in Family Guy
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Re: DeLorean in Family Guy
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

21. Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Items for sale
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

23. Re: Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Re: DeLorean in Family Guy
From: Colin McDonell <cdmcali_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. RE: Feedback through CB when engine is running?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2005 16:12:55 -0500
From: Warren Wallingford <warren_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Re: Seat Options

If you need seats or covers, ours are hard to beat .  $599 per set of 
two seats, either color, for new leather covers whose grain matches the 
original.  The vinyl sections have also been made with texture that 
matches the original.  If your taste is stranger than that, we've got 
all-leather, two-tone seat covers that have perforated midsections and 
original-texture material for $799 a set.
Get 'em while they're hot.

Warren Wallingford
DeLorean Motor Company (Texas)
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396 USA

http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537
281/441-2813 Fax


doki_pen wrote:
> Hi guys, the seats in my car are badly worn and i'm
> wondering what my options are in "redoing" them? 
> Recovering? Complete replacements?  What do you think
> gives the best results as far as looks and comfort go?
>  Thanks!
> 
> Jon
> #3215
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 16:38:21 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?

Why should one need any special water? I've always just used the
garden hose. It's never been an issue.

-Ryan

On 6/9/05, Harold McElraft <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> All the majors have a 50/50 already to go with the deionionized water.
> I use the Texaco brand.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_f...> wrote:
> > Where do I find demineralized (same as distilled?) water for cooling
> > system?  Is this available in a supermarket or autoparts store, ro
> do
> > I need to demineralize myself?
> >
> > Or are there coolants already premixed 50/50?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Paul
> > Vin 10944
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 18:05:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: DMC Erik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine crank...SHE START!!! HAHAHAHAHAH

No sooner did i hit the "send" button on my last email that i realized....you know what, i bet i didn't get enough gas to the engine yet.  I put gas in...but didn't make sure it went all the way back....so i filled her up with 5 gallons.  A couple of turns and she started right up and idles just fine!  I notice a small gas leak coming from the accumulator area...i'm going back into the garage right now to fix that.
 
 
Erik
04512
 


DMC Erik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi, i'm finishing up the restoration on my car.  Heres a bit of background on the story:

Car ran perfect before restoration, but the frame was bad.
new frame on there now and I'm finishing up connecting everything.
my dad is an electricion and went over the entire car as we were connecting everything (no ground issues..i'm sure of it)
I've connected everything but the back fascia and fiberglass board that goes behind it.

Ok, so the car cranks over just fine.  I can hear the idle speed motor buzzing and the fuel pump humming.  I hear the RPM relay clicking.  It cranks but doesn't fire.

Any ideas?

Erik



            
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2005 21:11:50 -0400
From: mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net
Subject: RE: Front License Plate Holes Question

Not a stupid question at all.  I used 1/4 inch drip irrigation plugs it looks factory.  I have a great D that might intrest you.  24,000 orig miles. not like most where the speedo cable broke and miles were not recorded.  It is painted (ya I know) I bought the car from the orignial owner who had it painted before it left the show room.  My son is a custom car painter who redid the car in a chrome illusions BlastBerry.  Goes from purple to soft gold, very cool.

email me if you want some pics.  Interior (black) is flawless as well as the rest of the car

Jim Sawyer 4149  
"John Spangler" <johnspangler_at_dml_netzero.net> wrote:

>This may be a stupid/obvious question to some buuuut..
>
>I'm still looking for a car to dedicate my life to.  I live in Arizona
>where a front license plate is thankfully not required.  I hate the
>way they look and I don't want my DeLorean to have it (My daily driver
>originally came from Colorado and has two stupid-looking screws
>sticking out the front of it right now.)
>
>Unfortunately this somewhat limits my options of where to obtain a car
>(unless I want to cough up for a new fascia).  Are the holes from the
>license plate bracket repairable without looking funny?  I'm not sure
>if I could really be satisified if they were just
>filled/sanded/painted.  Is it reasonable to think that a service shop
>or new owner located in a city that requires the front plates be
>willing to swap one out with an original fascia with no holes?  It may
>seem like a pretty petty thing to some of you (in perspective of say,
>rust or bad wiring fixes) but it's as important to me as the interior
>color and hood design.  Waiting this long for a car has made me very
>picky.
>
>-Steelskin
>VIN# 0000
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>

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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 01:37:04 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Another A/C post...

Wow, something good? That's a change! (lol) usually it's something 
horribly wrong. Thank you very much for your post and information. ---
--Dani B. #5003

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> That is a good sign - it is the pressure equalizing at the orifice 
> tube. Nothing to worry about. The low pressure hose, especially at 
> the fitting, will typically sweat, like you observed, on humid days.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354






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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 21:28:07 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Upper door seals

You should be able to pick them up anywhere. Some automotive stores carries
a large selection. The wholesaler I buy from has about a 100 different
configurations.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of stefan diklich
Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 1:03 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Upper door seals


Do you have to order rivits from a parts dealer or can u pick them up
anywhere?


John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
Dennis, Drill out and use screws or Pop Rivets. You can do it with the door
on.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of my88mph
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 6:43 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Upper door seals



If anyone has changed the upper door seals, is there an easier way
than drilling the rivets out with a 1/8 drill bit? Also what is the
easiest way to get the new seals into position on the door to install
the rivets or does the door need to come off.
Dennis







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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 17:55:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: DMC Erik <dmcerik_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine cranks..no start.

Hi, i'm finishing up the restoration on my car.  Heres a bit of background on the story:
 
Car ran perfect before restoration, but the frame was bad.
new frame on there now and I'm finishing up connecting everything.
my dad is an electricion and went over the entire car as we were connecting everything (no ground issues..i'm sure of it)
I've connected everything but the back fascia and fiberglass board that goes behind it.
 
Ok, so the car cranks over just fine.  I can hear the idle speed motor buzzing and the fuel pump humming.  I hear the RPM relay clicking.  It cranks but doesn't fire.
 
Any ideas?
 
Erik
 
 

		
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 21:29:57 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: DMC factory groundbreaking story

Greg, What's going to happen to it.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Greg Linstad
Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 12:40 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DMC factory groundbreaking story


I received an interesting story from a man in Ireland who has a spade
(square blade, short handled shovel) that was used during the
Groundbreaking Ceremony for the original Dunmurray factory. His name is
Gary Scott and with his permission I am posting these details.

In his words:

   "This spade was used at the groundbreaking ceremony when the DeLorean
site was opened in 1978. My father was the Government official
responsible for leasing the factory to John Z and ended up with the
spade which we have used in our garden for the last 27 years. The
inscription is a bit worn (as you would imagine) but reads:

 [moderator snip]




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 21:36:32 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Engine Electrical Connections

I have the switch which grounds the LG wire ( #7 ) coming out of the Lambda
ECU.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Rick
Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 9:58 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Engine Electrical Connections


John, Do you have the components to add the full throttle function to
a B28 (1980 Volvo)that didn't come with it?  I have a manual
transmission and have the hot start impulse relay.  Does the full
throttle function send a ground to terminal 11 of the ECU?  Thanks






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Yahoo! Groups Links












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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 22:44:47 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Feedback through CB when engine is running?

Hey all,
     I just installed a CB radio tonight in the D, and it seems to work fine 
until I have the engine running, then I get all kinds of feedback, and when I 
rev it, I can hear it through the CB.   I tried switching the ground for the 
CB antenna from the bolt back near the left rear quarter panel, to the parking 
brake ground, to the ground back in the electrical compartment behind the 
driver seat and I still have the same problem.   I have the ground for the CB 
radio itself to the parking brake ground bolt.   I am getting power from the fuse 
for the rear defrost and power mirrors, and I switched that to the battery 
directly and I still get the same problem when the engine is running.   Any ideas 
here?   Would something called a "ground loop isolator" be useful in this 
application?

-Patrick C. 
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 03:34:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?

There is de-ionized water, distilled water, demineralized water, hard
water, soft water, and on, and on. I learned that distilled water is
not good as is hard water. Distilled water will want to dissolve the
metal parts and hard water will settle out minerals, kind of like
opposite ends of a spectrum. Getting into the chemistry of water is a
subject all by itself. The short answer is you should go with soft
water but not soft water that was made by adding sodium ions as in a
water softener. If the water in your local area is known to be hard
the "best" alternative is to use bottled drinking water or pre-mixed
anti-freeze. Here in the East the water is generally soft but in some
areas with well water the water can be hard. In the south and
southwest the water can get very hard. The guy at the local radiator
shop can show you what the insides of the radiators look like from the
local water and tell you what you should use.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "M. P. Olans" <mpolans_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> David,
>      What do you say NOT to use distilled water?
> 
> Matt
> VIN 16816
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 22:34:28 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Hello All CORRECTION

 
 



Hello Guys;
 
My message should read FREE help/workspace/coffee/beer etc, not  fee...typing 
to fast after two martini's...
 
Sincerely Yours,
Michael Pack
Maryland
 
 
 
In a message dated 06/09/2005 4:40:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

And I am  in Rockville. A noob to the group, but one with manuals and 
willing to  help if I can.

John
#7009

[moderator snip]




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 03:45:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Upper door seals

They are not special Delorean rivets. Any rivet of the correct size
and length will do. Just be careful drilling out the old ones. You can
cut a piece of tubing to slip over the drill so when you do drill
through the rivet you do not go in too far and damage the S/S skin. I
would also cover the torsion bar so you don't accidently scratch it.
Another way is to use a small chisel and cut the head off the rivet.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Do you have to order rivits from a parts dealer or can u pick them
up anywhere?
> 
> 
> 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 03:40:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Seat Options

If they aren't ripped up you can try redying them. I used Leatherique
and had excellant results. Once you get over using sandpaper on the
leather it is easy. Only the "seating surfaces" are leather. The sides
and back are vinyl. The other leather parts are the shifter boot (if a
5-speed) and the steering wheel cover and the door pull straps.
Everything else is vinyl or carpet.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doki_pen <doki_pen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hi guys, the seats in my car are badly worn and i'm
> wondering what my options are in "redoing" them? 
> Recovering? Complete replacements?  What do you think
> gives the best results as far as looks and comfort go?
>  Thanks!
> 
> Jon
> #3215







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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 21:48:05 -0700
From: "Alan Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Headlights, cooling fan, and blower motoer

Hi,
I'm new to the list, but with an engineering degree and 28 years of electronic engineering,  The problem being described is not poor grounds or bad connections.  Any of these things would mean less than normal current flow (due to increased resistance)  You should be looking for a short to ground or a "leak path"  For example, disconnect the headlights and see of current is still flowing to them...bad insulation or worn insulation?

Al

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 00:21:17 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Shade Tree Mechanic (MT Bleeder)

Hey all you helpful guys to the Shade Tree Mech..  I have another layman 
question for yall.  What's the easiest way to bleed the hydraulic cluctch 
system?  I found the fluid connection located wayyyyyy up inside the car, on 
top of the trans. case, under the distributor cap.  Can only get to it with 
the finger tips of one hand.  What size is the nut.  Is this the correct 
place to bleed the clutch?

Thanks yall.

Lingo  #2034


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 8:37 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Shade Tree Mechanic


> Many tools are "Case Hardened". This means they were put through a
> hardening process that makes the surface of the tool very hard and
> underneath is softer. By grinding the surface off to change it's size
> you remove the case hardening. Better to buy the right tool in the
> first place. Snap-On makes an adapter that fits, I don't have the P#
> right now. You CAN use a piece of square stock bent into an "L" and
> put a piece of pipe on the end to make it longer  if you have to. Some
> plugs can be VERY stubborn but a long wrench and a hard, fast rap on
> the wrench gets them loose. It is also bed practice to use a torque
> wrench as a breaker bar. Good tools are an investment, budget for some
> on every job if you need to but it is always better (and safer) to use
> the correct tools.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
[moderator snip]




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 05:34:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Show in Merrimack, NH



http://www.northeastexotic.com/

Anyone going to this show?  I was considering it, but
don't want to be the only DeLorean!  


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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 10:11:45 -0400
From: "Todd Nelson" <tan5732_at_dml_rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Engine Electrical Connections

Thanks guys, I have a 5-Speed, so I guess I don't need the other connector.
 
Todd
1561

________________________________

From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com on behalf of KPoling_at_dml_Bellsouth.net
Sent: Thu 6/9/2005 11:33 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Engine Electrical Connections



Dave's explanation is correct.   On the manual the other connector is not used and just sits there.  That was one of the first questions I asked after checking into my engine compartment the first time!
KP
4547
[moderator snip]




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 07:58:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean in Family Guy

The delorean has an appearance at the begining of "one
if by land 2 if by sea" parked in front of the clam
during an 80's flashback

jordan


--- Alistair McCann <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk> wrote:

> The episode with the BTTF spoof is "If im dying im
> lying", which I believe 
> is the first episode...  The Delorean appears in an
> episode where peter 
> becomes a Knight at some old time fair.
> 
> Alistair. 
> 
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 09:43:11 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean in Family Guy

Neither was the source of this sighting.  Now I'm gonna have to go
through the DVDs for these too!  My screen capture is from the episode
where a hurricane destroys the town and British people take over the
local bar, with a subplot of Stewie teaching the neighbor girl to
speak properly a la My Fair Lady.

--Greg

On 6/9/05, Alistair McCann <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk> wrote:
> The episode with the BTTF spoof is "If im dying im lying", which I believe
> is the first episode...  The Delorean appears in an episode where peter
> becomes a Knight at some old time fair.

On 6/9/05, lakelanier20 <derek4567_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> Is that the episode with the "Black to the Future" joke/spoof?
> 
> "You outatime baby!"





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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 08:02:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?

David,
Before purchasing my car I started to take notes on how to maintain it. Back in
2001 you advised someone to use soft or distilled water, now you mentioned not to
use distilled water (yesterday's and 2001's post below). Why the change? I'm not
trying to find contradiction I'm just confused & want to do what is right for my
car.

Shannon Y
16506

-------------------

Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2005 15:59:19 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?

If the water in your area is very hard there are a couple of things you can do.
You can buy bottled water. 
It would probably be cheapest to get a 5 gallon bottle that they use on water
coolers. You can buy a thing in the 
supermarket that is used to demineralize the water that is put into steam irons.
Do not use distilled water. Some 
stores do sell premixed but you wind up paying a lot for water that way.

David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

-------------------

Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 17:00:55 -0000
   From: jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net
Subject: Re: Dry overflow bottle

All you need is a mixture of 50/50 anti-freeze and water. The water should be
"soft" or if not then distilled. The anti-freeze should be a national brand and
say safe for aluminum. 
>>snip<<
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


		
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 15:30:34 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Items for sale

Hi, I picked up a couple of things this morning from an auto salvage 
place that was getting ready to get rid of some delorean stuff.  I 
don't really need the items so I'm selling them to pay for my car 
restoration.

(2) rear passenger quarter panels - Great condition no dents - $475
(1) T-Panel - had impression near drivers side. Very fixable - $150
(1) front drivers fender - has minor impression near front -$700
(1) '82 style muffler-Great Condition (has the tips) - $250
(2) '81 style muffler - Good Condition - $150
(2) Rear Louver - no cracks-some minor white scrapes - $220 
(1) Lower engine cover - good condition - $120

If anyone is interested please contact me off the list

Erik







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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 06:40:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Dillman <rhdillman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?

David will you tell us why distilled water should not be used? Thanks, Rod 10921

David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:If the water in your area is very hard there are a couple of things
you can do. You can buy bottled water. It would probably be cheapest
to get a 5 gallon bottle that they use on water coolers. You can buy a
thing in the supermarket that is used to demineralize the water that
is put into steam irons. Do not use distilled water. Some stores do
sell premixed but you wind up paying a lot for water that way.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "sweetp01569" 
wrote:
> Where do I find demineralized (same as distilled?) water for cooling 
> system? Is this available in a supermarket or autoparts store, ro do 
> I need to demineralize myself? 
> 
> Or are there coolants already premixed 50/50? 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> Vin 10944






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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 13:27:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Colin McDonell <cdmcali_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean in Family Guy

There is also a Delorean at the beginning of the episode about the british invading the drunken clam. They do a time lapse of the guys sitting at the drunkin clam and during the 80's segment there is a delorean parked out front.
Colin
4626

Alistair McCann <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk> wrote:
The episode with the BTTF spoof is "If im dying im lying", which I believe 
is the first episode... The Delorean appears in an episode where peter 
becomes a Knight at some old time fair.

Alistair. 






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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 17:29:07 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Feedback through CB when engine is running?

Patrick, That may be a problem because of the low frequency of the CB and
the Low frequency of the ignition system. The best place you could put the
antenna would be in the top middle of the car, but you may not get rid of
the ignition noise because of the open wiring of our ignition system.
John Hervey, ( 10 Fer )
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2005 8:45 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Feedback through CB when engine is running?


Hey all,
     I just installed a CB radio tonight in the D, and it seems to work fine
until I have the engine running, then I get all kinds of feedback, and when
I
rev it, I can hear it through the CB.   I tried switching the ground for the
CB antenna from the bolt back near the left rear quarter panel, to the
parking
brake ground, to the ground back in the electrical compartment behind the
driver seat and I still have the same problem.   I have the ground for the
CB
radio itself to the parking brake ground bolt.   I am getting power from the
fuse
for the rear defrost and power mirrors, and I switched that to the battery
directly and I still get the same problem when the engine is running.   Any
ideas
here?   Would something called a "ground loop isolator" be useful in this
application?

-Patrick C.
1880


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