From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2673
Date: Saturday, June 11, 2005 8:35 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Extended convex mirrors
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Upper door seals
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: DMC factory groundbreaking story
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Almost fixed
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Feedback through CB when engine is running.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Feedback through CB when engine is running.
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Almost fixed
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>

9. Re: Re: Shade Tree Mechanic (MT Bleeder)
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>

10. Re: Seat Options
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

11. Re: Upper door seals
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

12. Re: Re: LEDs in Dome Lights--Do I need that white relay?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: Re: LEDs in Dome Lights--Do I need that white relay?
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

14. Color Coded RPM Relay & Jumper
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

15. CPR Testing
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>

16. Oil pressure sensor
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>

17. Re: Re: hot outside, no start discussion
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

18. DeLorean mirrors - NO PAYPAL
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

19. Re: Northern Michigan Classic Car Show--2500 cars--Interested?
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

20. From the lobby of the hotel Sofitel
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Re: Upper door seals
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

23. Re: Re: Upper door seals
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

24. Re: Re: LEDs in Dome Lights--Do I need that white relay?
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

25. RE: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 21:20:02 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Extended convex mirrors

Tom, This was what I was trying to tell you about shipping one set at a time
from over there to here. It would have been a lot cheaper and time saving to
ship to my place and I would reship to your customers over here. There
really isn't any tracking it's only a confirmation when it arrives.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

.

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Tom
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 4:32 PM
To: DML
Subject: [DML] Extended convex mirrors


Hello all

Here's another update on the production of the Extended convex heated
mirrors for the DeLorean.
I still have a few sets left. Actually more than a few. I'm really surprised
but a lot of people who were seriously interested in the mirrors decided not
to even reply to my emails! Before the mirrors were available I would get
lots of emails saying that they want a set. Once I emailed them that the
mirrors are here.... nothing, no reply to my email. I will try to contact
those who preordered a set and wouldn't reply to me now.
Anyway, I still have those mirrors available. I also have one set of the
UNHEATED mirrors left if anyone is interested.
Another thing, I had to change the way I ship mirrors. From now on I will be
using International Priority Registered Mail with Return Receipt. The change
came after one person did not receive the package and it seems to be lost.
This way I will have more control over what happens to the shipment.
Unfortunately that brings new price for shipping. Yet another reason for
higher price is the fact that almost all use PayPal which costs me more.
Here are the new prices when paying with PayPal:
$125 US and Canada
$122 Europe
Contact me directly for other countries.

I have to say that I am somewhat disappointed in some people from the DML. I
did not want to charge people up front for the mirrors and then make them
wait another two months for them to arrive. I thought that someone might not
be too excited about sending the money overseas for a product that doesn't
even exists. That is why I chose not to charge anything up front. And that
was actually a bad idea. I borrowed the money to get the mirrors made and
now I have lots of mirrors and a nice debt.
So, if anyone preordered mirrors before but didn't get them yet, please do
so now. Be fair, if you wanted a set, I made it for you and it's here
waiting for you.
If anyone is interested in a set, get it while they last.
Installation instructions in PDF format are available for download from
www.deloreana.com

Greetings from Poland

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 02:22:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Where do I find demineralized water for cooling system?

If I did say distilled water than I was in error. Distilled water
should ONLY be used in batteries.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> David,
> Before purchasing my car I started to take notes on how to maintain
it. Back in
> 2001 you advised someone to use soft or distilled water, now you
mentioned not to
> use distilled water (yesterday's and 2001's post below). Why the
change? I'm not
> trying to find contradiction I'm just confused & want to do what is
right for my
> car.
> 
> Shannon Y
> 16506
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 02:35:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Upper door seals

If you remove the Tee roof you can easily slide the rubber seals AND
the metal backing plate in and out with the door closed without having
to bend it up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> WOW this was a hard piece to take off, let alone drill the rivits. I
did it and managed to take the rivit heads off, then to take the seal
out, i had to bend and twist it out. How am i suspposed to put a new
one on with the door on. THe old piece looks like a "Z" once it came o






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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 22:39:01 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DMC factory groundbreaking story

 
 
In a message dated 06/10/2005 6:15:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
john_at_dml_specialtauto.com writes:

received  an interesting story from a man in Ireland who has a spade
(square blade,  short handled shovel) that was used during the
Groundbreaking Ceremony for  the original Dunmurray factory.


There is a picture of JZD and the NI govt officials at the ground  breaking 
ceremony with these shovels. JZD's was gold or Gold Plated.
 
NOTE:   THIS DOCUMENT MAY CONTAIN CONFIDENTIAL AND NONPUBLIC INFORMATION.  IT 
IS  INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL(S) OR ENTITY(IES) NAMED 
ABOVE, AND  OTHERS SPECIFICALLY AUTHORIZED TO RECEIVE IT.  If you are not the 
intended  recipient of this document, you are notified that any review, 
dissemination,  distribution or copying of this communication is prohibited.  If you have 
 received this communication in error, please notify me immediately by return 
 email, delete the electronic message and destroy any printed copies.  Thank  
you for your cooperation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 02:41:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Almost fixed

 I would doubt the support itself is leaking much. It is much more
likely that you need to replace the injector seals. You remove the
injector and slide off the old seal, slide the new one on and replace
the injector. When the seals get old they get hard and shrink and
don't seal well. You will see the new seals will fit tightly when you
replace the injector, the old ones don't fit tightly anymore. Some
seals sold by some venders fit loosely. You can wrap teflon tape on
the seal and it will fit better. In fact you can try this trick on the
old seals and they will work better (and it's cheaper).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey all just got my car back from having the ac charged and leak
tested for 
> the summer... also had the mechanic do a final vacumn leak check and
the 
> 






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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 02:32:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Feedback through CB when engine is running.

If you hear a whining or a high pitched whir that changes as the
engine speed changes then you have to add filters (capacitors) to the
alternator. If you hear cracks and pops then you have problems with
the ignition wires. You do need to bond (electrically connect) the
ground of the CB antennae to the frame. Not only will this reduce
interference it will give you a lot more range as the entire car cam
become the "Ground Plane". All of the S/S panels and the trim around
the windshield are supposed to be bonded by small wires. You may have
to repair some of them. This is not really "feedback" so much as
intererence created by the motor and picked up by the CB. Get an AM
radio and set it in between stations. You will hear the interference
and can use it like a direction finder to locate the source. The
closer you get the louder it will be. You may also have to add filters
on the power line to the CB radio to reduce the noise on the DC power
to the radio.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Alan  Roberts" <twodelo2_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Patrick, 
> Your feedback problem is in effect, having isolation between the
antenna ground and the CB ground.  This is complicated in that the
coax from the radio to the antenna is supposed to be for isolation,
keeping the signal going through the cable from being affected by the
signal being radiated from the antenna.  Without a good ground to the
car c








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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 23:13:33 EDT
From: PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Feedback through CB when engine is running.

Thanks for the advice, John and Al.   I will give Al's advice a shot.   I 
think I still might go through the battery directly though, I'd be afraid that 
going through the fan circuit breaker would give me fan noise in the CB.   I'll 
try both, and I will use the thicker gauge wire.   I'm not sure if there is a 
good ground around the fuse box area like you mentioned.   Any suggestions 
there?   And I will try grounding the antenna to the engine block and see how 
that turns out.   Anyone else have other tips to try?

-Patrick C.
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2005 19:53:14 -0700
From: Chris Almy <chris.almy_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Almost fixed

Dave,
I did this just the other month when replacing the fuel lines. It's not too 
bad except for the ones on the left side of the engine, You have to remove 
the idle speed motor to get to the one in the rear. Jordan put together a 
great How-To that covers this, but it appears his site is down at the moment.

All you really have to do is pop off the clips on the bracket, and the 
injector with seal will come right out. Pull the old seal off and install 
the new one. Once the injector is back, the clips pop right back on. The 
only difficulty is getting to those clips in the tight spots. A bent coat 
hanger might work, but usually isn't strong enough with the leverage you 
need to apply. Try going to the local auto parts store and get a cooling 
hose removal tool. It's basically a screwdriver that is pointed at the end. 
It also has a bend that allows you to get it under the clips. After 30 
minutes of cursing at the brackets, I bought this tool and finished 
removing the injectors in a matter of seconds!

Hope this helps,
Chris
VIN 4099

At 11:50 PM 6/10/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Hey all just got my car back from having the ac charged and leak tested for
>the summer... also had the mechanic do a final vacumn leak check and the
>last little bit of leaks are coming from some of the injector supports 
>that go into
>the head.. has any one ever replaced these and do they just pull out and tap
>the new ones in??? I have never heard of this or read anyone doing it.. but i
>know Houston has them for like three bucks apiece or some thing like that...
>Thanks to all who answer..Dave..vin..15275





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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 00:12:43 -0500
From: "Robert Lingo" <rlingo_at_dml_midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Shade Tree Mechanic (MT Bleeder)

Thanks Stephen,

Sounds like a piece of cake once you have all the right equipment.....

Lingo #2034


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 5:44 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Shade Tree Mechanic (MT Bleeder)


> Short Answer: 8mm
>
> To make my life easy I pulled the stock bleed screw out and tossed it.
> I replaced it with part # SB7100sss from www.speedbleed.com.
> It's a bleed screw with a check valve in it. Open it once, put a
> hose on it (they have a great bleeder bag combo on the website), pump
> the clutch until the new fluid comes out clean (make sure you keep
> the resevoir full-Castrol, GTLMA Dot 4 ), remove the bleed bag,
> tighten the bleed screw, put the protective rubber cap on it(comes
> with the new bleed screw). Repeat every two years (same for the brake
> system).
> Nice, neat, clean.
> The part # above is for the stainless steel version (why not?) or
> they do have plain steel, just drop the last two ss from the part #.
>
> Stephen
> Vin 3601
>
[moderator stuff]




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 05:14:06 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Seat Options

The seat foam in my car is a little bit on the hard side from age, but
when one sits on the seat, it still gives so you have a comfy feeling
and do sink in a little, and it also still forms to the contour. It's
no where near sitting on a hard steel park bench, but its not sitting
on a giant bean bag either. As far as reconditioning the covers-if the
seams are splitting and have holes, get DMCH's covers for 599, they
look great and are much more comfortable then the old covers that were
hard as rock. -----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doki_pen <doki_pen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> You know honestly comfort is a major concern.  I'm
> just concerned that the foam underneath may have
> become hard and stiff.  I don't have any other
> delorean seats to compare this to.  Do you think that
> is something I should worry about?  Or does the foam
> usually remain okay?
> 
> Maybe even someone can tell me how it feels when they
> sit in their seat, do they like sink in to it a little
> bit, or is it kind of firm and you feel like you're
> sitting ON TOP of the seat?
> 
> Jon
> 
[moderator snip]




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 10:57:27 -0000
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: Re: Upper door seals

Just a note on the rivets - make sure you use stainless steel rivets 
as aluminum ones *can* corrode.

Also, you are supposed to take the T-panel off in order to get the 
seals out + mounting bracket. It's much more easier to get everything 
back in too.

I hope you removed or at least covered your torsion bars so your 
drill didn't scratch them.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> WOW this was a hard piece to take off, let alone drill the rivits. 
I did it and managed to take the rivit heads off, then to take the 
seal out, i had to bend and twist it out. How am i suspposed to put a 
new one on with the door on. THe old piece looks like a "Z" once it 
came off. I still have to take the rest of the rivits out too. 
> 
> David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:They are not special 
Delorean rivets. Any rivet of the correct size
> and length will do. Just be careful drilling out the old ones. You 
can
> cut a piece of tubing to slip over the drill so when you do drill
> through the rivet you do not go in too far and damage the S/S skin. 
I
> would also cover the torsion bar so you don't accidently scratch it.
> Another way is to use a small chisel and cut the head off the rivet.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
[moderator snip]




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 12:35:20 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: LEDs in Dome Lights--Do I need that white relay?

Sorry, Bill. I didn't read your post properly. The delay module is badly 
designed and causes this problem

Martin

Martin Gutkowski wrote:

>Are you sure about that, Bill? I think you'll find that the wiring makes 
>what you suggest impossible.
>
>Martin
>
>content22207 wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Actually it delays them after the door is OPENED. Keep it open long
>>enough and the courtesy lights will go out as soon as you close it,
>>rather than delaying as you'd expect. Yet another curious piece of DMC
>>engineering.
>>
>>Bill Robertson
>>#5939
>> 
>>    
>>





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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 12:33:50 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: LEDs in Dome Lights--Do I need that white relay?

It's more of a design flaw in the module than a "feature".

Martin

PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>What he means is when the relay is in place, if you open the door and shut it 
>really quickly, the lights stay on for 15 (give or take) seconds before they 
>shut off.   If you leave the door open for 15 seconds, then shut it, the 
>lights go out immediately.   Kind of a cool feature, many aren't aware its there, 
>and the rest don't use it.
>
>-Patrick C.
>1880
>  
>





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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 16:24:29 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Color Coded RPM Relay & Jumper

I posted a picture of the RPM relay socket and how I colored the 
connections that need to be jumped ( #30 & #87) to turn on the fuel 
pump.  There is also a picture of a simple jumper to do the job.

I colored my socket so as to make it easier to jump when the time 
comes.  It just takes a bit of the stress off when your stuck on the 
road and have to do some troubleshooting.  So my suggestion is to mark 
it now.

Dē & 6530







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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 18:55:21 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: CPR Testing

I am trying to test my CPR and have the CIS pressure tester.  With
the 
engine off at 80 degrees F, I get a system pressure reading of 72psi 
and a control pressure of only 30psi.  According to the graph in the 
manual it seems like the control pressure should be between 35 and 40.

Is this adjustable? The Bosch Fuel Injection book 
by Watson says it is caused by a defective CPR. Can it be fixed?

Could I be doing something wrong in my measurement technique?  It
seems 
rather simple. Engine off, gauge attached,  RPM relay jumpered.
(The technical information manual says to disconnect the intake 
manifold vacuum hoses but with the engine off I can't see how this 
could affect it...and it does not.)

What would a low control pressure when cold cause?  Excessivel rich 
mixture, correct?

Any thought and ideas are welcome.

Dē & 6530
Dave Delman






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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 19:14:34 -0000
From: "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Oil pressure sensor

My oil pressure sensor is leaking. I was able to fix it last year but 
now it's leaking again. I'm going to order a replacement on Monday
but 
it probably won't get to me until Thursday or Friday. In the meantime 
could I remove the sensor and plug the hole with a drain plug until
my 
new sensor arrives so I can still use my car without getting oil
spots 
on the driveway and the garage? Or will there be any problems? I 
checked my oil level and it's okay. Thanks for the help.
Mike
5623






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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 14:18:34 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: hot outside, no start discussion

I sure haven't done much on this problem lately...
However, I did have something sinister and possibly related crop up
that I had to take care of.
Apparently, when I did a little (uh, big?) bump off a curb/driveway I
knocked the inertia switch out for good. Strange, as they apparently
don't have a high failure rate. It looks ok, but jumping it got the
car to fire up.
The RPM relay also has a resistor on board that looks suspect (it's
bubbled out).
I'm going to replace the inertia switch and drive it for a while to
see if that has been the problem, and if I still have the heat-soak
problem then I will drop in the new RPM relay and go from there.
Anyone have any info to provide to this and the previous suggestions?
I also took the opportunity to clean all the fuses with an emery
cloth. I hadn't done that in a couple of years. Dirty suckers.

Thanks to all and thanks to Warren who talked to me on the phone this
week and during the OH today when I finally had a chance to work it.

-Kevin
#4687

On 5/26/05, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> Make sure the fuel pump is running when you are heat-soaked. Take the
> fuel cap off to relieve any vacuum or pressure. You may have to get a
> pressure gauge on the fuel system to see what is going on and measure
> the "rest pressure" to test the check valve, accumulater, and pressure
> regulator. Does it happen with a full tank of gas or when the level is
> low? There could be a flow problem in the tank, like a kinked,
> collaped pick-up hose or a dirty filter. This is a little unusual so
> you have to look at different things. You could also have a problem
> with one of the starting systems like the bypass relay for the
> ignition resistors or maybe the wiring in the cold start valve
> circuit. Vacuum leaks could also be part of the problem. Check out the
> vacuum valve on the water pipe and it's connections to the vapor
> cannister and the vacuum advance.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>[moderator snip]




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 23:59:54 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: DeLorean mirrors - NO PAYPAL

Hello

If you are interested in getting a set of my mirrors please read the 
following:

I'm sorry to inform you that due to circumstances beyond my control I CANNOT 
accept PayPal anymore. I will not receive the transfer.
Please let me know if you would like to use bank wire transfer or Western 
Union or any other way of your choice to send the money to me (DHL, UPS, 
etc.)
I will provide you with all the necessary information to transfer the money.
The price of the set will now be $120 US and Canada and $115 for Europe.It 
will need to be transferred directly to me to Poland.
I'm sorry about any inconvenience this will cause, but it's beyond my 
control.

Thank you

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...





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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 14:23:06 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Northern Michigan Classic Car Show--2500 cars--Interested?

Can't do that, but was wondering if anyone ever does the Ypsilanti
Orphan Car show?
-Kevin
(has been collecting the PBS series "Great Cars" on his PVR)




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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 05:55:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: From the lobby of the hotel Sofitel

Oh wow, it is free.  That is out of character for you
Bob!  :)

Ever hear of a Video Light??  Can't even see peoples
faces.

My ears were ringing last night, now I know why... I
am flattered that I am such a hot topic of
conversation.  With all that is going on there this
weekend, you guys can't find more interesting things
to discuss?  

Had I known James *wanted* me there..... 


--- Videobob Moseley <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

> Just a quick video of all of us here having a blast
<SNIP>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 





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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 14:13:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)

With all due respect Mike, My comment (or jab) was not
specifically at the loss (or rejection) of my messages
because we could debate hours on the merits of why any
particular message is accepted or rejected... (many of
those posts can be found on the DMC Forum, for those
who are interested)

My point (jab) was that in the many years I have been
a member of the DML, it has been customary for the
moderators to reject a message with some sort of short
explanation as to why.  In my case (lately) I do not
even get a rejection notice.  Private e-mails to the
moderators asking for explanation have also been
ignored.

(side note;  I remember a short time after we moved to
E-Groups James set my account such that my messages
were not even moderated..  Yes, I guess James even
liked me at one time!  )

Like me or not, I think all members of this community
deserve a little more respect than that.  I know being
a moderator may be a time consuming and thank-less
job, but no one is holding a gun to your head to do
it!

If your looking for a moderator, I volunteer.


--- Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu> wrote:

> Marc Levy proposed a theory that special rules apply
> to him:
> 
>  > I say lost, because I did
>  > not receive an official
>  > rejection notice. But it
>  > seems to be common for my
>  > posts to be rejected with
>  > no notification, or reason.
> 
> I'm not moderating this week, but I'll indulge Marc
> Levy's vanity and 
> respond to the thread he started with his own name
> in the subject line.
> 
> The moderators generally give little latitude in
> discussing exchanges 
> that have not been published on the DML. Examples
> are hearsay claims 
> that someone said something scandalous away from the
> DML, or claims that 
> legions of silent supporters share a belief they've
> never expressed on 
> the DML.
> 
> If we allow this behavior, the DML could break down
> into tabloid 
> bedlam.  Anyone with an axe to grind could make any
> sensationalist claim 
> yet sidestep responsibility by attributing it to
> events other DMLers did 
> not witness.  Marc Levy, perhaps you should feel
> this week's moderator 
> has been especially lenient with you because your
> thread about yourself 
> was approved at all.
> 
<SNIP>


		
__________________________________ 
Discover Yahoo! 
Use Yahoo! to plan a weekend, have fun online and more. Check it out! 
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 18:30:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Re: Upper door seals

I got it in and out without removing the T panel, mind you it was quite difficult and took all day, now its in and looks fine. I used SS rivits too. 

Stian Birkeland <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no> wrote:Just a note on the rivets - make sure you use stainless steel rivets 
as aluminum ones *can* corrode.

Also, you are supposed to take the T-panel off in order to get the 
seals out + mounting bracket. It's much more easier to get everything 
back in too.

I hope you removed or at least covered your torsion bars so your 
drill didn't scratch them.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759



[moderator snip]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 22:38:09 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Upper door seals

A tip for removing the seals out is to use WD-40 to lubricate the seals
where they pass behind the hinges.  This makes it much easier to slide
the seals in and out without bending them and to get them aligned with
the rivit holes.

--
Mike


-------------- Original message from stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>: -------------- 


> I got it in and out without removing the T panel, mind you it was quite 
> difficult and took all day, now its in and looks fine. I used SS rivits too. 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 17:42:08 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: LEDs in Dome Lights--Do I need that white relay?

He's using the Microsoft definition of" feature":
They aren't bugs-- just unintended features.

-Kevin
#4687
driving really different: Delorean in the real world, Solaris in the cyber

On 6/11/05, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:
> It's more of a design flaw in the module than a "feature".
> 
> Martin
> 
> PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> 
> >What he means is when the relay is in place, if you open the door and shut it
> >really quickly, the lights stay on for 15 (give or take) seconds before they
> >shut off.   If you leave the door open for 15 seconds, then shut it, the
> >lights go out immediately.   Kind of a cool feature, many aren't aware its there,
> >and the rest don't use it.
> >
> >-Patrick C.
> >1880
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
-Kevin




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 18:02:49 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)

I get messages rejected all the time.
Looking back, it was for the better.
I am all for freedom of speech, anti-censorship,
yadda, yadda, yadda......but sometimes it just gets old.
If you are not talking about politics in the first place you would
not have anything to moderate.
If discussions are kept on a technical nature then there
would be no problems.

I agree, if there is something major going on in the community
that needs to be addressed then it should, but constant
nit-picking and pushing agendas and opinions causes strife.
I think the moderators are simply trying to keep it squelched.

For most of the readers of the DML, they want to LEARN
and use the DML as a TOOL and not for entertainment purposes.
The opinions people have about the people who SELL parts
is not as important as the parts themselves.

Anyway, most of the moderators and attendees of the show
including myself are about to go to dinner.....
Later.
- Videobob

>From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
>Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 14:13:12 -0700 (PDT)
>
>With all due respect Mike, My comment (or jab) was not
>specifically at the loss (or rejection) of my messages
>because we could debate hours on the merits of why any
>particular message is accepted or rejected... (many of
>those posts can be found on the DMC Forum, for those
>who are interested)
>
>My point (jab) was that in the many years I have been
>a member of the DML, it has been customary for the
>moderators to reject a message with some sort of short
>explanation as to why.  In my case (lately) I do not
>even get a rejection notice.  Private e-mails to the
>moderators asking for explanation have also been
>ignored.
>
>(side note;  I remember a short time after we moved to
>E-Groups James set my account such that my messages
>were not even moderated..  Yes, I guess James even
>liked me at one time!  )
>
>Like me or not, I think all members of this community
>deserve a little more respect than that.  I know being
>a moderator may be a time consuming and thank-less
>job, but no one is holding a gun to your head to do
>it!
>
>If your looking for a moderator, I volunteer.
>
[moderator snip]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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