From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2675
Date: Monday, June 13, 2005 12:32 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: CPR Testing
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>

2. RE: CPR Testing
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. Re: Almost fixed
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. RE: Feedback through CB when engine is running.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: Extended convex mirrors
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

6. Re: hot outside, no start discussion
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Oil pressure sensor
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: CPR Testing
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. RE: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

10. Steering / front suspension bushings
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

11. Re: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Sputter when cold.
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Extended convex mirrors
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>

14. AW: Extended convex mirrors
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

15. Millennium Concours preliminary update
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

16. Dome Lights
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. Re: DMC factory groundbreaking story
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>

18. Re: "Features" Was: LEDs in Dome Lights-
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. Re: Moderating DML (Techincal Issues)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. cooling fan cycle
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>

21. Clutch woes
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

22. Re: Re: hot outside, no start discussion
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>

23. Re: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

24. Auto to Manual conversion
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. DeLorean Sighting at Johnson Space center
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 21:47:55 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: CPR Testing

That's an excellent book by Watson. Check this technical information page on
the DMC News site for repair of the CPR.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/controlpressreg.htm

Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 2:55 PM
Subject: [DML] CPR Testing


I am trying to test my CPR and have the CIS pressure tester.  With
the
engine off at 80 degrees F, I get a system pressure reading of 72psi
and a control pressure of only 30psi.  According to the graph in the
manual it seems like the control pressure should be between 35 and 40.

Is this adjustable? The Bosch Fuel Injection book
by Watson says it is caused by a defective CPR. Can it be fixed?







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 22:07:00 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: CPR Testing

Dave, It's a factory adjustment unless you have the equipment.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of drdhdmd
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 12:55 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] CPR Testing


I am trying to test my CPR and have the CIS pressure tester.  With
the
engine off at 80 degrees F, I get a system pressure reading of 72psi
and a control pressure of only 30psi.  According to the graph in the
manual it seems like the control pressure should be between 35 and 40.

Is this adjustable? The Bosch Fuel Injection book
by Watson says it is caused by a defective CPR. Can it be fixed?

Could I be doing something wrong in my measurement technique?  It
seems
rather simple. Engine off, gauge attached,  RPM relay jumpered.
(The technical information manual says to disconnect the intake
manifold vacuum hoses but with the engine off I can't see how this
could affect it...and it does not.)

What would a low control pressure when cold cause?  Excessivel rich
mixture, correct?

Any thought and ideas are welcome.

Dē & 6530
Dave Delman






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 02:43:23 -0000
From: "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Almost fixed

--- Hey Dave i do have new seals on alll injecors.. the mechanic said that 
when he did the leak test he did around the base of the support and he could 
see it suck some of the oil into the head there.. they shouldnt be that hard to 
do i hope... dont know... also another question I just had my ac charged ... 
should the compressor run all the time?? cause it doesnt seem to shut off and 
the fans are always on??? Thanks Dave..vin 15275




In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
>  I would doubt the support itself is leaking much. It is much more
> likely that you need to replace the injector seals. You remove the
> injector and slide off the old seal, slide the new one on and replace
> the injector. When the seals get old they get hard and shrink and
> don't seal well. You will see the new seals will fit tightly when you
> replace the injector, the old ones don't fit tightly anymore. Some
> seals sold by some venders fit loosely. You can wrap teflon tape on
> the seal and it will fit better. In fact you can try this trick on the
> old seals and they will work better (and it's cheaper).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> -- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> > Hey all just got my car back from having the ac charged and leak
> tested for 
> > the summer... also had the mechanic do a final vacumn leak check and
> the 
> >







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 22:10:03 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Feedback through CB when engine is running.

RF is Radio Frequency, It goes through the air.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of PRC1216_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 9:14 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Feedback through CB when engine is running.


Thanks for the advice, John and Al.   I will give Al's advice a shot.   I
think I still might go through the battery directly though, I'd be afraid
that
going through the fan circuit breaker would give me fan noise in the CB.
I'll
try both, and I will use the thicker gauge wire.   I'm not sure if there is
a
good ground around the fuse box area like you mentioned.   Any suggestions
there?   And I will try grounding the antenna to the engine block and see
how
that turns out.   Anyone else have other tips to try?

-Patrick C.
1880


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 22:37:14 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Extended convex mirrors

I was waiting more information about the installation.
Now that I've got that, I have placed my order.
And, no, I won't excuse the pun. I like them.
I look forward to seeing behind me better. :-)

-Kevin


On 6/11/05, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_delorean.co.uk> wrote:
> 
> Tom, your experience mirrors (please excuse the pun) that which Toby had
> when he had his first set of TABs made. It took him months to sell them
> all, but word did eventually spread and they've become a sought after
> item for the DeLorean
> 
> Martin
> 
[moderator snip]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 03:36:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: hot outside, no start discussion

Actually the earlier cars did have a high failure rate on the inertia
switch. There was a recall on them and they were moved from the
origional location on the Lambda counter to the side of the footwheel
by the release for the hood. If your inertia switch does not have a
splotch of white paint on the side it is an early one and should be
replaced. If you have the later one with a white splotch and it isn't
working it should be replaced. If your inertia switch is on the Lambda
counter it should be moved. The original RPM relays also do fail. If
you have one with "bubbled" parts on it then just replace it too. If
both of these parts have failed you might suspect the fuel pump is
drawing too much current and it may damage the new RPM relay and
inertia switch before it, (the pump), fails. At the very least inspect
the wiring to the fuel pump and the #7 fuse. If the pump is noisy just
replace it before it does fail. A collapsing pick-up hose or one with
a hole in it can cause the fuel pump to wear out prematurely so check
it too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I sure haven't done much on this problem lately...
> However, I did have something sinister and possibly related crop up
> that I had to take care of.
> Apparently, when I did a little (uh, big?) bump off a curb/driveway I
> knocked the inertia switch out for good. Strange, as they apparently
> don't have a high failure rate. It looks ok, but jumping it got the
>  snip]







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 03:42:39 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure sensor

You will have a lot of trouble finding something that will fit the
threads. The danger of leaks and the possabilty of the plug comming
loose with the complete loss of oil presssure that will ruin the motor
is too great. Either live with the leak or reseal it with silicone
until you get a replacement. Another choice could be to gut the thing,
drill and tap it out and put a pipe plug in it. I am talking about the
sender on the left side of the motor, not the one by the oil filter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "eremhcel" <dmcfive0_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> My oil pressure sensor is leaking. I was able to fix it last year but 
> now it's leaking again. I'm going to order a replacement on Monday
> but 
> it probably won't get to me until Thursday or Friday. In the meantime 
> could I remove the sensor and plug the hole with a drain plug until
> my 
> new sensor arrives so I can still use my car without getting oil
> spots 
> on the driveway and the garage? Or will there be any problems? I 
> checked my oil level and it's okay. Thanks for the help.
> Mike
> 5623






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 03:56:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: CPR Testing

What were the origional symptoms that are causing you to suspect and
test the CPR? Not all cold start and warm-up problems are related to
the CPR. It is adjustable , just not on the car. If it is way out of
spec sometimes it can be "fixed" by cleaning the screen on the inlet.
On some the wiring inside burns up or comes loose. On some units
insects get in the vent and crud up the insides messing with it's
operation. Best not to fiddle with the internal adjustments. Just
clean it out inside and fix the wires if necessary. If that doesn't
help just replace it. The venders offer new and rebuilt. Rebuilt is a
LOT cheaper and just as good. You have to send the old one back for
credit after you replace it (if you choose the rebuilt). Since your
car had the turbo set-up make sure all the vacuum lines are done as
per "stock". The CPR changes fuel pressure in relation to engine
temperature (from the valve cover), vacuum, and engine on time (by the
heater and bi-metal element. There is a round check valve, make sure
it is installed in the correct direction. You need to check all this
out before condemming the CPR. If you do not them replacing the CPR
may not fix your problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "drdhdmd" <doctorDHD_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I am trying to test my CPR and have the CIS pressure tester.  With
> the 
> engine off at 80 degrees F, I get a system pressure reading of 72psi 
> and a control pressure of only 30psi.  According to the graph in the 
> manual it seems like the control pressure should be between 35 and 40.
> 
> Is this adjustable? The Bosch Fuel Injection book 
> by Watson says it is caused by a defective CPR. Can it be fixed?
> 
> Could I be doing something wrong in my measurement technique?  It
> seems 
> rather simple. Engine off, gauge attached,  RPM relay jumpered.
> (The technical information manual says to disconnect the intake 
> manifold vacuum hoses but with the engine off I can't see how this 
> could affect it...and it does not.)
> 
> What would a low control pressure when cold cause?  Excessivel rich 
> mixture, correct?
> 
> Any thought and ideas are welcome.
> 
> Dē & 6530
> Dave Delman






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 01:28:36 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: RE: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)

Marc,

I thought you were opposed to any moderation of the list and now you want to 
be a moderator???? I am aware that the DMC forum is looking for someone to 
"take it over" . Being an unmoderated list isn't this a better fit and 
opportunity for your ideals?

Cecil Longwisch
#10663






>From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
>Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 14:13:12 -0700 (PDT)
>
>With all due respect Mike, My comment (or jab) was not
>specifically at the loss (or rejection) of my messages
>because we could debate hours on the merits of why any
>particular message is accepted or rejected... (many of
>those posts can be found on the DMC Forum, for those
>who are interested)
>
>My point (jab) was that in the many years I have been
>a member of the DML, it has been customary for the
>moderators to reject a message with some sort of short
>explanation as to why.  In my case (lately) I do not
>even get a rejection notice.  Private e-mails to the
>moderators asking for explanation have also been
>ignored.
>
>(side note;  I remember a short time after we moved to
>E-Groups James set my account such that my messages
>were not even moderated..  Yes, I guess James even
>liked me at one time!  )
>
>Like me or not, I think all members of this community
>deserve a little more respect than that.  I know being
>a moderator may be a time consuming and thank-less
>job, but no one is holding a gun to your head to do
>it!
>
>If your looking for a moderator, I volunteer.
>
>
[moderator snip]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 20:21:44 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Steering / front suspension bushings

I need some new bushings up front (full list below) and am wondering
if any of our vendors have upgrades available? I can certainly get
plain old stock rubber bushings, but I'm always on the lookout for a
good upgrade (poly maybe?).

-- Tie rod ends/bushings
-- Sway bar bushings (all of them)

Any tips on this would be greatly appreciated. 

Also, what are "ball joint rubber covers?" I wrote down that I needed
them, but can't remember what they are or where they go.

-Ryan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 04:04:32 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)

Perhaps we could place a special request to all members.
Only write with technical questions, or responses to technical 
questions, or to let the group know about technical issue that has 
come up, or an event.  Vendors only include products when responding 
to a technical question that SOMEONE just asked.
Forget about your opinions about what you like and don't like 
because we don't really care.  We do like to hear about your car, 
and what you've done technically, we don't care about your opinion 
about what others have done.

Now, I know my technical question has been posted before, but, I've 
seen many different answers.  I'm wondering if anyone knows for 
absolute sure what the normal cycling time for the cooling fans when 
the air conditioner is on.. time on?,  time off?, or should it even 
cycle at all?  Thanks..


> 
> >From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [DML] Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
> >Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 14:13:12 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >With all due respect Mike, My comment (or jab) was not
> >specifically at the loss (or rejection) of my messages
> >because we could debate hours on the merits of why any
> >particular message is accepted or rejected... (many of
> >those posts can be found on the DMC Forum, for those
> >who are interested)
> >
> >My point (jab) was that in the many years I have been
> >a member of the DML, it has been customary for the
> >moderators to reject a message with some sort of short
> >explanation as to why.  In my case (lately) I do not
> >even get a rejection notice.  Private e-mails to the
> >moderators asking for explanation have also been
> >ignored.
> >
> >(side note;  I remember a short time after we moved to
> >E-Groups James set my account such that my messages
> >were not even moderated..  Yes, I guess James even
> >liked me at one time!  )
> >
> >Like me or not, I think all members of this community
> >deserve a little more respect than that.  I know being
> >a moderator may be a time consuming and thank-less
> >job, but no one is holding a gun to your head to do
> >it!
> >
> >If your looking for a moderator, I volunteer.
> >
> [moderator snip]







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 00:23:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Sputter when cold.


Since it's 2:16am, I'm going to aks this now rather
than search 45k+ messages.  

Here is the deal.  Whenever I start my car, I normally
let it warm up for 2-3 minutes.  No special reason - I
just normally do.  Now, say I start my car and try to
drive down the street immediately, not even 30 seconds
after starting the car.  I give it gas = sputter,
sputter, sputter - VROOOM.  I'll get to a stop
light/sign - come to a complete stop, floor the pedal,
and the car accelerates perfectly.  So it sputters
only from a dead cold start.

My question is what would be the possible suspects for
something like this?  EVERYTHING except the cold start
valve (which obviously may be the problem) has been
replaced.  Casey and I are going to use the CIS
K-Jetronic gauges to measure all the pressures, but
until he gets back from Houston, I can't run that test
yet.  Could this be the symptoms of the little screen
in the CPR being clogged up?  I ask this because that
was the VERY first part I put on this car before the
extensive "mini-restoration" was done from Dec 2003 -
May 2004, so I'm suspicous it may have been clogged
up.  Doesn't seem right though, but you all know how
these cars act sometimes - completely random with no
reasoning =P.

I thought I'd ask everyone from their respective
experiences to get an idea of what I'm looking at
here.  Doesn't seem to be anything major, but man is
it annoying if I want to just get in the car and go.

Jeremiah
#3299

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 12:58:32 +0200
From: "Tom" <tomciodmc_at_dml_poczta.onet.pl>
Subject: Re: Extended convex mirrors

John

The shipping of more than one set is so expensive that it just makes no 
sense. To ship 10 sets in one box I would have to pay over $150 for the slow 
sea shipment - 6 weeks delivery time. So, I don't really have much choice 
here. The way I ship it now takes 6 DAYS to deliver. There is no tracking 
like UPS does, but this is registered and numbered mail. OK, I cannot go to 
a website to check where the package is, but I can go to my post office and 
they can tell me exactly what happened to it and when. So there IS tracking 
available. It's just a bit more complicated to track the shipment and takes 
more time.
Another thing is that I'm not making enough money on those mirrors to grant 
any real discounts. For the time and trouble that went into this whole 
thing.....
The problem is that I live half a world away from most people that own a 
DeLorean. But, I didn't choose where I will be born :) And the DeLorean... 
its like a serious illness, once you catch it, there is no cure :)

Take care

Tom Niemczewski
jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
Save the dream so you can live the dream...

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 4:20 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] Extended convex mirrors


> Tom, This was what I was trying to tell you about shipping one set at a 
> time
> from over there to here. It would have been a lot cheaper and time saving 
> to
> ship to my place and I would reship to your customers over here. There
> really isn't any tracking it's only a confirmation when it arrives.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
>
> .
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
> Tom
> Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 4:32 PM
> To: DML
> Subject: [DML] Extended convex mirrors
>
>
> Hello all
>
> Here's another update on the production of the Extended convex heated
> mirrors for the DeLorean.
> I still have a few sets left. Actually more than a few. I'm really 
> surprised
> but a lot of people who were seriously interested in the mirrors decided 
> not
> to even reply to my emails! Before the mirrors were available I would get
> lots of emails saying that they want a set. Once I emailed them that the
> mirrors are here.... nothing, no reply to my email. I will try to contact
> those who preordered a set and wouldn't reply to me now.
> Anyway, I still have those mirrors available. I also have one set of the
> UNHEATED mirrors left if anyone is interested.
> Another thing, I had to change the way I ship mirrors. From now on I will 
> be
> using International Priority Registered Mail with Return Receipt. The 
> change
> came after one person did not receive the package and it seems to be lost.
> This way I will have more control over what happens to the shipment.
> Unfortunately that brings new price for shipping. Yet another reason for
> higher price is the fact that almost all use PayPal which costs me more.
> Here are the new prices when paying with PayPal:
> $125 US and Canada
> $122 Europe
> Contact me directly for other countries.
>
> I have to say that I am somewhat disappointed in some people from the DML. 
> I
> did not want to charge people up front for the mirrors and then make them
> wait another two months for them to arrive. I thought that someone might 
> not
> be too excited about sending the money overseas for a product that doesn't
> even exists. That is why I chose not to charge anything up front. And that
> was actually a bad idea. I borrowed the money to get the mirrors made and
> now I have lots of mirrors and a nice debt.
> So, if anyone preordered mirrors before but didn't get them yet, please do
> so now. Be fair, if you wanted a set, I made it for you and it's here
> waiting for you.
> If anyone is interested in a set, get it while they last.
> Installation instructions in PDF format are available for download from
> www.deloreana.com
>
> Greetings from Poland
>
> Tom Niemczewski
> jamesik_at_dml_vp.pl
> VIN 6149 (in Poland!)
> Save the dream so you can live the dream...
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 15:27:31 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Extended convex mirrors


Hey Guys,

I installed the new mirrors today and I am very pleased with the result.
It took me about 2 hours including searching for the correct tools.

Tom - great job !

But I made it a bit differently than you. I took the complete mirror
off of the car before messing with the glass or scratching the SS.
Before pulling out the wires I attached another wire to it so I didn't
have to use the stiff wire. I pulled the wires in and out very easily and
fast.

I am not sure if it makes any sense to attach the heating pads at all,
but I installed the wires - just in case... (maybe somebody makes a little
module to activate the heating 30 seconds after starting the car and turn it
off
after 2-3 minutes...?!?)
Without the heating stuff the whole job can be done in about an hour - with
experience even faster.

A heat gun is a bit too hot for my taste, a regular hairdryer works, too.
And it won't melt the plastic.

Before putting the door trims back on make sure, that the mirror-motors
work.
Those connectors are prone to do their jobs sometimes...or not...

As a positive side effect my passenger mirror doesn't vibrate anymore since
I
reinstalled the plastic guides correctly.

To get the the plastic cover off I pushed it out from the side where the
harness
exits the housing. Much better as the plastic won't be scratched.

I would say this was a fast and easy job, maybe also one of the best
investment
for my car, too.
I still have to test them in real traffic and on the Autobahn, but so far -
great !

Elvis & 6548...no more elephants hidden in the blind spots !






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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 14:56:48 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Millennium Concours preliminary update

Hi folks,

As usual, DMCH put on a fantastic open house. I'm sure the list will 
see a number of updates on the open house and the experience folks had.

The Millennium Concours had a stunning lineup of cars and the 
competition was extremely stiff. My thanks to all the competitors for 
sharing their exquisite cars with us and for all their work preparing 
their cars for the show. I hope everyone found the experience 
satisfying and rewarding. I'll submit a more comprehensive report on 
the event after I catch my breath a little.

The results of the concours competition are as follows:
1st place: Kris Smith
2nd place: Ken Koncelik
3rd place: Robert & Donnis Bowman


As you already know, this time the concours was coordinated by a new 
team with DMCH, P.J. Grady, and DeLorean Motor Center all jointly 
sponsoring the event. Thanks to all our generous sponsors for their 
support of the program.

   Knut







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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 16:00:19 -0000
From: "conundrum1984" <jeepno1_397_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Dome Lights

When I first got my DeLorean, my dome lights worked fine, push the lens 
one way, they came on, push it the other way and they came on with the 
doors open then tunred off after 10 seconds.  Now, I have LED's in 
there and they only work when pushed to the "on" position.  THey won't 
come one with the doors open.  Is something wrong with the LED's and 
this feature or could a wire be loose somewhere.  Which Relay is it?






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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 18:06:07 +0100
From: "Alistair McCann" <pilot25dmc_at_dml_o2.co.uk>
Subject: Re: DMC factory groundbreaking story

I can get a story and pictures from the guy if I get his phone number and 
address.....  Where in Nothern Ireland does he live???  I am pretty central 
to most of the country.

Alistair McCann
Northern Ireland. 





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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 19:13:31 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: "Features" Was: LEDs in Dome Lights-

Our little silver cars are the automotive equivalent of a school paper
written the night before it's due. At Pigeon Forge we learned that as
the black body cars were testing the assembly line, it was discovered
no one had remembered to design interior panels for the rear deck area
(we also learned that a proper pedal cluster had in fact been designed
but wouldn't fit the final Lotus chassis. The one we know was thrown
together in one morning). Cars were being maneuvered around the
factory with Vise Grips because no one had designed a steering wheel
yet. The wonder isn't that our little silver cars occasionally have
problems -- the wonder is that they aren't so riddled with them as to
be totally unusable!

DeLoreans are true oxymorons: they really are rather crappy cars, but
they are the most reliable and trouble free crappy cars you'll ever drive.

I think it's a point of pride that most DeLoreans arrive at shows
under their own power rather than towed on trailers.

And don't forget the significant number that are used as daily
transportation, myself included now (more than 100 miles per day).

Do unreadable dash clocks (90 degree viewing angle) meet your new
thread criteria?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <martin_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi Kevin
> 
> Here's a possible start to a new thread. I know what you mean, but 
> taking things tongue in cheek, I think the DeLorean is full of 
> "features" which are quirks unique to the car that serve absolutely no 
> purpose whatsoever but cannot be considered design flaws. I don't think 
> of the interior light delay as a quirk because it does not work as it 
> should. However, I'd like to kick off with a couple of suggestions -
can 
> anyone think of any more? To be on this list, it must be something that 
> in no way harms your enjoyment of the car, was not designed to be
there, 
> and cannot be considered a design flaw (eg lock module, tank sender, 
> warping fascias etc)
> 
> 1) The rev counter that leaps to a random reading when the ignition is 
> turned off, and stays there.
> 2) When taking your foot off the accellerator pedal quickly, you're 
> greeted with a very unique "twanggggg" noise.
> 3) Engine "hunts" when cold
> 
> Just a few ideas!
> 
> Martin
> 







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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 19:24:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Moderating DML (Techincal Issues)

Au contraire -- there are as many different solutions to technical
problems as there are individual DeLorean owners. Some work within
parameters of the original design. Others scrap the original design
and engineer alternative solutions. As a standard bearing member of
the latter, I've been on the sharp end of more barbs from the former
than I can or care to remember. Just because a problem is technically
related to the car does not guarantee its solution will not generate
moderatable responses.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I get messages rejected all the time.
> Looking back, it was for the better.
> I am all for freedom of speech, anti-censorship,
> yadda, yadda, yadda......but sometimes it just gets old.
> If you are not talking about politics in the first place you would
> not have anything to moderate.
> If discussions are kept on a technical nature then there
> would be no problems.
> 







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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 18:15:55 -0400
From: "Cecil Longwisch" <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: cooling fan cycle

The answer is that it depends.
Some of our cars are converted to where the cooling fans running 100% of the 
time when the air conditioning is running. In warm climates or in parades I 
prefer this modification.

The "normal" fan cycle is dependent on your otterstat swich which senses our 
coolant temperature. So, depending on your car and its cooling system 
condition the temperature may rise and fall at a different rate than 
another. i.e. are both fans working, is te radiator partially lugged or air 
flow restricted and of course ambient temperatures. Also, otterstat 
temperature contol is not an exact science as there is some variability in 
the temp. on/off in the switch itself.

Cecil Longwisch
#10663






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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 15:46:11 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Clutch woes

Quick background: I replaced my clutch last fall. Replaced most
everything - seals, bearings, disk, master/slave cylinders, line, etc.
Flywheel was machined at Napa. The clip on the clutch fork was broken,
so we engineered a fix. Everything worked fine until roughly two weeks
ago, the clutch began engaging only at the very top of pedal travel.
Like it was already worn out. Things went from working great to barely
working immediately; there was no "slow degredation" - one day
everything was perfect, the next it wasn't. I bled the clutch but
nothing changed. I drove it two more weeks trying to delay the
inevitable, but last Thursday the clutch began slipping so I parked
the car. It's a daily driver, so there are ~5,000 miles on the new
clutch. Also, this is the Centerforce complete system kit from Grady.

The transmission is now out. I took some pictures because I don't
fully understand what the problem is.

Full flywheel pic: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/flywheel.jpg
Close-up: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/flywheel_close.jpg

Looks like the area where the clutch disk goes is worn down quite a
bit. How is this possible? I do not abuse the clutch - at all. Was it
simply machined down too far? Or maybe it had been turned in the past,
before I owned the car, and was on its last legs already? The disk
area is *slightly* higher than the outside ring, but not by much. Do I
need a new flywheel?

There is another potential issue: The little clip on the back of the
clutch fork broke off. It was already damaged when I replaced the
clutch last fall. We rigged up a fix (which held), but the "Y" part of
the clip at the end gave up and went who-knows-where. Could this cause
the clutch travel to change and the clutch disk to slip? Do I need a
new clutch fork? Can I just buy that little clip?

Picture of fork: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/fork.jpg

The pressure plate and clutch disk have some interesting patterns on
them. Not sure if that's normal:

Pressure plate: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/plate.jpg
Closeup: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/plateclose.jpg

Clutch disk: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/disk.jpg
Closeup: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/diskclose.jpg

At this point I am unsure how to proceed, and could really use your advice. :)

Thank you,

-Ryan




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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 18:24:25 -0500
From: kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: hot outside, no start discussion

The inertia switch was on the lambda counter... does it just get screwed 
into the fiberglass in the new position? I suppose that is written up in the 
book of recalls and stuff and I should be able to find it. How do they 
function? I know they cut off the fuel pumpt and open the locks if 
triggered, but once tripped is plunger suppossed to stay up until reset? If 
so, it has never done that. 

I rarely hear the fuel at all. I did notice that the red wire connection on 
top of it had what looked to be a little rust-- discoloration anyway. It's 
about 7 years old. The middle plug in the intertia switch looks like it has 
been hot at some time, probably recently. Those things are tough-- it'll 
take some cutting to get it apart and examine the insides.
I just cleaned the fuses off, so that end of the run should be good.
Thanks for the advice.
-Kevin
#4687 (an early car? it's 10/81, the big production month)

On 6/11/05, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> 
> Actually the earlier cars did have a high failure rate on the inertia
> switch. There was a recall on them and they were moved from the
> origional location on the Lambda counter to the side of the footwheel
> by the release for the hood. If your inertia switch does not have a
> splotch of white paint on the side it is an early one and should be
> replaced. If you have the later one with a white splotch and it isn't
> working it should be replaced. If your inertia switch is on the Lambda
> counter it should be moved. The original RPM relays also do fail. If
> you have one with "bubbled" parts on it then just replace it too. If
> both of these parts have failed you might suspect the fuel pump is
> drawing too much current and it may damage the new RPM relay and
> inertia switch before it, (the pump), fails. At the very least inspect
> the wiring to the fuel pump and the #7 fuse. If the pump is noisy just
> replace it before it does fail. A collapsing pick-up hose or one with
> a hole in it can cause the fuel pump to wear out prematurely so check
> it too.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> > I sure haven't done much on this problem lately...
> > However, I did have something sinister and possibly related crop up
> > that I had to take care of.
> > Apparently, when I did a little (uh, big?) bump off a curb/driveway I
> > knocked the inertia switch out for good. Strange, as they apparently
> > don't have a high failure rate. It looks ok, but jumping it got the
> > snip]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
> www.dmcnews.com <http://www.dmcnews.com>
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
-Kevin


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 16:25:56 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)

>> Forget about your opinions about what you like and don't like
>> because we don't really care.

Speak for yourself. Some of us care.

What is the point of a club (this list is essentially one) where you
can't discuss particulars of how the club is operated?

-Ryan

On 6/11/05, funkstuf <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:
> Perhaps we could place a special request to all members.
> Only write with technical questions, or responses to technical
> questions, or to let the group know about technical issue that has
> come up, or an event.  Vendors only include products when responding
> to a technical question that SOMEONE just asked.
> Forget about your opinions about what you like and don't like
> because we don't really care.  We do like to hear about your car,
> and what you've done technically, we don't care about your opinion
> about what others have done.
>




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 00:25:47 -0000
From: "secret_jedi_guy" <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Auto to Manual conversion

How difficult is the process of converting a stock auto to the stock 5-
speed?  I understand that the manual transaxles are much stronger than 
the auto and mine is starting to act a little funny.  It now has about 
70K miles on it and that is long past the shift computer's prime, and 
my car is one of the earlier cars.  

I'm just curious as to how much work and what parts I would need in 
order to do it.  This is just for future reference so answers don't 
have to be too detailed.

Also, to those are with DMCH on the list, if I brought my car down for 
restoration, would you be able to switch it to a 5-speed 
configuration?  The car would stay 100% stock other than being 
switched to a manual transaxle.

Thanks for the tech support!

Japheth Deaux
VIN: 1223  






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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 17:34:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean Sighting at Johnson Space center

Hello,

while on the tram ride at Johnson Space center today
(sunday june 12) in houston, I spotted a DeLorean in a
parking lot near one of the buildings with the license
plate NAS MAN  .. any idea who the car belongs to and
if the owner is on the list??

-Chris
#6453
still in houston without my DeLorean




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