From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2676
Date: Monday, June 13, 2005 8:46 AM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Front License Plate Holes Question
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

2. RE: Sputter when cold.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

3. DMCH 2005 Open House
From: "Christian Jarzab" <ccjarzab_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. RE: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. open house
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>

6. Re: Almost fixed
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Sputter when cold.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Frequency Valve operation
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

9. Re: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Need advice on frame problem
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

11. Re: Oil pressure sensor
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Eurofest Teaser DVD
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Shifting and sealing problems, M/T
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

14. update to my problem
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

15. RE: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Steering / front suspension bushings
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

17. Re: update to my problem
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: A/C Cycling
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

19. Re: Auto to Manual conversion
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

20. Re: update to my problem
From: Bob Hajjar <yesinfred_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Re: Sputter when cold.
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. WAS: needs some good stainless polish. Ebay item=4555788377
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

23. RE: Shifting and sealing problems, M/T
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. DeLorean Books wanted
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com

25. Project DeLorean????
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 20:36:16 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Front License Plate Holes Question

In a message dated 6/10/2005 5:20:15 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
mrvideosawyer_at_dml_netscape.net writes:

Unfortunately this somewhat limits my options of where to obtain a  car
>(unless I want to cough up for a new fascia).  Are the holes  from the
>license plate bracket repairable without looking funny?  I'm not sure
>if I could really be satisified if they were  just
>filled/sanded/painted.  Is it reasonable to think that a  service shop
>or new owner located in a city that requires the front  plates be
>willing to swap one out with an original fascia with no  holes?  It may
>seem like a pretty petty thing to some of you (in  perspective of say,
>rust or bad wiring fixes) but it's as important to  me as the interior
>color and hood design.  Waiting this long for a  car has made me very
>picky., 
 
 
Steelskin,
 
If the license plate bracket was drilled into the fascia with three bolts  
and "T" shaped plate holder was used (I believe the factory version is this  
one), then I have a solution.  I get these black plastic cap things that  pop 
right into the holes and they match the bumper.  It is very tasteful  and looks 
great, next best thing to having a fascia WITHOUT holes!  I can  supply these 
for you for very cheap if you can't find them anywhere.  I  actually got the 
idea from another list member.
 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 19:42:43 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Sputter when cold.

Jeremiah, Warm up regulator.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Jeremiah Montee
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 1:24 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Sputter when cold.



Since it's 2:16am, I'm going to aks this now rather
than search 45k+ messages.

Here is the deal.  Whenever I start my car, I normally
let it warm up for 2-3 minutes.  No special reason - I
just normally do.  Now, say I start my car and try to
drive down the street immediately, not even 30 seconds
after starting the car.  I give it gas = sputter,
sputter, sputter - VROOOM.  I'll get to a stop
light/sign - come to a complete stop, floor the pedal,
and the car accelerates perfectly.  So it sputters
only from a dead cold start.

[moderator snip]




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 01:25:15 -0000
From: "Christian Jarzab" <ccjarzab_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMCH 2005 Open House

Props to Stephen, James, Warren, and the whole DMCH staff for putting 
on a really great open house.  Bill Collins, the warehouse tour and 
tech seminar were all very imformative.  All of the people/car owners 
my wife Melanie and I met were very nice and sincere and I loved 
hearing about their car stories.  Delorean owners and enthusiasats are 
truly some of the nicest people you can meet!  We have seen first hand 
the close bond and passion that members of the Delorean community 
share and we (as still non car owners) are very excited about becoming 
more involved in the community and attending future events.

Christian Jarzab
Phoenix, AZ
VIN (James, maybe Sept? :-)

 
     






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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 19:55:19 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)

Dale,
Cycling time depends on how much warm or cold air is blowing over the
Evaporator coil, how much freon is in the system and the setting on the
cycling switch. You can see the difference by switching to normal, put the
blower on 3 or 4 and the cycling will slow down.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of funkstuf
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2005 10:05 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Special rules for me (Marc Levy)


Perhaps we could place a special request to all members.
Only write with technical questions, or responses to technical
questions, or to let the group know about technical issue that has
come up, or an event.  Vendors only include products when responding
to a technical question that SOMEONE just asked.
Forget about your opinions about what you like and don't like
because we don't really care.  We do like to hear about your car,
and what you've done technically, we don't care about your opinion
about what others have done.

Now, I know my technical question has been posted before, but, I've
seen many different answers.  I'm wondering if anyone knows for
absolute sure what the normal cycling time for the cooling fans when
the air conditioner is on.. time on?,  time off?, or should it even
cycle at all?  Thanks..


[moderator snip]





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 01:50:24 -0000
From: "andy" <andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: open house

Just a quick note to say the Blackmon from Birmingham have made it 
home. We had a swell time at the open house and it was nice to meet 
some of the people I have been talking to for years.
Andy Blackmon  3513






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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 02:27:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Almost fixed

Just because you have new seals doesn't mean they can't leak. Some
venders supply seals that fit rather loosely. Wrapping some teflon
tape around it before you reinstall the injector may help. If the
supports are leaking I guess you could either put a bead of silicone
around it or you could remove it and silicone it back in. The A/C
should cycle, in fact it has to if it is properly set up. If it isn't
cycling here are some of the things to check:
Low pressure switch adjustment
Overcharge of refrigerent
Obstructed condensor or evaporator
A problem with one or both cooling fans (wrong direction, loose fan,
inoperative motor)
Heater fan not rotating in the correct direction.
There are other, harder to check things, these are among the most
common causes. This A/C system does not have the more sophisticated
valving that newer systems have to prevent the evaporator from going
below atmospheric and frosting over. To prevent that it has to cycle.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "painterdave72" <painterdave72_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> --- Hey Dave i do have new seals on alll injecors.. the mechanic
said that 
> when he did the leak test he did around the base of the support and
he could 
> see it suck some of the oil into the head there.. they shouldnt be
that hard to 
> do i hope... dont know... also another question I just had my ac
charged ... 
> should the compressor run all the time?? cause it doesnt seem to
shut off and 
> t






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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 02:55:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Sputter when cold.

Being a mechanical fuel injection system primeraly it cannot operate
like a modern system. It is "normal" for it to act that way. Some seem
worse than others. There are some things you can do to minimize the
sputter. Clean and gap the spark plugs as close to each other as you
can. Replace the ignition wires if they are old. Replace the ignition
coil if it is breaking down under load. Check the initial timing and
the mechanical and vacuum advance to be sure they are operating
correctly. Correct any vacuum leaks. Make sure the vacuum lines to the
CPR are routed correctly and do not leak. The cold start valve is only
operating during cranking when cold. Once the motor starts (or is
warm) the cold start valve is inactive. The CPR could be part of the
cause but it usually is a problem not so much immediatly after
starting but during the warm-up period. If the car runs well during
warm-up and when warm the CPR probably isn't the problem. The other
solution is to just drive a little easier on the throttle for the
first mile or 2 till it can warm up. Until the car warms up some
systems are not active and others are locked into a "warm-up" mode so
it will not run as well cold as it can warm. That is just the way it is.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> 
> Since it's 2:16am, I'm going to aks this now rather
> than search 45k+ messages.  
> 
> Here is the deal.  Whenever I start my car, I normally
> let it warm up for 2-3 minutes.  No special reason - I
> just normally do.  Now, say I start my car and try to
> drive down the street immediately, not even 30 seconds
> after starting the car.  I give it gas = sputter,
> sputter, sputter - VROOOM.  I'll get to a stop
> light/sign - come to a complete stop, floor the pedal,
> and the car accelerates perfectly.  So it sputters
> only from a dead cold start.
> 
> My question is what would be the possible suspects for
> something like this?  EVERYTHING except the cold start
> valve (which obviously may be the problem) has been
> replaced.  Casey and I are going to use the CIS
> K-Jetronic gauges to measure all the pressures, but
> until he gets back from Houston, I can't run that test
> yet.  Could this be the symptoms of the little screen
> in the CPR being clogged up?  I ask this because that
> was the VERY first part I put on this car before the
> extensive "mini-restoration" was done from Dec 2003 -
> May 2004, so I'm suspicous it may have been clogged
> up.  Doesn't seem right though, but you all know how
> these cars act sometimes - completely random with no
> reasoning =P.
> 
> I thought I'd ask everyone from their respective
> experiences to get an idea of what I'm looking at
> here.  Doesn't seem to be anything major, but man is
> it annoying if I want to just get in the car and go.
> 
> Jeremiah
> #3299
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com







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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 02:58:48 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Frequency Valve operation

Fine tuning the engine today, noticed that the frequency valve will 
not operate unless the CO adjustment is turned CCW-lean,. FV will
then 
cycle on for about 4 seconds-fade off for a few seconds, and then
back 
on. The engine runs rough compared to turning the screw a bit towards 
rich-it will then run smooth which is how I'm running it now-but the 
FV isn't on. After a little while I'll start the car and the FV will 
cycle (causing a major hunt in idle), but after the engine warms up
it 
will shut off and not come back on at all. Bad O2 sensor? -----Dani
B. 
#5003






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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 02:38:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)

Technical issues do generate less controversy but they are not immune
to it. I have posts bounce too. Just not so many if you stay strictly
technical. Now for your answer. The cooling fans do not cycle on and
off when the A/C is running. The strict technical answer is the clutch
for the compressor for the A/C is cycled and when the clutch is cycled
off the cooling fans MAY cycle off. The otterstdt switch can run the
cooling fans too. The clutch circuit for the compressor can override
the otterstadt switch and force the fans to run when the A/C clutch is
engaged even if the otterstadt switch is no trying to run the fans.
Works the other way too. It is an either/or. In some extreme
circumstances both could be running the fans. Watch out for the
circuit breaker for the fans to cycle them. That should not happen.
You will hear it "POP" and the fans will stop. In that case upgrade
the circuit breaker. I like the idea of Mark doing some moderation.
Then he will see what it is like on "the other side".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Perhaps we could place a special request to all members.
> Only write with technical questions, or responses to technical 
> questions, or to let the group know about technical issue that has 
> come up, or an event.  Vendors only include products when responding 
> to a technical question that SOMEONE just asked.
> Forget about your opinions about what you like and don't like 
> because we don't really care.  We do like to hear about your car, 
> and what you've done technically, we don't care about your opinion 
> 







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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 03:00:21 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Need advice on frame problem

I was in the process of replacing my cooling hoses from the front to
the rear of the car, and when I removed the fuel tank cover plate, I
noticed that the epoxy on the top of it was practically falling off. 
Not only that, but so was the epoxy on the frame that was in that
section.  I was disgusted, because the frame at this place was fine
the last time I removed this cover plate a little over a year ago. 
Between then and now, I've driven the car about 10 miles.  

I looked around for the source.  It definitely smells like brake or
clutch fluid.  The clutch master cylinder looks pretty good (I can
still see the original plating intact and such), but the brake master
cylinder looks like hell.  Completely rusted and actually, it looked a
little damp.  I figure it must have leaked.  Checking the fluid level,
the reservoir looks about half-full.  I know when I last bled the
brakes that I filled it more than that.  

My real problem here is that it seems like I won't be able to get at
all of the areas that the epoxy has melted off.  At least, not without
pulling out the fuel tank.

What should I do here?  Separate the body from the frame?  Drop the
fuel tank?  I would consider sending it to DWC (Rich W's business) or
PJ Grady, etc, but I'm in the middle of my eagle premier swap, and it
doesn't run yet.  I'm not sure who ships cars like that.  I know that
Passport Transport won't unless the vehicle is driveable.  

If anyone could offer any other perspectives or thoughts, I'd
appreciate it.

Matt
#1604








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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 02:42:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure sensor

All 1/8" pipe fittings on the PRV are BSPT -- 28 TPI (versus 1/8" NPT
-- 27 TPI). Such fittings are very easy to obtain mail order (McMaster
Carr for example) but are rare over the counter. I'd recommend adding
1/8" BSPT tap & die to your American set for just such emergencies --
you could have turned down the smooth part of a 3/8" bolt to plug the
sender hole.

BSPT are handy for custom work too. I replaced my PCV valve (unique to
my installation) with a calibrated nipple from a surplus cold start
tube. Nipple threads are of course BSPT. Used my tap to modify a brass
fitting to join the nipple to a larger hose barb (again, unique to my
installation).

Bill Robertson
#5939
  
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> You will have a lot of trouble finding something that will fit the
> threads. The danger of leaks and the possabilty of the plug comming
> loose with the complete loss of oil presssure that will ruin the motor
> is too great. Either live with the leak or reseal it with silicone
> until you get a replacement. Another choice could be to gut the thing,
> drill and tap it out and put a pipe plug in it. I am talking about the
> sender on the left side of the motor, not the one by the oil filter.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 








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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 21:50:44 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Eurofest Teaser DVD

Many of you are getting home from Houston and going through your goodie bag
you will notice a DVD that was provided by Robert Lamrock from Ireland.
Well, mine doesn't play in my DVD player and I am guessing that it is 
because
they did in a European codec not readable in the US.
I did get it to play in my hacked XBOX that will read any region disc.
I am working on converting it.....

Please let me know if anyone else is having this problem.

BTW: This is the same little documentary that the guy on ebay from the UK 
sells
as his "special documentary".
It is called "DeLorean Fever" and made my Ulster TV.
Very good might I say so myself!

- Videobob






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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 03:20:10 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Shifting and sealing problems, M/T

Hey guys, another problem I'm hoping to get some help on. When I am 
shifting, the gears will grind only when shifting into 2nd or 5th. I'm 
not shifting super fast but I am shifting fast; I don't think the 
speed of shifting is my problem otherwise it would grind in all gears. 
It was also really difficult to shift it into 5th on the highway at 
high speeds I had to force it hard into gear. The only way for the 
gears not to grind is to shift out of the gear, and wait a few second 
before putting it into the next gear. This has only started happening 
this year, I never had this problem before. The clutch master cylinder 
and slave cylinders have been replaced within the last 4 years and are 
fine; I haven't needed to add fluid in years so you can rule those out 
as a problem. I also could use a bit of help on the lip seal 104216, 
on the right side of the transmission if you were looking at it from 
the rear of the car forward. I've replaced this seal twice within a 
year and this side is still leaking, what am I doing wrong? Thanks for 
all the help! ------Dani B. #5003






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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 03:26:45 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: update to my problem

The carpet underneath the driver's side footwell area is damp and has
either brake or clutch fluid all over.  It's pretty well soaked into
the padding.  I can't see where it leaked to there from, though.  Does
this mean it's the clutch master cylinder?

thanks,


Matt
#1604







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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 21:26:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Special rules for me (Marc Levy)

Just trying to help my fellow DeLorean owners.

--- Cecil Longwisch <dmc1982_at_dml_msn.com> wrote:

> Marc,
> 
> I thought you were opposed to any moderation of the
> list and now you want to 
> be a moderator???? I am aware that the DMC forum is
> looking for someone to 
> "take it over" . Being an unmoderated list isn't
> this a better fit and 
> opportunity for your ideals?
> 
> Cecil Longwisch
> #10663
<SNIP>


		
__________________________________ 
Discover Yahoo! 
Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM and more. Check it out! 
http://discover.yahoo.com/online.html




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 20:53:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Steering / front suspension bushings



--- Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:

> I need some new bushings up front (full list below)
> and am wondering
> if any of our vendors have upgrades available? I can
> certainly get
> plain old stock rubber bushings, but I'm always on
> the lookout for a
> good upgrade (poly maybe?).
> 
> -- Tie rod ends/bushings
> -- Sway bar bushings (all of them)
Ryan,
Do you want new tie rod ends or bushings?There is no
bushings on the tie rod ends.They go straight onto the
steering knuckle and are held there by a castleated
nut.While you're in there you may as well replace the
bushings in your control arms if needed and inspect
the lower control arms for rust or cracking.Last year
my left lower control arm broke!
Not sure if any vendors sell upgraded bushes for the
suspension but I think stock bushes should be
perfectly adequate.

> Also, what are "ball joint rubber covers?" I wrote
> down that I needed
> them, but can't remember what they are or where they
> go?
These are the covers that go over the ball joints.They
hold in the grease on the ball joint.I recently
replaced the ball joints on my car and they came with
the covers and a metal clip to hold them on as the
boots had split on my old ball joints and the grease
leaked out wrecking the joints.
Cheers,
Andrew
2883
Australia


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 06:15:31 EDT
From: andydandy777_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: update to my problem

Matt, for what it is worth the time this happened to me, my heater core was  
leaking, and it was anti-freeze in my floor, I hope this isn't your  case.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 06:19:53 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: A/C Cycling

Actually "sophisticated valving" isn't new at all. They're known as
Thermal Expansion Valves. Every household refrigerator and central or
window A/C unit has had them for decades. Most car manufacturers other
than GM used them too. They yield much smoother and more precise freon
metering than a fixed orifice tube. One of my long term projects is to
convert my DeLo to such a system. I can feel my OEM cooling fans cycle
even at highway speeds!

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Just because you have new seals doesn't mean they can't leak. Some
> venders supply seals that fit rather loosely. Wrapping some teflon
> tape around it before you reinstall the injector may help. If the
> supports are leaking I guess you could either put a bead of silicone
> around it or you could remove it and silicone it back in. The A/C
> should cycle, in fact it has to if it is properly set up. If it isn't
> cycling here are some of the things to check:
> Low pressure switch adjustment
> Overcharge of refrigerent
> Obstructed condensor or evaporator
> A problem with one or both cooling fans (wrong direction, loose fan,
> inoperative motor)
> Heater fan not rotating in the correct direction.
> There are other, harder to check things, these are among the most
> common causes. This A/C system does not have the more sophisticated
> valving that newer systems have to prevent the evaporator from going
> below atmospheric and frosting over. To prevent that it has to cycle.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 








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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 12:08:05 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Auto to Manual conversion

I recently had my car changed from auto to manual, and I think it was the best choice I ever made for the car. Its acceleration is better, driving fun, and also the reliability. I only decided to change it because the auto box was dying and needed replacement badly.
 
Parts needed:
Manual gearbox
Clutch
Manual gearbox mounts
Manual shifter (mods to the frame to support this)
Manual linkage
Manual pedal box
Clutch fluid reservoir
Clutch fluid pipes
Rewire the starter motor
A lot of money
 
Theres probably a lot more to that but I cant remember off hand. Paul O'Malley did the conversion for me, and he said he would never do another one again lol. I'm sure DMCH would do it but I wouldnt want to imagine how much that would cost.
 
Good luck
Thomas Mc Auley
Vin #4087


secret_jedi_guy <secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> How difficult is the process of converting a stock
> auto to the stock 5-speed? I understand that the
> manual transaxles are much stronger than the auto
> and mine is starting to act a little funny. It now
> has about 70K miles on it and that is long past the
> shift computer's prime, and my car is one of the
> earlier cars. 
>
> I'm just curious as to how much work and what parts
> I would need in order to do it. This is just for
> future reference so answers don't have to be too detailed.
> 
> Also, to those are with DMCH on the list, if I brought my
> car down for restoration, would you be able to switch it
> to a 5-speed configuration? The car would stay 100% stock
> other than being switched to a manual transaxle.
> 
> Thanks for the tech support!
> 
> Japheth Deaux
VIN: 1223




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 04:28:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Hajjar <yesinfred_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: update to my problem

That's what mine was.

Matt Spittle <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu> wrote:The carpet underneath the driver's side footwell area is damp and has
either brake or clutch fluid all over. It's pretty well soaked into
the padding. I can't see where it leaked to there from, though. Does
this mean it's the clutch master cylinder?

thanks,


Matt
#1604




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 04:16:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Sputter when cold.

I have gotten numerous replies to my "sputter when
cold" issue, and I just wanted to say publicly thank
you to everyone's quick responses.  That's the kind of
support and help I truly appreciate.

Jeremiah
#3299 - CPR being heavily eyeballed now




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 09:24:29 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: WAS: needs some good stainless polish. Ebay item=4555788377

 
 
This gentleman called me on Saturday morning about the car, wants me to  look 
at her with him...the asking price is $11,500...way too much for this "barn  
find"
 
The car is in a private airplane hanger near Frederick Maryland, way  out in 
the middle of B.F.E.
 
Sincerely Yours,
Michael Pack
 
 
In a message dated 06/12/2005 11:30:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com writes:

Wow.  That poor car. And he's asking $6500? Looks like it needs to go
to the  scrap heap. For crying out loud, they could have at least
washed it up a  little...

-Ryan

On 6/12/05, Joe OBrien  <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Jeesh, talk about letting a  Delorean turn to shit.
> 
> 
>  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
>  ViewItem&item=4555788377&indexURL=0#ebayphotohosting
> 
>  or
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/cz9k9
> 
> 
>  -Joe




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 07:10:56 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Shifting and sealing problems, M/T

Dan, There are 2 seals inside the clutch master that we make new. The one on
the end of the plunger may not be sealing properly and allowing fluid to go
back into the reservoir when the peddle is depressed. Normally it would show
up in all gears when shifting and you wouldn't have full travel of fluid to
the slave.
The lip seal is a combination of seal and O Ring. Did you replace both. The
seal I use is a double lip, lip seal.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of stainlessilusion
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 9:20 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Shifting and sealing problems, M/T


> Hey guys, another problem I'm hoping to get some
> help on. When I am shifting, the gears will grind
> only when shifting into 2nd or 5th. I'm not shifting
> super fast but I am shifting fast; I don't think the
> speed of shifting is my problem otherwise it would
> grind in all gears.  It was also really difficult
> to shift it into 5th on the highway at high speeds
> I had to force it hard into gear. The only way for the
> gears not to grind is to shift out of the gear, and
> wait a few second before putting it into the next gear.
> This has only started happening this year, I never had
> this problem before. The clutch master cylinder and
> slave cylinders have been replaced within the last 4
> years and are fine; I haven't needed to add fluid in
> years so you can rule those out as a problem. I also
> could use a bit of help on the lip seal 104216,
> on the right side of the transmission if you were
> looking at it from the rear of the car forward. I've
> replaced this seal twice within a year and this side
> is still leaking, what am I doing wrong? Thanks for
>all the help! ------Dani B. #5003





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 09:39:14 EDT
From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Books wanted

Hello Gentleman:
 
Looking for a pristine copy of Motor Makers of Ireland and DeLorean by  
Fallon & Strodes...the UK edition (has red & black dust jacket)
 
Please email me if you have one available.
 
Sincerely Yours,
Michael Pack
USA





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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 09:44:54 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <mcbabb_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Project DeLorean????

Anyone in the Annapolis area want to check out a DeLorean that is on eBay -
looks like they pulled it out of a creek . . . I am just curious to see what
the rest of the car looks like, and what it's true condition is under all of
the muck.

 

http://tinyurl.com/d4s4j 

 

Michael



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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