From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2677
Date: Monday, June 13, 2005 3:14 PM

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Frequency Valve operation
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Auto to Manual conversion
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: hot outside, no start discussion
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Shifting and sealing problems, M/T
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Need advice on frame problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. RE: WAS: needs some good stainless polish. Ebay item=4555788377
From: "Kevin Milliken" <kevin.milliken_at_dml_btinternet.com>

7. Re: Millennium Concours preliminary update
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

8. RE: Eurofest Teaser DVD
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>

9. Re: Steering / front suspension bushings
From: "Peter J.S. Korsten" <peter_korsten_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. On a Clear Day...
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Houston
From: mroboto_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Eurofest Teaser DVD
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

13. RE: update to my problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Garage Sign?
From: Chris Pilcic <chrisdmc82_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Re: Extended convex mirrors
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>

16. Re: Clutch woes
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. DMCH function finished
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

18. Re: Clutch woes
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

19. RE: WAS: needs some good stainless polish. Ebay item=4555788377
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

20. Re: Need advice on frame problem
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

21. Re: Shifting and sealing problems, M/T
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

22. Re: Need advice on frame problem
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

23. Re: Garage Sign?
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

24. Re: Need advice on frame problem
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. RE: update to my problem
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 14:03:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Frequency Valve operation

If the frequency valve won't run continuosly you have a bad/dirty
connection somewhere. It should not cut in and out. Even with a bad or
disconnected O2 sensor the frequency valve should buzz. Start by
making sure the Lambda ECU has a continuos 12 volts on it will the
engine is running. The relay that runs the Lambda does fail.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Fine tuning the engine today, noticed that the frequency valve will 
> not operate unless the CO adjustment is turned CCW-lean,. FV will
> then 
> cycle on for about 4 seconds-fade off for a few seconds, and then
> back 
> on. The engine runs rough compared to turning the screw a bit tow







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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 13:59:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Auto to Manual conversion

The conversion itself is not technically difficult. Getting all the
little pieces, parts, bits, etc, will be the hard part. Without a
donor car on hand it will be very difficult and EXPENSIVE. You may
recoup some of the expense by selling the left over parts. It will
turn out to be MUCH cheaper and faster to just fix what you have and
if you really want a 5-speed sell the car you now have and buy a
5-speed. As expensive as a rebuilt automatic transmission may seem it
will be cheap compared to the conversion. A lot faster too. Even with
a new shift computer. All you may need to fix up the auto trans is a
fluid and filter change, external adjustments, and a shift computer.
Make sure the vacuum modulater is working and check the line pressure.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "secret_jedi_guy"
<secret_jedi_guy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> How difficult is the process of converting a stock auto to the stock 5-
> speed?  I understand that the manual transaxles are much stronger than 
>






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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 13:51:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: hot outside, no start discussion

If the inertia switch is on the Lambda counter it is probably the
early one. The plunger is supposed to stay up if you move it to the up
position or it gets moved there. It does just screw into the
fiberglass. The recall has a template to position it. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kjc <ckevinj_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> The inertia switch was on the lambda counter... does it just get
screwed 
> into the fiberglass in the new position? I suppose that is written
up in the 
>






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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 14:19:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Shifting and sealing problems, M/T

Check the fluid level in the transmission. Some owners say changing to
synthetic helps a lot too. The leaking seal is because the output
flange is scored. The next time you replace the seal either get the
spacer to go over the scored area or get another output flange. You
may also need to make a slight adjustment in the shifter linkage. Do
not force the trans into 5th gear. You will bend the shifter fork.
Flush the old brake fluid out of the clutch master and slave, refill
and bleed with fresh Castrol GTLMA DOT 4. It has been over 2 years
since you did the master and slave. Do the brakes too.



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Hey guys, another problem I'm hoping to get some help on. When I am 
> shifting, the gears will grind only when shifting into 2nd or 5th. I'm 
> not shifting super fast but I am shifting fast; I don't think the 
> speed of shifting is my problem otherwise it would grind in all gell
the help! ------Dani B. #5003






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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 14:12:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Need advice on frame problem

To remove the fuel tank you do not have to remove the body from the
frame. Check the resovoir for the clutch and the brakes. The one that
is low (or the one you have been adding fluid to) is the leaker. Maybe
both are. Scrape the epoxy off wherever it is coming loose or has
softened. It is no longer adhering to the metal so if it is bubbling
up just scrape it off. Sand the metal, primer, and paint. If you think
it is the brakes look at the fluid. If it is dark it is probably
contaminatd. You should rebuild the entire brake system, not just the
master cylinder. Same for the clutch. The fluid in these systems
should be changed every 2 years. You don't have to attend to the epoxy
paint immediatly but you do have to replace the leaking parts NOW.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I was in the process of replacing my cooling hoses from the front to
> the rear of the car, and when I removed the fuel tank cover plate, I
> noticed that the epoxy on the top of it was practically falling off. 
> Not only that, but so was the epoxy on the frame that was in that
> section.  I was disgusted, because the frame at this place was fine
>







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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 15:26:55 +0100
From: "Kevin Milliken" <kevin.milliken_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: RE: WAS: needs some good stainless polish. Ebay item=4555788377

Hi

Stainless Steel polish ??

Without looking at the stainless steel or knowing
what is coated in, it could be micro perforated in which case
it would would need a complete set of panels.

It really needs to be looked at before considering bidding.

Kevin #5959


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
Sent: 13 June 2005 14:24
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com;
doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] WAS: needs some good stainless polish. Ebay
item=4555788377




> This gentleman called me on Saturday morning about the car,
> wants me to look at her with him...the asking price is
> $11,500...way too much for this "barn find"
>
> The car is in a private airplane hanger near Frederick
> Maryland, way  out in the middle of B.F.E.
>
> Sincerely Yours,
> Michael Pack

[long quote trimmed by moderator]




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 10:59:12 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Millennium Concours preliminary update

In a message dated 6/12/2005 5:46:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com writes:

The  results of the concours competition are as follows:
1st place: Kris  Smith
2nd place: Ken Koncelik
3rd place: Robert & Donnis  Bowman<<<<
Well who says third time is the charm (although Knut will argue its my  
fourth)
 
Each time I enter it is against Kris Smith and her car and so far each  time 
the results have been the same.  She gets the big one and I get the  next one 
LOL.
 
The three cars there this time were all close and it could have gone any  
way.  Roberts car was the surprise.  No one had ever seen his car and  it is 
extrememly original and non touched.  
 
So if I have to take second at least its to the best.  Kris you did a  great 
job again as usual
See you in a few years again ?????
 
I enjoyed the competition this year and I must say had my car as it was  been 
in the previous competitions the way it looked Saturday I may have had a  few 
first place trophies.
But the bottom line is that the bar for detail has raised so much since the  
first show I did
 
The judges now use flashlights and inspect every square inch instead of a  
general look over.
 
It just makes the cars better.
 
Don't worry as Arnold would say 
I'll be back LOL
 
Thanks guys this was a good one.
 
And the open house as well Very well done DMCH I enjoyed the time  there.
Ken






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 11:11:08 -0400
From: "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Eurofest Teaser DVD

Mr. Lamrock's DVD played perfectly in both my laptop and my home DVD player.

Greg


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Videobob Moseley
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 10:51 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Eurofest Teaser DVD


Many of you are getting home from Houston and going through your goodie bag
you will notice a DVD that was provided by Robert Lamrock from Ireland.
Well, mine doesn't play in my DVD player and I am guessing that it is 
because
they did in a European codec not readable in the US.
I did get it to play in my hacked XBOX that will read any region disc.
I am working on converting it.....

Please let me know if anyone else is having this problem.

BTW: This is the same little documentary that the guy on ebay from the UK 
sells
as his "special documentary".
It is called "DeLorean Fever" and made my Ulster TV.
Very good might I say so myself!

- Videobob




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 16:15:10 +0100 (BST)
From: "Peter J.S. Korsten" <peter_korsten_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Steering / front suspension bushings

Ed Uding has developed a total set of poly bushings. I
installed them, at it REALLY works wonders: much
tighter handling, 90 degree curves and all. Look for
them at www.dmc-service.nl\
--- Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com> wrote:

> 
> 
> --- Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> > I need some new bushings up front (full list
> below)
> > and am wondering
> > if any of our vendors have upgrades available? I
> can
> > certainly get
> > plain old stock rubber bushings, but I'm always on
> > the lookout for a
> > good upgrade (poly maybe?).
> > 
> > -- Tie rod ends/bushings
> > -- Sway bar bushings (all of them)
> Ryan,
> Do you want new tie rod ends or bushings?There is no
> bushings on the tie rod ends.They go straight onto
> the
> steering knuckle and are held there by a castleated
> nut.While you're in there you may as well replace
> the
> bushings in your control arms if needed and inspect
> the lower control arms for rust or cracking.Last
> year
> my left lower control arm broke!
> Not sure if any vendors sell upgraded bushes for the
> suspension but I think stock bushes should be
> perfectly adequate.
> 
> > Also, what are "ball joint rubber covers?" I wrote
> > down that I needed
> > them, but can't remember what they are or where
> they
> > go?
> These are the covers that go over the ball
> joints.They
> hold in the grease on the ball joint.I recently
> replaced the ball joints on my car and they came
> with
> the covers and a metal clip to hold them on as the
> boots had split on my old ball joints and the grease
> leaked out wrecking the joints.
> Cheers,
> Andrew
> 2883
> Australia




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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 15:20:05 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: On a Clear Day...

I was fortunate enough to win a signed copy of "On a Clear Day You Can 
See General Motors" at the Open House raffle.

In case anyone (especially James) thought I wasn't grateful by my 
flippant remark nothing is further from the truth. 

I've just about finished it already. It's an absolutely fascinating 
story and I could hardly put it down. I understand why DeLorean left 
GM and between the book and Bill Collins' lecture I found out just how 
incredibly hard it is to build a new car and get it to the public.

I'm more amazed than ever that DMC made it as far as they did. 
Government regulation and consumer safety groups have pretty much 
ensured that no one but the richest and wiliest individual will ever 
be able to start a truly independent auto company again. 

Thanks James, for getting the book into the prize pool.

Rich A.
#5335






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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 11:11:38 EDT
From: mroboto_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Houston

I have just returned from the Houston event, and am glad I went.
It was nice to see so many new faces that have not been at previous events.
The special guest speakers were fascinating, and their insight into the early 
development of the car was great. It's interesting to hear some of the rumors 
about the car finally get laid to rest by those who were directly involved. 
The photos and films were especially cool.

Even though I was not competing in the Concours this year, I was impressed 
with the cars that did. Knut and his judging staff did a great job of organizing 
and presenting the Concours. For those of you who have not competed in the 
Concours in the past, I highly recommend trying it in Chicago next year.

Many thanks to Stephen, James and the staff in Houston for all of the behind 
the scenes efforts.

Last but not least, thanks to Tony for sharing his Prototype car with us. 
It's nice to see that it will be in good hands for historical preservation. Tony 
has a VERY understanding wife, allowing him to buy it.

I'll see you all in Belfast and Chicago next year!

Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
3356 & 15779


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 15:32:30 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Eurofest Teaser DVD

I was able to play it on my computer's DVD drive, but not on any of 
the three DVD players of various vintages attached to my TVs (the 
newest one is over two years old). Two completely rejected it as an 
incompatible format, one tried to play it but would not sync.

Very cool video, by the way - as someone who was there I found that 
it was a very nice summary of the event, fantastic in-car shots from 
the test track. I'd like to go back!

Dave Swingle


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "timnagin" <timnagin_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Mr. Lamrock's DVD played perfectly in both my laptop and my home 
DVD player.
> 
> Greg
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On 
Behalf
> Of Videobob Moseley
> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 10:51 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Eurofest Teaser DVD
> 
> 
> Many of you are getting home from Houston and going through your 
goodie bag
> you will notice a DVD that was provided by Robert Lamrock from 
Ireland.
> Well, mine doesn't play in my DVD player and I am guessing that it 
is 
> because
> they did in a European codec not readable in the US.






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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 11:07:55 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: update to my problem

Clutch Master leaking.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com




-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Bob Hajjar
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 5:28 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] update to my problem


> That's what mine was.

Matt Spittle <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu> wrote:The carpet
> underneath the driver's side footwell area is damp
> and has either brake or clutch fluid all over. It's
> pretty well soaked into the padding. I can't see
> where it leaked to there from, though. Does
>this mean it's the clutch master cylinder?
>
>thanks,
>
>
>Matt
>#1604




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 08:55:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Pilcic <chrisdmc82_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Garage Sign?

hey everyone... I from time to time see brushed aluminum garage signs on E-bay.. does anyone know who makes them? and where i can order one?  I haven't seen one for a while, but i know you can get delorean or dmc.  
 
Thanks for the Help.  
 
Chris Pilcic 
10882




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 11:03:09 -0500
From: Greg Zapf <x86Daddy_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Extended convex mirrors

To those on the list still thinking about this purchase:

I ordered this as soon as it was ready, before the instructions were
out.  I haven't installed yet, as I'm having AC work done at the
moment, but I have since downloaded the instruction PDF from his
website (http://www.deloreana.com).  I must say "WOW," those are some
great instructions!  Please give it a look and see just how well he
covers every step with thorough text and photos...  after seeing
those, I have NO worries about the installation whatsoever.  Just
check out the PDF and see for yourself.

Also, the mirrors arrived very nicely packed... the outside box was
slightly beat up, but due to the way it was packed inside, nothing was
damaged.

--Greg
#2894





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 16:16:57 -0000
From: "John Rydholm" <ebondefender_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch woes

I can kind of relate to that. I had a new clutch installed recently 
as well. I gave my car to the local guy in town near where my 
parents used to live to refinish my flywheel and install the clutch. 
Big mistake. Not only did he take two months fixing OTHER cars 
first, but my manual trans has incredible difficulty shifting. It 
tends to get stuck in reverse and is almost impossible to shift into 
5th. The clutch is a brand new Valeo kit which I got from John 
Hervey. I have every confidence that the parts are just fine. I 
usually buy from him or PJGrady's site. But I think the mechanic may 
have misaligned my gear tubes or something, or screwed up my neutral 
gate. That's what one of my car buff friends told me. My dad thinks 
it's synchros but he's a pessimist. :P Yeah, and maybe a meteor will 
fall on the car too. geez! I currently have my D at a classic car 
specialist near Detroit. He's the man. He did a serious wiring 
restoration on her once before and I'm sure he will figure out what 
the heck's wrong with my trans. It's about the only part of my car I 
have not fixed. Once I get this thing all fixed up I'll try and 
borrow a digital camera and post some pics for you all. The 
stainless steel, the ripped leather seats, ahh the constrast. She's 
a great car to go get ice cream in. Or speed in the rain and listen 
to Megadeth. Take care all! -John- proud owner of a stupid Plymouth 
Duster as a spare car
(stuck in 1955 without a DeLorean currently)






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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 11:15:55 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: DMCH function finished

Okay, now that the DMCH Open House is over, where do you go this coming weekend?

How about Grand Bend, Ontario! 

Weather forecast for the coming weekend is clear, sunny and warm! I told I had connections! The beer is ice cold, the bikinis are hot, the sandy beach is beautiful and it is only 3/4 hour from Port Huron, Michigan, just north of Detroit. Please see the attachment and websites for directions.

Meet fellow DeLorean lovers and owners. Enjoy a relaxed weekend with a Saturday (11:30am) cruise to Bayfield, a unique lakefront, quaint village with boutiques &  shops like you have never seen before. Saturday lunch will be there. We'll also display our cars on the beach. Buy fries and cruise the main drag at the Bend. The weekend crowds soar to 15,000 and more. I guarantee you'll love the place.

There is no cost other than your own expenses. You will receive a goodie bag, including a souvenir, that will be worth a fortune on the Antique Road Show 2085.

www.grandbend.ca
www.oakwoodinnresort.com 

I'll be there Friday afternoon. Bring your photo I.D. for the border; bathing suit, a chair, and sun protector for the beach; and ................... a smile for me!

Marv. Stein
office: 519 - 434 - 1666
res:    519 - 438 - 7174
# 17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 
  ----------





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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 16:00:28 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch woes

Get yourself a new (or used) clutch fork, the only way you are sure 
to NOT have to do it again is with new parts...not parts that have 
been rigged, I've found this out many times the hard way. Also looks 
like someone cut the flywheel a bit too deep so you'll probably need 
to get one of these as well-but get a second opinion from others 
before hand. Kind of a dumb question but was the pressure plate 
bolted down tight? transmission bolted to the engine tightly? Was the 
air bled from the lines or was there any fluid leaking? You'll be 
back on the road in no time. -----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Quick background: I replaced my clutch last fall. Replaced most
> everything - seals, bearings, disk, master/slave cylinders, line, 
etc.
> Flywheel was machined at Napa. The clip on the clutch fork was 
broken,
> so we engineered a fix. Everything worked fine until roughly two 
weeks
> ago, the clutch began engaging only at the very top of pedal travel.
> Like it was already worn out. Things went from working great to 
barely
> working immediately; there was no "slow degredation" - one day
> everything was perfect, the next it wasn't. I bled the clutch but
> nothing changed. I drove it two more weeks trying to delay the
> inevitable, but last Thursday the clutch began slipping so I parked
> the car. It's a daily driver, so there are ~5,000 miles on the new
> clutch. Also, this is the Centerforce complete system kit from 
Grady.
> 
> The transmission is now out. I took some pictures because I don't
> fully understand what the problem is.
> 
> Full flywheel pic: 
http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/flywheel.jpg
> Close-up: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/flywheel_close.jpg
> 
> Looks like the area where the clutch disk goes is worn down quite a
> bit. How is this possible? I do not abuse the clutch - at all. Was 
it
> simply machined down too far? Or maybe it had been turned in the 
past,
> before I owned the car, and was on its last legs already? The disk
> area is *slightly* higher than the outside ring, but not by much. 
Do I
> need a new flywheel?
> 
> There is another potential issue: The little clip on the back of the
> clutch fork broke off. It was already damaged when I replaced the
> clutch last fall. We rigged up a fix (which held), but the "Y" part 
of
> the clip at the end gave up and went who-knows-where. Could this 
cause
> the clutch travel to change and the clutch disk to slip? Do I need a
> new clutch fork? Can I just buy that little clip?
> 
> Picture of fork: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/fork.jpg
> 
> The pressure plate and clutch disk have some interesting patterns on
> them. Not sure if that's normal:
> 
> Pressure plate: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/plate.jpg
> Closeup: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/plateclose.jpg
> 
> Clutch disk: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/disk.jpg
> Closeup: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/diskclose.jpg
> 
> At this point I am unsure how to proceed, and could really use your 
advice. :)
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> -Ryan






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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 11:27:48 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: WAS: needs some good stainless polish. Ebay item=4555788377

That car could be a find, because if all it needs is some touch up then your 
golden.
Worst case, you need to redo the seats, dash, binnacle, fuel and brakes.... 
you can do
all of that for about $5K or so and have a cherry car.
- Videobob

>From: Packodenton_at_dml_aol.com
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, 
>doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [DML] WAS: needs some good stainless polish. Ebay item=4555788377
>Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 09:24:29 EDT
>
>
>
>This gentleman called me on Saturday morning about the car, wants me to  
>look
>at her with him...the asking price is $11,500...way too much for this "barn
>find"
>
>The car is in a private airplane hanger near Frederick Maryland, way  out 
>in
>the middle of B.F.E.
>
>Sincerely Yours,
>Michael Pack
>
>
>In a message dated 06/12/2005 11:30:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com writes:
>
>Wow.  That poor car. And he's asking $6500? Looks like it needs to go
>to the  scrap heap. For crying out loud, they could have at least
>washed it up a  little...
>
>-Ryan
>
>On 6/12/05, Joe OBrien  <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Jeesh, talk about letting a  Delorean turn to sh!t.
> >
> >
> >  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> >  ViewItem&item=4555788377&indexURL=0#ebayphotohosting
> >
> >  or
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/cz9k9
> >
> >
> >  -Joe




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 16:22:27 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Need advice on frame problem

Before spending all the money on shipping and work-just pull the tank 
and see just how bad it really is. If you can clean up the fluid, 
prep the area and spray it with POR-15 you'll be all set. Get rid of 
the MC so it doesn't keep leaking all over the frame. -----Dani B. 
#5003




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> I was in the process of replacing my cooling hoses from the front to
> the rear of the car, and when I removed the fuel tank cover plate, I
> noticed that the epoxy on the top of it was practically falling 
off. 
> Not only that, but so was the epoxy on the frame that was in that
> section.  I was disgusted, because the frame at this place was fine
> the last time I removed this cover plate a little over a year ago. 
> Between then and now, I've driven the car about 10 miles.  
> 
> I looked around for the source.  It definitely smells like brake or
> clutch fluid.  The clutch master cylinder looks pretty good (I can
> still see the original plating intact and such), but the brake 
master
> cylinder looks like hell.  Completely rusted and actually, it 
looked a
> little damp.  I figure it must have leaked.  Checking the fluid 
level,
> the reservoir looks about half-full.  I know when I last bled the
> brakes that I filled it more than that.  
> 
> My real problem here is that it seems like I won't be able to get at
> all of the areas that the epoxy has melted off.  At least, not 
without
> pulling out the fuel tank.
> 
> What should I do here?  Separate the body from the frame?  Drop the
> fuel tank?  I would consider sending it to DWC (Rich W's business) 
or
> PJ Grady, etc, but I'm in the middle of my eagle premier swap, and 
it
> doesn't run yet.  I'm not sure who ships cars like that.  I know 
that
> Passport Transport won't unless the vehicle is driveable.  
> 
> If anyone could offer any other perspectives or thoughts, I'd
> appreciate it.
> 
> Matt
> #1604








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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 17:53:56 -0000
From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Shifting and sealing problems, M/T

The seal on the side of the transmission with the large O ring is 
holding up just fine... It's the seal on the other side and of course 
that little tiny seal 103049 that is a pain to replace are both 
leaking like a sieve. Thanks John and David for the information on 
this problem. I've just noticed today that it seems a little wet near 
the clutch master cylinder where it bolts on the inside of the car 
so, I'll get the seal kit for the C-MC just so I know it's done and 
doesn't fail on my 3000 mile drive. Thanks for the suggestion on 
changing the clutch fluid and trans fluid, I just did the brakes and 
flushed the system... but the clutch fluid hasn't been changed for a 
long time so I'll get to doing that as well. Thanks again guys! -----
Dani B. #5003



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Dan, There are 2 seals inside the clutch master that we make new. 
The one on
> the end of the plunger may not be sealing properly and allowing 
fluid to go
> back into the reservoir when the peddle is depressed. Normally it 
would show
> up in all gears when shifting and you wouldn't have full travel of 
fluid to
> the slave.
> The lip seal is a combination of seal and O Ring. Did you replace 
both. The
> seal I use is a double lip, lip seal.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On 
Behalf
> Of stainlessilusion
> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 9:20 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Shifting and sealing problems, M/T
> 
> 
> > Hey guys, another problem I'm hoping to get some
> > help on. When I am shifting, the gears will grind
> > only when shifting into 2nd or 5th. I'm not shifting
> > super fast but I am shifting fast; I don't think the
> > speed of shifting is my problem otherwise it would
> > grind in all gears.  It was also really difficult
> > to shift it into 5th on the highway at high speeds
> > I had to force it hard into gear. The only way for the
> > gears not to grind is to shift out of the gear, and
> > wait a few second before putting it into the next gear.
> > This has only started happening this year, I never had
> > this problem before. The clutch master cylinder and
> > slave cylinders have been replaced within the last 4
> > years and are fine; I haven't needed to add fluid in
> > years so you can rule those out as a problem. I also
> > could use a bit of help on the lip seal 104216,
> > on the right side of the transmission if you were
> > looking at it from the rear of the car forward. I've
> > replaced this seal twice within a year and this side
> > is still leaking, what am I doing wrong? Thanks for
> >all the help! ------Dani B. #5003







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 18:48:41 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Need advice on frame problem

So what's the trick to getting the tank out?  It seems like there's no
place to get a grip on the bottom.  I tried using a wooden stick to
pry it away from the fiberglass body from the top, but then I thought
I heard something creaking and I didn't want to break anything.  


thanks,

Matt
#1604

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "stainlessilusion" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Before spending all the money on shipping and work-just pull the tank 
> and see just how bad it really is. If you can clean up the fluid, 
> prep the area and spray it with POR-15 you'll be all set. Get rid of 
> the MC so it doesn't keep leaking all over the frame. -----Dani B. 
> #5003
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
> wrote:
> > I was in the process of replacing my cooling hoses from the front to
> > the rear of the car, and when I removed the fuel tank cover plate, I
> > noticed that the epoxy on the top of it was practically falling 
> off. 
> > Not only that, but so was the epoxy on the frame that was in that
> > section.  I was disgusted, because the frame at this place was fine
> > the last time I removed this cover plate a little over a year ago. 
> > Between then and now, I've driven the car about 10 miles.  
> > 
> > I looked around for the source.  It definitely smells like brake or
> > clutch fluid.  The clutch master cylinder looks pretty good (I can
> > still see the original plating intact and such), but the brake 
> master
> > cylinder looks like hell.  Completely rusted and actually, it 
> looked a
> > little damp.  I figure it must have leaked.  Checking the fluid 
> level,
> > the reservoir looks about half-full.  I know when I last bled the
> > brakes that I filled it more than that.  
> > 
> > My real problem here is that it seems like I won't be able to get at
> > all of the areas that the epoxy has melted off.  At least, not 
> without
> > pulling out the fuel tank.
> > 
> > What should I do here?  Separate the body from the frame?  Drop the
> > fuel tank?  I would consider sending it to DWC (Rich W's business) 
> or
> > PJ Grady, etc, but I'm in the middle of my eagle premier swap, and 
> it
> > doesn't run yet.  I'm not sure who ships cars like that.  I know 
> that
> > Passport Transport won't unless the vehicle is driveable.  
> > 
> > If anyone could offer any other perspectives or thoughts, I'd
> > appreciate it.
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604






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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 18:43:11 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Re: Garage Sign?

TOTALSIGNDESIGN (from ebay) I believe is the name you are looking for.
Stephen 
Vin 3601







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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 19:55:13 -0000
From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Need advice on frame problem

Disconnect all fuel lines and power sources, or just remove them and 
drain the tank.

Then you can remove the bottom plate (if not still off) and through 
the fuel pump access panel in the trunk, just push it out. It is held 
in quite well. 

But it will fall out if you drive it full of gas and no bottom cover 
plate. There's a certain Delorean owner on this list that knows this 
too well. :-)



-Joe O'Brien









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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 16:01:12 -0400
From: "Dom Diaz" <dom_diaz_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: update to my problem

You can ship a non-running car using intercity lines; 
http://www.intercitylines.com/ ( I THINK they charge $75.00 more????

Good luck!

Dom

>

[really long quote snipped by moderator]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


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