From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2678
Date: Monday, June 13, 2005 5:18 PM

There are 2 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Clutch woes
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. DMC (Texas) Open House Thank you to all
From: "Tony" <DMCPROTO1_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 20:13:05 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch woes

Rather unusual clutch fork retainer repair. I fixed mine by simply
rotating it 180 degrees and cutting a new slot (upper & lower
perimeters are mirror images of one another). There's a pic in #5939's
photo album. You probably snapped the original by trapping it BETWEEN
the pivot ball and the clutch fork. From the bent shape of what's left
this time, you did so again. Be careful wiggling the clutch fork until
the transmission is flush against the engine -- it's very easy
dislodge from the pivot ball, which not only traps the retainer but
can allow the throw out bearing to slip off (doesn't clip onto the
clutch fork but rather slips on, with a retaining pocket on one side
only!).

I'm not a big fan of turning flywheels. They are massive pieces of
metal, not usually subject to warpage (as brake rotors are). Also do
not usually get as hot, though the blue color of yours indicates
plenty of slippage. As you can see from the thickness of the clutch
disc, there isn't margin for a lot of material removal. If someone
gets too aggressive with a lathe, you may lose from the flywheel the
amount of wear usually associated with the disc.

I've also never seen a flywheel scored by clutch wheel rivets the way
brake rotors get scored when brake pads wear off. Usually the disc
starts slipping long before wearing down that far. There's really no
reason to turn a flywheel.

If your pressure plate was indeed bolted all the way down (it takes a
little torque to force it onto those studs), I'd suggest your flywheel
is now too thin (by virtue of turning). I believe the clutch disc
surface is supposed to be raised higher than the pressure plate
surface (where the studs are). Is it possible your machinist removed
that raised area? Can't tell from the pics whether it's still raised
or not.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Quick background: I replaced my clutch last fall. Replaced most
> everything - seals, bearings, disk, master/slave cylinders, line, etc.
> Flywheel was machined at Napa. The clip on the clutch fork was broken,
> so we engineered a fix. Everything worked fine until roughly two weeks
> ago, the clutch began engaging only at the very top of pedal travel.
> Like it was already worn out. Things went from working great to barely
> working immediately; there was no "slow degredation" - one day
> everything was perfect, the next it wasn't. I bled the clutch but
> nothing changed. I drove it two more weeks trying to delay the
> inevitable, but last Thursday the clutch began slipping so I parked
> the car. It's a daily driver, so there are ~5,000 miles on the new
> clutch. Also, this is the Centerforce complete system kit from Grady.
> 
> The transmission is now out. I took some pictures because I don't
> fully understand what the problem is.
> 
> Full flywheel pic: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/flywheel.jpg
> Close-up: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/flywheel_close.jpg
> 
> Looks like the area where the clutch disk goes is worn down quite a
> bit. How is this possible? I do not abuse the clutch - at all. Was it
> simply machined down too far? Or maybe it had been turned in the past,
> before I owned the car, and was on its last legs already? The disk
> area is *slightly* higher than the outside ring, but not by much. Do I
> need a new flywheel?
> 
> There is another potential issue: The little clip on the back of the
> clutch fork broke off. It was already damaged when I replaced the
> clutch last fall. We rigged up a fix (which held), but the "Y" part of
> the clip at the end gave up and went who-knows-where. Could this cause
> the clutch travel to change and the clutch disk to slip? Do I need a
> new clutch fork? Can I just buy that little clip?
> 
> Picture of fork: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/fork.jpg
> 
> The pressure plate and clutch disk have some interesting patterns on
> them. Not sure if that's normal:
> 
> Pressure plate: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/plate.jpg
> Closeup: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/plateclose.jpg
> 
> Clutch disk: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/disk.jpg
> Closeup: http://www.ryanwright.com/tmp/dclutch/diskclose.jpg
> 
> At this point I am unsure how to proceed, and could really use your
advice. :)
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> -Ryan







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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 20:12:33 -0000
From: "Tony" <DMCPROTO1_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: DMC (Texas) Open House Thank you to all

This being my 15th year in the DeLorean community was very special
for 
me. I was overwelmed with all the kind words from people I have known 
for years as well as people I have met for the first time. It is
truly 
my pleasure to share Proto 1 with all of you. I would just like to 
thank you all for the great weekend. I would also like to thank all 
the Concours competitors and judges for all their hard work in
keeping 
a great tradition going. Hope to see you all soon.

Tony Ierardi






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