From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 2684
Date: Thursday, June 16, 2005 2:19 PM

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Manifold Vacuum Question
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>

2. No Reserve DMC Ebay auction
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Re: Re: smoke? (Exhaust Manifold Gasket Fix)
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

4. RE: High Idle
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. RE: Brake Upgrades?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. RE: Manifold Vacuum Question
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. RE: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. RE: wiper motor problem...help pls
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

9. Re: Manifold Vacuum Question
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>

11. Photos from the show - check it out!
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

14. Teaser!
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>

16. Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help
From: Terry Frewen <terryfrewen_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Re: DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>

18. Canadian meet -Grand Bend
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

19. What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>

20. Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Delorean show grand ben
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

22. Re: DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 01:52:02 -0000
From: "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_titan.com>
Subject: Manifold Vacuum Question

I'm trying to learn a little about manifold vacuum on the B28 engine.  
I currently have a warm up regulator that doesn't have a vacuum 
enrichment on my engine.  If I add a CPR that has vacuum enrichment, 
where on the intake manifold should I hook the vacuum tubing going to 
the CPR?  Can I tee into the vacuum line that is taken off of the rear 
of the passenger's side intake runner (currently goes to distributor 
retard solenoid)?  What's the difference between ported vacuum and 
manifold vacuum?  Thanks, Rick D






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 01:38:09 -0000
From: "John Macias" <jdm5_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: No Reserve DMC Ebay auction

Ebay item number: 4556745981 Looks like a good project car. 
Anyone know the history on this one?

John
#7009






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 21:57:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: stefan diklich <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Re: Re: smoke? (Exhaust Manifold Gasket Fix)

Im going to take it to a mechanic so if they break it they can buy me a new one, lol

content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:The word you're looking for is "AGGRAVATING" fix. PRV manifolds are
held with hardware almost 50% smaller than traditional exhaust
manifolds. Are very easy to snap off. In fact, every fastener
throughout the whole exhaust system tends to rust solid (so much for
our "rust proof" little cars...). It's a colossal pain, but I
recommend methodically replacing them all with stainless. You only
have to do that once -- future removals will be easy.

I personally recommend splitting the nuts off and leaving the factory
studs in place. Risk of snapping them is too great. 7mm stainless nuts
are still available from Fastenal (I think John Hervey sells them
too). Use a die to clean the threads up.

Don't know about DeLo PRV's, but my replacement engine came with a
bolt holding the dipstick tube/exhaust manifold. I did replace it with
a long carbon stud/stainless nut & washer like all the others (simply
cut the head off an extra long 7mm).

There is one bright spot -- because the muffler is stainless, it won't
be rusted to the catalytic converter (guillotine clamp will probably
snap, but they're only $2 at any parts house. $6-10 for stainless.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, stefan diklich wrote:
> IF its the exhasut gasket blown is that an expensive fix or will the
exhaust manifld gaskets fit it? Is the car still driveable?
> 







To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links








__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 21:45:34 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: High Idle

Erik, Small vacuum leak, Throttle linkage adjustment or linkage hanging up
or not going all the way down, or fuel adjustment possibility.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of DMC Erik
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 7:50 AM
To: DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] High Idle


Hi,
I've put about 50 miles on my car since my restoration.  Once thing that is
bugging me is it idles around 1500 now.  Before the restore it didn't do
that.  I replaced the WUR while doing the restore because I thought that was
the cause of my lack of power when cold.  It seems to have fixed that issue.
so the car idles now at 1500RPM.  and sometimes even higher, but then goes
back down to 1500.  Any ideas?

Erik





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 21:42:00 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Brake Upgrades?

Willie,
The biggest problem over here is insurance. I can come up with it, have the
calipers spacers made and use vented rotors. The problem is insurance.
Believe me, they rule the world along with the CC companies.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Home of the Delorean Brake Specialist
We do it your way.



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of vtdmc
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 8:43 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Brake Upgrades?



Has anyone looked into the possibilty of upgrading the brakes?  I have
tried to find a brembo or performance friction kit that would work,
but haven't found anything.  Has anyone else had any luck?

Thanks
Willie
Vin 5043






To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Yahoo! Groups Links











________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 21:51:00 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Manifold Vacuum Question

Rick, How to hook it up is on my web site under engine, #2 page.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/engine-2.html





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Rick
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 7:52 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Manifold Vacuum Question


I'm trying to learn a little about manifold vacuum on the B28 engine.
I currently have a warm up regulator that doesn't have a vacuum
enrichment on my engine.  If I add a CPR that has vacuum enrichment,
where on the intake manifold should I hook the vacuum tubing going to
the CPR?  Can I tee into the vacuum line that is taken off of the rear
of the passenger's side intake runner (currently goes to distributor
retard solenoid)?  What's the difference between ported vacuum and
manifold vacuum?  Thanks, Rick D





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 21:57:09 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help

Terence, Does it run and if so how well. If the fuel system is varnished out
from sitting, then figure about a $1,000.00 to restore all that. With out
taking things apart, some of the aluminum coolant ports could be
deteriorated. Shocks, suspension, electrical would all normally need to be
updated and could get on up there in cost. Is there any rust.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Terence M. Frewen
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 2:43 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] getting ready to buy a Delorean need help


I am getting ready to make an offer on a Delorean. It has been stored
for several years and has less than 9,900 miles.  Body is great
interior is Good.  Seller is asking $14,000  Is that a good buy?  My
wife says it's too much.  What does everyone else think?  Thank you
for the input and I hope to post many more messages as my new Delorean
ownership begins.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 22:01:04 -0500
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: wiper motor problem...help pls

Craig, No it doesn't seam unusual that people buy a lot of parts that the
car doesn't need. The 25+ year old motor has grease in it that has dried.
The battery could be low, the motor is old but the bearings could just be
dry and need lubricating or could just be in a bind.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com





-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com [mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of mrvic20
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 3:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] wiper motor problem...help pls


HI

Thanks for the resposes to my wiper problem...i did not mention in my
earlier
post that the wipers were working on both speeds but v slow.  too slow
for the
wipers to move when on the screen when they were pulled away from the
glass
they worked but slow.  I assumed the motor was burnt out/damaged so
bought a dmch
one.  I now get the feeling that this MIGHT not be needed.  Please
help...does this sound familiar...what should i do?

Any help appreciated

Craig Vin 6723




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 02:57:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Manifold Vacuum Question

I'm guessing you have a Series 004? (Last 3 digits stamped into the
housing, not cast). Volvo used a lot of those in the late 70's. They
do indeed lack full throttle enrichment, but otherwise operate over
nearly the same parameters as Series 066. Take a little bit longer to
warm up (about 150 degrees F versus 110), but ultimately yield the
same counter pressure. In fact all PRV CPR's ultimately produce 49-53
PSI, so all are interchangeable (Series 021 is a little wierd, but was
only used 1 year in high altitude states like Colorado).

The full throttle enrichment mechanism on a Series 066 is totally
different from all other CPR's. Is much more complicated. Also shuts
off after the engine warms up (via a thermactor valve in the vacuum
line). To plumb one of those properly you need not only the thermactor
valve -- not all Y pipes have a bung for one -- but a delay valve as
well. Full manifold vacuum is routed through the thermactor valve to a
tee that splits vacuum to both sides of the CPR (one of which has a
delay valve inline).

Series 018, 029, and 038 all have much simpler full throttle
enrichment. Full vacuum simply runs from the manifold straight to a
barb on the top.

K Jetronic PRV's do have ported vacuum barbs under the throttle
plates. You wouldn't want to use them for the CPR, but could run a
line straight to the ignition distributor if you wanted to get rid of
the cutoff solenoid (that's how Volvo did it, albeit with some unusual
Rube Goldbergness prior to 1980 -- emissions. After 1980 it's just a
single line straight to the distributor). If you've got both a Series
004 CPR and a vacuum cutoff solenoid on the ignition distributor, your
engine must be 1979 (or at least it's configured that way). Of course
1979 is B27, not B28....

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rick" <rdevaux_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> I'm trying to learn a little about manifold vacuum on the B28 engine.  
> I currently have a warm up regulator that doesn't have a vacuum 
> enrichment on my engine.  If I add a CPR that has vacuum enrichment, 
> where on the intake manifold should I hook the vacuum tubing going to 
> the CPR?  Can I tee into the vacuum line that is taken off of the rear 
> of the passenger's side intake runner (currently goes to distributor 
> retard solenoid)?  What's the difference between ported vacuum and 
> manifold vacuum?  Thanks, Rick D







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 04:13:17 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_verizon.net>
Subject: Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help

You will get alot of answers but the bottom line is your ability to 
fix things and the condition of the important parts of the car. 
Start with the frame and make sure there is no or little rust. ALso 
look at the front extension to see its condition. If the owner will 
let you drive it listen to the engine after it warms up. It should 
idle pretty smooth after 3-4 minutes. 

If you drive it see how the transmision feels. You dont realize 
until you restore/repair a car how many parts ther are too possibly 
replace. 3 years later and I still have parts boxes arriving on my 
porch. When I help other potential owners I can usually tell in the 
first few minutes how the car is taken care of. Look at things like 
the seat belt bolts and other metal parts of the car. Do they look 
worn? Rust? I have helped two loal onwers bring thericars back to 
good condition and they are both well over $5k in repairs so make 
sure you have money put aside for repairs/saftey improvements.

When you look at the engine compartment does everything look clean 
or worn out? Delorean engines can look pretty nasty if they are not 
well maintained. However, none of this can not reveal any hidden 
problems. A ten minute test drive should reveal alot about the 
health of the car....how does it idle, accelerate, brake and shift.

My best advice is to ask a local owner in your area to come look at 
the car. It could save you from making a big mistake or give you the 
confidence to make the right decison...Just post your location and 
usually someone can inspect the car for you. My fee is usually a 
Wendy's frostee :-)

So its hard to give you the answerr but it does seem prices are 
going up and I have seen some bad cars sell for $10k. So the right 
price is a moving target based on your abilities, tools ,list of 
repairs and most importantly the tolerance of your wife to let you 
spend the next year or so holed up in your garage ....

Good luck
Mike C
2109






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 01:03:05 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Photos from the show - check it out!

Ok friends, you have been asking for them so here are a few photos.
They are all pretty high-res so wind up your modems.

Simply go to my website,

http://dfwdmc.com/
Click on "PHOTO GALLERY" and then choose the last option,
"06-11-05 : DMC Open House - Houston 2005" and click it.
...and hey, feel free to browse the other pictures too.

- Videobob






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 21:01:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeremiah Montee <angelito03299_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help

Well Terence,

It depends on how much tangible evidence there is to
the car.  Are there receipts for work done?  Is there
any kind of documentation or pictures of work done or
upkeep kept up?  Has it been driven AT ALL for the
last couple of years or just stored ?  If it was
stored the whole time, you could be looking at forking
out some good money (anywhere from $500 - $5000) to
get things overhauled - fuel system, eletrical system,
brakes, seals, O-rings, etc.  If this car sat, things
may have dried up to the point of being brittle, than
when the car gets started and things begin to move
again, fluids may soak these seals and they may not
hold...oil, coolant, possibly transmission seals, etc.
 The electrical system would need to be attended to,
primarily the fuses, relays, and the cooling fan
relay.  All of this could hit you before you even get
to drive it.

Then again, you may get a great little car.  May just
need to flush the stagnant (if any was left in the
tank) fuel out of the car, replace the fuses and -
boom - daily driver.  It's just really hard to say
"It'll be path A or path B" on something like this.  I
guess it also depends on what you're going to use this
car for - daily driver or Sunday drive car?  If daily
- get one that's been driven - not stored.  If weekend
car, have a fun time bringing it back up to speed and
getting to learn alot about a mysterious little car
(at least to the general public that is).

I would look for any signs that shows the car has been
kept up, and I'm not talking receipts from 1988.  I'm
talking pictures and specifically - DeLorean vendor
invoices/receipts showing parts bought within at least
the last 5 years.  If he has DeLorean vendor receipts,
call that particular vendor(s), have the VIN # ready,
and ask them about it.  They may be able to provide
you information that will make or break (and save your
butt) your decision on that particular car.

Or you may be wanting a restoration project to enjoy
at your own pace.  Heh, that's what I had.  Thought I
had a daily driver - wrong.  That's the last time I
take people's word - EVER.  Paid 10k for the car,
maybe another 12-18k in parts/misc items/tools/etc (I
stopped counting after 12k; it started to get
depressing) to get it to where I could drive it and
enjoy it.  I wanted a daily; I got a restoration.  In
retrospect, that was the best way it could have gone. 
I got the car I want, made some great lifelong friends
(fellow DMC owners), and know more about my car than
anyone else in the state of Florida (draw a line of
delination up to DMC-Florida). Ok...MY side of that
line I know more ;).

Best of luck on your decision - hope to see you living
the dream soon!  If anything is on the Internet about
it, give the info to us - we may be able to help you.

Jeremiah
#3299


--- "Terence M. Frewen" <terryfrewen_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:

> I am getting ready to make an offer on a
Delorean....





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 09:53:22 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded

Hey.
They are great pics! Just wondering what they said about the molds? Do they ever plan on making the bodies again?
 
Also, regarding the car with the engine bay fire and the 'trashed' car. Are DMCH planning to restore them? Would be amazing to see the before and after pics
 
Thanks!
Thomas Mc Auley
Vin #4087

Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
Hello,

My DMCH 2005 Open House Pics have been uploaded and
can now be viewed at

http://fuh-q.org/~dmchoh/?album=christopher_mack

If anyone has any questions regarding the pictures
please
feel free to email me

Thanks

Chris
#6453





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 21:32:04 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Teaser!

Ok everyone, here is a little teaser from the DVD I am working on from the 
show...
Check it out: http://www.dfwdmc.com/media/Proto1_teaser.wmv

This is a short video that will appear on the DVD along with in depth 
interviews
and coverage of the whole event including most of the speakers, tours and 
tech sessions.
Most of this footage is really just a big infomercial for DMCH however I 
think you will find
it to be very interesting and fascinating if you have never been to the 
warehouse
or if you missed most of the tours.
This is definatelty a video you want in your collection!

Right now I am trying to see if I can fit it all on one disc, but it looks 
like I might
not be able too.

My options are:

$10 DVD with less information and video at higher quality.
$10 DVD wth more information and video at lesser quality.
$20 2-DVD set with all coverage and video at highest quality.
(these prices would include shipping)
Give me some feedback as to which you guys would rather pay and get
for your money.
- VB







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 00:44:41 -0700
From: Ryan Wright <ryanpwright_at_dml_gmail.com>
Subject: Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help

We need a lot more info to determine if that's a good buy. What's the vin #?

The body is almost always great. Interior almost always good. Miles
almost always low. That doesn't guarantee much in the world of
DeLorean ownership.

Check for frame rust. If the frame is rusty, you're in for a world of
pain. I wouldn't touch a rusty frame DeLorean with a 10 foot pole.
You're looking at countless hours and sums of money to fix something
like that. Has the car been updated in any way? If most of it is
stock, plan on spending a minimum of the following to make it
reliable:

-- If you have your own garage, stocked with tools, and do your own
work, ~$3,000-5,000.
-- If you pay one of our vendors to do it, ~$5,000 - ~$10,000.
-- Don't pay your local auto shop to do anything. It's not really an
option unless you can find someone who is honest and has DeLorean
experience.

I bought a nice, one owner DeLorean in excellent condition last year.
Here is a short list of some of the things I've replaced to make it
reliable:

- New hood struts (~$45)
- New louvre struts (~$45)
- New driver's side door switches (~$5)
- New forward interior light (~$35)
- New power antenna (~$70)
- New power mirror switch (~$60)
- New fuel accumulator (~$110)
- New fuel tank baffle system (~$65)
- New radiator hoses throughout entire car (~$125)
- New A/C pressure switch, new valves at compressor, A/C recharged
(~$250, much of it labor)
- New Michelin Pilot XGT tires (~$450)
- Misc stuff bought locally the first month of ownership (~$150)
- New three core brass radiator with metal fittings (~$280)
- New plugs, wires, cap & rotor (June 2004) (~$150)
- New air filter (June 2004) (~$15)
- New louver latch point (metal "U" piece on engine cover) (~$10)
- New air intake hose (~$35)
- New brake pads, cleaned & flushed brake system (~$50; I already had
brake pads)
- Replaced both door lock solenoids with liner actuators ($100)
- Rebuilt door lock controller: New relays, replaced resistors &
transistors for lower standby current (~$30)
- Replaced otterstat with lower temperature unit (on _at_dml_ 196F, off _at_dml_
185F; original is on _at_dml_ 207F, off _at_dml_ 196F)
- Recovered headliner (front "T" section & rear) (~$10)
- Rewired A/C panel lights to only come on with headlights ($0)
- Cleaned & soldered all joints on driver's side taillight board ($0)
- Cleaned & soldered all joints on passenger's side taillight board ($0)
- Cleaned, lubed & repaired mode switch ($0)
- Properly glued rear view mirror back on ($0)
- Added manual bleeder to upper radiator bleed hose (~$15)
- Added auto bleeder to rear coolant bleed lines (~$25)
- General leather maintenance & cleanings (~$10)
- Replaced trailing arm bolts with Toby Tabs (~$80)
- New clutch master cylinder (~$1,000 total for all clutch stuff, below)
- New clutch slave cylinder
- New stainless braided clutch line
- New clutch system: Clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing,
throwout bearing & clutch fork grease seal
	& turned/machined flywheel down
- New rear main seal
- New transmission front seal (bellhousing seal)
- New transmission front housing gasket, o-ring, and roll pin
- New clutch fork boot
- New transmission gear oil (Valvoline SynPower 75w-90)
- New driver's side carpet (floor, DMCH) ($160)
- New fuel filter ($18)
- New heater control valve & all new rubber heater lines in the rear (~$80)
- New belts ($20)
- Replaced two small water pump hoses ($20)
- Replaced radiator fans with John Hervey's pancake fans (~$350)
- Added relay for headlight switch to prevent meltdowns ($10)
- New floor mats (DMCH) ($140)
- Rebuild mode switch again, this time with new parts (DMCH rebuild kit) ($40)
- New door seals (both inner & outer seals replaced) (~$400)
- New suspension (DMCH Eibach springs/shocks kit) (~$700)

I'm afraid to add it all up. And I did 99% of the labor myself; only
paid for some A/C work and had some awesome club members help me on
the suspension. Oh, and tons and tons of great advice from the great
people on this list and the DMCForum list. If you don't want to do
your own work on the car, double or triple most of the prices above.

And remember, I bought a nice car that had been decently taken care
of. The vast majority of this stuff just had to be replaced due to
age. I mean, it's 24 years old. It's going to fail. You start driving
that car even a few times a week, and all that original stuff will
start failing left and right. Thankfully my water pump & my power
window motors - two decently expensive items - had already been
replaced by the previous owner. I still need to spend $250+ on a new
alternator one of these days, and various other misc things; not to
mention the ~$250 I'll have spent by the end of this week on front end
bushings, some clutch linkage parts, and a few other needed items.

I'm not trying to scare you away. Just want to make sure you're
prepared for this. If everything on the car is original, you're in for
some significant near term expenses. Unless you want to store it in a
garage and just look at it like the current owner, then you don't have
to spend anything. ;-)

Now the good news is, I've been driving my car every single day since
the day I bought it, and the outflow of cash has dropped significantly
as I get further into ownership. Most of this stuff is good for
another 10 - 20 years now that I've replaced it. So it's not like
you'll be spending yourself silly for the rest of your life. But at
first, you'll probably need to. Then as more and more parts on the car
are replaced with new, things will start to settle down.

So, the price. My opinion. If the car is all original, $14k is
reasonable. I'd offer him $12k and negotiate from there assuming
you're prepared for many of the expenses I listed above. If most of
this stuff has been updated and you don't have to do anything to it
other than a bit of routine maintenance here and there, then it's
worth $18k-$22k. Again, this is my opinion, others will tell you
differently.

-Ryan

On 6/15/05, Terence M. Frewen <terryfrewen_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> I am getting ready to make an offer on a Delorean. It has been stored
> for several years and has less than 9,900 miles.  Body is great
> interior is Good.  Seller is asking $14,000  Is that a good buy?  My
> wife says it's too much.  What does everyone else think?  Thank you
> for the input and I hope to post many more messages as my new Delorean
> ownership begins.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 07:43:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Terry Frewen <terryfrewen_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help

Wow- that is a ton of stuff.  The seller is my wifes boss.  He knows nothing about a car, except that you turn the key and put gas in it.  A local auto shop has pulled it out of storage and got it up and running every time he got it out.  I doubt any upgrades have been done, other than the standard maintenance the local auto shop does.  Tune up, fluid changes, etc.   I'll try to get it for 10k. I can repair just about anything that needs done on the car, expect ac, & tranny.  (I Let the pros do that stuff)
 
Thanks for the input. 
 
Terry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 11:10:33 -0500
From: "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded

I am betting that when they take in a car like that,
all they are interested in is the VIN plate and title.
With that, they can build a new car and reassign it as the old one.
- VB

>From: Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
>Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [DML] DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded
>Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 09:53:22 +0100 (BST)
>
>Hey.
>They are great pics! Just wondering what they said about the molds? Do they 
>ever plan on making the bodies again?
>
>Also, regarding the car with the engine bay fire and the 'trashed' car. Are 
>DMCH planning to restore them? Would be amazing to see the before and after 
>pics
>
>Thanks!
>Thomas Mc Auley
>Vin #4087
>
>Christopher Mack <christopher_mack_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
>Hello,
>
>My DMCH 2005 Open House Pics have been uploaded and
>can now be viewed at
>
>http://fuh-q.org/~dmchoh/?album=christopher_mack
>
>If anyone has any questions regarding the pictures
>please
>feel free to email me
>
>Thanks
>
>Chris
>#6453




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 11:52:18 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Canadian meet -Grand Bend


The weekend should be great in Grand Bend! www.grandbend.ca  There should be a good turnout of cars! Next time I'll do a registration for the count! We will have sunny weather - I've been told by someone high up!

The meeting spot is the Oakwood Inn on # 21 about 1/4 mile north of the only traffic light in town - try the front desk or my room www.oakwoodinnresort.com 

Saturday: leave the Oakwood Inn 11:15 AM & cruise to Bayfield, Ontario, (north on # 21 about 20 minutes) & stay there for lunch around 12:30 PM _at_dml_ Ritz Restaurant - late arrivals - meet us there.........then cruise back to the Bend and the BEACH show and shine!

Organizing this event is like getting ready for a breach birth --- tons to do for 1 person, yet, an exciting time! 

Ken, I envy you for your patience, and tremendous organizational skills.

Drive safely!

Marv. Stein
# 17077
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com 
cell: 519 - 852 - 1667
res: 519 - 438 - 7174
  ----------

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.7.3/15 - Release Date: 6/14/2005


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 17:42:40 -0000
From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet_at_dml_fmglobal.com>
Subject: What kind of lubricant should be used on door latches?

Do I use grease for door and compartment latches?  I tried WD-40, but 
it disappears too quickly, leaving the mechanism a bit dry.

Thanks,

Paul
Vin 10944







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 18:57:59 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: getting ready to buy a Delorean need help

Where I'm from we have an old saying, "never buy a car from a 
relative, it leads to family feuds". I would say buying a car from 
someone like your wife's boss could be trouble.

As to the car - you're getting good input. Why not let the "boss" get 
it ready for driving then look to buy? My guess is - he is trying to 
avoid that cost. Hey, I'm always suspicious.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Terry Frewen <terryfrewen_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Wow- that is a ton of stuff.  The seller is my wifes boss.  He knows 
nothing about a car, except that you turn the key and put gas in it.  
A local auto shop has pulled it out of storage and got it up and 
running every time he got it out.  I doubt any upgrades have been 
done, other than the standard maintenance the local auto shop does.  
Tune up, fluid changes, etc.   I'll try to get it for 10k. I can 
repair just about anything that needs done on the car, expect ac, & 
tranny.  (I Let the pros do that stuff)
>  
> Thanks for the input. 
>  
> Terry
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 18:56:12 -0000
From: "stefandmc" <stefandmc_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Delorean show grand ben

I know this is short notice but im going up to the grand ben delorean 
show for saturday only, i was wondering if anyone is coming up 
throught the detroit windsor border crossing, if so, and someone wants 
to give me a ride, i can meet them in windsor and car pool from there, 
otherwise ill have to drive by myself. It would be cool if the ride 
was in the delorena too, lol, Mine isnt roadworthy yet. ANyway let me 
know, if you need to call go for it. (519) 736-6113, ask for stefan
Thanks guys







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 19:01:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DMCH 2005 open house pics uploaded

Strickly speaking, that is a Federal offense. Transfering the title
(vin plate) from one frame (or car) to another is a big no-no. Because
the vin tags are on the body you could reframe the car and repair the
body. Since there is no record of the frame #'s or engine #'s I guess
you could swap them and that would be OK. IMHO legaly the car is the
vin tag and the vin tag is on the fiberglass body (and on the dash
pad). My guess is that it was an insurance total and they left the car
there for the storage. It was cheaper for the insurance co. to do that
than pay to remove it and junk it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Videobob Moseley" <videobob_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I am betting that when they take in a car like that,
> all they are interested in is the VIN plate and title.
> With that, they can build a new car and reassign it as the old one.
> -






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe_at_dml_yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------